Bi-Metallic Heat Breaks - A (R)Evolution?!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 เม.ย. 2024
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A bi-metal heat break, consisting of copper threads and surgical stainless steel tubing is a pretty interesting concept that can potentially add quite some performance to your 3D printer. Let me show you how I was able to more than double the extrusion capability of my Ender-3 what happened when I first cheaped out and bought a knock-off part and how I was pleasantly surprised when I spent the money and got the genuine one from SliceEngineering! Let’s find out more!
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🛒 Equipment used in this video:
Copperhead Heat Break (US): geni.us/yU4qW
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Generic BiMetal Heat Break on AMAZON (Affiliate Link): geni.us/bS8B
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Chapters
00:00 Introduction
01:23 What's a Heat Break?
04:20 Benchmarking the Ender-3 Pro
07:42 Benchmarking a Generic BiMetal Heat Break
09:50 Benchmarking a the Copperhead Heat Break
11:27 Summary
13:27 Squarespace Promo
#3Dprinting #heatBreak #science
DISCLAIMER: This video was sponsored by Squarespace. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Would you prefer changing just the Heat Break or would you rather replace the whole Hotend?
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If the hotend is fine, the heatbreak will do
Heatbreak is a pain in the butt to change. You might have to apply thermal grease, you might need a wrench and pliers.
Id much rather just have multiple hot ends.
Honestly, if it was easily available id rather just have multiple hot ends on hand, and just change them out for differently sized nozzles/heatbreaks/etc
I have been toying with the idea of putting a mosquito on my Prusa Mini.
What is extruder graff? @7:32
@@TwinStarGenny extruder graph, I think is the manually weighed material plotted VS feed rate?
It appears the TH-cam overlords didn't like us pointing people to our website to get more information, and removed our previous comment and related replies. We're happy to answer any questions here or via our website.
Which model of the heatbreak is the direct replacement for the Ender 3 Pro?
@@chrismawson4430 the Copperhead C-E Heat Break is the direct replacement for the Ender 3 Pro
@@SliceEngineering Does it protrude like the heat break in the video? I was wondering if he purchased the correct version or if it was installed incorrectly.
@@ruuman4 Yes, it will protrude a minor amount.
Would not a titanium tube be an even better option than the stainless?
Would the thermal properties allow for a stable fit between the copper and titanium?
I got my bi-metal heat break from Trianglelabs, works extremely well and the press fit is pretty solid. Dropped 8c on my heatsink and haven't exceeded 40c on it even with both hot ends at printing temp. I have noticed that I was able to print very large extrusion widths very quickly, and for only $17.
UPDATE: Benchmarked my max flow rate with a bimetal heat break, copper 0.6mm nozzle, copper heater block, BMG extruder 3:1 gear ratio, and pancake stepper at 0.5amp RMS in DD config. The final results were around 25mm/s^3 cubed, incredible for a non-volcano V6 hotend.
Which version did you get? The one for the Ender as well?
@@CNCKitchen almost everything from trianglelabs is of good quality. its pretty much the only chinese knockoff worth buying. some of their clones are superior to the real deals. their bmg clone fits the ender 3 without rubbing against the leadscrew. the dragon hotend can barely be considered a mosquito clone its heavily redesigned and fits any v6 mount. the dragonfly too can barely be considered a copperhead clone theres 2 versions of it one that is somewhat obviously a copperhead clone and one thats a drop in replacement for an ender hotend. they also have a microswiss clone with a plated copper heat block. and their plated copper is good i have the dragon hotend and both the plated copper block and 0.4 nozzle have been working excellently for me.
@@CNCKitchen I can recommend the trianglelabs clones, these are of superior quality.
@@CNCKitchen Yeah I got the ender version off Ali Express.
@@CNCKitchen They only have the kraken one, but that works in that mod also.
I really appreciate that you always do multiple tests and show us your data.
VERY impressed with your excellent summary of this part. I wasn't even aware of what a heat break was. Additionally, your excellent animations (which I know took a lot of your time) explained to me what was happening. All this, and it appears English isn't your native language, so you, sir, are truly a gifted teacher.
You didn't test the knock off one with the changed retraction.
noticed it too..
