Long live the D. No problems with my daily overbuilt 425hp y8 build. Just getting a bad wrap cause people dont check their oil levels and spin the bearing on piston 4 due to oil starvation cause it has and aluminum cast oil pan and holds less oil than the sheet metal pans. Oil light doesnt come on until your about 1.5 qts. Remeber its an oil pressure light not a oil level light, thats what the dip stick is for.
I’m working my y8 up all engine project, I’ve prepped it for heat and more power, biggest upgrade is a Skunk2 stage 2 cam an AEM fuel rail, aluminum dual core radiator, 3” exhaust and larger air intake, it needs some cpu tuning and some other parts I have to fit onto it still but at 200K this puppy needs the remainder of its life to be lived with some power pulsing through it and embarrassing people that spent many $1000’s of dollars more then I have or will! Haters will hate buddy, and if your brand isn’t Honda, then it’s not a guess that you hate them! GMC lovers hate Honda the most and most will never know the history behind that but look it up bc it’s a great story of how Honda embarrassed GMC in the late 50’s I think…
I really hope this is sarcasm lmao he called cometic “cosmetic” 🤦🏻♂️🥴 Also he said the y8 crank is the better crankshaft out of d series which is definitely false 😂
500 hp on a budget... just build the thing right and don’t worry about the budget, “doing it right saves from doing it twice!” Wise words from Honda Yoda
He means you dont need the fancy named or labels parts to build a strong reliable engine at the end of the day there just different grades of forged metal
Paladin ! I love your advice. Comments on this. Cheaply honda build motor theres no way build like this gona last hes doing wrong the best build are with expensive parts save headches us going to have issues to cheap of build
You seem to actually know a good amount of the fine details in building a SOHC turbo setup. I'm impressed at the little things you have pointed out in this video. Any honda turbo newb should take notes and use this guide.
I've always wanted to keep my D series engine. Simple and crazy reliable and the thought of having a Lil 100hp engine pushing 500 sounds soooo cool😂 thx for the lesson.
I had a bad experience with the cometic head gasket and switched to a fel pro on my turbo z6. Cometics always seem to be hit or miss. I always recommend 5w40 rotella t6 oil and you'll have great oil pressure
Ive got a y7 crank, acl race bearings, speedfactory rods, 320bhp @ 13psi, pump fuel. STOCK oil pump, daily driver 1 year, no problems. I dont believe the y7/y8s cranks are that bad as some of comments. Use what you got.
Darren Bradbury my friend ran 12psi on a stock d16, never touched the internals and never blew after two years of beating. With what you’ve done you either can stay tough and reliable or crank it up 2psi, just keep gauges w warning lights and possibly a low oil pressure shutdown switch wired to the ignition. That’ll save you a nice headache! Auto meter makes all u need
@@Dan_Ohhh sounds like me but had a greddy td05 turbo 15 psi 250 whp cylinder 4 rod did not like it on a d16z6 and used to blow out the block after 10 15 k miles but back the can get another motor for 100 bux lol
Z6 crank is better my guy..... the z6 has 2 holes for more lubrication thus lubricating the crank and main bearings more causing less bearings to spin. Y8 cranks spin bearings at hi rpm so keep your limiter around 7k. And with a z6 pump on a y8 or y series engine you will no longer have a dipstick hole because the y8 has the dipstick hole in the oil pump and the z6 or a6 have them in the block by the manifold.
@@ixresurrectll3951 z6 crank for sure if turbo is better, y8 is fine for low boost and n/a builds. But a z6 crank if your want all the jam with all the lubrication. I myself have a y7 crank with speedfactory long rods with ycp 75mm vitaras. You can use a y series 1 hole cranks just know that it is more prone to spin main bearings because of the lack of lubrication that the z6 crank provides with 2 holes per main.
Don't forget that Honda main and rod bearing fitment are numbered and color coded. It will be stamped on the bock and crank. No two bearings are the same. Fitting is highly recommended by a qualified engine builder. This is where you will lose all your oil pressure if you get it wrong. A buddy of mine wouldn't listen to my advice and he got only 200 miles out of his new build.
I've been looking for this exact video for a long time. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. I am so grateful and I appreciate you more than you know... Keep building brother...
Your oil pressure is determined by the clearances between the crankshaft journals and the main/rod bearings, plus any other accessories that use the oil pump for lubrication. (piston oil squirters, which I recommend for a turbo engine, plus you can lean out and still pull timing for fuel economy on the highway) Having only one oiling hole per crankshaft journal is a potential failure point, as your oil pressure reading may be high, but if your oil is too thick, which turbo builds will be using, the crankshaft oiling holes will become a restriction and starve the bearings. There's a reason you don't see Z6 motors spinning rods, whereas the Y8 will spin bearings occasionally. It's not the biggest concern but if we're talking reliability, you should definitely be considering a Z6 bottom end. I am interested in building a D15B bottom end with a D17A2 cylinder head with cam and valvesprings. You get coil-on-plug ignition and better swirl ports for low end torque. You just need to use Megasquirt or another standalone with it as Hondata is not an option.
