Very glad that it is helping people rebuild there transmissions. These are simple transmission to build but they can be even easier if you know the tricks to them.
@@Cervan .is this video works for a 2002 civic ex manual transmission..? I have a bad input shaft bearing that annoying the heck out of me..what parts I need to change along with the input shaft bearing.? And what is the honda website from where u buy parts from?
Awesome job! Thanks for taking the time to share and do this video! One thing that I want to add, just in case someone ask, is that on the B18C1 and B18C5 engine the 3rd/4th hub of the mainshaft is install the opposite to the D16 engine with the "U"-shape-teeth upside down.
I did a k series only now jumping into the d series, thanks for making this very informative videos, your right many make videos but skip out some of the important things that needs to be addressed. Keep it up 👍
1996-2000 tranny is basically the same, except there are 3 little spring loaded detent balls on the shift fork rails. Didn't know they were there till I took my 97 apart. The retaining bolts are accesible from the outside. Shift forks looked a tad different but function the same way. Thanks for the informative video! I thought I had similar problems to the one in the video since I was getting pretty severe gear whine in the lower gears and a noticeable growl at higher speeds. Turns out the counter shaft bearing was walking out of the housing like you described. Tapped it back in and punched the housing like shown. Fortunately all the bearings are still flawless. I'm assuming the bearing walking out was causing the lash in the gear sets to be taken up and causing the whine. The growl I'm assuming was from the counter shaft riding closer to the ring gear and removing the lash there.
I don't need to do this job right now, but it was very interesting. Thank you for showing all the steps and talking us through it. Well done, excellent video! Thanks for sharing!
Thankyou so much for making this video for everybody. i recently had an issue with my 1996 civic. I heard a horrible grinding coming from the transmission area. It just started doing this out of the blue one morning. My first thought was that it's an alternator/AC/idler pulley. Then I noticed that while shifting, the clutch would engage when my foot had only lifted up a half inch or less from the floor. The grinding sound was present whether I was pressing on the clutch pedal or not...it was just always grinding. By the time I left work that day, there was no pedal resistance and I was unable to shift in to gears while the car was running. Although the pedal did return back if I took my foot off it. I had to get towed. Anyway, I decided that maybe it's the clutch and that I would replace the clutch, and throwout bearing and that should solve the issues. But now, after having the tranny off, I noticed that the input shaft seems to "click" when I turn it back and forth by hand. i cannot tell if this is because loose ball bearing rolling around from a broken bearing or something else. I was going to take it apart. The car has 205k miles on it. Any advice? Apologies for the long winded post and thankyou.
Sounds like a bad bearing. Buy the transmission rebuild kit through eBay, and just change all bearings and seals. Also check for damaged teeth. If you see damaged teeth on the shift colors or syncros, get the Syncrotech brand shift collars and sychros. They sell a kit with Syncros and metal springs. The shift collars may have to be purchased seperate. None of my syncros had ground down teeth but they slipped on the gear so I had to change some. I also had to change 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th selector colors because the teeth were ground down. My syncro rings were also damaged.
@@SI0AX I appreciate the reply. I ended up taking everything apart and there was no internal damage, it looked great. It appears as though the problem was with the hydraulic system. I replaced the master and slave and the clutch because why not. I do still have a problem in that no matter how much I bleed the slave, the pedal seems to be very spongy
@@Doomzdayxx That can be caused by 3 things: 1. The Brake Master Cylinder(check for leaks but otherwise just change the part). 2. The brake lines(check for worn out, cracked brake lines, also check for leaks at the brake line thread locations). 3. Leaking caliper(check if the bleeder valve is leaking). I recommend you upgrade to stainless steal brake lines like I did. I also had to replace some of my calipers as they had developed a leak at the bleeder valve location that couldn't be solved by replacing the bleeder valve. I bought a pressure brake bleed kit but I had bled the brakes the traditional way and read that it's what caused by brake master cylinder to fail because bottoming out the brake pedal causes the seal to get damaged as is not a recommended way to bleed brakes, thus the pump bleed kit I bought.
19:00 You should have gotten out a needle file and softened up those splines a bit, instead of hammering the snot out of it. Espeically since we all know those thing just fell out when you impaled the assembly onto the concrete floor.
Gary---- first, I must say THANK YOU for taking the time to explain this rebuild in such detail for us to use. I am quite experience and handy with cars, etc... but have never rebuilt a transmission. You made it easy... EXCEPT! :( I have no 4th gear now and was wondering if you could help. I replaced the following parts: all bearings, seals, synchro springs and synchros, slider sleeves, a used replacement set of shift forks, and fluid. Now, after the rebuild, 4th gear pops out and will only engage IF I force the shifter back with hard force but it wants to keep popping back into neutral. When I reassembled it as per you video, I did notice that when I installed the interlock guide bolt in the bell housing, that the shifting became tough when I bench-tested it by hand (shifting). I will admit, that when I first installed the interlock bolt, it went it with ALOT of resistance... Now, after reinstalling it and making sure there's clearance, it threads in smoothly, but still have the 4th gear issue. (pops out aggressively). Any tips, or help is GREATLY APPRECIATED.... Thank you again for the video! You're a great mechanic and TEACHER.
Well im glad this video helped you out, unfortunately if you put the interlock guide bolt in and damaged the shifting channel it could cause shifting issues with other gears. You could also possibly have issues with the 4th gear itself with the synchro blocking ring or possibly put the selector assembly on upside down. Sorry to say it man but you will have to tear the transmission back apart in order to diagnose the issue. If your willing to take a video or some pictures of the transmission and post back here id love to help you.
Thanks guys, if you have any questions feel free to ask. I'm a novice when it comes to videos so forgive my horrible recording skills. I'll try and do more videos like this on b and f/h series transmissions as they come in.
i try to keep up but youtube doesnt always notify me when somone posts a comment, i used regular jb-weld sillicone in this video, but usually i use permatex ultra-grey or right stuff grey.
I usually leave the auto's to the big shops. Auto's are pretty time intensive to get right, and screwing up means a large time investment to get it out and back apart. However if one comes by ill make a video on it.
Alrighty well I have a new issue , I replaced the mainshaft bearing the small one and the large one . I put case back on and was real hard to get on and now it's binding and I cannot rotate the mainshaft by hand . The large bearing on the top of the mainshaft is new and super tight going into the case also the bearings on the diff we're tight too . It's being a bitch to do . Also not sure my lock ring snapped in but I think it did . Also had a little issue with the hex bolt in bell housing that locks the part in place . Gonna take case back off and redo it all. I did not take apart the main or counter shafts at all just the two bearings replaced .
how is he going to deform it if it hits the table flush? i can see taking a hammer to it and hitting it at an angle causing an issue, but the solid metal table is the least of his worries.