Missed this too. I installed the heatbreak from trianglelablabs and without changing the retraction (it was set to 6 mm) i had horible underextrusion. Now I changed it to 2 mm and everthing is fine.
He mentioned testing it.
shhh he isn't supposed to let you know the clone works
@@jdrevenge If he tested it, they would have had the same result. They are made of steel and copper. Sure the slice one will probably be a few degrees cooler due to better material choice, and be less likely to fall apart, but this kind of performance will be the same.
Stefan you again went above and beyond with testing and research! Well done
Thank you @cnckitchen for the detailed testing and information about the Bi Metal heat break.
7:08 - 7:28 was single handedly the most useful tip in my 2 year of printing. Thank you!
I'm having the same issue, but I'm not quite sure what the takeaway is. What should I adjust to eliminate the under and over extruding?
If you have that kind of inconsistency, then that flow is too high for the hotend + extruder setup, so you could limit the flow so that every part has the same "low" flow rate, but this is just one of many, that can "help".
@@qwewer6 thank you!
Perfect timing..thank you! I have been wanting to print ABS, Nylon and PC and have been looking at these.
Wow! I just found your channel and I must say, very well done. The descriptions do not contain much, if any extraneous information. Some great testing ideas rolled in that I'll be sure to try. Very nice work and thank you for sharing all of the great content! 🤘😃
Thank you for more great information. You’re such a blessing, fairly presenting information and testing that saves all of us so much time and headaches!!
I love the precision of your analysis and the quality of the recommendations that result from it.
We are literally getting engineering work for free.
Don't be so loud about it or he might find out and start charging a few hundred per hour 😛
@@BeefIngot I wouldn't mind paying, will hopefully become a Patreon when I get my own 3D printer and really need his work.
Honestly I think that the main reason for that small extrusion rate on the ender 3 is because the ptfe tube is making the length of the heated section (melt zone) half as much as it normally is in an all metal hotend. v6 lite also has reduced extrusion rate. this one is basically just the nozzle as the heating zone.
Thank you for making this! I cant wait to try this.
Thank you for making this video. You answered a question i had for a while now. I have prints with slight bumps randomly through my prints. Now I know where to focus. Thank you!
Good info. The extrusion % test is solid and where you point out the blobs or thicker parts of a print is very likely part of a compound issue I have been having with one of my printers.
excellent insights Stefan 👍 thanks a lot, I also had some concerns about the heatbreaks, but now it became clear 🙌😎
@marsgizmo please take part in the meltzone podcast 😉
Great insights, Stefan! I've been printing a lot with a 0.6 nozzle lately and your extrusion investigation is something I should do for a new-to-me PLA that's working on my stock CR10 but problematic with the Ender 3. Thanks for also highlighting PrusaSlicer's volumetric flow view to help understand potential for that bulging effect 👌🏻Despite what one thinks of the hardware, there's value for everyone when it comes to showing troubleshooting and slicer exploits. Keep it up!
Fantastic video as always 👍
Great idea to test this upgrade, love it
Thanks for sharing your knowledge to all of us 👍😊
Finally someone explained why I would sometimes get Over Extrusion Bulges in certain spots on certain prints. I usually get them in line with holes in the print. Like screw holes and such. Now I know what to tweak to try and get rid of them. Thanks 👍
I use a Copperhead on the Core XY printer I built. I love it. Its a great hotend. Definitely been thinking of putting one on my Ender3. I have no problem suggesting it to others. 😉
Thank you for this video, knowing this could make things much easier in the future with my Ender 3. I just experienced many days of jamming after 1.5 hours with 245°C on my Ender 3, the solution was that the original heat sink has thicker fins than the aftermarket I bought (aftermarket but still a good company, just not original). Everything was the same and I was going insane on troubleshooting. If I would've had this heat break I would possibly not have experienced my problems, if/when my original heatsink will break then I know I have to have this product to successfully print with PETG temperatures. Thanks again!
The dreaded click....
Great video as always, Stefan. Danke schön 👍
I've been using the triangle lab bi metal for a while now and have to say it works great. with dry filament I can get a lot of material down to 1mm retraction on bowden and I can now print at 150mm/s on pla. I have yet to try higher speeds but I think I could get some serious flow out of it. not to mention this is a very cost effective way to upgrade to all metal allowing you to print higher temp filaments.
