Ender 3 Pro V2 Miguel's Professional Firmware Calibrating Linear Advance For Perfect Corners
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2024
- How to calibrate linear advance on an Ender 3 Pro running a 4.2.7 board and Miguel's Professional Firmware.
Video support files - drive.google.com/uc?export=do...
SUNLU PETG Filament I use (link gets you 10% off everything)-
www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=1963556.W9O42SO2z
My Ultimate Ender 3 V2 Build List -
Ender 3 V2 - amzn.to/3BF2XwF
Upgrades in order of importance:
G10 Garolite Build Surface - amzn.to/3tNSGg8
Creality 3D Printer Accessories Kit - amzn.to/3OqxQOB
Anti Backlash Nut with Lead Screw Support - amzn.to/3opukWR
Creality CR-Touch - amzn.to/3AFBytd
Micro Swiss dual gear extruder kit - amzn.to/3quGWx6
E3D V6 All-Metal Hotend - amzn.to/3zcu3wo
Adaptor E3D V6 to the Ender 3 V2 mount - victor-bared.myshopify.com/pr...
Compatible blower fans for the mount above - amzn.to/3tuKfqm
M2 X 8mm self-tapping (need 8) - amzn.to/3qulw3o
M3 X 12mm pan head (need 4) - amzn.to/3fqjP0B
M3 x 6mm hex button cap screw - amzn.to/349l6Hy
Install Video of E3D V6 - • E3D V6 All Metal Hoten...
Super Quiet Upgrades & How-to Video:
4 Dunlop Squash Balls (Need 2 Sets of 3) - amzn.to/32jPqhH
Noctua 40x10mm Fans (Need 2) - amzn.to/3JjSTxq
Noctua 80x25mm Fan - amzn.to/3Jk2u7i
How to install the quiet fan - • Ender 3 V2 Near Silent...
kevinakasam.com/belt-driven-e...
3D Printable Files - drive.google.com/file/d/1EP_I...
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Hey brother, you're continuing to steadily raise the quality bar with these videos. Keep it going!
Hi Brad, what's going on brother? I appreciate you very much. How's the CR10S Pro V2?
You've got some great videos on tuning the printer. A playlist of start > finish would be amazing! Thanks!
Hello TheMrDrMs, Thank you for your kind comment. I'm glad you are finding value in the content for your viewing time. I've been running a small print farm for the last 4 years so I've had my share of headaches. If I can save you some time just ask.
Happy printing :)
@@vbared Oh that's awesome, thanks for the offer! I had asperations to do the same about then too, but never did it - life happened and my e2 and e3v2 sat idlely by. I had Jyers on them, working phonemally well, but figured I might as well check out mriscoc, and oh boy am I having troubles on the v2, so I'm just going thru your videos to get it dialed in again. I might take you up on the offer if I end up wasting enough time and plastic lol.
wow I saw on screen had Linear Advance and Input Shaper in your FW, I'll been waiting you test input shaper on Miguel's Professional Firmware , in my case once after put number all command on lcd super delay, than I flash back to base on Miguel's Professional Firmware in have not Linear Advance or Input Shaper, by follow your clip I will jump to Linear Advance package, and thank you for your All Tips and teachings
Hi gift, Thank you for your kind comment. Yes, Miguel has experimental features that can be enabled using his custom configurator. I made a video on how to do this linked here - th-cam.com/video/2NqHNYtyEa4/w-d-xo.html
You'll need to know what specific display screen you have so you can select the right one in the configuration tool.
Best of luck with your mods!
Great video!
Hello, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your mods!
Always the best videos, Victor! You are really great. May I ask whi did you come back to Marlin and not sticking to Klipper? I am also with Miguel'sProf SW today and pretty happy. PETG is a breeze :)
But Klipper seems attractive with higher speed and automated input shaping. Your comments are welcome!
Hello Jacques, Thank you for your kind comment.
I have 4 machines that run Mainsail Klipper and one that has Miguel's Professional Firmware. Klipper is hands down the way to go but I keep this one machine on what I consider to be the closet firmware, feature wise, to Klipper. Great job learning to print with PETG. Shortly after learning about PLA's heat intolerance I switched to PETG strictly and haven't looked back. It's a little more finicky to figure out but once dialed in it's just as clean to print with and way more durable than PLA. Nylon is another great material to print with but, it must free of moisture and printed from a dry or heated box, super clean and will bend instead of breaking. I still haven't figured out ABS both times I've played with it have ended in me saying, why would anyone in their right mind want to use this material? When I finally figure it out I'll post a video about it.
