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PIRACER VELOCIRAPTOR
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2009
XYZ cube after 12 hours drying
Since last video the filament has been in the drier @ roughly 70C.
This is not a quality type print, but a quick print to show how ready the filament is.
Bumat ABS, 275C print temp, 0.010 PA, 0.02 smooth time.
This is not a quality type print, but a quick print to show how ready the filament is.
Bumat ABS, 275C print temp, 0.010 PA, 0.02 smooth time.
มุมมอง: 52
วีดีโอ
XYZ Cube Wet filament test
มุมมอง 424 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา
I always dry my filament. Wanted to do a quick test print to see what a new roll is like. See ya in 24 hours.
Ducting practice.. I have had enough for now!
มุมมอง 88314 วันที่ผ่านมา
I am not able to get 3 valve, 3 orifice to work substantially better than 2 valve, 2 nozzle orifice. There is not enough air available with the orifice size I am currently using with 2 valve and reduced to an overall volume of 2 valve OG duct. Getting better results now with the 2 valve , 3 nozzle orifice. Months and months back I made a 3 valve, 3 nozzle orifice duct that was centered around t...
2 Valve vs 3
มุมมอง 58421 วันที่ผ่านมา
Tough to make this! Pure misery!! Trying to get some air from behind without losing too much on the front side. I just can't seem to do it. This one is working OK, but it's not right. Starting a different one with 2 valves, 3 orifices.
1950 Chicago Coin Bowling Classic
มุมมอง 272หลายเดือนก่อน
White is such a @$#@#% to print. This was a fresh roll of ASA. 1st 5 prints had layer adhesion issues @ 275C print temp and very bad Z banding. If I had not just printed the pins in ABS to tweak, it would have made me look into my printer mechanics. Maybe the 1st so many feet of filament was wet? Seems like it.. After about 5-10 prints the Z banding went away and printed these at 265C, 30% fan,...
Slicer got me good.
มุมมอง 603หลายเดือนก่อน
This sucker got me good.. I have been having some issues with this model.. well lots of models. I had a setting in SS that caused some rips in the filament. Min convex angle and min concave angle. They were 160° from the Ellis profile and I have been using it for over a year now. Turned that off and the rips are gone. This was a commanded 700mms, ABS @, 275C .2 layer height, .7 min layer time, ...
Riddle me this
มุมมอง 241หลายเดือนก่อน
ABS, 275C base section, 255 below the hat, 500/30k/30SCV/.01PA/0.12 layer height/14 min/ Filament is dry.. does it fast, slow, medium. Always a riddle with these things. UPDATE: Printed 3 of these with 0.0PA, 0.01 PA, 0.022 PA. 0.0 had the most scars, .022 had many also, .01 light scarring, but still scars on the hat. Sliced again in Cura(using Super slicer most of the time), same settings, sam...
Chubby Croc
มุมมอง 848หลายเดือนก่อน
2nd attempt at a little faster. 600mms, 50K acceleration, 100SCV, ABS, .25LH.
ChubbyCroc
มุมมอง 6302 หลายเดือนก่อน
There was a challenge to print this so I thought I would print to see what it was all about. .25 Layer height, ABS, 10% infill, 2 walls. 600mms commanded, 60K acceleration, 60SCV all but external, 50SCV external @ 40K acceleration. 300x300x400 print volume, LDO 2504 steppers, 5160 48V drivers for X,X1, Y, Y1, E, and 2209 24V drivers for belted 4:1 Z. Goliath hotend, standard nozzle, VZHextrudor...
Vase Rose test after new gantry blocks
มุมมอง 6252 หลายเดือนก่อน
Quick test to see how clean the lines are. Vase mode rose. ABS, 0.5 line width, .25 Layer height, ~60mms3 flow, 550mms, 30K acceleration, 30SCV, 90% cooling with WS7040 blower. This is a test of the motion system with the new gantry blocks with tensioners built in. It's basically a rotating drum, like the guitar's tuners, on the headstock. These enable higher tension (30lbs ) using GT3 belts be...
