That's awesome! Take your time going over it before the first ride and it'll be a great bike for you, I can't wait for this weather to turn so I can get back out on mine.
My valve adjustment experience has taught me to keep the feeling gage in the valve tappet while snugging down the lock nut. Great video and helpful for others. Thought I'd share a help too.
Thanks for doing this video, sounds like you have the correct specs. I've seen some videos where they're saying adjust to as much as 004 on the intake and .005 on the exhauast. Sorry I listened to them, now I have to readjust the right specs. Tapping got real loud, and bike was even backfiring. Strange thing, my manual doesn't show valve clearance.
No I don't believe the manual that comes with the hawk lists the specs if I recall correctly. The TT250 manual is a great reference, same engine except I believe the TT250 is counter balanced.
@@skydcontrol Thx for your reply! Major OPERATOR ERROR on my part, I ended up adjusting to .04 & .05 instead of .004 & .005. No wonder she wasn't burning the fuel. I ended up speaking with the US importer & distributor of all these bikes, and he told me his mechanic adjusts the valves to .007 & .009. Adjusted mine to .006 & .008 and she's running absolutely perfect! I don't believe any adjustment was needed to begin with, but it is good to know how to do this.
@@tomstrizak1117 don't feel too bad, it's a common mistake - haha. Ya some people like to run thier valves a little looser (a tappy valve is a happy valve). Just be aware it does accelerate valve train wear. Glad it's running good now though
Bonjour 0,06 et 0,08 millimètres ? Moi j'ai un zongshen Zs167fml-4 ...et je trouve aucune information sur ce type de moteur. Si quelqu'un a un document fiable ou une information@@tomstrizak1117
I was just refreshing myself on this to do my hawk's valves and I felt like I was listening to Dr. Ian Malcom teach me. You sound so much like him imo lol
Good info ,,, I ordered the EFI version last week ,,,, was gonna go carb , ( had mentioned this to you b4) but decided I wanted the forks and exhaust , and digital cluster ... figured for the price difference it was worth it ,,, still a bit nervous about the Chinese electronics with the efi , time will tell .. but this will def help to get things rolling ,,,appreciate ....
Ya, you'll have to keep me updated on it. I haven't heard of any real issues with the EFI. I considered getting the DLX but went carb for various reasons.
@@skydcontrol Hey ,,,, just a quick update on the efi ...... So far , so good 👍!! Have almost 700 miles on it now . Would be more if it ever stops raining here long enough ... 🙄 4 oil changes , 2 valve adjustments (my bad on 1st one) ,,, and it's running great ... changed to 17 tooth front sprocket . Want to do a 45 or 46 on the rear . I'm topping out at 62 mph around 7600 rpm or so ... Wanted to see how much it loosens up after break in .... Still a bit "buzzy" on top end ... maybe some new motor mounts , grips , etc ., will help with that ..... hope yours is running well still .... haven't really been keeping up with videos much lately .... Happy trails .......
@@danlovett3697 Glad to hear the EFI is holding up well. Mine's running good too, just did an oil change and another valve adjustment. The rain has been limiting how much I ride as well, but I got out for a few hours this past weekend.
@@danlovett3697 just bought a bd250-5 and I can’t even get it to idle..I changed the Tmap the spark plug the air box and even adjusted the idle and I checked the pump and injector and still can’t get it to idle ..it dies in 10 seconds..it’s a brand new bike and I had it for a week and can’t ride it ..do you think the valves are to tight or maybe change the oil ?
thank you for the video, 21 tbr7 sounds like my valves are ready to explode when i give it any gas, need to do this ASAP. brand new bike less than 10 miles
Alot of ticking? These CG engines have a noisy valve train anyway but ya sounds like they might be a bit loose. I'm gonna set mine again soon once I hit 100 miles or so
I appreciate the video man. I’ve got a 2020 Orion rxb with the zongshen engine. It’s got spark compression and is getting gas, Is it possible it needs the valves adjusted to start.
I know sometimes when the valves are tight it's harder to start. Mine were completely tight but I hadn't even tried to start it prior to doing this. Good luck!
Just a little help I did the valve adjustment and the bike runs smooth. But now my top speed has lower was 70 now 63-65. Its like I loss top end power and before my valves had no clearance.
