@@RustBeltAuto quick question while its fresh on your mind. Those two shims(shim and convex washer it think) what order did they sit on the shaft? Thanks
@@MrStinky2011 you usually want the taper pointing down towards the bearing. I may have pointed one up towards the gear, but I don't think it matters much. It will do it's job either way I think. Pointing the taper towards the washer might be kinda wrong.
Just FYI the washers were installed backwards when putting the transmission back together. The spring washer should be against the input shaft bearing and the regular washer on top. When the washer set was pulled off at 19:12, the regular washer was on the bottom, so it was installed against the Input Shaft Bearing, while the spring washer was on top, which is against the main shaft. at 8:24 when the washers were pulled off, the darker one (spring washer) is against the input shaft bearing race.
Yo man my name is Ryan I live in Columbus Ohio and just bought a 99 civic coupe with the same motor and transmission and I wanna copy your build. Also I want to give you props for really really being a master of your craft. I love how you buy mostly budget, stuff of Craigslist and you said you used injectors from a different car and an e85 sensor. Honestly man your style is just perfect man. I can't thank you enough for the content and the information. I love when you retune your car and you knew the first tuner wasnt in the know. Just great man thank you so much for real. If I was in canada I would be proud to pay you for your time to do some of the work I was less comfortable with. Thanks again for real!
Thankyou so much for making this video for everybody. i recently had an issue with my 1996 civic. I heard a horrible grinding coming from the transmission area. It just started doing this out of the blue one morning. My first thought was that it's an alternator/AC/idler pulley. Then I noticed that while shifting, the clutch would engage when my foot had only lifted up a half inch or less from the floor. The grinding sound was present whether I was pressing on the clutch pedal or not...it was just always grinding. By the time I left work that day, there was no pedal resistance and I was unable to shift in to gears while the car was running. Although the pedal did return back if I took my foot off it. I had to get towed. Anyway, I decided that maybe it's the clutch and that I would replace the clutch, and throwout bearing and that should solve the issues. But now, after having the tranny off, I noticed that the input shaft seems to "click" when I turn it back and forth by hand. i cannot tell if this is because loose ball bearings (like in your situation) or something else. I was going to take it apart. The car has 205k miles on it. Any advice? Apologies for the long winded post and thankyou.
Did the clutch disc crack, or come apart? did any chunks of the clutch, or pressure plate fall out when you unbolted them? Is there anything stuck inside the pressure plate springs? Are all the pressure plate fingers for the spring in the same position, or are some sticking out farther than others?
@@RustBeltAuto The clutch disc was not cracked and didn't come apart. The pressure plate fingers all seem to be aligned and looks normal. The throwout bearing for sure needs replaced because it sounds very "dry" as I spin the center race part of it. there seemed to be a definite hydraulic issue because the pedal felt weak and I was unable to shift gears with the engine started, but I COULD shift with the engine shut off. As a matter of fact, to move it from driveway to back yard (after tow truck dropped it off) I would shut it off, put it in first, then start it and it would roll (forward or reverse) no matter if the pedal was depressed or not.
You probably have a master, or slave cylinder issue, or both, if the clutch and pressure plate is okay. The noise is from, I don't know what, because I don't have my hands on it. If the transmission is in neutral, it should be smooth.
@@RustBeltAuto That's why I'm worried and I feel that I need to look inside the transmission. Even in neutral, I could hear the grinding. Again, the noise reminded me of a dry bearing spinning. Forgive the dumb question, but the input shaft is still spinning when the tranny is in neutral correct?
@@Doomzdayxx yes. Engine running, clutch engaged, input shaft always spins. Sounds like you have more than one problem. If you peel the rubber boot back on the slave, is there fluid there. Is fluid low for clutch, or really black?
Sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an instagram account..? I stupidly lost the account password. I love any help you can give me
@Juan Cassius I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Juan Cassius HOLY **** IT ACTUALLY WORKED! I literally hacked my instagram password after ~ 40 minutes of using the site. Had to pay 15 bucks but definitely worth the price :) Thanks so much, you saved my account !
Very nice instructional video with plenty of explanations, and straightforward to the point of disassembling the entire transmission. I had to tear my trans down in my Dirt Mini Stock Car Honda so I could weld the spider gears so it pulls both tires 🤘😂. Anyways your video served it’s purpose thanks dude!
My front input shaft bearing (ball bearing) blew up 16 years ago, replaced it, I also assumed the tapered roller bearings don't fail, but front mainshaft tapered bearing cage breaking it is THE cause of the repair I am currently in the middle of. I'm just replacing that one bearing for a "quick" fix to get it back on the road, but I do have a spare transmission that needs synchros, when the time is right, I will do a full rebuild on that one, I definitely will be replacing all of the bearings. When the bearing failed, it took the "uber important" plastic oil channel with it, so I used the one from my spare. Nissan does not sell them anymore (don't have a Civic). Whether or not it's the same case with Honda, internal transmission parts are not a priority with auto makers, so you're stuck trying to find a donor to replace parts in a lot of cases. Don't lose anything, and try not to break anything. Don't drive the car if your transmission is making bearing noise, chattering or stumbling in gear. Drop the transmission and fix it asap or you will end up breaking more shit, anything from plastic parts to the case itself.