Ping me
มุมมอง 2.2K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
For some this is hard to do. Maybe it's the phone audio quality or the app setup? Tune your belts to the right force and may the force be with you! Looking for 29LBS tension, GT3 belts, ~114hz calculator.academy/belt-tension-frequency-calculator/ GT2 6mm belt use .0083 for mass, GT2 9mm belt use .0132 GT3 9mm use .01485 Belt tension in LBS is based on double shear or not and position of the mot...
Marble divider Kinetic Kid
มุมมอง 1.3K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
Gantry back together after new carriage blocks. Need to print this test piece, Marble divider, for a ScrollMaster. He lives.. he is everywhere.
Pulley run-out Gates vs Chinesium
มุมมอง 2982 หลายเดือนก่อน
Easy to just show with this 1" travel indicator. Test indicator is more accurate, but you get the idea! Not a standard way to test. Just showing how crappy those cheap pulleys are! I did a proper test with a test indicator. The gates was .0015". That Chinese pulley was .0085". It was one of the better ones I had.. tossed a few in the bin and drilled some out for other projects. Shafts were test...
is that a tig ceramic cup over the hot end.
Yes, it is.
not a hybrid.
It does have some of the original Merc parts and others were modified with the same bearing spacing. Here nor there.. that system is long gone from my machine now.
@@MrRocksalt no worries. I was trying to find a good hybrid corexy model and was glad to find yours, but then it wasn't hybrid at all. i'll keep looking...tx
这台机器是开源的吗
why are the ducts shaped like that with the 3 big open holes or you are calling them valves ? how do they work ?
A traditional 'valve', like in a motorcycle engine,is placed in that hole. The air rolls over the lip of the valve and it makes an air curtain. That air curtain travels across the plate no matter where the toolhead is. so you get dedicated nozzle cooling and some plate cooling at the same time. When the toolhead moves, that valve air is still hitting the part.
when you have warping issues so what you do is just print faster then it can warp!
Anti-Warp drive is installed. *patent pending
Great info mate. Is there a video on the valves and their use never seen them beforneon other ducts. Cheers!
No, not really. Something I have been at for the last year or so trying to improve on.
There are some other videos I made with different style ducts, fan's and my explanations in the videos for each. I started with octoduct and it brought me into designing the valve duct.
why do the ducts have those huge holes at the front ?
Air distribution :)
I just love that you don't accept what has been done and try out your own ideas and keep improving upon what is known
At times for nothing! Seems like 1 win, 10 losses!
I bet the print lines are soooo clean on this printer
WAW! impressive job! thanks for sharing your experience and tests
Great design! I’m really impressed with the updates !
What do you use to lubricate the rails? I have a vzbot that I built with custom dimensions and just installed the 516-0 with 48v, was wondering what your steps are to push higher speeds and accels
Chevron Black pearl SRI. Temp, fan, tuning flow, and a good rigid X beam for corexy.
cpap fan?
Yes, it is!
of course lmao
Just over twice as fast as my printer 😮
X gantry is the only way to go! Only way to reduce the rocking inaccuracy of coreXY.
You need to put Volume warning! Where is the FAn itself?
hey.... i think that bed plate is hot!
I will say... I pulled my .5mm smooth PEI/other side textured PEI off because the glue is lifting. Put a spare plate that is thin PEI on one side and spring steel on the other. This plate is HAH when taking off!! The other one is manageable. Seems the thinner is better for heat!
Better print quality than my k1 max.
TIG ceramic nozzle???
The tig cups are wild, is that just to insulate the hot end from part cooling? What hot end is this?
3 things.. the extra weight lowers the center of mass. The cup insulates the hotend and it also heats the air off the duct so there is less delta/worse cooling to ensure better layer bonding. The latter, just a guess.. Still testing.
0.01 PA is way too low for 0.12 layer height. It should probably be around double what you use for 0.2-0.25 lh
I made 3 prints. 0.0, 0.01, 0.022. 0 was the worst, .022 was the second worst, and .01 was the best. Corners are sharp at 0.01. At -0.022 the corners look like over heating or some other. 0.018-0.022 was the sweet spot and now is .007-.010.
