You need this board in your 3D printer: BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 v3.0
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- INFO:
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Should you buy SKR Mini E3 v3.0 for your Ender 3 machine? Want to know how to set your board up? Let's take a look at the latest BTT controller
More on: notenoughtech.com/3dupgrades/...
Get yours:
SKR Mini E3 v3.0: shrsl.com/3d7ki
JST Crimp set: amzn.to/3BPL6nm (if not available try this: amzn.to/3vx5Sr8)
More BTT Upgrades:
BTT Octopus board: shrsl.com/3drpj
TFT 3.5" touchscreen: shrsl.com/3ebk9
BIQU H20 Extruder: shrsl.com/3d7m7
BIQU Dragon all metal hotend: shrsl.com/3dswh
24DC-5DC adapter: shrsl.com/3ds9h
Other Printing guides: notenoughtech.com/category/3d...
00:00 - intro
01:00 - SKR Mini E3 v3.0 overview
02:15 - SKR Mini E3 v3.0 features
04:00 - should you buy SKR Mini E3 v3.0 for Ender 3
05:45 - should you buy SKR Mini E3 v3.0 for Ender 3 v2
04:38 - how quiet SKR Mini E3 v3.0 is
06:40 - SKR Mini E3 v3.0 stock settings print quality
07:00 - SKR Mini E3 v3.0 setting up guide
08:45 - Power supply on SKR Mini E3 v3.0
09:40 - hotend and hotbed heating element on SKR Mini E3 v3.0
10:18 - installing stepper motors on SKR Mini E3 v3.0
10:55 - how to enable USB power on SKR Mini E3 v3.0
11:40 - BL Touch on SKR Mini E3 v3.0
12:08 - endstops and sensorless homing on SKR Mini E3 v3.0
12:47 - TFT screen on SKR Mini E3 v3.0
13:25 - PWM fans on SKR Mini E3 v3.0
14:15 - Neopixel on SKR Mini E3 v3.0
15:18 - Filament runout on SKR Mini E3 v3.0
16:06 - Automatic shutdown/ UPS support on SKR Mini E3 v3.0
16:45 - other interfaces on SKR Mini E3 v3.0
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#BigTreeTech #3Dprinting #SKRMiniE3V3 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
The most important part is that it comes with a yellow rubber ducky
I got it for Christmas and I still have the duck it’s so cuteeeeee
I love your workshop! Thanks so much for the video!
Pleasure is mine. Hope you will find this useful
Great video Mat, thanks.
Very very informative thank you I just got one of these boards and will be looking for more on them.
Pleasure is mine
Got a Voxelab Aquila C2 (original Ender 3 clone) used for $61 with free shipping. First I got a Makerbase MKS E3D board, and it was quieter but the company abandoned support years ago. Thats on me for not doing my research and seeing the $25 price tag and making an impulse buy. I just got the BTT SKR Mini v3.0 and wow… what an improvement. This board is beautiful and impressive. I love being able to control the mainboard fan, the hotend fan, and blower fans. I prefer to leave the mainboard fan on all the time. The board turns on the hotend fan when the temp is over 50c. Soooo quiet.
I love this board
Hey man, had this bookedmarked, I took your advice, and yeah.... so damn good. now i need to do a noctua upgrade
I'm happy to "not" hear it
The sound was one of the factors in me getting the Ender Pro 5 over the standard Ender 5. The Pro came with silent drivers.
That said, I am still considering updating the motherboard due to other features, such as sensorless homing and linear advance, which is not implemented on the "silent" boards from Creality. Linear advance does give options for considerable quality improvements. Of course you need to customise Marlin a little to really get significant improvements over stock firmware.
I will have a separate video about sensorless homing as its worth visiting I think, and I have stuff coming up about completely silent printing. So watch this space
@@notenoughtech Always watching :)
If you have a raspberry pi or are already using octoprint, then look into Klipper firmware. You can use linear advance without spending $50.
@@icebird76 Forgot to mention that klipper will take all the load your printer motherboard has with calculating stuff, because that will be done on the Pi if you have klipper installed.
Compile your own firmware. Turn on linear advance. Ta-da, free linear advance.
