Hawk 250 Valve Lash Adjustment - Tao Tao TBR7 Honda CG
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2019
- How to adjust the valve clearance on the Honda CG clone engines. In this case, I will be adjusting the valves on my 2019 RPS Hawk 250. This same adjustment applies to all of the Chinese clone CG engines. You will need a good set of feeler gauges and a 10mm wrench to complete this project.
You can get a good set of feeler gauges here amzn.to/2ZH3CtE (Paid Link)
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Whenever I've adjusted valves on all the Honda's I work on, I tighten the adjuster (w/ feeler gauge in) until I cannot move the feeler gauge. Then tighten the jamb nut. When you tighten this jamb nut, it increases clearance. That way the total clearance is your feeler gauge. Also be sure not to have your feeler gauges in at an angle that will be contacting the head. This can introduce drag and make you believe it is where it needs to be, when really it's loose.
I did .002 on the intake and .003 on the exhaust now it runs and starts up a lot easier runs so much better now !! Thank you great video very helpful 👍😎🤘
That was excellent, thank you. I now feel I have the confidence to do this myself.
This was a very informative video. You explained everything clearly and the picture quality was great
I’ve been doing this type of tinkering since I was 11 years old on my 1980 my Honda XR80. I’m 55 now and working on my Hawk brings back memories…I guess that’s why I bought mine. They are definitely a mechanics bike or will make you one.
This video was way better than the rest. Very detailed. Thanks
Thanks man! I just ordered the Hawk 250 and I've heard you have to adjust the valves right away and I've never adjusted valves so this was an excellent video.
I learned this while tuning up standby home generators once a year we would adjust the valves. It's really easy even for someone who has never opened anything up on an engine. Good video bud
This video just saved my valves. Can't say the same about any other channel. Thanks a million!
Great video. I watched another youtuber do the same thing and he did not explain anything. Thank you for going into detail.
Same, this video shows everything! Great job.
This is very good. Helped me a lot 👍😊
Lol best lay of the wrenches and go do some real life courses
good man! only taken half a day. but finally found a decent video with exactly whats needed. This I hope will cure the blow back through the carb aswell.
It won't you will need to put on a better carburetor. Those are set way way to lean which is usually what causes the pop back through the carb. It looks like Jack of all trades has already done that. It makes them run so much better and also run much cooler
Hands down best hawk valve adjustment video on TH-cam!
you do an amazing job explaining things! Thank you for these videos!
great video, very clear and shows exactly what we need. Looking to get one of these bikes soon
Dude I can't thank you enough for this video. You nailed every step from finding top dead center to that sensation of the feeler gauges - it does slightly drag. My new 2024 Hawk has been plagued by starting and idling problems - it refused to start for the first five days, and since then has not maintained an idle. This shouldn't happen with a brand new bike, and I was in denial about the need for any major work - its a new F'ing bike!! But shout out to @appalacianmoto for first suggesting the valve lash. And after I said, "What the hell is a valve lash?" and after I resisted any videos that started with, "Remove the gas tank," I came across your video which laid it all out in detail. The only problem I came across was the entire rocker arm assembly was SO tight that, after loosening the lock down nut, the adjusting screws would not turn by hand. I had to use a small adjustable wrench to loosen them, until they finally gave way. And, the valve clearance was non-existent. So that took a while to get it right - and not damage the rocker arms. I have to believe that at the RPS Hawk factory they just tighten everything down so the bike can survive the trip across the Pacific. So I haven't started the bike up yet - I've got the fuel tank off while I do the whole improvement tour: new gas gauge float; the valve adjustment; a new digital speedo and tach; and a new battery - the factory battery is horrible. So thanks again - you're on my Christmas list.
The best video I've found on this - thank you!
Great video, clear, to the point and nice angles. Thank you for this. It was informative and gave me confidence to go after this myself.
Thank you I just ordered my hawk dlx and you just got a sub.
Cool. Hopefully you enjoy it. I've never ridden a DLX
Thanks this really helped love the video was very detailed perfect 🙂
This video was great💥😍🇩🇰. Im adjusting my Lifan 250 these days. Your video help me a lot. Thanks from Denmark
Jeg elsker deg
@@TheAsheybabe89 😂🇩🇰 you did vel🇩🇰
@@TheAsheybabe89 but “ deg “ is Norwegian 🇳🇴. On Danish it’s “ dig “.
@@hamborg2 Que bueno!
