Phaetus Dragonfly BMS Full Metal Hotend for Ender 3 rated for 500c
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- Today we are having a look at the dragonfly BMS full metal hotend from Phaetus,Will this be the last all round hotend you will ever need with it being good for upto 500c??
Phaetus Dragonfly BMS Full Metal Hotend
www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
PTFE Tubing-
www.aliexpress.com/item/32961...
Ender 3-
www.banggood.com/custlink/DDv... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
How did you install the grub screws to fasten the thermister and heater cartridge, the tiny screws dont bite or something I can't get them in or do you just leave it loosly in there
EDIT: Nevermind the I thought the tiny black screws in the bag are the grub screws but they are just spares to hold the heatsink
Thanks for the review RevXS.
Is filament supposed to go through end to end when a nozzle isn't attached?
I'm afraid I damaged my heatblock as everything is mounted, heated, nozzle tightened, but filament won't go through ...
Going to be best to heat unit up,remove nozzle and also hotend to get a better look, possibly has been a leak between tube and nozzle itself
so few videos done on these hotends... they're a great upgrade and not $100+ like most other solutions! with bi-metal heatbreak to boot.
New unit being released very soon so stay tuned for review on it
Its a pos and clogs constantly. I hate it, 1 week in amd I've unclogged it more than I can count. Its garbage
@@justinmcdonald29 skill issue
The nozzle is plated copper as far as I know
This hotend is best at combination with direct extruder, because with bowden setup especially PLA filament sometimes much leak, and extudion is not consistent. The first nozzle at package is copper nozzle with nickle platted surface. Brass nozzle is good too, at practise is same as nozzle at package, at printed parts not visual difference. With direct extruder, printing this hotend very similar as E3D V6.
Got this dialed in now with no stringing at all, direct drive seems to be what people think is an easy fix for issues insted of dialing settings in,run this machine daily since this video and no dramas at all
@@RevXSCustomsNo dramas me too, but when i installed direct extruder this phaetus print very well and little bit better. With BMG has great performance.
@@romanbabucha139 yeah but why would you bother with a DIY combination and build, when you can buy pretty decent DD sets. Like Biqu or the Sprite
Could you give more detail about your profile used. Very helpful to me.
Really nothing special,
50mm/s for infill
Walls are 40mm/s
2mm Retraction
Key is to get your bed level and first layer correct and get your E-Steps calibrated correctly
I could never remuve the ptfe tube by hamd , so i cut it😊
It looks like you used the stock cooling fans. How is that working?
How close is nozzle height to stock?
Have since changed out to new cooling setup using blower fan which is adjustable height
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4528533
Nice little video.. :-) You write that it might be good for 500°C (Alt+248 = °) but i guess that would require a new heater..?
Realistically average user wont ever get anywhere near that ,300d for some nylons which a stock heater and thermistor shouldn't have any issues at all,is a cheap and easy way to get a nice hotend thats good for abit of everything
all you'd require is something like a PT100 and an amplifier for it, because normal thermistors can't handle over 300°C, the heater would probs be fine at those temps
We're you able to increase your print speed with this. I've had it for a few weeks but I'm waiting for the inevitable ptfe clog in my cr10 v3 hotend
Never tend to run speeds anything crazy like some, running around 60-70mm/s with pla but sure could possibly push more,the newer high flow units possibly what your after have also reviewed that
I just went away with the original extruder etc, and put a hemera on my CR20 Pro, takes some more work as it aint a direct swap but well worth it
Were you able to get the silicone sock to fit on the stock setup without leaving anything crooked? It doesn't look like there's enough room for it between the heat block and bottom of the x-axis' hotend mount plate 4:33
Def had to loosen off to get it to fit up,havnt had to take it off since mind you,a few spacers would help bring it out more to limit that issue
@@RevXSCustoms Thanks for the quick reply! I'm looking to pick one up. Wondering if a linear rail on the X with a different mounting plate could solve that cramped space, as it looks to be caused by bolt of the lower wheel on the original plate.
Yeah its the Nut on the end thats issue,Possiably could rotate that whole screw setup so got head on that side insted and would give more room
@@RevXSCustoms I did this a month ago and I think I tried that, but later couldn't get the eccentric nut to hold everything rigidly. However I just installed a Printermods DD kit and the plate's hole spacing seems a bit off so now the sweet spot is very narrow. I'll get some new POM wheels on it when it comes in and try my luck. I'm new at this so there's that disclaimer, too haha
Have you checked out video done on there new hotend?