Was the LSD pretty pricy? Dude, you should be making a few youtube dollars soon... Don't sell any of your body parts, sell some of the walking canes or maybe just be a male gigolo!
Thank you. I have to tackle a very noisy input shaft bearing on a 200k mile d16a6 transmission. At 1st I did a full clutch job thinking it was the throwout bearing. Wish I knew this prior.
I did a clutch job cause my clutch was destroyed at 300k, soon after I did the clutch one of the bearings went and it makes a knocking sound till I press the clutch in. This is the next step while adding an lsd
Great video I own a 1995 Acura integra gsr and when I try to put my car in reverse it feels like it doesn’t want to go in, yet when it does engage it does not go out of reverse unless I drive a little bit backwards then it pops out of reverse, I don’t know what can that be
Me neither. If I was to guess, I would say it is not all the way in neutral (adjustment issue, worn bushings), The clutch is not fully disengaged, or there is a bent shift fork.
At 22:32 i put that bolt in when it wasn't in neutral. Do you think i broke something? When i put it in now and it is in neutral the transmission won't shift at all.
@@RustBeltAuto it shifts fine in to all gears until i get almost bottomed out on that bolt i think I'm just not lining something in there up right or maybe was there a gasket on it?
@@RustBeltAuto thanks i appreciate your responses. I'm definitely a newbie. I wish i could respond with a picture. There is a little nub on that fork that hits the bottom of the plug when it's all the way down. I'm sure I can remedy this. I'll let you know how later
i do like 1/3 1/4 kick in low gears because sometimes the rpms drop so low it feels like im going to stall out shifting in to second in some cases like going uphill. stock b7 block uknown transmission commuter car. dont get a nice full kick till about 3rd
I just replaced all the bearings and seals in my transmission, all the gears shift great but my 1st and 2nd gear makes a loud grinding noise while under a load...
I've replaced my input shaft bearing and mainshaft bearing. Do you happen to know what my input shaft endplay tolerance should be? Extremely helpful video
when i turn the car on it sounds really loud, and when i press the clutch pedal down the sound goes away. (it sounds like is scratching). is it time for a new clutch disk or is it the clutch master??
@@Shahid_Meh i think it was the input shaft bearing inside the transmission. i did the whole clutcg kit brand and still made noise. its a bad transmission.
The part I need to see the most is skipped. But does the input shaft bearing go in a specific way? Or does it matter? Like does it have a right side up is what I'm trying to ask
At the 21:12 min mark, you spun the carrier. All sounded smooth. When I spin my carrier(after replacing all the bearings) I believe it is catching ever-so-slightly on the bottom gear of the secondary shaft. It doesn't spin as smoothly as yours did. There's supposed to be NO DRAG, correct? It's as if the carrier is raised ever-so-slightly higher than it should be. Would you suggest sanding the shim down a bit to get more clearance, and allow the carrier to sit a tad bit lower in the case?
If it did not do that before you took it apart, something may not be seated all the way. Like the carrier. Double check your work. make sure you don't have an extra shim laying around. Make sure the rings are centered. No bent forks. Best advice i can give
@@RustBeltAuto it's gotta be the carrier. Maybe the bearing on that side wasn't seated all the way in? I out that shim back in. Hmmmmmmm, I don't know. Heu, any idea the clearance between the carrier hear and the bottom of the secondary gear ring? It's rubbing on those 10 outer carrier bolts that are just slightly raised from the surface of the carrier
@@RustBeltAuto Think the bearing isn't seated all the way down onto the carrier? The whole assembly seems to be seated in the case. I'll try to press that bearing a bit further down on the carrier. You've been most helpful I cannot thank you enough.
It did turn nice, but there was no end play at all. I needed to make sure there was some, because I put in a new carrier. If you are using your original carrier, you probably don't need to worry to much about that.
My del sol d16 transmission must be making the noise from that bearing. Car has 160k miles and is 30 years old. How much would a bearing replacement or rebuild cost like that?
So I broke the plastic oil guide tube while trying to get thr needle bearing out .. I've looked everywhere and they are discontinued.. can anyone help ?
Hey man, i'm having a noise when I drive my civic that sounds like rubbing while in gear, sometimes it makes a whining noise while accelerating. Any idea what this could be? Transmission fluid is good.