I like that you added the images of the thermal simulation! Nice job!
Glad you like it! Thinking about dedicating a separate video to the simulation part.
@@CNCKitchen please do.
I bought the same style of heat break from Spool3D made out of titanium for the Ender 3 stock hotend. It worked great for CF nylon but clogged constantly with PLA even when oiling. I coated the heat break with a high temp thermal paste and it finally stopped clogging with PLA.
I finally switched to the Micro Swiss direct drive and all metal hotend kit and never looked back. Lol works perfectly. Just did my first TPU parts without any issues.
Great video Stefan! I really appreciate that you showed us how you removed your old stock heat break and re-threaded the block, these are useful details for first time hot-end surgeons. One comment however: since the heat block was flush with the heat sink with the knockoff test; this likely cause a significant amount of heat creep and could have been the culprit for printing artifacts. Granted this is in part due to the shorter length of the knock off, however even the genuine part had some spacing issues due to length. I may be wrong but I think the heat block / heat sink screws could still have been used as a spacer.
Went to Slice Engineering and purchased the Copperhead Heat Break for my Ender 3. I received it yesterday and quickly installed it. The results were amazing. I printed a curved Lithophane using Silk White filament and the backside was almost smooth as glass. The picture was amazing. Previous attempts were stringy loose layers and inconsistent as well. Your video was well done and your research was very much appreciated. This has changed my printing quality, I highly recommend the Copperhead Heat Break. Their website has a chart to help you get the right one for your printer.
I'm using the trianglelabs one for a lot of time now without any issues, printing high and low temp filaments!
Trianglelabs is without a doubt the highest quality counterfeiters in the game.
@@DR-br5gb Knowing the majority of companies, they probably outsource the original ones to the same factory as trianglelab.
@@DR-br5gb is counterfeit the correct word?
@@garramiro it is open source so I don't think so
@@vasko928 Wrong and wrong. Here's a link to Slice Engineering's mosquito. Tell me what it says on the heater block: www.sliceengineering.com/products/the-mosquito-hotend%E2%84%A2
Thanks for this video. I've just performed the same upgrade to my Ender 3's hot end and was incredibly surprised to see my retraction distance go down from 6.5mm to 2mm, even though those are the results you got, as well! I ended up printing a bunch of retraction tests, just to be sure, and ... wow!
With the lower retraction what were you able to do that you couldn't before? I'm looking for good upgrades and I'm considering this one.
@@rickybobbyracing9106 with lower retraction I can print in higher quality much faster, as I don't have to wait for my extruder to retract so far before doing the next extrusion - it also makes it much much easier to print flexible filaments and more exotic filaments in general. There's an overall improvement to how my printed parts look, too.
Wow, ive been considering a bi-metal heatbreak from Slice, and this is exactly the kind of information i was after! Thankyou!
I also had problems with extruding, then I tried linear advanced in Marlin and printer now runs perfectly
What a coincidence! I tested a cheap bi-metal heat break just two days ago (an all metal V6 clone). Clogged hotend approx 14 hours into the first larger print. After disassembling the hotend the heatbreak looked ok, but filament would just not fit through. On closer inspection I saw that the inner tube wasn't actual a tube but a rolled up metal sheet with a slit. That slit delaminated (I guess from the temperature gradient) from the wall and one end of the metal sheet pointed inwards. Filament no longer flowed. Went back to my titanium heat break I had no issues with.
so well done man, your presentation of all the data leaves me feeling spoiled lol
thank you so much for showing me the advantages of bi-metal heat breaks. I orded 2 right away, because I know this might be the solution for my failed CR10S (Pro) dual direct drive volcano extruder conversion. It never really worked because of heat creep.. I was so frustrated that I failed my first and only printer, that I stopped the hobby for nearly two years. Now that I ordered an Artillery Sidewinder X1 I got back into it. Glad to be back! :) Schöne Grüße aus Hamburg
Yesterday, I printed several big part in PLA with my good old standard E3D V6 2.85 with 0.8 nozzle at 21mm3/s with no troubles, no under extrusion and excellent layer fusion. Extruder is à simple "reprap like" geared with hobbed bolt. Simply played with head temperature in prusa slicer with layer custom gcode M104. Making temperature change from 230° in thin parts to 245° in big area layer (100% infill).
