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Thank you friend, I'm glad you found value in the video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your mods!

Hi Noah, Thank you for commenting and consideration in supporting my work. It looks like they went way down in the diameter of the air jet from their standard orifice size and then playing with different diameter tips to balance the flow. Our standard V3 blast gun needs 18.1 CFM minimum to get the best performance. I have made versions of it using a 3mm air jet combined with a 6mm tip that does a good job at conserving more air so it's possible to run it on a smaller compressor but at the cost of losing blast performance and taking frequent breaks to allow a small compressor to recover. What kind of parts are you planning to clean up?

Hi friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. It depends on how your stock setup was. If it had a MOSFET then wire the output to the MOSFET input. If there was no MOSFET then wire it directly.

Hi Juan, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you got it working again. It's pretty annoying when things go South after an update. Best of luck with your prints :)

Hi friend, thank you for the encouragement, I appreciate you very much. I mostly print with PETG but I haven't tried to combine PETG and TPU. Below is my filament sensor macro, just modify it to fit your needs. Klipper has a pause at layer macro but I haven't played with it. [filament_switch_sensor Filament_runout_sensor] pause_on_runout: True runout_gcode: G91 G1 Z20 F900 # Raise Z away from print G90 G1 X245 Y218.5 F5000 # Move to purge area G91 G1 E-450 F600 # Unload 450mm of filament G90 insert_gcode: G4 P20000 # Pause for 20 seconds G1 E450 F400 # Load 450mm of filament switch_pin: PA4 # Pin that the sensor is connected to

@@vbared thanks for the macro 👍 I'm making a remote housing and using tpu as a membrane to prevent water splashing.

@@iaa66 That sounds super cool, I'm going to have to learn how to combine materials like that, any good sources you can point me to?

@@vbared th-cam.com/video/7nWGfz3__3A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Iy_ZP5V07t4lR_Tw and clough42

Yeah, I hear you and wouldn't go through all that trouble to save a few bucks. The reason for me is learning how to be self reliant an save myself from poor work ethic or incompetence. I can't tell you how many times I've removed wheels to service or check the brakes and found that the balance weights have flung off or clean wheels that were full of dirt in all the crevasses then have vibrations due to them being balanced along with all the dirt from the get go or tires losing air due to beads not being properly cleaned prior to installing new tires. I recently found out that tires purchased from Discount Tire come with free balancing for life regardless of who mounts them, pretty cool. Best of luck with your repairs :)

Hi buddy, Please excuse the delay in answering your comment, I had to do some digging. I don't believe that you need to enter any of the stepper driver configuration fields for the 4988 or the TMC2100 since they are treated as standalone. The TMC2209 and TMC2130s have some specific features that require UART mode and the the extra entries in the printer.cfg which are commented out by default in the M5P printer.cfg Check out page 10 of the link below because they mention the 4988 specifically and the need to have a jumper across SLP and RST pins of each. I would guess that the TMC2100 would be treated the same way unless there are some specific settings for them in the manual, but I didn't see them listed. github.com/bigtreetech/Manta-M5P/blob/master/BIGTREETECH%20MANTA%20M5P%20V1.0%20User%20Manual.pdf

Hello Makergc3D, Thank you for commenting, consideration in supporting my work and heads up about the missing link (see below). victorbared.com/products/ender-3-v2-pro-max-neo-dual-under-mount-enclosures-fit-manta-m5p-cb1?ToPasteBoard&

@@vbared paypal?

@@vp9290 Hi VP, Yes, thank you for your consideration in supporting my work, PayPal is a payment option for the digital files, link below: victorbared.com/products/ender-3-v2-pro-max-neo-dual-under-mount-enclosures-fit-manta-m5p-cb1?ToPasteBoard&

Hi F35, Thank you for commenting. I'm wanting to ditch the single sided lead screw for dual independent controlled timing belts. I find myself having to mess with the unsupported side of the gantry once in awhile to level it to the frame. The Manta M5P with the extra stepper driver allows me to use Klipper to auto level the gantry prior to a print.