Awesome video, helped me recon my S40 with a kit from Ebay. There is advice in here I couldn't find in the manual, and the pics helped me get all the parts in the correct orientation, and position. Thank you very much Cervan!
Yeah that is pretty horrendous. I understand the video is just to show us really i guess, he seems to not give an F about the car according to the description.
I messed up a little with the guide hex bolt that goes in the bell housing , I put it in was a little tight took back out and it left a small dimple of the right guide I got it in there how it should be but a little harder to turn gear selector left and right now
Great video, thank so much for making and posting it. I am working on a 1998 civic ex 5 speed box. There is one thing you may want to mention! There are 3 detente screws that must be remove before you split the case. Otherwise three steel balls will come shooting out of the case. Also I would advise you to use a brass hammer when beating on the gears.
tool man yeah I didn’t point out the detents because the transmission I was doing didn’t have them. I also would use a brass hammer or a piece of pipe to tap the gears on the shaft. Glad to hear that this video helping people out.
I was really interested in the disassembly but questioned why he didn't clean any grit off the parts ,then when he pulled the ball peen hammer to HELP assemble the gears i lost it.he definitely has done a lot of those tranneys ,but really don't ever use a hammer to reassemble,that means there's a bur or grit in the splines.Mr Honda is rolling in his grave,and cursing the American mechanic.haha
all good except for the guide bolt. I could have sworn it had clearance and tightened it down. Checked the gears and could slide back and forth but not over for the rest of the set. I pulled it back out and sure enough I just knicked the side of the slot. Shifts great without the guide bolt in but as soon as its back in its tight all over again. May have bent something. Hope not as not sure where I will get a replacement. Just did all new bearings and seals too.
Bad luck man, if you tear the trans back apart and remove the guide you might be able to flatten it out with a hammer very carefully and might be able to salvage it. Otherwise you might have to buy another junk case or source it on ebay.
@@Cervan Thanks. Got it apart. I just nicked the edge so not bent and was able to smooth out with a file. The nick was enough though it was not allowing it to slide back and forth without getting stuck. Back together but messed up getting the reverse shift fork lined up I believe as bench test has it going through all the gears except won't go into reverse. so need to pull apart still. PS - the 89 d series transmission only has one concaved washer on the main shaft on the input shaft bearing...there is no shim. Appears they started using 2 in 91.
Hey mate just to let you know if you use a screwdriver in the pry point and then shove your bar in between the halves, where the silicon is then you can get much more levering and its much easier to control splitting the 2 parts.
I've been trying to get my case to fully close for an hour. Everything looks identical to yours, I've triple checked everything. It took so long I had to remove my Honda bond because it dried lmao
Sometimes they are a real bear to get to close, just make sure all of your shafts are properly seated and all bearings are in fully. It should just drop right on
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most shops in my area charge around 300-400 for removal and install of transmission, then parts get a 30-40% upcharge. it costs around 150$ for parts my cost, so i would assume another 300$ in parts if your not going to replace the clutch. labor is also around 100$ an hour, if they quote 3 hours then you have 1000$. not really defending them, more explaining how that could be possible.
hmm, ive never looked it up but its probably something like 10-15 foot pounds. ususally i just run them down until they are snug, no need to overtighten them.
Thankyou for sharing the knowledge to everyone and for giving me the courage to rebuild my tranny instead of spending almost 1k to someone else, also i love how you messed up so many times but still left the mistakes in the video, respect! XD
Thanks for making this video very detailed. I am going to rebuild my B000 D16y8 Transmission here very soon and I am going to use this as a guide! cheers
Hey man im glad it helped someone out, this was made for joe 6 pack, not the professional multi million dollar setup. This was a cheap way to get something done right, and if you have any questions let me know i will try and help you out.
@@Cervan You already know I have a 6 pack of Corona in the fridge ready to go 😆 I have a little D16z6 Vitara / I beam rod setup on 10psi for daily driving I put together like 5 years ago in my 99 EK. She still runs great but I have gone through 3 transmissions with it lol I am eye balling the Syncrotech bearing and synchro kit on ebay and possibly a Mfactory LSD. I am tired of buying used transmissions for cheap and having them only last a couple years before the bearings go out. I will definitely hit you up if I run into any problems! Thanks again! Cheers
@@Cervan Thanks again for making this video. I replaced the ISB, the CV seals and ISB seal for around $70 a while ago and its been doing great. I decided to rebuild my other transmission that has been sitting in my garage for over 6 years the other day. So now I have a spare my if I ever have anymore issues in the future. The one I just did had a ISB that was pretty warn out and the outer counter shaft bearing was destroyed. I think its one of the worse bearings I have ever seen in my life tbh Luckly it didn't completely fall apart and ruin anything else in the transmission lol
I have an issue... Kind of an SOS. Ive rebuilt a couple of these with good luck so far, but I'm stuck on one. At exactly 16:42 when you say "slide it down" you are sliding down the 1-2 shift shaft sleeve to engage 1st gear. I have a brand new synchrotech shift shaft sleeve and carbon synchro set. All gears work fine, but the 1-2 shift sleeve on the countershaft absolutely will not engage either 1st or 2nd. I tried the old one, same thing. Even tried a couple old synchros. Friction dampers lined up, all gears and synchros facing correct direction, synchro "rings" are on... Everything appears correct as always but now all of the sudden regaurdless of the combination of old vs. New parts I cannot get this thing to shift into either 1st or 2nd. For the record, I even assmebled the trans out of hope that with it put together and with some leverage it would be able to shift, but no 1 or 2 still. :/ any advise id be more than gratefull.
Hey friend, sorry your having a hard go at this trans rebuild. I have seen in the past synchro locking "rings" get bent out of shape every so slightly causing what your describing. Try and remove the small rings from the synchros (or remove the brass synchros all together for a test) and try and engage 1st gear. If it engages fully then you know its something in the synchro assembly.
Awesome video, I just did a manual swap, found out afterwards that I couldn’t shift into reverse. Couple questions for you since I am going to attempt to rebuild, it is a 98 civic that I’m working on, trans is from a 00 civic. Could it be the fork? Or possibly the ball bearing shifted? The reverse portion looks fairly simple. Does it not have a synchro? Any recommended rebuild kits you go with?
My input bearing has words stamped on the opposite side. My plastic bearing holder base is on the side with no words. I assume I ignore the words bit and install it with the bearing holder facing upwards.
