Holy crap I'm 67 years old and I finally learned how to tune a freaking mikuni. Thank you very much you don't talk too much you talk just right and tons of information. Again thank you very much I'm a subscriber now
I’m 72…you’re the old man with the wisdom…I’ve been working on motorcycles since 72….not quite as long (lol) but you’re absolutely right! Worked on my ‘72 gto in ‘72…..
Yes sir!! Just finished tuning my '67 Mustang GT!! I upgraded the exhaust and changed the intake so it needed tuning.. got it right to the sweet spot once I figured out the electronic choke issue I was having.. I'm about ready to fuel injected with the Holly system!!
@@michaelneighbors9047just know that not all carbs are the same. I use to think i understood how to do one. Then ended up with a 4mix sthil weedeater which is entirely diff from the 1½ turns each and walk em in from there i was taught on most any other 2cycle.
As a retired industrial engineer and maintenance manager I have worked with hundreds of people over my 45 year career. The key to teaching someone ANYTHING related to mechanics or industrial automation or most any other field, is to not only teach them what to do and how to do it, the most important thing to teach them is the WHY you do it! Teaching them the theory of how anything is supposed to work helps them to understand the WHY! Without the theory behind what they are doing they are just memorizing a few basic steps ie when I see this I do that. You sir are very good at teaching the theory of operation along with the what and the how. Keep it up!!
I appreciate this post. Many people bag on my lengthy rants. I get it, sometimes I repeat myself in three different ways lol . What everyone needs to remember is that I am a technician at heart. For me to fix something I have to know how it works. Just like you said. So my videos organically come from that angle. The why to me, is more valuable. I assume everyone thinks like that. But in actuality I’ve learned that it is what some people care less about on TH-cam.
Yes, great point. I wasted years trying to teach people the first thing without explaining why they need to know it. Guess I thought it should be obvious that if you dont know the first thing, you don't sufficiently know anything. And No, this is not a disguised insult. I'm serious. The first thing is potential. The only property of the first, fundamental, and only necessarily eternal principle and absolutely unbrekable Law: Allowance. The idea Yes is fundamental to anything and everything. Only telling you because as an enginner, you may be able to appriciate the lonly real Law.
I don’t think you talk to much. I find your descriptions extremely helpful. One of the reasons why I watch your videos. The explanations are great and so helpful!
Great video, just rebuild my carburettor and upjeted it for i fitted a open air turn out exhaust, could not find my colour tune so fallowed you instructions to a T and bike is running perfectly. Also what would your options be on using the colour tune ? Do you think they are any good?.
I've worked at a motorcycle/ATV repair shop for 17 years and this is the best video I have seen that explains the process of tuning in the air/fuel mixture on a carbureted engine... you have to listen to the engine and make small adjustments and give the engine time to respond to your adjustments and until you find the sweet spot..... keep up the work good bro 😎👍
Thanks for the explanation of hanging and high idle slowly returning to normal being a lean condition, and low idle creeping back to normal being a rich condition. These types of tips bring it back to the basics and make it much easier to understand. Much appreciated.
I watched your video at 2AM last night before going to bed and now my 2 stroke went from bogging to running smooth as a swiss watch. Thank you very much for the informative video, helped me out a bunch!!
Couple of things. Not bad. However, do not blip the throttle. When you blip the throttle, slide goes up feeding fuel, and then drops cutting off air. It results in a rich mixture. The best way to adjust the pilot/low speed circuit is to stabilize the idle/warm engine, set the idle speed, and then start turning the mixture screw either in or out. (It doesn't matter which) if the idle drops, you're going the wrong way. If the idle goes up, reset your idle screw to bring the idle back down and repeat. You want to get to the point where turning the mix screw one way or the other either makes it worse or does nothing at all. That's your sweet spot. Much harder with a multi-cylinder motor. As for your comment about air screws being more sensitive to adjustment, it's likely because, if the carb has an air screw, it's probably either an old street bike or something that the EPA didn't require a fine adjustment. Because of this, the taper is fatter and produces a more pronounced change with the turn. The EPA carbs had a long slim taper. (Really easy to screw them up if you turn them in too hard so be careful) They require a lot more turns to equal what something like a 1/4 turn on a non-EPA carb would take. You also mentioned compression but left out valves. A tight valve, bad seat/valve is going to throw things off so, before adjusting a carb, make sure the valves have been adjusted and the engine run. Lastly, in the 80s Yamaha made dealers purchase Allen exhaust gas analyzers. You'd install fittings in each exhaust and get a reading from a single cylinder. None of my co-workers used it but I got familiar with it. Yamaha specs were out to lunch, but I figured a great way to use it. I received lots of favorable comments from my customers when they got their bikes back. Probably the biggest take away I got from using it was, after the carbs were set on the machine, I'd check turns out from seated. These were the thin taper screws, but they would range anywhere from 1 1/2 to as far out as 3 1/2 turns! (2 1/2 was baseline) It all depended on the seat in the carb and how badly the factory had wound the screws in. (I'd actually find some that were completely seated!)
All true. If the carb manifold has a vacuum tap (for multi-carb sync or a petcock) you can also attach a vacuum gauge and adjust the idle mix screw for max vac.
Cody, you’re not talking too much. The person that would make such a comment has both an at attention span of one minute and a motorcycle that runs like crap. Keep up the good work.
Man man man man man. I was so frustrated I was gonna pour petrol on the bike and burn it to the depth of hell. I though the throttle cable was stuck or damaged. I thought I had air leak. And this this gem finally showed in the search results and fixed my bike. Thank you
I don't care if people say you talk to much, its what I need to get the information you're trying to get through and its been invaluable to me. Thank you
As a retired mechanic (who still rides) I think this is an excellent video. I have worked on everything from motorcycles (mostly kawis) to automotive to heavy truck /heavy equipment and that was a great description on carb operation and idle tuning. Happy to subscribe to your channel and look forward to viewing other carb vids. Congrats.
Just a point from a retired motorcycle mechanic and mx racer, the engine ignition timing and valve adjustment on four strokes must be correct prior to carb adjustment. Low compression or other issues will not allow proper carb adjust. Bad/old fuel is another huge factor which causes a high percentage of runnability issues. Just important factors prior trying to compensate at the carb. The carb is the last adjustment after the other areas are inspected/adjusted. Just saying...
I just did a valve adjustment, my bike was running fine before but i did the valve clearance anyway, with the new shims it sputtered as i went up in rpms, so i went back to the old shims and it did the same thing, now before it ran fine so im hoping im just running to rich
@@mikedonlon1594 AM an old school mechanic not real familiar with the shim under bucket set up on newer engines. Don't think they need adjustment as much as the earlier tappet engines and you better know what your doing before tackling the job. If it ran good before you adjusted why did you adjust?