Enjoy the week :)
Great video, can you please create a video on fixing z banding please. I cannot resolve this issue no matter what I do. Thanks
Hi Rav, Thank you for commenting. Please link a picture of the problem you're having so I can see if it's a problem I've had before.
Noticed the new style clamps holding the Garolite. Better than clips in your Garolite install video? What are they and where does one find them? Thanks!
Hello, Yes, the document binders leave a lot to be desired. I found the bed clips after making that video. I'll have to redo it an show the new clips linked below.
amzn.to/3ObXBBX
Thanks for the bed clip info! I have an 3v2 (not an S1). Will Miguel's firmware version optimized for the S1 work with my 3v2?
Hello
Great guide!
After calibration, which settings in Cura must remain changed as at the beginning of the guide?
Were these initial changes in cura made only for calibration and can they be used to return to previous settings?
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
The CURA settings that were modified are only for the test prints. So once they done and you found the linear advance value for your printer, you can revert those settings back to what they were. Also make sure to delete the post processing m900 script in CURA.
Enjoy your weekend (:
@@vbared
Thank you for your answer, may the force be with you :)
Hi victor, nice video. I have a question, linear advance is compatible with tmc2208 drivers? Few months ago, i've tried to activate linear advance but mi stepper motors doesnt do anything. I read in a forum that linear advance was not compatible with these drivers, its that true? or this problem been fixed?. Thanks a lot
Hi Miguel, Thank you for commenting. Yeah, I read the same forums and I'm not sure why they say this because all linear advance is just another form of retractions that occur within a layer when corners are encountered. How you can verify this is by installing a firmware that supports it, like Miguel's Professional Firmware. Zero out the advance K value and print something. The only time you will see the extruder retract is during a layer change or move between points of the same model but when you turn it on and set the advance K value to something like .500 you're going to see retractions within the same layer when direction changes are encountered. This indicates to me that the info in the forums aren't correct. The purpose of linear advance is to improve the appearance of corners so if after it's activated and you see significant improvements in the appearance of the corners then it must be working.
@@vbared Works perfectly. Thanks for all, keep doing videos like this :)
@@MiguelRamos-du4gm Awesome, The feature makes a big difference in how clean the print edges look.
Hi Victor, do you have a seperate video on how to configure pressire advance / jerk on mainsail klipper.
Hi Rav, Yes, I made a video on it, see the link below.
th-cam.com/video/2WQPF5XseN0/w-d-xo.html
@@vbaredCan you create for Klipper Mainsail using direct drive please.
I have the S1 Pro. Thinking about getting the V2 HMI to be able to run this firmware.
Hi smaqdaddy, What is the HMI?
@@vbared HMI- shorthand for control screen (human machine interface); sorry, It is a force of habit.
@@smaqdaddy No worries, I love learning new lingo, thanks for the reply :)
Hi Victor, I flashed a compiled version of mriscoc with LA enabled, and followed these steps to a T! I didn't get any gap in my printed part afterwards and can't find any reason why. Under control -> motion -> advanced K shows my final K value properly too, and during the print I can see the extruder make the adjustments.
Hi Donny, Thank you for commenting. Are you running direct drive or stock bowden tube setup? If bowden you might need to increase your base retraction a bit to get that gap to show up during the k value test print. If the micro retractions are happening within each layer then increasing the main main retraction to something between 1.25 to 1.75 should induce that gap to appear at some point. If the gap appears right out of the gate then turn the main retraction down to between 1.0 to 1.25
Victor, I was running retractions at normal, which was 4mm. Should I reduce that way down for this test calibration? Also, I saw combing was on, I should probably turn that off too? Thanks for your reply also!
@@_donny_9473 Leave the combing on since you're going to be using during prints, it's always best to have things set as close to an actual print as possible.
Anytime, Donny!
Hey Victor, how can I contact you regarding the Blasting nozzle I bought? collar failed and I need a replacement, good product other than this issue
Hi David, Thank you for supporting my work. I'm sorry to hear about this issue. Please call or email me 478-227-3301 vbared@gmail.com so I can get a replacement part out to you.
May I know if you need to turn off retractions in Cura for this test? My guess is that there will be minimal to no impact with retractions on since it is printing straight lines.
