Turin DF64 Burr Installation and Alignment
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 พ.ค. 2022
- I just received my second Turin DF64 from Espresso Outlet, and I am wanting to get these SSP Red Speed Burrs installed ASAP.
If you are thinking about getting a Turin, also know as DF64 or G-iota, and you are wanting to upgrade your burrs, check out this video on how I install and align my burrs. I am also checking out the cast lab sweet style, as well as the unimodal. Make sure to subscribe and check back as I have time to make the videos!
www.espressooutlet.net/turin-...
If you add the Turin Tilter or the dial indicator, those come from portakeeper.com so make sure to use the drop down at Espresso Outlet, or if you did not buy with your grinder you can buy direct from PortaKeeper!
thx for the easy DIY explanation for beginners and enthusiasts!
I have been looking for a video on this for quite a while! Thanks man
Thanks Ellis for this video, I've got DF64 with the same version & colour. I just swapped the stock burrs with SSP HU yesterday. SSP HU gives me a sweet delicious cup of coffee through espresso or pour over.
Thank you, this was very helpful. Ended up needing two 4-layer shims to get that alignment! Very straightforward video to follow
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Great video! I've had my DF64 with SSP HU burrs for almost a year and we love it!
You guys are lucky, ours has a slight imperfection on lower burr carrier that raises the lower burr. I got the alignment close but not perfect, that raised spot is killing me. After watching this I'm going to give another try today so wish me luck 🤞
Good luck!
This was so helpful! Thank you
Very informative! Thank you!
Awesome video, I feel a lot more confident to align the burrs now after watching this. Few questions for you. How do you tell where zero is, just whenever you hand turn it and the burrs are touching? Also should I do this same method for the stock burrs? And would it be fine to wipe the marker off with an alcohol wipe? (I have OCD lol) Thank you!
the zero point is just where they start to scuff against each other. You don't want to adjust them past that so that they jam together. You cannot grind any finer than that, and is considered zero. I typically back off just the tiniest amount.
you can do with stock or SSP Burrs. The SSP zero at a different point.
As for an alcohol wipe, that should be fine. I would wipe, reassemble and run some beans through it!
Is it ok to use a marker? It’s not food safe
Thanks for the tips. Curious why you ignored the spring though? I thought you had to make sure they were all at equal level? What are your thoughts on that?
Springs are at a constant. I guess you can mess with them but ultimately the springs just press down. The beans press up when grinding. The springs are important but less important than parallel burrs
Hi nice vid. Also check your springs. Give you better results. Im struggeling with de rotary burr. The stationary gets clean 100% with 2 shims. Bottom one also ( all marker is removed) but when twist them at almost touching point, at some point you hear a short tjirping sound. Do you have this same issue? Thanks for the vid .
Not sure I’m following. If the marker is removed but you think almost touching at one point probably just slightly out of alignment
Mm yes i think thats what causes the sound. But only thing is i cant see where the marker scratches off on the burrs. In your vid i hear the sound at around 16:59 in your video. Is this sound gone with your machine when you alligned the burrs? Thanks already
@@thomazz21 Think that is just where the burrs lightly make contact. They are for the most part uniformity rubbing at this point. Theres really not anything you can do and there's nothing wrong with it.
Do buttons in your df64 light when grinder is plug in or during grinding? In mine button doesn't light, guess that light diod got burned...
It should be lit all the time. Doesn’t change when you turn on and off.
Can I ask how does the espresso taste compared to the stock italmills in terms of body and clarity?
So far I have pulled about 8 shots with these burrs. I can tell I need to run a few more pounds of beans through. I’m not big on seasoning but know they will eventually mesh a lot better here soon. For me a lot more clarity but has very nice body as well. As for the stock, those still surprise me how good they are.
Do you know how much of a difference the high RPM of the DF64 makes regarding creation of fines (in comparison to e.g. the P64 which has variable RPM)?
Will be getting the DF64V soon so I’ll find out
When doing the marker test, should I go to the finest setting and go coarser bit by bit until I can rotate the burrs by hand, or go finer bit by bit until the burrs start to touch?
I usually have spinning and let touch
@@portakeeper when I do that, it doesn't touch when I rotate the burr manually, in the same position
We only align the top burr but not the bottom butt right? Cause I would imagine just by aligning one burr, you'd achieve acceptable alignment overall?
I can’t speak for every grinder but for the most part the burrs should be mostly centered from side to side, so typically we only need to make the two burrs parallel to each other. If the top burr is aligned, the bottom should be good as well.
How do you know 0 is Zero - just at or before they begin to make some sound❓❓
I've got a V.2 DF64 for a week now with the SSP Speed Burr
Zero is just before they touch. I recommend finding out without it running
@@portakeeper Good to know - THX
May be a dumb question, but couldn't you loosen one screw and tighten down the other side to just slightly tilt the burr?
The bed should be flat. It might help but ultimately will loosen if that is effective
@@portakeeper That makes sense, thanks for the response.
does it damage the burrs when youre spinning at the 0 mark and you hear the burrs touching?
⑦
If you barely touch, no, but if your like this guy I saw complaining about his ruined burrs, both sets, both like Majorly ground together for a long time, yeah, it’s possible
Why the 0 mark does not come to the center of the grinder?
They are after market burrs. You have to pull the dial off and realign. Each burr zeros differently
what is indexing the top and bottom burr?
Not sure I get the question but why mark the location on the burr carrier? If so, it’s for when I take apart for cleaning it goes back together the exact same orientation since that is the orientation it is calibrated for
@@portakeeper thanks, yeah thats what i figured. You mentioned indexing the burrs and i didn't know the meaning. I took my grinder apart yesterday and DID NOT have it indexed, so today i'm going to figure that out.
@@ddddddd5425 haha hopefully it works well, if not, there’s only 3 possible ways to install the burrs
Hi, tjx for the Video! Just a Remark, you need to align both burrs! The other one still could be off...
Alignment is distinguished by how both the bottom and top burr "meet up/touch". You can't then have one burr aligned and one misaligned. That wouldn't make sense.
@@LD-tn6ff yes you can. If you align the bottom burr (there is removed marker all around the burr, relatively uniform). This could also be caused by one high point of the top burr removing all that marker, not all of the top burr. This can’t be noticed on the bottom burr itself, because the whole disc is rotating.
If the rotating burr wobbles, only the spot closest to the stationary burr will touch the stationary burr. All of the marker removed on the rotating burr indicates that it is not wobbling and is true. A dial indicator is the best way to determine the trueness of the rotating burr, but the marker completely gone is a very good indicator as well.
@@TheRusk123🙄
before doing any adjustments, make sure all those 3 coil springs are at the same level, the one from the right side it is almost completely inside, closely followed from the top one. th-cam.com/video/6za7YzvBksE/w-d-xo.html Now, take a look on this video th-cam.com/video/T6JgcBmUODM/w-d-xo.html
I bet that shimming was not enough, this is why you didn't show the result...
ok