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Thank you, and Merry Christmas back at you Mark. Yeah, I picked up a second job and have been really busy. I was actually just talking to my wife about quitting it. So hopefully I can get back into making videos. I hope all is well with you and the family.

I’ve never owned a Picoscope, so I can’t really speak on it. I have watched a number of videos with it being used though. With that said, I would say the Pico is probably the best automotive scope out there. I like that they have a waveform reference library that you can access, to compare waveforms. They also have some built in tests, that you can perform. The downside, I would say, of the Pico, is that they are really expensive, and you need to have a separate screen. This can be a pain if you are a mobile mechanic. Where as the Micsig is a stand alone scope and screen. I would think the Micsig is a lot quicker to take out and start using. I have been able to use the Micsig to perform all my scope tests. It’s really a great scope, especially for the price. Also, if you have questions or problems, micsig is quick to respond. I am happy with my Micsig’s. If you were to get a Micsig for automotive, I would get their newer automotive scope, the SATO1004. It has some better features that are useful. I really have to get on the road, so I have to end this here. I hope it helps. I have a few videos on my channel of the newer one that I have. When I say newer, I got it about 2-3 years ago, so they may have an even newer one. Good luck. Take your time, do some research, and choose the best one for your needs.

Sorry, you did answer that.

No problem. Yeah, I’ve done both without an attenuator, and nothing bad happened. I’ve actually done it a couple/few times. Really by mistake, just being in a hurry and not realizing it, until I’m already connected and testing. I would recommend using them, just to be on the safe side. I almost always have. If I remember correctly, the probes that came with my ATO are attenuated 10 or 20:1. Not the automotive bnc probes, but the other ones. I haven’t used them in vehicles in a while. When I bought my first scope, I bought a few Hantek 20:1 attenuators off Amazon, for like $12. I know Pico makes a 10:1, but it’ll cost you more. Haven’t looked in a couple years, so I couldn’t tell you how much. I do know all my other Pico stuff cost a pretty penny.

Thanks for the compliment. They are fun to use, and a lot of videos of people using them. You’ll get there hang of it. Good luck and have fun with it.

It will tell you the minimum and maximum voltages while connected to a circuit.

Hello. Where are you connected on the vehicle? Connect directly to the DLC (data link connector). I have two other videos that show me connected to the CAN BUS. One is called “Playing With the MicSig AT01104 Can Bus Hi &Low”. In this video, I am not talking. You only hear some stupid music that my editing app offers. It does show what pins I am connecting to and some other things using text. The other video gives more info. It is called “Micsig STO1104E Oscilloscope CAN Hi & CAN Low”. In this one I am using a break out box (BOB) that is connected to the DLC, but it’s the same as connecting directly to it. The first video, I am using the ATO (Micsig’s older Automotive Scope); and the second one I am using the Micsig STO, but it’s all the same. Doesn’t matter which scope you are using. Also, I will say this: sometimes the presets are a little off, so you might have to make some adjustments to the time base and or voltage. Scan through those videos, and see if that helps you. If not, let me know. Good luck.

In the second video, towards the end; I did figure out why I was getting the Overload and Error messages. I also showed how and why.

You’re welcome. I would like to make more videos, but I’ve just been really busy lately. Hopefully that will change after a little while. Thanks for watching.

Thank you sir, I appreciate that. Thanks for watching.

Pretty interesting. Thanks for sharing.

No I haven’t. Is it pretty nice? At 500MHz, I bet it is. Just been real busy lately. I’ll try and check it out.

I’m not sure exactly what you’re asking. The automotive presets just set the time base and the voltage (or amperage), and maybe the trigger. So if you click on one; as soon as you start changing either of them, you are basically back to normal mode. I hope this helps. I’m not sure if I understood your question correctly. Let me know if this helped or not. Thanks for watching.

If you’re stuck in the menu, you should be able to just back out. Maybe try pressing the home button, or if you can swipe up from the bottom of the screen, then press back. Or try pressing the automotive preset button again. Unfortunately, I don’t have my scope with me at the moment. I’m just going off of memory. I’ll confirm it tomorrow for you. Also, I just now saw your question. My apologies it took so long to reply.

Also, you should be able to just tap “OK”, and should go back to the oscilloscope screen. If that doesn’t work, you should also just be able to tap towards the right side of the screen, on the oscilloscope screen. If none of that works, I would try resetting it.

The SATO1004 is better than the ATO1004, for a number of reasons. The most obvious is that the SATO has the knobs and buttons on the side that are very convenient. One other thing that I really like about the SATO is on the left of the screen, it shows your voltage or amperage. Also, on the bottom of the screen, it shows the time. Because of this, you don’t have to count the squares. However, this was added in an update, that I just did, so I don’t have a video of it at the moment. You can see more differences in my videos. I checked for the same update for the ATO, but no luck. My apologies that it took so long for an answer. Just been really busy lately. Thanks for watching.