Hi Chris,
The Linear Advance is simply micro retractions when direction changes are encountered within a layer unlike the standard retraction that occurs only after a layer is completed or moves from one part to another. I did my testing with the standard retraction enabled in CURA. The idea is to see how much more Linear Advance retraction could be added before you start getting under-extrusion during the standard retraction. The linear advance stacks on the standard retraction. So lets say that your standard retraction is 2mm for a bowden setup to minimize stringing and you add an additional .500mm Linear Advance value then the total retraction when changing layers would be 2.5mm. If that causes a small gap at the beginning of the next layer then lower the .500mm linear advance by .0250mm and test it again. Keep lowering your number until that small gap is no longer occurring. If your corners still look bad then you can try lowering your standard retraction in CURA to let's say 1.75 to reallocate some of the primary retraction to the Linear Advance value to help improve the corners prior to a layer change.
@@vbared thanks for the detailed explanation! will definitely take your advice into consideration. i did reduce my retraction settings after applying pressure advance but it caused extra filament to be extruded - so i reverted to my original retraction settings. looks like i will have to investigate a bit more to see what's happening. really appreciate your detailed explanation!
@@chriseow Have you checked your e-steps? Which firmware are you using? Miguel's Professional Firmware or Klipper?
@@vbared yes I did check my esteps. actually the extra extrusion is not a lot, just a little bit extra at the corners. that was when i reduced my retraction after introducing pressure advance. i am using klipper.
@@chriseow Bowden or Direct Drive? What is your current retraction set to?
my professional firmware 2.1.3 doesn't have an "advance K" option on the screen. I ran the test anyway, just the straight fresh stl then the modified one and I didn't see any difference and no rip. What am i doing wrong? ender3 v2
Hi Philip, Is your firmware a pre build one of did you compile it yourself?
If it's a pre-built it may no have the advanced features. The video below will guide you step by step on making your own. Make sure to download Python version 3.9 it seems that the newer ones won't open the configurator file.
th-cam.com/video/2NqHNYtyEa4/w-d-xo.html
@@vbared The firmware is prebuild. I am new and every time i try to make changes i get a ton of errors and can't seem to get them fixed so i stay with the prebuilts. I will look into this video. thank you very much for the help!!!
@@PThompson381 Hi Phillip, email me vbared@gmail.com the details of your machine by that I mean the selections you would make using the configurator tool, I'll compile it for you. Use the link below to determine which display board your screen has.
github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/tree/Ender3V2S1-Released/display%20assets
I only get 45 layers in total ? i followed everything in the guide.
And when u calculate 18mm times 0.4mm its 45, how are u getting 46 ? :D
Hello, Thank you for commenting. If you look at the g-code using something like Notepad++ you'll notice that there is a layer 0, which is the base layer. Since that layer is usually squished to provide the adhesion to the build plate and the layer height is less than .4mm the slicer labels it as zero.
Hey again@@vbared
I am using Notepad++, and i can see you get to layer 45, i only get to layer 44 in the Gcode when i open it in Notepad++.
How is that ? I can see when you are at layer 0, it says 46 layers in total, mine only says 45..
Hope you can help
@@frederikaastrup2497 Hi Frederik, I'm not sure, maybe a mistake with my count but don't worry about that. The rest of the calculations should get you very close to the perfect number. Take the results you get and run a test print. If there is gap in the place where the layer changes are then just decrease the K value by .025 and run the test print again.
The S1 Pro one is lacking in features. Great machine though!
Miguel's Professional Firmware Supports the S1, What trouble are having flashing it?
Wait what? Its still wrong.
th-cam.com/video/dkpxZnoitBc/w-d-xo.html
Yes, you are right, I'm still measuring from the top down but the reason I'm not measuring from the bottom is because the first two layers have a k value of zero and the amount of squish of the first layer will vary. So measuring from the top down will remove those variables.
The overall number of layers when the 18mm tall model is sliced at .4 layer height is 46. So when I say in the video to subtract the 25 from 44 (I'm leaving out the 2 layers that are zero) the result just needs to be multiplied by the k incremental value of 0.025 to get the Advance K (linear advance) value.
You're thinking "This guy is nuts, he still doesn't get what I'm saying!", lol.
@@vbared Lol. :)
I just skipped ahead to that point to see the change and didnt see any and commented then, ;)