Ender 3 Pro V2 - Steppers too hot? How to set the correct stepper voltages step-by-step
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ค. 2023
- How to calculate and set the correct voltages for your stepper motors.
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Awesome video. I am having layer shifting on my ender 3 v2 and also have noticed how hot my stepper motors are getting. This video has helped me loads in learning how to adjust them correctly. Thank you.
Hi Ryan, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Please send me some pictures to vbared@gmail.com of the layer shifts so I can help you diagnose the problem.
I custom made the upgrade linked below to further reduce the y-stepper temps down to just warm by replacing the plastic housing for an aluminum one, which not only acts like a large heatsink but also transfers heat to the long 40x40mm extrusion that it's bolted to. The root causes of the y-stepper heat buildup is that the stepper has no way to move that away from it when it's isolated from the aluminum extrusion it's bolted to by a plastic part that acts like an insulator. The VREF adjustment helps but doesn't totally solve it, this part does. Check out my video on it linked last.
amzn.to/4bpgjza
th-cam.com/video/xHNsFD8OJBI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fxs6s780iPINv401
@@vbared Thank you for reply, I have emailed you with some images, and thank you again for that advice also. I will look at getting one of those.
I have a friend who maybe parting with some Zaribo stepper motors so, if it persists I may give these a go, as they apparently run cooler .
thank you for the video man i really like how well you explained everything so detailed this is something that would seem very hard as a someone new to it and you make it really easy to get.
Hi Nat, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. I made the linked part below after further analyzing the y-stepper heat issue to get the stepper temps to just barely warm.
amzn.to/3OZk5FX
Best of luck with your mods:)
Great information. I always wonder why my stepper motor got so hot on my CR10. Thanks for helping me on building a firmware of ender extender. I can wait until I get the printer up and running. Next I might try convert my Anycubic Kobra Max to use creality components. The Kobra keeping breaking down I had it close to a year. Most of that is had been down for parts. Thanks for posting this video.
Hi Gary,
I'm excited for you to get your new display in so you can get blown away by how awesome Miguel's Professional Firmware is.
Enjoy your week :)
Very good information, will have to check my 4.2.2 board because my "Y" stepper motor feels too hot too (compared to the others).
Hi Andy, Thank you for commenting. When I saw that PETG deforming like that I thought, WOW! It's crazy to me that Creality puts the boards out without adjusting those pots for the steppers they will be driving.
I also noted my "Y" was hot so I grabbed my pizza infra red meeter while printing a 12*12 cm in size thingy, The voltages are quite high but I think the heat comes from that Y moves more combined with that I print faster nowadays with input shaping (E3V2 with 4.2.2 and SW mriscoc for IS )
E Z Y X
C Temp org 40 30 50 30
V org 1,40 1,19 1,18 1,18
@@user-ih4fj4lj7t That's a great point, the extra speed compounds the problem. Since making the adjustments and running some long prints at 100mm/s to test, the problem is solved for me. The steppers are still hot but not enough to burn your finger tips or deform any of the PETG parts.
Important topic👌
Thank you, friend :)
I'm running my extruder stepper motor 1.5voltage. It runs relatively hot, but still cool enough to touch. After experimwnting with different voltages higher voltage seems to to provide smoother operation and less noise.
With BMG clone extruder I'm able to adjust voltage as low as 0.75v without skipping but then the opearation does not seem to be as smooth as when having higher voltage.
Hello Madvelila, Thank you for commenting. For me the motor that was cooking was the 42-34 Y-stepper. I was getting so hot it was deforming my PETG housing. I appreciate the info on your stepper motor voltage so I can keep an eye on mine.
Best of luck with your prints!
I was unaware there was an Ender 3 Pro v2.. though I can't say I'm entirely surprised, hopefully this works on my E3pro "v1" (seems like it should, but I'll have to get a multi meter first)
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting. Yes all of these videos will also work with a stock Ender 3 Pro. I call my Ender 3 Pro a V2 because of changes I made to it. The Creality Ender 3 V2 in my opinion is the pinnacle for this series of printer given its price point, so when I bought some used Ender 3 Pros it was more obvious to me. The Ender 3 Pro V2 videos was essentially me making them more Ender 3 V2 like along with other coexistence, reliability and performance improvements. Yeah, a multimeter is a must for maintaining and upgrading your 3D printers.
Best of luck with your upgrades!
Am I glad I upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to an SKR E3 mini v2.0 a long time ago and with some extra wires had the TMC2209s working in UART mode (using 2 spare GPIOs). Changing the current is then simply via a menu in Marlin or config setting in Klipper. In 2023 any decent board should no longer require adjusting trimpots for current nor adding extra wires for UART or SPI mode. Boards still requiring that are pre-pandemic tech ;-)
Hello MisterkeTube, Thank you for commenting. Yeah, man, I hear you it's super annoying have to open up the printer to deal with stuff like that. I too am spoiled by Klipper. Which board are you using that doesn't have adjustment pots to deal with. I recently picked up an SKR mini 3 V3 and am stoked about getting it into my Coreception 300. Please share your Klipper printer.cfg so I can take a look at the UART entries.
Best of luck with your mods!
The case for the source was made by you, incredible?
Hi Marcel, Thank you for your kindness. Yes, I designed all the 3D printed parts on this printer except for the belt tensioners.
I'm mechanically inclined so when I come across problems I visualize the solution, use CAD software to refine the ideas and the 3D printer to make it physical.