Hmm, that's odd. Shouldn't really make a difference in top speed. Although if you fiddled with the carb at all while the valves were tight, it might need to be readjusted now.
There's no timing chain one these engines they are an overhead valve push rod style motor. It uses a dual lobe cam gear. It could be the valves if they are really tight it would have a hard time starting. The carb is your most likely suspect though, and don't rule out a bad spark plug.
I checked the valve clearance on my honda pcx for first time at 28000 miles and they were perfectly in spec. Meanwhile every chinese bike ive owned has tight valves (especially exhaust) after like 1000 miles lol
They all come tight right from the factory, from what I've seen. I'm not surprised that they would move around more either, the tolerance and quality control isn't as good. I just checked the clearance on my 1993 Kodiak 400 and only the exhaust valve was out, it was a little loose. I've never checked them and I've owned it for 10 years. LOL
@@skydcontrol I used the vid yesterday because I forgot how to get TDC 😆 but, I've only had m tbr7 for lest than a year. My second adjustment.. thanks for the video!
ya I wish I had measured them before I loosened them up but I didn't think of it because I was in head gasket swapping mode...haha. They were tight though, like screwed all the way down. I think it's just for faster assembly.
Hey amazing solid video man! I have 2 RPS hawk 250 enduros that probably have 300 miles on them each or less but I had no idea I had to adjust the valves before riding them. I bought all three of those things in your links and am going to adjust the valves before riding again because I fear I may be causing damage to them. My bike's engine gets extremely hot and the muffler gets red hot and I know that's not right. Anyways, thank you so much for providing actual correct information that I can use! I appreciate the video!
Thanks for the kind words! Valve adjustment is important for sure and many people don't know about it. Thats' where these china bikes fall short alot is in the assembly so they usually aren't properly adjusted. Good luck!
Engine sounds are super hard to diagnose without being there. Sounds like maybe just a ticking valve train. If you checked your valve lash and it's in spec then hard to say exactly but I like to start with decent oil and when you change the old check for excessive metal shavings or chunks.
Thanks! HAHA, ya well these engines are a bit noisy anyway and they'll take a fair amount of abuse. At least it runs good, just wear ear plugs, LOL - just kidding of course.
@@skydcontrol Luckily I only ran it for 5 mins or so after adjustment. Figured I messed up, went straight to TH-cam and found your video 🙌🏼 will be doing it again in the morn. Keep up the good work
Ha! I've been wondering the same thing until I watched this video! My bike does that tingling thing too and the muffler gets red hot.@@damianlafontaine38
I just my plug out and adjusted the valve lashes and put everything back together and now my bike won't fire. Is there something I can do to get it back to starting?
I'd double check the valve adjustment. If they're too tight the bike will start hard. Make sure you're using the T line not the F, and make sure you are on the compression stroke, not the intake stroke. Common mistake and it can make a big difference.
Welp when I went to go do my valves last night I got it done then today I wanted to see if it would run better I kicked it a couple times tried to bump start it and then kicked it a few more times and then I heard like the pistion or something in the engine making a loud noise so I tried to kick it again and then it’s like it’s stuck I can’t kick it nor bump start it so idk what happened
Probably going to have to pull it back apart and take a look, double check that you're at TDC on the compression stroke. There's a few different marks on the flywheel also so make sure you're using the correct one. Hopefully there's no damage, almost sounds like the piston made contact with the valves.