Thank you, buddy, I hope you and your family are doing well.

Hi Jeremy, Thank you for commenting, encouragement and suggestion. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. The following video gives more details on making the clamp tool and using it. I've found that doubling it up like I show in the video isn't needed for most applications. You'll get a good sense of how the tool works and a closeup of the finished clamps. Best of luck with your repairs. th-cam.com/video/82E3ARNtglg/w-d-xo.html

Hi friend, your most welcome. It was a fun project and another solid test for what is possible with 3D printing. I can't say it enough, a 3D printer should be in every house. Yesterday I needed to core a pineapple after cutting away the skin and slicing it into disks. Took a measurement of the thickest core diameter and made a punch similar to a doughnut hole cutter. 3D printed it out of PETG and now I have the tool to use on future pineapples. I hope you and B are wonderful. We'll chat soon :)

Hi Smaqdaddy, Thank you for suggesting him, I'll check out his channel for more ideas. Enjoy your day!

Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and suggestion. Kerosene is another great fuel to use. I was surprised at how similarly regular gasoline burns compared to my experiences as a boy scout using kerosene. Best of luck with your projects!

Hi Gabby, Thank you for commenting. Visual Studio, retains previous session data so if a previous session has problems they would carry over to a new session. There is a way to clear this data so you can start fresh but for the life of me I can't remember how I used to do it. Search for how to clear Visual Studio data or cache to find the method to fix it.

@@vbared I installed VSCode specifically for this because i dont usually have to deal with projects big enough to warrant a very robust IDE. However, I was able to resolve the issue last night. It was a mismatch between the firmware files when downloading the latest releases. I think the PDF instructions should be updated to say that you must download the files presented on the main page itself by clicking on the big green button and downloading as a ZIP instead of downloading from latest release.

@@gabbyaraniego396 Hi Gabby, great point, it's been some time since I used Miguel's Professional Firmware. I'll have to revise the process for anyone using Marlin based firmware. Thanks for the heads up and solution.

@@vbared Thank you for your hard work. This is probably the best tutorial for those who have absolutely no experience with firmware building.

@@gabbyaraniego396 I appreciate you, Gabby, thank you.

Hi buddy, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. A Samsung tablet is a great choice for running Klipper screen, big AMOLED display probably looks awesome. Welcome to the most amazing 3D printer control software :)

Texas sized cicadas, so big they have tail numbers.

Hello friend, Thank you for commenting. As far as I know I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere else. I stumbled across this when sorting out a print problem with one of two almost identical printer setups, the only difference was the Z-offset. One was -2.86 the other was -1.34 so to fix the issue I had to manually edit the mesh on the machine which the -2.86 Z-offset at the points where the filament wasn't being deposited at the proper height. It was like creating a bed mesh just screwed up my prints. Anyways, this drove me crazy for a year or so until I started to get into editing Marlin and came across a setting that designated the minimum Z-offset at -2.00. Klipper has the same feature although it's easy alter to a greater - Z-offset than recompiling a Marlin firmware. The best solution is to minimize the Z-offset variable by having it be tiny so I set all mine, using the adjustable probe mount we created, between -0.25 to -0.50. One thing that is very important is that your hotend is warmed up to a high enough temperature for the filament to be soft but not running prior to homing so any filament that is on the nozzle can mush during homing. I set this up in my start g-code prior to G28 so it's automatic whenever I start a print.

@@vbared interesting, I'm working with a z offset of 2.3, I haven't printed anything large enough yet to cause an issue from the mesh but am going to keep an eye out for this. Fantastic Klipper install guide, thank you again

Hi Adam, I haven't tried plugging anything into that port. Give one of these solutions a try. Please let me know if one of them worked for you. www.reddit.com/r/BIGTREETECH/comments/105zm18/hdmi_on_manta_m8p_with_cb1_not_working/

@@vbared Actually, it looks like the mini hdmi port on the front can not be used with the cb1, only when you use a pi. Appreciate your assistance and the link though

Hi Kevin, On page 12 of the PDF near the bottom there is an LS command. Copy that complete command, paste it into an open PuTTy session and press enter. It should respond with a series of numbers and letters. That response is what you need to place in the printer.cfg file in the MCU section. If the output says something like file not found or dir not found then try a different USB to micro cable.

