Dragonfly BMS Hotend Installation (Creality Ender 3 V2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มี.ค. 2022
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In today's video we run through the process of converting the Creality Ender 3 V2 hotend to the Dragonfly BMS hotend. This is a much better all metal hotend with a bi-metal heat break and a plated copper nozzle.
Dragonfly BMS Hotend (AFF):
amzn.to/3snUjjH
Cartridge style thermistor (AFF):
amzn.to/35COy9e
Video on installing Jyers firmware:
• Upgrading The Ender 3 ...
.STL and Assembly of hotend on 3d Jake:
www.3djake.com/phaetus/dragon...
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Just as a note to help people with installation. If you have string available, tie or tape a long piece of string to your old cables before pulling them from the cable wrap. That way you can tie/tape it to the new wires and pull them right back through the cable wrap. Makes the process only take about two minutes.
That is a great idea 👍
Fiberglass wire fishing rods are great for getting wires down these sleeves.
Perfect timing. I've had a Dragonfly BMS in my drawer for a couple of months for my Ender 3 v2 and I was actually planning on doing it this weekend. I printed out a Satsana hot end cooling duct for it as well that upgrades the fan to a 5015 parts cooling fan. I'm glad to see it's pretty easy to install. Thanks for the video.
Oh nice more cooling is always a plus. I have been really happy with it but if I am going to push it speed wise a cooling bump could definitely help. Good luck with the install!
This will be my first parts change on my couple month old E3v2. Thanks for this video!
ABS or ASA
Great walkthrough of the process
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Have had this on my Ender 3 V2 for a while now. It has greatly improved the quality of my prints.
Hi, did you change the thermistor like in the video or you use the stock thermistor?
@@omegadeepblue1407 New thermistor
@@GuysShopthanks
The easiest way to get a little more clearance on the hotend, particularly if the Ender stand-offs are a bit short on your printer, is to use a pair of brass heat-set M3 threaded inserts. Basically the same ones that you might use in your finished 3D printed parts. In this case you don't even need to print a part first. Depending on the specific insert you're using, this'll give you 3-4mm of additional clearance without having concerns about either having to print a part, or such a printed part having a dimensional issue.
I upgraded Ender 5 Plus to Dragonfly BMS and used it for month. Not a bad hotend, but I went to Dragon High Flow instead. I print functional parts only and with 0.6 mm tungsten carbide nozzle.
BMS had not gave me enough flow to print really fast 30-36 mm^3/s - ie 0.6 mm nozzle at 0.3 mm layer height and 150 - 200 mm/s.
Now that’s rocking 😁
Nevermind, BMS will be used on my older printer with direct drive setup.
Detailed guide video, Just a tip,
If you bought the fresh box of BMS it will come with a spanner to hold the block from the back side the use standard 7mm spare for the nozzle to be tight.
been looking for an good review thanks
Just GREAT, Daniel!! Something else I can’t live without!! 😁
Thank you Pi! 😬 have a great weekend 🙌
Oh a possible related idea for a future DIY video: instead of re-running all that wiring, I've chosen to start cutting cables, and putting female connectors in place for my fans, to make future replacement easier. You can do the same for the heater cartridge / thermistor wires, with the only real downside being those extra connectors on your hot end. But speaking for old blind people who hate soldering, crimping pins is much easier. Plus pin kits are cheap too, every 3d printing nerd should have one, or two. :-)
I totally agree, molex for the heater and sm for the rest, besides it looks more professional.
Literally perfect timing for the video !! haha
Taking apart an Ender 3 v2 now and choosing between this dragonfly and MS... and the video pops up on the feed.
Fatefull inspiration came like Odin sending a crow to the window to say "sup". haha
Daniel! Would love to see a rapido review. Also moving forward on hotend reviews it would be cool if you could to do a simple flow rate test. I think it would help a lot of newer enthusiasts better understand the limits of the hotend in question.