@@g35tho11 yes if u can find a d16a6 motor that would be the best motor to get even over the z6 motor. The A6 vtec motor is better then them all in the D series fam. I had one I put in a eg hatch I had some yrs ago n that A6 motor was a beast man n it would hang with a B series coupe n he couldn't get away from me n my car was a auto LMFAO. Wish I would've kept that Lil d16a6
Dude love the commentary at the end, you can't lose racing with a single cam because even if they win there is no bragging rights so it's win win. I have a d16y8 in my civic that I'd love to do this with!
Hell yes! Did a tiny bit of research watched a couple videos asked a friend of mine who had a 10sec z6 and came up with these exact specs lol I have a d16y8 with a z6 head port n polished full valvetrain and 1off custom BC cam with WEB cam gear port matched to edelbrock victory x mani and skunk2 70mm tb. Y8 block has YCP pistons .5 over and sfr no notch rods king bearings y8 crank ported n shimmed oil pump capable of oiling up to and over 9k rpm no problem flex fuel with a 5858 and it’s my daily driver 97 ex coupe!
I thought the z6 crank was better cause at high rpms they need those oil passages to prevent contact. To make up for the pressure loss, you shim and port the oil pump.
Just curious why everyone that makes any good power on single cams all run z6 cranks and this guy says to use y8 I thought the y8 was bad for boost because of only having 1 oil port and they spin bearings alot
Yeah z six crank may be better at oiling the bearings but over time it loses oil pressure from a Z6 crank and the crank journals tend to crack and break
@@uhpixr reliable breakability maybe? if you like to spin bearings its the way to go. my cousin spun 3 sets in his 91 civic (d16z6 swapped) (also now mine) before he got pissed and jerked out the y8 crank and found a few z6 cranks in spokane wa. hasnt had an issue since and now i have two spare cranks for my car
Hi! I’m in the process of doing this D16Z6 build; YCP Vitara 75.5 pistons, No notch long rods so the compression is around 8:5.1 instead of 7:6.1 on the standard rods. I’m using the Ferrea 6000 competition intake and exhaust valves, BC springs on stock Z6 retainers and the comp cam stage 2. Z6 crank as I would prefer the extra oil port for the bearings.. head will be ported, polished and skimmed, valve angle 3 to 2, with the adjustable cam gear and cylinder protector.. and because of this video il either get a better oil pump or do the spring method to the z6 pump
I like most of what you said and I admittedly don't know squat about Hondas (I'm a 2zz builder), but sacrificing oil flow so you have a better guage reading doesn't sound like a good idea. To me it sounds like a recipe for a spun bearing when you spend lots of time at higher rpm. Back in the day when I was building 351 Clevelands we would put restrictors in the block to keep more oil on the crank by limiting the amount of oil to the valve train but I would never ever ever restrict oil flow to the crank and rod journals for a better guage reading. Shimming the regulator on the pump, however is something I've definitely done before and will do again, but I am sure to use billet pump internals when I do it as I've had stock pumps explode at high rpm. Good video, I enjoyed it. I'm studying for my first Honda build and I'd don't want to spend 2zz money on a d16.
I just want to say great video! But I also want to say go with a z6 crank the 2 oil ports will lower the oil pressure but the oil flow is better you want those bearings all nice and lubed up plus if you are going for a turbo build u will need can’t stress this enough a better oil pump most turbos need oil and you need that engine like I said all nice and lubed up!
I don't wanna tell you what to do, but I also do wanna tell you what to do because I dont wanna see you tear it all back apart. USE A Z6 CRANK IT WONT LOWER YOUR OIL PRESSURE MUCH. YOULL SPIN A BEARING SHOOTING FOR THAT KINDA POWER ON THE Y7/Y8 CRANK. Yes I have a y7 crank in mine but I also have my rev limiter set low and only pushing 250hp. Please use a z6 crank
"Under 5ps I didn't know that about the stock pressure sensor "i I'm glad I clicked this to listen to in the background, priceless information. Thanks hombre 😎💯👍
So I’m gonna be running this Victara 75 mm piston Speed factory Long rods no notch King bearings Oem crank bearings Arp head studs Skunk 2 alpha springs retainers Stock valves Delta 272 cam Ported head Rev 9 turbo kit with t3t4 turbo stage 4 clutch stock transmission what kind of power you think imma be able to make and what psi would be save it’s a d16z6
Hell yeah!!! Live it thanks so much for your time into this video. I have had a stock daily d16y8 5 speed for a few years. Got arp studs now sitting, an new clutch, an head gasket. Now to hunt the rods, pistons, an turbo. Nice to see an know what an how cheap to make my loved daily even more fun. Love peace and axle grease brother!!
Men, i have a d15b 2 step or 3 step vtec (i don't know how is te correct name) well, i hear someone say it about the crank is diferent at all d15 crank's, is it true?(sorry for my english)
Z6 crank is better and you dont need to shim the pump unless you port it. If you do decide to use a block guard make sure you bore the cylinders after it Is installed.
