I think some of these comments forget that many beginners like myself aren’t even sure we’re going to do 3D printing long term, and just want something that works well enough without committing huge amounts of time and money
Same here. Ive been researching for a while, and i stopped because of how difficult and expensive it is. I kept looking, and i found out the comments and people talking are talking advanced on a beginners video, so it made no sense to me at the time
i got an ender 3 for 2020 christmas and me and my dad took a full night building it and i didnt use it for 2021-2023 but after a full day of tinkering with it i got it working good and have printed more in the last couple of day than the entire time i have owned it.
I TOTALLY AGREE WITH YOU. But that is not a problem that is particular to 3D printing. Its the same throughout the IT/Technology world. Those people that really understand a subject seem to forget that they knew nothing at one point years ago. They start rattling off words and just assume that everyone can understand what they are saying. I use a free and open source 3d modeling/video editing/game making program called Blender3D. I found it online back in 2001. I downloaded it and installed it, fired it up and the interface was so confusing that I shut it down and did not fire the program back of for 6 months. ( To be fair Blender3D was originally written for an SGI graphics workstation running UNIX. The creators just did a straight port to windows and did not bother to change things to fit the new operating system) I finally got determined to learn it and just kept on reading so called "tutorials" on line. i finally came across a tutorial where you created a hammer standing on a wood grain surface. The author went step by step, keystroke by keystroke. I successfully completed it and have been using Blender ever since. But if it were not for that one tutorial I would have given up. These days the situation has gotten even worse since social media and the internet are popular. These days people just press the record button on a screen recording program and start to talk. They seem clueless to the fact that the people that will be watching the so called "tutorial" cannot see their keyboard or mouse. I mentioned this on a Blender3d forum and got totally flamed.
I’m not a proponent of the industry trend to block the ability to fully customize the source code on klipper devices. It’s a “better to have it, and not need it” situation that would make a world of difference in perfecting print settings, not to mention more consumer-friendly for advanced users.
I remember when they wouldn't give us root on sonicpad, someone figured out how to get root and they made an update to release root option. I fully agree. I bought the sonicpad when it was still in the early days and they tried to block us from updating klipper and mainsail
Super happy with my V3 SE as a first 3d printer, easy to setup and get started. I did find exactly the same issue with the slicer, some models I imported it does weird things to the inner perimeter. I couldn't find any fix for it so tried Prusa slicer, it had no issues with the same model so I stuck with it and like it :) From the perspective of someone who wants a 3D printer as a tool to use, to print out some of the ideas in my head, this printer has been brilliant for me.
Probably a good call to switch. I got a 3 v3 SE as my first 3D printer and figured I may as well use their slicer cause why not. I didn't have really too many issues at all until I updated the program and.... It wiped all of my profiles. About 2 weeks worth of work dumped. So that was fun.
That's actually good to know as I'm watching this video for the that exact reason. I want to build functional parts mostly mostly for my invertebrate collection. Just needs to get the job done with good print quality.
I got 4 of these back in October and have ran about 20-25kg through each one. I switched out the nozzle size and switched to a glass bed for personal preference. I am more than impressed with this, all my machine have been running flawless, and at significantly higher speeds than my other printers.
I just got this printer recently, and I have to say I appreciate how "sticky" the bed is. I don't use any glue stick, and only once did I have a print get knocked out of place, and that was with cheaper PLA. And regarding TPU, I print it at 70° with no problems, the prints peel up easily enough afterwards. Also, the screen isn't becoming "unresponsive" during automatic functions, it locks you out because it's busy.
A glue stick is used as an adhesion *inhibitor*. It allows for easier separation from the build surface and is suitable for more flexible filaments, like PETG and TPU, which can destroy smooth PEI. Adjust your Z offset and clean the print surface if you have adhesion issues.
@@theofficialczex1708 Ah I thought it was to help it stick, my one print that was knocked off, I put down some glue stick and it held for the rest of the print (it was a multipart and I didn't want the other pieces to get messed up). But my TPU prints come off the build plate very easily, sometimes I can even peel them up without taking off the build plate. How would it damage the plate?
@@Manu__R It depends on the surface, but smooth PEI is notorious for ripping off when using TPU or PETG. Glue likely helped because your offset is higher than it should be.
Screen function is clearly for beginners to not mess up something during those operations. But they should add some clear animation that progress is happening.
I got one of these a while back to get into the tool space, after watching your previous ender-3 video. I got this printer as a tool, not a hobby (I don’t care about open source or modality). I was up and running in 30 minutes, no issues since, and no tuning. It has been an amazing tool that has allowed me to build parts that I couldn’t before, and at an incredibly low price. For what it’s worth, I have no high spot on my printer bed, my leveling outputs are all quite consistent. I did have some odd slicer outputs similar to what you displayed, I haven’t found why it happens, or a definitive solution, although it’s mostly a non issue. Edit: thanks for the slicer profile, I will give that a shot
I'm using cura slicer for my ender 3 v3 se. There's no profile for it but I've been using the s1 profile and I've just altered print speed. I print most things at 180mm/s max to reduce rocking.
@@AcidburnHckr yes! newest version should have it (I wasn't sure, since I have the manually installed profile that I got from their github, but it should be the same thing)
I'll hold out until that one launches, just so I can save $7 on this one. Or should I go for the one that's $11 more and has something slightly different, that I can't quite put my finger on?
Thank you for the comprehensive reviews. We appreciate all the feedback, both positive and constructive. Anticipating more of your outstanding videos in the future.
Fair review and response to your prior comments on creality. I watched your review with interest to fully understand your point of view on the printer I’ve owned for a month. You’re right about the runout sensor, I hope it can be fixed soon enough. I will definitely have a look at your profile for prusha slicer. Thanks for your efforts on this. I have no idea how to create a profile in the cura slicer so this will help me understand more.
One thing I find about reviews is that far more emphasis is put on speed than I care about, I would much rather have a better print that took twice as long wheres most reviewers really prize speed. Cheers
While their list of offerings is mind numbing, Creality selling everything they ever made to this day is actually wonderful for me knowing I can get parts for my CR-10V2, or the myriad of projects people have based on a ~6 yr old design that still exists. I think Right To Repair is important environmentally. If anything what I would recommend they do is make a "Legacy" section to put older models under
Thanks for taking the time to record, edit, and share this! Really nice looking offer from Creality for the price. I'm still rocking my E3 V2, added a CR Touch last year, and about to swap out the extruder and hot end for a Sprite combo unit, pretty stoked about that.
I loved my OG (then gradually upgraded) Ender 3 so much that Creality has warm spot in my heart. I've recently upgraded to Bambu but I love that there's a great new Ender to suggest to new people joining the hobby.
Enders and their owners are such a perfect example of the 'Humans will pack-bond with anything' phenomenon. After all the cable management mods, cooling fan/duct upgrades, belt tensioner locks, Sonic Pad mount, zero-offset probe mount, and endless hours of tweaking and troubleshooting, my E3 S1 Pro is *mine* 🥰 A brand new, objectively superior, just-works-straight-out-the-box replacement wouldn't hold the same place in my heart. Then again, maybe it's just some unholy mashup of sunk cost fallacy and Stockholm syndrome, who knows 😅
@@glittalogik An Ender 3 Pro almost killed my interest in the hobby. I believe it was a perfect storm of QC oversights. The thing didn't work consistently or properly. Then I bought an "entry level beginner's printer" from Mingda and it gave me what I wanted: very good prints with almost no interaction by me, which got me enthusiastic again. It's a hit-or-miss hobby.
Ive seen that green tree triangle stuff, in my case it was due to multiple faces defined in the same area. Id use boolean operations in blender and had been lazy and not cleaned everything. After clearing out the duped surfaces and vertices, the green went away again.
I just got the Ender 3 v3 ke and i'm really loving it. Not alot of review content out on it tho? I would love to hear others experiences with it but it seems the SE is the only one being pushed to review.
I have one. Only complaint is that the z offset is slightly too high. I just turned up 1st layer flow to 120% and all is good. The thing is fast, so fast for a bed slinger.
I asked my partner for a 3D printer for Christmas and since she doesn’t know anything about 3D printers I had to select one and share it with her. After having done some research I choose the Ender 3 V3 SE. Then I saw your Creality video and started doubting my choice lol. I decided to stick with it though, because it seemed like a good choice and a lot of your criticism didn’t seem to really apply to it. Glad I did :D
Same here! The V3 SE was my first 3D printer too, and I had a smooth setup. I also switched to Prusa slicer and it made a significant difference. Loving the printer for bringing my ideas to life! 😊
Could you share the slicer settings. I'm new to 3d printing and went with cura cuz it seemed simpler. But I'm having some issues. Not sure if it's printer or slicer.
this is my first printer and its been amazing, i print at 180mms not 150mms, i did a couple at 200mms with no issues and with pla my bed can be 50 and minimal sticking, i did find the creality slicer to be limited and once i went to cura and got a profile done its been great.