Nice, glad you got some use out of that thing! I don't trust TH-cam with my moniez yet, otherwise I'd be a channel member too. :-)
For a hot end that was seemingly targeted as a drop-in replacement, I found the fact that it was shorter and fatter than the OEM unit to be a pain in the bum. Nowadays with all the shrouds we have access to for free, or solutions like EVA if you're on rails, it's not a big deal. But it could catch some folks that are new to the hobby. For me personally, I just chose to stick to the Micro Swiss hot end on my E3 V2, since I already had the MS direct drive plate installed. Plus I only have two printers, a mutilated remnant of an Ender 5 Plus with a Dragon, and the E3V2 with the Micro Swiss direct drive / hot end combo, works well enough for my needs (ABS+ is as hot as I go right now).
Really the best upgrade for the Creality Printers. I run one on my Ender 5 for 8 Month now. I have less stringing with PETG and overall the print quality improved a lot. An Upgrade I can recommend everybody who owns a Ender
Looking forward to running petg through this. I have done a bit on my voron but primarily abs.
I installed this hotend on mu ender 3 last yesr. Its an awesome hotend, but a bit of advice, the heatbreak is very delicate, you have to be very careful when changing nozzles, otherwise youll end up spending 30 bucks on a new heatbreak
Thanks for the video on how to do this.
When pulling old cables out of a cable braid, tie some fishing line to the end. You can use that fishing line to pull the *new* wires back through more easily.
Good job on this quick little guide. I've no desire to replace all my MK8 nozzles with V6 ones, though, so the Creality drop-in replacements by Phaetus have never been an option for me, regardless of my considerable appreciation for their E3D drop-in upgrades. I'm perfectly happy with my Copperhead heatbreak (plus Heatlink cables) on my Ender-5.
What hot end you running boss so I can on my 5 my version one spider is ass
When I changed out the hotend on my Ender 5+ I taped the new thernister wire to the old and pulled it through, same with the heater cartridge, this ended up being a 5 minute job unlike my other Ender 5+ which I did the same way as yourself amd that took me about 20 min and some painful fingers and thumb as the Ender 5+ has that ribbed plastic conduit, a few days later saw a tool online to open the conduit and run the wires into it, sods law!
I've got a microswiss all metal hotend and a dragonfly bms, and I definitely like the dragonfly a lot more.
What do you like more about it? I will say I love the convenience of the MS. I do like the bi metal heat break though
I was using the Dragonfly in combination with the Micro Swiss directextruder on my mostly stock Ender 3... Have to mill a slot between the screwholes cause by the shape of the body the dragonfly cooler have. I have printed with this setup tpu filament down to Shore 63. Works realy well and IT printed realy easy.
Now I have the Voron Afterburner printed in ASA on the Ender 3 for the Ender 3, just for fun. But the BMG pancake motor fried my mainboard. The connectors on the motorcoils are diffrent, so it shortcut the driver... New mainboard incomming, swapping to 32bit with silent drivers.
Hope to print with this setup also the Super soft TPU...
I was looking into this one but ended up getting a Haldis Red Lizard V3 Pro. Mounts the same as the stock one and this one but doesn’t need adapters or anything. It’s also bimetal and cones with a hardened nozzle. It’s also a bit cheaper than this one.
Thanks for the great video.
BTW: The thermistor links to one that only reads up to 350c
I've been running this on my OG Ender 3 for like a year now :D I juse checked that I purchased mine in 2021.04 - when my OG hotend died. The only issue I had with it was that the glass bead thermistor kept getting out of the provided tube. I ended up getting a different thermistor from E3D with molex adapter and changed the firmware to be able to go higher with the temps. In my experience it is also "slightly" shorter than the OG hotend - as my BL Touch had to be moved up due to negative Z offset. I use TH3D firmware and for some reason there is a limit on how much negative Z offset you can have.
But since the upgrade I've never had any clogs, no extrusion problems, nothing. I love this hotend a lot! I'll probably also add one to my future Voron.
Support from Phaetus is also top notch! I asked them what thermistor can be used, and what thermal paste they gave with the hotend. They promptly replied and also checked my feedback about issues with the glass bead thermistors.
To add to the glass bead thing - adding the glass bead to the cilinder is really bad. There is NOTHING that holds the bead inside the tube. The tube can be mounted easily by the grub screw - however, the glass bead WILL move out, unless you use a ton of kapton tape to keep it in position.
I would of replaced the Bowden tube with Capricorn tube at the same time. I still have a stock hot end in my ender 3 have done a couple of mods. I think my next mod will be hot end replacement👍.