Thank you very much for the information, I really appreciate it 🙂

Thanks for watching, and for the comment. It’s a solid case, my friend. A bit pricey, but I think it’s worth it, to protect your scope. I still use the soft one for my amp clamps, and other probes, that I can’t fit in the hard case. I like to be organized myself. It’s just in my DNA. I’m told it’s because I’m a Virgo. I wonder if you are too. If so, maybe there’s some truth to that. Have a good one.

Sounds good. I don’t know if you know about Alldata DIY. Among a ton of other information, they also supply all the wire diagrams for everything in your vehicle. Using the DIY, you only pay per vehicle. If you decide to get it; before you pay, you can Google alldatadiy discounts. I usually have to try a few before one works, but you can try as many as you want. Just thought I’d share that with you. Good luck, and have fun with your scope.

I’m not sure what you mean by the “screen for the MAF sensor”. I haven’t updated my STO1104E in a while. I say this because the ATO & SATO have the automotive presets for sensors and what not. Did they add that to the STO In an update? Of course you can use the STO for automotive without the presets. All the presets do, is set your time and voltage/ amperage settings for you; and from my experience, they are sometimes off anyway. I’m a little confused about the question, sorry.

@@atomsworkshop195 you’ve answer my question. Thank you. Since the preset screen appeared after the update, I thought perhaps MIGSIG added this feature with an update. Now I know what to do. Thank you again. Btw my first time with this scope.

So you’re saying that after the update, your STO1104E had the automotive presets (maybe in the lower right corner) ? Then they disappeared?

I just checked for an update on my STO1104E, and it says “No new version “. Not sure what happened there with yours, but I am definitely curious.

@@atomsworkshop195 yes atom that’s what happened. Unfortunately, not knowing how to navigate the scope I lost it; can’t find it. Perhaps it was a glitch and it just popped up as an error in the software then it corrected itself. I dunno.

No, the P130A’s are the probes that come with the scope. They are attenuated 20:1 (maybe 10:1 can’t remember at the moment). This makes it safe for the scope. However, you can go on amazon and purchase some attenuators. I bought some Hantek 20:1’s. Pico also makes them, but they cost more. I haven’t had or heard of any issues with the Hantek. If i remember correctly, the Micsig is rated up to 300 volts (much higher than many out there). With that said, I have tested injectors using the Micsig, with 1:1 Pico probes, with no issues. Though I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s better to be safe than sorry. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching, and the question.

Also, the P130A’s are probes that are more for circuit boards and what not. Not really automotive. You can use them for automotive, but I would suggest the 6 foot Pico color coded probes. The Micsig should also come with some red and black automotive probes that will work, but unless they changed then, they are too short for my liken (like 3 feet). They will work till you get better ones though.

Thank you very much

You’re welcome, and thank you for the comment.

I bought most of what you see (other than the scope) a few years ago. What I have is probably getting outdated. With that said, I get stuff from AESWAVE and also Amazon. In the comments of some of my older videos, I list exactly what I have, and I believe how much I paid. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the kind words Mike. I’m glad you got some use out of the video. Cheers from the USA , Texas specifically.

You clicked on the longer review. I also have a shorter one. Also, I’m not seeing the link, in your comment, to the video that you made, showing the correct way to make a review. Oh, you don’t….

Good morning @lupo631. Thanks for the comment, and for watching. It’s funny that you mention that you use your Micsig to work on motorcycles. I have an 07 Honda Goldwing GL1800, and am supposed to be meeting up, as I type this for my weekly group ride; but unfortunately due to expected rain today, it was cancelled 😞. Thanks again for the comment, and Merry Christmas to you too.

Hi Adam, what a quick answer! On the old motorcycles I replace the interrupter ignition system with an optronic ignition system from Newtronic/UK (formerly Piranha). The early ignition systems were soldered onto the circuit board by hand and there were often problems with that. It took me two months of searching to find a cold solder joint on an old Moto Guzzi Mille GT. First I had to find out what the problem was, until I finally unsoldered and checked all the electronic components. I only had a voltmeter from a multimeter available. That's why I hope to find these and similar problems more quickly with an oscilloscope. Problems with generators and alternator regulators should also be able to be found more quickly, at least I hope so. BTW your videos I found as customer videos on the website of Micsig as a reference! What a big compliment by Micsig to you! Greeting from Bremen/Germany! @@atomsworkshop195

