CHC Pro Volcano with Dual 5015 Blower Fans Install on The Ender 3 V2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.พ. 2024
- How to install the CHC Pro Volcano and dual 5015 blower fans on the Ender 3 V2.
CHC Pro Volcano - trianglelab.net/products/chc-...
CHC Pro Volcano Fan Bracket and Ducts STL - victorbared.com/products/mini...
5015 Blower Fans - amzn.to/3wjwLRA
Locking Adjustable Wrench - amzn.to/4bQ983w
M2x8 coarse thread - amzn.to/49CimOJ
M3 Screw Kit - amzn.to/3wbbEAP
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gladd you still make for the ender 3.. i will never give it up lol
Hello, Thank you for commenting. The Ender 3 V2 is one of my work horses. I run a small 7 printer farm so increasing speed for me equates to more production without having to add more machines.
Best of luck with yours :)
I like it Victor. Nice work.
When I see it, I think leaf blower, lol. It's growing on me though. Hopefully, I can improve performance enough to justify the extra bulk.
Hey Victor! I like this monster you have created! I Love this Hotend! Im running the pro on my T100 and it is a beast. I have mine paired with a volcano dimondback nozzle (worth every penny btw!) and a HGX lite doing the pushing..Flow is insane! I built 2 new machines since wwe last spoke, will reach out soon and send you some pics
Hi Phil, The intent of that hotend was to use it on building The 100. I printed up the tool head and was super impressed with Matt's design style. I'm going to check out that HGX. I'd love to see the pictures of your setups.
Best of luck with the builds.
@@vbared haha! i was going to tell you to build one, i love it! it is so fast it is almost comical. I went cpap to get as much weight off the head as possible. you are going to love this---> I am using a 3d printed turbo as the blower for the cpap tube..haha! it has mre presure than the 2 5015's i started with. i made 2 of them one uses a brushed 130 size motor (this is all you will need it cranks) and im working on fitting one of my old r/c heli BL motors . hahaha! i may need to wear safter glasses while running the thing, but the little printer is overkill itself so its completely appropriate lol!. join the discore if you havnt already, great helpful people on there and every mod you can imagine. i also remixed the vzbot static cooling duct to fit in the back with a brushless 120mm blower. (if it wasnt so loud i would get rid of all cooling on the head ) I will shoot you an email with the stls that worked best for me and some pics. ttu soon!
@@philbassi9241 Awesome, Phil, I'm looking forward to seeing them.
Awesome work man! Sorry if it missed it in the video but what speeds are you getting with this setup? Not really looking at max speeds but more towards a balance of reliability and print quality.
Hi Joel, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. Yeah, reliability and quality are the most important to me as well. What hotend and extruder (direct drive or bowden) are you currently using on your Ender 3 V2?
Victor Buddy!!! It is good to see you making videos again. Do you have the files or a link for the X and Y belt tensioners you use. Also I came into possession of an original Ender 3, do you have one in your inventory and any mods to it?
Hi Jeremy, How's it going? Thank you, I'm trying to juggle too many things at once so the video releases have been slow. Sure, linked below are the ones that I modified to maximize X & Y travel distance. You'll need to swap out the top right and lower x-gantry wheel bolts for 5mm X 24mm length ones along with replacing the castle lock nuts for standard M5 nuts that are aren't as thick so you can avoid colliding with the bracket on the right side to the full 270 mm of x-travel. Stay tuned, more videos coming soon.
mega.nz/file/hdFy2SIJ#7qg83FA8952lVfPSgeT3S49aCYb1iQLi9OU1VFGFj6c
hey man awesome videos! any chance you could link the files and parts you used to upgrade your cr-10s prov2?
Hi Richard, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Sure, these are the part I would use if I had to upgrade a CR10S Pro V2 today.
I'm currently using a 4.2.7 control board in it because I was experimenting with Miguel's Professional Firmware and needed a compatible board to do it. I've since switched over all my printers to Mainsail Klipper and would use the full featured board, that I'm running in another dual lead screw machine, linked below to get independent control of the dual lead screws and electronic control of the stepper motor voltages via Klipper of the CR10S Pro V2. Lastly making the bed as light as possible will allow for the fastest print acceleration.
