Most underrated printer and designer on TH-cam. Nobody has a machine like this that combines the quality with the speed... trust me I look around a lot.
@@MrRocksalt I have yet to come across one here! It prints faster than a heavily modified Voron 0 and Annex K3. VzBot and modded RatRig can maybe keep up with your printer... maybe. I haven't seen any print quality samples from either with similar bonkers settings like 60k accel.
Gosh I am so proud at how far 3d printers have come. I remember watching the first reprap machines on youtube in the early 10s. Some of the naive hopes of dreamers past are coming true. There was a time when such speed and quality were impossible in the eyes of "experts". Thank you for the great work!
I recently saw a pic on facebook of two cubes. One was complete trash and the other 99% perfect. The caption for the 1st pic read; Look what I did on my 1st 3d printer! A smiley face next to it. The next pic's caption said; WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH MY PRINTER, with a frown face. The more you look, the more you see.. like getting your car painted and looking from 2 inches away. After awhile you look from 6ft to make that 2" look better. I am the second guy, but still looking close. What this means is.. I am never happy with the results because this hobby cannot be perfect!
Are those little black cone things in the bottom of the fan ducts acting of a kind of diffuser to spread air across the print where the nozzle is not currently at? I need to redesign mine to cover more surface area because I get curling on the tip of the boat at the beginning of the print. I think my nozzles are pointing too close at the nozzle so when it prints other parts of the boat, its not cooling that small point and the filament curls up.
i had that problem when i tried doing part cooling with compressed air. Part just flew straight off the plate as soon as the air had something to grab. 5 bar through a 2mm ID tube was about equal to 3x aliexpress 5015s in flow from what i remember. it worked perfectly after i changed the Y splits in the ducts to T ones and made the turns sharper to lose pressure alongside making the path wider.
what is the rattly noise that starts at 0:23? It's obviously not the machine itself making that noise, and it doesn't start until after the print has started. Is that the fan?
If the too big of a pressure is a problem, maybe you can dilude it by using a smaller diameter hose ? I think the smaller the hose, the better input shaper results ?
I've never understood the airflow of these ducts. Sure, the air flows from two vents, but why is making the flow of each of them in the middle make sense? Why is that optimal? The air has to go somewhere, and for optimum flow, why is making two air flows head on crash like this, The best? Also, given the description of air knocking the part of the build plate, would not a less obtrusive air flow path, allow for the same cooling, but assert less of a force on the part? Has anyone tried a push-pull design? with like one fan blowing on the part, and another one sucking that air? Would probably make a ton of sense for directional airflow, and done right, it can be insanely targeted as well. Given the speed of this thing, the air is about as cold on both ends for a push pull. But that would be a completely different design. I just haven't understood the reasoning for the current designs, as no body actually gives any. Like, not giving any reasoning for the design choices of the air flow. It is all about pushing the air to somewhere, but no reasoning as to what happens to that flow beyond that. Like where the air actually goes. Like in this duct. The air gets to the center, and then magically disappears. Usually with designs like this, the argument would be that the confronting pressure leads the air to the sides, which in my mind, means that not too much of it actually reach the center. If it did, how does that work? The only argument for this, would be that air actually do not reach the center. The center should be relatively calm. While everything of center, would be a storm. But that is simply not what the crowd is arguing. I am just not getting this. I don't remember if this was you, but someone made a 3-way duct. It blew from the sides and the back. It did not work. Where were the air flow supposed to go? Anyway. Love the use of them rails for the cross gantry. Loved to see this work out.