My mrs bought me an Ender 3 (original version) a few years back as a birthday gift.
It lasted maybe 2 or 3 days because the main board was switched out to an SKR Mini E3 V2 for no other reason than the noise!
You can make it almost absolutely silent. Check out my video on silent printing
A reason, IMO, for upgrading the E3V2 is if you have a GD32F mcu, and you plan on upgrading to Klipper. I've heard of problem with those mcu's flashing klipper. With BTT SKR mini's going for about 40.00 its a fair deal for faster printing speeds.
I'm yet to try klipper. Maybe over Xmas when I have more time
I definitely care about what my tool looks like.
Nice video, just ordered one for me as the SKR mini E3 v1.2 is having problems with a stepper driver. I was watching your ender 3 setup and I was wondering what kind of camera you are using, as this is quite a nice setup
This is a bit expensive one but can give good results
notenoughtech.com/review/camera-see3cam_cu30-review/
I just got this for 40 bucks with shipping, will use it for a deltaprinter most likely 🙏
Thanks so much! Great video, very informative. I was too eager and bought this board before researching how useful it would be for my Ender3 V2. I also purchased one of the clone BL touch devices (the Simax3d 3D Touch V3.2 in my case) and I have been having a terrible time compiling a working Marlin firmware for it. Any advice you can offer? I would greatly appreciate it. In the marlin configurations folders, there is a firmware for the base ender3 and ender3 pro setup for this board. But not one for the ender3 v2. Which folder would you reccomend, or do you know of a better firmware I can download from somewhere?
Are you in a correct branch? I thought I have seen the marlin for that board for the V2. Unless I'm getting crazy. Adding BLTouch clone should be pretty straight forward as long as you have correct mapping for the wires. I have an article on the website about the marlin and BLTouch.
Actually I think this board is not compatible with the V2 cause the screen. It's only working on the original ender 3 and ender 3 pro. I'm not sure but I read it somewhere. I've installed this board on my E3p.
It requires ribbon cable mod to make it compatible. It's not as straight forward as I'd like it to be but it's workable with w bit of patience. Personally I use BTT TFT screens as I hate navigating through the menus with the knob
I just got an ender 3 pro, have had a CR-10S which I'm currently installing this board to make it quiet. Your printer in the video sounds like my CR-10S but my ender 3 pro is relatively quiet compared to what the CR-10S was and I can easily sleep in the sale room without the ender 3 pro waking me, although the CR-10S has woken me before.
Hey check my silent printing video :) you can sleep right next to both when they are in operation. You will like the final result but perhaps not the final bill 😃😃
Thanks I'll think about it.
If you planning upgrades later on it's a definitely good board to start working your way up on the printer awesomeness
@@notenoughtech I've had it for a couple years now and about the only things I've printed were a demo dog, a drawer for the printer and..... Well maybe that's all. My bed is not flat. One corner is up or down but it's not on the same plane as the rest of the bed. Plus I can never think of anything to print that I would have a use for. Other then collecting dust off course.
Glass bed would help if your bed is skewed. As for ideas... It depends on what you like to do. I don't print non stop either only when I have an idea for something to do. But i do like to tinker around.
Can this board work on a flashforge Creator pro?
Thank you for a great video .. made my installation a breeze.. I only have one issue with this board so far... I bought a couple years ago an extension cable for the SD card,.. with this new board, it won't see the Micro SD card when it's in the extension cable,.. not sure why as the SD card is fine and adapter,..... computer sees it no problem.. any recommendations? .. was thinking a newer one..
Other than the cable not being correctly seated, I can't really think of any other issues. If you don't like the SD card slot position, I found BTT TFT screens to be great with SD support and USB - plus I can't go back after using touchscreen
Really interested in seeing the watercooled sprite extruder. I'm guessing that's what you'll be using from the looks of it. Plus Creality making a big splash about it on their page. Recently went from a 4.27 to SKR e3 v3, to power the second z axis without splitting the load to it. Loving the feature it comes with as standard, and plan on using most likely the octopus pro in an upcoming project.