My Ender 3 is awesome, I love having a printer I can modify, customize, and upgrade, but I think I'm gonna buy the V3 SE or V3 KE because it'd be nice to have a printer that just works. And when my Ender 3 needs a replacement part, the V3 can print a temporary part to use while I wait for a replacement to be delivered
Yes having an X1C would be nice, but if my Ender 3 breaks I can fix it. I’ve modified it enough to know how to fix it and the parts are easy to get or print. Your reasoning for wanting the V3 is the same as mine. Don’t sleep on the Kingroon KP3S Pro either. I put Klipper on mine and for the price, it prints beautifully.
I have the KE, and it's everything I could've asked for. Auto bed leveling, wifi control, extremely fast, and I don't need to mod it like my previous ender 3. Highly recommend for someone who just does casual prints
With the CR-6 SE, the touch screen basically works as a defective version of the rotary knob UI. Not sure if this from the Community firmware, or is a "gift" from Creality. So, not having a touch screen GUI for the Ender 3 V3 SE might be a feature, rather than a gap.
Honestly it's really good for a Creality option. Mine is also pretty good, although I'm not the biggest fan of the fixed bed. Some have it super leveled, some have it insanely unleveled, other times it's just the gantry that's not perfectly squared, like mine was. I don't think that high spot on the bed is the cause of the weight sensor tho, it's probably just the plastic peg that's too long, mine is at almost 0.00
I hate the trope of “don’t get that printer on a great sale, spend $500” I’ve wanted one for years to use as another tool in my kit but haven’t wanted to break the bank on something I’m only going to use to fabricate clips and the like every once in a while. I finally picked up an ender 3v2 and it’s amazing for the price of $40 I paid new. It can print basically anything any other standard fdm printer can print albeit a bit slower and I think it’s great. This was after I was discouraged by a 3d printing snob and told that it would only be worth the price if I spent hundreds upgrading it. Not everyone who wants a 3d printer wants to get into your hobby, some people are technically adept enough to easily use printers but just want them as a tool to have around. I honestly feel like it pushes people away from the community as a whole when people say that sort of stuff, $40 is a very inexpensive price and although it’s obviously not going to be as nice as a $500 printer, it’s a lot of added capability for the kind of money you don’t even have to think about.
I've been watching your videos for a couple of years now and the Ender-3 v3 se is the first 3d printer that I've owned. The reasons being that it's now cheap enough and a fully usable 3d printer that doesn't require additional modding. Just download or cad an object, slice it and print it. There are very few print failures so it's pretty much a case of load the sdcard and filament, select print and wait until it's finished. So now whether I'm repairing something, trying to mod or improve something, or print hobby bits (rc cars and trucks) I can get on with what I'm doing rather than the hobby being having to mod a 3d printer until it's finally usable.
Sounds like you may have missed the S1/S1 Pro experience which is pretty similar to what I see in the video of the V3 unboxing/setup. S1 was plagued with its own share of issues, though, but it was still worlds better than a regular Ender-3
Nice haircut Angus, I just ordered 3 a1minis for my classroom. I’m so excited. It really does say a lot about creality that they keep sending you printers to review.
I was gifted and just started using for my first ever machine a V2. I must have got one of the good ones because it's been pretty easy to use so far. My one giant complaint has been loading filament into the drive module. The factory hole past the rollers is maybe 2mm wide and almost impossible to thread into. So I drilled it out to about 4-5mm and now I can swap filament far more easily. I did see your video about the z-axis limit switch being too high, and I made that modification as well. The run-out on the springs is a real problem. Today I'm getting a spring steel print bed to upgrade from the glass. Thanks for the well made and informative videos!
Thank you for your review, as someone who has watched from the sidelines for so long and looking for an entry point. Watching until the end was helpful.
I just received a KE yesterday and wow, this thing rocks. It prints filament that other printers fail on. Process: Grab printer, spend 5 minutes putting it together, power it up, connect it to my WiFi (easy), grab my usual print and the worst filament I have (Stronghero Galaxy Chameleon), load their slicer, slice it as usual with no support. After a single failed print (my fault), it just crushed the first print in 10 hours. What were the changes you made? I do get some stringing, but it's not terrible (compared to the nightmare of stringing that my Prusa has) and I'd love to get rid of stringing where I can.
I bought one on pre-order. It's my first printer and I love it! The coating on the bed came off but Creality sent me a replacement. I removed the full coating and the glue from the old one and ordered a thin sheet of G10, which I then glued on the spring steel. This way I don't need to use clamps but I get the benefits of G10 print bed. I haven't even used the new build plate they sent me.
I had exactly the same thing happen to me, on the VERY FIRST print. Solved it by putting a glass bed on it. I have now put 4 full spools through it with no issues, I really hate these flexible plates, never worked for me in the past . I had hoped with the auto levelling that this machine would be different, but no. I also have a replacement build sheet from them, but like you it's still in the box....lol
I'm actually going to get this one. I'm a new printer. I started at school with the ender 3. My school owns 3 ender3s and I fixed all for only being a beginner. I'm really excited to start the ender3 v3 se
It's actually much easier to remove the prints by taking the whole print sheet off and flex it back and forth. Taking the print off the PEI coated bed by force will damage it
6:04 I broke my bed within two days of having it and had it get a replacement. The bed was too sticky. So much so that I eliminated the skirt since that was just a nightmare to get off.
I love my Ender 3 V2. After initial setup 3 years ago, every print has been perfect and I have printed a lot of stuff on it. Considering the Ender 3 V3 SE at that price point.
I'm new to the 3D printing world, but a dinosaur in the manufacturing industry. I like my Ender 3 S1 Pro. I was easy enough to get started with and advanced enough to make some really good prints. I tend to create more functional models, not that artist models don't have their purpose. The S1 Pro seems to produce fairly repeatable results. Some of the print in place moving models are a little tight, but I think that could be tuned out with some testing. The S1 Pro had the biggest bed of an almost fully assembled printer that I could afford at the time. I do wish I'd had the funds for a multicolor model.
Much improved, but Creality still cant get the firmware parts correct. Should be using 5x5 mesh grid instead of 4x4, no input shaping enabled? Input shaping on marlin works great, ive been using it for months and can crank out 30 min standard settings benchys on an original ender 3 with some upgrades.
Honestly, comparing the ender 3 v2 to my Wanhao Duplicator i3, I've had only 1 real issue with my v2 and that was recent. The main driving gear collate had such a deep groove from the filament that it could no longer push the filament correctly. I didn't expect it to wear out after maybe... 4 spools of PLA? Otherwise, great machine so far. Also, thank you for making the video about laser cutters a few months back. My parents asked me if I would use a laser cutter or a lathe more and I did discover that laser cutters can act a little like lathes with the right tools. Even though the one I got doesn't have an enclosure, I'm not going to even plug it in until I get one (the enclosure and cutter were outside of their budget). Sucks that even the lowest end fully enclosed laser is still like $1,000 USD. I've been wanting one for years but knew the logistic nightmare while still being safe. I will absolutely be rewatching that video many times while considering what to cut. Thank you ^^.
I have the ender 3 v2 Neo. I'm a complete beginner and it works really well. Setup was done in like 15 minutes plus the leveling. And it hasn't ever failed on me so far. It's not fast but it does creat clean prints.
The K1 on sale right now for $350 is a worthwhile upgrade, I just got one but returned it because the gantry belts don't line up and cause part warp of about 0.5-1.5%. Which for most all prints doesn't matter and you won't notice, but once you start making precise parts that need to fit perfectly then anywhere near 1% is a deal breaker. I wanted a appliance type printer, I already have 4 other printers that I've designed parts and upgrades myself for them, didn't want to dig into a new project. Hence I returned it
@@Splarkszter i really want to avoid creality and get a bambu A1, do you think it would be worth it pre-ordering for it? It's pretty hard to get it in my country.
@@Otawakun Well, if you are from a country that is not from the european union or the united states then be careful and get it from a distributor that can secure that you will receive technical help in case something fails.
@@Otawakun and the "don't buy from creality bud" take it more like a "don't buy any printer from creality whose name starts in CR". Creality is only good doing printers related to the Ender 2 and Ender 3. The K1 is becoming open source and the community is becoming their own technical service, however if you don't trust yoursefl for repair things then don't go for it.