Once again, thank you so much for these informative videos. You rock!
Where can u find that retraction test shown at the 11th minute?
I was looking for this too!
Same. Looks very useful.
yes, seems very helpful
w8 4 answer
I made mine using 3DOptimizr. Should maybe program a similar one, so that I can share it.
Very nice review. Ordered new ones for all my printers. Thank you.
Just bought one of these on a whim. I want to print some PC and Just finished my enclosure build so excited!
Thanks! that video of the skipping feeder was an eye opener! I’ve only had my Ender3 for a few months, and couldn’t figure out what that “clicking” sound was. I knew it was coming from the feeder, but I thought it was just the stepper motor or something.
That's an amazing explanation, thank you so much for the help! I finally noticed what's wrong my my old Cr10
ive seen these around for a while and was wondering if they actually did anything, now i know
Thanks for the video, and thanks the caveat at the end. As a novice printer still learning PLA you saved me $30 and possibly some headaches. When I do progress to hotter materials I'll circle back to this video though. Thanks again.
Exactly this heatbrake presented in the video was broken within one!! week in my Sidewinder x1.....
Always such a good engineering content 3d related thanks
Looks like you got a v6 heatbreak. I use the chinese trianglelab and i had the same problems in the beginning. But lubing the filament on first install fixed any sticky problems. Now it prints awesome without the use of adding more oil. Great info on the extrusion comparison! Greetings from Belgium🤟
Excellent coverage Stefan, I don't need it but I'm glad to know it exists. Cheers, JAYTEE
The Slice engineering heat break did wonders for my Ender 3 max, able to print PLA+ faster, much easier to change filaments as the teflon tube was no longer being damaged and the effective nozzle temperature was higher with less heat loss going up the stock heat break.
Keep up the good work!
Happens to be the current problem I am looking at to improve my printer!
Keep up the good fight!
I currently run a stock bowden setup on my anycubic predator and i wanted to print nylon so this is extremely helpful
Very nice info thank you! I been running with titanium heatbreak, they cost around 20$ a pop, but last for 6 months plus ( I work with my printers ). I mostly print petg, titanium has been a great friend to me. But this new product will be my next try.
So I've had my copperhead heatbreak in my Ender 3 for a few weeks now. It ran for about a week in Bowden configuration and I was able to cut my retraction from 5mm to 2.2mm. Bowden tube gap cured and print consistency improved. So your results confirmed
I didn't really get to play with volumetric flow before I put it in (almost) direct drive with a fake bondtech BMG and a pancake stepper with a printed mount.
I'm still tuning flow rates, mostly I'm really enjoying how well it prints flexibles. I'm going through my stack of designs I wanted to print in TPU and cranking up the flow rate. The PrusaSlicer profiles top out at 2.5mm3/s for you and I'm currently riding 3.5mm3/s with Amazon basics TPU (95A I think?) and cranking this up for every print and now going to have to make changes to the linear speed limits for the basic 0.2mm ender 3 profile as I can't ride the volumetric speed limit everywhere... that's pretty cool for a slow melting filament.
My tuning for PLA has gone as far as getting retraction down to 0.2mm with some PLA and running a printer default of 0.5mm which has really boosted my print speed on complicated parts.
I need to put some time in tuning the PLA speeds now knowing I can push quite a way on volumetric flow before I have to worry.
I'm relatively new to 3D printing but I have 35 years of experience in technical work on office equipment and I received a working Ender 3 Pro for free and have learned how to use - maintain - and modify it. What I have discovered is that if I remain at relatively slow print speeds I have no problems but when I speed things up the gremlins come out to play. I think the Ender 3 product line is great to learn on but if I was to get serious about 3D Printing I would invest in a Bamboo Lab P1P and move to the next level . Still I'm having fun using and troubleshooting which is what I've done all my life. 3D Printing is relatively a complex hobby - the design CAD programs are an art form onto themselves - learning to use and make adjustments on the slicer program is also quite involved - then there's the printer itself which requires maintenance and knowledge. It's a great hobby but thank God for all the TH-cam videos which are so helpful in understanding problems and solutions. Your video sure explains a lot of things.
