Thank you very much!! I’m extremely happy when I hear my videos are doing what they’re intended to do!! My goals to make things as easy as possible for someone to pick a part they’re interested in or to learn how to do something they have been intimidated to attempt or thought they couldn’t do so very much appreciated!!
I did mine this morning and found the intake at .005 and the exhaust at 003. I put the intake to .0025 and left the exhaust at .003. Thanks for the video about how to do it. Wasn't as hard as I thought.
No it’s definitely not a bad job it just sounds complicated….I’m really surprised you had any valve clearance typically they’re just rock solid as tight as possible
I’m extremely happy I could help you out my 500 mile review video has links in the description for every part available you’ll ever need to make the upgrades & modifications to set your bike up how you want & keep it running strong for years to come!
Also check out our group called the chonda riders on Facebook for any & all information I make sure nothing that gets posted on my TH-cam or in my group is wrong! As that’s potentially harmful to someone’s bike & they’re overall safety!
great video. make sure your viewer knows which feeler gauge they are using. metric spec on my gap on both intake and exhaust is .05 mm. if I were using inch gauge it would be .002 inch.
Hey I really need your advice and help. A response would be greatly appreciated. I recently upgraded my carb to a nibbi pe28 and an aftermarket exhaust. So tomorrow I wanna set the valve clearance before I start it up for the first time. Just to have it be as smooth of a start up as possible. First question is do I need to torque those 10mm nuts down and if I do what is the specs And two can I do this and reuse the same gasket and do this without needing anything but tools
Your extremely welcome! Just trying to be a solid accurate base if information for all my China riders please remember to like & subscribe for all future content…getting ready to do a Honda swing arm tutorial Honda fork swap as well and a nice one on cams & ported heads!
Absolutely thanks brother! That’s basically the same way I’m building this one &!Some of the best internal work you can do your already following the right path I just got my cam here along with the roller rockers waiting on the head for porting then I’m gonna use the tt250 head gaskets they’re a little thinner so it’s a additional bump in compression & add in a 4 degree timing advance key so everything’s almost here and ready so I can get it all done at once look forward to seeing how it turns out for you!
@@Jboost412 great video, did you have to rotate the motor back to its original coordinates after the valves were adjusted? Or did you leave it lined up at the “T”?
Hey brotha. I was trying to adjust my TBR7 valves but I accidentally snapped the adjustment screw. I been looking for the valve adjustment screw replacement left and right but I honestly don't know the measurements of the screws or where to find them. Any idea where can I find them or at least a similar measurement.
Hey sorry to hear that happened!! Should be able to buy a new set from eBay look up cg250 or even cg125 & add something like lash adjuster or valve lash adjuster they should pop up for you!!
Off hand sorry I don’t have a link for them I forgot to mention you could also likely buy them locally from a Honda dealer if you ask for a CG125 or even a cb250 they should all be the same…take the one that’s still good to compare it against the Honda replacement but that should work fine for you!!
Ticking on a CG based bike is good that’s no problem at all….now if it’s ticking like a broken sowing machine you may have adjusted them on the exhaust stroke by accident
I always check to see where they stand at a general service of around 500 miles when I change my oil & if needed adjust the lash if it’s not necessary slap the valve cover back on & go!! You can Check every thousand as well..do you find on your bike one gets tighter then the other?
@@Jboost412 Actually I’m not doing it for checkup however my bike has a problem, so far I checked the carburetor, electricity and the muffler and all didn’t help. And I haven’t checked the valves yet.
So your valve lash should always be within spec as part if having your bike run correctly-at it’s best-or at all but what is the problem you have specifically with your bike as of now?