I'm so so so close now. It's been a delay with H20 as I'm also shooting video about completely silent printing. And that required me to strip both printers to stock and test each stage. I hope to finish everything this week and post next mon-tue
@@notenoughtech ah fair enough. Sounds like an absolute beast of a video project, with all the stages involved! But I'm sure it will all be worth it when you get that printer to be so silent, it can be just out of shot without anyone realising. So glad i found your channel. Keep up the great work.
@@samhazell13 TH-cam 20dB cause this is how loud it is right now mid print :D
That seems an amazing option. I have some doubts about this (I don't have knowledge about watercoolers). ... If had a "scape of liquid" this could make a short "short circuit"?
I covered several options for making it quiet not just water-cooling. So you can actually lower the sound of your printer considerably
Very nice explanation and super useful. Let me tell you I own a Tronxy xy 2 pro printer which has a very old mobo and I want to replace it so I can be free for using Marlin. I also must replace lcd touch screen as it is not compatible with any mainboard that I know. SHould I go for V2 or V3? Sensorless homing is a very nice improvement, thanks.
V3 is at similar price point so I would go for it. So far I have no issues with the board
Hi
Great videos could you tell me where you got the clam looking things look like something from Starwars one red and the other white they sit on the side of the printer they look fun yo print thanks. Keep up with the great videos
Do you mean these little monsters?
notenoughtech.com/featured/gravastar-mars-pro/
I still have no idea how a motherboard can make the motors run quieter but the results seem to speak (or shut up) for themselves. ill definitely be picking one of these up for my old Ender 3 that ive just had to move back into my bedroom.
To drive the stepper a board needs to create a pulse. The frequency and how clean the output is removed the whine associated with the movement of the motor. To get the better signal you need better components (so it's more expensive). You could think of it like of being inside of a car. Every car (combustion one) has an engine but not all of them are loud inside. Usually the expensive ones are much quieter.
Great Video! You answered a lot of my questions. I have one question remaining... I have a Longer LK 4X that has a bad motherboard, and I was looking at this SKR Mini E3 v3.0 as a replacement. I see the SKR supports a touch screen controller, however I can not find if it will work with my factory Longer touch screen controller. Before I pull the trigger and order, can you help confirm this for me? Thank you!
If you look at the hardware configuration for your screen if source code is released then you can compare it with what's needed for skr
Hallo, very informative video, the board is ordered, there is only one question open: Is it (by customized firmware) possible to use the 2nd Z-Motor-Connector as an 2nd Extruder-Motor-Connector?
If yes, I think an upgrade to an 2-color-printer whit an 2-in-1-out-hotend (like Bitreetech ZSYongMix) could be an nice upgrade.
No as the motors are synced up
@@notenoughtech Ok, thank you
Hey! Awesome video! Question! I got a v2.4.7 with dual z motors, bltouch, filament sensor and a pi. In your opinion would this be an upgrade, or sidegrade?
Are you planning to add anything else to the printer? You are pretty much at max spec on your printer board, I found the SKR to be only tad quieter than 4.2.2 (I don't have 4.2.7) so I wouldn't really recommend based on that alone. If you want to get this for your current printer, your upgrade path would be: quieter printing, better fan control so with that spec in place it's a sidegrade. You'd be better off looking at good deal on Ender3 and investing in second printer at this point than sidegrading. At least that's how I would approach it.
@@notenoughtech I was considering the dual z header.. Is it using two steppers? can they be individually controlled? or are they using the same stepper?
They have a separate stepper controller for the second z axis. I'm not sure if you can control this as a single off axis (probably yes) as it's down to firmware. My bet is that hardware is made to help synchronization between both steppers.
But if you play enough in marlin I'm almost sure you can control both of them separately
@@TechdoLiberal if you are asking if each z axis on a dual axis has its own dedicated stepper driver it does not. It has a single stepper driver for 2 z axis.
You I was wrong about that I just looked over the picture without the heatsink on. I need to learn to count past 3 again 😁😁😁
Thanks for the video! Do you think this would be worth installing on a Voxelab Aquila?
Looks like you already have a silent board on this but if you plan upgrades like filament sensor, bl/crtouch and then I'd say yes.