I am doing the same rebuild and upon putting it all back together I noticed that second gear has bad drag take some force to get it to spin unlike the other gears. I noticed that the second gear was a little stiffer than the first but hoped this was normal. Took the countershaft apart a couple of times to see if maybe I assembled it wrong, I think I’ve lubbed everything properly but when it’s time to press the other gears down it’s like it’s pressing second gear down so hard that it’s adding more drag to it 🤔 I need some advice because I swear I’ve done everything right but I still gave drag
Maybe whack the outside of the case where the main, and countershafts are with a dead blow hammer, after it is assembled to see if it is binding from assembly? Make sure shift forks are not bent? Really I have no idea. It should feel about the same in every gear I think. You drive the thing, maybe it will loosen up, Maybe ask those know it all's on the d16, or Hondatech website?
I have a question since you work on transmissions regularly. A little background. I have a 90 CrX Si and I bought an aftermarket 4.7 final drive. The stock one is 4.250. I want to install a 92-00 civic d series 5th gear set up to lower the RPMs as close as possible to stock for freeway. Will that gear set up drop in or work at all with the cable transmission?
@@RustBeltAuto let me be more thorough. The transmission is a USDM cable D16 transmission out of a 90 CRX Si. The 5th gear set I want to put in is from the 92-00 Civic d series hydro transmission
@@RustBeltAuto I bought a dead blow to see if I can get it loose. You think ill be fine if I try hitting the end of the input shaft? I dont think a 24oz dead blow will damage it but... what do I know
@@RustBeltAuto also, before i started taking it apart the shaft would turn and had no play. I just wanted to go through it to make sure everything was okay before I put it in
Hey old video doubt you'll reply but I am looking for my first car and found a 2005 LX SE USA spec 180k kms and the input shaft bearing sounds very bad. Car sat for 2 years and has black oil, should I buy it replace clutch and input shaft bearing and drive it for 5-10 years? I'm just worried about how bad the clutch feels (engages at the end of the pedal)
Every time I let off the gas the gears grind not even shifting into gear could these be the synchros ? If so would a master rebuild kit be good for the car it’s only has around 140k miles on the civic
@@patrickmcilmurray8780 s40 trans should be 91002-PS0-013 input shaft bearing. S20's are different. Maybe call synchrotech. They have bearing kits. Many kits sell on ebay if you wanna trust it.
Ok, I know this is a dumb question.. but I took apart my transmission about 6 months ago and completely forgot the washer orientation that gets put back under the main shaft? So when I slide those two washers back onto the bottom of main shaft is it the flat one first or the other? And which direction does the other one face? Boy do i feel dumb..
Hey just a quick question, how did you disconnect the connector for the reverse light switch? I can’t get mine to disconnect at all and the bracket for it is rusted
Any idea what may cause a no start problem after successful transmission rebuild and reassembly (mounted to engine). Car cranks, starts (for .5 second) then dies. Would any plug not connected cause a no start problem? I'm lost. Your video helped me tackle my transmission rebuild
It is strange. All grounds and connectors good. I'm thinking it's the ignition switch. This is common in Hondas. There's actually a TSB out for this. It may just be a coincidence that I have a no start issue right after transmission rebuild. I recall having long crank issues intermittently before, which again is a common ignition switch issue. I got the Haynes manual that shows how to test this switch. We'll see......
@@JasonTylerRicci usually if you turn the key back slowly, or wiggle it around, the switch will work. The ASD main relay could have a problem too. Other than that, I got nothing unless I had the thong to look at it.
Loosen the detent bolts a little, to see if it shifts correctly. If it does not, you may need to take it all back apart, and see what you did. best advice I can give you.
I have one of these that wont pull. I can see the speedo sensor shaft spinning and it stops when I put the clutch in. But the car sits still and rolls while in gear any opinions on what may be broken? The axles are seated too
@@RustBeltAuto thanks for your reply I'll like your video. I'm going to try another used unit. Hopefully it works. I'm going to keep the old one and maybe put a lsd back in it one day :D
Great video! Helping me rebuild my trans. Only thing is, I cannot free up the gear stack for the life of me. I know I have bearing failure somewhere however because a few bearing balls fell out of the carrier. Think it's the inside shaft bearing. Suggestions to free up the stack?
@@RustBeltAuto no. What's that used for? Come to think of it, the bearings that came loose I think we're from the spring loaded (shift detent?) bolts. Still can't seem to free up the gear stacks. I didn't put it neutral beforehand however
@@JasonTylerRicci I used a small prybar, and just worked both counter, and mainshaft back and forth until they both came out together enough. Yes, 3 balls for detents. Seems like some of this video is missing content. I may need to do it over.
@@RustBeltAuto No, this is a great video. There's one other detailed D16 trans rebuild video I like and yours goes into far greater detail in less time. Thanks again my friend
If you live in Zimbabwe, it can cost you maybe 1000 trillion dollars, the value of the dollar in the US is inflating, and the economy is cratering, so I don't know how this question is relative to the situation. Simply put, I don't answer cost questions.