Hello friend, Thank you for commenting. I haven't tried to change it but if there is a way to do it looking through some forums might help.

Hi Jacob, I mostly print with PETG and it worked great in this application. All the .STL files for this project can be found in my Shopify store linked below. Thank you in advance for your consideration in supporting my work. victorbared.com/products/harbor-freight-manual-tire-changer-upgrade-parts?ToPasteBoard&

@@vbared Thanks i got the plans!

@@suplyjones Awesome, Jacob, Thank you. Send me some pictures of your completed tool vbared@gmail.com

Thank you, friend, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. 3D printers are amazing tools. I'm constantly being blown away with all the different uses I find for them. Best of luck with your projects!

Hello, I'll run some tests and see if the same thing happens to me. Klipper has had some updates since I made the original video. It's possible something has changed. Recently I just ran the ADXL345 tests and saved the recommended values to my printer.cfg file. I didn't run the ringing tower test.

Hello, Are you running dual lead screws?

​@@vbared I am trying but i realized there is no support for klipper just marlin . I mean could be a huge contribution if someone does the kinematics for klipper . A task that requires time

I'm running dual independent Z-lead screws on one of my Klipper machines. Add: Z_TILT_ADJUST after your G28 ; Home all axes in you start g-code. G28 ; Home all axes Z_TILT_ADJUST Enter the lines below into your printer.cfg but make sure to tweak the numbers to fit your bed. The first set of numbers before the comma is X and after is Y [z_tilt] z_positions: 284, 108 12, 108 points: 284, 108 12, 108 speed: 50 horizontal_move_z: 5 retries: 20 retry_tolerance: 0.0075

Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your build, it's a blast to use, pun intended :)

@@vbared Hello friend. Thank you, I am interested in building the same device for myself, and from your video, I got a lot of information I needed. Good luck with your new projects. Greetings from Ukraine!

Hi Michael, Thank you for commenting and Schrader valve name, I should have looked it up to properly refer to it. Best of luck with your repairs :)

Lol what? You can definitely balance tires at home. That's all I could make sense of out of this rambling mess.

Yes, you are correct, the wheel must be balanced. I've balanced 12 wheels using a bubble balancer that I made in CAD and 3D printed. The three vehicles run smoothly without vibrations that can be felt. One interesting thing about the Hyundai Genesis Coupe wheels in the video is that its centerline didn't allow my bubble balancer to work properly without a redesign so I had to take to Discount Tire to get them balanced. It turns out that tires bought from Discount Tire come with lifetime balance at no cost regardless of who mounts them. It didn't cost me anything extra to have them machine balanced since I bought my tires from them.

Thank you for the suggestion, Connie, I'll have to give that a try.

@@vbared If I could put up the picture of one of my pieces I would. I did pictures of candy one of the pictures is a candy cane. I have to say I was amazed my self at this particular blast I did because the stripe on one candy cane was so thin I thought it is going to get blown off but when I took the piece out and I removed that hair thin piece I was gob smacked. I would like to do a real rabbit just grazing on the side of a salad bowl just to see how it looks.

@@vbared I love what you done on the bottle. My first piece was a wine bottle everyone drank at Christmas dinner. I put everyone's name on it that was there. Not complicated but it was scary cause everyone was watching me do my very first piece to see how well it came out.

Hello, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. That would be awesome and I wouldn't doubt there is a way to do it. I would use a search term "how to use an android phone as a webcam for PC"

Hi David, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. Yeah, it drove me crazy and I just started messing with different settings until I found the one that moved the print. I'm glad the setting was useful to you. Best of luck with your prints.