This finally made me understand what is going on in the hotend. Thank you!
7:22 Looking at flow rate visualization vs printed model to see if it's an extrusion volume issue, brilliant idea and a feature of PrusaSlicer I did not know.
I put in a bimetal heat break and upgraded heatsink in my direct drive extruder with volcano hot end. I can now print other exotic filaments on a mid range printer at up to 270C temp.
My experience with a bimetal heat break from biqu is a bit mixed. Performance is amazing, i have no issues with print uniformity, like in the video. However, the tube is a bit loose and does rotate a little bit, even tho it shows no indication of ever coming apart. A bigger issue is that long retractions, overpressure or pulling the filament out, without first pushing it a millimeter in before, results in molten plastic climbing in the cold zone and clogging the nozzle.
Interesting video Stefan! I got a Titanium V6 heatbreak for my MK3S to avoid PLA jamming because of the custom 'notch' the standard heatbreak uses for the MMU2. You mentioned known downsides for a titanium heatbreak, what were you referring to?
Interesting as usual Stefan!
I would love to see how different nozzle materials perform! Would a copper nozzle increase the melt capacity compared to a brass? How much worse is a stainless steel nozzle?
Helped me alot (: thanks bro
Great Video Stephan, Really interesting about this. I know what to do now...
Thanks for the tips. I really dislike the clicking sound, and am tired of breaking down my hot end (often) to clean out filament in the transition you describe. I have been searching for the “ideal” hot end ( Creality CR10S with a Micro-Swiss Direct Drive extruder ). I’ll check this out!
This is probably where you don't want to go cheap. Nice work.
Ohh that looks awesome
Interesting stuff Stefan, thanx.
11:11 Your Retraction test looks interesting. How do you set up different retraction settings into one part?
And another question why looks this rectangulars so strange on the left side?
Welcome to my grounds Stefan
I am using various knockoffs bimetal from China for over a year now in my twin nozzle water cooled heatsink, and yes they are manufactured without any quality concerns.
But I managed to find a way to make them work well,I fine tune them phisically (which I would expect from the producers to do but I guess the just don't care)
A) the PTEF tube inlet need to be deburred and eventually countersunk enlarged to hep the tube slide in, a 2 mm cone fillet or chamfer does the job,takes a few seconds to do it.
B) same think at the filament inlet below, but here a one mm fillet or chamfer is enough, I sort that out with a small conic router bit run once clock wise for a second or two, than anticlockwise for three or four seconds to give my fillet a shine so it does not grip on the filament.
You see how some small things can ruin a good concept in a potentially good product?
BTW, it took you a hile tochange that head each time... lol, using my snap in place manual tool changing setup that takes 3 mintues, assuming you have more than one heatsink at hand, just fit them in different configurations,and when needed swap them in seconds.
One last thing, PLA adores sticking to metals, hence all metal heatbreaks be them one metal or bi metal are not a good option for PLA, Stick tot the PTEF sleeved heatbreaks for that, makes life easy, no cloggs, no jamms.
On the other hand PETG, Polycarbonte, Ultem have not such issues, I am still to test HIPS in bimetal setup, will find out next weeks.
I replaced the entire hot end and extruder. Running a Bondtech DDX with a Copperhead on both of my CR-10S Pro V2's.
One has a 0.6 and the other, a 0.8 mm nozzle.
The "surgical stainless steel" bit always gets me, hilarious
Great info, as always.
I replaced the heatbreak in my Artillery Sidewinder X1 for this with fantastic results.
Debating replacing the heatbreak on my Prusa MK3 as well.
Which model did you buy? Is your X1 a V4?
@@arianetrek7049 yep, a V4.
@@FTGTapGod Nice, I have a V4 too. Which heatbreak model did you chose for it? Slice has smooth and threaded models but I'm not sure of which one will fit
this gave me an idea, like a really great idea...
Amazing! Must have been a lot of work to do the temperature simulations.
Yes, it was but the results are now really nice!