Hey brother I followed the full series you did. I’m finally getting around to swapping out my y7 transmission and putting a y8 in mine. I miss your Honda videos. You liking the lsd? Debating putting one in mine before I drop it in. Mine is boosted as well and wondering if it’s worth it and since you did it and I appreciate your efforts here wanted your input. Thanks.
@@RustBeltAuto no prob not.. I think my tranny has a different style of bearing on the mainshaft. It got stuck in the case when I separated it. It seems like there might just be different styles of bearings.
I think not. Thread sealer only works good on tapered pipe threads. Those were straight threads that are supposed to seal on the flat of the bolt, and a flat machined surface. It basically just squishes out, and seals on the flat surface, and where the threads start. Subaru makes nonsense like that with no crush washer on their engines too. I do the same thing with those.
You need to measure the carrier, or cross reference the transmission number. The easiest way to measure would be to take out an axle seal, and measure the inside diameter of the bearing for the carrier. Mine was an S40 transmission. That was a no brainer. It's 40mm.
One more video googled, and needed to delete from history. The strangest thing about doing video is not sounding like what you are hearing. Takes some getting used to. Time seems different when viewed too. Seems like everything takes longer, and yet, time goes soo fast. Things get a little strange viewing yourself.
Definitely the best how-to for the D-Series Trans out there! Thanks for this.
Thank you! And thanks for watching!
@@RustBeltAuto quick question while its fresh on your mind. Those two shims(shim and convex washer it think) what order did they sit on the shaft? Thanks
@@MrStinky2011 you usually want the taper pointing down towards the bearing. I may have pointed one up towards the gear, but I don't think it matters much. It will do it's job either way I think. Pointing the taper towards the washer might be kinda wrong.
@@RustBeltAuto thank you
Just FYI the washers were installed backwards when putting the transmission back together. The spring washer should be against the input shaft bearing and the regular washer on top. When the washer set was pulled off at 19:12, the regular washer was on the bottom, so it was installed against the Input Shaft Bearing, while the spring washer was on top, which is against the main shaft. at 8:24 when the washers were pulled off, the darker one (spring washer) is against the input shaft bearing race.
Yes. And it still works.
Yo man my name is Ryan I live in Columbus Ohio and just bought a 99 civic coupe with the same motor and transmission and I wanna copy your build. Also I want to give you props for really really being a master of your craft. I love how you buy mostly budget, stuff of Craigslist and you said you used injectors from a different car and an e85 sensor. Honestly man your style is just perfect man. I can't thank you enough for the content and the information. I love when you retune your car and you knew the first tuner wasnt in the know. Just great man thank you so much for real. If I was in canada I would be proud to pay you for your time to do some of the work I was less comfortable with. Thanks again for real!
I am a Minnesotan. Enjoy!
Sincere thank you! Would not of tackled cracking the case open to replace the input bearing and seal without your video. Really well done, thanks!
You're welcome. I'm glad I could help you!
Thankyou so much for making this video for everybody. i recently had an issue with my 1996 civic. I heard a horrible grinding coming from the transmission area. It just started doing this out of the blue one morning. My first thought was that it's an alternator/AC/idler pulley. Then I noticed that while shifting, the clutch would engage when my foot had only lifted up a half inch or less from the floor. The grinding sound was present whether I was pressing on the clutch pedal or not...it was just always grinding.
By the time I left work that day, there was no pedal resistance and I was unable to shift in to gears while the car was running. Although the pedal did return back if I took my foot off it. I had to get towed. Anyway, I decided that maybe it's the clutch and that I would replace the clutch, and throwout bearing and that should solve the issues. But now, after having the tranny off, I noticed that the input shaft seems to "click" when I turn it back and forth by hand. i cannot tell if this is because loose ball bearings (like in your situation) or something else. I was going to take it apart. The car has 205k miles on it. Any advice? Apologies for the long winded post and thankyou.
Did the clutch disc crack, or come apart? did any chunks of the clutch, or pressure plate fall out when you unbolted them? Is there anything stuck inside the pressure plate springs? Are all the pressure plate fingers for the spring in the same position, or are some sticking out farther than others?
@@RustBeltAuto The clutch disc was not cracked and didn't come apart. The pressure plate fingers all seem to be aligned and looks normal. The throwout bearing for sure needs replaced because it sounds very "dry" as I spin the center race part of it. there seemed to be a definite hydraulic issue because the pedal felt weak and I was unable to shift gears with the engine started, but I COULD shift with the engine shut off. As a matter of fact, to move it from driveway to back yard (after tow truck dropped it off) I would shut it off, put it in first, then start it and it would roll (forward or reverse) no matter if the pedal was depressed or not.
You probably have a master, or slave cylinder issue, or both, if the clutch and pressure plate is okay. The noise is from, I don't know what, because I don't have my hands on it. If the transmission is in neutral, it should be smooth.