Need some help PLEASE! About to toss this one accross the garage and buy a new one on-line. I just put all new seals and bearings from Honda in my transmission cases....did not touch the gear assemblies at all, just put them aside and dropped them back in. Now it won't go in reverse and 5th is tough too. From what I can tell is that the 5 gear selector ring appears stuck and is very stiff??...I cannot slide it back and forth by hand (need a screw driver). I bought this thing used and never ran but the guy insists it worked well....syncros look nearly prefect. I am really stuck on what is going on. here is a video of what appears to be hung up....not sure why its affecting reverese and 5 but it is. When its back together I shift with hand and it slides over okay, maybe a little stiffer on the Reverse and 5th side of the assembly but they just dont't shift in to gear....5th will go but very hard to put in by hand. Reverese would need to t be hammered in and I dont't wanna do that!! th-cam.com/video/S7BmsGDvzHw/w-d-xo.html
Looks like the sleeve is stuck on the 5th gear snap ring retainer (the little ring that goes around the synchro). If you remove the snap ring, does the sleeve move freely? Also the snap ring should be shiny and smooth, not beat up, that can also cause this problem. Also try different orientations of the selector sleeve on the hub, as sometimes they are tighter if you line them up wrong. Also make sure the side with the chamfer goes down towards the synchro or else it will beat up the synchro snap ring. 5th and reverse are controlled by the same shift fork/shaft, so if you have an issue with either one it causes issues for both. More than likely you dont have any problems with reverse and its all related to 5th.
sometimes the countershaft bearing is really tight in the case and you have to slowly work it out with two screwdrivers to get it to release from the shaft.
@@Cervan thanks for your reply I forgot to remove the hex bolt in bell housing after that they came out but I posted another issue in the comments if you can help out .
So I just rebuilt my trans on my 89 crx si. It’s a cable trans and everything looks good I’m able to bench shift it but then when I put it in the car it’s like it’s stuck in gear. In neutral it will start to pull off when I release the clutch. And it’s very hard to get it into in gear position. Any help would be great. I didn’t lose any shims and from why I tmemeber mine doesn’t have any detent balls that would’ve shot out anywhere. It’s a 89 si cable trans on a d16a6
A Gary , hell of a good video , I'll be using it soon to do my 2000 Honda Civic , I think my input shaft bearing is going out, it's starting to make a little noise , how long you think I can drive it before it needs fixed, thanks great learning video,
Its hard to say, could last a day, could go a year its really a roll of the dice. And usually when they finally break, it shatters the case rendering it irreparable.
Awesome vid! I wish I found this before I changed my Input Shaft Bearing!! I went to the civic forums and went by pics which were not as complete as your tutorial! Question for you: I knew the order of the washers on the input shaft bearing but did not realize (till I saw it in your video) that there is a specific side facing up. What would happen if the spring washer was put in upside down? Will it cause slow uneven wear? or some type of catastrophic failure while I'm driving? I just finished installing the tranny back in the car in -21c winter. I don't want to have to take it out again just to check...ha ha! Again, great video!
I probably would not worry too much about which way it was facing. You might have an issue down the road if the washer wears because it doesn't have enough contact area with the ISB. This could result in unloading the input shaft and cause end play on the input shaft. I probably wouldn't take it apart unless you started hearing noises.
Cervan is it the same for the spring washer on top of the countershaft? Is there a way to tell the orientation of the washer without taking the 32mm nut off?
sorry for the late reply, no the shim on the bottom of the input shaft is much thinner than the one on the top of the countershaft, so its very easy to identify which one goes where.
I wish you showed how to dry shift into reverse. I just finished everything and it wont go into reverse at all! This will be my third time tearing it all down. I can’t even dry shift it into reverse.
Additionally. I don’t see why the guide bolt is last. Why can’t it be done right before the housing is put on? This way you can tell if it’s aligned properly. Why not?
You sure can put it back in before you put the cover back on, it's not really important when you install it, more it's just the last thing I install because that way I remember to install it because it's the first and last bolt I touch.
Gotcha. Some people use rtv sealer on the threads. Wouldn’t thread sealer be more appropriate? Or just nothing? I don’t even see that part submerged in oil.
Besides the honda MT oil, there are another that you can recomend? here in Brazil it cost R$100 each liter (0,26galon) while a motor oil costs R$20 Somebody says I can use 20w40 motor oil on that, this one cost even less Previous owner uses oil SAE90 on that transmition, the shift fork does not survived to that. Ps. I hear 10w30 1:09:37 ?
I would recommend using the amsoil synchromesh fluid. You'd probably have to order it directly from amsoil as its hard to find in stores even here in the states. It's the best you can put in there. I believe 5w-30 will work if you want to cheap out but if you want your tranny to last, go with amsoil in there
00sisco if it's grinding or noisy I would suggest pulling it back apart at least to double check. the input should be smooth and not hard to turn with new bearings while in neutral
I'll agree with the gloves part. Doesn't hurt to prevent yourself from soaking up some inorganic chemicals through your skin if it can be prevented. I've started wearing gloves and it certainly makes for cleaner hands at the end of the day (and the following days after that) when it's all said and done.
Part # for 1-2 shift fork ? I thought it was my sink rows until I watched your video. 2nd gear is half out. I can still use it but I have the apply pressure and hold it in gear or it pops out
Popping out of gear could be a couple of things, a broken shift fork is very possible as it causes not only grinding, but the selector ring to not engage fully on to the teeth of the gear. Worn or damaged dog teeth on the synchro ring could also cause this issue. Also the snap ring on the synchro could also cause it to pop out of gear. As far as the actual part number goes, there were several variations of shift forks between the years, best bet is to take it apart and find which one you have. Majestic honda can narrow down the part number to your year if you look it up.
Thanks, good video. I just split the cases on an '89 D series transmission to check the synchros before install. They look great. BUT, question with the inner input shaft/mainshaft bearing.....the one that occasionally gets stuck in the case when pulling cases apart. Mine spins great, no noise....but how much "axial play" should that large bearing have? I suspect it gets taken up once the main shaft is installed and cases go together but can't tell whats too much? thanks!
it’s normal to have a small amount of axial endplay on the bearing but if you suspect it being bad I would suggest replacing it., there isn’t really a spec on those bearings to measure.
the only things I want to ask/recommend is where/how you sourced your parts and what sealants you used. I am not really having luck finding new input shafts or selector forks for the s20 trans. just repair sleeves.