@@Jboost412 It is a problem I’ve noticed from a long time but I had no idea what it is all I know was feeling that like the engine does not compressed tightly or like the air to gas ratio is more a bit. I always think it’s a carburetor issue. Until one day it stopped, while I’m riding it, like when it run out of gasoline but I was sure there was a gas. I had to go to the gas station and fill it but the problem precised. I started with checking the carburetor inlet valve needle because the bike when stops it stops like running out of gas, it jerks then stops, may the float stuck clogging the gas to get to the carburetor. And before that I’ve changed the spark plug. Then I decided to change the coil after I found the same symptoms of bad coil, starts easily but after five minutes after it got heated it stops, but the technician of bike electricity said there’s no problem with my coil after he checked it. I came back to the bike technitian and said it is valve timing then. I came home and started doing it myself but ridiculous thing happened 🤦♂️, while I’m setting the piston to the TDC.. I also remember after I made the changes I mentioned the bike stopped jerking and it can run for long as it runs but I can’t stop my hand from the throttle otherwise it will stop e.i. the bike run on pilot jet, it needs more power to continue running
Started following your channel as I was looking for a TBR7 owner and found you! Great in-site. I'm in Burbank California but will actually take it to Michigan to register. I'm investing in the Nibbi Carb . what jets do you recommend? Please keep your content coming
Congratulations on the bike! I’m my video about carburetor tuning you’ll find a link for main & pilot jets that I recommend along with the intake you’ll need to use the carb on these bikes shoot me your average elevation & I’ll get you a baseline for your jetting to start with that’ll get you where you need to be for a little fine tuning
@@Jboost412 thankyou so much. I'll be in 602 then 932. I know that sounds crazy but I'll be riding in both places. By the way I'm buying the knock off Chinese carb not the nibbi for now. Thank you for your knowledge. :)
Absolutely! Im happy to be able to use TH-cam to help! That’s why I’m glad we can use this to get In Touch with people I other wise would never have been able to take to! The jfg racing pz30 is an awesome carb matched up with the jet kit in the description…your jetting stock should fall in around a 115 main & a 36 pilot with your fuel mixture around 1.75 turns out should be your baseline to start with
Don’t get too frustrated whenever it comes out of the crate for the first time…it will run like crap!! always remember the valves are set way too tight it has shipping oil in the motor & the carbs well it’s garbage it can be used if needed with a main jet change but how they run after a little bit of effort is a night & day difference from when they show up I definitely look forward to seeing how it turns out….pro tip seems lately they have been showing up with the rear foot brake lever to Master cylinder clevis missing & the big steering stem nut on top of the triple tree has been known to be loose make sure you check it as well torque specs 55ft lbs
No sir I definitely don’t recommend those being held on with loctite…I honestly don’t have anything on my bike held together using the stuff I just tighten everything up to where it should be & haven’t had any issues like that as of yet 🤞🤞
Do you have to loosen the 2 gold bolts on top aswell? I'm at the top with the T&line lined up checked the piston and its still super tight. I have the bolts on the values almost off. Sorry about deleting the other post did see you had commented already and felt dumb for asking.
For the valve lash adjustment once it’s at TDC compression stroke you’ll loosen up the 10mm that Holds the lash adjuster in place and then back off actual threaded part until you can fit your .003 feelers gauge in between the top of the valve stem & bottom of the lash adjuster tighten up the 10mm you loosened and repeat on the other adjuster you’ll be good to go after that
And no questions a dumb question sir that’s why I started a TH-cam channel & run one of the largest China bike groups on Facebook I wanna make sure everyone gets the help they need to enjoy the machine they have
@@Jboost412 thank you very much for taking the time out of your day and helping brotha. I also messaged you via FB messenger. If I need more help I'll PM ya on there. Thanks!!
Should the rocker arm on the exhaust valve be able to move freely? when I am at top dead center, the intake rocker arm is stiff with a tiny amount of play like yours have here, but my exhaust valve rocker arm moves a couple cm it seems.
Good way to make sure your top dead center with the timing mark on the flywheel aligned is to pull the spark plug and make sure the piston is in fact up…if so it sounds like one may need to be slightly looser or it’s spot on while your exhaust valve sounds too loose or possibly the pushrod is out of place depending on how much movement/free play it has
@@Jboost412 i never did the initial 500 mile adjustment on the valve lash so i’ve been riding it apparently very tight this entire time. i’m around 2500 miles now. i did the adjustment at .007mm for both lashes but i don’t know if it’s running right.
not sure what it should sound like. but tomorrow morning i’m going to open it back up and check the clearances again and get them as close to .007 as i can. i think there may be damage to surface of the threaded adjusters shaft that’s connected to the rocker. it doesn’t sit flush it looks worn at an angle to the surface of the rest of the valve train
So I always recommend that one checks them immediately when the bikes new since even if you buy the bike assembled like some dealers do they still seem to come too loose or too tight….but beyond that I tell people to check them again every 500-750 miles since not just the Clones but the real Cg Honda motors always suffered from the valve lash getting tight after say a thousand miles tops so it’s definitely a good idea to constantly check in on the lash sometimes after 750 they’re still spot on sometimes you’ll find them rock solid…just a design issue but even with the situation your in where they’ve been tight for sometime usually an adjustment is all it takes to get it running correctly again now that the valves can open & close the correct amount again at the correct times so odds are in your favor at least I’ve seen people do similar things and simply readjust & keep on going so do let me know how it works out for ya!