Nice! Saw the previous vid just after I bought mine so I'm happy to see this better news 😂 im a lvl 0 beginner and you're definitely right about me being able to get started quickly, mostly
@@MakersMuse oh and something about its ridiculous default max acceleration (4000) and about how it supposedly even overrides things that you've manually specified? Which could cause problems? I heard about it in a video somewhere
Just purchased this printer as my first printer. Having decent luck so far. I can say larger less detailed prints have worked great but a few projects that are smaller or that have little more detail don't seem to work the best. Using the provided slicer from creality. Is pursa better/easier to use and have you worked out your setting Profile yet
Any update on the PrusaSlicer profile? I can’t wait to ditch Creality Print, but I’m not skilled enough to build my own profile. Thanks for putting that out there
Thank you so much for taking the time to break down information about this interesting new sector- as an entrepreneur that's just starting out with zero Capital whatsoever, I don't have the luxury of being able to send complicated specs to some factory to extrude the items that I need to start my business idea, which means that I was drawn to 3D printing as a way to sidestep this and keep all manufacturing in-house for my new product. I just want you to know how much I appreciate you taking the time to share your wisdom and experience on this subject, because you're helping me get this dream off the ground. Best of luck to you
‘Zed’ ! Awesome. Thank you very much for this. Total noob and got this for my daughter on a friend’s recommendation. Your knowledge and explanations are super helpful. I’m looking forward to trying this out.
3 weeks into a v3 SE as my first printer. ABL and auto Z worked well at first but now it never hits the mark. I have to manually level the mesh now which takes sometimes over a dozen test prints. The manually gathered values are only useful for a few prints before I have to do another run and adjust again. Really wish I held out another week and just grabbed an A1.
Thank you for this video. The information you provided was great. Hoping to soon purchase a 3d printer and videos like this help to decide what's out there and the quality of the product. Right now it's just a dream to own one but when I eventually can ill be ready to make good choices at reasonable prices for a beginner. Again thank you.
You should do a top printers of 2023 or top printers for beginners video cause I am looking into getting a new one but damn are some of the things more confusing than they were
I got an ender 3 v2 neo about a year ago at the last year's black Friday and it's never given me any problems, in fact it's been very reliable and prints great, now that I know 3d printing is definitely for me, my next printer will be a bamboo labs one for sure. One ender 3 is enough, or maybe I'll sell it to get the bamboo
I have bought one of these as my first 3D printer. Is well worth the price. I do have several nits. Like you the bed was too sticky and I changed it. Also agree the left corner on was high until I fixed and the hood is BIG. The only real bug is with the auto bed level. The auto z-offset tends to be a bit to high. Causing the 2nd layer sometimes dragging on the first. Lowering a bit fixes that problem. BTW I get OK quality w/ 170 mm/sec on TLA but usually max at 150-130.
Why do people make such a big deal about bed leveling!?! I’s really not that hard to learn how to level the bed and set the correct offset from the nozzle. I level my bed on the fly as the printer is printing the brim / skirt. As others have said, this printer is cool but no longer seems as moddable as the earlier versions of the Ender 3.
because it's quick and easy Although that comes at a price of effectiveness. I really don't think compensating for an unleveled bed in software is comparable to not having it unleveled at all or being able to level it in hardware. The auto Z offset is pretty cool however and worked wonderfully for me.
@@zUltra3D yea in my opinion, you should learn the basic mechanics of the machine before just wanting to print a bunch of parts. Most i3 style machines that tout having ABL are just complicating the mechanism and add another level of complexity to an entry level user that would have a hard time troubleshooting if it were to malfunction or not work correctly. The only time I’d say ABL is necessary is for larger machines with a large build plate that would make manual leveling very time consuming or difficult because there is a lot more room for variation in the middle of a large plate, far away from the adjustment knobs. It’s kind of like wanting to learn to drive a car, but relying on a new cars self driving technology to really do the work for you instead of actually learning how to drive yourself.
I hate the default Creality buildplates. Never had good experience with them. Removing small parts is almost impossible, and with large parts the bed top surface can actually rip when removing prints. Instantly replace it with PEI.
I had an ender v2 neo with the sprite SE on it with a sonic pad and LOVE IT. it is fast af and reliable af for PETG and PLA. I also have a Tempered glass bed but might move to G10 for speed.
Great printer - another issue that I have is the cable out the back of the bed - for a compact printer, that thing sticks out about 3 miles. Love the printer though.
Love your videos! You've helped me a lot over the years! Can you do an updated video on making Lithophanes with the newer machines? Like a Bambu X1C? I got them down pretty good with my old creality printers, but I've sold those now... Also, Makers Muse and CNC Kitchen are about the only TH-cam makers I trust anymore.
This printer is around £150 in the UK right now, for £20 more, you can get the A1 Mini. While the A1 mini has a smaller print bed, if you can use that then the mini will print 9/10 prints no problem, the Ender, lucky if you get 4/10. I like the Ender 3 V3 SE when I got it, it just worked, but then the auto bed levelling just stopped working, which meant the auto Z Level stopped working and I had to keep setting these up manually. Meanwhile, the A1 mini just worked, all the time. I had 4 Ender printers (2 x Ender 3 neo, 1 x Ender 3 v2 neo and the Ender 3 v3 SE with the sprite hot end) and I have now sold them all. Moved over to 1 A1 and 2 A1 minis, now all my prints just work.
There's no way to simply tie two spools together, so when one spool is empty, the next spool sill continue? (Like splice the start of one spool to the end of the first mostly empty spool, so when the first spool runs out, the new spool will just continue without any delay or without needing a cut-off switch when the spool runs out.)
Great video! I am still using one of the very first Ender 3s that has never been upgraded, still works. Just can’t afford a newer printer thanks for the opinion though 😊
Interesting review. I've had my v3SE since October and for the most part, it has been fine. I'll address the big problem I had in a moment. As far as adhesion to the print bed goes, I haven't noticed the problems you had, in fact, the out of the box print bed works fine for me at 60C. What I ALWAYS do between prints though, is to clean the surface with 70% IPA using a box store type micro-fiber rag. Mine print bed still looks brand new. I also got one of the new PEI "gold" print beds, and had a reverse issue; I was having not enough sticking, so for now, I changed back to the original. Ok, now for the problem. When I finally got the printer set up, I printed the heck out of it for the first week. If there was going to be manufacturing issues, I wanted to find the fast. I am using Creality Hyper PLA for most prints, and used Creality Slicer. Like you, i got a profile for Prusa Slicer and had issues, so I switched back. My issue was a problem with the hot end servo control. Sometimes it would be fine, keeping the temp within +/- 1C of target, but other times the temp would bounce around, which finally would cause the firmware to throw a "nozzle temp too low" error along with a very annoying sound which could only be turned off by powering it off. This would happen now and then and I found that by changing the fill pattern from grid to honeycomb changed "something" enough to make the problem go away. But eventually, the error would happened when just trying to retract filament. After a few round with Creality Cust Service, they finally decided to send me a new hot end (i think). I'm still waiting on it. I'm not sure if it will come with instructions, so we'll have to wait and see. overall, (this is my first 3D printer), I'm happen with how it prints.
I had the same issue with the "nozzle temp too low" and I found a way to fix it. You have to tighten the nut that holds the thermocouple to the nozzle. Just remove the rubber cover and use an Allen wrench from the bottom
i will check that. Creality sent me a new hot end, but I haven't installed it yet. I'll try your idea. From the symptoms I figured the issue had something to do with the feedback loop of the heating cycle. I figured it was a damaged thermocouple but if tightening it fixes things, i am good with that!
@alankilgore1132 I noticed that I kept having to tighten it every few days, so I decided to remove the thermistor to see what was going on. When I removed the thermistor, a bunch of white stuff fell out so I cleaned everything and reassembled it. Haven't had a problem since so you may want to check that.
@@ianb119 Not sure how to remove the thermister since it appears to be press fit or glued into the mounting hole. So, I will have to figure ou how to replace the hot end. Is the hot end on the v3 SE the same as any of the other Ender printers? I haven't found a video of how to remove this specific hot end, but since the printer is new, that isn't surprising.
At $199 it's $50 cheaper than my E3v2 was 4 or 5 years ago. I don't see where you could go wrong. I would imagine a filament run out sensor could be added for a few doll hairs, but I've never needed one. I've nodded my E3v2 quite a bit and that's an option I've never seen a need for.