I sourced all of my bearings from majestichonda.com or hondapartsdeals.com. However some parts are starting to become hard to find OEM and im starting to look into aftermarket kits as a result, but for the time being those two places usually have what i need. As far as sealant goes its just permatex ultra grey from the auto parts store. As far as hard parts go like shifter forks and main shafts your probably going to need to get those used as they are probably no longer available new.
Daniel the synchronizers are usually the last parts that go bad. I've replaced very few over the years, and most of those needed replaced not because they were bad, but because the dog teeth were damaged because of grinding. usually grinding is caused by bent or broken shift forks and bad motor mounts.
I just had a shop put in replacement 2nd and 3rd gear and a LSd in my transmission, It cost me 400 does that seem high? This is for labor only. The trans was not in the car.
Excellent video man, always wanted to find a detailed video on the transmission of slings from the inside, I would like to ask a question that I always wanted to know, I recently discovered that the forks of the S40 transmissions are made of steel and the S20 are made of aluminum, you know the exact difference of weight between these pieces? or the total difference in the full weight of the cartons? Thank you ... big hug Man ...
Lol man i wish i could tell you the weight differences between them, but there isnt much difference. Mainly people swap to the steel s40 cases for more reliability as the aluminum shift forks tend to break if you dont shift carefully. ive broken many of them in my drag car, once i swapped to steel i didnt have a single problem.
@@Cervan Many thanks Man, I'm going to exchange my long exchange A000 S20 for the B000 S40, a relieved steering wheel and a new clutch, I hope it gets more fun haha .. big hug from Brazil
When you put the counter shaft back together you said make make sure the tangs are lined up before you pound the gears the rest of the way on and there should be no up or down play. When I put mine back together I did it exactly as you said but for some reason there is a little up and down movement no matter how hard I pounded it on. Do the splines have any specific spot they go together?
Great video, by the way may I ask for an advice. i have a honda civic with a stock B16a transmission (manual) when Im in low gear (1st to 3rd gear) I hear a humming sound.. but when I go to 4th and 5th everything is smooth (no sound) by the way shifting to any gears are smooth. It could be the input shaft bearing? Thanks
All you did was take the main shaft apart and put it back you didn't use any new parts but input bearing? These Front wheel drive trans look similar to motorcycle gears the cluster comes out with the input, If Its my car and I I'm into it this far I'm throwing a full kit at it, I did see you say the car was junk so I know where your coming from Brother.
@@hectormlugo9631 they go into each hole ball bearings first, then spring and then the cap goes on. They are the shift fork detents. So the bearings should ride on the shift forks directly with spring pressure behind them.
Rolando Abella the only thing you would have to do extra when installing an lsd is shim the diff bearings to get the correct clearances. other than that it's drop in. if your going for a high up build, you might consider checking the input shaft endplay as well.
After changing all the shift soleniods and neutral saftey switch would those bearings be next? Car is acting like its in neatural after driving around no CEL
Followed step by step. No problems and shifts perfect. No noise no grinding.
Duuude, that concrete trick for output shaft disassembly is a life saver! So simple it's almost genius. Thanks a lot bud!
I made an youtube account just to thank you for this video, awesome thank you. H+
Very glad that it is helping people rebuild there transmissions. These are simple transmission to build but they can be even easier if you know the tricks to them.
@@Cervan Jewel don't have any videos for a 2005 Toyota matrix manual transmission
@@Cervan I got a gear noises in my transmission in every gear
@@Cervan .is this video works for a 2002 civic ex manual transmission..? I have a bad input shaft bearing that annoying the heck out of me..what parts I need to change along with the input shaft bearing.? And what is the honda website from where u buy parts from?
@@Cervan I'm thinking of doing it myself because the labor cost to have that bearing charge is the price for $2000 car n I cant afford that.
Great video... now I'm building confidence to rebuild my transmission!
Did you do it??
@@isrvidk about him but I just got my case bolted back together seems to shift properly. Done a bunch of bearings and seals/synchros
@@IzzySk10 bro gave up,but insane that you did im on hood terms with my transmission but I wanna learn more since transmissions catch all my attention
Awesome job! Thanks for taking the time to share and do this video! One thing that I want to add, just in case someone ask, is that on the B18C1 and B18C5 engine the 3rd/4th hub of the mainshaft is install the opposite to the D16 engine with the "U"-shape-teeth upside down.
I did a k series only now jumping into the d series, thanks for making this very informative videos, your right many make videos but skip out some of the important things that needs to be addressed. Keep it up 👍
Input Shaft Bearing is still available in Japan.
1996-2000 tranny is basically the same, except there are 3 little spring loaded detent balls on the shift fork rails. Didn't know they were there till I took my 97 apart. The retaining bolts are accesible from the outside. Shift forks looked a tad different but function the same way.
Thanks for the informative video!
I thought I had similar problems to the one in the video since I was getting pretty severe gear whine in the lower gears and a noticeable growl at higher speeds. Turns out the counter shaft bearing was walking out of the housing like you described.
Tapped it back in and punched the housing like shown. Fortunately all the bearings are still flawless. I'm assuming the bearing walking out was causing the lash in the gear sets to be taken up and causing the whine. The growl I'm assuming was from the counter shaft riding closer to the ring gear and removing the lash there.
Now I understand what happened to my transmission you were a great teacher💪👌 thank you.
I don't need to do this job right now, but it was very interesting. Thank you for showing all the steps and talking us through it. Well done, excellent video! Thanks for sharing!
just rebuilt the trans in my 89 sedan with this video, saved my a$$ on quite a few things, thank you!
Cheers pal, about to strip down my '98 aerodeck 1.8. I imagine its a pretty similar setup
Thankyou so much for making this video for everybody. i recently had an issue with my 1996 civic. I heard a horrible grinding coming from the transmission area. It just started doing this out of the blue one morning. My first thought was that it's an alternator/AC/idler pulley. Then I noticed that while shifting, the clutch would engage when my foot had only lifted up a half inch or less from the floor. The grinding sound was present whether I was pressing on the clutch pedal or not...it was just always grinding.
By the time I left work that day, there was no pedal resistance and I was unable to shift in to gears while the car was running. Although the pedal did return back if I took my foot off it. I had to get towed. Anyway, I decided that maybe it's the clutch and that I would replace the clutch, and throwout bearing and that should solve the issues. But now, after having the tranny off, I noticed that the input shaft seems to "click" when I turn it back and forth by hand. i cannot tell if this is because loose ball bearing rolling around from a broken bearing or something else. I was going to take it apart. The car has 205k miles on it. Any advice? Apologies for the long winded post and thankyou.