@@RustBeltAuto That's why I'm worried and I feel that I need to look inside the transmission. Even in neutral, I could hear the grinding. Again, the noise reminded me of a dry bearing spinning. Forgive the dumb question, but the input shaft is still spinning when the tranny is in neutral correct?
@@Doomzdayxx yes. Engine running, clutch engaged, input shaft always spins. Sounds like you have more than one problem. If you peel the rubber boot back on the slave, is there fluid there. Is fluid low for clutch, or really black?
Great video very descriptive, I just pulled my transmission off and getting ready to replace my bearings!
Enjoy! Thanks for watching!
Uuuuuuh god... 19:51 the most satifying klank thunk ever, i keep rewatching that part.
Thank you sharing you knowledge man, I'm not nearly as nervous to open the transmission now!
😁
Sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost the account password. I love any help you can give me
@Khalid Gregory instablaster ;)
@Juan Cassius I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Juan Cassius HOLY **** IT ACTUALLY WORKED! I literally hacked my instagram password after ~ 40 minutes of using the site.
Had to pay 15 bucks but definitely worth the price :)
Thanks so much, you saved my account !
Thanks for sharing, ordered a Mfactory LSD today and just found your video. New clutch, bearing and seals, synchro if needed.
It handles so nice with it. Enjoy!
Very nice instructional video with plenty of explanations, and straightforward to the point of disassembling the entire transmission. I had to tear my trans down in my Dirt Mini Stock Car Honda so I could weld the spider gears so it pulls both tires 🤘😂. Anyways your video served it’s purpose thanks dude!
My front input shaft bearing (ball bearing) blew up 16 years ago, replaced it, I also assumed the tapered roller bearings don't fail, but front mainshaft tapered bearing cage breaking it is THE cause of the repair I am currently in the middle of. I'm just replacing that one bearing for a "quick" fix to get it back on the road, but I do have a spare transmission that needs synchros, when the time is right, I will do a full rebuild on that one, I definitely will be replacing all of the bearings. When the bearing failed, it took the "uber important" plastic oil channel with it, so I used the one from my spare. Nissan does not sell them anymore (don't have a Civic). Whether or not it's the same case with Honda, internal transmission parts are not a priority with auto makers, so you're stuck trying to find a donor to replace parts in a lot of cases. Don't lose anything, and try not to break anything. Don't drive the car if your transmission is making bearing noise, chattering or stumbling in gear. Drop the transmission and fix it asap or you will end up breaking more shit, anything from plastic parts to the case itself.
Dude, please do a test of the LSD with a nice smokey burnout into the McDonalds drive thru!
Nice rebuild on this one, I learned a lot!
OKAY BYE!
D16's with LSD's don't really do burnouts. They corner real nice though. This car doesn't have any balls yet.
I'm looking forward to seeing what else you'll be doing. Are you going to add some smack or a turbo you think?
Was the LSD pretty pricy? Dude, you should be making a few youtube dollars soon... Don't sell any of your body parts, sell some of the walking canes or maybe just be a male gigolo!
Thank you very much for explaining this very well love the “place to the left” advice I always miss place 😂👌🏽
"This is one wheel wonder stuff..........Junk!" lmao, seriously though good vid.
Thanks. 😁
Thank you. I have to tackle a very noisy input shaft bearing on a 200k mile d16a6 transmission. At 1st I did a full clutch job thinking it was the throwout bearing. Wish I knew this prior.
I did a clutch job cause my clutch was destroyed at 300k, soon after I did the clutch one of the bearings went and it makes a knocking sound till I press the clutch in. This is the next step while adding an lsd
Great video
I own a 1995 Acura integra gsr and when I try to put my car in reverse it feels like it doesn’t want to go in, yet when it does engage it does not go out of reverse unless I drive a little bit backwards then it pops out of reverse, I don’t know what can that be
Me neither. If I was to guess, I would say it is not all the way in neutral (adjustment issue, worn bushings), The clutch is not fully disengaged, or there is a bent shift fork.
@@RustBeltAuto any chance a shift fork can wear out by 250k just enough to cause issues from time to time
@@DkpProductions if it is bent, it should have pretty consistant problems. What's it doing?
At 22:32 i put that bolt in when it wasn't in neutral. Do you think i broke something? When i put it in now and it is in neutral the transmission won't shift at all.
Take it apart and find out?
@@RustBeltAuto it shifts fine in to all gears until i get almost bottomed out on that bolt i think I'm just not lining something in there up right or maybe was there a gasket on it?
@@timothymundy966 there is a fork in there that needs to line up with the pin. There is no gasket. That is why I used sealant.
@@RustBeltAuto thanks i appreciate your responses. I'm definitely a newbie. I wish i could respond with a picture. There is a little nub on that fork that hits the bottom of the plug when it's all the way down. I'm sure I can remedy this. I'll let you know how later
I like your vibe man inovative detailed
i do like 1/3 1/4 kick in low gears because sometimes the rpms drop so low it feels like im going to stall out shifting in to second in some cases like going uphill. stock b7 block uknown transmission commuter car. dont get a nice full kick till about 3rd
I'm not gonna go that far fixing my transmission, but thanks though for posting/sharing.