Nice video very informative but have you done anything with the 10S Pro Motherboard replacement? Has anyone looked in real time filament management? sensor data on on width and height versus feed rate, temp, nozzle to bed, speed. The data could be integrated for a bead form goal and the system trained on filament types to create maps to put down perfect filament. I have a hell of time maintaining good nozzle distance and speed any time I change filament. What do you think? We did that in 1980 for robotic Welding. We used a laser to detect the V groove and then regulate wire feed and speed to get a perfectly flat fill in realtime. It was great. I would love to make a real-time closed loop system. Dennis
Is it possible... Probably.. I think it would add cost and probably even more complexity to the system. Change of filament shouldn't really have an impact on the print quality as long as your filament gets correct print settings. If you are losing quality after filament change I'd check for mechanical integrity of the machine. It's likely something might be a little loose.
I'm curious because a lot of people call these silent. My RAMPS 1.6 wit a4988 steppers properly tuned is just as quiet. Is it that people just don't know they can turn a potentiometer to make their machines quiet? This is a great, informative video btw. It's just been a long few hours of watching videos about silent steppers that aren't actually silent.
If you watch my silent 3dprinter video you will see (and hear the board without any additional sounds.
cheapest ender 3 I found was £99 with 4.2.2 - worth keeping an eye on box
Don't tell me this was brand new! Would be an insane deal!
@@notenoughtech yup brand new. the packaging is marked to say Box is an official distributor. Haven't seen it that cheap for a while though!
I tip my hat to you. Awesome deal!
I got 2 recently for $99 USD each at Micro Center, the deal is over, but I saved quite a lot even with driving almost 8 hours round trip. Was the 4.2.2 board, assuming the same in both, but haven't opened the other one yet
That's a commitment to drive that far darn!
Can you use the Mini E3 v2 or v3 with the stock Ender 3v2 display?
You need a ribbon cable mod and self compiled firmware. Yes you can but it's not as straight forward
@NotEnoughTECH Thanks for the video. heads up - the JST crimp set you link to is currently unavailable.
Thanks, shame it's a decent set. This looks also good according to the feedback and has the right connectors included: amzn.to/3vx5Sr8
@@notenoughtech Thank you! almost as much as the SKR mini v3!
Or the skr just comes at hard to beat price. (Tools are for life so I tend to pay the price and stock up)
@@notenoughtech wise words.
I think I'm right in saying that this V3 board doesn't support a DCDC bridge.... if that is correct, how many Neo pixels can be supported without separate power? Is there a video on adding Neo pixels to this board? Thanks.
It supports the DC bridge but it's a good question anyway. You should be able to do 5-10 I think without voltage collapsing.
i got this board becuse my dog freaks out over the sound ender 3 pro was making upgraded skr mini v3 no sound now .i say this board is perfect. my prints are cleaner didnt have to change anything setting .i had to put software for bl touch to work . so if u have a ender3/or pro it makes it easy and prints perfect good upgrade thanks
Check out my silent 3d printing mods if you want to make your printer even quieter
What software did you put on to make the touch work?
You need to use compatible screen ribbon and select the correct display configuration in the config files before you complile the software. Check out my marlin guide
@@notenoughtech so I can't go from a 1.2 to a 3.0 and use the screen that came with my Ender 3 V1?
I have an old Ender 3 clone based on an MKS Robin Lite that was dead when I received it. I am trying to replace it with a BTT SKR Mini E3 v3.0.
My printer has X, Y and Z endstop switches that have 3 wires, so they don't fit the BTT 2 pin connectors for these endstops.
I am willing to replace my end stop switches with 2 wire versions or rewire the existing switches if I can find out how the 3 wires should be connected on the BTT.
I only seem to be able to find 3 wire switches on line. And all of the instructive TH-cam videos show people upgrading Ender 3s with 2 wire endstop switches.
Any help would be appreciated.
3 wire switches are just fancy way of sending the same signal. In 3 wire logic one is high (positive) and switch directs the output to wire 1 or 2. (So one is usually connected - pulled high). With 2 wire sockets board assumes high signal unless the witch activates the 2nd wire.