Great advice, clear for those who just want to tinker at home! One note however; As a bike mechanic I've always been with the understanding that once you've found that sweet spot where the engine idles at it's highest, we should go clockwise 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn to make the mixture is ever so slightly rich. The rpm will still drop back great to idle (you wont notice), and it's a general rule of thumb that a teeny bit too much fuel is better than a teeny bit too much air. It keeps everything a little cooler. Engines always run most efficiently when running slightly lean (also in terms of power output). The down side of this of course is that it produces a more risky, hotter combustion. We don't need maximum power efficiency at Idle, and for this reason it's better to always adjust that 1/8-1/4 turn in. Keep up the good work!
Maybe if the ignition is strong enough at idle. Can also foul plugs and soot things up so I like to go a little lean at idle as a result. Not much. There’s so little fuel at idle and no load, so the lack of the extra piston cooling won’t matter.
@@desmo8755 At summer temps of 100+ stuck at stoplight in traffic, with air cooled engine, I'll take every bit of possible engine temp reduction i can get
@@draizwrm I hear you but it’s funny because I go a little lean because I don’t want the engine to load up … mainly for hot days idling. Depends on the machine and ignition I guess. I have a couple of old bikes and especially 2 strokes that do not like a rich pilot circuit. They may run OK for a while and cold-start well but the plugs will start getting dark if they’re idling on a summer day. Would be interesting to see how much hotter a lean burn causes at idle. Under load lean is bad, for sure, but I suspect the engine temp doesn’t change much with a lean idle. I might probe one sometime and see. And all my stuff is air cooled even an old beetle so I totally read you. If you have any test info or something let me know.
@@desmo8755 I can understand your reasoning on two strokes, i used to buy and sell little Honda 2 stroke bikes, generally the exhaust would be clogged with carbon , the sparkplug fouled, my bike is four stroke, a 2009 i bought in 2011 from the first owner, it hasn't seen an open highway in several years, it does see urban city traffic everyday , it is my primary mode of getting around town, i have no test data, or reference links
This has been the most comprehendible carburetor video I've viewed. Thank you for breaking the process down in simple terms, and performing it live. I have much more confidence in tuning now thanks to you sir. I wish you the best.
I learned SO much from this video! I'm pretty new to motorcycles and obviously no mechanic explained anything to me. It's so gratifying to now understand how these parts work! Thanks so much!
This man knows his stuff! Good show man! I've been a small engine mechanic for over 35 years and you are spot on. It's the same on every chainsaw or 2 cycle engine I've had my hands on. The braaappp and snap back is key....
I've been jetting carbs since BEFORE there was a DYNOJET... You my man are the first guy i've seen that knows what he is doing! Besides me of course...LOL.... Great video. I loved jetting back in a day... Now I have moved on...
Don’t let Guys that tell you you talk too much affect how you do your videos man! There’s a lot of people that don’t know anything at all about tuning a car and they will benefit from the extra effort and the explanation you put into the video!! There is always gonna be those people that say negatively, and they are the ones that like to hear themselves talk
First off, i love the fact you “talk to much” i have learnt more from you, than for ANYONE on youtube (proud to call myself an MD member) This vid explained so so so much!! Keep them coming 😊 they are AWESOME!
Wow am 62 years old and I did my carburetor on my ATC three wheeler thanks I followed your video how to clean and how to adjust it and I did it yes 👍 thank you so much 👍👍👍
You do not talk too much. As someone who knows very little about engines and just bought a bike this is invaluable. I am learning so much. You are going to save me thousand of dollars. Thank you.
This was totally helpful. I am troubleshooting a DR650 carb. Based on your video, the carb was running rich. I got the carb dialed in now. Thank You! 🏍️✔️
I have struggled with this aspect of carb tuning for a long time. No one has ever explained the theory as you did. Simple steps to remember, hanging idle and drop being lean and the drop below idle too rich. Awesome, beautiful explanation very nicely done. My 95 Ducati SS and 74 Honda 360 are very happy. Thanks sir.
I always did the highest rpm at idle and it has usually worked for me. Warm it up, then set a reasonable rpm for idle then fiddle slightly with the needle until you get the highest rpm possible.
Dude screw those guys who say that you talk too much. The more you explain it the better my understanding of it. A big thank you for helping people who don;t know how to get a carb set up and tuned correctly. There are always going to be that faction of people who feed off of negativity and haven;t leqarned the biggest lesson in life. Just ignor them. They are not worth listening to.
First time I ever understood how to actually do this. I also love the fact that you don't care what type or brand of motorcycle the viewer is riding and instead make everyone feel welcome. You have my sub to the channel, now I'm off to find a video of your on how to clean a carb properly, as that's where I'm currently at with my 1988 Yamaha YZ125. Thank you! :)
Cody your detailed description is perfect for me, ive listened to so many & still have to pause play pause play whilst im working on my bike. I was starting to think ive got a problem until i watched one of your videos on carb tuning & it was perfect, so thank you great work...
All of your info is accurate, if i ever had to go past 2.5 turns out on the fuel screw though id always go to a larger pilot then start over to prevent the chance of the screw vibrating out over time. I personally dont feel like its got enough spring tension to hold the fuel screw in long term past 2.5 turns out.
What I learned that stood out the most was the position of the mixture screws. Air vs fuel. Huge lightbulb. The whole video taught me a lot, and I appreciate it. ❤
Great video, very well explained. Fantastic for the generations who didn't grow up with carbs. This will help to keep our muched loved machines used and loved for generations to come.
Such a simple yet effective method. Alongside your jetting for pod filters video, I'm finally on the right track to getting my bike running right. I was so far off but this technique let's me know that quickly and easily.
You didn't talk to much at all. Understanding why the bike revs the way it does is what finally helped me understand how to tune my carb right. Totally appreciate the informative video, the previous owner of my pitbike said they had it tuned just right and it ran well but the thing backfired a ton and idled too high. Now it's dialed in and runs way better.
The biggest mistake I see, on older bike epically, is when people don't check the intake manifolds and chase their tail trying to tune carbs. Alway spray water at the intake rubbers before you touch any screws air leaks will cause high Idle, as you spray water the idle will drop. Excellent video you made son. This works on every carburetor ever made on any motor. You want the highest idle with the lowest slide setting you can get with that back to idle quick. It's a lot of trial and error. No 2 carbs act the same so the book is just a rough starting point. If you live on a mountain or by the sea everything changes.
I work on CBX's and find that synchronization of the carbs needs to be performed first. If one carb has the throttle blade open just a little more than the other 5, it basically fights for supremacy and causes a hanging idle. 2 or more out of sync is worse. That's why an accurate (as possible) bench sync is important. I also enlarge the idle jets from #35 to #38 to compensate for the loss of BTU's in today's fuels in addition to being designed lean to pass emissions. Your video is very informative.
Right how to vids do talk Alot more info the better ,The ones who say to much talking R the ones who know it ALL and we know THEY dont know shit .This was a great vid
Bro you've just helped me with my new bike and the new carburetor I put on it. I had absolutely no knowledge of how to tune it and your videos saved me. THANK YOU I am so happy to hear my first bike run like a champ and I'm learning so much about bikes I'm glad I bought this cheap beginner bike to learn with.