Hey Angus, Awesome video & good to see this inexpensive legend gettting some of the love it deserves. I'm a teaching assistant in the technology faculty of a school & we acutally bought 3 of these machines very shortly after they launched in an attempt to take the load of lower priority prints off of our farm of Prusa I3's. We're running them exculsivley on Esun PLA+ to keep things simple and mostly using them for less important jobs and those from younger students. We've found them to be really easy to setup and run and havn't had any major issues yet, which I can't even say about the prusa MK4's. For those who are on tight budgets or just looking for a lot of output at minimal cost, I'd struggle to reccomend anything else at this point. One thing I'd reccomend to you is to make a prusaslicer printer profile based off of the Ender 3 S1 profile that is included in prusaslicer, the two printers are very similar in build and even use the same exruder. You'll end up with a stack of ready to use print profiles for a range of layer heights that produce excellent results and require basically no tuning - it's been working really well for us so far - hope that helps. Also, I think that there we're some other creality printers that launched recently that use the same shape of spring steel sheet with a PEI coating (might have been the K1?), those would probably make for a great drop-in upgrade over the standard sheet.
I just bought a prusa I3 mk2 and I am SO HAPPY I DID. I had an ender 3 pro and I HATE IT. seems like i had to do >1hr of maintenance for every hour of printing.
I got the KE, still stock. Works fine and got succesfull prints everytime. I tried priting at 500mm/s but had way too much gosthing. 300mm/s gets me perfect prints
Make sure when you set up that you tighten ALL the screws. Mine set up well enough, but all my gantry screws were a little loose, and I had to level the gantry to get rid of low spots on the print bed.
I got a KE instead of an SE a bit ago, and man not a single bit of stringing with PLA at high speeds. Had to increase the retraction to 1mm for PETG to remove stringing but still. Very cool printers
This is just me personally, but I love all my Creality printers. I can't afford most other ones and I've never an issue I couldn't iron out myself eventually with either one. To each their own, but I'm kind of a Creality fan
Tbh in my opinion there are only 2 ways to get into 3d printing: buy the cheapest used ender 3 (just to fiddle around, learn and maybe break something without having to worry too much) in your location or buy the Bambu Lab A1
Getting one for my first 3D printer, I've been very happy. I don't want to tinker with it but actually get usable prints and with PLA I can't complain. For the price, it's a been a great way to get into printing.
I have one of these. The automatic levelling and the magnetic flexible surface mean it is genuinely plug and play. Once I had the right temperature for my PLA (sunlu meta, seems to work at 185'c perfectly on my printer) I just design stuff and print it. Usually with no - or minimal - supports, a skirt, and a slightly increased retraction to minimise stringing. BUT THAT'S IT. No glue on the print surface, no adhesion problems, no levelling issues. It is DEAD SIMPLE to change filament and I even got octoprint working with it on a Raspberry Pi ZeroW just by running through a couple of online tutorials. Alongside Cura the whole setup is no longer a hobby setup that needs tinkering with, it is simply a tool for making stuff. Over a year after buying my Ender 3 v3 SE I still occasionally look at it and marvel at the tiny price for all that functionality and polish. If you are considering one, BUY IT.
I was thinking about picking up one of the Ender 3 V3 KE printers till you reminded me that the bambu labs one exists. I'm in the market for my 5th printer, might as well swap around brands again.
Good to see some change. I’m impressed with the offset force sensor. I must admit to think about changing out my work horse and am tossing up with a k1 or maybe a bamboo lab but the extra cost of the bamboo lab seems hard to justify.
Its interesting to note the discussions around troubleshooting and fine-tuning for the Ender-3 V3 SE. Users experiences add depth to the understanding of this printer.
Dumb question from someone looking into 3DP.... Why do so many of these printers move the bed? Doesn't moving all that mass (even empty, more as it fills up) seem inefficient? Shouldn't you just move the small mass of the print head and only move the bed up and down slowly? Am I missing something? I feel like I am, cause almost all the printers I see move the bed forward and back.
You're a synth guy!! Nice ... I just picked up DM12D, my first analog synth it was on resale for a price too hard to pass up even rhough i wanted rhe Hydrasynth Explorer ...looking at spending way too much money on lathe, mill and 3d printer. What 3 3d printers ahould I be looking at as a newb?
The first time I ever printed on my Ender 3 the part stuck to the bed so well that part of it's still there 6 months later. The purple washable glue sticks are a must-have. I'm sure there are others that work well too, but these are guaranteed to work... so I recommend trying these first and then buy other products to try in between when you're not printing anything important.
So i got one of these for myself for Christmas, and i was also incredibly confused looking at all the different models of ender 3. But i ginally got this, and once id worked out its setup quirks properly, its worked fine for me
It actually does have filament detection capabilities but you have to open up the bottom plate and you have to connect it to the main board, but luckily the tools that they give you are more than capable of doing that!
I bought this printer as my first 3D printer, and while it seems to be very competitive at its price point, I think I should've spent a bit more e.g. for the A1 mini. I'm sure I'll still get plenty of use out of it though (after replacing the print bed with something else)
If you're spending money on a new build surface anyway, I strongly recommend shelling out for a Wham Bam PEI plate. I upgraded from the OEM Creality plate on my S1 Pro and it's in a completely different league. I've cleaned the plate maybe twice in the last 6 months and PLA adhesion/release is perfect every time.
i have the v2, just helped my brother set up his v3 se, he has minimal computer knowledge, and he's picked up on it so quick, amazing for beginners imo
My quick review as someone who bought it. (he was pretty spot on) 1. the bed it comes with is eh, I replaced it with a glass bed after a week because prints were sticking too well 2. the assemble was amazing 3. The auto z-offset doesnt work for me. its a little too close or too far and I end up adjusting it anyways 4. probably the best beginer printer 5. consistent 6. careful with the SD card, mine doesn't go in all the way now and stops mid print at times.
I think some of these comments forget that many beginners like myself aren’t even sure we’re going to do 3D printing long term, and just want something that works well enough without committing huge amounts of time and money
Exactly I just bought one today from Marketplace lol
Same here. Ive been researching for a while, and i stopped because of how difficult and expensive it is. I kept looking, and i found out the comments and people talking are talking advanced on a beginners video, so it made no sense to me at the time
i got an ender 3 for 2020 christmas and me and my dad took a full night building it and i didnt use it for 2021-2023 but after a full day of tinkering with it i got it working good and have printed more in the last couple of day than the entire time i have owned it.
I TOTALLY AGREE WITH YOU. But that is not a problem that is particular to 3D printing. Its the same throughout the IT/Technology world.
Those people that really understand a subject seem to forget that they knew nothing at one point years ago. They start rattling off words and just assume that everyone can understand what they are saying.
I use a free and open source 3d modeling/video editing/game making program called Blender3D. I found it online back in 2001. I downloaded it and installed it, fired it up and the interface was so confusing that I shut it down and did not fire the program back of for 6 months.
( To be fair Blender3D was originally written for an SGI graphics workstation running UNIX. The creators just did a straight port to windows and did not bother to change things to fit the new operating system)
I finally got determined to learn it and just kept on reading so called "tutorials" on line. i finally came across a tutorial where you created a hammer standing on a wood grain surface. The author went step by step, keystroke by keystroke. I successfully completed it and have been using Blender ever since. But if it were not for that one tutorial I would have given up.
These days the situation has gotten even worse since social media and the internet are popular. These days people just press the record button on a screen recording program and start to talk. They seem clueless to the fact that the people that will be watching the so called "tutorial" cannot see their keyboard or mouse.
I mentioned this on a Blender3d forum and got totally flamed.
@@gasknightsermoon d1. Had me like that 😂
I’m not a proponent of the industry trend to block the ability to fully customize the source code on klipper devices. It’s a “better to have it, and not need it” situation that would make a world of difference in perfecting print settings, not to mention more consumer-friendly for advanced users.
Can't have users poking around your "open source" code though when there are traces of it being lifted from other device. Oops did I say that?
@@briankale5977 exactly. This is probably why Bambu is so reluctant to share source code.
I remember when they wouldn't give us root on sonicpad, someone figured out how to get root and they made an update to release root option. I fully agree. I bought the sonicpad when it was still in the early days and they tried to block us from updating klipper and mainsail
Super happy with my V3 SE as a first 3d printer, easy to setup and get started. I did find exactly the same issue with the slicer, some models I imported it does weird things to the inner perimeter. I couldn't find any fix for it so tried Prusa slicer, it had no issues with the same model so I stuck with it and like it :)
From the perspective of someone who wants a 3D printer as a tool to use, to print out some of the ideas in my head, this printer has been brilliant for me.