The air out of the valves pushes air 360°, or is intended. This is supplemental air to different areas of the print when the toolhead is not over the print. The valve air is like an air curtain, in the shape of an umbrella and can be felt 150mm from the toolhead. How it exactly works from a visual perspective, I am not sure. But it works better than any 2 nozzle duct I have tried or made. 2 nozzle ducts are localized to the nozzle. When the toolhead moves over to another coordinate, that plastic is sitting there with no cooling. With the valves, the model get's air when the toolhead is in the vicinity. If I close the valves for this particular model, and others, it will melt at that low layer time. With regard to 3 valve, if that's what you saw, the rear middle is to cover air behind the nozzle, at the model. Sometimes you can see prints with more cooling favored to one side. Good cooling in one area and not enough on another. The division of the air to the rear is difficult and upsets the flow path. I can't seem to get the design right. The air has mass, and coming from the rear wants to push forward. This is why most ducts will have air leading to the front of the machine. As a baseball is thrown, it wants to stay on a straight path. I know you want to dissect it to try and understand. Did you try it empirically and compare to your RATRIG or VZBOT (I can't remember which printer you have, but your name looks familiar)?
I didn't explain well that I meant by "knocking the part of the plate". The air is not so much pressure that the part comes off from force. It has so much air, 4 layers up when I turn cooling on, the temperature delta against the part causes it to rapidly deform/shrink the plastic on a speed boat. This in turn warps the part and it's lost its surface tension to the plate. I don't have this issue with CPAP blower as the pressure is much lower(100K RPM fan is making the same pressure out the duct at 40% vs 100% of Cpap. I had printed some benchy in 4.5 minutes with this blower and cooling is not an issue with this blower. It can probably print one in 3.5 with exceptional cooling. I didn't try 3.5 because my machine cannot print at those speeds well, with any sensibility of quality.
@@MrRocksalt Thanks. How this duct is designed was lost on me. I did not realize the function of the valves. I have actually been warned about the general cooling you provide, for the very same reason casing your warping issues. To me, this appears to be a balancing act, and there is two different cooling tasks at hand. One is the filament coming out of the extruder the second is the more general cooling. Since having both improves your results, well, than it does improve your results. It also sounds like you struggle with too much cooling, and thus end up reducing the general cooling, and thus reducing the cooling at the nozzle? If these were independent, it sounds like you would crank the nozzle cooling up? I am sort of lost on how you want to improve this otherwise? If I got this right, aren't you describing the general cooling as being too effective if cranked further? I also find it interesting that you cool too effectively in general at these speeds. No wonder then, that people struggle at the snail speeds we have been at for ages, if they apply areal cooling like yours. Anyways. Tanks for answering. This was really worth my time. Really appreciate it. As for what I was talking about, you got two flows colliding at the nozzle. I was just talking about them flows. I still do not get the physics on how and why this is supposed to be so great. I simply do not get the flow argument. Just curious, have you tried cooling without directed flow at the nozzle? Like just with valves? My point is, that if you cannot push the flow any higher, due to warping, what sort of cooling effect does this have? And what happens if you dial down the speed to something more normal. Do you need to dial down the cooling?
@@FrodeBergetonNilsen OK, let me try and sort your comments. Valves alone will NOT cool properly. They are supplemental and offer only a small volume of air. I have made some ducts with only valve cooling and it was a failure. When the nozzle was over the part, melts. For the 2 nozzle's aiming at one another, they are not. They have a downward angle of 40+° and form a point under the nozzle. You could say they collide at that point, but the work is done at that point. In the video I mention the print coming off the plate. This is from rapid cooling and the part warping off the plate. This is a new blower I am trying to use. It has 2x the pressure of CPAP out the same duct. So the settings for this fan speed is different. Look at some of my other videos when I use CPAP. Layer time settings are sub 1S and it cools just fine and if I fill the parts with water they hold. I have a light bulb print I did in some videos back that I filled with water. It's still full today from that time. Also, for this benchy, the pump is outside the chamber. So the air is too cold for ABS and partially why it's rate of cooling is bad for this particular filament. If this was PLA it would work great. But I don't print PLA much as it's not worth my time to use it. But I will make another video with benchy, PLA, and see what the min time is I can get with this fan. I will be able to really crank it up and not affect the part.