I started learning OnShape a few years ago. It's been the most intuitive of the CAD programs for me to use.
Hello friend, you are a master in 3D printing.
Thank you Marcel, I've been 3D printing items that I sell for several years so I have a lot of experience using PETG, modifying the printer and tuning it.
TH-cam has been a great source of information for me and as you learn more about 3D printing you'll easily spot the good videos.
@@vbared Excellent, the thing is that I don't give it with the values of bed limits since when it starts instead of extruing inside the bed it does it outside.
@@vbaredHas. profiles for PETG
@@marcelrios806 Marcel, is it possible for you to video the problem you are having so I can see it? You can upload it to Google drive and send me the link.
@@vbared Of course, I'm very grateful for your help
Thank you for this video. However, after tuning, my Y motor is still crazy hot compared to my X which is practically still ice cold,
Hello legoman786, Thank you for commenting. What build plate are you using?
@@vbared A magnetic PEI sheet. I also have the modular Y carriage and machined heat bed from Gulf Coast Robotics. Then, I have a linear Y rail kit on the way, because I noticed some deformations in the aluminum extrusion along the wheel path that is wrecking my layers.
what about for a DUAL Z motor? I also upgraded my Y stepper to a larger motor, because that small motor is working way to hard for all that weight that's why it gets so hot. I turned my vref up a bit and being a bigger motor that thing runs so cool! I also upgraded my X motor to the size of the extruder because that also gets hot, especially since converting to direct drive. I think the more weight you add, the bigger the motor should be. and this should also help with the downside for having too much weight on a direct drive, ringing theoretically should be less as well.
Hello Hey It's Drew, Thank you for commenting and info about swapping the 42-34s for 42-40s. You're right that's another way to solve the problem. Most people aren't going to mess with the vrefs.For the dual z I would set the vref to 1.1 volts and run some narrow vase mode test print. Are you using glass for the build plate or something else?
So you did change your y and x steppers to bigger ones?
What size stepper did you put on there?
And do you use the original 4.2.2 board?
Hello, I think the calculations are incorrect since the driver of your motherboard is not A4988, as you can see you have a sticker that says T5 that corresponds to the TMC2225 drivers. In other cases it puts T8 that correspond to the TMC2208.
For the TMC2208 and I think for the TMC2225, the formula is Vref = Imax * 1.385
Hello Luis,
Thank you for commenting and info on the TMC2225. You're 100% correct on the differences in stepper drivers in the Ender 3 V2 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 boards vs the A4988 formula we used to calculate vref.
Most of the time stepper voltage isn't too big of a deal if the printer operates in an air conditioned space. But if the printer is inside of an enclosure or in a small room with other running printers then stepper voltages that are set to near max will trip the internal thermal switches resulting in stepper shutdown. The A4988 included in the Ender 3 Pro's 4.2.2 board is a good base reference where we got the "8" value to plug into the formula to calculate the vref. The max amps are determined by the steppers themselves. My buddy Doug found that by using the A4988 formula to set the base, all of the other 3D printer stepper drivers variations can be captured. The method I used in the video works perfectly for my Ender 3 Pro with 4.2.7 board, and TMC2225s running Klipper. That production part I printed was a good test as it took 8 hours to complete. Should it have had problems I would have simply increased the voltage by 5% on the stepper that had the trouble until it printed the same as it did when it was cooking the steppers minus the extra heat.
I appreciate the time you took to comment and read through my rant. Enjoy your week and 3D printing.
does it work with my ender 3v2 with 4.2.2 board? can i use the same values as you? Best regards
Hello blvckartz1355, Thank you for commenting. Yes, the values would be the same.
Best of luck with your mods!
Hello Victor, I need your help to set up my ender 3 pro with Sprite pro and the limits turned out well. But I have an ender 3 I set the same limits and it hits the x-axis at the end.
Hi Marcel, What hits, the screws at the back of the gantry bracket?
Yes, Victor at the end of the X axis. I thought about cutting the screw but I wanted to consult you before.
@marcelrios806 Hi Marcel, yes, you can cut it like I cut mine. You'll also need to cut the bottom one down as well and grind down the cap head nuts but from the non-lock side. The first link is how mine looks after cutting down the screws and grinding the nuts down as well. The second link is a video that I made on how to do it.
photos.app.goo.gl/Qtb6gaaKfNFzdCMG7
th-cam.com/video/l-mrw8YvLBU/w-d-xo.html
@@vbared Excellent Victor, a teacher. I wanted to ask you about the regulators of the X axis and Y axis. You do it because they are great. Then send me the website where you sell your impressions that I will share and promote to some friends.
Its the same for Ender 3 S1??
Hi Armando, The S1 board is layed out a bit different but it does also have the adjustment pots. I don't have first hand experience since I don't have an S1. Make sure that you get the resister values as indicated in the video so you can calculate the correct vref needed. I would also write down the stock voltages for each of the steppers just in case you need to revert back. Just keep an eye on your first few prints after the adjustment to make sure the prints look the same and adjust up as needed.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Thanks in advance, indeed I opened the printer and followed the steps in your video because my PAP motors are the same as the ones you show (nema 17, 42-34) the only thing that differs is the Creality board. I could see that the steppers don't get hot like they did with factory settings.
@@armandoramirez8760 Hi Armando, Great job making the adjustments. Mine were cooking during long prints.