It turns over but won't start? Seems unrelated to the chain jamming. Unless what actually happened is the engine siezed which is why the chain jammed. But then it wouldn't crank over at all. Hard to say without more info or seeing it. Valves that are way out of adjustment can sometimes cause an engine to grenade itself......ask me how I know
Hey man, subcriber here. My question is what would happen if you were not actually on top dead center (compression stroke)? I did my valve adujstment and really took my time but I'm still paranoid I wasn't on the compression stroke/actual top dead center; checked a few off the list like making sure the valves were not moving up and down when reaching the ' T ' indication, also heard that you can wiggle the valves by hand if you're on top dead /compression stroke BUT I was only able to very very slightly; Adjusted with feeler gauges but my spark plug was in the whole time..so was just wondering how damaging is it to not be on the compression stroke then adjusting valves on exhaust stroke (before I eventually recheck my valves) by the way I noticed a sort of slight sputter sound coming from my carb (with pod filter) after valve adjusting and upping my main jet to a 115 because she wasn't starting with the stock 100main, my bike sounds way more like a dirt bike but with very steady rpm idle although I did switch to 86 fuel after using 90 for a while, may have an effect 🤔
It's actually a pretty common mistake for people to adjust the valves either on the exhaust stroke or not at TDC. It's usually evident right away you made the mistake as either the bike will start hard or sound like a tin can full of rocks. You can leave the spark plug in, taking it out just makes it easier to rotate the engine. Over time with the valves out of spec it could cause some excessive wear. If this was your first time adjusting them, and it's running good without excessive ticking (these engines are a bit noisy anyway) then personally I'd put some miles on it and then recheck the clearance. Just my $0.02 worth. I can't speak much on the pod filter because I'm not really a fan of pod filters and I'm not a carb guru. I can get it there but it takes me some trial and error. One thing to try would be going up a couple sizes on your slow jet and/or adjusting your air/fuel screw.
@@skydcontrol thanks for the reply! Yeah I'm a complete amateur. This is my first bike. I'll leave it as is for a little while as you said but it actually seems like I'm going to have to replace/up my slow jet because the fuel mixture screw is barely having an effect. Anyway thanks for the info!!
If you think you're running really lean it's best to change that jet sooner rather than later. A lean carb will hurt your engine more than a rich carb typically. If you find you have to choke it alot even on warm days - then you probably are lean. In the summer I can start my bike with no choke. Good luck, and you're welcome!
I actually have no idea, I never even started the engine prior to doing the head gasket. In my experience with other engines it does make a difference. An increase in compression is an increase in power output. I'd do it again for sure, the cost was minimal and it's not overly difficult.
low valve cleaarance with these chinese bike causes ticking noise and acceleration lag and vibration in mid RPMs. I had an experience with them. best thing to do first is valve adjustement and changing carb and air filter.
Absolutely, the stock carb is actually ok if you jet it properly but you have to cut slots in the little screws to get into the carb. Not a huge deal but I opted for a pumper carb anyway.
It could be the valves are a bit loose so they're ticking. Some of these engines are a bit noisy anyway and tbh my DRZ400 made a racket but was perfectly fine. I assume it's a 4 stroke, it would be worth checking your clearance and making sure it's in tolerance. Should be done periodically anyway.
Don’t Skip Checking The Piston Downstroke I Think Mine Wasn’t Up When I Lined Up To The T And It Wouldn’t Start 😂 Once I Made Sure The Piston Was Up I Adjusted The Valves Now It Starts With One Kick 👌
@@skydcontrol Great video, thanks for sharing. Did you have to rotate the motor back to its original coordinates after the valves were adjusted? Or did you leave it lined up at the “T”?
Once you set it at Top dead center, you can do your adjustments and then just put it all back together and start it up. no need to change the position of the engine.
I mean, it's hard to say without hearing it. These engines are a bit noisy anyway. And the saying goes a tappy valve is a happy valve, although I don't fully agree. If you're too far on the loose side you'll get excessive valve train wear. If it seems excessive what you can do is double check your clearances and maybe inspect for wear.
@@MrMagican250 I like to aim for .003" intake and .004" exhaust. Anything between .002" and .005" is "safe" just make sure you are TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke and using inches not mm on the feeler gauge. Easy mistakes to make
COUNTER Clockwise (edited), thought I showed it in the video - this is one of my early videos. You can also put the bike on a stand, put it in gear and spin the rear tire. More than 1 way to skin a cat
Clockwise… are you 100 percent sure… I was told counter clockwise.. would that be why my bike won’t start.. cause I spun it counter clockwise to gap the valves????
Oh crap, no I meant CCW, glad you caught that. If you want to be sure just put the bike in 2nd gear and rotate the rear tire. Make sure you are on the compression stroke when you adjust the valves. That's a VERY common issue people have and will cause incorrect adjustment if you are on the intake stroke.
i am a retired motorcycle mechanic and thats the best way to adjust the valves same way as i would i just got the hawk dlx efi good luck so far
Awesome, I appreciate the feedback! Enjoy that DLX
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! I ordered my hawk yesterday, and I'm so excited! It should be a great learning experience for me.