Be careful the piston up is not an indicator of it being correct. Remember TDC happens twice it happens on both the compression and exhaust stroke. On the compression stroke both valves should have a bit of play but if they have been adjusted tight it is sometimes tough to tell. the finger in the plug hole is pretty good method or get a cheap compression gauge makes it easy.
No your carb shouldn’t need adjustment after a valve lash adjustment it it’s extremely necessary to adjust them before you start riding as the valves can’t close all the way things get bent damaged etc etc
Thanks & good luck with the bike once they’re dialed in and setup for you definitely a great buy! I’ve beat mine up in the woods without any issues at all
@@Jboost412 at the end of the vid around 15:30 what is that long bolt with the point on it. That looks like it goes down to that cap that u didnt take off
That’s just an example to verify your piston is up at top dead center if it’s not the screwdriver won’t have anything to hit off of & you know you didn’t rotate the motor enough since the first valve adjustment can be a little tricky with them being so tight usually
My word, thank you so much for going slow and steady. So much easier to follow for a newbie
No better than that. So patiently, very clear, you said it all, . Very informative.
Thanks a lot
Thank you very much!! I’m extremely happy when I hear my videos are doing what they’re intended to do!! My goals to make things as easy as possible for someone to pick a part they’re interested in or to learn how to do something they have been intimidated to attempt or thought they couldn’t do so very much appreciated!!
I did mine this morning and found the intake at .005 and the exhaust at 003. I put the intake to .0025 and left the exhaust at .003. Thanks for the video about how to do it. Wasn't as hard as I thought.
No it’s definitely not a bad job it just sounds complicated….I’m really surprised you had any valve clearance typically they’re just rock solid as tight as possible
Just got my tbr7 today. This video helped a lot thanks!
I’m extremely happy I could help you out my 500 mile review video has links in the description for every part available you’ll ever need to make the upgrades & modifications to set your bike up how you want & keep it running strong for years to come!
Also check out our group called the chonda riders on Facebook for any & all information I make sure nothing that gets posted on my TH-cam or in my group is wrong! As that’s potentially harmful to someone’s bike & they’re overall safety!
great video. make sure your viewer knows which feeler gauge they are using. metric spec on my gap on both intake and exhaust is .05 mm. if I were using inch gauge it would be .002 inch.
Thanks! And absolutely! I tried putting it Into the videos description as well as catching all 3 gauges I recommend using the best I can on video
So you can line it up to tdc and still not be lined up right? I think thats why after I got done mine wont even fire up.
Hey I really need your advice and help. A response would be greatly appreciated. I recently upgraded my carb to a nibbi pe28 and an aftermarket exhaust. So tomorrow I wanna set the valve clearance before I start it up for the first time. Just to have it be as smooth of a start up as possible.
First question is do I need to torque those 10mm nuts down and if I do what is the specs
And two can I do this and reuse the same gasket and do this without needing anything but tools
TDC is easy to find if you just hold finger over spark plug hole , spin engine slowly until air pushes out and go to the next mark.
Got a question does your tbr7 have a hose running from the left side tank underneath the bike ? Mine does me it’s leaking gas. If anyone can help
Does ur tbr7 have a black hose coming from the left side of the tank under the seat almost leaking gas?? Anyone can help???
Thank you, I was wondering how to do this. Great video.
Your extremely welcome! Just trying to be a solid accurate base if information for all my China riders please remember to like & subscribe for all future content…getting ready to do a Honda swing arm tutorial Honda fork swap as well and a nice one on cams & ported heads!
Getting ready to do cam, just got finished porting head, waiting on cam arms. Will be following, keep up the great work!
Absolutely thanks brother! That’s basically the same way I’m building this one &!Some of the best internal work you can do your already following the right path I just got my cam here along with the roller rockers waiting on the head for porting then I’m gonna use the tt250 head gaskets they’re a little thinner so it’s a additional bump in compression & add in a 4 degree timing advance key so everything’s almost here and ready so I can get it all done at once look forward to seeing how it turns out for you!
@@Jboost412 great video, did you have to rotate the motor back to its original coordinates after the valves were adjusted? Or did you leave it lined up at the “T”?
