Building a D16 Bottom End
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2020
- Assembling my D16Y7 block with SpeedFactory Rods and Vitara Pistons.
This setup requires no notching and should be good for about 400 HP.
Link to SpeedFactory kit: bit.ly/39wrEOu
Instagram: ej6nicky
Songs Used:
Jim Yosef - Fall With Me
Stereotype - TOKYO 2099
Beats Provided By freebeats.io
Produced By White Hot - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Hey dude shout out from Jamaica, thank God for guys like you on TH-cam teachers of a billion arts. Respect
Just came across your channel. Love the videos so far! Can’t wait to see the finished product brother 🤘🏽🤘🏽
Just finished building my d16 and it spins with the same amount of effort, I’m glad it’s normal ,at first I thought it was too tight ,I guess I was just use to how it spun with broken in 100k bearings
Looking good Nick! Keep it up homie 🙌🏼
This is awesome!!!
Good work 👍
Thanks man now ima watch this every day till I gain confidence and donit myself xuz my car is parked my Kranz bearings r bad
Great video
Asking why did you put gap the 1st piston rings ty! My 1st car is a honda civic so learning engine rebuilds help.
Nice!
I have that same piston ring compression tool to insert the pistons into the block and it sucks. I cracked a ring because of this
Hey Nick, do you know if the piston positions and the rods notches are the same for D16Y8 and do you know if the two notches have to be on the one site of the rods like at the video?
hi is .018 top ring and .020 2nd ring,, good for my stock y8?? cuz i want to copy your build ,, cuz i see on vitara build spec is .020-.024 mm for the top ring and 2nd ring,,, what is the best spec for me plss help im not going to turbo my car anyway thank you
I am building a d16 turbo vitara for my 24 hours of lemons car, and the piston to wall clearance worst case is 0.0059" before a mild hone which is needed for the new rings. I'm wondering if we just send it loose, or if we should spend the extra cash to bore it out, and get 75.5mm pistons?
Send it loose. You might get some piston slap but as long as the rings are gapped properly it’ll be fine
what torque specs did you use for your main bearing girdle
Good vídeo.. I'm missing the continuation, to see what you've done with the head.. Thanks..
th-cam.com/video/1xBHSqsJxtA/w-d-xo.html here’s the link to the next video
@@NickSabella great!! Thanks a lot.. 🤗
What did you do about the one bearing that was to tight and did you reuse the bolts and what torque spec
I just sent it with the tight clearance. I reused the cradle bolts but I used new rod bolts. I can’t remember the torque specs I used for the rods because it was in the instructions that came with them. I used 2 steps to 38 ft lbs for cradle
Hey quick question for stock pistons do you still need to gap the rings???
Yes
I have a d16z6 what would the piston gaps be for the top and second ring for stock rebuild?
Sorry I don't know the answer to that. Maybe someone else here can chime in. If you can find a service manual, it'll tell you
Like the video, very informative. How do you know what measurement your rings are supposed to be at?
If I remember correctly, I think I copied a boostedboiz or PFI speed video. Figured they know their stuff
I have a y7 im putting a turbo kit on and when i pulled the oil pan there was a bunch of copper flakes in the pan. The oil also had what looked to be aluminum flakes when you shine a light in it. The car doesn’t have any noticeable knock though. Only 100k on it everything is factory. Is there anything copper in the valve-train that it could be coming from?
I pulled the valve cover and there are wear marks in between every lobe. The rest of the cam looks good. Definitely where the shavings are coming from. Any idea what would cause this?
@@UserName-xf3zj oil starvation I would guess. Maybe swap out the oil pump to be safe. Copper colored shavings sound like rod bearings though.
@@NickSabella i pulled the rod bearing caps and they weren’t in bad shape at all. Im not even sure the shavings were coming from the cam at this point. It makes no sense. If it was just minor shavings id just send it but there were big flakes in the pan. Will probably have to get sent out to a machine shop :/
What Are You Measuring on The Plasti Gauge I Don’t See What Your Measuring
Aren't you supposed to remove the plastic from the journals before lubing up and putting in the crank?
There was no plastic on the journals when they were installed
Awesome video. just curious, what did you do with the main bearing that was too tight? did you obtain a different bearing to bring it into spec?
Nope I sent it as is. So far so good 🤷♂️
@@NickSabella haha fair enough. If you had to adjust rather than just putting it in, what would you do? I have always wondered what the correct course of action would be
@@JamesOutland I would move the bearing to another spot and see if that spot was tight, if it was I would contact the company I bought the bearings from and get a replacement. If that first journal was still tight after moving the bearing, I would have to have the crank machined to fit better.
@@NickSabella thanks for taking the time to reply. Love your videos!
is the piston ring 1 and two that you fitted are they oem spec or is it setup for boost cause I'm trying to set minds up to oem.
Those are set up for boost
can you tell me oem or specs I need for oem if you can.
If my d16 have scoring can I use it or do I need to bore it
Depends on how bad it is. Rule of thumb is if you can't feel it when you scratch it with your nail it's in spec.
what if my crank plastigauge measurements all came out .001? i see that you have one that measured tight of .001 but left it.
The engine will.lock or knock if left at 000.1 on all of them thats the main seal erea u want that one close to tight as possible
@@tragicktragedyhaze8398 thank you so much man
Did you ever do the head? Any video on that?
Yes!
th-cam.com/video/1xBHSqsJxtA/w-d-xo.html
How do you know how much to gap your rings?
I followed recommendations from a boostedboiz video
Dude, what wing is that on the 6th gen coupe??
Aiktuning duckbill
Was this a kit? Im wanting to build my y7 so I can boost it any recommendations?
Yes the pistons, rods, and rings were a kit from speedfactory racing. The rest was purchased separately
And I do recommend it
Did u over size your piston or stock? I know speedfactory also have 75.5mm piston
Nope just stock pistons. You can hear a little piston slap sometimes but not bad
Stock crank , you honed it some. You get occasional piston slap? Only on cold starts or?
Im sorry for the stupid question, but did you gap the piston oil control rings too?
Nope
@@NickSabella I saw a few forums for boost ring gaps. I saw around 0.020 for the 1st ring and 0.023 for the 2nd ring. Did you use that?
@@lawnmower6591 I did 0.018 1st ring and 0.020 2nd ring
hey man what year is your honda civic
98
How long did it take you to rebuild it
I definitely took my time, I picked at it for about a year. Actual man hours though probably like 24
First I can e for the fa20 rebuild now I here for a y8 build 😂
That's awesome! Glad my videos are helping
what rings are those ? what brand
They were included in the kit from speedfactory which is linked in the description
Did you balanced the crank with the new pistons and rods?
Nope
Any issues with that build?
@@centralvalley9534 Nope still going strong 💪
What do you think of a vms light crank pulley for a turbo setup?
@@centralvalley9534 I've never ran one so I'm not sure. My honest opinion is that any gains from it would be minimal and I probably wouldn't do it unless the stock pulley was damaged and needed to be replaced.
will this kit work on a d16a6 or 88-91 ZC sohc? also having trouble finding this kit in stock.
I believe so. And yeah I had trouble finding it in stock as well. I just checked back periodically. The first time I found it in stock, I bought it.
Did you bore this build?
No just honed it
Dude fix ur fkn camera