Mods so far:
Capricorn bowden
Glass bed with better springs
Car touch
OctoPi
Ah, you could use some ferrules for capping the stranded ends of wires that go into screw terminals.
Just wondering what sort of advantages the Dragonfly BMS would bring over just installing a good quality all metal heat break and a plated copper nozzle into the stock hot end?
Hello, which printer would you recommend for someone who is taking their first hobby printer?
I've watched Ender V2, but I'm also interested in S1. Is it worth giving more innovations for S1 or would V2 be good for a beginner?
As the video seems to be for new/not so experienced printer owners, follow up video could be optimized print settings with standard/upgraded extruder, benifits of upgrading (other than higer temps) max print speed with standard ender 3v2 etc.
Nice video you mentioned a computer hook up to adjust printer settings but I dont see it in your description .? If I'm missing it I apologize
good video, but I wish you explained more why you're doing each part. Like, why do you reccomend a cartridge thermister, and why do I need the adapter printed out to switch everything out? Your video is the only one that has a full video for this hotend and printer combo
You so would love the herome gen5/6 upgrade with that hotend! That would make a great video since not many people have done it?
Hey wanted to ask what retraction settings you had while using the bowden tube to prevent clogs?
Made this upgrade to my ender 3 v2. Really nice, but the QC was not the best. I tried printing but the Hotend was clogged. I had to disassemble and found that there was a piece of ceramic stuck inside. Anoying, but afterwards the hotend peeformed flawlessly.
What about the heating cartridges? I see you swapped them here. Are these higher wattage than the stock ones? And where could I get them for replacement in that case?
One question which number did you use in marlin for the thermistor, I bought but I have had problems with temperature measurements I use the 11 number
Iv been using it on my v2 for months, only using for abs and similar temp filaments. Only thing I don't like is that it doesn't have a screw for the thermistor. Which means most likely i have to replace it when I'm not around and a print fails and gobs up the wires
are you going to stick to the stock ducts, or do you plan on trying any others?
What real advantage does this have over a stock hotend with a metal heatbreak and nice copper nozzle for it?
I have been looking at the BMO for about a year now but am finding it hard to see the advantage. Does it flow a significant amount more? I get it's all metal which is nice but the ender hotend with an upgraded heatbreak can handle high Temps as well.
I love the Jyers firmware on my Ender 3 V2, and I have installed the Phaetus Dragonfly, but I have not been able to succesfully increase the max_temp in the firmware. I keep trying to set it to 300, but after it compiles, and I flash the printer, it still maxes out at 260. What am I missing?
does the fan shroud adapter solve the issue with the shroud being too low for the nozzle to reach the bed without scraping off material?
Hi good videos ;) i have a question for u,i have ender 3v2 with jyers firmware,that firmware is moded,i can set hot end to 300c,so if i want to change heater and cartridhe do i realy need to make changes in firmware????
Are you still useing this hot end?
I have one and curious what fan ducts work best with it. I couldn't print the adapter and my factory duct was damaged out the box.
Also wondering what direction drive works well with it for future mod
my only question is why do i have to print an adapter for my ender 3 v2. i really don't have any other hot end to print this with, which obviously sucks. do i have to buy another hot end just so i can print this adapter?
also, i can continue using PLA right? i really hope i don't waste all this PLA filament i've got.
What is the advantage or what do you like about the phaetus bms over say the microswiss or the creality spider?
You forgot to mention why the sock is used for. It's to hold the temp heat on the nozzle. Not just for looks.
With the new termistor did you change the number in marlin?
the heatsink is wider than the printer's standard ?? I use the cooling system made by bliss moto, will it fit??
Need to adjust Linear Advance and after that it will be "Look amazing" ))
what are the settings for retraction and extrution on the dragon fly hot end?
Would this upgrade be worth it if I only print PLA? I’ve hear some hotends are a downgrade from stock if I’m only using PLA ?
Do you need to upgrade heater cartridge and thermistor or can you initially run it on the origional from my creality hotend not being able to reach 500 then ofc.
@modbot Is the adapter absolutely necessary?
modbot, i use filament to fish wires through looms. it can be any length and is rigid enough to push through
What retraction setting did you use?