Super helpful, just what I needed
Nice work - you should be a teacher. This week my new Hawk's gas tank is coming off for a higher quality gas gauge float install; a digital speedometer & tach install; and a valve adjustment. My bike arrived put together with 3 miles on it and doesn't want to idle, either.
Great video man really helped me out alot
Allso. When you turn the motor, and feel like the kompression is anoing for staying right at the T mark, just remove the sparking plugs. Then you can just turn, and stop very akkuratly 👍
Do u have more than one plug?
@@dab-pre-ss-ionaustin1986 ist a 250 ccm ingine. 2 cylinders, 2 sparks.
@@hamborg2 not my hawk i only have one cylinder one spark plug on my 250.
So same exact steps for the tbr7? Badass video btw explained and very detailed! Thank you!
Thank you
Yes should be identical for the TBR7
You the man I subscribed 🤘
Wow what a difference that made in my bike! It runs so much stronger now! Thanks for the instruction. Next is to adjust the carb! (running right now as it should regarding the choke. Just need to get rid of the hesitation between revs.)
Great video buddy thanks!
Great video my brother. Yup adjust the valve's. Different carb or re jet the stock one. 17 tooth front sprocket. Are what everyone should do right away on those chonda bikes
Great video.... great explanation
Excellent video! Thanks
Thanks for the video. Very informative
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
I adjusted the valves on my hawk with the thinnest filler gage i had at 500 miles and checked them again at 3600ish miles and are about the same specks... I do the oil changes around 6 to 800 miles just because one quart of oil is cheap
They take 1.4 litres of oil mate a quart isnt enough (just under a litre)
What happens if you crank the engine clockwise while trying to find tdc?
Good video, did you have to rotate the motor back to its original coordinates after the valves were adjusted? Or did you leave it lined up at the “T”?
never adjusted valves without takin tank off.. good to know I can get to the tappets without doing all the extra work.
Good tips and checks.
just fyi for anyone when locking down leave feeler gage in and I knows it good nice video
Hi what are the head bold torqe specs on thet bike?
Very helpful video not sure if it’s me but my 2021 hawk cylinder looks completely different and no it’s not a dlx
could you also remove spark plug and using your thumb feel for compression stroke at TDC?
Yes
No need to check timing. Turn engine over till one valve is opening. Adjust other valve. Turn over engine till this valve opens. Adjust other valve. Done
say wut
Exactly, when one valve is open, the other has to be in its closed state
I noticed when you took the big screw off by the hawk name there wasn’t any oil coming out, I had oil dripping for a while out of my bike and saw it coming from the crankshaft so I unscrewed it and a bunch of oil spilled out this is because of a breach crankshaft seal right?
Excellent Video. My thanks to you. Have a question for you. My Hawk 250 EFI DLX. 2020. Factory Booklet shows the valve clearance to be .005 & .007 Yet your suggestion is for .002-.003 & .004-.005 Clearance Settings. Is the Factory Booklet Wrong by chance. ?? Thank you so much for your help with this. I only want to make certain before I adjust the clearance.
Make sure the factory book isn't metric vs sae, which is what I'm referencing
@@JackofAllMasterofNone you are correct. just checked the factory book again. shows valve lash as 0.05 & 0.07mm So your measurements are correct. Thank you so much.
This video was extremely helpful and very much appreciated! How tight should I tighten the valve cover and valve lock nuts?
Don't know the exact spec. Just tight, but not crazy
@@JackofAllMasterofNone did you have to turn the engine back over after the valves were adjusted?
Hey how’s it going thanks for the info I’m just curious because it seems like everyone does this by default but I have a hawk 250 dlx the efi version same engine I got about almost 1000 miles on mine now have done a few oil changes already never ran it with the shipping oil changed that out right away but anyway I have basic mechanical skills and was just wondering because mine runs and idols fine with no funny noises from the engine do I even need to bother doing this? Thank you
I was wondering the same thing …
Would the same specs be used for the valve adjustment on the DLX model?
Yes
It’s importent to turn the motor only counter clockwise, because only then you reach the Top Dead Center position. That’s because of the natural slack on the camper chain. And offcorce you don’t have to turn the starter motor around😊
I took my plug out and set the valve lashes and put everything back together and now the bike won't fire up. Is there something I need to try?