Does Prusa now have a good SE profile?
@@websitesthatneedanem also wondering that
Probably a good call to switch. I got a 3 v3 SE as my first 3D printer and figured I may as well use their slicer cause why not. I didn't have really too many issues at all until I updated the program and.... It wiped all of my profiles. About 2 weeks worth of work dumped. So that was fun.
Latest version of Cura has a profile for V3 SE. I have been using it for a few days and works seemlesly so far
That's actually good to know as I'm watching this video for the that exact reason. I want to build functional parts mostly mostly for my invertebrate collection. Just needs to get the job done with good print quality.
I got 4 of these back in October and have ran about 20-25kg through each one. I switched out the nozzle size and switched to a glass bed for personal preference. I am more than impressed with this, all my machine have been running flawless, and at significantly higher speeds than my other printers.
Why do I feel like this was a paid comment 🤔
Cus it 90% is @@TS_Mind_Swept
did you have to sand paper the leveling?
what do people print at such volumes? is it products for sale?
@@ligametis Some people print very large multi-part pieces, so having a small cluster lets you print in paralel time.
I just got this printer recently, and I have to say I appreciate how "sticky" the bed is. I don't use any glue stick, and only once did I have a print get knocked out of place, and that was with cheaper PLA. And regarding TPU, I print it at 70° with no problems, the prints peel up easily enough afterwards.
Also, the screen isn't becoming "unresponsive" during automatic functions, it locks you out because it's busy.
A glue stick is used as an adhesion *inhibitor*. It allows for easier separation from the build surface and is suitable for more flexible filaments, like PETG and TPU, which can destroy smooth PEI. Adjust your Z offset and clean the print surface if you have adhesion issues.
@@theofficialczex1708 Ah I thought it was to help it stick, my one print that was knocked off, I put down some glue stick and it held for the rest of the print (it was a multipart and I didn't want the other pieces to get messed up). But my TPU prints come off the build plate very easily, sometimes I can even peel them up without taking off the build plate. How would it damage the plate?
@@Manu__R It depends on the surface, but smooth PEI is notorious for ripping off when using TPU or PETG. Glue likely helped because your offset is higher than it should be.
@@theofficialczex1708 Got it, thanks
Screen function is clearly for beginners to not mess up something during those operations. But they should add some clear animation that progress is happening.
I got one of these a while back to get into the tool space, after watching your previous ender-3 video. I got this printer as a tool, not a hobby (I don’t care about open source or modality). I was up and running in 30 minutes, no issues since, and no tuning. It has been an amazing tool that has allowed me to build parts that I couldn’t before, and at an incredibly low price.
For what it’s worth, I have no high spot on my printer bed, my leveling outputs are all quite consistent.
I did have some odd slicer outputs similar to what you displayed, I haven’t found why it happens, or a definitive solution, although it’s mostly a non issue.
Edit: thanks for the slicer profile, I will give that a shot
I'm using cura slicer for my ender 3 v3 se. There's no profile for it but I've been using the s1 profile and I've just altered print speed. I print most things at 180mm/s max to reduce rocking.
@@matthewsmedley2521actually Cura just added a profile for the V3 SE recently.
@@AcidburnHckr yes! newest version should have it (I wasn't sure, since I have the manually installed profile that I got from their github, but it should be the same thing)
@@AcidburnHckr I'll have to get the newest version and try it. I've been using the profile I mentioned since I had the printer.
I have two high spots on opposite cornets at around 0.6. So just to add that it isn't an exception.
I’m holding out for the Ender 3 V3 SE Pro2 that includes the filament runout sensor
Ender 3 V4 S1 Pro Max
🤣 these names
I'll hold out until that one launches, just so I can save $7 on this one. Or should I go for the one that's $11 more and has something slightly different, that I can't quite put my finger on?
Thank you for the comprehensive reviews. We appreciate all the feedback, both positive and constructive. Anticipating more of your outstanding videos in the future.
What a surprise! You wrote comment in here. I told there is nobody to write. I asked several questions on your website. No answer whatsoever.
@@sch-handyman thats weird! someone replied instantly but sadly they were not helpful
can I wash the PEI bed with water?
warm soapy water will do the job perfectly@@simplekapibara
yes
@@simplekapibara
Fair review and response to your prior comments on creality.
I watched your review with interest to fully understand your point of view on the printer I’ve owned for a month.
You’re right about the runout sensor, I hope it can be fixed soon enough.
I will definitely have a look at your profile for prusha slicer. Thanks for your efforts on this. I have no idea how to create a profile in the cura slicer so this will help me understand more.
One thing I find about reviews is that far more emphasis is put on speed than I care about, I would much rather have a better print that took twice as long wheres most reviewers really prize speed. Cheers
You can have both.
THE100 is a fun project to build.
While their list of offerings is mind numbing, Creality selling everything they ever made to this day is actually wonderful for me knowing I can get parts for my CR-10V2, or the myriad of projects people have based on a ~6 yr old design that still exists. I think Right To Repair is important environmentally. If anything what I would recommend they do is make a "Legacy" section to put older models under
I do agree with that. I have a shoe box full of CR-10V2 parts I replaced with mods which I know I can sell to someone even now.
Thanks for taking the time to record, edit, and share this! Really nice looking offer from Creality for the price. I'm still rocking my E3 V2, added a CR Touch last year, and about to swap out the extruder and hot end for a Sprite combo unit, pretty stoked about that.
I loved my OG (then gradually upgraded) Ender 3 so much that Creality has warm spot in my heart. I've recently upgraded to Bambu but I love that there's a great new Ender to suggest to new people joining the hobby.
Enders and their owners are such a perfect example of the 'Humans will pack-bond with anything' phenomenon. After all the cable management mods, cooling fan/duct upgrades, belt tensioner locks, Sonic Pad mount, zero-offset probe mount, and endless hours of tweaking and troubleshooting, my E3 S1 Pro is *mine* 🥰 A brand new, objectively superior, just-works-straight-out-the-box replacement wouldn't hold the same place in my heart.
Then again, maybe it's just some unholy mashup of sunk cost fallacy and Stockholm syndrome, who knows 😅
@@glittalogik An Ender 3 Pro almost killed my interest in the hobby. I believe it was a perfect storm of QC oversights. The thing didn't work consistently or properly. Then I bought an "entry level beginner's printer" from Mingda and it gave me what I wanted: very good prints with almost no interaction by me, which got me enthusiastic again. It's a hit-or-miss hobby.
I completely agree. I started with an ender 3v2 neo, Which isn't great, but now i have a Bambu, but it isnt the same.
Ive seen that green tree triangle stuff, in my case it was due to multiple faces defined in the same area. Id use boolean operations in blender and had been lazy and not cleaned everything. After clearing out the duped surfaces and vertices, the green went away again.
I just got the Ender 3 v3 ke and i'm really loving it. Not alot of review content out on it tho? I would love to hear others experiences with it but it seems the SE is the only one being pushed to review.
I have one. Only complaint is that the z offset is slightly too high. I just turned up 1st layer flow to 120% and all is good. The thing is fast, so fast for a bed slinger.
I mean; there’s not much content, why don’t you make the first entry? It’s something I’ve really wanted to get into as well, I’d appreciate it.
@@TH-camstopsharingmyrealname interesting, mine came with the Z-Offset a tad too low :D
I asked my partner for a 3D printer for Christmas and since she doesn’t know anything about 3D printers I had to select one and share it with her.
After having done some research I choose the Ender 3 V3 SE. Then I saw your Creality video and started doubting my choice lol. I decided to stick with it though, because it seemed like a good choice and a lot of your criticism didn’t seem to really apply to it. Glad I did :D
Would you reccomend it for beginners who dont want to use it full time, but just as a fun and creative type of tool?
@@thehobbist5544I would really like to know this too
Same here! The V3 SE was my first 3D printer too, and I had a smooth setup. I also switched to Prusa slicer and it made a significant difference. Loving the printer for bringing my ideas to life! 😊
Could you share the slicer settings. I'm new to 3d printing and went with cura cuz it seemed simpler. But I'm having some issues. Not sure if it's printer or slicer.
yeah would be great if you can share the settings.
Spot on! The fixed bed can be a learning curve, but mastering it pays off. My V3 SE has been reliable, and I've enjoyed the creative process with it.
this is my first printer and its been amazing, i print at 180mms not 150mms, i did a couple at 200mms with no issues and with pla my bed can be 50 and minimal sticking, i did find the creality slicer to be limited and once i went to cura and got a profile done its been great.