That's awesome! Take your time going over it before the first ride and it'll be a great bike for you, I can't wait for this weather to turn so I can get back out on mine.
My valve adjustment experience has taught me to keep the feeling gage in the valve tappet while snugging down the lock nut. Great video and helpful for others. Thought I'd share a help too.
ya, it can be tricky to tighten the lock nut without closing up your gap
Hold the top of your adjuster with a set of pliers while you tighten the nut. Thanks for the info just seems like a solution for having to readjust.
There's actually a cool little tool that does that for you, I might invest in one at some point.
Thanks for doing this video, sounds like you have the correct specs. I've seen some videos where they're saying adjust to as much as 004 on the intake and .005 on the exhauast. Sorry I listened to them, now I have to readjust the right specs. Tapping got real loud, and bike was even backfiring. Strange thing, my manual doesn't show valve clearance.
No I don't believe the manual that comes with the hawk lists the specs if I recall correctly. The TT250 manual is a great reference, same engine except I believe the TT250 is counter balanced.
@@skydcontrol Thx for your reply! Major OPERATOR ERROR on my part, I ended up adjusting to .04 & .05 instead of .004 & .005. No wonder she wasn't burning the fuel. I ended up speaking with the US importer & distributor of all these bikes, and he told me his mechanic adjusts the valves to .007 & .009. Adjusted mine to .006 & .008 and she's running absolutely perfect! I don't believe any adjustment was needed to begin with, but it is good to know how to do this.
@@tomstrizak1117 don't feel too bad, it's a common mistake - haha. Ya some people like to run thier valves a little looser (a tappy valve is a happy valve). Just be aware it does accelerate valve train wear. Glad it's running good now though
Bonjour 0,06 et 0,08 millimètres ? Moi j'ai un zongshen Zs167fml-4 ...et je trouve aucune information sur ce type de moteur. Si quelqu'un a un document fiable ou une information@@tomstrizak1117
I was just refreshing myself on this to do my hawk's valves and I felt like I was listening to Dr. Ian Malcom teach me. You sound so much like him imo lol
Haha, well thanks. I can only hope to be as cool as Dr. Malcom
Good info ,,, I ordered the EFI version last week ,,,, was gonna go carb , ( had mentioned this to you b4) but decided I wanted the forks and exhaust , and digital cluster ... figured for the price difference it was worth it ,,, still a bit nervous about the Chinese electronics with the efi , time will tell .. but this will def help to get things rolling ,,,appreciate ....
Ya, you'll have to keep me updated on it. I haven't heard of any real issues with the EFI. I considered getting the DLX but went carb for various reasons.
@@skydcontrol Hey ,,,, just a quick update on the efi ...... So far , so good 👍!! Have almost 700 miles on it now . Would be more if it ever stops raining here long enough ... 🙄 4 oil changes , 2 valve adjustments (my bad on 1st one) ,,, and it's running great ... changed to 17 tooth front sprocket . Want to do a 45 or 46 on the rear . I'm topping out at 62 mph around 7600 rpm or so ... Wanted to see how much it loosens up after break in .... Still a bit "buzzy" on top end ... maybe some new motor mounts , grips , etc ., will help with that ..... hope yours is running well still .... haven't really been keeping up with videos much lately .... Happy trails .......
@@danlovett3697 Glad to hear the EFI is holding up well. Mine's running good too, just did an oil change and another valve adjustment. The rain has been limiting how much I ride as well, but I got out for a few hours this past weekend.
@@danlovett3697 just bought a bd250-5 and I can’t even get it to idle..I changed the Tmap the spark plug the air box and even adjusted the idle and I checked the pump and injector and still can’t get it to idle ..it dies in 10 seconds..it’s a brand new bike and I had it for a week and can’t ride it ..do you think the valves are to tight or maybe change the oil ?
thank you for the video, 21 tbr7 sounds like my valves are ready to explode when i give it any gas, need to do this ASAP. brand new bike less than 10 miles
Alot of ticking? These CG engines have a noisy valve train anyway but ya sounds like they might be a bit loose. I'm gonna set mine again soon once I hit 100 miles or so
I appreciate the video man. I’ve got a 2020 Orion rxb with the zongshen engine. It’s got spark compression and is getting gas, Is it possible it needs the valves adjusted to start.