Good question but once they’re adjusted your ready to start it back up and go
Awesome man I just got a tbr7 brand new and a Bashan raven for 600 im bout to doo this to both of em
Hey brotha. I was trying to adjust my TBR7 valves but I accidentally snapped the adjustment screw. I been looking for the valve adjustment screw replacement left and right but I honestly don't know the measurements of the screws or where to find them. Any idea where can I find them or at least a similar measurement.
Hey sorry to hear that happened!! Should be able to buy a new set from eBay look up cg250 or even cg125 & add something like lash adjuster or valve lash adjuster they should pop up for you!!
@@Jboost412 do you have a link on ebay that I can identify it easier?
Off hand sorry I don’t have a link for them I forgot to mention you could also likely buy them locally from a Honda dealer if you ask for a CG125 or even a cb250 they should all be the same…take the one that’s still good to compare it against the Honda replacement but that should work fine for you!!
When you adjusted the valves did you have any ticking noises
I did but not sure what’s going on
Ticking on a CG based bike is good that’s no problem at all….now if it’s ticking like a broken sowing machine you may have adjusted them on the exhaust stroke by accident
Should I adjust both of them if I need to adjust only the intake valve-tappet clearance, the most commonly need to be adjusted??
I always check to see where they stand at a general service of around 500 miles when I change my oil & if needed adjust the lash if it’s not necessary slap the valve cover back on & go!! You can Check every thousand as well..do you find on your bike one gets tighter then the other?
@@Jboost412
Actually I’m not doing it for checkup however my bike has a problem, so far I checked the carburetor, electricity and the muffler and all didn’t help. And I haven’t checked the valves yet.
So your valve lash should always be within spec as part if having your bike run correctly-at it’s best-or at all but what is the problem you have specifically with your bike as of now?
@@Jboost412
It is a problem I’ve noticed from a long time but I had no idea what it is all I know was feeling that like the engine does not compressed tightly or like the air to gas ratio is more a bit. I always think it’s a carburetor issue. Until one day it stopped, while I’m riding it, like when it run out of gasoline but I was sure there was a gas. I had to go to the gas station and fill it but the problem precised.
I started with checking the carburetor inlet valve needle because the bike when stops it stops like running out of gas, it jerks then stops, may the float stuck clogging the gas to get to the carburetor. And before that I’ve changed the spark plug. Then I decided to change the coil after I found the same symptoms of bad coil, starts easily but after five minutes after it got heated it stops, but the technician of bike electricity said there’s no problem with my coil after he checked it. I came back to the bike technitian and said it is valve timing then. I came home and started doing it myself but ridiculous thing happened 🤦♂️, while I’m setting the piston to the TDC..
I also remember after I made the changes I mentioned the bike stopped jerking and it can run for long as it runs but I can’t stop my hand from the throttle otherwise it will stop e.i. the bike run on pilot jet, it needs more power to continue running
Started following your channel as I was looking for a TBR7 owner and found you! Great in-site. I'm in Burbank California but will actually take it to Michigan to register. I'm investing in the Nibbi Carb . what jets do you recommend? Please keep your content coming
Congratulations on the bike! I’m my video about carburetor tuning you’ll find a link for main & pilot jets that I recommend along with the intake you’ll need to use the carb on these bikes shoot me your average elevation & I’ll get you a baseline for your jetting to start with that’ll get you where you need to be for a little fine tuning
@@Jboost412 thankyou so much. I'll be in 602 then 932. I know that sounds crazy but I'll be riding in both places. By the way I'm buying the knock off Chinese carb not the nibbi for now. Thank you for your knowledge. :)
Absolutely! Im happy to be able to use TH-cam to help! That’s why I’m glad we can use this to get In Touch with people I other wise would never have been able to take to! The jfg racing pz30 is an awesome carb matched up with the jet kit in the description…your jetting stock should fall in around a 115 main & a 36 pilot with your fuel mixture around 1.75 turns out should be your baseline to start with
@@Jboost412 sounds like a winner. Bike suppose to arrive by weeks end. I'll let you know how it runs. Keep posting your great vids.
Don’t get too frustrated whenever it comes out of the crate for the first time…it will run like crap!! always remember the valves are set way too tight it has shipping oil in the motor & the carbs well it’s garbage it can be used if needed with a main jet change but how they run after a little bit of effort is a night & day difference from when they show up I definitely look forward to seeing how it turns out….pro tip seems lately they have been showing up with the rear foot brake lever to Master cylinder clevis missing & the big steering stem nut on top of the triple tree has been known to be loose make sure you check it as well torque specs 55ft lbs
You don't recommend blue Loctite on your retainer nuts do you?