You definitely do not talk too much, I would literally pay for this information I mean you explain it so well, better than most people. Thanks a lot brother!
Man, when you said people in the comments say you talk to much, all I could think was please don't listen to those fool. I have qualifications and have worked maintenance and design engineering, and can find no fault in your explanations. Please keep up the awesome work and thanks for the content.
You are looking for the highest idle with the mixture screw, which allows the slide to be adjusted to the most closed position which will reduce run on etc. The highest idle is the most efficient air fuel mix poss, hence why it idles the highest with the correct mix. If the screw ends up in to far or out to far to gain that highest idle then it is a guide to know which way to change the pilot jet to suit.
I just set the idle speed screw a bit fast, keep adjusting the idle mixture until the engine is at its fastest then richen the idle mixture by 1/4 turn and readjust the idle speed back to normal. However, on my 2stroke bike, I set it lean and leave it there. Not bothered by a hanging idle and it prevents the engine being fluffy from oiling up a bit when running slowly in woods.
Bro thank you!!! Other say you talk a lot but boy it helps tremendously for us folks that are just learning how to tune bikes. I have a mini bike carburetor issues. Trailmaster storm 200 Upgraded my air intake and jet then the carburetor started to leak but it’s the stock carburetor and after watching your video I’m feeling better and more confident on what to look and listen for!! Appreciate you!! ✊🏽
Hi Cody Greetings from NZ, I have slowly learned how to rebuild and sync my carburetors but haven't yet mastered the fuel mixture adjustments. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me, I appreciate what you do.
Now you have basically cleaned a thousands plus including mine. Appreciate the breakdown and knowledge bro. Sharing knowledge is important and appreciated.
Your explanation of the lean and rich conditions of the how the engine operates was fantastic. Never had it explained that way to me and then backing it up with actual examples just really solidified it for me. Thank you so much!
I've worked on hundreds of carbs but always learning how to do things with less guess work! Love your explaination and demonstration. I am better having watched your video. Cheers!
Would be interesting (for those of us who like to nerd out) for you to take a wideband o2 sensor and see where the mixture sweet spot ends up being on a gauge after you tune by ear as shown here. I’m guessing this method would produce mixtures around 12.5-13.0:1 air fuel ratio for pump gas.
@@greatestevar Depends if your air or water cooled and if your using an over rich mixture to compensate for bad combustion chamber design (extra fuel to prevent knock)
Just found you today. I just bought a 2002 Kawasaki Concours C10 and want to work on my own bike. Im 70 now and this is my first bike since 1995 and my last bike was an 82 Kawasaki 1000 CSR so Im hoping I can get it together to learn all about my bike and how it runs and return to riding confident in my machine. Thank you for your videos! Cheers.
I’ve watched your other videos that include mixture adjustments, glad to see you bring it back to light. In the past I never knew how it was supposed to be done. Thank you for sharing!
You might have just saved me from losing my bike man. I was about to give up on it fr. I haven't tried these screws but I'm just as new to riding as I am to carbs. I'm learning, though and you've taught me a lot in just this video alone and given me some hope.
Good info here. I have been using a ColorTune see-through spark plug from Gunson to set the idle mixture....by watching the color of fuel burning in the cylinder. Yellow glow is too rich, white is too lean, good deep blue is the ideal mixture.
Brother you a LEGEND!! I've been screwing around with a bike and almost bought a new carb...and agent service wasn't any better. My Yamaha BWS 100 scooter has never been healthier, even since new 👍Appreciate you! 👋
Hey Cody, thanks for your video and tips. Though you picked an easy one by working on a bike that only has one carburator. This technique is pretty hard to apply when working on a 4 or 6 cylinders engine. After years of trying this I finally came to the conclusion that the only (easy) way to fine tune the idle mixture screws is to use a colortune where you can see the color of the mixture when exploding in the cylinder.
Totally concur. Using a simple single carb while making it easy to see, hear and understand, simply does not apply well to multi carb setups. Whether that is 3,4 or 6 carbs.
Yep. Adjusting multi cylinder pilot (fuel) screws all at once and then judging results by how engine returns to idle is wrong. Carbs must be synced first and then each one adjusted one at a time while correcting carb sync and idle speed as you go along. Honda's method is called an "idle drop" using an accurate tach to determine proper adjustment but having a good ear is very helpful. Ex Honda Ser. mgr. @@anonimous2451
DAMN DUDE, I'VE BEEN STRUGGLING WITH THIS ISSUE FOR ABOUT A YEAR ON MY 02 XR 250. BEEN GOING BACK & FORTH & BACK & FORTH. REALLY FRUSTRATING. SO FINDING YOUR VIDEO TODAY WAS A HUGE HELP MAN. THANKS FOR EXPLAINING EVERYTHING IN DETAIL. BECAUSE WHEN YOUR WATCHING THESE TYPES OF VIDEOS EXPLAINING THINGS SLOWLY & VERY DETAILED IS KEY. AT LEAST TO ME THEY ARE. SO AGAIN , DEFINITELY APPRECIATE IT BRO. 🤘🤘🤘🤘
Nice video and good explanations. Although as a generale rule you can tell what you are adjusting (air/fuel) depending on the position of the screw, there are exceptions. For example my Honda 50cc Joker which has an air adjusting screw but positioned on the 'fuel' side of the carburetor. What is worth mentioning is that a 100% way to determine what kind of adjusment you have is the type of screw tip you have. If you have a conic shaped end of the screw it is an air adjustment screw. If it ends with a very thin needle shape then it is fuel that your are adjusting.
excellent video, i love it, ive just turned 18 and i have my dad's 26 yr old hero-honda splendor and i've been adjusting that screw without knowing anything, i used it to get different power and economy and also changed to a leaner mixture in winters without knowing, never touched the fuel screw, now imma fiddle with it
My daughter's 98cc go kart was acting weird past half throttle. You helped me figure out that it was A. rich AF, B. The main jet was loose and C. How to tune it after i fixed B., which was causing A. It has never run this good and i couldn't have done it without you. I dont really care ehether you read the comment or not, but the least i can do is a like and comment. 🤙
I’m just getting into small engines and my father in law is a legit pro so I’m trying to get up to his speed so this was a huge help with filling in some knowledge I was missing!
First off- Thanks for the vid on tuning a carb with the Air Screw set-up i have exactly the same setup. And another note I like how you have a nickel to show how precised Air/fuel is dialed in that 6cyl monster, NICE JOB! WELL BALANCED MICHINE.⚙️🔧...
Whoever thinks this is too much talking is a person that impatiently thinks and listens too little. I am in process of rebuilding and tuning a fleet of snowmobile carburetors and this is great information!