I think the key with cooling is to find a speed that works with X cooling. Meaning, to the point where the filament is almost melted/edge of failure from too little cooling. Then either speed up the cooling or slow down the print. If you are after specs on material strength, for a particular application, then print at the recommended temp, speed, and fill the enclosure with Nitrogen, test the results, and move on. But I am printing functional prints, models, ETC, just goofing around.
No! I gutted the metal holder for the cup and affixed it so the cup threads on. The Kapton on top is just to seal the hole/edge of the cup from the sock.
No, there is nothing taken from Annex on this design. Came from some experience in mechanics and what I thought was a good way. Still similar in some ways as there are not many different ways to do it.
@@cristianboivin5832 I do not recommend the 100K blower. If you want more, get the WS9290 blower. The 100K fan can be bought on amazon for about 20 bucks.
Most underrated printer and designer on TH-cam. Nobody has a machine like this that combines the quality with the speed... trust me I look around a lot.
I don't know about that! There are some fast machines out there and they maybe hide there secrets from YT
@@MrRocksalt I have yet to come across one here! It prints faster than a heavily modified Voron 0 and Annex K3. VzBot and modded RatRig can maybe keep up with your printer... maybe. I haven't seen any print quality samples from either with similar bonkers settings like 60k accel.
@@hd-be7di Too kind! Thank you!
Not to mention he's doing it with a large machine too.
I have a couple but i dont have time to make videos 😅
actual good looking speed benchy!
Gosh I am so proud at how far 3d printers have come. I remember watching the first reprap machines on youtube in the early 10s. Some of the naive hopes of dreamers past are coming true. There was a time when such speed and quality were impossible in the eyes of "experts". Thank you for the great work!
Now that is how a speed benchy should be done. You really nailed the right combination of quality and speed there.
The pinnacle of optimizing! Keep it up. Love seeing these videos!
I recently saw a pic on facebook of two cubes. One was complete trash and the other 99% perfect. The caption for the 1st pic read; Look what I did on my 1st 3d printer! A smiley face next to it. The next pic's caption said; WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH MY PRINTER, with a frown face. The more you look, the more you see.. like getting your car painted and looking from 2 inches away. After awhile you look from 6ft to make that 2" look better. I am the second guy, but still looking close. What this means is.. I am never happy with the results because this hobby cannot be perfect!
Impressive quality for such a speedy benchy, wow
love your videos and the stuff you do :) keep doing it!
Fastest benchy I've seen with pretty good quality
X gantry is the only way to go! Only way to reduce the rocking inaccuracy of coreXY.
Better print quality than my k1 max.
Are those little black cone things in the bottom of the fan ducts acting of a kind of diffuser to spread air across the print where the nozzle is not currently at? I need to redesign mine to cover more surface area because I get curling on the tip of the boat at the beginning of the print. I think my nozzles are pointing too close at the nozzle so when it prints other parts of the boat, its not cooling that small point and the filament curls up.
Here is one video, there are others explaining the function. th-cam.com/video/D8_9uj437Jk/w-d-xo.html
i had that problem when i tried doing part cooling with compressed air. Part just flew straight off the plate as soon as the air had something to grab.
5 bar through a 2mm ID tube was about equal to 3x aliexpress 5015s in flow from what i remember. it worked perfectly after i changed the Y splits in the ducts to T ones and made the turns sharper to lose pressure alongside making the path wider.
what is the rattly noise that starts at 0:23? It's obviously not the machine itself making that noise, and it doesn't start until after the print has started. Is that the fan?
Printer getting ready to break the speed of sound. :)
VERY impressive. I enjoy watching speed benchys that turn out decent rather than that new supposed world record ender benchy
If the too big of a pressure is a problem, maybe you can dilude it by using a smaller diameter hose ?
I think the smaller the hose, the better input shaper results ?
Probably very minimal between hoses. Smaller diameter might help or I can divert some back to the intake. More test and tune! heh.