Sounds like a bad bearing. Buy the transmission rebuild kit through eBay, and just change all bearings and seals. Also check for damaged teeth. If you see damaged teeth on the shift colors or syncros, get the Syncrotech brand shift collars and sychros. They sell a kit with Syncros and metal springs. The shift collars may have to be purchased seperate. None of my syncros had ground down teeth but they slipped on the gear so I had to change some. I also had to change 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th selector colors because the teeth were ground down. My syncro rings were also damaged.
@@SI0AX I appreciate the reply. I ended up taking everything apart and there was no internal damage, it looked great. It appears as though the problem was with the hydraulic system. I replaced the master and slave and the clutch because why not. I do still have a problem in that no matter how much I bleed the slave, the pedal seems to be very spongy
@@Doomzdayxx That can be caused by 3 things:
1. The Brake Master Cylinder(check for leaks but otherwise just change the part).
2. The brake lines(check for worn out, cracked brake lines, also check for leaks at the brake line thread locations).
3. Leaking caliper(check if the bleeder valve is leaking).
I recommend you upgrade to stainless steal brake lines like I did. I also had to replace some of my calipers as they had developed a leak at the bleeder valve location that couldn't be solved by replacing the bleeder valve.
I bought a pressure brake bleed kit but I had bled the brakes the traditional way and read that it's what caused by brake master cylinder to fail because bottoming out the brake pedal causes the seal to get damaged as is not a recommended way to bleed brakes, thus the pump bleed kit I bought.
Thank you for this! Rebuilding my 93 and having something to follow along with is awesome.
19:00 You should have gotten out a needle file and softened up those splines a bit, instead of hammering the snot out of it. Espeically since we all know those thing just fell out when you impaled the assembly onto the concrete floor.
Gary---- first, I must say THANK YOU for taking the time to explain this rebuild in such detail for us to use. I am quite experience and handy with cars, etc... but have never rebuilt a transmission. You made it easy... EXCEPT! :( I have no 4th gear now and was wondering if you could help.
I replaced the following parts: all bearings, seals, synchro springs and synchros, slider sleeves, a used replacement set of shift forks, and fluid. Now, after the rebuild, 4th gear pops out and will only engage IF I force the shifter back with hard force but it wants to keep popping back into neutral.
When I reassembled it as per you video, I did notice that when I installed the interlock guide bolt in the bell housing, that the shifting became tough when I bench-tested it by hand (shifting). I will admit, that when I first installed the interlock bolt, it went it with ALOT of resistance... Now, after reinstalling it and making sure there's clearance, it threads in smoothly, but still have the 4th gear issue. (pops out aggressively). Any tips, or help is GREATLY APPRECIATED.... Thank you again for the video! You're a great mechanic and TEACHER.
Well im glad this video helped you out, unfortunately if you put the interlock guide bolt in and damaged the shifting channel it could cause shifting issues with other gears. You could also possibly have issues with the 4th gear itself with the synchro blocking ring or possibly put the selector assembly on upside down. Sorry to say it man but you will have to tear the transmission back apart in order to diagnose the issue. If your willing to take a video or some pictures of the transmission and post back here id love to help you.
I'm about to do a rebuild on my Y5 and need to do this too. Glad I found this, it'll help a lot. Thanks man!
Thanks guys, if you have any questions feel free to ask. I'm a novice when it comes to videos so forgive my horrible recording skills. I'll try and do more videos like this on b and f/h series transmissions as they come in.
Cervan can you please do a video on the automatic transmission just like this one but on the automatic. Thanks
Cervan don't know how active you are on here since this video is a yr old, but what silicone did you use to seal the trans?
i try to keep up but youtube doesnt always notify me when somone posts a comment, i used regular jb-weld sillicone in this video, but usually i use permatex ultra-grey or right stuff grey.
I usually leave the auto's to the big shops. Auto's are pretty time intensive to get right, and screwing up means a large time investment to get it out and back apart. However if one comes by ill make a video on it.
@@Cervan Can you rebuild my s40 transmission? I have all the parts
Thanks for the detailed video! It saved me a ton of time rebuilding my SLW.
best video on how to rebuild the dseries transmission thanks for the upload
Alrighty well I have a new issue , I replaced the mainshaft bearing the small one and the large one . I put case back on and was real hard to get on and now it's binding and I cannot rotate the mainshaft by hand . The large bearing on the top of the mainshaft is new and super tight going into the case also the bearings on the diff we're tight too . It's being a bitch to do . Also not sure my lock ring snapped in but I think it did . Also had a little issue with the hex bolt in bell housing that locks the part in place . Gonna take case back off and redo it all. I did not take apart the main or counter shafts at all just the two bearings replaced .
don't pound the shaft so hard, esp on a metal table, you risk deforming the end. just get a puller or make one to pull it off
how is he going to deform it if it hits the table flush? i can see taking a hammer to it and hitting it at an angle causing an issue, but the solid metal table is the least of his worries.
Awesome video, helped me recon my S40 with a kit from Ebay. There is advice in here I couldn't find in the manual, and the pics helped me get all the parts in the correct orientation, and position. Thank you very much Cervan!
Anytime! im glad that it helped you out.
Paterico (preludepatrick) from DSO. Your snap ring technique helped me separate my transmission case tonight. Thanks!
late reply but glad to see i helped another dso fan, long live the D!
Rebuilding a transaxle on a table with a bench grinder on it. You can hear the grit every time you set the parts down on it.
Yeah that is pretty horrendous. I understand the video is just to show us really i guess, he seems to not give an F about the car according to the description.
I messed up a little with the guide hex bolt that goes in the bell housing , I put it in was a little tight took back out and it left a small dimple of the right guide I got it in there how it should be but a little harder to turn gear selector left and right now
Great video, thank so much for making and posting it. I am working on a 1998 civic ex 5 speed box. There is one thing you may want to mention! There are 3 detente screws that must be remove before you split the case. Otherwise three steel balls will come shooting out of the case. Also I would advise you to use a brass hammer when beating on the gears.
tool man yeah I didn’t point out the detents because the transmission I was doing didn’t have them. I also would use a brass hammer or a piece of pipe to tap the gears on the shaft. Glad to hear that this video helping people out.
you're a legend dude, I'm about to rebuild mine and i was pretty scared to do it 😅
Can you do a full Itr/gsr rebuild please im trying to save myself a 500 labour fee :(
Great video. Thank you for taking the time to put this out.