Amazing investigation. Seems exactly what i'm facing with stock Ender 3v2 Hotend
Could you cover the Mellow Nf V6? That is ceramic and looks crazy! Also, to fix the rotating heatbreak you can assemble the hotend and tighten the nozzle.
I also bought the knock off brand and also had bad prints and stuck filament in the heatbreak🙈 than i found youre video thanks for sharing the knowledge👌
I got the mellow version with titanium throat for Prusa Mini and my other printers which have screw in version (v6), so far so good.
I got my Trianglelabs stainless steel bi-metal heatbreak for my Neptune 2 last week. I installed it with a Trianglelabs copper plated 0.4 nozzle and it's a dream. Besides the other upsides I never experienced skipping or grinding since then. The filament flow (with ABS) is just crazy and seems to have no limit. I got a malfunction a few days ago since my Neptune 2 is in a box right now to print ABS and the board overheated, which made the extruderstepper drive at a ridiculous speed. In a few seconds there was a great mass of ABS extruded. I was really happy to see that performance boost, even though i experienced this malfunktion :D The Trianglelabs stainless steel bi-metal heatbreak (and the copper plated nozzle!) is worth every cent. Wouldn't go for the titanium one, since it seems it has no copper part in the heating section.
it would be interesting to hear your impressions on the triangle lab new dragon hotend v2
Hi Stefan! I was wondering if you would suggest this upgrade over a CHT nozzle. I am currently starting to print a bit faster now that I got into Klipper and the only thing keeping me back is the thermal performance of my ender 3. I have switched to direct drive but now that I tweaked and upgraded everything but the hotend under-extrusion is more apparent.
I have been dogged by heat creep issues when printing larger fine detail models. I just ordered one of these heat breaks for my E3D V6! Hopefully this fixes the problem, thanks!
Hi CNC Kitchen, i had the same heat creep problem on my e3. i think that is due to poor air flow through the fins on the heat sink, so i designed a new fan shroud and solved the problem. the heatbreak i used is similar to your shorter one
Would this help a direct drive Ender 3 as much as it helped the Bowden setup? Great video. Love the channel.
I was able to get 14mm3 with a titan clone direct drive on a microswiss at 210C before my printed mount started deflecting enough to make me nervous. That equates to about 140mm/s at typical extrusion settings.
I had no idea there was a calibration print for retraction. I've been wanting to learn how to do calibration tests for my printer to fix the weird issues I have. It would be super cool if you could do a video talking about the different types of tests and prints you use to calibrate and test your printers. I'd love to know what you do to get such clean looking prints.
Search for teching tech's printer calibration guide. He provides a github with a great checklist for calibrating almost everything on your printer. Hope this helps.
I got a cloned volcano, seems like a very fitting candidate!
Your are the empirical guru just subscribed because I have learned so much from you!. I am on mission to learn all things possible to optimize print time and quality and find all your post very informative. I wanted to suggest another topic a roundup video. If a good heat break helps melting performance, and CHT nozzle + adapter (your other video) also helps, what results do a unified system of these two combined approaches produce?
I currently got massive problems with heat creep printing PLA with my Prusa i3 MK2S MMU1. Tried everything together with the support of Prusa, like replacing the thermal paste and other stuff. Didn't really fixed the issue. I'll gonna definitely give this a shot. Hopefully, that fixes my issues.
So I got a update with really good news 😊 I got my copper heatbreak a few days ago. It fixed all extrusion issues I had with my MMU1. Big thanks Stefan for that recommendation.
One little thing is, that the lower part of the heatbreak is a bit longer than the original one from e3d. But some tweaking with my PINDA fixed that.
The model you initially got was a model intended for the E3d Chimera. The shorter length is a good dictator of this.
At around 10:44 I had a thought. I wonder if screwing in the nozzle first, such that it is completely flush with the heat block would result in even better performance for free. I would think intuitively that the higher area of contact would keep the temperature of the nozzle more consistent while pulling double duty in reducing heat transfer to the cold end due to lower contact there.