Hi Anthony, double check the brake line receiver ring for cracks. It yours is damaged it might not stay on regardless of how tight the clip is. I didn't have any trouble with mine it just clipped in snuggly.

Hi friend, I agree 100% with you, lube, lube, lube.

Hello, thank you for commenting. Agreed, so many possibilities with 3D printing.

Hi Duane, Thank you for your kindness. I'm glad the custom G10 met your expectations. The product reviews that knock it's flatness don't realize that because of its thickness it conforms to the surface beneath it. Creality aluminum beds are stamped out from large sheets of aluminum so they vary in flatness. My worst aluminum bed is shaped like a Pringles Potato chip in the mesh viewer but that's where the magic from the probed bed comes in to save the day. I totally print with confidence on G10, just start the print and I know it won't have adhesion issues. Enjoy the new print possibilities. Have a wonderful day :)

I had that issue also until i realized i need to change the file association to python.exe instead of pythonw.exe.

@@DuaneBendt-ch2od So you've chosen a different app, but then you typed 'pythonw.exe' in the Explorer window that opened, and opened that one after.

@@robbevaneekelen did my response really disappear? anyway, right click the configurator file and choose properties. under the general tab near the "opens with" click on "change" that will open another dialog box then choose more apps, scroll down to the bottom and click on "look for another app on this pc" navigate to C:\program files\python 311(or whatever version you have)\python.exe highlight it then click open. then click apply and then ok just to make sure. then you should be able to run the configurator. oh, and i never ran it from pythonw.exe. and my printer is working perfectly.

Hello, Have you tried as to associate the python.exe association as Duane suggested. If that doesn't work for you try finding Python 3.9.7 instead of the most recent one. It will properly associate the files out of the box.

Hello, Thank you for commenting. What control board are you running on your Ender 3, is it the stock green one?

@@vbared It's the OEM one it came with, but it's black.

@@deucedeuce1572 What's the model number?

Hello, thank you for commenting and encouragement. Yeah, if you are having issues with bed adhesion at certain points on your bed then tightening up your Z-offset, by moving the probe up 2mm so you end up with 0.85 will take care of that issue. Let me know if making that change solves the issue for you. Best of luck with your mods :)

Hi Francois, My apologies for my late reply. I was going to post a video on the actual installation into my Ender 3 V2 but haven't finished editing it yet. What questions do you have on it so I can try to help you get it installed.

Hello friend, thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you were able to repair your own window mechanism. Saving money is wonderful. Best of luck :)

Hi Thomas, thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. It's a super cool torch. Best of luck with yours :)

Hi Joel, Thank you for commenting. Yeah, each element on the sliced file usually have different print speeds but increasing the slower parts too much can severely degrade or totally cause the print to fail. The longer the print the greater the time savings. An item I regularly print when from 13 hours at 55 mm/s down to 8 at 100/mm/s without messing with any of different element speeds. Best of luck with your mods!

You're most welcome, friend. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your tweaks :)

Hello, Look through the advanced menus for a setting that expands the probe area to bed max, just be mindful of the bed clips the first time you run it. The firmware has a bunch of adjustments. Make them as needed to avoid the bed clips while probing what's left. Best of luck with your mods!

@@vbared It turned not to b the probe settings but the bed size. I had a look at the stock firmware and the max bed setting didn't have numbers it had text so I copied it. Instead of MAX_BED_POSITION 300 I changed it to MAX_BED_POSITION MAX_BED_SIZE That has worked and the printer now probes all of the bed. The positions are off slightly but at least it now knows the bed size so I'll go back in and look at the advanced settings.

@@vbared Hi, took some messing about but it turned out to be the max bed size. Putting X_MAX_POS 300 didn't work but X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE did. It then probed the print area and after tweaking the physical size on the printers screen it's spot on. Thanks again for the video and info.

@@ME-eg5gy Excellent news, I'm glad you found the right place to make the adjustments. Enjoy all the new features :)

also would you recommend the Biqu bed leveling sensor?