I have to say I really appreciate you!! I am trying to learn my Civic d16y5 so I can rebuild it and turbo it. I know nothing am a beginner you are awesome!!!!
After watching this video I'm subscribed you have given me motive to build my d16 but here in the UK we have d16v1 witch is 130bhp which come in an ep2 civic mk7
It's not every day I say this, but the comment section is right. I have personally experienced the phenomena in which cylinder 4 goes dry with the Y8 crank. The Z6 crank is, in my opinion, better due to the lubrication factor. Granted, some people have no issue with the Y8 crank, but your oil pump is already shimmed; there should be no worries with the Z6 crank.
Z6 crank is perfectly fine to use and wont lower you oil pressure anywhere near enough for u to worry about, and if you're worried about oil pressure you can shim the oil pump and problem solved, dont tell people not to use the z6 crank, it's much better than the y series crank in EVERY WAY
@@Autosauce I watched the whole thing, I always do, my response was just to the fact that you said it's better to run a y8 crank over a z6 crank which is completely not true at all, I'm actually in the midst of building my y8 block z6 crank, speed factory rods and ycp vitara pistons (.5 over) , I have a stock y8 head and intake manifold with b20 60mm tb, just waiting to order supertech springs and retainers and get a crower stage 2 cam, I'm broke too man that's the only reason it's not finished yet lol that and the fact that I want a built head so I wont need to run too much boost for the power I'm aiming for (350-400), oh and I'm going with a ebay kit too
Ive allways read and heard to use the z6 crank and run the oil pump settup that you are .... Wont run low oil pressure .... And oils the bearings way better no starvation ...
Facts... 👏👏 But the most reliable Honda is a All Motor Built Honda 12.0CR 76mm bore D15/d16 can make 200hp with 100 wet shot that's a reliable daily driver.. will take some time but very easy & most reliable.. I'm doing this All Motor build myself I'll make guides
I have the Honda vtec motor in my 2005 Saturn vue. It came from the factory like this. GM bought the whole Honda drivetrain and put them in 2005-2006 Saturn vue. Will these mods work in my motor⁉️⁉️
I hate hondas aswell but have to say there probably the best car ever made. The engines and transmissions are off the hook. Easy as hell to maintain and work on.
Love this and yes nothing better than walking the rich v8 guys with a Fwd Japanese 4 banger can't wait to build my civic I only had boosted eclipse & Tc never got around to boosting any of my Hondas but always wanted to! Maybe next year!
New to civic entirely i assume all d series blocks are essentially the same i am picking a turbo d16z6 making 10-15 psi on base tune rev limited at 5k rpm I'm looking to pull the engine and build it right wanna know for sure if all this will work for this engine
OEM MLS head gasket will be fine even on a big turbo build. Honda knew what they were doing. I've heard of guys popping Cometic gaskets on their turbo builds.
OK I watch your video and I feel like you’re the godfather of building Honda Civic‘s so my question to you is I have a 2003 Honda Civic LX it has the 1.7 L Engine (D17a1) I drive this car every day back-and-forth to work and I recently got piston slap because the EGR valve went bad sometime within the last three years and it built a lot of carbon up on top of the pistons and in the rings I am now as of today had everything tore down and I decided that I would like to put a cam in mine however I know nothing about them I need to know what cam to put in this engine and if I need to buy a tuner for it also Preferably I just want to be able to put a cam in it and get more power out of it if you have any information that you would like to share with me please let me know. I appreciate it have a good day!
he didn’t mention it but with h beam eagle rods you have to notch your block at the bottom of cylinder walls because they are so fat conspired to stock
Don't even consider a block guard. there's all sorts of reasons to avoid them, particularly that posting the block (aluminum bolts screwed through the block to rest on the cylinders directly) are significantly cheaper and almost as effective as a block guard without having to rebore, or go with a Cylinder Support system, which is warrantied to 500HP and can technically hold far more than that. The block guard doesn't even sit in-between. they can cause nightmare risks that just aren't worth the time of installing them.
Hey buddy. I’m gunna build a d16 turbo motor and haven’t been in the Honda game before. If I will be upgrading most parts does it matter which d16 I start with? If so which part number should I be looking for?
Just saw your channel good job. 2 things caught my attention 1 y8 crank has only one oil port per journal. Z6 has 2 ports per journal. Better lub no spined bearings. 2 stock retainers is a bad ideal for hi horsepower apps. Your right 500 you can make but for how long. Definitely not daily but good job bro keep posting always learning is key
Hey man Thanks for this Vid !! Very Informative I enjoyed it very much, and I understand what you said about People hating on Honda Owners it's so true. I have a Korean car and I would love to get into the Honda gang :-D is tough getting trying to get a decent Honda up here, my favorite one is Year: 2000 Honda Coupe again thanks for this vid man !
Its not that we have feelings about block guards, it's a matter of there junk and they distort your cylinder walls! For $395 you can have Jeff at CNC Werx CSS your deck giving you high hp capabilities and reliability by not distorting and splitting your cylinder walls. Its worth it....