This is the best video of its type I've seen he is clear doesn't waste time on stuff u dont need and best of all it works .I will be watching plenty more of his videos . Keep up the good work
What i learnt from watching a fella tune his hemi 6 was u can buy a device called a colour tune which lets u see the colour of the spark cournel as the engine is running. Seems a great visual way to adjust air and fuel for optimum performance. Thanks for your video . Talking through your points is good
I have played with things like this since I was a kid. But I had no idea of the technical points of it, only that I could tell when it was running right. So, decades later I am playing with a Nibbi and Predator engine. I think it is easier to fatten it up and add air than to try to add fuel that isn't there. It is a good day to play with it more. This is a great video.
Hi Cody, Thanks for the wonderful video. I've been browsing for carburetor tuning instructions for some time, but it wasn't until I saw your video that I found exactly what I needed. As a newbie to motorcycle restoration, your comprehensive approach and method of explaining made it easy to understand and follow. Now, my '81 GL1100 is running great. I really appreciate it!
60 here. Just got my '74 iron head back from the shop. I've had it since 1999. And the whole time I could never tell what was hearing. They had it dailed in and I screwed it up again while I riding home. I was to embarrassed to ever ask for help. Now I kwon what to listen for. Thanks for doing these videos.
My first experience with small engines is a Zircon 150cc go kart. It was given to me because it didnt run. Without this video it still would not be running. This video was a huge help
THANK YOU SO MUCH! Rejetting my beta X-Trainer for 13k feet since we’re about to climb a mountain and I need to know how to adjust my carb correctly for when I’m there, and when I rejet for back home where we’re at sea level. Thanks for taking the time to explain this!
Good stuff bro I bet you're a kick ass mechanic. This was very helpful. I just installed a card on my bike and have to initially said the carb. There are not a lot of professionals like yourself making videos, most are by average dudes so it's refreshing to have a professional giving advice. Keep up the good work and once again thank you.
great video! Don't listen to folks who tell you that you talk too much. You explain things very well for people who want to learn. It's only after we learn what's up that it seems you're talking too much because we already know what you're saying. Keep it up bro, thanks for all your help!!
I was having a hard time tuning the carb on my early 2000's Honda Wave (a 100cc Southeast Asian moped that has its roots from the legendary supercub) after installing a bore-up kit. Your video helped a lot. You deserved my sub!
Best carb video hands down !! Great training piece for us novices to watch and understand carb concepts from a seasoned expert. There’s huge satisfaction in becoming more self reliant / self sufficient. Many thx !!!
okay I just had a little 22 scooter and I have watched so many videos I changed out my carburetor went with a bigger car never done any of this before in my life and I just watched TH-cam figured out how to do it but I watched so many videos and none of them exactly tell you how to do the the air fuel mixture your video I followed exactly and it's cranked up every time it idles perfect and it runs great thank you so much for your videos that you do.
Don't listen to folks saying you talk too much, how stupid. We are here to listen to you talk. Near the end you seem to have set the screw to get the highest idle rather than using the technique the video is about. Thanks for all your video, great stuff.
You got a new subscriber here. Thank you. I'm currently in the middle of cleaning and rebuilding my son's carb and mine. This is going to be a huge help with dialing in my son's. Again, thank you. Btw, great video.
So good - thanks Cody! Just re-set the mixture of the Dellortos on my '75 Moto Guzzi. They were very lean as I had set them prior (per "conventional wisdom"), and I had all the symptoms you described. Now it warms quicker, idles lower, drops from a blip faster, and no flubby delivery from 2K to 4K rpm. Easy and fast to do too. Awesome!
🤯I was so confused and running too lean after I installed my carb for a gy6. This is THE BEST video on explaining. I know exactly what's going on and how to fix it. Thank you!!
First video of yours I've watched... your explanation of things should help the ones that doesn't know, if they say you talk to much, they obviously know most of everything or don't care about how it works! Good job fella!
I have spent 20+ hours trying to get my dirt bike to run, trying to learn carbs. This video is a godsend and now my bike is running right!
I feel the same. This was an amazing video
9okm😂9th 😅oo89o 9:27 9999😅
Holy crap I'm 67 years old and I finally learned how to tune a freaking mikuni. Thank you very much you don't talk too much you talk just right and tons of information. Again thank you very much I'm a subscriber now
Couldn’t agree more
They are the best carb for my HARLY
Makes so much sense. Wish I’d known this earlier. Superb and simple explanation. Thank you so much.
82ND
Sup ole' timer??
62 y/o ...Mikuni's gonna hum after this!!
I am 74 years old and have doing it for 55 years. It works exactly like that for cars as well. We call it the sweet spot.❤🎉
I’m 72…you’re the old man with the wisdom…I’ve been working on motorcycles since 72….not quite as long (lol) but you’re absolutely right! Worked on my ‘72 gto in ‘72…..
I learned to tune carbs from an wise old man in 83 just after highschool.
Works for any carb I have ran into since.
Yes sir!! Just finished tuning my '67 Mustang GT!! I upgraded the exhaust and changed the intake so it needed tuning.. got it right to the sweet spot once I figured out the electronic choke issue I was having.. I'm about ready to fuel injected with the Holly system!!
99 years old
@@michaelneighbors9047just know that not all carbs are the same.
I use to think i understood how to do one. Then ended up with a 4mix sthil weedeater which is entirely diff from the 1½ turns each and walk em in from there i was taught on most any other 2cycle.
As a retired industrial engineer and maintenance manager I have worked with hundreds of people over my 45 year career. The key to teaching someone ANYTHING related to mechanics or industrial automation or most any other field, is to not only teach them what to do and how to do it, the most important thing to teach them is the WHY you do it! Teaching them the theory of how anything is supposed to work helps them to understand the WHY! Without the theory behind what they are doing they are just memorizing a few basic steps ie when I see this I do that. You sir are very good at teaching the theory of operation along with the what and the how. Keep it up!!
I appreciate this post. Many people bag on my lengthy rants. I get it, sometimes I repeat myself in three different ways lol .
What everyone needs to remember is that I am a technician at heart. For me to fix something I have to know how it works. Just like you said. So my videos organically come from that angle. The why to me, is more valuable. I assume everyone thinks like that. But in actuality I’ve learned that it is what some people care less about on TH-cam.
Yes, great point. I wasted years trying to teach people the first thing without explaining why they need to know it.
Guess I thought it should be obvious that if you dont know the first thing, you don't sufficiently know anything.
And No, this is not a disguised insult. I'm serious. The first thing is potential. The only property of the first, fundamental, and only necessarily eternal principle and absolutely unbrekable Law: Allowance. The idea Yes is fundamental to anything and everything. Only telling you because as an enginner, you may be able to appriciate the lonly real Law.
Same here, as an engineer, theory over instruction any day
but when mixed with experience we get a great and rounded mind!
Keep up the good work Cody!
I don’t think you talk to much. I find your descriptions extremely helpful. One of the reasons why I watch your videos. The explanations are great and so helpful!