I know sometimes when the valves are tight it's harder to start. Mine were completely tight but I hadn't even tried to start it prior to doing this. Good luck!
Just a little help I did the valve adjustment and the bike runs smooth. But now my top speed has lower was 70 now 63-65. Its like I loss top end power and before my valves had no clearance.
Hmm, that's odd. Shouldn't really make a difference in top speed. Although if you fiddled with the carb at all while the valves were tight, it might need to be readjusted now.
Great video. Mine were so tight i had to use a wrench to loosen them.
Thanks! ya it's crazy isn't it, I think to save time they just spin them down tight at the factory.
My hawk 250 won’t start 😞 I think it’s the valves or the timing chain or the carb
There's no timing chain one these engines they are an overhead valve push rod style motor. It uses a dual lobe cam gear. It could be the valves if they are really tight it would have a hard time starting. The carb is your most likely suspect though, and don't rule out a bad spark plug.
@@skydcontrol so just adjust the values haven’t done that yet?
@@joshfit5777 I would start there for sure. I adjusted mine before I ever started teh bike and they were really tight.
My tbr7 2019 , they were still so tight after loosen the nut I had to get a wrench to break the adjusters ... 🤔
Wow! ya it's crazy, just goes to show you how important it is on these to do a thorough setup.
I checked the valve clearance on my honda pcx for first time at 28000 miles and they were perfectly in spec. Meanwhile every chinese bike ive owned has tight valves (especially exhaust) after like 1000 miles lol
They all come tight right from the factory, from what I've seen. I'm not surprised that they would move around more either, the tolerance and quality control isn't as good. I just checked the clearance on my 1993 Kodiak 400 and only the exhaust valve was out, it was a little loose. I've never checked them and I've owned it for 10 years. LOL
Where'd you get the music? I was wanting more of that. 🤘
haha, wow this was one of my early videos...I think it was just royalty free available through youtube.
@@skydcontrol I used the vid yesterday because I forgot how to get TDC 😆 but, I've only had m tbr7 for lest than a year. My second adjustment.. thanks for the video!
@@michaelkrahn9487 Awesome! Glad it helped
I did mines at 3500 miles after break in is that bad?
Not necessarily, I wouldn't recommend it but they weren't necessarily out of spec from the start. Mine were, they were very tight.
@@skydcontrol crazy tight
@@MrMagican250 did it start hard? That's usually a symptom of tight valves.
@@skydcontrol it was putting like it will cut on then cut off
Nice walk through, however I still haven't seen a video that shows a correct original valve measurement inspection before loosening them.
ya I wish I had measured them before I loosened them up but I didn't think of it because I was in head gasket swapping mode...haha. They were tight though, like screwed all the way down. I think it's just for faster assembly.
My 250dlx with 171mi before adjusting has absolutely zero lash
@@skydcontrol Maybe they do that to keep the valves from tapping so loud?
Hey amazing solid video man! I have 2 RPS hawk 250 enduros that probably have 300 miles on them each or less but I had no idea I had to adjust the valves before riding them. I bought all three of those things in your links and am going to adjust the valves before riding again because I fear I may be causing damage to them. My bike's engine gets extremely hot and the muffler gets red hot and I know that's not right. Anyways, thank you so much for providing actual correct information that I can use! I appreciate the video!
Thanks for the kind words! Valve adjustment is important for sure and many people don't know about it. Thats' where these china bikes fall short alot is in the assembly so they usually aren't properly adjusted. Good luck!
Your bikes exhaust is getting red hot due to running lean, need to re jet stock carb or swap a nibbi carb onto it.
My hawk has a ticking sound any solutions. It’s on the right side of engine
Engine sounds are super hard to diagnose without being there. Sounds like maybe just a ticking valve train. If you checked your valve lash and it's in spec then hard to say exactly but I like to start with decent oil and when you change the old check for excessive metal shavings or chunks.
Great video brotha! I was one of the idiots that did .005” …… she runs great but sounds like a tin can full of rocks 😂
Thanks!
Thanks! HAHA, ya well these engines are a bit noisy anyway and they'll take a fair amount of abuse. At least it runs good, just wear ear plugs, LOL - just kidding of course.