At least testing is more fun than tuning !
I've never understood the airflow of these ducts. Sure, the air flows from two vents, but why is making the flow of each of them in the middle make sense? Why is that optimal? The air has to go somewhere, and for optimum flow, why is making two air flows head on crash like this, The best? Also, given the description of air knocking the part of the build plate, would not a less obtrusive air flow path, allow for the same cooling, but assert less of a force on the part?
Has anyone tried a push-pull design? with like one fan blowing on the part, and another one sucking that air? Would probably make a ton of sense for directional airflow, and done right, it can be insanely targeted as well. Given the speed of this thing, the air is about as cold on both ends for a push pull. But that would be a completely different design.
I just haven't understood the reasoning for the current designs, as no body actually gives any. Like, not giving any reasoning for the design choices of the air flow. It is all about pushing the air to somewhere, but no reasoning as to what happens to that flow beyond that. Like where the air actually goes. Like in this duct. The air gets to the center, and then magically disappears. Usually with designs like this, the argument would be that the confronting pressure leads the air to the sides, which in my mind, means that not too much of it actually reach the center. If it did, how does that work?
The only argument for this, would be that air actually do not reach the center. The center should be relatively calm. While everything of center, would be a storm. But that is simply not what the crowd is arguing. I am just not getting this.
I don't remember if this was you, but someone made a 3-way duct. It blew from the sides and the back. It did not work. Where were the air flow supposed to go?
Anyway. Love the use of them rails for the cross gantry. Loved to see this work out.
The air out of the valves pushes air 360°, or is intended. This is supplemental air to different areas of the print when the toolhead is not over the print. The valve air is like an air curtain, in the shape of an umbrella and can be felt 150mm from the toolhead.
How it exactly works from a visual perspective, I am not sure. But it works better than any 2 nozzle duct I have tried or made. 2 nozzle ducts are localized to the nozzle. When the toolhead moves over to another coordinate, that plastic is sitting there with no cooling. With the valves, the model get's air when the toolhead is in the vicinity.
If I close the valves for this particular model, and others, it will melt at that low layer time.
With regard to 3 valve, if that's what you saw, the rear middle is to cover air behind the nozzle, at the model. Sometimes you can see prints with more cooling favored to one side. Good cooling in one area and not enough on another. The division of the air to the rear is difficult and upsets the flow path. I can't seem to get the design right.
The air has mass, and coming from the rear wants to push forward. This is why most ducts will have air leading to the front of the machine. As a baseball is thrown, it wants to stay on a straight path.
I know you want to dissect it to try and understand. Did you try it empirically and compare to your RATRIG or VZBOT (I can't remember which printer you have, but your name looks familiar)?
I didn't explain well that I meant by "knocking the part of the plate". The air is not so much pressure that the part comes off from force. It has so much air, 4 layers up when I turn cooling on, the temperature delta against the part causes it to rapidly deform/shrink the plastic on a speed boat. This in turn warps the part and it's lost its surface tension to the plate. I don't have this issue with CPAP blower as the pressure is much lower(100K RPM fan is making the same pressure out the duct at 40% vs 100% of Cpap. I had printed some benchy in 4.5 minutes with this blower and cooling is not an issue with this blower. It can probably print one in 3.5 with exceptional cooling. I didn't try 3.5 because my machine cannot print at those speeds well, with any sensibility of quality.
@@MrRocksalt Thanks. How this duct is designed was lost on me. I did not realize the function of the valves. I have actually been warned about the general cooling you provide, for the very same reason casing your warping issues. To me, this appears to be a balancing act, and there is two different cooling tasks at hand. One is the filament coming out of the extruder the second is the more general cooling. Since having both improves your results, well, than it does improve your results.
It also sounds like you struggle with too much cooling, and thus end up reducing the general cooling, and thus reducing the cooling at the nozzle? If these were independent, it sounds like you would crank the nozzle cooling up? I am sort of lost on how you want to improve this otherwise? If I got this right, aren't you describing the general cooling as being too effective if cranked further?