No sir I definitely don’t recommend those being held on with loctite…I honestly don’t have anything on my bike held together using the stuff I just tighten everything up to where it should be & haven’t had any issues like that as of yet 🤞🤞
Do you have to loosen the 2 gold bolts on top aswell? I'm at the top with the T&line lined up checked the piston and its still super tight. I have the bolts on the values almost off. Sorry about deleting the other post did see you had commented already and felt dumb for asking.
For the valve lash adjustment once it’s at TDC compression stroke you’ll loosen up the 10mm that Holds the lash adjuster in place and then back off actual threaded part until you can fit your .003 feelers gauge in between the top of the valve stem & bottom of the lash adjuster tighten up the 10mm you loosened and repeat on the other adjuster you’ll be good to go after that
And no questions a dumb question sir that’s why I started a TH-cam channel & run one of the largest China bike groups on Facebook I wanna make sure everyone gets the help they need to enjoy the machine they have
@@Jboost412 thank you very much for taking the time out of your day and helping brotha. I also messaged you via FB messenger. If I need more help I'll PM ya on there. Thanks!!
Absolutely happy to help!
Found you in my messenger but you just responded to me so I guess you know that 😆
Should the rocker arm on the exhaust valve be able to move freely? when I am at top dead center, the intake rocker arm is stiff with a tiny amount of play like yours have here, but my exhaust valve rocker arm moves a couple cm it seems.
Good way to make sure your top dead center with the timing mark on the flywheel aligned is to pull the spark plug and make sure the piston is in fact up…if so it sounds like one may need to be slightly looser or it’s spot on while your exhaust valve sounds too loose or possibly the pushrod is out of place depending on how much movement/free play it has
@@Jboost412 i never did the initial 500 mile adjustment on the valve lash so i’ve been riding it apparently very tight this entire time. i’m around 2500 miles now. i did the adjustment at .007mm for both lashes but i don’t know if it’s running right.
not sure what it should sound like. but tomorrow morning i’m going to open it back up and check the clearances again and get them as close to .007 as i can. i think there may be damage to surface of the threaded adjusters shaft that’s connected to the rocker. it doesn’t sit flush it looks worn at an angle to the surface of the rest of the valve train
So I always recommend that one checks them immediately when the bikes new since even if you buy the bike assembled like some dealers do they still seem to come too loose or too tight….but beyond that I tell people to check them again every 500-750 miles since not just the Clones but the real Cg Honda motors always suffered from the valve lash getting tight after say a thousand miles tops so it’s definitely a good idea to constantly check in on the lash sometimes after 750 they’re still spot on sometimes you’ll find them rock solid…just a design issue but even with the situation your in where they’ve been tight for sometime usually an adjustment is all it takes to get it running correctly again now that the valves can open & close the correct amount again at the correct times so odds are in your favor at least I’ve seen people do similar things and simply readjust & keep on going so do let me know how it works out for ya!
Be careful the piston up is not an indicator of it being correct. Remember TDC happens twice it happens on both the compression and exhaust stroke. On the compression stroke both valves should have a bit of play but if they have been adjusted tight it is sometimes tough to tell. the finger in the plug hole is pretty good method or get a cheap compression gauge makes it easy.
Once I do this do I need to adjust the carb again
No your carb shouldn’t need adjustment after a valve lash adjustment it it’s extremely necessary to adjust them before you start riding as the valves can’t close all the way things get bent damaged etc etc
@@Jboost412 I’ve tried riding it a little bit. I got 18 miles on it, but it doesn’t stay idled and it won’t kickstart at all.
Sure the carbs jetted & adjusted correctly? The valve adjustment is usually why they don’t like to kick start as well
@@Jboost412 not sure lol i tried to get it best of my ability i changed the jobs and all that
What jets did you go with /your current elevation there “ask Google” let’s see how close the jetting is now
Great vid trying to do this right now!
Thanks & good luck with the bike once they’re dialed in and setup for you definitely a great buy! I’ve beat mine up in the woods without any issues at all
@@Jboost412 at the end of the vid around 15:30 what is that long bolt with the point on it. That looks like it goes down to that cap that u didnt take off
I’ll have to check & see if I can find what your referring to im not really sure
@@Jboost412 definitly doing something just not sure what. How about when u stick the screwdriver in the spark plug hole what are you feeling for
That’s just an example to verify your piston is up at top dead center if it’s not the screwdriver won’t have anything to hit off of & you know you didn’t rotate the motor enough since the first valve adjustment can be a little tricky with them being so tight usually