I had this recently on Goliath +Micro Sherpa + Breakneck toolhead. It occurred near the seam, so I assumed it was loosing material by oozing over the travel move. I couldn't eliminate it entirely, but increasing the PA smooth time from 0.02 to 0.03 helped a bit.
maybe retraction compensation to fill the seam better?
THose places have no retraction. Only at layer change. That model printed flat, so those lines on the hat are on plane with the bed.
Love the crossed gantry. You are brave to put your hand in there😅
yea its really fast but to be honest not the cleanest work.
That is a beautiful machine!!! I'd like to know a little more about what you got going on in that thing lol
I don't think I can beat this time 😵 Awesome printer.
this thing is legitimately impressive despite looking cobbled together from spare parts, I love it.
Unfortunately, this printer was not made at one time. It is a test machine to see what works and what does not. I have a new build planned from the mods I have done to this printer. Instead of making new all the time, I re-iterate and compare. Hopefully, the lessons learned will contribute to a better printer. Thanks for your humbling words.
@@MrRocksalt hi, do you have a github or discord to follow and learn how to build a machine like that? Thank you and great work :)
Took you long enough! 😆😎
I talked to Scottie in the engine room and he gave it all he could!
Wooo rocksalt's got his croc out!
is that a tig welding cup hotend sleeve
is that a galaxy s4? that's a throwback
Hey! It's good as a stopwatch! :)
nice :D what build plate is this? can you also tell us about your hardware?
This is PEI on spring steel, held on with a magnet sheet. Description updated with machine specs.
thanks and awesome build.@@MrRocksalt
:-D The printer was taking it personal hitting you
Is it stable under loads
Tension has moved twice, but these are new belts and they need some running in. Observing to see if any change.
HOT! lmao
The Croc looks really good for just over 7 Minutes, Well Done!
I am beyond amazed by how chunks dont just go flying off the build plate from sonic the endhog flying around like that
I'd love to see the detail on the tensioners
There is a .jpg in the beginning of the video/thumbnail. Pretty straightforward design, but hard to make with bought parts. Had to turn one part on a lathe to make it.
This thing is sick, I do wonder how your xy belt clamps/tensioners hold. Neat stuff 👍!
how does your belt tensioner work?
Like a guitar!
@@MrRocksalt cool! i am also working on my own cross gantry design, any tips on how to keep all the rails square?
Others play bass He play 3D printer
How do you calculate hz based on tension ? Tnx
Description changed with links to calculator
@@MrRocksalt thank you very much as usual curious about other updates on Facebook, I was happy to follow your post for the belt tensioner
Very nice work !
pretty cool m8
It's a speed monster,very very good
Why do I keep seeing it recommended to be like 53.494165??
Have you got any more details on this fan that your willing to share, I'm definitely intrested in this. Sounds quieter and is more powerful.
Not yet. The issue is the lowest speed is not low enough. Motor needs to be hall sensor or use lower supply voltage. I have been busy with other tasks that I have not gotten back to it.
@@MrRocksalt thanks, that's a shame hope you'll have time soon. Do you think that's because of the driver not being capable or the motor not having a low start up value?
@@benclimo461 Low speed cogging is what happens when there is no feedback on rotor position. The phase angle is not optimal for torque at zero speed. So the motor needs to spin a bit to get past that. With hall sensor motor it can be spun at very low RPM. It's possible with lower supply voltage the min speed can be reduced, but less top speed. Top speed is not that much of issue as the PQ curve will drop before 100% speed. I will get back to it once I get some other things aligned.
Are those little black cone things in the bottom of the fan ducts acting of a kind of diffuser to spread air across the print where the nozzle is not currently at? I need to redesign mine to cover more surface area because I get curling on the tip of the boat at the beginning of the print. I think my nozzles are pointing too close at the nozzle so when it prints other parts of the boat, its not cooling that small point and the filament curls up.
Here is one video, there are others explaining the function. th-cam.com/video/D8_9uj437Jk/w-d-xo.html