If you don't want them to move when you tighten the lock nuts it's as simple as putting a wrench on it while you tighten the nut
Would this be something I do? Straight from box can't get hawk to start
This and a new carburetor yes
hi. just a tip from an petrolhead... when you check valve clearance next time, just bend the tip of the feeler gauge. check the clearance -always- in a right angle to the contact plate / surface without touching anything else...(you can see in the video that you get more space than measured) when you tighten the bolt with an wrench, conter it with an other wrech or pliers... damn i would buy one just for the fun. here in germany you're not alowed to run them. they violate emission standards and the have no abs, so you get no admission to operate them in traffic... but we will save the world :)))))) greetings
Fuck emissions run ya one anyways black out your helmet n bike and dodge vehicles as needed keep to the dirt and mud
I would remove the spark plug to make it easier to turn the engine over. Also, with he plug a installed, it sometimes might be harder to get the marks right on due to compression. Also, I would check the clearances before loosening the rocker arm adjusted lock nuts. Then you know how far off the clearances are, and maybe one or both valves don't need adjusting.
So I believe I'm at top dead center piston is up and I see the t with a line but no movement in valves still
How will u know if they need to be adjusted? How often should you adjust them?
the schedule is in the manual. Do valve check right out of the box, then every 200 miles for the first 800 miles. Then follow schedule in manual.
What happens if the valve clearance is really off either tight or loose? What will happen
Poor performance usually from partially stuck open valves. Or if too loose there will be a lot of valve train noise.
I just bought this exact bike and I got idle issues like no tomorrow...this video is gonna save me from adjusting my idle screw at redlights ....thanx man...is it worth it to change out the jet in the carb to gain some hp ...just curious
My bike came stock with an 88 Main jet and I immediately went to a 110 and removed the exhaust baffle, previously couldn't even use full throttle.
Your jetting is off…that’s why your idle is unstable.
Nice video men, where do you buy a hawk 250 2019 ??
I bought mine from q9powersports.com
The Hawk 250 is a great bargain. My Hawk has run flawlessly and has only needed the regular Hawk 250 mods. I do agree the Brozz is slightly better made and the TT250 is the best. But they are all still not as good as a Japanese bike.
What kind of oil/weight does these bikes use?
I use Shell Rotella T4 15w40. Best oil for this engine IMO
I just got a used Hawk 250 that only has 50 miles on it from a buddy of mine it runs good once it's warmed up it just has trouble idling until it's very hot.
By the sounds of it this just might be the issue it only has 75 miles on it right now but I'm going to do an oil change and check the valves the only question I have is once you get the valve itself adjusted how tight are you setting the nut that holds the valve stopper or whatever you want to call it in place do you give it a good bit of torque or is it just a little more than snug
It has the Mikuni carb on it as well everything else was stock so this weekend I will more than likely do the valves it seems surprisingly easy
so were does my line it up at?? the T?
Line just to the right of the T
Would this be the reason it won't run past 40mph amd has a funny idle?
Adjusted valves. Didn't work.
Might be a vacuum leak or carb problem.
None of my valves have any slack in them at any point open or closed and the adjusters don't spin by hand
How long does it take to break in this motor? I will be coming back to this video soon, got my tbr7 today. Ayyyy
How’s it treating you
@@domenicalaimo7618 didnt get to do a whole lot of riding, but its been good to me. Lookin to find some trails around town
Will this make my hawk Idol? I have a brand new hawk and it won’t idol at all ????
I just fot a brand new hawk. You need to adjust the idle screw first on you carb. Mine still has trouble idling when i first start it. From my knowledge this valve adjustment should help the idle issue but the carb needs to be straight first
If you buy a hawk new the first thing you should do is change the carburetor and jetting
I keep my TBR7 at half choke all the time, runs better this way, actually runs very well. Still need to play with the throttle a bit when doing a cold start up though. Stock carburetor.
@@prairiegold6870 your jetting is way off. You need bigger jets. Your carb is too lean. Buy the carb off Amazon and some jets. You have to also adjust fuel/air mixture. You may temporarily benefit from turning mixture screw in until it idles without choke
Is it possible to get 70mph with mods on the Chinese duel sport bikes?
Not really. You may be able to touch 70, but it will be temporary
@@JackofAllMasterofNone ive seen 65 on a flat but it wasn't modified . bigger carb and straight pipe muffler no cat should do 70 . motor breathing better more power
@@adamlong54 Good luck.