I was really interested in the disassembly but questioned why he didn't clean any grit off the parts ,then when he pulled the ball peen hammer to HELP assemble the gears i lost it.he definitely has done a lot of those tranneys ,but really don't ever use a hammer to reassemble,that means there's a bur or grit in the splines.Mr Honda is rolling in his grave,and cursing the American mechanic.haha
all good except for the guide bolt. I could have sworn it had clearance and tightened it down. Checked the gears and could slide back and forth but not over for the rest of the set. I pulled it back out and sure enough I just knicked the side of the slot. Shifts great without the guide bolt in but as soon as its back in its tight all over again. May have bent something. Hope not as not sure where I will get a replacement. Just did all new bearings and seals too.
Bad luck man, if you tear the trans back apart and remove the guide you might be able to flatten it out with a hammer very carefully and might be able to salvage it. Otherwise you might have to buy another junk case or source it on ebay.
@@Cervan Thanks. Got it apart. I just nicked the edge so not bent and was able to smooth out with a file. The nick was enough though it was not allowing it to slide back and forth without getting stuck. Back together but messed up getting the reverse shift fork lined up I believe as bench test has it going through all the gears except won't go into reverse. so need to pull apart still. PS - the 89 d series transmission only has one concaved washer on the main shaft on the input shaft bearing...there is no shim. Appears they started using 2 in 91.
the sacred video. extremely helpful with my build
Dude thank you for the video. First time rebuilding a trans myself wanted to learn and this helped a lot!!
Hey mate just to let you know if you use a screwdriver in the pry point and then shove your bar in between the halves, where the silicon is then you can get much more levering and its much easier to control splitting the 2 parts.
Very interesting to see a manual inside, i rebuild autos for a living and this seems very similar to a DSG on the inside...
i need my 00 civic ISB DONE, WISH U LIVED IN OREGON
I've been trying to get my case to fully close for an hour. Everything looks identical to yours, I've triple checked everything. It took so long I had to remove my Honda bond because it dried lmao
Sometimes they are a real bear to get to close, just make sure all of your shafts are properly seated and all bearings are in fully. It should just drop right on
Wacth your video, to rebuild my trans, everything is working great, thanks a lot , merry Christmas
oh man the grit on that table is now all over the gears and machine surfaces. and put some gloves on man!!!
Calm down pussy thats how we real men work dont like gtfoh.
GREAT JOB YOUNG MAN!!! SAW YOUR FRIEND SQUANKING...LOL...I HAVE USED GASKACINCH ON ALL FLAT MSTING SURFACES...NEVER LEAKED...EVER...ALL BIKES...CARS...VW BUG CASES...Just saying way cheaper than RTV...NO SMOOSHING EITHER...
now i just need to take my transmission out to see what’s going on with 4th grinding when i do a over 5k rpm shift hopefully not the shift forks
so tell me why a shop charges a grand for this when it took this dude a little over an hour........
most shops in my area charge around 300-400 for removal and install of transmission, then parts get a 30-40% upcharge. it costs around 150$ for parts my cost, so i would assume another 300$ in parts if your not going to replace the clutch. labor is also around 100$ an hour, if they quote 3 hours then you have 1000$. not really defending them, more explaining how that could be possible.
Oh no.. I totally get it I’m just being sarcastic. It’s crazy how easy a lot of this is yourself.
It’s funny because I’m doing my rebuild right now because of this video. However what’s the torque specs of the two transmission housings?
hmm, ive never looked it up but its probably something like 10-15 foot pounds. ususally i just run them down until they are snug, no need to overtighten them.
Do it yourself and you'll understand why it cost a grand. If you don't know what your doing, you'll be pulling it multiple times lol.
Concave washer is called "belleville washer".
I knew the meaning but i thought it would be easier for people to comprehend which way faced up/down if i said concave/convex.
Thankyou for sharing the knowledge to everyone and for giving me the courage to rebuild my tranny instead of spending almost 1k to someone else, also i love how you messed up so many times but still left the mistakes in the video, respect! XD
Id rather make them and show you so you dont make them in your build.
Thanks for making this video very detailed. I am going to rebuild my B000 D16y8 Transmission here very soon and I am going to use this as a guide! cheers
Hey man im glad it helped someone out, this was made for joe 6 pack, not the professional multi million dollar setup. This was a cheap way to get something done right, and if you have any questions let me know i will try and help you out.
@@Cervan You already know I have a 6 pack of Corona in the fridge ready to go 😆 I have a little D16z6 Vitara / I beam rod setup on 10psi for daily driving I put together like 5 years ago in my 99 EK. She still runs great but I have gone through 3 transmissions with it lol I am eye balling the Syncrotech bearing and synchro kit on ebay and possibly a Mfactory LSD. I am tired of buying used transmissions for cheap and having them only last a couple years before the bearings go out. I will definitely hit you up if I run into any problems! Thanks again! Cheers
@@Cervan Thanks again for making this video. I replaced the ISB, the CV seals and ISB seal for around $70 a while ago and its been doing great. I decided to rebuild my other transmission that has been sitting in my garage for over 6 years the other day. So now I have a spare my if I ever have anymore issues in the future. The one I just did had a ISB that was pretty warn out and the outer counter shaft bearing was destroyed. I think its one of the worse bearings I have ever seen in my life tbh Luckly it didn't completely fall apart and ruin anything else in the transmission lol
Great info thanks for the help
I have an issue... Kind of an SOS. Ive rebuilt a couple of these with good luck so far, but I'm stuck on one.
At exactly 16:42 when you say "slide it down" you are sliding down the 1-2 shift shaft sleeve to engage 1st gear.
I have a brand new synchrotech shift shaft sleeve and carbon synchro set. All gears work fine, but the 1-2 shift sleeve on the countershaft absolutely will not engage either 1st or 2nd. I tried the old one, same thing. Even tried a couple old synchros. Friction dampers lined up, all gears and synchros facing correct direction, synchro "rings" are on... Everything appears correct as always but now all of the sudden regaurdless of the combination of old vs. New parts I cannot get this thing to shift into either 1st or 2nd.
For the record, I even assmebled the trans out of hope that with it put together and with some leverage it would be able to shift, but no 1 or 2 still. :/ any advise id be more than gratefull.
Hey friend, sorry your having a hard go at this trans rebuild. I have seen in the past synchro locking "rings" get bent out of shape every so slightly causing what your describing. Try and remove the small rings from the synchros (or remove the brass synchros all together for a test) and try and engage 1st gear. If it engages fully then you know its something in the synchro assembly.
Legendary. Great first video. Many thanks.