I have skunk2 stage 2 camshaft Skunk2 cam gear skunk2 valve seals Skunk2 valve springs and retainers Ported and polished y8 head Any suggestions on what parts to go with for building the bottom end ??
What kind of transmission to use that will be reliable with that power? Axles etc too. I would like to build a 500hp light honda for a track car on 93 octane. I just now trying to learn the solid components I need. Say for a 95-97 civic. 👍
The generic t04e1 on my y8 was too laggy to justify the 7psi I was running. That power level with more response would be so awesome so I'm thinking t25 but the rod bearings cracked. I just swapped rod and main bearings really quick, gonna run it NA for a while to see how she fairs.
Currently i went and bought a 98honda civic dx all stock and im looking to do just a few lite weight upgrades to a better reliable car from a all bucket engine pieced together and im in cali so i have high NOX at 15 miles and it failed smog on that. Currently im checking timing, cleaning out injectors, knock sensor, change out thermostat and running it to hope clear out high NOX and get to pass smog. Smog higher than 487 no good im at 549 so any advice please let me know. Thanks
Before I use the bathroom I remember I need "oil pressure" before I go to bed I check if I have good "oil pressure" when I make food I check my "oil pressure". 🤣
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Long live the D. No problems with my daily overbuilt 425hp y8 build. Just getting a bad wrap cause people dont check their oil levels and spin the bearing on piston 4 due to oil starvation cause it has and aluminum cast oil pan and holds less oil than the sheet metal pans. Oil light doesnt come on until your about 1.5 qts. Remeber its an oil pressure light not a oil level light, thats what the dip stick is for.
All fact 👍
Still running strong? Any issues?
I’m working my y8 up all engine project, I’ve prepped it for heat and more power, biggest upgrade is a Skunk2 stage 2 cam an AEM fuel rail, aluminum dual core radiator, 3” exhaust and larger air intake, it needs some cpu tuning and some other parts I have to fit onto it still but at 200K this puppy needs the remainder of its life to be lived with some power pulsing through it and embarrassing people that spent many $1000’s of dollars more then I have or will! Haters will hate buddy, and if your brand isn’t Honda, then it’s not a guess that you hate them! GMC lovers hate Honda the most and most will never know the history behind that but look it up bc it’s a great story of how Honda embarrassed GMC in the late 50’s I think…
What do you have done or what did you
How much to build awhole d 15 y 8
As soon as you said people hate single cams and you love pissing them off with that smile on your face, I subscribed😄
Me too! :)
Same lik
Me to bro..😁😁😁
Same
Literally same lol
This guy knows way too much and I fully trust everything he says to me
Lmao
I really hope this is sarcasm lmao he called cometic “cosmetic” 🤦🏻♂️🥴
Also he said the y8 crank is the better crankshaft out of d series which is definitely false 😂
🤣
@@kawboykody how do u mo dis????
@@jesusfreak3587 the power is speaking out of your ass 😂
500 hp on a budget... just build the thing right and don’t worry about the budget, “doing it right saves from doing it twice!” Wise words from Honda Yoda
He means you dont need the fancy named or labels parts to build a strong reliable engine at the end of the day there just different grades of forged metal
Paladin ! I love your advice. Comments on this. Cheaply honda build motor theres no way build like this gona last hes doing wrong the best build are with expensive parts save headches us going to have issues to cheap of build
Some people have the dream of power without the budget to match haha
@@edwinrodriguez8852 You're a fucking idiot.
@@AM-wi6zo LMAO
You seem to actually know a good amount of the fine details in building a SOHC turbo setup. I'm impressed at the little things you have pointed out in this video. Any honda turbo newb should take notes and use this guide.
I Only Use Z6 cranks. Way Better Oiling at High RPM's
The D16 are the easiest engines to work...with incredible results
I've always wanted to keep my D series engine. Simple and crazy reliable and the thought of having a Lil 100hp engine pushing 500 sounds soooo cool😂 thx for the lesson.
I had a bad experience with the cometic head gasket and switched to a fel pro on my turbo z6. Cometics always seem to be hit or miss. I always recommend 5w40 rotella t6 oil and you'll have great oil pressure
I thought the t6 was more of a Subaru thing. Have people used it in Hondas too?
Shell helix hx8 5w40 and ceratec liky moly
Ive got a y7 crank, acl race bearings, speedfactory rods, 320bhp @ 13psi, pump fuel. STOCK oil pump, daily driver 1 year, no problems. I dont believe the y7/y8s cranks are that bad as some of comments. Use what you got.
Darren Bradbury my friend ran 12psi on a stock d16, never touched the internals and never blew after two years of beating. With what you’ve done you either can stay tough and reliable or crank it up 2psi, just keep gauges w warning lights and possibly a low oil pressure shutdown switch wired to the ignition. That’ll save you a nice headache! Auto meter makes all u need
@@Dan_Ohhh sounds like me but had a greddy td05 turbo 15 psi 250 whp cylinder 4 rod did not like it on a d16z6 and used to blow out the block after 10 15 k miles but back the can get another motor for 100 bux lol
Yea some of these guys are haters. I think their really mad at how much money they spent
Was everything else stock? Did you hone/bore the cylinders or do any resurfacing?