Agree!
I do think you have too much to say, just get down to the job in hand. Thanks.
I concur. I'm a d.y.i type of person. Love the way/why you explain things. Stay blessed
Very well explained, eventually, but no need for the: "I Will be talking about this and this and this". Nevertheless, thank you very much!
Great video, just rebuild my carburettor and upjeted it for i fitted a open air turn out exhaust, could not find my colour tune so fallowed you instructions to a T and bike is running perfectly. Also what would your options be on using the colour tune ? Do you think they are any good?.
I've worked at a motorcycle/ATV repair shop for 17 years and this is the best video I have seen that explains the process of tuning in the air/fuel mixture on a carbureted engine... you have to listen to the engine and make small adjustments and give the engine time to respond to your adjustments and until you find the sweet spot..... keep up the work good bro 😎👍
Thanks for the explanation of hanging and high idle slowly returning to normal being a lean condition, and low idle creeping back to normal being a rich condition. These types of tips bring it back to the basics and make it much easier to understand. Much appreciated.
Yes this is the one we’re looking for. Couldve started the video from 7min onwards
Excellent Instructions keep on teaching
@@mohdfarizkamarulzaman2081BBC bbq big gvvv
Hanging also can happen from a leakage on intake parts
Very thorough and informative. Thanks🤘
I watched your video at 2AM last night before going to bed and now my 2 stroke went from bogging to running smooth as a swiss watch.
Thank you very much for the informative video, helped me out a bunch!!
Fantastic!
Couple of things. Not bad. However, do not blip the throttle. When you blip the throttle, slide goes up feeding fuel, and then drops cutting off air. It results in a rich mixture. The best way to adjust the pilot/low speed circuit is to stabilize the idle/warm engine, set the idle speed, and then start turning the mixture screw either in or out. (It doesn't matter which) if the idle drops, you're going the wrong way. If the idle goes up, reset your idle screw to bring the idle back down and repeat. You want to get to the point where turning the mix screw one way or the other either makes it worse or does nothing at all. That's your sweet spot. Much harder with a multi-cylinder motor. As for your comment about air screws being more sensitive to adjustment, it's likely because, if the carb has an air screw, it's probably either an old street bike or something that the EPA didn't require a fine adjustment. Because of this, the taper is fatter and produces a more pronounced change with the turn. The EPA carbs had a long slim taper. (Really easy to screw them up if you turn them in too hard so be careful) They require a lot more turns to equal what something like a 1/4 turn on a non-EPA carb would take. You also mentioned compression but left out valves. A tight valve, bad seat/valve is going to throw things off so, before adjusting a carb, make sure the valves have been adjusted and the engine run. Lastly, in the 80s Yamaha made dealers purchase Allen exhaust gas analyzers. You'd install fittings in each exhaust and get a reading from a single cylinder. None of my co-workers used it but I got familiar with it. Yamaha specs were out to lunch, but I figured a great way to use it. I received lots of favorable comments from my customers when they got their bikes back. Probably the biggest take away I got from using it was, after the carbs were set on the machine, I'd check turns out from seated. These were the thin taper screws, but they would range anywhere from 1 1/2 to as far out as 3 1/2 turns! (2 1/2 was baseline) It all depended on the seat in the carb and how badly the factory had wound the screws in. (I'd actually find some that were completely seated!)
Thank you Mike. You just fixed my low idle and backfire issue. A diamond Gentleman :)
Do you change the low speed jet if your fuel/air screw is to far in or out?
@@elmeradams8781 you can.
Where is yur shop?
All true. If the carb manifold has a vacuum tap (for multi-carb sync or a petcock) you can also attach a vacuum gauge and adjust the idle mix screw for max vac.
I've always struggled with adjusting the air, but you just explained it in 15 minutes. Love your videos!
Cody, you’re not talking too much. The person that would make such a comment has both an at attention span of one minute and a motorcycle that runs like crap. Keep up the good work.
Really
Means a lot man thank you for that encouragement
@@TheMotorcycleMDt CD mp
Pno
Hi bro u got any vids of doing carbs on a 87 honda magna or any thing similar 4 carbed
I fully agree. I can see that you would be a great instructor!
Dean
Retired Teacher
Man man man man man.
I was so frustrated I was gonna pour petrol on the bike and burn it to the depth of hell. I though the throttle cable was stuck or damaged. I thought I had air leak.
And this this gem finally showed in the search results and fixed my bike.
Thank you
Let’s gooooo! Don’t burn her down yet! 🤙🏻
I don't care if people say you talk to much, its what I need to get the information you're trying to get through and its been invaluable to me. Thank you
As a retired mechanic (who still rides) I think this is an excellent video. I have worked on everything from motorcycles (mostly kawis) to automotive to heavy truck /heavy equipment and that was a great description on carb operation and idle tuning. Happy to subscribe to your channel and look forward to viewing other carb vids. Congrats.
Thanks for the encouragement man! Happy to have you with the channel
Hey man I have a question, does the idle screw also affect low rpm power or do I still need to change the pilot jet? Thanks 👍
I need a mechanic
Just a point from a retired motorcycle mechanic and mx racer, the engine ignition timing and valve adjustment on four strokes must be correct prior to carb adjustment. Low compression or other issues will not allow proper carb adjust. Bad/old fuel is another huge factor which causes a high percentage of runnability issues. Just important factors prior trying to compensate at the carb. The carb is the last adjustment after the other areas are inspected/adjusted. Just saying...
I just did a valve adjustment, my bike was running fine before but i did the valve clearance anyway, with the new shims it sputtered as i went up in rpms, so i went back to the old shims and it did the same thing, now before it ran fine so im hoping im just running to rich
@@mikedonlon1594 AM an old school mechanic not real familiar with the shim under bucket set up on newer engines. Don't think they need adjustment as much as the earlier tappet engines and you better know what your doing before tackling the job. If it ran good before you adjusted why did you adjust?
Great advice, clear for those who just want to tinker at home! One note however; As a bike mechanic I've always been with the understanding that once you've found that sweet spot where the engine idles at it's highest, we should go clockwise 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn to make the mixture is ever so slightly rich. The rpm will still drop back great to idle (you wont notice), and it's a general rule of thumb that a teeny bit too much fuel is better than a teeny bit too much air. It keeps everything a little cooler. Engines always run most efficiently when running slightly lean (also in terms of power output). The down side of this of course is that it produces a more risky, hotter combustion. We don't need maximum power efficiency at Idle, and for this reason it's better to always adjust that 1/8-1/4 turn in. Keep up the good work!
Maybe if the ignition is strong enough at idle. Can also foul plugs and soot things up so I like to go a little lean at idle as a result. Not much. There’s so little fuel at idle and no load, so the lack of the extra piston cooling won’t matter.