I just replaced all the bearings and seals in my transmission, all the gears shift great but my 1st and 2nd gear makes a loud grinding noise while under a load...
I've replaced my input shaft bearing and mainshaft bearing. Do you happen to know what my input shaft endplay tolerance should be? Extremely helpful video
I do not.
Your destructive nature knows no bounds😂 Thank you Sir for this video! Soon to be LSD..💪🏼
Part number for the input shaft bearing
when i turn the car on it sounds really loud, and when i press the clutch pedal down the sound goes away. (it sounds like is scratching). is it time for a new clutch disk or is it the clutch master??
I have a playlist on this rebuild. In the first video this transmission did that, because of a bad input shaft bearing.
same with my car
@@Shahid_Meh i think it was the input shaft bearing inside the transmission. i did the whole clutcg kit brand and still made noise. its a bad transmission.
okay, thanks
The part I need to see the most is skipped. But does the input shaft bearing go in a specific way? Or does it matter? Like does it have a right side up is what I'm trying to ask
Does it look the same on both sides, and not a tapered bearing?
At the 21:12 min mark, you spun the carrier. All sounded smooth. When I spin my carrier(after replacing all the bearings) I believe it is catching ever-so-slightly on the bottom gear of the secondary shaft. It doesn't spin as smoothly as yours did. There's supposed to be NO DRAG, correct? It's as if the carrier is raised ever-so-slightly higher than it should be. Would you suggest sanding the shim down a bit to get more clearance, and allow the carrier to sit a tad bit lower in the case?
If it did not do that before you took it apart, something may not be seated all the way. Like the carrier. Double check your work. make sure you don't have an extra shim laying around. Make sure the rings are centered. No bent forks. Best advice i can give
@@RustBeltAuto it's gotta be the carrier. Maybe the bearing on that side wasn't seated all the way in? I out that shim back in. Hmmmmmmm, I don't know. Heu, any idea the clearance between the carrier hear and the bottom of the secondary gear ring? It's rubbing on those 10 outer carrier bolts that are just slightly raised from the surface of the carrier
@@JasonTylerRicci it probably is not in all the way.
@@RustBeltAuto Think the bearing isn't seated all the way down onto the carrier? The whole assembly seems to be seated in the case. I'll try to press that bearing a bit further down on the carrier. You've been most helpful I cannot thank you enough.
@@RustBeltAuto last question, I promise. Did the secondary shaft have a shim/washer on the bottom? I didn't notice
At 23:00 you say it’s way too tight. How do you determine this? I see you turn the input shaft effortlessly moving the output shaft.
It did turn nice, but there was no end play at all. I needed to make sure there was some, because I put in a new carrier. If you are using your original carrier, you probably don't need to worry to much about that.
My del sol d16 transmission must be making the noise from that bearing. Car has 160k miles and is 30 years old. How much would a bearing replacement or rebuild cost like that?
I think the bearing is about $12.
So I broke the plastic oil guide tube while trying to get thr needle bearing out .. I've looked everywhere and they are discontinued.. can anyone help ?
Hey man, i'm having a noise when I drive my civic that sounds like rubbing while in gear, sometimes it makes a whining noise while accelerating. Any idea what this could be? Transmission fluid is good.
No idea.
I am doing the same rebuild and upon putting it all back together I noticed that second gear has bad drag take some force to get it to spin unlike the other gears. I noticed that the second gear was a little stiffer than the first but hoped this was normal. Took the countershaft apart a couple of times to see if maybe I assembled it wrong, I think I’ve lubbed everything properly but when it’s time to press the other gears down it’s like it’s pressing second gear down so hard that it’s adding more drag to it 🤔 I need some advice because I swear I’ve done everything right but I still gave drag
Maybe whack the outside of the case where the main, and countershafts are with a dead blow hammer, after it is assembled to see if it is binding from assembly? Make sure shift forks are not bent? Really I have no idea. It should feel about the same in every gear I think. You drive the thing, maybe it will loosen up, Maybe ask those know it all's on the d16, or Hondatech website?
I have a question since you work on transmissions regularly. A little background. I have a 90 CrX Si and I bought an aftermarket 4.7 final drive. The stock one is 4.250. I want to install a 92-00 civic d series 5th gear set up to lower the RPMs as close as possible to stock for freeway. Will that gear set up drop in or work at all with the cable transmission?
I don't think you can change B gears with D gears.
@@RustBeltAuto let me be more thorough. The transmission is a USDM cable D16 transmission out of a 90 CRX Si. The 5th gear set I want to put in is from the 92-00 Civic d series hydro transmission
@@maxbet3997 you should probably ask the boyz on hondatech.
when pulling mine apart it seems the input shaft is stuck and i’m not sure what to do to get it out. any help would be great
Friendly persuasion? The shaft might be galled from a bearing that's locking up.