My Ender 3 is awesome, I love having a printer I can modify, customize, and upgrade, but I think I'm gonna buy the V3 SE or V3 KE because it'd be nice to have a printer that just works. And when my Ender 3 needs a replacement part, the V3 can print a temporary part to use while I wait for a replacement to be delivered
Yes having an X1C would be nice, but if my Ender 3 breaks I can fix it. I’ve modified it enough to know how to fix it and the parts are easy to get or print. Your reasoning for wanting the V3 is the same as mine. Don’t sleep on the Kingroon KP3S Pro either. I put Klipper on mine and for the price, it prints beautifully.
Got one on Black Friday deal and loving it so far. It’s my first 3d printer so I got heaps to learn but doing all the calibrations has been a blast.
I have the KE, and it's everything I could've asked for. Auto bed leveling, wifi control, extremely fast, and I don't need to mod it like my previous ender 3. Highly recommend for someone who just does casual prints
With the CR-6 SE, the touch screen basically works as a defective version of the rotary knob UI. Not sure if this from the Community firmware, or is a "gift" from Creality. So, not having a touch screen GUI for the Ender 3 V3 SE might be a feature, rather than a gap.
Honestly it's really good for a Creality option. Mine is also pretty good, although I'm not the biggest fan of the fixed bed. Some have it super leveled, some have it insanely unleveled, other times it's just the gantry that's not perfectly squared, like mine was. I don't think that high spot on the bed is the cause of the weight sensor tho, it's probably just the plastic peg that's too long, mine is at almost 0.00
wtf at 0.00? my best ones are at 0.2 and others around 0.4 while two at 0.6
I hate the trope of “don’t get that printer on a great sale, spend $500” I’ve wanted one for years to use as another tool in my kit but haven’t wanted to break the bank on something I’m only going to use to fabricate clips and the like every once in a while. I finally picked up an ender 3v2 and it’s amazing for the price of $40 I paid new. It can print basically anything any other standard fdm printer can print albeit a bit slower and I think it’s great. This was after I was discouraged by a 3d printing snob and told that it would only be worth the price if I spent hundreds upgrading it. Not everyone who wants a 3d printer wants to get into your hobby, some people are technically adept enough to easily use printers but just want them as a tool to have around. I honestly feel like it pushes people away from the community as a whole when people say that sort of stuff, $40 is a very inexpensive price and although it’s obviously not going to be as nice as a $500 printer, it’s a lot of added capability for the kind of money you don’t even have to think about.
I've been watching your videos for a couple of years now and the Ender-3 v3 se is the first 3d printer that I've owned. The reasons being that it's now cheap enough and a fully usable 3d printer that doesn't require additional modding. Just download or cad an object, slice it and print it. There are very few print failures so it's pretty much a case of load the sdcard and filament, select print and wait until it's finished. So now whether I'm repairing something, trying to mod or improve something, or print hobby bits (rc cars and trucks) I can get on with what I'm doing rather than the hobby being having to mod a 3d printer until it's finally usable.
Sounds like you may have missed the S1/S1 Pro experience which is pretty similar to what I see in the video of the V3 unboxing/setup. S1 was plagued with its own share of issues, though, but it was still worlds better than a regular Ender-3
Nice haircut Angus,
I just ordered 3 a1minis for my classroom. I’m so excited. It really does say a lot about creality that they keep sending you printers to review.
I was gifted and just started using for my first ever machine a V2. I must have got one of the good ones because it's been pretty easy to use so far. My one giant complaint has been loading filament into the drive module. The factory hole past the rollers is maybe 2mm wide and almost impossible to thread into. So I drilled it out to about 4-5mm and now I can swap filament far more easily. I did see your video about the z-axis limit switch being too high, and I made that modification as well. The run-out on the springs is a real problem. Today I'm getting a spring steel print bed to upgrade from the glass. Thanks for the well made and informative videos!
Thank you for your review, as someone who has watched from the sidelines for so long and looking for an entry point. Watching until the end was helpful.
I just received a KE yesterday and wow, this thing rocks. It prints filament that other printers fail on. Process: Grab printer, spend 5 minutes putting it together, power it up, connect it to my WiFi (easy), grab my usual print and the worst filament I have (Stronghero Galaxy Chameleon), load their slicer, slice it as usual with no support. After a single failed print (my fault), it just crushed the first print in 10 hours.
What were the changes you made? I do get some stringing, but it's not terrible (compared to the nightmare of stringing that my Prusa has) and I'd love to get rid of stringing where I can.
I bought one on pre-order. It's my first printer and I love it! The coating on the bed came off but Creality sent me a replacement. I removed the full coating and the glue from the old one and ordered a thin sheet of G10, which I then glued on the spring steel. This way I don't need to use clamps but I get the benefits of G10 print bed. I haven't even used the new build plate they sent me.
I had exactly the same thing happen to me, on the VERY FIRST print. Solved it by putting a glass bed on it. I have now put 4 full spools through it with no issues, I really hate these flexible plates, never worked for me in the past . I had hoped with the auto levelling that this machine would be different, but no. I also have a replacement build sheet from them, but like you it's still in the box....lol
I'm actually going to get this one. I'm a new printer. I started at school with the ender 3. My school owns 3 ender3s and I fixed all for only being a beginner. I'm really excited to start the ender3 v3 se
It's actually much easier to remove the prints by taking the whole print sheet off and flex it back and forth. Taking the print off the PEI coated bed by force will damage it
With pla it isn't too bad but I've seen petg utterly ruin these plates if people don't flex pieces off.
6:04 I broke my bed within two days of having it and had it get a replacement. The bed was too sticky. So much so that I eliminated the skirt since that was just a nightmare to get off.
I love my Ender 3 V2. After initial setup 3 years ago, every print has been perfect and I have printed a lot of stuff on it. Considering the Ender 3 V3 SE at that price point.
They seemed to have listened to feedback as there is now a $16 fulminant cut out sensor add-on you can get.
I'm new to the 3D printing world, but a dinosaur in the manufacturing industry.
I like my Ender 3 S1 Pro. I was easy enough to get started with and advanced enough to make some really good prints. I tend to create more functional models, not that artist models don't have their purpose.
The S1 Pro seems to produce fairly repeatable results. Some of the print in place moving models are a little tight, but I think that could be tuned out with some testing.
The S1 Pro had the biggest bed of an almost fully assembled printer that I could afford at the time.
I do wish I'd had the funds for a multicolor model.
Much improved, but Creality still cant get the firmware parts correct. Should be using 5x5 mesh grid instead of 4x4, no input shaping enabled? Input shaping on marlin works great, ive been using it for months and can crank out 30 min standard settings benchys on an original ender 3 with some upgrades.
Honestly, comparing the ender 3 v2 to my Wanhao Duplicator i3, I've had only 1 real issue with my v2 and that was recent. The main driving gear collate had such a deep groove from the filament that it could no longer push the filament correctly. I didn't expect it to wear out after maybe... 4 spools of PLA? Otherwise, great machine so far.
Also, thank you for making the video about laser cutters a few months back. My parents asked me if I would use a laser cutter or a lathe more and I did discover that laser cutters can act a little like lathes with the right tools. Even though the one I got doesn't have an enclosure, I'm not going to even plug it in until I get one (the enclosure and cutter were outside of their budget). Sucks that even the lowest end fully enclosed laser is still like $1,000 USD. I've been wanting one for years but knew the logistic nightmare while still being safe. I will absolutely be rewatching that video many times while considering what to cut. Thank you ^^.
anyone else catch the typo on the power sticker? damgage @12:52 along with "accord to the sign shows." its the little things.
They've been using the same sticker since the Ender 3, no idea why they haven't updated it yet
I have the ender 3 v2 Neo. I'm a complete beginner and it works really well. Setup was done in like 15 minutes plus the leveling. And it hasn't ever failed on me so far. It's not fast but it does creat clean prints.
I did the dual Z axis drive, Sprite Pro Extruder and Sonic Pad..... Boat benchie in 22mins with amazing quality. Original setting with v2 Neo is 2hrs
The K1 on sale right now for $350 is a worthwhile upgrade, I just got one but returned it because the gantry belts don't line up and cause part warp of about 0.5-1.5%. Which for most all prints doesn't matter and you won't notice, but once you start making precise parts that need to fit perfectly then anywhere near 1% is a deal breaker. I wanted a appliance type printer, I already have 4 other printers that I've designed parts and upgrades myself for them, didn't want to dig into a new project. Hence I returned it
just on time, looking to buy one. I trust makers muse the most when it comes to these reviews
Don't buy from creality bud. You will thank me later.