I completely understand why you think that that’s a good idea. But unfortunately if you do it that way you can’t properly tighten the heat break against the nozzle. I’ve tried it because I also thought that would improve thermals.... my hot end exploded with molten plastic. SO DON’T DO IT! Leave a small gap between nozzle and heat break. Insert heat break first then tighten the nozzle against the heat break.
@@lucasvandelogt5126 I think these two methods are effective, but I prefer the former method. However, if you use this method, you cannot change the nozzle at will, otherwise you will encounter the problem you mentioned. If you want to replace the nozzle, you need to remove the entire hot end. However, if you use hardened steel nozzles, it can indeed bring certain improvements.
I love your testing protocols. Would it be possible for you to compare the ender with bimetallic heat break to a Phaetus Dragonfly hot end? The hotend does come with a bimetallic heatbreak, copper heater block and nozzle. I would be genuinely curious to see a 1 to 1 test, especially given I'm currently using one in my Prusa Mk2.5s.
Another excellent video!
BTW, is it just me or is it that, as Thomas is having less and less hair, Stefan is having more and more! 🤣
Very nice Video! I'd be interested, in the change of low rate of the Prusa in comparison of the Ender.
Mine fell apart at the lower thread portion. The center came right out leaving the threaded portion in my heat block. I was pretty disappointed. Big flaw of these. Made sense when I took it apart as a leak had developed and everything was properly tight. Mine were bought on Amazon for my sidewinder x1 v4 , looks to be the same ones pictures.
Would be really interested in a caparison between the Bi-Metallic Heat Break mod seen here Vs the $5 Trianglelab Titanium Alloy Kraken Heatbreak mod on the Enders.
I actually purchased the knock off "Swiss" all metal hot end from Triangle labs which uses a Ti heatbreak, and am yet to fit and test it on my Ender 6. I have been reluctant to test it as it has taken me a long time to get acceptable prints from the E6, but I'm getting there now, so I think it's time to move on.
The quality of the Triangle lab parts, from my past experience, have been exponentially better than that of the usual chinesium cheapo knock offs. Usually as good as, if not better than some of the parts they're copying. Their nozzles are incredible value.
I'm hoping the Ender 6 upgrade it will give me adequete TPU results, but think the Ender 6 is in urgent need of better part cooling than the, frankly lazy, duct design that's provided with it.
@@BusbyBiscuits I've been running a few of the TL all-metal hotends, and haven't had any issues with them over the last couple of years.
@@BusbyBiscuits I have no problems printing Pla with a titanium heatbreak from triangellabs
@@BusbyBiscuits oh yeah, hero me gen 5 is much much better than stock creality ender 3 stuff which looks the same as a ender 6. and you can use a 20mm deep fan to halve the noise.
A comparison with a all metal non "bi-metallic" would be a interesting follow up...
Indeed. Another test print with low temperature materials such as PLA... to compare cogging issues would be nice as well
A comparison between this one, stainless steel all metal and titanium all metal, maybe even including OEM and knockoff parts (yes I know that would be a lot of work).
It depends from materials used. For me full metal was fine from PETG, flex, nylon to PC. The only problem I had is PLA - it is very sticky and when it sticks somewhere at the bottom of heatbreak I have problems, PTFE in heatbreak there was a solution. I can't see how bi-metallic heatbreak solves that problem.
@@lukes1978 agreed. I love my E3D titanium V6 heat break.
Are you using some form of heatsink compound on the heatblock side for installation? Seems like most guides talk about not using any kind of compound but I would think something like the Slice boron nitride paste would work well and act as an additional anti-seize. At least if your purpose is to put more heat at the heatblock side (since they're keeping copper there for similar reasons per the video). It also seems to look like some kind of paste is present in the video but perhaps it's my imagination.
This really got me thinking (I like to push my Ender 3 to 5-7mm^3/sec at least for infill) : Shouldn't it be possible to compensate for the reduced flow at higher speed in software? Or possibly by measuring the actual length of filament pulled into the extruder and realtime feedback to compensate for the loss of extrusion efficiency (I imagine a Sensor similar to Thomas Sanladerers filament diameter sensor but measuring filament travel)?
Been very interested in moving to a bimetal heatbreak as well as a better heaterblock. Wondering if you have any videos on the quality of biqu/bigtreetech. Thanks much!