@@RustBeltAuto I bought a dead blow to see if I can get it loose. You think ill be fine if I try hitting the end of the input shaft? I dont think a 24oz dead blow will damage it but... what do I know
@@RustBeltAuto also, before i started taking it apart the shaft would turn and had no play. I just wanted to go through it to make sure everything was okay before I put it in
@@seth3687 follow your best judgement, and hope for the best.
@@RustBeltAuto alright, thanks man!
Hey old video doubt you'll reply but I am looking for my first car and found a 2005 LX SE USA spec 180k kms and the input shaft bearing sounds very bad. Car sat for 2 years and has black oil, should I buy it replace clutch and input shaft bearing and drive it for 5-10 years? I'm just worried about how bad the clutch feels (engages at the end of the pedal)
I don't know. There is no way for me to answer that correctly.
Every time I let off the gas the gears grind not even shifting into gear could these be the synchros ? If so would a master rebuild kit be good for the car it’s only has around 140k miles on the civic
That does not sound like synchro's to me.
Whos got a link for this damn bearing i cant seem to find one anywhere
@@patrickmcilmurray8780 s40 trans should be 91002-PS0-013 input shaft bearing. S20's are different. Maybe call synchrotech. They have bearing kits. Many kits sell on ebay if you wanna trust it.
Ok, I know this is a dumb question.. but I took apart my transmission about 6 months ago and completely forgot the washer orientation that gets put back under the main shaft? So when I slide those two washers back onto the bottom of main shaft is it the flat one first or the other? And which direction does the other one face? Boy do i feel dumb..
I think I put mine in the opposite way from what I took them out, and it's still working.
@@RustBeltAuto Thank you! By the way, that was a really well put together video!
@@rickybobby8563 😁
i beleive this transmission was also used for the 2005 1.7d civic?
Hey just a quick question, how did you disconnect the connector for the reverse light switch? I can’t get mine to disconnect at all and the bracket for it is rusted
There is a grey connector under the distributor. That bracket can stay on.
Thanks for sharing this video! I have a d-series transmission stocked here that's been gathering dust, will try to open it up soon
Any idea what may cause a no start problem after successful transmission rebuild and reassembly (mounted to engine). Car cranks, starts (for .5 second) then dies. Would any plug not connected cause a no start problem? I'm lost. Your video helped me tackle my transmission rebuild
Are all your grounds bolted on? Like the one on the thermostat housing? I have never heard of that on a Honda.
It is strange. All grounds and connectors good. I'm thinking it's the ignition switch. This is common in Hondas. There's actually a TSB out for this. It may just be a coincidence that I have a no start issue right after transmission rebuild. I recall having long crank issues intermittently before, which again is a common ignition switch issue. I got the Haynes manual that shows how to test this switch. We'll see......
@@JasonTylerRicci usually if you turn the key back slowly, or wiggle it around, the switch will work. The ASD main relay could have a problem too. Other than that, I got nothing unless I had the thong to look at it.
My ek 98 (automatic) used to randomly die or even not start because of the main relay behind glove box
@@fredericverpaelst4080 Yes. That is the ASD (automatic shutdown relay).
Pretty awesome and thank you for the video
What is your recommendation on 10-30 synthetic oil vs honda MT fluid?
Hello sir, I did the same job, I changed all the bearings and the bearings but now the reverse does not enter? What can be thanks
Loosen the detent bolts a little, to see if it shifts correctly. If it does not, you may need to take it all back apart, and see what you did. best advice I can give you.
I have one of these that wont pull. I can see the speedo sensor shaft spinning and it stops when I put the clutch in. But the car sits still and rolls while in gear any opinions on what may be broken? The axles are seated too
As a guess, I would say the side gears in the carrier broke.
@@RustBeltAuto thanks for your reply I'll like your video. I'm going to try another used unit. Hopefully it works. I'm going to keep the old one and maybe put a lsd back in it one day :D
Where can I get the input shaft bearing
Just about anywhere.
Do you do 91-94 Sentra 5 speed...Mine makes noise in every gear and on coast...(HALP...please)
I don't do work for Joe public. Sorry.
How easy is it to just swap the final drive on these. I have no idea which one of these gears it is
Never done it before. You want to change the gear ratio?
Great video! Helping me rebuild my trans. Only thing is, I cannot free up the gear stack for the life of me. I know I have bearing failure somewhere however because a few bearing balls fell out of the carrier. Think it's the inside shaft bearing. Suggestions to free up the stack?
@@RustBeltAuto no. What's that used for? Come to think of it, the bearings that came loose I think we're from the spring loaded (shift detent?) bolts. Still can't seem to free up the gear stacks. I didn't put it neutral beforehand however
@@JasonTylerRicci I used a small prybar, and just worked both counter, and mainshaft back and forth until they both came out together enough. Yes, 3 balls for detents. Seems like some of this video is missing content. I may need to do it over.