I also find it interesting that you cool too effectively in general at these speeds. No wonder then, that people struggle at the snail speeds we have been at for ages, if they apply areal cooling like yours.
Anyways. Tanks for answering. This was really worth my time. Really appreciate it.
As for what I was talking about, you got two flows colliding at the nozzle. I was just talking about them flows. I still do not get the physics on how and why this is supposed to be so great. I simply do not get the flow argument.
Just curious, have you tried cooling without directed flow at the nozzle? Like just with valves? My point is, that if you cannot push the flow any higher, due to warping, what sort of cooling effect does this have? And what happens if you dial down the speed to something more normal. Do you need to dial down the cooling?
@@FrodeBergetonNilsen OK, let me try and sort your comments. Valves alone will NOT cool properly. They are supplemental and offer only a small volume of air. I have made some ducts with only valve cooling and it was a failure. When the nozzle was over the part, melts.
For the 2 nozzle's aiming at one another, they are not. They have a downward angle of 40+° and form a point under the nozzle. You could say they collide at that point, but the work is done at that point.
In the video I mention the print coming off the plate. This is from rapid cooling and the part warping off the plate. This is a new blower I am trying to use. It has 2x the pressure of CPAP out the same duct. So the settings for this fan speed is different. Look at some of my other videos when I use CPAP. Layer time settings are sub 1S and it cools just fine and if I fill the parts with water they hold. I have a light bulb print I did in some videos back that I filled with water. It's still full today from that time.
Also, for this benchy, the pump is outside the chamber. So the air is too cold for ABS and partially why it's rate of cooling is bad for this particular filament. If this was PLA it would work great. But I don't print PLA much as it's not worth my time to use it. But I will make another video with benchy, PLA, and see what the min time is I can get with this fan. I will be able to really crank it up and not affect the part.
I think the key with cooling is to find a speed that works with X cooling. Meaning, to the point where the filament is almost melted/edge of failure from too little cooling. Then either speed up the cooling or slow down the print. If you are after specs on material strength, for a particular application, then print at the recommended temp, speed, and fill the enclosure with Nitrogen, test the results, and move on. But I am printing functional prints, models, ETC, just goofing around.
That’s a hell of a printer.
TIG ceramic nozzle???
Isn’t that a good idea?!
thats a great idea for a sock. is that just threaded over wadded kapton?
No! I gutted the metal holder for the cup and affixed it so the cup threads on. The Kapton on top is just to seal the hole/edge of the cup from the sock.
@@MrRocksalt What size is the cup? I might have a size like that at work, would be nice to have that over the silicon sock!
is that a tig ceramic cup over the hot end.
Yes, it is.
"moderate speed"
totally cant tell when the fans turn on
Nice cross gantry. Any ties to annex K3 ?
No, there is nothing taken from Annex on this design. Came from some experience in mechanics and what I thought was a good way. Still similar in some ways as there are not many different ways to do it.
@@MrRocksalt ok I see. I guess I would've started from an annex and forked away, quite courageous to just build a one off.
Teach me of your ways magic 3D pronter man
Psalm 25. I like it!
@@MrRocksalti didn't know i was quoting lol, i just heard the line on the interwebs somewhere
You need to put Volume warning! Where is the FAn itself?
Top of printer to reduce hose length.
What CPAP fan do you use??
WS7040 with 19mm hose. This video was the 100K RPM blower.
@@MrRocksalt where did you get a 100k version
@@cristianboivin5832 I do not recommend the 100K blower. If you want more, get the WS9290 blower. The 100K fan can be bought on amazon for about 20 bucks.
Just over twice as fast as my printer 😮
is that a freaking welding cup? haha
when you have warping issues so what you do is just print faster then it can warp!
Anti-Warp drive is installed. *patent pending
too much frection will limit the garanty life cycle