@@Splarkszter i really want to avoid creality and get a bambu A1, do you think it would be worth it pre-ordering for it? It's pretty hard to get it in my country.
@@Otawakun Well, if you are from a country that is not from the european union or the united states then be careful and get it from a distributor that can secure that you will receive technical help in case something fails.
@@Otawakun and the "don't buy from creality bud" take it more like a "don't buy any printer from creality whose name starts in CR". Creality is only good doing printers related to the Ender 2 and Ender 3.
The K1 is becoming open source and the community is becoming their own technical service, however if you don't trust yoursefl for repair things then don't go for it.
Nice! Saw the previous vid just after I bought mine so I'm happy to see this better news 😂 im a lvl 0 beginner and you're definitely right about me being able to get started quickly, mostly
Nice! Glad it wasn't a bad experience.
@@MakersMuse oh and something about its ridiculous default max acceleration (4000) and about how it supposedly even overrides things that you've manually specified? Which could cause problems? I heard about it in a video somewhere
Cura 5.6.Beta has the profile for the 3 V3 SE, plus the Sonic Pad was just upgraded with printer info.
Just purchased this printer as my first printer. Having decent luck so far. I can say larger less detailed prints have worked great but a few projects that are smaller or that have little more detail don't seem to work the best. Using the provided slicer from creality. Is pursa better/easier to use and have you worked out your setting Profile yet
Any update on the PrusaSlicer profile? I can’t wait to ditch Creality Print, but I’m not skilled enough to build my own profile. Thanks for putting that out there
Thank you so much for taking the time to break down information about this interesting new sector- as an entrepreneur that's just starting out with zero Capital whatsoever, I don't have the luxury of being able to send complicated specs to some factory to extrude the items that I need to start my business idea, which means that I was drawn to 3D printing as a way to sidestep this and keep all manufacturing in-house for my new product.
I just want you to know how much I appreciate you taking the time to share your wisdom and experience on this subject, because you're helping me get this dream off the ground. Best of luck to you
‘Zed’ ! Awesome. Thank you very much for this. Total noob and got this for my daughter on a friend’s recommendation. Your knowledge and explanations are super helpful. I’m looking forward to trying this out.
3 weeks into a v3 SE as my first printer. ABL and auto Z worked well at first but now it never hits the mark. I have to manually level the mesh now which takes sometimes over a dozen test prints. The manually gathered values are only useful for a few prints before I have to do another run and adjust again. Really wish I held out another week and just grabbed an A1.
Your succinct review is just what I needed to know about the Ender-3 V3 SE. Thanks!
Creality does need to cull herd, their run out sensor is so simple it should be on every machine. Nice to see entry level getting some love though
Excelent video! Thank you and congratulations! The information and editing are impeccable
Thank you for this video. The information you provided was great. Hoping to soon purchase a 3d printer and videos like this help to decide what's out there and the quality of the product. Right now it's just a dream to own one but when I eventually can ill be ready to make good choices at reasonable prices for a beginner. Again thank you.
Have non-creality slicers incorporated profiles that allow printing with this printer in the last 7 months?
You should do a top printers of 2023 or top printers for beginners video cause I am looking into getting a new one but damn are some of the things more confusing than they were
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Ben de kararsızım. Bambu lab a1 mini or ender3v3 se?
I got an ender 3 v2 neo about a year ago at the last year's black Friday and it's never given me any problems, in fact it's been very reliable and prints great, now that I know 3d printing is definitely for me, my next printer will be a bamboo labs one for sure. One ender 3 is enough, or maybe I'll sell it to get the bamboo
I have bought one of these as my first 3D printer. Is well worth the price. I do have several nits. Like you the bed was too sticky and I changed it. Also agree the left corner on was high until I fixed and the hood is BIG. The only real bug is with the auto bed level. The auto z-offset tends to be a bit to high. Causing the 2nd layer sometimes dragging on the first. Lowering a bit fixes that problem. BTW I get OK quality w/ 170 mm/sec on TLA but usually max at 150-130.
Why do people make such a big deal about bed leveling!?! I’s really not that hard to learn how to level the bed and set the correct offset from the nozzle. I level my bed on the fly as the printer is printing the brim / skirt. As others have said, this printer is cool but no longer seems as moddable as the earlier versions of the Ender 3.
because it's quick and easy
Although that comes at a price of effectiveness. I really don't think compensating for an unleveled bed in software is comparable to not having it unleveled at all or being able to level it in hardware.
The auto Z offset is pretty cool however and worked wonderfully for me.
@@zUltra3D yea in my opinion, you should learn the basic mechanics of the machine before just wanting to print a bunch of parts. Most i3 style machines that tout having ABL are just complicating the mechanism and add another level of complexity to an entry level user that would have a hard time troubleshooting if it were to malfunction or not work correctly. The only time I’d say ABL is necessary is for larger machines with a large build plate that would make manual leveling very time consuming or difficult because there is a lot more room for variation in the middle of a large plate, far away from the adjustment knobs.
It’s kind of like wanting to learn to drive a car, but relying on a new cars self driving technology to really do the work for you instead of actually learning how to drive yourself.
@@Addimotive I know, I don't like it either, especially when you can't do much of anything about it considering that it is now not even adjustable
I hate the default Creality buildplates. Never had good experience with them. Removing small parts is almost impossible, and with large parts the bed top surface can actually rip when removing prints. Instantly replace it with PEI.
I had an ender v2 neo with the sprite SE on it with a sonic pad and LOVE IT. it is fast af and reliable af for PETG and PLA. I also have a Tempered glass bed but might move to G10 for speed.
Great printer - another issue that I have is the cable out the back of the bed - for a compact printer, that thing sticks out about 3 miles. Love the printer though.
Love your videos! You've helped me a lot over the years! Can you do an updated video on making Lithophanes with the newer machines? Like a Bambu X1C? I got them down pretty good with my old creality printers, but I've sold those now...
Also, Makers Muse and CNC Kitchen are about the only TH-cam makers I trust anymore.
This printer is around £150 in the UK right now, for £20 more, you can get the A1 Mini. While the A1 mini has a smaller print bed, if you can use that then the mini will print 9/10 prints no problem, the Ender, lucky if you get 4/10. I like the Ender 3 V3 SE when I got it, it just worked, but then the auto bed levelling just stopped working, which meant the auto Z Level stopped working and I had to keep setting these up manually. Meanwhile, the A1 mini just worked, all the time. I had 4 Ender printers (2 x Ender 3 neo, 1 x Ender 3 v2 neo and the Ender 3 v3 SE with the sprite hot end) and I have now sold them all. Moved over to 1 A1 and 2 A1 minis, now all my prints just work.
There's no way to simply tie two spools together, so when one spool is empty, the next spool sill continue? (Like splice the start of one spool to the end of the first mostly empty spool, so when the first spool runs out, the new spool will just continue without any delay or without needing a cut-off switch when the spool runs out.)
So great to see some good boardgames on your shelf ;-)
Good review 🙂
Great video! I am still using one of the very first Ender 3s that has never been upgraded, still works. Just can’t afford a newer printer thanks for the opinion though 😊
Interesting review. I've had my v3SE since October and for the most part, it has been fine. I'll address the big problem I had in a moment. As far as adhesion to the print bed goes, I haven't noticed the problems you had, in fact, the out of the box print bed works fine for me at 60C. What I ALWAYS do between prints though, is to clean the surface with 70% IPA using a box store type micro-fiber rag. Mine print bed still looks brand new. I also got one of the new PEI "gold" print beds, and had a reverse issue; I was having not enough sticking, so for now, I changed back to the original. Ok, now for the problem. When I finally got the printer set up, I printed the heck out of it for the first week. If there was going to be manufacturing issues, I wanted to find the fast. I am using Creality Hyper PLA for most prints, and used Creality Slicer. Like you, i got a profile for Prusa Slicer and had issues, so I switched back. My issue was a problem with the hot end servo control. Sometimes it would be fine, keeping the temp within +/- 1C of target, but other times the temp would bounce around, which finally would cause the firmware to throw a "nozzle temp too low" error along with a very annoying sound which could only be turned off by powering it off. This would happen now and then and I found that by changing the fill pattern from grid to honeycomb changed "something" enough to make the problem go away. But eventually, the error would happened when just trying to retract filament. After a few round with Creality Cust Service, they finally decided to send me a new hot end (i think). I'm still waiting on it. I'm not sure if it will come with instructions, so we'll have to wait and see.
overall, (this is my first 3D printer), I'm happen with how it prints.