@@skydcontrol Luckily I only ran it for 5 mins or so after adjustment. Figured I messed up, went straight to TH-cam and found your video 🙌🏼 will be doing it again in the morn. Keep up the good work
How did you fix the tingling noise
@@damianlafontaine38 readjusted valves to the proper measurements (according to this video) and it quieted down 👌🏼
Ha! I've been wondering the same thing until I watched this video! My bike does that tingling thing too and the muffler gets red hot.@@damianlafontaine38
I just my plug out and adjusted the valve lashes and put everything back together and now my bike won't fire. Is there something I can do to get it back to starting?
I'd double check the valve adjustment. If they're too tight the bike will start hard. Make sure you're using the T line not the F, and make sure you are on the compression stroke, not the intake stroke. Common mistake and it can make a big difference.
👍👍👍
Welp when I went to go do my valves last night I got it done then today I wanted to see if it would run better I kicked it a couple times tried to bump start it and then kicked it a few more times and then I heard like the pistion or something in the engine making a loud noise so I tried to kick it again and then it’s like it’s stuck I can’t kick it nor bump start it so idk what happened
Probably going to have to pull it back apart and take a look, double check that you're at TDC on the compression stroke. There's a few different marks on the flywheel also so make sure you're using the correct one. Hopefully there's no damage, almost sounds like the piston made contact with the valves.
@@skydcontrol welp 😂 my exauhst valve broke sadly that’s alright it’s an easy fix thank you 🙏
@@joshfit5777 how did it break let me kno so I don’t make this mistake
I have a hawk and the chain jam in the front sprocket and I fix it back and it did not start after what u think could be the problem
It turns over but won't start? Seems unrelated to the chain jamming. Unless what actually happened is the engine siezed which is why the chain jammed. But then it wouldn't crank over at all. Hard to say without more info or seeing it. Valves that are way out of adjustment can sometimes cause an engine to grenade itself......ask me how I know
Hey man, subcriber here. My question is what would happen if you were not actually on top dead center (compression stroke)?
I did my valve adujstment and really took my time but I'm still paranoid I wasn't on the compression stroke/actual top dead center; checked a few off the list like making sure the valves were not moving up and down when reaching the ' T ' indication, also heard that you can wiggle the valves by hand if you're on top dead /compression stroke BUT I was only able to very very slightly; Adjusted with feeler gauges but my spark plug was in the whole time..so was just wondering how damaging is it to not be on the compression stroke then adjusting valves on exhaust stroke (before I eventually recheck my valves)
by the way I noticed a sort of slight sputter sound coming from my carb (with pod filter) after valve adjusting and upping my main jet to a 115 because she wasn't starting with the stock 100main, my bike sounds way more like a dirt bike but with very steady rpm idle although I did switch to 86 fuel after using 90 for a while, may have an effect 🤔
It's actually a pretty common mistake for people to adjust the valves either on the exhaust stroke or not at TDC. It's usually evident right away you made the mistake as either the bike will start hard or sound like a tin can full of rocks. You can leave the spark plug in, taking it out just makes it easier to rotate the engine. Over time with the valves out of spec it could cause some excessive wear. If this was your first time adjusting them, and it's running good without excessive ticking (these engines are a bit noisy anyway) then personally I'd put some miles on it and then recheck the clearance. Just my $0.02 worth.
I can't speak much on the pod filter because I'm not really a fan of pod filters and I'm not a carb guru. I can get it there but it takes me some trial and error. One thing to try would be going up a couple sizes on your slow jet and/or adjusting your air/fuel screw.
@@skydcontrol thanks for the reply! Yeah I'm a complete amateur. This is my first bike. I'll leave it as is for a little while as you said but it actually seems like I'm going to have to replace/up my slow jet because the fuel mixture screw is barely having an effect.
Anyway thanks for the info!!
If you think you're running really lean it's best to change that jet sooner rather than later. A lean carb will hurt your engine more than a rich carb typically. If you find you have to choke it alot even on warm days - then you probably are lean. In the summer I can start my bike with no choke. Good luck, and you're welcome!
Can you tell me if has tubed or tubeless wheels?