I highly recommend this bulletproof setup.
Manta M5P, CB1 with TMC2209 drivers - shrsl.com/4fskl
CB1 Heatsink - shrsl.com/4fskx
JUSTHANGIN' G10 - amzn.to/3TdyQrf
Micro Swiss NG REVO - amzn.to/3uRxVU0
victorbared.com/products/minimalist-dual-parts-fan-micro-swiss-ng-revo-ducts-for-dual-4010-blowers-single-3010-fan-stl-files-for-diy-3d-printing?ToPasteBoard&
Hardware needed to mount:
M2 X 8mm self-tapping (need 8) - amzn.to/3qulw3o
M3 X 12mm pan head (need 4) - amzn.to/3fqjP0B
M3 X 6mm pan head (need 5) - amzn.to/45NQqpJ
Fans needed:
Compatible blower fans - amzn.to/3tuKfqm
fan 2-pin - amzn.to/3RkUsBC
Best of luck with your mods :)
Direct drive on that could be fun. Something like a sherpa?
The Triangle Labs products are pretty interesting. Thank you for commenting and suggestion.
@vbared e3d revo now offers 60w ceramic heaters. Also do you loose a tiny bit of z travel with the CHC using a volcano nozzle?
Awesome, Thanks for the REVO info. Yes, you'll lose 8.5mm of Z with the longer nozzle. My blowers stick way up so I lose a total of 40mm of z but in my case I don't mind it since I rarely have to print anything that tall and have other printers with larger build volumes for those jobs. I plan on more testing to see if it's even worth having the volcano with the dual 5015s. They blow like crazy, maybe too much and if that's the case I may have to re-think the fan setup. Maybe just one would be enough in a fang style mount.
Interesting… I’m not a “fan” of the look, but I’m t sure seems like it does put out a lot of flow. Do they add much more weight? I’m not an expert by any means, but I’ve read that weight slows things down.
Another informative video! Keep up the good work!
Rob
Hi Rob, It's an ugly spud for sure. If the tool head moved in both x&y, then every extra bit of weight will degrade the max speed. On the Ender 3 V2 the heaviest part is the bed assembly and thus the max speed is limited by it. If the total weight of the tool head doesn't exceed that of the bed then speed shouldn't be impacted. Getting rid of the heavy glass bed and magnetic ones for G10 Garolite reduces the weight significantly while increasing adhesion.
Hi Victor! After reading the comments 3 questions related to modding Ender 5 Pro which currently has a direct drive extruder with Sprite hotend (unimpressed with the Sprite!). (1) Micro Swiss NG REVO or CHC Pro Volcano preference? (2) Noted the REVO minimalist cooling design does not use Noctura quiet fan for hotend cooling. Is the Noctura fan insufficient for cooling the REVO hotend? (3) Lastly, the 5 Pro has a 4.2.7 functioning board. Do you recommend the Manta/CB1 combo versus adding a Raspberry Pi to compliment the 4.2.7?
Hello Makergc3D, Thank you for commenting. Unfortunately, I haven't any experience with a Sprite hotend so I can't say if using it produces better prints than the Micro Swiss NG REVO. The standard NG has a short constrained filament path, the gearing is metal and produces more torque than any other other current extruder tested in 2022. The REVO version of the NG has all the same elements plus a leak proof, tool less quick change nozzle system. It's unique setup creates some design challenges when looking to improve on the subpar cooling solution that's included with it. I wanted to improve not only on its appearance but also reducing overall weight while increasing cooling performance so I designed one from scratch linked below. Since my goal was to keep the design compact I had to forgo the Noctua fan, unfortunately, they don't make a 3010 version. The Ender 5 Pro is an awesome platform to build on and there are corexy conversion kits for it. The Manta M5P+CB1 is a feature packed combo but it is a bit more complicated to setup so you must be willing to deal with some up front head aches to get everything working properly. Klipper just had a major software upgrade that the folks at BigTreeTech are still playing catch up to get all the board features working again. If you go the Manta M5P+CB1 route then make sure to use the CB1 image version 2.3.2 and don't update Klipper to its latest version.