I had the same issue with the "nozzle temp too low" and I found a way to fix it. You have to tighten the nut that holds the thermocouple to the nozzle. Just remove the rubber cover and use an Allen wrench from the bottom
i will check that. Creality sent me a new hot end, but I haven't installed it yet. I'll try your idea. From the symptoms I figured the issue had something to do with the feedback loop of the heating cycle. I figured it was a damaged thermocouple but if tightening it fixes things, i am good with that!
@alankilgore1132 I noticed that I kept having to tighten it every few days, so I decided to remove the thermistor to see what was going on. When I removed the thermistor, a bunch of white stuff fell out so I cleaned everything and reassembled it. Haven't had a problem since so you may want to check that.
@@ianb119 Not sure how to remove the thermister since it appears to be press fit or glued into the mounting hole. So, I will have to figure ou how to replace the hot end. Is the hot end on the v3 SE the same as any of the other Ender printers? I haven't found a video of how to remove this specific hot end, but since the printer is new, that isn't surprising.
At $199 it's $50 cheaper than my E3v2 was 4 or 5 years ago. I don't see where you could go wrong.
I would imagine a filament run out sensor could be added for a few doll hairs, but I've never needed one. I've nodded my E3v2 quite a bit and that's an option I've never seen a need for.
It would be great if you could review the KE, it looks really good, but we need to know more about
I have had mine a few days and am loving it! It’s my first printer and I can set it and go do a couple things and feel like Itl do it’s job
Hey Angus, Awesome video & good to see this inexpensive legend gettting some of the love it deserves.
I'm a teaching assistant in the technology faculty of a school & we acutally bought 3 of these machines very shortly after they launched in an attempt to take the load of lower priority prints off of our farm of Prusa I3's.
We're running them exculsivley on Esun PLA+ to keep things simple and mostly using them for less important jobs and those from younger students. We've found them to be really easy to setup and run and havn't had any major issues yet, which I can't even say about the prusa MK4's. For those who are on tight budgets or just looking for a lot of output at minimal cost, I'd struggle to reccomend anything else at this point.
One thing I'd reccomend to you is to make a prusaslicer printer profile based off of the Ender 3 S1 profile that is included in prusaslicer, the two printers are very similar in build and even use the same exruder. You'll end up with a stack of ready to use print profiles for a range of layer heights that produce excellent results and require basically no tuning - it's been working really well for us so far - hope that helps.
Also, I think that there we're some other creality printers that launched recently that use the same shape of spring steel sheet with a PEI coating (might have been the K1?), those would probably make for a great drop-in upgrade over the standard sheet.
I just bought a prusa I3 mk2 and I am SO HAPPY I DID. I had an ender 3 pro and I HATE IT. seems like i had to do >1hr of maintenance for every hour of printing.
Yeah idk why people love the ender 3 so much. I haven't even finished building mine and am already thinking about getting an A1 Mini lol
I got the KE, still stock. Works fine and got succesfull prints everytime. I tried priting at 500mm/s but had way too much gosthing. 300mm/s gets me perfect prints
Make sure when you set up that you tighten ALL the screws. Mine set up well enough, but all my gantry screws were a little loose, and I had to level the gantry to get rid of low spots on the print bed.
I got a KE instead of an SE a bit ago, and man not a single bit of stringing with PLA at high speeds. Had to increase the retraction to 1mm for PETG to remove stringing but still. Very cool printers
This is just me personally, but I love all my Creality printers. I can't afford most other ones and I've never an issue I couldn't iron out myself eventually with either one. To each their own, but I'm kind of a Creality fan
Creality did up their game a bit. (and bonus style points for the Hextraction tiles.)
I spotted those too! Really need to start putting together a set of my own :)
We love a Zack Freedman fan.
Tbh in my opinion there are only 2 ways to get into 3d printing: buy the cheapest used ender 3 (just to fiddle around, learn and maybe break something without having to worry too much) in your location or buy the Bambu Lab A1
Another great video....lots of very useful ingo!!!
Getting one for my first 3D printer, I've been very happy. I don't want to tinker with it but actually get usable prints and with PLA I can't complain. For the price, it's a been a great way to get into printing.
did you ever figure out the prusaslicer profile?
I have one of these. The automatic levelling and the magnetic flexible surface mean it is genuinely plug and play. Once I had the right temperature for my PLA (sunlu meta, seems to work at 185'c perfectly on my printer) I just design stuff and print it. Usually with no - or minimal - supports, a skirt, and a slightly increased retraction to minimise stringing. BUT THAT'S IT. No glue on the print surface, no adhesion problems, no levelling issues. It is DEAD SIMPLE to change filament and I even got octoprint working with it on a Raspberry Pi ZeroW just by running through a couple of online tutorials. Alongside Cura the whole setup is no longer a hobby setup that needs tinkering with, it is simply a tool for making stuff. Over a year after buying my Ender 3 v3 SE I still occasionally look at it and marvel at the tiny price for all that functionality and polish. If you are considering one, BUY IT.
I was thinking about picking up one of the Ender 3 V3 KE printers till you reminded me that the bambu labs one exists. I'm in the market for my 5th printer, might as well swap around brands again.
Good to see some change. I’m impressed with the offset force sensor. I must admit to think about changing out my work horse and am tossing up with a k1 or maybe a bamboo lab but the extra cost of the bamboo lab seems hard to justify.
Its interesting to note the discussions around troubleshooting and fine-tuning for the Ender-3 V3 SE. Users experiences add depth to the understanding of this printer.
Dumb question from someone looking into 3DP.... Why do so many of these printers move the bed? Doesn't moving all that mass (even empty, more as it fills up) seem inefficient? Shouldn't you just move the small mass of the print head and only move the bed up and down slowly? Am I missing something? I feel like I am, cause almost all the printers I see move the bed forward and back.
Welcome to CoreXY, these are bed slingers
You're a synth guy!! Nice ... I just picked up DM12D, my first analog synth it was on resale for a price too hard to pass up even rhough i wanted rhe Hydrasynth Explorer ...looking at spending way too much money on lathe, mill and 3d printer. What 3 3d printers ahould I be looking at as a newb?
2:37 I see that the "feedback" about the CR-6's lack of strain relief got heard somewhere.
I just got a neo max that I'm very happy with. I've done things to it that should've broken it but didn't and it prints great!
Linear rods and two z-axis screws alone is a huge upgrade over the wonky rollers and sagging gantry.
How do you feel as this for a first 3d printer? I’ve never had one before and keep coming back to this one. Thanks for a great video
The first time I ever printed on my Ender 3 the part stuck to the bed so well that part of it's still there 6 months later. The purple washable glue sticks are a must-have. I'm sure there are others that work well too, but these are guaranteed to work... so I recommend trying these first and then buy other products to try in between when you're not printing anything important.
So i got one of these for myself for Christmas, and i was also incredibly confused looking at all the different models of ender 3. But i ginally got this, and once id worked out its setup quirks properly, its worked fine for me
It actually does have filament detection capabilities but you have to open up the bottom plate and you have to connect it to the main board, but luckily the tools that they give you are more than capable of doing that!
Where do I buy the filament detector?
I bought this printer as my first 3D printer, and while it seems to be very competitive at its price point, I think I should've spent a bit more e.g. for the A1 mini. I'm sure I'll still get plenty of use out of it though (after replacing the print bed with something else)
I bought it too as my first printer. Try Garolyte / G10 print bed. It's doing amazing for me.
If you're spending money on a new build surface anyway, I strongly recommend shelling out for a Wham Bam PEI plate. I upgraded from the OEM Creality plate on my S1 Pro and it's in a completely different league. I've cleaned the plate maybe twice in the last 6 months and PLA adhesion/release is perfect every time.
I just bought the V3 SE too. I got an older Creality PEI Plate for $8.99 on amazon. Really is a fantastic upgrade.
Bunun yerine bambulab a1 miniyi önerir misin? Sence hangisi daha iyi?
i have the v2, just helped my brother set up his v3 se, he has minimal computer knowledge, and he's picked up on it so quick, amazing for beginners imo
My quick review as someone who bought it. (he was pretty spot on)
1. the bed it comes with is eh, I replaced it with a glass bed after a week because prints were sticking too well
2. the assemble was amazing
3. The auto z-offset doesnt work for me. its a little too close or too far and I end up adjusting it anyways
4. probably the best beginer printer
5. consistent
6. careful with the SD card, mine doesn't go in all the way now and stops mid print at times.
Always happy to watch Angus ❤❤❤