@@desmo8755
At summer temps of 100+ stuck at stoplight in traffic, with air cooled engine, I'll take every bit of possible engine temp reduction i can get
@@draizwrm I hear you but it’s funny because I go a little lean because I don’t want the engine to load up … mainly for hot days idling. Depends on the machine and ignition I guess. I have a couple of old bikes and especially 2 strokes that do not like a rich pilot circuit. They may run OK for a while and cold-start well but the plugs will start getting dark if they’re idling on a summer day. Would be interesting to see how much hotter a lean burn causes at idle. Under load lean is bad, for sure, but I suspect the engine temp doesn’t change much with a lean idle. I might probe one sometime and see. And all my stuff is air cooled even an old beetle so I totally read you. If you have any test info or something let me know.
@@desmo8755
I can understand your reasoning on two strokes, i used to buy and sell little Honda 2 stroke bikes, generally the exhaust would be clogged with carbon , the sparkplug fouled,
my bike is four stroke, a 2009 i bought in 2011 from the first owner, it hasn't seen an open highway in several years, it does see urban city traffic everyday , it is my primary mode of getting around town, i have no test data, or reference links
I always thought that if it’s running lean at idle then it would run lean at full power. Throttle and mixture control are two different things.
This has been the most comprehendible carburetor video I've viewed. Thank you for breaking the process down in simple terms, and performing it live. I have much more confidence in tuning now thanks to you sir. I wish you the best.
Glad it was helpful!
I learned SO much from this video! I'm pretty new to motorcycles and obviously no mechanic explained anything to me. It's so gratifying to now understand how these parts work! Thanks so much!
Glad you enjoyed it man! 👌🏻👌🏻
This man knows his stuff! Good show man! I've been a small engine mechanic for over 35 years and you are spot on. It's the same on every chainsaw or 2 cycle engine I've had my hands on. The braaappp and snap back is key....
I've been jetting carbs since BEFORE there was a DYNOJET... You my man are the first guy i've seen that knows what he is doing! Besides me of course...LOL.... Great video. I loved jetting back in a day... Now I have moved on...
Don’t let Guys that tell you you talk too much affect how you do your videos man! There’s a lot of people that don’t know anything at all about tuning a car and they will benefit from the extra effort and the explanation you put into the video!! There is always gonna be those people that say negatively, and they are the ones that like to hear themselves talk
Appreciate that!
First off, i love the fact you “talk to much” i have learnt more from you, than for ANYONE on youtube (proud to call myself an MD member)
This vid explained so so so much!! Keep them coming 😊 they are AWESOME!
Super encouraging to hear this man thank you
Wow am 62 years old and I did my carburetor on my ATC three wheeler thanks I followed your video how to clean and how to adjust it and I did it yes 👍 thank you so much 👍👍👍
Great informative video from someone who knows what they are talking about and not just guessing or parroting someone else's infomation.
You do not talk too much. As someone who knows very little about engines and just bought a bike this is invaluable. I am learning so much. You are going to save me thousand of dollars. Thank you.
This was totally helpful. I am troubleshooting a DR650 carb. Based on your video, the carb was running rich. I got the carb dialed in now. Thank You! 🏍️✔️
I have struggled with this aspect of carb tuning for a long time. No one has ever explained the theory as you did. Simple steps to remember, hanging idle and drop being lean and the drop below idle too rich. Awesome, beautiful explanation very nicely done. My 95 Ducati SS and 74 Honda 360 are very happy. Thanks sir.
Summarized nicely.
I always did the highest rpm at idle and it has usually worked for me. Warm it up, then set a reasonable rpm for idle then fiddle slightly with the needle until you get the highest rpm possible.
Or highest manifold vacuum
Dude screw those guys who say that you talk too much. The more you explain it the better my understanding of it. A big thank you for helping people who don;t know how to get a carb set up and tuned correctly. There are always going to be that faction of people who feed off of negativity and haven;t leqarned the biggest lesson in life. Just ignor them. They are not worth listening to.
First time I ever understood how to actually do this. I also love the fact that you don't care what type or brand of motorcycle the viewer is riding and instead make everyone feel welcome.
You have my sub to the channel, now I'm off to find a video of your on how to clean a carb properly, as that's where I'm currently at with my 1988 Yamaha YZ125. Thank you! :)
Thanks for hanging around Robert!
@@TheMotorcycleMDI have a 1974 ST90 Honda and need a recon head and jug can you help me locate these parts .thanks
Cody your detailed description is perfect for me, ive listened to so many & still have to pause play pause play whilst im working on my bike. I was starting to think ive got a problem until i watched one of your videos on carb tuning & it was perfect, so thank you great work...
All of your info is accurate, if i ever had to go past 2.5 turns out on the fuel screw though id always go to a larger pilot then start over to prevent the chance of the screw vibrating out over time. I personally dont feel like its got enough spring tension to hold the fuel screw in long term past 2.5 turns out.
Shit. Mine are way out
Mate. This is the absolute best and simplest explanation I've ever seen. You've just made life a heck of a lot easier man, keep it up.
Glad you made this, I have a friend who's having some trouble understanding carbs so i sent this his way
What I learned that stood out the most was the position of the mixture screws. Air vs fuel. Huge lightbulb. The whole video taught me a lot, and I appreciate it. ❤
Great video, very well explained. Fantastic for the generations who didn't grow up with carbs.
This will help to keep our muched loved machines used and loved for generations to come.
Los carburadores siguen siendo los más comunes en la mayoría de motocicletas. Al menos en Latinoamérica.
I've seen a lot of carb tuning videos and this is the first that really explained to me well. Thanks man. I've gotta try this and see for myself.
🤘🏻🤘🏻
This is the most informational video I could find on carberators, Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Such a simple yet effective method. Alongside your jetting for pod filters video, I'm finally on the right track to getting my bike running right. I was so far off but this technique let's me know that quickly and easily.
🤙🏻🤙🏻
Your explanation simplifies what was a mystery to me for years. Took 2 minutes to set my bike up and it runs awesome now! Thank you Cody.
Of course! Glad it helped
You didn't talk to much at all. Understanding why the bike revs the way it does is what finally helped me understand how to tune my carb right. Totally appreciate the informative video, the previous owner of my pitbike said they had it tuned just right and it ran well but the thing backfired a ton and idled too high. Now it's dialed in and runs way better.
The biggest mistake I see, on older bike epically, is when people don't check the intake manifolds and chase their tail trying to tune carbs. Alway spray water at the intake rubbers before you touch any screws air leaks will cause high Idle, as you spray water the idle will drop.
Excellent video you made son. This works on every carburetor ever made on any motor. You want the highest idle with the lowest slide setting you can get with that back to idle quick. It's a lot of trial and error. No 2 carbs act the same so the book is just a rough starting point. If you live on a mountain or by the sea everything changes.
Bingo! Thanks for the feedback. I’m hoping this one helps a lot of people.