@@Dan_Ohhh😅
Z6 crank is better my guy..... the z6 has 2 holes for more lubrication thus lubricating the crank and main bearings more causing less bearings to spin. Y8 cranks spin bearings at hi rpm so keep your limiter around 7k. And with a z6 pump on a y8 or y series engine you will no longer have a dipstick hole because the y8 has the dipstick hole in the oil pump and the z6 or a6 have them in the block by the manifold.
I agree with this z6 is better but a y8 does work. I made 486whp on E85 with my full y8 swap.
Which one is more reliable?
@@ixresurrectll3951 z6 crank for sure if turbo is better, y8 is fine for low boost and n/a builds. But a z6 crank if your want all the jam with all the lubrication. I myself have a y7 crank with speedfactory long rods with ycp 75mm vitaras. You can use a y series 1 hole cranks just know that it is more prone to spin main bearings because of the lack of lubrication that the z6 crank provides with 2 holes per main.
Can't a y7 or y8 crank be modified so the bearing get more lubrication?
@@damonlemasters3424 you can champher the holes like hunter does on his cranks and shim the oil pump for more pressure
Don't forget that Honda main and rod bearing fitment are numbered and color coded. It will be stamped on the bock and crank. No two bearings are the same. Fitting is highly recommended by a qualified engine builder. This is where you will lose all your oil pressure if you get it wrong. A buddy of mine wouldn't listen to my advice and he got only 200 miles out of his new build.
Great content, just came across your channel. Glad to see there's still some cats making intelligent Honda content.
I'm gonna use cats more, I like that.
@@Rosskoflex yeaaaaa we like that 😂😂
It would be nice if more people ran cats, I love building cars but don't want to dump out a bunch of hydrocarbons I don't have to into the atmosphere
I've been looking for this exact video for a long time. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. I am so grateful and I appreciate you more than you know... Keep building brother...
Your oil pressure is determined by the clearances between the crankshaft journals and the main/rod bearings, plus any other accessories that use the oil pump for lubrication. (piston oil squirters, which I recommend for a turbo engine, plus you can lean out and still pull timing for fuel economy on the highway) Having only one oiling hole per crankshaft journal is a potential failure point, as your oil pressure reading may be high, but if your oil is too thick, which turbo builds will be using, the crankshaft oiling holes will become a restriction and starve the bearings. There's a reason you don't see Z6 motors spinning rods, whereas the Y8 will spin bearings occasionally. It's not the biggest concern but if we're talking reliability, you should definitely be considering a Z6 bottom end.
I am interested in building a D15B bottom end with a D17A2 cylinder head with cam and valvesprings. You get coil-on-plug ignition and better swirl ports for low end torque. You just need to use Megasquirt or another standalone with it as Hondata is not an option.
What about a d16a6 block ?
@@g35tho11 yes if u can find a d16a6 motor that would be the best motor to get even over the z6 motor. The A6 vtec motor is better then them all in the D series fam. I had one I put in a eg hatch I had some yrs ago n that A6 motor was a beast man n it would hang with a B series coupe n he couldn't get away from me n my car was a auto LMFAO. Wish I would've kept that Lil d16a6
@@g35tho11 do I have a d16a6 motor bro if so u wanna sale it
@@obezzyjohnson9680 hey so the d16a6 is a automatic VTEC? I
Dude love the commentary at the end, you can't lose racing with a single cam because even if they win there is no bragging rights so it's win win.
I have a d16y8 in my civic that I'd love to do this with!
Dam that’s a good point haha
It’s like wrestling a girl, if you win you lose and if you lose you lose
@@Hennysgarage good comeback lol
Henry Leach h
Great video bro !! your info is priceless and a lot of people know these types of things but won't share.... you my friend are a true informer. 💪👍
Hell yes! Did a tiny bit of research watched a couple videos asked a friend of mine who had a 10sec z6 and came up with these exact specs lol I have a d16y8 with a z6 head port n polished full valvetrain and 1off custom BC cam with WEB cam gear port matched to edelbrock victory x mani and skunk2 70mm tb. Y8 block has YCP pistons .5 over and sfr no notch rods king bearings y8 crank ported n shimmed oil pump capable of oiling up to and over 9k rpm no problem flex fuel with a 5858 and it’s my daily driver 97 ex coupe!
This guys like Linustech for VTEC 😉
I thought the z6 crank was better cause at high rpms they need those oil passages to prevent contact. To make up for the pressure loss, you shim and port the oil pump.