How did you remove the plastic bit from the thermistor plug?
If you have this setup its not better to switch bowden to a direct drive?
How should I install the fan shroud while having a broken hot end, I am not able to print it.
would this hotend still work on a microswiss direct drive thats on a ender 3 v2
what do I do if I'm not able to pull out the bodin tube, even using tools?
I am having a challenge with the Ender 3v2 fan adapter printing. Any suggestions for best position and settings for printing a clean piece?
I use PETG at 240C with my bed at 80C. I use the stock glass 3v2 bed . Use supports and make sure to clean your bed real good with Isopropyl Alcohol. My prints are good and they stick to the bed very well. Let the bed cool to room temp before trying to remove the print.
Can't I just leave the old thermistor and heating cartridge in place and put them into the new hotend, if they indeed fit?
Hi! Planning on doing this upgrade also. Just wanted to ask, does this use V6 nozzles? I want to use a 0.6mm nozzle instead of the included 0.4mm nozzle. Thanks!
It uses any standard E3D-v6 compatible nozzle. The MK8 ones that are standard for Ender printers will be too short.
Yup! Standard v6 nozzles are good to go 👍
@@thomasbonse Thank you!
@@ModBotArmy Thanks!!!
you never mentioned how the sensor s installed. i been having issues with it reading acuratly in this hot end
Next time you remove a wire from a cable sleeve, attach a wire or fishing line. Pass cables back in by attaching them to the fishing line.
Someone else mentioned that to. I need to order some string that sounds way better 😬
Can I still run a blokhead cooling system with this on ender 3?
what is the retraction distance for bms hotend?
Will the stock hotend print nylon
I cut off a small piece of the silicon sock and it slid on without removing the hotend.
How did the petg hold up?
What would be purpose of high heat hotend with bowden tube that will burn ?
Dont know, i plan to do with direct drive upgrade
is it compatible with elegoo neptune 3?
Anyone has a tip on what thermistor and heat cartridge should I get from 3djake? I aim for printing up to 300°C, maybe more
micro swiss or dragonfly?
Jyers firmware I'd dead. No updates for a year now. Shame, it was the best out there IMO.
is it hard to change the firmware temp? I've never even touched firmware though?
If you can get the source code compatible with your printer's main board, then it's not difficult. If your printer only has pre-compiled binaries or no firmware upgrade options, then it will be difficult, neigh impractical.
it's so dang easy in Jyers firmware for the Ender 3 v2
@@br0k3nilluzion I love the Jyers firmware on my Ender 3 V2, but I have not been able to succesfully increase the max_temp in the firmware. I keep trying to set it to 300, but after it compiles, and I flash the printer, it still maxes out at 260. What am I missing?
Skip to 1:38
Now find me a duct that will fit my duel noctua fans
First!
My cube looks amazing with the stock hotend. And now ?
The stock hotend works fine with pla. If you want to print with higher temp that would be a reason to upgrade 🙌
@@ModBotArmy PETG works also fine 😊 for higher temp materials is an enclosure needed. Bad english 🤭
@@allffrommars6019 just be careful not to melt the ptfe lining. It can easily be done when you get into upper petg temps. And it depends on the material most high temp do but you can print nylons without an enclosure 😬
@@ModBotArmy i use a capricorn? tube 😊
You are supposed to use Ferrells!!!!
They are best but it is not a requirement. As long as you do not tin your wires bare wires work fine.
@@ModBotArmy 🙄
there is no time and patience with cable braid. Is technique. Yous just has to do it like is suppose to.
Yeah I mean you bunch it together to make it wider but it still take some time to get it to feed nicely. It is much easier when you don’t have it on an existing wire harness.
@@ModBotArmy thats why is easier to take everything out and feed them together. But the right technique is to not use those damn things in the first place
@@ModBotArmy It can actually be more difficult to do a fresh pull through sleeving, particularly if there are connectors involved and you're not using something like a fiberglass wire fishing rod/pole. Adding/removing a wire isn't really too bad, just time consuming.
@@thomasbonse fair I guess my most recent example was with the voron 0 and I pulled them all through before crimping so it was fairly painless. I can see plugs and different cable types being a nuisance