Hi, Thank you for commenting. Yes, you need two. One of them will live in the Raspberry Pi so I would recommend using the fastest SD card you can find within your budget. It doesn't need to be more than 32gb in size, just fast.

Hello Makergc3D, Thank you for commenting. Unfortunately, I haven't any experience with a Sprite hotend so I can't say if using it produces better prints than the Micro Swiss NG REVO. The standard NG has a short constrained filament path, the gearing is metal and produces more torque than any other other current extruder tested in 2022. The REVO version of the NG has all the same elements plus a leak proof, tool less quick change nozzle system. It's unique setup creates some design challenges when looking to improve on the subpar cooling solution that's included with it. I wanted to improve not only on its appearance but also reducing overall weight while increasing cooling performance so I designed one from scratch linked below. Since my goal was to keep the design compact I had to forgo the Noctua fan, unfortunately, they don't make a 3010 version. The Ender 5 Pro is an awesome platform to build on and there are corexy conversion kits for it. The Manta M5P+CB1 is a feature packed combo but it is a bit more complicated to setup so you must be willing to deal with some up front head aches to get everything working properly. Klipper just had a major software upgrade that the folks at BigTreeTech are still playing catch up to get all the board features working again. If you go the Manta M5P+CB1 route then make sure to use the CB1 image version 2.3.2 and don't update Klipper to its latest version. Using the 4.2.7 and Raspberry Pi combo will be easier to get Klipper and all its features working since there is a lot more documentation and community support than the CB1 Manta new kids on the block. Proper Printing 2022 Extruder Shootout Video - th-cam.com/video/0jlW4ivSDko/w-d-xo.html victorbared.com/products/minimalist-dual-parts-fan-micro-swiss-ng-revo-ducts-for-dual-4010-blowers-single-3010-fan-stl-files-for-diy-3d-printing?ToPasteBoard& Enjoy your mods!

Hello, thank you for commenting and information. Yes, I should have mentioned that at the beginning of the video. Were you able to get one built? Best of luck with your mods :)

Hello, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. A couple of things to check: Make sure you are using CB1 image version 2.3.2 and don't update Klipper once it's installed, images 2.3.3 and 2.3.4 won't work properly using this guide. The others thing to verify is that the BoadENV.txt file has the proper entries in it per the PDF instructions.

@@vbared Sigh...I feel like such an idiot. I totally forgot I had also got an EMMC version of the CB1 and that was the one I had installed on the board. I moved the standard CB1 to the PI4 adapter board. D'OH!!! So after much self recrimination and berating myself I got it up and running. And boy howdy are you right that the steps in your guide don't work for the 2.3.4 release. But now I have a running klipper screen and can go through the rest of the configuration. This is for another day though. But I've bookmarked your guide and I'll be using it when I get the Pi4 adapter going. 😀

@@Enjoymentboy No such thing, only learning. Yeah, the eMMc version requires some different steps. Great job getting it going, it can get frustrating learning new processes. Best of luck with your mods!

Hi Scott, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your build :)

Hi Duane, If I recall correctly, you should be able to change the the bed size in one of the menus but make sure to store the settings and possibly power it off and on again. My apologies, I've upgraded all my machines to Klipper and it's been awhile since I've used Miguel's Professional Firmware.

@@vbared no apologizes needed sir, i would not have made it this far as quickly without all you have done. as you stated, i was able to correct the issue in a menu setting. oddly enough, all the numbers were correct until i looked in the mesh menu, the numbers were too small. then i clicked on the "Maximize Area" and it corrected all sizes. how odd. thank you again for all you do, your videos are appreciated more than you know.

@@duanebendt Awesome news, Duane. I'm glad you sorted it out. Miguel's Professional Firmware is the best Marlin firmware currently that gives you access to Linear Advance and Input Shaping. The only thing it lacks really are the proper testing scripts and external hardware device support to take advantage of them. That's one of the main reasons I have moved over to Klipper, cleaner and faster prints.