Just curious why everyone that makes any good power on single cams all run z6 cranks and this guy says to use y8 I thought the y8 was bad for boost because of only having 1 oil port and they spin bearings alot
Yeah that part is wrong. Z6 is better for more oiling to the bearings
Yeah z six crank may be better at oiling the bearings but over time it loses oil pressure from a Z6 crank and the crank journals tend to crack and break
He said this is for reliability 😅
@@uhpixr reliable breakability maybe? if you like to spin bearings its the way to go. my cousin spun 3 sets in his 91 civic (d16z6 swapped) (also now mine) before he got pissed and jerked out the y8 crank and found a few z6 cranks in spokane wa. hasnt had an issue since and now i have two spare cranks for my car
Hi! I’m in the process of doing this D16Z6 build; YCP Vitara 75.5 pistons, No notch long rods so the compression is around 8:5.1 instead of 7:6.1 on the standard rods. I’m using the Ferrea 6000 competition intake and exhaust valves, BC springs on stock Z6 retainers and the comp cam stage 2. Z6 crank as I would prefer the extra oil port for the bearings.. head will be ported, polished and skimmed, valve angle 3 to 2, with the adjustable cam gear and cylinder protector.. and because of this video il either get a better oil pump or do the spring method to the z6 pump
I like most of what you said and I admittedly don't know squat about Hondas (I'm a 2zz builder), but sacrificing oil flow so you have a better guage reading doesn't sound like a good idea. To me it sounds like a recipe for a spun bearing when you spend lots of time at higher rpm. Back in the day when I was building 351 Clevelands we would put restrictors in the block to keep more oil on the crank by limiting the amount of oil to the valve train but I would never ever ever restrict oil flow to the crank and rod journals for a better guage reading. Shimming the regulator on the pump, however is something I've definitely done before and will do again, but I am sure to use billet pump internals when I do it as I've had stock pumps explode at high rpm. Good video, I enjoyed it. I'm studying for my first Honda build and I'd don't want to spend 2zz money on a d16.
I just want to say great video! But I also want to say go with a z6 crank the 2 oil ports will lower the oil pressure but the oil flow is better you want those bearings all nice and lubed up plus if you are going for a turbo build u will need can’t stress this enough a better oil pump most turbos need oil and you need that engine like I said all nice and lubed up!
Facts
I don't wanna tell you what to do, but I also do wanna tell you what to do because I dont wanna see you tear it all back apart. USE A Z6 CRANK IT WONT LOWER YOUR OIL PRESSURE MUCH. YOULL SPIN A BEARING SHOOTING FOR THAT KINDA POWER ON THE Y7/Y8 CRANK. Yes I have a y7 crank in mine but I also have my rev limiter set low and only pushing 250hp. Please use a z6 crank
Simplegarageworks , well said sir. STRAIGHT forward and to the point......
Daaamn we are learning so much on these damn chats/comments 💯💯🇵🇷💯💪💪
Greatvideo of!
Or maybe just port and shim and itll hold🤷♂️
"Under 5ps I didn't know that about the stock pressure sensor "i I'm glad I clicked this to listen to in the background, priceless information. Thanks hombre 😎💯👍
So I’m gonna be running this
Victara 75 mm piston
Speed factory Long rods no notch
King bearings
Oem crank bearings
Arp head studs
Skunk 2 alpha springs retainers
Stock valves
Delta 272 cam
Ported head
Rev 9 turbo kit with t3t4 turbo stage 4 clutch stock transmission what kind of power you think imma be able to make and what psi would be save it’s a d16z6
Hell yeah!!!
Live it thanks so much for your time into this video.
I have had a stock daily d16y8 5 speed for a few years. Got arp studs now sitting, an new clutch, an head gasket. Now to hunt the rods, pistons, an turbo.
Nice to see an know what an how cheap to make my loved daily even more fun.
Love peace and axle grease brother!!
SOOOOO HAPPY 🙂🙂🤩🤩🤩 WE BACK TO TALKING ABOUT THE SOHC !!!! LIL ENGINES DO NOT PLAY
...... can't wait to boost my D15b 3stage 💯💯💯💪💪💪💪
Men, i have a d15b 2 step or 3 step vtec (i don't know how is te correct name) well, i hear someone say it about the crank is diferent at all d15 crank's, is it true?(sorry for my english)
Z6 crank is better and you dont need to shim the pump unless you port it. If you do decide to use a block guard make sure you bore the cylinders after it Is installed.
If done right Devcon works perfect. By the way Shimming the pump has nothing to do with pressure it add volume .
Shimming pump adds pressure
Porting adds volume..
I have to say I really appreciate you!! I am trying to learn my Civic d16y5 so I can rebuild it and turbo it. I know nothing am a beginner you are awesome!!!!
High school kid and my first car is a 90 ED7 ef hatch si! All of these videos are going to come in handy
Keep that car long as u can and have fun kid, that’s an amazing ride
After watching this video I'm subscribed you have given me motive to build my d16 but here in the UK we have d16v1 witch is 130bhp which come in an ep2 civic mk7
@roryjones u got Instagram add me 4EVRGRINDAUTOCLUB
Experience is knowledge gained the best way. You have for sure! Been there, done that works hey? Great video, great advice 👍🏻
makes perfect sense to me ... that too is my mantra, budget build that's built the smart way ...