Just check your printer and confirm that the logic pulls high or low as both scenarios are possible and then wire your existing switch accordingly. Usually its the com and one if the Nc (normally closed) so it triggers when the switch is closed.
Is the 3 much quieter than v2? I thought v2 also had automatic shutdown? I'm not sure what the advantage is in my case- I mainly want quieter steppers, ideally auto shutdown in case of runaway heat, maybe a bl touch, octoprint or Klipper... v2 can do all that, can it not?
I have a video about quiet 3d printing where you can see V2 and V3 compared.
In short there is almost no difference.
Yes you can do all of the above with this board
@@notenoughtech Cool thanks for the info. I'll check out the vid.
Hi! I saw on the pinout that the Fan0, 1 and 2 are 12v/24v, does that mean that I can replace the stock 24v fans with a 12v fans on my ender 3? (Like the 12v noctua fans) Can I plug them directly to the board with no need for a buck converter?
To my knowledge these are 24v only
I have the problem that when I power on the printer after this, my heat bed just starts to heat up from start, until it shuts itself down.. How do I fix it? Heatbed is connected to THB and power is correctly according to your video too..
I'm not sure why my reply didn't post. If your wiring is correct (check the heating element wiring too) then I would look at the firmware or sensor PID as it could be reading something weird. If you put the stock SKR firmware on it, and it doesn't do this then you know it's not the board.
do you have the links for the robot Droid stl file, that is left to your printer?
Sadly not but:
notenoughtech.com/featured/gravastar-mars-pro/
My Ender 3 Pro has resume print on power cut by default, will this feature works on the SKR or am I going to loss it upon upgrade?
You have the power resume on SKR board. I accidentally tested it :)
Wish It came with dual stepper motors for dual z align.
You can drive dual steppers just you are going to be feeding it from the same driver.
@@notenoughtech and can you do a G34 with a sigle stepper driver?
@@L3X369 You wouldn't need to if your setup is mechanically sound. G34 is needed to sync up motors driven by separate commands. In SKR setup each command is replicated for both steppers so unless you crash into something once homed, any errors would manifest themselves on both axis keeping both motors in sync.
How do I change the extruder stepper settings and add bl touch it doesnt seem to drive my BIQU v2 properly and I'm too dumb to figure out where the configuration is. It is crazy how quiet everything is compared to the ramps 1.4 I had before.
If you want to see how quiet it can get, check out my video about silent 3D printing: notenoughtech.com/3dprint/silent-3d-printing/
Both extruder and BLTouch settings can be configured in Marlin. I have a couple of guides how to do this. You can apply extruder steps via printer interface - just look for steps/mm options in there.
here is the guide to Marlin I wrote:
notenoughtech.com/featured/compiling-marlin-2-0-for-ender3-v2/
I've had a lot of problems with the BTT SKR Mini E3 3.0. Conquered them all except one big one. The worst thing about this board is it crashes constantly partway through the print. Seems to me to be related to bug MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/18226, but I can't find config files that support Ender-3 Pro. If I could get a firmware build that doesn't crash, I'd be really happy with it. I really like the improved fan controls and tft backlight timer. I'm ready to roll back to SKR Mini E3 v2.0.
Run it as ender 3 as essentially the only thing you care about is the bed volume and steppers. I have been running it from the E3 config for over 2 months now without board issues. I had some problems with my watercooled extruder but I finally got where I can print reliably
Which firmware do you recommend?
How are you feeling about compiling your own?
Not a problem at all. I've tried a few with the release 2.0 code and the config files. Same crashes though. I did get it to stop saying "echo: Fade Height" which is a nice plus. It would be great to build the Marlin bugfix 2.0x but that might just introduce even more untested code.
Fade hight goes away once you store the BLTouch mesh. It's just a warning saying no mesh info is saved.
Start with ender3 sample for skr and add any mods you have to the config. You should be ok with that
Hello! Thanks for the video. Need your help. Do you know why after instslling the board, when printing the first layer is perfect and the next start fail becsuse the nozzle stars to go further away from the bed? I have don everything, baby steps, probe offset, reset the epprom and nothing works
ZSteps would be ones to look at. If your second layer is too high, your stepper drives the motor too far on layer change
@@notenoughtech hello. I did all of that, but then I found a forum where they said to change the z steps from 800 to 400 and worked! Thanks for you answer!