@@RustBeltAuto No, this is a great video. There's one other detailed D16 trans rebuild video I like and yours goes into far greater detail in less time. Thanks again my friend
Good luck to you. Thanks for watching!
Any suggestions in searching for bearing kits for these? I wanna do them all, even the diff bearings. Maybe I gotta get each one separately?
Do you have same rebuilded transmission for sale or can I order this service from you? Where do you locate?
I dont work for strangers.
What does the LSD Bearing do? Why replace it? Thanks!
It's a differential. Both tires get traction, instead of one. Better handling too.
@@RustBeltAuto Okay, Thanks!
how much it cost to replace the input shaft bearing for civic 1998 lx? thank you
If you live in Zimbabwe, it can cost you maybe 1000 trillion dollars, the value of the dollar in the US is inflating, and the economy is cratering, so I don't know how this question is relative to the situation. Simply put, I don't answer cost questions.
@@RustBeltAuto During the inflation crisis of zimbabwe, a loaf of bread costed 1 trillion dollars.
@@mediaguy4037 okay. So it may cost 300 trillion. Unless everything inflated since then. It could be more now. Thus is fun.
I appreciate the video very much thank you it help me out
Hey brother I followed the full series you did. I’m finally getting around to swapping out my y7 transmission and putting a y8 in mine. I miss your Honda videos. You liking the lsd? Debating putting one in mine before I drop it in. Mine is boosted as well and wondering if it’s worth it and since you did it and I appreciate your efforts here wanted your input. Thanks.
I wouldnt have it any other way. LSD is great. Even for handling.
Thanks for the help, sir!!!
WE LOVE HONDA'S!!!!
Did you install the main shaft bearing on top of the shaft?
I did what the video showed I did? Did I miss something?
@@RustBeltAuto no prob not.. I think my tranny has a different style of bearing on the mainshaft. It got stuck in the case when I separated it. It seems like there might just be different styles of bearings.
@@nevanevans it's probably the same.
I see you add rtv sealer to some bolts. Wouldn’t thread sealer be more appropriate. What is the objective?
I think not. Thread sealer only works good on tapered pipe threads. Those were straight threads that are supposed to seal on the flat of the bolt, and a flat machined surface. It basically just squishes out, and seals on the flat surface, and where the threads start. Subaru makes nonsense like that with no crush washer on their engines too. I do the same thing with those.
There is 40mm and 35mm kit how do I know what I need?
You need to measure the carrier, or cross reference the transmission number. The easiest way to measure would be to take out an axle seal, and measure the inside diameter of the bearing for the carrier. Mine was an S40 transmission. That was a no brainer. It's 40mm.
just asking which better p20 booo or s40booo
S40 has nice gearing, and a larger differential.
Lots of info, but your definitely the old guy in the shop who over explains every question lol
I try to do things in such a way, that people won't need to ask too many questions. The only stupid question is one that's asked twice.
I feel dumb I dunno why I thought you were canadian. Anyways are you for hire and where are you located roughly if you don't mind me asking
Not for hire.
Who knows the pn for that 3/8 square nut. The big one u need to take out to get the c clip loosen.
@@boosted_2j you probably gonna need to get one off of a used transmission.
I stopped counting how many times he mentioned....."its because people cant drive, idiots dont know how to use a manual transmission"....LOL!!!!
You sound like homer from the first version on the Simpsons haha 😂
One more video googled, and needed to delete from history. The strangest thing about doing video is not sounding like what you are hearing. Takes some getting used to. Time seems different when viewed too. Seems like everything takes longer, and yet, time goes soo fast. Things get a little strange viewing yourself.
You don't like floating into gear like a big rig truck driver!?
Wow - awesome video, thanks for sharing! Which bearing and seal kit did you use???
I found an old stock kit from a guy on CL.
how much would this cost if i let a shop do it?
I don't know
Where are you located?
Outer space.
@@RustBeltAuto ok thanks, was looking for someone that could help me look at a 5 speed.
@@txman951 lol... No problem.
anyone ever seen the movie Slingblade?
Your point being?
Well that transmission work on a d17
I think people have tried, but going into a 2001+ Civic, I would say no. Or it depends?
You forgot to say that a lot of people do not know how to use a manual transmission
Could have sworn that wasn't left out.
So u got to crack open to put m factory lsd. Hmm good how to. Big undertaking rebuild it. Lots of parts
Much love brother Hmu
hola soy dominicano
Could have done without the lecture on shifting, but good video nonetheless.
Thanks! I do believe it is important to not only point out problems people might be having, but also the potential causes.
got me a good laugh. when you do repair work for people that's just what happens.
Double clutch…..
Ok BYE
Annoying… please repeat again why you don’t “mash it into gear” we get it
Is there a mouse in your pocket?