It's not every day I say this, but the comment section is right. I have personally experienced the phenomena in which cylinder 4 goes dry with the Y8 crank. The Z6 crank is, in my opinion, better due to the lubrication factor. Granted, some people have no issue with the Y8 crank, but your oil pump is already shimmed; there should be no worries with the Z6 crank.
I hear y8 cranks spin bearings at high rpm due to only having 1 oil port
Facts.
My 944 only has 1 and it spins bearings ☹️
True
Mine did.
Z6 FTW
Z6 crank is perfectly fine to use and wont lower you oil pressure anywhere near enough for u to worry about, and if you're worried about oil pressure you can shim the oil pump and problem solved, dont tell people not to use the z6 crank, it's much better than the y series crank in EVERY WAY
I would recommend watching the rest of the video because I explain it.
@@Autosauce I watched the whole thing, I always do, my response was just to the fact that you said it's better to run a y8 crank over a z6 crank which is completely not true at all, I'm actually in the midst of building my y8 block z6 crank, speed factory rods and ycp vitara pistons (.5 over) , I have a stock y8 head and intake manifold with b20 60mm tb, just waiting to order supertech springs and retainers and get a crower stage 2 cam, I'm broke too man that's the only reason it's not finished yet lol that and the fact that I want a built head so I wont need to run too much boost for the power I'm aiming for (350-400), oh and I'm going with a ebay kit too
@@Autosauce I will be making videos too, it'll be my first attempt at youtube vids so hopefully all goes well
For reliability, z6 crank ftw! Gotta keep those bearings lubed or your pressure won't matter.
Thank you for the informative video I've been looking for a video like this and now I'm a subscriber.
The oil pump shim was a good idea. I have two I'll have to try it with one.
You are very informative and knowledgeable. Please keep putting out single cam vids like this
Thanks much and im following you to the bowling alley so we can gives these dudes a stroll to the park...
Ive allways read and heard to use the z6 crank and run the oil pump settup that you are .... Wont run low oil pressure .... And oils the bearings way better no starvation ...
Good video buddy and keep up the good work and hope all is well with you and your family and keep living life to the fullest
Subbed 👍🏻 looking forward to seeing a single cam build, good shit dude 🔥
Great job I'm going f22 with one build and not sure yet about the second one yet.
this is the most American way to do it. Great work man!
"I like making people upset."
I feel you there too, people talk so much shit about Hondas but I will never sell my EF hatch.
Preach lol!!
Facts... 👏👏 But the most reliable Honda is a All Motor Built Honda 12.0CR 76mm bore D15/d16 can make 200hp with 100 wet shot that's a reliable daily driver.. will take some time but very easy & most reliable.. I'm doing this All Motor build myself I'll make guides
I like your philosophy. Well done and cool video. Keep doing what you love you are great in it.
I have the Honda vtec motor in my 2005 Saturn vue. It came from the factory like this. GM bought the whole Honda drivetrain and put them in 2005-2006 Saturn vue. Will these mods work in my motor⁉️⁉️
You could do the same with a rods pistons R18.
The older D series cars dissolved away years ago up north...
Love this guy you saved my budget and made it easy thanks!!!!
I don’t have a Honda, I have a dsm but I will sub to you because I love your build
This is a really good video I’m thinking on building a d16z6 since I’m getting a Honda Civic 2000 Sedan as a first car
Doing this swap right now, did you ever do it ? It’s a bitch lol.
I hate hondas aswell but have to say there probably the best car ever made. The engines and transmissions are off the hook. Easy as hell to maintain and work on.
Love this and yes nothing better than walking the rich v8 guys with a Fwd Japanese 4 banger can't wait to build my civic I only had boosted eclipse & Tc never got around to boosting any of my Hondas but always wanted to! Maybe next year!
What kind of ECU? Do you use?
I always enjoy watching on your channel. However, does doing this decrease daily driver dependability? Or should I be okay?
Wonder why he didn't respond
Wouldn’t it be a good idea to lower the compression ratio with a thicker headgasket? Considering you’re boosting it?
Best single cam engine,I will recommend the d16a9 jdm.already has a perfect compression for a turbo 8.8-1.
New to civic entirely i assume all d series blocks are essentially the same i am picking a turbo d16z6 making 10-15 psi on base tune rev limited at 5k rpm I'm looking to pull the engine and build it right wanna know for sure if all this will work for this engine
Yo I can I use these parts without turboing straight motor wht kinda power would I get
It would make less then stock. Rods are heavy and pistons are low compression.
With the Brian crower valve spring and stock retainers, how much rpm can it hold reliably
Budget spite build go crazy ❤
There is no s in cometic.
Yea man kills me to it's got a cosmetic headgasket lol my friend always sayn that ish its Cometic
Josh Dane like duck tape 😉
OEM MLS head gasket will be fine even on a big turbo build. Honda knew what they were doing. I've heard of guys popping Cometic gaskets on their turbo builds.