The tires do have tubes
So, could you tell any difference with the smaller head gasket? Was it worth the effort?
I actually have no idea, I never even started the engine prior to doing the head gasket. In my experience with other engines it does make a difference. An increase in compression is an increase in power output. I'd do it again for sure, the cost was minimal and it's not overly difficult.
low valve cleaarance with these chinese bike causes ticking noise and acceleration lag and vibration in mid RPMs. I had an experience with them. best thing to do first is valve adjustement and changing carb and air filter.
Absolutely, the stock carb is actually ok if you jet it properly but you have to cut slots in the little screws to get into the carb. Not a huge deal but I opted for a pumper carb anyway.
Please keep doing videos!!! Any small stuff helps
I have a few things lined up, I'm off to Laconia Bike week today! I think my next project will be a rear rack made from a cutting board.
I have a Chinese bike 125 dirt bike I always hear tic tic the more I rev up the more it gets louder. Is that valves?
It could be the valves are a bit loose so they're ticking. Some of these engines are a bit noisy anyway and tbh my DRZ400 made a racket but was perfectly fine. I assume it's a 4 stroke, it would be worth checking your clearance and making sure it's in tolerance. Should be done periodically anyway.
Don’t Skip Checking The Piston Downstroke I Think Mine Wasn’t Up When I Lined Up To The T And It Wouldn’t Start 😂 Once I Made Sure The Piston Was Up I Adjusted The Valves Now It Starts With One Kick 👌
For sure, gotta make sure you're on the right stroke. Glad you got it sorted!
This was an awesome video and exactly answered my question.
Awesome! I'm glad it helped out
Appreciate your humor! Great video! 👍
Thanks! Hopefully some new stuff coming soon
Do u need to empty the oil first my crank shaft case is full of oil
No need to empty the oil, and make sure the engine is absolutely cold. I typically let it sit over night.
@@skydcontrol Great video, thanks for sharing. Did you have to rotate the motor back to its original coordinates after the valves were adjusted? Or did you leave it lined up at the “T”?
Once you set it at Top dead center, you can do your adjustments and then just put it all back together and start it up. no need to change the position of the engine.
@@skydcontrol This was helpful, I hope to see more videos about the hawk 250. Thanks
sir how about z200s of motorstar.....
Thanks for the help!
You bet!!
Yeah I just got 200cc engine and yeah they had that shit ran down with the impact
haha, ya it's quicker I guess - time is money
I did my valves today and I still hear the ticking
I mean, it's hard to say without hearing it. These engines are a bit noisy anyway. And the saying goes a tappy valve is a happy valve, although I don't fully agree. If you're too far on the loose side you'll get excessive valve train wear. If it seems excessive what you can do is double check your clearances and maybe inspect for wear.
@@skydcontrol I’m finna redo it now i don’t need that to happen
Wat specs should I do for intake and exhaust
@@MrMagican250 I like to aim for .003" intake and .004" exhaust. Anything between .002" and .005" is "safe" just make sure you are TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke and using inches not mm on the feeler gauge. Easy mistakes to make
@@skydcontrol oh wow so not the mm feel gauge
Hey boss you didn't even use the valve tool you we're promoting lol
haha, no I was just saying they make one that makes it easier. You don't NEED it.
It's all good✌️
You know how the Chinese burn rubber on a motorcycle? They put rubber washers on the exhaust pipe pipe screws lol
I did .0025 kiss the intake and hug the exhaust....😏
Nice, I tend to err on the side of slightly tappy rather than tight but these have actually held position quite well so far.
Why not just tell us which way to turn the ratchet.. why ????? Seriously… my kick start has been stripped since the day I got the bike… soooooo…
COUNTER Clockwise (edited), thought I showed it in the video - this is one of my early videos. You can also put the bike on a stand, put it in gear and spin the rear tire. More than 1 way to skin a cat
Clockwise… are you 100 percent sure… I was told counter clockwise.. would that be why my bike won’t start.. cause I spun it counter clockwise to gap the valves????
Oh crap, no I meant CCW, glad you caught that. If you want to be sure just put the bike in 2nd gear and rotate the rear tire. Make sure you are on the compression stroke when you adjust the valves. That's a VERY common issue people have and will cause incorrect adjustment if you are on the intake stroke.