I'm glad its all done for you :) also check the extrusions steps to make sure you have no further problems
One other thing... THIS BOARD IS SOOOOO FRIGGN QUIET!!!.... LMAO I can't believe the difference from the version 1.1.4 being so noisy.. to this board.. all I can say now is............ WOW! can't wait to test print which I will be doing shortly.. have to put on the chain cable guide and the filament guide.. :) thank you again for this very very helpful video....
Oh yes this is the quietest board i had my hands on
Does V3 offers more value than the V2?
I went for V2 because V3 has nothing I need and is incompatible with many community-designed enclosures due to increased size.
If you already have v2, I don't think the upgrade makes that much sense. I'd save it for a 2nd printer instead
What exactly is the advantage of a water cooled extruder?
There are number of benefits from noise reduction to more exotic filaments. But mostly "cause we can " 🤭🤭🤭
I Have just added the SKR Mini E3 Version 3.0 Motherboard and the BigTreeTech TFT35 3.5” Color Touch Screen. I had a BL Touch, so I have tried to add it as your video shows, but it is not working and wants to smash the base without stopping. I thought I had loaded the correct firmware with auto homing, but the red light on the BL Touch never comes on. Just the little blue dot light. So, my BL Touch colors are different with a blue wire instead of green, but they are in the same places as yours. I just can't figure this out. Why is the BL Touch not lighting and moving the retractable arm?
My bet is on the firmware. You need to disable z stop and enable bltouch as z stop. I have a dedicated video about adding bl touch check the section about enabling this in the firmware
How dit you get the bltouch to work? I have this board with a bl touch but the z probe doesnt work
Which probe do you have? The one with 5 pins or 3+2 ?
just a constructive critism of the vid, increase your speaking audio a touch as the intro was loud and then the talking audio was abit low (i scrolled past my normal audio settings to hear you properly) apart from that thank you very much for the vid as it was very informative and educational 🙂👍
Thanks, I think I fixed that later on in my videos. I appreciate the time and feedback to let me know!
@@notenoughtech 🙂 no problem, i did buy a v3 and have not regretted it yet 😁 thank you very much for the vid as it certainly helped 👍
Do u have a link for the stl to that camera mount?
I cheked it but it seems that i misplaced it
I just found your channel... Please tell us about that analyser behind you?
sure: notenoughtech.com/review/awesome-led-panel-from-hell/
great
Hi! My extruder fan is connected to the Fan1 but it doesnt spin, I tried plugging it in other fan slot to see if the fan works and it does. Is there anything that Im missing out? I just change the stock board on my ender 3 to the SKR Mini E3 v3.0 put the JST connector, plug it in the Fan1 and doesnt spin, I think it should spin all the time.
Extruder fan spins when the extruder reaches a temperature threshold. All fan connectors are pwm unlike the ener board that supplies just 24v
hello! I just installed this BigtreeTech skr mini e3 V3.0.1 into my CR10 v2 and was able to get some help for the firmware, but I am still running with the issue for the heating process. The bed or nozzle will start to heat up and then fail after a few moments. is there a reason for this and how can I fix it? thanks!
Could you tell me more about how it fails? Have you PID tuned the board?
@NotEnoughTECH someone tried to help me there, but idk if i did that correctly either lol. Do you have a discord or somewhere where I could try explaining a little better?
Is this board any better then the BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V2.0 ?
"better" would be subjective opinion as you have to have a specific metric in mind. If you already have SKR board and you are looking to upgrade, I don't think you would get your money's worth buying new one, unless the old one is sold or broken. If you are however debating buying SKR v2 vs v3 go for the v3 as is a little richer in features
Will this board work on non-E3 printers?
Yes as long as you are not afraid to play with some code. Configuration files would need to be adjusted to account for stuff like your steppers, display, size etc
I just ordered this board not got it yet… do I need to install JST connectors for the fans? Or is there a way around this for my ender 3 pro.