I have the same hawk 250 and I got top speed up to 68 mph. Pretty dam fast for my hawk and that's what a mikuni carburetor rejetted with a 110 and a 17th sprocket and 45 rear.
@@davidespinosa4367 where did you get your new jets from? did you use a Mikuni 30 carb? links for the new jet? thanks
Sorry to sound dumb but what exactly do you accomplish by doing this.
Out of spec valve clearance can cause poor performance at the minimum and engine failure at the worst.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone gotcha so do they slowly work there way out of spec or did it come like that? I'm asking because I'm getting a brozz 250 soon and want to know how to make it last the longest possible and thanks for the video and comment
@@landenwest8114 Usually they come too tight. And yes they slowly work themselves out of spec.
Haven't seen this answer so. If set too tight valves will burn. Burnt valve will not seal. First indication is putt sound in exhaust. 2nd is severe power loss. Finally it won't start. No compression. Solution is valve job.
If you are handy do full head removal. Mill the head, port the exhaust and buy a good exhaust system. Butten back together observing torque settings. Rejet carburater. Presto, 70 mph. Run hi-test gas.
Thanks, big help!
Remove spark plug step#1...will make timing much easier. Good vid though!
l fell that i am not getting full power .thank you
ahhh so .05 not .005..... that explains a lot thanks bud
You’ll most likely find the Ali head and so on expands giving you bigger clearances once hot.....
It's a pushrod engine, you don't need the timing marks, just move it till both valves aren't depressed at all, hell if you wanted you can just do one valve at a time, fully depressed exhaust gap the intake, fully depress intake gap the exhaust
Exactly
I have a hawk dlx it a 2020 it git 1900 miles on it spit Flutters to it git warm up then it runs fine I can here some ticking from the top of the Engine My Friend told me that was what Wes making it’s Splitter where is cold
Should have fired it up at the end. I just did mine at 176mi with .005 on both. WAY too much clatter. Doing it again tomorrow at .003 in/.004ex.
Manual says .05mm for both (.002") which is too tight.
I heard .005 for exaust and .004 for intake
I have always driven fords so no problem 👍🤣👍
Not exactly sure how to differentiate between the 2 TDC
The rocker arms should be loose when on the correct TDC. They will still be tight when on the exhaust stroke
@@JackofAllMasterofNone ok so if set properly then on the next tdc (wrong one-exhaust) what should it feel like....just to make sure I did it right
@@liveandletlive2894 It will not have any movement at all on the exhaust stroke because the valves are partially open. Ont he intake stroke both valves will be completely closed which should produce a tiny amount of play in the rocker arms and push rods if that makes sense
@@JackofAllMasterofNone ok thanks doing the job right now
Now I'm done the job on 1 TDC both have play that I adjusted and the other has absolutely no play at all is it possible I adjusted on the exhaust stroke
Are these bikes worth the money
Worth the $1400? For sure
Brozz 'RECON' was DEFINITELY worth the $1950 shipped to my door from Peace Sports in Norcross,GA.
no, buy a real used bike instead.
Did u have any oil in the engine when u did this?
Yes. Full
@@JackofAllMasterofNone Good video, did you have to rotate the motor back to its original coordinates after the valves were adjusted? Or did you leave it lined up at the “T”?
Whats the point of doing this ?
It's a necessary maintenance item. If your valves are too loose or tight you risk engine damage at the worst or very poor running at the least.
You are adjusting what they call valve lash...! Because most small gas Engines Have Solid Lifters / PushRods , Instead of hydraulic lifters ...., on occasion they can get noisy or noisier than normal....! As long as you ( do not have a horrible loss of power ) slightly noisy Tappets are just fine ...! You do not want to much valve lash because it ( can damage pushrods and other contacting services ) in the valve train....!
“ You are Not turning the ( valve ) you are turning the rocker arm ( tappets ) ...! “
Other than incorrect Termanology ( A good video for people who “actually need to do this....! “ ) A lot of people adjust their valves not realizing that metal does expand when it is hot...! A little more Valve Lash is better than too Little ....! I have adjusted Many a race vehicle in my day with solid lifters... Always check your Valve Lash / Tappets with a feeler gauge ( before adjusting them ) ...!!!
Because they may not need adjusted at all....!!!
Ridiculous that they send these these bikes out of the factory without proper valve clearance. Would be nice if they let us know that in the owners manual!
seems like a whole lot of work for any type of difference. so you will go 50 instead of 47.
It's not even speed related, it's longevity related.