Using the 4.2.7 and Raspberry Pi combo will be easier to get Klipper and all its features working since there is a lot more documentation and community support than the CB1 Manta new kids on the block.
Proper Printing 2022 Extruder Shootout Video - th-cam.com/video/0jlW4ivSDko/w-d-xo.html
victorbared.com/products/minimalist-dual-parts-fan-micro-swiss-ng-revo-ducts-for-dual-4010-blowers-single-3010-fan-stl-files-for-diy-3d-printing?ToPasteBoard&
Enjoy your mods!
Hey, what is the z lead screw bearing mod that i saw on your ender 3 pro? It came into frame for a split second when you were showing your rear spool holder.
Hi Luke. Thanks for commenting. Here you go - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4958234
@@vbared thanks for sending this. I have seen a handful of videos advising against this kind of system. Also, most of the thingiverse comments say the same. What kind of results have you had from it? I'm trying to figure out the best solution to z wobble but don't know where to start.
I've been running a small 7-printer farm since 2019 and use this setup on all my machines without issues. The lead screw should be the same distance away from the vertical frame that it's next to from end to end. I use these shims one side drops into the rail and flat side againts the stepper body linked below (shim with the cutouts faces up and goes between the z-stepper and the aluminum it screws to) (the other goes under the z-stepper) in addition to the bearing holder at the top to get everything aligned. The bearing holder also isn't fixed but rather can move slightly from side to side in the track. The bearing inside also drops in easily so it has a tiny bit of play as well to allow the lead screw to wobble a bit if it isn't perfectly straight. If you want to eliminate the lead screw altogether consider the mod I walk you through doing in my video at the bottom.
mega.nz/file/NM1QzRRQ#dptR8htokKW8keXqKG4UHmAexlYCelv8dTO29SRmwhE
th-cam.com/video/KFzKcfzFXeE/w-d-xo.html
Thank you again for the detailed reply! It sounds like you found a system with some tolerance which is what people said makes a system like this work. I am currently trying to print crown moulding for my dining room and I am printing vertically to make the parts as long as possible and see some banding but nothing too crazy. My main issue is I want to get them printed out as quickly as possible and as I get closer to the top the print quality degrades a bit from the part being pushed around from fast bed movements. Are any of your printers currently running dual z belts? I may look into trying to mod in the future.
@@lukes337 Yes, one of my Ender 3 V2s is running z-belts instead of lead screws and I'm getting ready to install the dual z-belt system but also using dual z-stepper motors so I can get independent control over them. This will allow me to use Klipper's tilt feature to level the gantry right after homing prior to each print. It's pretty cool to watch it move to the right and left probing the bed and making the adjustments until my set tolerance of .0075mm is achieved.
Too much hot-end for that printer... unless you have plans for speeding it up. The neck also looks fragile it lacks the structural pegs like the Slice Mosquito or Rapido... not worth the $ it will bend or break from a single probe crash or even just twisting it a bit too much to remove or put a new nozzle. That's a fail for me sorry. I'll stick with Slice / Phaetus
Hello, Thank you for commenting and opinions. Yeah, the plan is more speed. The CHC Pro Volcano is going to be for a 100 3D printer build, will be ordering a second one for that since I just used it for the Ender 3 V2. It looked so freaking cool I had to mount it up to it. Send me some pics of your setup so I can learn from you. It sounds like you have a Mac Daddy super-fast printer.
Enjoy your evening :)
@@vbared Nah not fast... my custom printer is built for large high quality reliable 24/7 prints (farm work) with minimal and inexpensive maintenance in mind. It's almost finished... it's missing the dual drive for the bed because it's heavy with 10 wheels and a single 6mm belt drops the performance too much so I designed a dual belt system with 2 steppers that will feed of a single driver with a Y cable. I got some pics on Reddit :P
@@hd-be7di Cool, please send a link so I can what you got so far