Calidragon 150%
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2024
- 700mms commanded, 40SCV, 30K acceleration.
I wanted to put a better insulator on the hotend vs the ceramic. I didn't weigh it, but I think the glass setup is better. I was able to TIG braze the brass threaded portion of the TIG setup to the hot end. Prior I had it safety wired on. This is a bit more permanent solution. This way I can thread on the ceramic cup or use orings on the glass cup. *don't try this at home unless you are a good welder! The glass insulates the hotend to some degree(haha), and the fan does not affect the nozzle so much. Downside is the orings will decompose around 300C and release bad stuff in the air. Working on a better solution once my brain catches up and thinks of something.
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this is how close we are to the replicator from star trek 🤏
the fastest printer i have seen with good quality prints
Wow! That's indeed the fastest I've seen so far! Thanks for sharing 😁
TIG welder gas shielding cup made of borosilicate glass. I need to find a better way to attach it due to the oring composition. Only good to about 290C.
I was thinking maybe if we aimed the parts cooling straight down in a circle around the nozzle, we wouldn't have so much thermal interference.
The cooling should be trailing the nozzle, not hitting it, yet all fanducts I've printed will blow a lot of air straight at the nozzle.
I can't see any aux fans like in the vzbot or the bambu printers, are they hidden or did you find them less useful ?
@@ludovicurbain4048 Some info.. CPAP, on my machine flows 115 gallons a minute at 100%. Changing the direction it blows will still end up deflecting up at the nozzle. The angle of the air also matters for cooling. More left to right vs up and down. :(
@@MrRocksalt That seems like so much air that I doubt it's being used properly at all. Maybe the real solution is to dial back part cooling a whole lot, have massive chamber air flow (like auxiliaries, just even more) and stick to reasonable layer times, which means either printing bigger things, more things or just waiting in-between layers. I'm personally having a lot of trouble with the huge variance in layer time which causes major differences in passive cooling.
In a way, these speed prints are not really realistic and demand so much localized parts cooling to compensate the unrealistic 1/100th of the bed print size, which in the end will not translate to actual printing performance, as a full plate will then receive this massive localized parts cooling plus a ton of passive cooling, ended up overcooled.
What's tricky with all that is that we're always trying to tune / tweak and bench with really tiny prints when in the end, the optimal usage of a 3D printer would be close to full bed every print.
@@ludovicurbain4048 --Propose a test. Not everyone prints full plates. Propose a test.-- The print was real when it came off the plate and I touched it. So the issue is; the test scenario does not fit 'your' ideal criteria? These vidz are just me playing around and not used as my quality print settings. I push to see what happens and the printer pushes back. I just try to push back harder than the printer does. Propose a test... It's the only way to overcome specific issues.
Why not use fiberglass sleeve insulation
Hey! That's awesome! I just messaged the modeller of the CaliDragon - he is a friend, here from Spain. He will have fun seeing this video! Oh, I have a question about your Z-Axis... It looks like a flat, smooth, metal belt pulling up the bed... Did you make a video about it? I want to know more about it! EDIT: oh, I saw you use 3 normal GT2 belts to actually raise the bed. It still puzzles me what's that metal strip in the back...
It's a counter weight/window spring so the bed does not drop during power down and the belts are off loaded from the weight.
Haha what did you do to your Goliath this time ?
And is that a new Valvnator ? I can never tell
Would you consider doing a video on the process of designing your ducts? I've done some in fusion 360 but getting the curves accross multiple planes stumps me.
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Is that transparent tube thingy meant as some sort of thermal isolation from the surrounding blowers ?
Looks like a pyrex gas cup, those are meant for TIG welding torches.
It's an interestin solution, it can take a lot more heat than silicone!
Are those MGN12?
How do you tension your belts?
thanks!
Calculate the tension needed, convert to HZ, pluck belt to desired HZ and done.
pyrex glass?
11:14 is that a spring to counter weight bed?
Yes, it is a constant force window spring to counterweight the rear Z system. There are some other videos on that build.