I work on CBX's and find that synchronization of the carbs needs to be performed first. If one carb has the throttle blade open just a little more than the other 5, it basically fights for supremacy and causes a hanging idle. 2 or more out of sync is worse. That's why an accurate (as possible) bench sync is important. I also enlarge the idle jets from #35 to #38 to compensate for the loss of BTU's in today's fuels in addition to being designed lean to pass emissions. Your video is very informative.
ppl really complain about u talking to much. these are how to vids, i hate how to vids where u don't get enough information. ppl just like to complain
Should I buy a bike with a bad corporator
Exactly. Other videos don’t talk enough about. They forget they are talking to someone who is learning
Right how to vids do talk Alot more info the better ,The ones who say to much talking R the ones who know it ALL and we know THEY dont know shit .This was a great vid
@@PoloUnexpectedly-ev1cyu could just replace it they cost like 30 bucks
Bro you've just helped me with my new bike and the new carburetor I put on it. I had absolutely no knowledge of how to tune it and your videos saved me. THANK YOU I am so happy to hear my first bike run like a champ and I'm learning so much about bikes I'm glad I bought this cheap beginner bike to learn with.
You definitely do not talk too much, I would literally pay for this information I mean you explain it so well, better than most people. Thanks a lot brother!
Man, when you said people in the comments say you talk to much, all I could think was please don't listen to those fool. I have qualifications and have worked maintenance and design engineering, and can find no fault in your explanations. Please keep up the awesome work and thanks for the content.
You are looking for the highest idle with the mixture screw, which allows the slide to be adjusted to the most closed position which will reduce run on etc. The highest idle is the most efficient air fuel mix poss, hence why it idles the highest with the correct mix. If the screw ends up in to far or out to far to gain that highest idle then it is a guide to know which way to change the pilot jet to suit.
You rock man, thank you 😊 I sincerely appreciate professionals like yourself who provide actionable/tangible knowledge to dummies like me.
I just set the idle speed screw a bit fast, keep adjusting the idle mixture until the engine is at its fastest then richen the idle mixture by 1/4 turn and readjust the idle speed back to normal.
However, on my 2stroke bike, I set it lean and leave it there. Not bothered by a hanging idle and it prevents the engine being fluffy from oiling up a bit when running slowly in woods.
Bro thank you!!! Other say you talk a lot but boy it helps tremendously for us folks that are just learning how to tune bikes. I have a mini bike carburetor issues.
Trailmaster storm 200
Upgraded my air intake and jet then the carburetor started to leak but it’s the stock carburetor and after watching your video I’m feeling better and more confident on what to look and listen for!!
Appreciate you!! ✊🏽
Hi Cody
Greetings from NZ, I have slowly learned how to rebuild and sync my carburetors but haven't yet mastered the fuel mixture adjustments. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me, I appreciate what you do.
My pleasure man!
Now you have basically cleaned a thousands plus including mine. Appreciate the breakdown and knowledge bro. Sharing knowledge is important and appreciated.
Your explanation of the lean and rich conditions of the how the engine operates was fantastic. Never had it explained that way to me and then backing it up with actual examples just really solidified it for me. Thank you so much!
Glad it helped man!
I've worked on hundreds of carbs but always learning how to do things with less guess work! Love your explaination and demonstration. I am better having watched your video. Cheers!
Would be interesting (for those of us who like to nerd out) for you to take a wideband o2 sensor and see where the mixture sweet spot ends up being on a gauge after you tune by ear as shown here. I’m guessing this method would produce mixtures around 12.5-13.0:1 air fuel ratio for pump gas.
For maximum performance, 13:1 is common on street engines.
It may get richer a when accelerating as rpm is still building.
@@greatestevar Depends if your air or water cooled and if your using an over rich mixture to compensate for bad combustion chamber design (extra fuel to prevent knock)
Just found you today. I just bought a 2002 Kawasaki Concours C10 and want to work on my own bike. Im 70 now and this is my first bike since 1995 and my last bike was an 82 Kawasaki 1000 CSR so Im hoping I can get it together to learn all about my bike and how it runs and return to riding confident in my machine. Thank you for your videos! Cheers.
I’ve watched your other videos that include mixture adjustments, glad to see you bring it back to light. In the past I never knew how it was supposed to be done. Thank you for sharing!
You might have just saved me from losing my bike man. I was about to give up on it fr. I haven't tried these screws but I'm just as new to riding as I am to carbs. I'm learning, though and you've taught me a lot in just this video alone and given me some hope.
Good info here. I have been using a ColorTune see-through spark plug from Gunson to set the idle mixture....by watching the color of fuel burning in the cylinder. Yellow glow is too rich, white is too lean, good deep blue is the ideal mixture.
Does that work for any plug?
@buddahmayne9273 ColorTune can be used for most plugs. Just get the right thread size you need.
@@TornadoCAN99 what about for a predator 212cc
@buddahmayne9273 I dont know the bike. Just check the plug size (owners manual?) and see if there is a colortune that fits.
@@TornadoCAN99 thanks ill look into it
Brother you a LEGEND!! I've been screwing around with a bike and almost bought a new carb...and agent service wasn't any better. My Yamaha BWS 100 scooter has never been healthier, even since new 👍Appreciate you! 👋
Hey Cody, thanks for your video and tips. Though you picked an easy one by working on a bike that only has one carburator. This technique is pretty hard to apply when working on a 4 or 6 cylinders engine. After years of trying this I finally came to the conclusion that the only (easy) way to fine tune the idle mixture screws is to use a colortune where you can see the color of the mixture when exploding in the cylinder.
Totally concur. Using a simple single carb while making it easy to see, hear and understand, simply does not apply well to multi carb setups. Whether that is 3,4 or 6 carbs.
Yep. Adjusting multi cylinder pilot (fuel) screws all at once and then judging results by how engine returns to idle is wrong. Carbs must be synced first and then each one adjusted one at a time while correcting carb sync and idle speed as you go along. Honda's method is called an "idle drop" using an accurate tach to determine proper adjustment but having a good ear is very helpful. Ex Honda Ser. mgr. @@anonimous2451
What is a "color tune" a movable O2 sensor or are you just referring to the plug porcelain tone after a short run with new plugs, or something else?
@@jeffreystroman2811 It's a Tool. Google it. u will see
DAMN DUDE, I'VE BEEN STRUGGLING WITH THIS ISSUE FOR ABOUT A YEAR ON MY 02 XR 250. BEEN GOING BACK & FORTH & BACK & FORTH. REALLY FRUSTRATING. SO FINDING YOUR VIDEO TODAY WAS A HUGE HELP MAN. THANKS FOR EXPLAINING EVERYTHING IN DETAIL. BECAUSE WHEN YOUR WATCHING THESE TYPES OF VIDEOS EXPLAINING THINGS SLOWLY & VERY DETAILED IS KEY. AT LEAST TO ME THEY ARE. SO AGAIN , DEFINITELY APPRECIATE IT BRO.
🤘🤘🤘🤘
Nice video and good explanations.