@@GrimReaper... Or "headers" on your honda. Unless u got a j-series 😂
Can block guards handle 500-650hp? D series specifically. I've just read negative comments from CSS users. TIA for the inputs
Quiet, head down and walkem😀😀 Love this cat
OK I watch your video and I feel like you’re the godfather of building Honda Civic‘s so my question to you is I have a 2003 Honda Civic LX it has the 1.7 L Engine (D17a1) I drive this car every day back-and-forth to work and I recently got piston slap because the EGR valve went bad sometime within the last three years and it built a lot of carbon up on top of the pistons and in the rings I am now as of today had everything tore down and I decided that I would like to put a cam in mine however I know nothing about them I need to know what cam to put in this engine and if I need to buy a tuner for it also Preferably I just want to be able to put a cam in it and get more power out of it if you have any information that you would like to share with me please let me know. I appreciate it have a good day!
he didn’t mention it but with h beam eagle rods you have to notch your block at the bottom of cylinder walls because they are so fat conspired to stock
What you guys think of a light crank pulley for a turbo set up
What cam do you recommend? And should i use stock valves? Currently building a d16z6 block.
Love the message at the end ❤💪🏾💪🏾
What block do you recommend? I have a CRX Si and getting a y8 head and mani this weekend.
@autosauce curious what kind of power would you be looking at without this setup being turbo’d?
D14 parts? I want to build one with the smallest engine
Don't even consider a block guard. there's all sorts of reasons to avoid them, particularly that posting the block (aluminum bolts screwed through the block to rest on the cylinders directly) are significantly cheaper and almost as effective as a block guard without having to rebore, or go with a Cylinder Support system, which is warrantied to 500HP and can technically hold far more than that.
The block guard doesn't even sit in-between. they can cause nightmare risks that just aren't worth the time of installing them.
Hey buddy. I’m gunna build a d16 turbo motor and haven’t been in the Honda game before. If I will be upgrading most parts does it matter which d16 I start with? If so which part number should I be looking for?
I would like to Build a D16 Engine with a Z6 Block with a Y8 Head for Either a Turbo Setup or All Motor. Do I use the Y8 or Z6 Crank?
Just saw your channel good job. 2 things caught my attention 1 y8 crank has only one oil port per journal. Z6 has 2 ports per journal. Better lub no spined bearings. 2 stock retainers is a bad ideal for hi horsepower apps. Your right 500 you can make but for how long. Definitely not daily but good job bro keep posting always learning is key
Hey man Thanks for this Vid !! Very Informative I enjoyed it very much, and I understand what you said about People hating on Honda Owners it's so true. I have a Korean car and I would love to get into the Honda gang :-D
is tough getting trying to get a decent Honda up here, my favorite one is Year: 2000 Honda Coupe again thanks for this vid man !
Its not that we have feelings about block guards, it's a matter of there junk and they distort your cylinder walls! For $395 you can have Jeff at CNC Werx CSS your deck giving you high hp capabilities and reliability by not distorting and splitting your cylinder walls. Its worth it....
Any updates on this build? Would you tweak anything or is everything spot on?
Question did you do a d16y8 block and a d16z6 head? If so did the y8 arp bolts work just fine?
I have skunk2 stage 2 camshaft
Skunk2 cam gear skunk2 valve seals
Skunk2 valve springs and retainers
Ported and polished y8 head
Any suggestions on what parts to go with for building the bottom end ??
What kind of transmission to use that will be reliable with that power? Axles etc too. I would like to build a 500hp light honda for a track car on 93 octane. I just now trying to learn the solid components I need. Say for a 95-97 civic. 👍
LOL @ 'cosmetic' head gasket. I think you meant "Cometic," MLS gasket. Just messin with you bro. Some good info on here on a budget long block build
Iv lost my way in the honda sauce
Soooo, I have a 1991 civic ex, could I do this on that? (First car btw)
Yes, As Long as its a D16 You can do it with the same parts he used 🙂
Nice video. I an already doing 90% of this to my d16 in a fast and furious danny yamato honda civic build.🤜🤛👍👍👍👍😁😎
The generic t04e1 on my y8 was too laggy to justify the 7psi I was running. That power level with more response would be so awesome so I'm thinking t25 but the rod bearings cracked. I just swapped rod and main bearings really quick, gonna run it NA for a while to see how she fairs.
I laughed hard at the end how much you love to piss people off ... in fun way not a mean way. Your the man haha
Thank you for all the information man,
last part of your video made me motivated to do this build in the future, you got a new sub.
#savetheSOHC
Currently i went and bought a 98honda civic dx all stock and im looking to do just a few lite weight upgrades to a better reliable car from a all bucket engine pieced together and im in cali so i have high NOX at 15 miles and it failed smog on that. Currently im checking timing, cleaning out injectors, knock sensor, change out thermostat and running it to hope clear out high NOX and get to pass smog.
Smog higher than 487 no good im at 549 so any advice please let me know. Thanks
Before I use the bathroom I remember I need "oil pressure" before I go to bed I check if I have good "oil pressure" when I make food I check my "oil pressure". 🤣
I know i am late but do you have a Link for all the parts you used
I have a full parts list for this build I can send it’s $25 just hit me up on Instagram.