Man your a great mechanic would like to be your apprentice lol
Great video. Very impressed
Put trans back together and the shaft if a little harder to spin by hand
BEST👍👍🤣 assemble n dismantle like tonka toys. True Genuine Real deal..great video👍😃
Awesome video, I just did a manual swap, found out afterwards that I couldn’t shift into reverse.
Couple questions for you since I am going to attempt to rebuild, it is a 98 civic that I’m working on, trans is from a 00 civic.
Could it be the fork? Or possibly the ball bearing shifted? The reverse portion looks fairly simple. Does it not have a synchro?
Any recommended rebuild kits you go with?
My input bearing has words stamped on the opposite side. My plastic bearing holder base is on the side with no words. I assume I ignore the words bit and install it with the bearing holder facing upwards.
Cervan can you please do a video on the automatic transmission for a 1993 Honda Civic ex coupe. I want to know how to rebuild it myself. Thanks.
“You know what really grinds my gears!?” (Peter Griffin Voice)
19:00
Need some help PLEASE! About to toss this one accross the garage and buy a new one on-line. I just put all new seals and bearings from Honda in my transmission cases....did not touch the gear assemblies at all, just put them aside and dropped them back in. Now it won't go in reverse and 5th is tough too. From what I can tell is that the 5 gear selector ring appears stuck and is very stiff??...I cannot slide it back and forth by hand (need a screw driver). I bought this thing used and never ran but the guy insists it worked well....syncros look nearly prefect. I am really stuck on what is going on. here is a video of what appears to be hung up....not sure why its affecting reverese and 5 but it is. When its back together I shift with hand and it slides over okay, maybe a little stiffer on the Reverse and 5th side of the assembly but they just dont't shift in to gear....5th will go but very hard to put in by hand. Reverese would need to t be hammered in and I dont't wanna do that!! th-cam.com/video/S7BmsGDvzHw/w-d-xo.html
Looks like the sleeve is stuck on the 5th gear snap ring retainer (the little ring that goes around the synchro). If you remove the snap ring, does the sleeve move freely? Also the snap ring should be shiny and smooth, not beat up, that can also cause this problem. Also try different orientations of the selector sleeve on the hub, as sometimes they are tighter if you line them up wrong. Also make sure the side with the chamfer goes down towards the synchro or else it will beat up the synchro snap ring.
5th and reverse are controlled by the same shift fork/shaft, so if you have an issue with either one it causes issues for both. More than likely you dont have any problems with reverse and its all related to 5th.
Awesome video taught me alot
I dont know why but I broke two of the bearings with clip retainer on them. 😞 Maybe the retaining clip is damaged or bent
Awesome video
Where can I buy the parts to rebuild?
Informative yet horrifying at the same time.
Can you help me my 97 manual trans I can't get the main and counter shafts out I removed that bolt but they won't come out
The shift forks won't let go of the rod part
sometimes the countershaft bearing is really tight in the case and you have to slowly work it out with two screwdrivers to get it to release from the shaft.
Oh you mean the selector? hmm it should just pull right out, might be a little tight if the selector is very tight on the shaft.
@@Cervan thanks for your reply I forgot to remove the hex bolt in bell housing after that they came out but I posted another issue in the comments if you can help out .
Where can I buy the friction dampeners for a 91 transmission or are all them the same
Your a life saver!! Thank you!
So I just rebuilt my trans on my 89 crx si. It’s a cable trans and everything looks good I’m able to bench shift it but then when I put it in the car it’s like it’s stuck in gear. In neutral it will start to pull off when I release the clutch. And it’s very hard to get it into in gear position. Any help would be great. I didn’t lose any shims and from why I tmemeber mine doesn’t have any detent balls that would’ve shot out anywhere. It’s a 89 si cable trans on a d16a6
A Gary , hell of a good video , I'll be using it soon to do my 2000 Honda Civic , I think my input shaft bearing is going out, it's starting to make a little noise , how long you think I can drive it before it needs fixed, thanks great learning video,
Its hard to say, could last a day, could go a year its really a roll of the dice. And usually when they finally break, it shatters the case rendering it irreparable.
Awesome vid! I wish I found this before I changed my Input Shaft Bearing!! I went to the civic forums and went by pics which were not as complete as your tutorial! Question for you: I knew the order of the washers on the input shaft bearing but did not realize (till I saw it in your video) that there is a specific side facing up. What would happen if the spring washer was put in upside down? Will it cause slow uneven wear? or some type of catastrophic failure while I'm driving? I just finished installing the tranny back in the car in -21c winter. I don't want to have to take it out again just to check...ha ha!
Again, great video!
I probably would not worry too much about which way it was facing. You might have an issue down the road if the washer wears because it doesn't have enough contact area with the ISB. This could result in unloading the input shaft and cause end play on the input shaft. I probably wouldn't take it apart unless you started hearing noises.
Cool. Thanks for the reply. Just drove across the country.No noises yet.
Cervan is it the same for the spring washer on top of the countershaft? Is there a way to tell the orientation of the washer without taking the 32mm nut off?
sorry for the late reply, no the shim on the bottom of the input shaft is much thinner than the one on the top of the countershaft, so its very easy to identify which one goes where.
Thank you must detailed video hope you make more videos like this 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I wish you showed how to dry shift into reverse. I just finished everything and it wont go into reverse at all! This will be my third time tearing it all down. I can’t even dry shift it into reverse.
Bobby Hill usually you have to rotate the input shaft while pushing the selector into reverse for it to engage
Additionally. I don’t see why the guide bolt is last. Why can’t it be done right before the housing is put on? This way you can tell if it’s aligned properly. Why not?
You sure can put it back in before you put the cover back on, it's not really important when you install it, more it's just the last thing I install because that way I remember to install it because it's the first and last bolt I touch.
Gotcha. Some people use rtv sealer on the threads. Wouldn’t thread sealer be more appropriate? Or just nothing? I don’t even see that part submerged in oil.
Is this channel still active? I certainly hope so. There's probably so much I could ask you about.
Dude in DC shirt: *stares directly into camera and hits douche flute* Me: *jizz in my pants*. That was a power move🤣🤣🤣
Can you please do one for a 2000 Honda accord transmission
Besides the honda MT oil, there are another that you can recomend? here in Brazil it cost R$100 each liter (0,26galon) while a motor oil costs R$20
Somebody says I can use 20w40 motor oil on that, this one cost even less
Previous owner uses oil SAE90 on that transmition, the shift fork does not survived to that.
Ps. I hear 10w30 1:09:37 ?