It's all plug and play unless you have some mods that needed rework on your E3
@@notenoughtech oh okay, so I dont need to install any JST connectors for my fans? Ive not did any mods yet, completely stock so far. Thanks for the response!
@@Iphonedylan if I remember right the extruder one on the older creality boards is wired to a screw in terminal. The other two should have the JST plugs. Check your cables and you will know in advance
MAJOR PROBLEM, I experience when updating firmware on my Ender 3 Pro. I also bought package with TFT35 touch screen. Do No Update firmware. My ended with error "No Printer Attached". Spent hours online looking for a fix I never found. Exchanged for new and left firmware as-is ALONE !!!
No printer attached means that screen is not able to talk to the motherboard. There are many reasons why this could happen. From damaged or incompletely entered cable (or in incorrect slot - depending on display) to incorrect display setting in your firmware or serial configureation.
Whe worst case scenario, you will need to re-flash the software that worked for you if a new one that you have tried has issues. It's very unlikely you'll damage your printer.
What is that camera mount on that ender 3?
Something I spliced together a long time ago from a 2 different thingiverse items Unfortunately I misplaced the design file somewhere 🤦
can you install in a tronxy x5sa pro
You have to check the screw layout for the board. Dimensions for holes are in the documentation
Link for the sound monitor?
notenoughtech.com/review/awesome-led-panel-from-hell/
Sucks you can't use the stock ender 3 v2 screen with a lot of modifications
Yeah it's a shame. It's not a difficult change but an annoying one to make for sure
I just bought one of these motherboards but I'm having problems with it. Soon as I turn it on I get a blank blue screen. I've tried different firmwares, sd cards and nothing works. I tried plugging in the USB cable to my computer and my computer didn't see it. Any ideas of what to do?
Firmware for your screen need to be updated. (Providing you already flashed the board with firmware)
@@notenoughtech I still have the original screen on it so would I need a new screen?
What 3d printer is it for? Ender 3? Yes you would need a screen to go with it too. You can mod the ender 3v2 screen but that's a hardware mod.
@@notenoughtech It's for a CR-10S5
Oh it's not a display I ever used so it's hard to advise. I know that btt displays work out of the box.
what camera setup is that ?
I'm using this one
notenoughtech.com/featured/camera-see3cam_cu30-review/
How to Install it on other 3d printer ?
to install compiled firmware, just pop the the firmware.bin on the card insert it in and power cycle your machine
anyone had issues getting the BTT board to work with octopi? octopi doesn't see it for me (upgraded to newer firmware before testing from their git repo). The USB port with the cable provided feels a bit slack :(
My first tip would be to change the cable. Next check the serial port settings in your firmware
@@notenoughtech note to self... try more cables.... it sprung into life.... very weird as the other cables I used on the old board.
It's a thing that gets me most. Usually when I see a lose cable I go for the next one.
@@notenoughtech now to scratch my head on why my cr touch doesnt work now.... never rains but it pours.
It didnt work for me.
can I put at cr10s4,any different?
I really new on this,pls someone teach me?😿
How to set Vref on this motherboard?
As the steppers use UART i believe all you need is to change the relevant value in Marlin.
@@notenoughtech thanks
Please, has someone found the firmware for the CR-10?
Try using Ender 3 file with changed bed size
Too bad it doesnt have two z stepper drivers. Would have been the perfect board for an Ender 3 dual z upgrade.
Introduction of a separate stepper driver would lead to more expensive board as you need to synch these up. I'd like to see someone going in details about the actual benefit (other than heat reduction) by having another driver instead of sharing the same signal.
The only thing I could think of is the current available to both motors.
It's halved so is the load per individual stepper. For machine this size it wouldn't be an issue.
I have a Ender 3 Pro and I successfully replaced and installed everything except my fan.There’s 1 red and 1 black wire that I don’t see where it can go.Any help?
Which fan do you need to connect?
That goes in Fan 1 slot (above the other fan slots). You'd need a JST adapter, or you can do what I did and solder the wires directly to the pins. Red to positive, black to negative.