What are you doing about jams and heat creep?
Mine printy really nice but on pla intermittently It will jam. The retraction on Mines set to 3mm and has no stringing do you upgrade the fan?
Never had any issues with heat creep or jams,was at 2.5mm retraction since gone direct drive with this hotend now,upgraded part cooking fan yes run blower style fans on all my printer's
@@RevXSCustoms im thinking its either getting heat creep or its this specific filament. I'm useing stock fans with the bullseye shroud because the stock shroud arrived broken. But since the part fan is particularly blocked it raises suspicion
I just had a jam now and somone heard it and told me I was able to stop and fix and resume program. Might only loose 2 parts
Can you make the ender printer go above 300d when using a 500d hotend. I mean is the printer capable of printing about 300d when using a 500d hotend?
Firmware changes and board change yep,how ever some weird reason on bigtreeboard will go let me go above 485d
May I ask what's your retraction setting for Bowden setup on ender 3 pro? Tnx
Was running 3.5mm, since gone to a direct drive setup still using same hotend
what is the retraction setup you used for bowden tube?
Since gone direct drive still using same hotend, belive finshed up with around 3.5mm at 40mm/s
So how do you secure a stock thermistor in that tube?
Somewhat sits into the sleeve, definitely need to cut the stock cable management so can get more length on cable, once pushed all the way in cable tie wire back again to prevent it being pulled back out and give grub screw holding sleeve in a good tighten
the termistor always falls out of the little tube for me. how did you fix that?
Made sure pushed in it as far as could go,then cable tied up the thermistor to ensure wouldnt be able to come back out
@@RevXSCustoms where did you cable tied it to?
Accaully used kapton tape, just around the heater wires as normal,cut stock stuff off and gave myself little more length to push thermistor all way in and retaped it
I used wire cutters and crimped the very end of the tube. It worked amazing!
Why did you not tell us what temperatures you ran this at? Being a hot end that's something everyone would like to know. Do you remember the temps?
Temps always going to vary brand to brand
Basically everything I print I run in middle of there recommended min and max temp and go from there, Any major stringing will drop 5d and try again, Poor layer adhesive raise it 5d
@@RevXSCustoms Do you mind letting me know what the possible temp ranges were then? Really curious on the cooling capabilities of this to print some nasty high temp filaments.
@@freelancemotorsportsllc2826
CCDIY PLA 205d
Sainsmart TPU 200d
Extrudr Carbon 240d
CCDIY ABS 245d
Mamorubot Silk 210d
Sound like a kiwi? Any tips for a fellow kiwi looking to change to this hotend on a ender 3 v2?
Indeed Iam,
Two big things with this hotend if going from stock is make sure you unbundle wires and give the Thermistor some more slack to allow you to really push it deep into the little tube, Was one issue had was didn't push in far enough and fell out so hotend was running much hotter as it was not even inside tube no longer
Second one being making sure you do allow the hotend a good 10-15mins to head up before tightening up the nozzle itself being a full metal hotend,Rule of thumb is while cold wind nozzle in untill bottoms out, back it off around half a turn,Then preheat for the 10-15 mins then tighten it up
Is the width the same as the Mark 8 (MK8)?
Heat block itself is a wee bit larger as was a little more of a tight fit with cooling duct setup which was designed for stock hotend,in terms of overall length they are much same
Great video. Will the standard Ender nozzles fit this hotend?
No wont fit,Uses its own nozzles designed for this hotend
@@RevXSCustoms it uses regular V6 nozzles, same as e3D v6, dragon, mosquito and plenty of others.
What's the tool at 5:18?
www.banggood.com/custlink/DvvESucALe
Just one of these,Get from basicly anywhere designed for RC Car bodys for making holes for body posts
Cool , but a better extruder its gone impruve the speed , put a bmg or a titan or better go Direct Drive , in that way yuo can extrude very fast
Did add OMG DM1 to make direct drive at later point,this video was aimed a direct swap to upgrade to full metal
流量是多少
All these tests were done on a default ender 3 setting,so slow was at 100% and esteps as they were standard