I would recommend using the amsoil synchromesh fluid. You'd probably have to order it directly from amsoil as its hard to find in stores even here in the states. It's the best you can put in there. I believe 5w-30 will work if you want to cheap out but if you want your tranny to last, go with amsoil in there
Hi, I followed your instructions. But after I did the light tap upside down when finished. The gear actuator is now stuck. Can you help?
haven't started because i was replacing engine clucth is brand new I also but a phantom grip lsd in
00sisco if it's grinding or noisy I would suggest pulling it back apart at least to double check. the input should be smooth and not hard to turn with new bearings while in neutral
You should wear nitrile gloves to protect your hands. Automotive fluids cause rheumatoid arthritis.
I'll agree with the gloves part. Doesn't hurt to prevent yourself from soaking up some inorganic chemicals through your skin if it can be prevented. I've started wearing gloves and it certainly makes for cleaner hands at the end of the day (and the following days after that) when it's all said and done.
Yeah i should wear gloves, if only the nitrile gloves were a little more durable, i tend to poke holes in them if i just look at the box.
Gloves have always been useless to me. I'll rip them on every job within minutes. Takes too long to fumble with them.
Part # for 1-2 shift fork ? I thought it was my sink rows until I watched your video. 2nd gear is half out. I can still use it but I have the apply pressure and hold it in gear or it pops out
Popping out of gear could be a couple of things, a broken shift fork is very possible as it causes not only grinding, but the selector ring to not engage fully on to the teeth of the gear. Worn or damaged dog teeth on the synchro ring could also cause this issue. Also the snap ring on the synchro could also cause it to pop out of gear.
As far as the actual part number goes, there were several variations of shift forks between the years, best bet is to take it apart and find which one you have. Majestic honda can narrow down the part number to your year if you look it up.
Thanks, good video. I just split the cases on an '89 D series transmission to check the synchros before install. They look great. BUT, question with the inner input shaft/mainshaft bearing.....the one that occasionally gets stuck in the case when pulling cases apart. Mine spins great, no noise....but how much "axial play" should that large bearing have? I suspect it gets taken up once the main shaft is installed and cases go together but can't tell whats too much? thanks!
it’s normal to have a small amount of axial endplay on the bearing but if you suspect it being bad I would suggest replacing it., there isn’t really a spec on those bearings to measure.
the only things I want to ask/recommend is where/how you sourced your parts and what sealants you used. I am not really having luck finding new input shafts or selector forks for the s20 trans. just repair sleeves.
I sourced all of my bearings from majestichonda.com or hondapartsdeals.com. However some parts are starting to become hard to find OEM and im starting to look into aftermarket kits as a result, but for the time being those two places usually have what i need. As far as sealant goes its just permatex ultra grey from the auto parts store. As far as hard parts go like shifter forks and main shafts your probably going to need to get those used as they are probably no longer available new.
wicked. dont take this down! lol. this was the most helpful video I have come across. liked, shared, subscribed, and saved to a playlist.
Hello there. Good video. i have a 2004 Civic coup and 2nd gear grinds everytime i put it in 2nd. is probably the syncro that is worn right?
thanks !
Daniel the synchronizers are usually the last parts that go bad. I've replaced very few over the years, and most of those needed replaced not because they were bad, but because the dog teeth were damaged because of grinding. usually grinding is caused by bent or broken shift forks and bad motor mounts.
u are awesome for this video man thanks alot
I just had a shop put in replacement 2nd and 3rd gear and a LSd in my transmission, It cost me 400 does that seem high? This is for labor only. The trans was not in the car.
It’s reasonable, maybe a little high but then again if the shop is charging 120 an hour and it took them 3 1/2 hours then it’s not too bad
thanks for replying back!
thanks a lot dude, great video man!!
My second gear pop no grinding I check the gear snd syncros seem to be good what can also cause that issue
Excellent video man, always wanted to find a detailed video on the transmission of slings from the inside, I would like to ask a question that I always wanted to know, I recently discovered that the forks of the S40 transmissions are made of steel and the S20 are made of aluminum, you know the exact difference of weight between these pieces? or the total difference in the full weight of the cartons? Thank you ... big hug Man ...
Lol man i wish i could tell you the weight differences between them, but there isnt much difference. Mainly people swap to the steel s40 cases for more reliability as the aluminum shift forks tend to break if you dont shift carefully. ive broken many of them in my drag car, once i swapped to steel i didnt have a single problem.
@@Cervan Many thanks Man, I'm going to exchange my long exchange A000 S20 for the B000 S40, a relieved steering wheel and a new clutch, I hope it gets more fun haha .. big hug from Brazil
When you put the counter shaft back together you said make make sure the tangs are lined up before you pound the gears the rest of the way on and there should be no up or down play. When I put mine back together I did it exactly as you said but for some reason there is a little up and down movement no matter how hard I pounded it on. Do the splines have any specific spot they go together?
You are a legend
Great video, by the way may I ask for an advice. i have a honda civic with a stock B16a transmission (manual) when Im in low gear (1st to 3rd gear) I hear a humming sound.. but when I go to 4th and 5th everything is smooth (no sound) by the way shifting to any gears are smooth. It could be the input shaft bearing? Thanks
Very cool video, thanks
All you did was take the main shaft apart and put it back you didn't use any new parts but input bearing?
These Front wheel drive trans look similar to motorcycle gears the cluster comes out with the input, If Its my car and I I'm into it this far I'm throwing a full kit at it, I did see you say the car was junk so I know where your coming from Brother.
Thanks for the great video man
Hey I had 3 little balls come flying out when I took out my case apart and I can’t figure out where they came from any ideas 💡
They go with springs under the three 14mm caps on the sides of the case
Cervan in the center of the springs or behind the springs
@@hectormlugo9631 they go into each hole ball bearings first, then spring and then the cap goes on. They are the shift fork detents. So the bearings should ride on the shift forks directly with spring pressure behind them.
Thanks for the video! Whats the trick to getting those diff bearings off?
Sadly i havent found a good trick for removing the diff bearings other than the standard split bearing separator and a press/BFH.
heat them with a torch.
Awesome vid man, anything special when switching to a LSD? Or does it just install the same as the OEM diff?
Rolando Abella the only thing you would have to do extra when installing an lsd is shim the diff bearings to get the correct clearances. other than that it's drop in. if your going for a high up build, you might consider checking the input shaft endplay as well.
Great information.👍
I’m working on a P20-A000 transmission S20
Awesome video thank you
After changing all the shift soleniods and neutral saftey switch would those bearings be next? Car is acting like its in neatural after driving around no CEL