Although as a generale rule you can tell what you are adjusting (air/fuel) depending on the position of the screw, there are exceptions. For example my Honda 50cc Joker which has an air adjusting screw but positioned on the 'fuel' side of the carburetor.
What is worth mentioning is that a 100% way to determine what kind of adjusment you have is the type of screw tip you have. If you have a conic shaped end of the screw it is an air adjustment screw. If it ends with a very thin needle shape then it is fuel that your are adjusting.
So, some people say you talk too much, I say keep talking it benefits all of us. Thank You
This has been the most helpful video I have viewed so far about personal motorcycle maintenance. Thank you
Hi I'm a barber and I can tell you brush your beard too much! Leave it alone only brush it with boar brush after shower! Friendly tip😁
My God! Just shut up and get on with it!!
Just a man helping out another man 🫶🏽 haha
Honestly, I appreciate this tip lol
😅
@@ttvgifted3171it worked. He noticed 😁
Your videos are great and you don't talk too much. Thanks for putting in all of the work to bring us these videos!
Video starts at 2:00
excellent video, i love it, ive just turned 18 and i have my dad's 26 yr old hero-honda splendor and i've been adjusting that screw without knowing anything, i used it to get different power and economy and also changed to a leaner mixture in winters without knowing, never touched the fuel screw, now imma fiddle with it
Bro, you're really good, you saved my life and I couldn't find your technique anywhere. 😊❤
My daughter's 98cc go kart was acting weird past half throttle. You helped me figure out that it was A. rich AF, B. The main jet was loose and C. How to tune it after i fixed B., which was causing A. It has never run this good and i couldn't have done it without you. I dont really care ehether you read the comment or not, but the least i can do is a like and comment. 🤙
I’m just getting into small engines and my father in law is a legit pro so I’m trying to get up to his speed so this was a huge help with filling in some knowledge I was missing!
First off- Thanks for the vid on tuning a carb with the Air Screw set-up i have exactly the same setup. And another note I like how you have a nickel to show how precised Air/fuel is dialed in that 6cyl monster, NICE JOB! WELL BALANCED MICHINE.⚙️🔧...
Whoever thinks this is too much talking is a person that impatiently thinks and listens too little.
I am in process of rebuilding and tuning a fleet of snowmobile carburetors and this is great information!
Well said
.i have been pulling my hair out trying to tune a mikuni 2 stroke carby,15 minutes on your site and its spot on !!! Mal from Australia.cheers mate
This is the best video of its type I've seen he is clear doesn't waste time on stuff u dont need and best of all it works .I will be watching plenty more of his videos . Keep up the good work
What i learnt from watching a fella tune his hemi 6 was u can buy a device called a colour tune which lets u see the colour of the spark cournel as the engine is running. Seems a great visual way to adjust air and fuel for optimum performance. Thanks for your video . Talking through your points is good
I have played with things like this since I was a kid. But I had no idea of the technical points of it, only that I could tell when it was running right. So, decades later I am playing with a Nibbi and Predator engine. I think it is easier to fatten it up and add air than to try to add fuel that isn't there. It is a good day to play with it more. This is a great video.
Hi Cody, Thanks for the wonderful video. I've been browsing for carburetor tuning instructions for some time, but it wasn't until I saw your video that I found exactly what I needed. As a newbie to motorcycle restoration, your comprehensive approach and method of explaining made it easy to understand and follow. Now, my '81 GL1100 is running great. I really appreciate it!
60 here. Just got my '74 iron head back from the shop. I've had it since 1999. And the whole time I could never tell what was hearing. They had it dailed in and I screwed it up again while I riding home. I was to embarrassed to ever ask for help. Now I kwon what to listen for. Thanks for doing these videos.
My first experience with small engines is a Zircon 150cc go kart. It was given to me because it didnt run. Without this video it still would not be running. This video was a huge help
THANK YOU SO MUCH! Rejetting my beta X-Trainer for 13k feet since we’re about to climb a mountain and I need to know how to adjust my carb correctly for when I’m there, and when I rejet for back home where we’re at sea level. Thanks for taking the time to explain this!
Good stuff bro I bet you're a kick ass mechanic. This was very helpful. I just installed a card on my bike and have to initially said the carb. There are not a lot of professionals like yourself making videos, most are by average dudes so it's refreshing to have a professional giving advice. Keep up the good work and once again thank you.
great video! Don't listen to folks who tell you that you talk too much. You explain things very well for people who want to learn. It's only after we learn what's up that it seems you're talking too much because we already know what you're saying. Keep it up bro, thanks for all your help!!
I was having a hard time tuning the carb on my early 2000's Honda Wave (a 100cc Southeast Asian moped that has its roots from the legendary supercub) after installing a bore-up kit. Your video helped a lot. You deserved my sub!
Best carb video hands down !! Great training piece for us novices to watch and understand carb concepts from a seasoned expert. There’s huge satisfaction in becoming more self reliant / self sufficient. Many thx !!!
Really helpful. I really dont have any idea how my uncle fine tunes my motorcycles. Now i know what i am looking for. ❤
i love how u explain correctly….people should listen well
okay I just had a little 22 scooter and I have watched so many videos I changed out my carburetor went with a bigger car never done any of this before in my life and I just watched TH-cam figured out how to do it but I watched so many videos and none of them exactly tell you how to do the the air fuel mixture your video I followed exactly and it's cranked up every time it idles perfect and it runs great thank you so much for your videos that you do.
This has helped a lot. I am running lean not rich. I was close to defeat and have nearly paid someone to sort it our but I'm on the right track now.
excelent tip, my dad taught me this as a 15 year old, great video
Don't listen to folks saying you talk too much, how stupid. We are here to listen to you talk. Near the end you seem to have set the screw to get the highest idle rather than using the technique the video is about. Thanks for all your video, great stuff.
You got a new subscriber here. Thank you. I'm currently in the middle of cleaning and rebuilding my son's carb and mine. This is going to be a huge help with dialing in my son's. Again, thank you.
Btw, great video.
Great information, and there's definitely NOT "too much talking". Thanks for the clarity and sharing!
Thank very much, you are the first who spoke logic into this situation. No you not talk to much, you explain things.
Thank you very much.
So good - thanks Cody! Just re-set the mixture of the Dellortos on my '75 Moto Guzzi. They were very lean as I had set them prior (per "conventional wisdom"), and I had all the symptoms you described. Now it warms quicker, idles lower, drops from a blip faster, and no flubby delivery from 2K to 4K rpm. Easy and fast to do too. Awesome!
🤯I was so confused and running too lean after I installed my carb for a gy6. This is THE BEST video on explaining. I know exactly what's going on and how to fix it. Thank you!!
I just bought a bike and I've been really struggling turning the carb after I cleaned it this video was very helpful thank you so much
First video of yours I've watched... your explanation of things should help the ones that doesn't know, if they say you talk to much, they obviously know most of everything or don't care about how it works! Good job fella!