@@icebird76 Which option is more easier?😅
@@malikhunter6504 Probably soldering, but I'm not sure of any safety hazards (which it may be). With the connector you would either need to just get the end piece and also a crimp tool that you'll probably never need again to install the connector. There are also premade wires, but then you still need to strip away some shielding on the premade wire and connect the premade wire to the existing wire. Could use solder there or heat shrink tubing with solder.
As for soldering, it cost me nothing since I already had the kit. I melted a little bit of solder directly on the tip, then quickly touched the wire to the pin and touched the soldering iron to the wires so it bonded. And I can use soldering kit for other projects.
You can put Dupont wires on individual pins. It's probably the easiest way without using JST.
I would recommend jst kit tho. Comes in handy
MY CR 10 MAIN BORD CRAPED OUT WONT READ G CODE BEYONG AUTO HOMEING AND PREHEATING SO I ORDER THE BORD
Have you tried flashing firmware on your cr10? Maybe it's possible to rescue it
@@notenoughtech I've tried it it was time to upgrade bord besides I'm building a voron
Afternoon mate.
My end stops don’t work I am at a loss I started by upgrading the hotend and thermistor then I had to update the firmware. Then the steppers wouldn’t work so I got a btt skr mini e3 3.0 and now the endstops don’t work and the fans aswell. Help please. I’m ready to throw it all away
What firmware did you use? It's unlikely your board, most likely the firmware isn't compatible right now and needs some work. What upgrades do you have and where did you get your firmware from?
@@notenoughtech ok so I used th3d firmware and I have it working the x and y endstops needed to be switched opposite of what the main board say on it. Weird. But now it tried to go to far to the front left corner when bed leveling. How do I tell it that the probe is the nozzle and what not. Iv been at this for a while I really appreciate the help soo much
Are you compiling the board firmware yourself and using configuration files?
Sounds like stuff has been really messed up in these if you need that much changes. (Providing wiring was spot on) what's the printer that you have? I used the config file for ender3 for this board for GitHub. Worked first time without any issues.
@@notenoughtech I have a ender 5 pro
Ok it will require some adjustments in marlin as the board has config files for bed slinger types. But you should get it to work. I'd start with baseline ender 3 btt config and compare it with ender5 stock configuration.
It is a bit noisy. Is that a Chinese BL touch? You need your printer in a small server case. Plus down the shed mate.
Wait until fully silenced :)
@NotEnoughTECH Printoid for the win. My Shed is 30 metres away from the house. Backyard is big.
I'm not living in sunny uplands. My shed humidity is probably like 70-80% it's not the best place for prints especially that temp would still drop to 0 overnight
@@notenoughtech Oh, gets cold here in winter, but I will put in a gas bottle stove mate.
Just make sure not to burn the shed down. Its all about managing the risks.
im disappointed it doesnt come with usb-c
We both agree here
@@notenoughtech especially since it doesnt take much to add it
Ender 3 S1 has one. I was really surprised with it and at the price of 275£ I honestly think this is a great printer. Take a look at my video about it
@@notenoughtech copy.
are you going to review that charger you showed and mentioned?
also your audio balance in most of ur videos is really wack. i cant hear you clearly.
Нет
invest in a mike, makes you sound understandable...
If your poor laptop speakers struggle this much... There is a written version of this video served in description as a link
The board sucks. QC is awful and support is abysmal. Anyone promoting BTT products is selling them with affiliate links.They have a vested interest in you buying the product.
I have several BTT products since I started printing 2 years ago and so far all of them are in tip top shape. What happened to yours?
See comments on stuff like this all the time, there's a lot of stuff that is user error, not setting up right or pushing it beyond limits is the usual fault. Yes there is room for error, it's not always quality control.
@@bluemgt06 Support for the board is awful, the given firmware was broken. The early editions of the board dropped like flies due to shoddy build material and workmanship. Just all around "kwality" stuff.
I bought it, installed it. I did one test print, ran a temp tower test, started a retraction tower test & the extruder driver failed. This board is a piece of garbage. Total waste of money. DO NOT BUY !
Have you reached out to the manufacturer?