@@lupo631 Thanks for the info on the optronic ignition system from Newtronic. You never know when that may come in handy. Good work on finding the issue. I love that feeling of discovering the issue. It makes it all worth it. Most of the bikes I ride with nowadays are Goldwings, that are usually pretty reliable. With that said, they do have issues with their switches and buttons sticking (and there are a lot of them). In fact last week, my wife and I were about 2 hours away from home, and out in the middle of nowhere (in Texas 🇺🇸). We had to stop at a one lane bridge, to wait for on coming traffic; and my bike just died. Each time I pressed the start button, nothing. Of course I start stressing, quickly calculating the insane tow fee I’m about to get stuck with, since all my tools and diag equipment are at home. For whatever reason, I flipped the run switch on and off a few times, and it fired right up. After I got home I did a little research and found this was a common issue in the run switch in earlier models. Supposedly they sold a repair kit with just the inner parts of the switch. Of course I haven’t been able to find it. Only the entire assembly, which they seem to be really proud of, for what they sell it for, lol. I’ve ridden it a couple times since with no issue. I think I’m just gonna open it up and try and clean everything. Hopefully that’ll do. Oh yeah, and of course there is the 2-3 hour job of switching out the air filter.

Oh yes. I have had a similiar problem with my Moto Guzzi after I bought it from the pre-owner. I found out, that the emergency switch (kill-switch) was broken. The cable soldered at the kill-switch was hot and didn't look good. I repaired it, soldered the cable on the joint and thats it. The mechanical parts of the switch looked good, it was just only the cable what so it seems over the years lost contact because of the vibrations. @@atomsworkshop195

Thank you. I did not know that. Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy my Micsig; and I’m sure you will too. Once you learn where everything is and how it works, it’s really easy to use. Thanks for watching.

I tested the power supply when I first bought it, with 2 separate oscilloscopes, and they all matched. That’s good enough for my uses, diagnosing automobile’s, and anything else I will probably come across. I’m not building space shuttles over here.

I see what you mean. Yeah, I’ve been zooming out to have more time on the screen; but as you said, I guess I can’t have the best of both worlds. I looked at the Pico, I just couldn’t justify the price for how much I would use it. So far the Micsig has helped me diagnose everything I’ve come across. Maybe one day I’ll get the Pico. I do have some Pico accessories though. I also really like the ESCOPE Elite from ATS (Automotive Test Solutions). You should check it out. They have a lot of videos also, on TH-cam. Of course it’s pretty pricey also. Thanks again my friend.

Thanks for the info, it’s much appreciated. I know others will appreciate it as well. Thanks for taking the time.

@@atomsworkshop195 No problem. I've been watching and learning about the details of this stuff heavy for a couple of weeks now.. I don't want to pay the money for a pico- but it's really the only one that makes sense.. Every other scope that I found with the same capabilities as the pico-- ends up costing just as much. I'm going to keep researching for now. cheers

Thank you for watching.

You’re welcome, and thank you for watching, and for the kind words.

I’ve been pleased with the Kaiweets too. They also more than honor their warranty. I had an issue with a meter, that was my fault. They not only replaced it, but also sent me one of their small smart meters. No, I’m not on TikTok, just TH-cam.

Thanks for the info, it’s definitely appreciated.

I had a period of time where I couldn’t stop buying multimeters, amp clamps, and other diagnostic equipment lol. I could probably open up a small retail electronics store if I wanted to, 😂

@@atomsworkshop195 I can feel with you, I bought recently 3 new multimeters, but luckily they are dirt cheap here in Thailand. I payed for this one only 12 Dollars incl. shipping, it calls Habotest HT206D here and the other two are Aneng M118A (4 Dollars inlc. shipping)and Aneng A3004 (3 Dollars incl. shipping). All of them i like, the Anengs are significant quicker than the Habotest and accurate too. The Aneng M118A is the easiest I ever had to operate and the pen style A3004 is the fastest to use and they complete each other in current range (A3004 up to 200mA and M118A 20mA plus). I wish you a lot of pleasure with your equipment and yes I'll keep you updated how they hold up : )

That’s good to hear. It’s a great little multimeter. Let us know how the bike turns out. Thanks for watching.

@@atomsworkshop195 The bike works great electrically. Just need to build a secure box for the batteries. It's a 24 volt bike that had a huge heavy nickel metal hydride battery. Needless to say it was pretty useless. Runs great on LiFeP04 (2 miady 7.2ah batteries in series). Peace of mind too. The BMS in the battery trips if a catastrophic overload occurs.

I’m really not sure. With that said, I do know that a lot of different tools are the same tool, sold under different names. I’m not sure if that is the case with this one or not though.

@@atomsworkshop195 thanks bro, very informative review of the tester, just wondering coz i wast trying to search that model in shopee apps basednin Philippines but ther are 3 brand shows up

Thanks for that. I appreciate it. Yeah, it’s definitely possible. If I remember right, back when I brought another amp clamp (just before I bought the Kaiweets), called BSIDE ACM91, there was another brand, but it was identical to the BSIDE. I think there were 3 total. All identical. Not sure which one was the original. I bought the BSIDE, and it turned out to be a good little amp clamp multimeter. I also bought a Lisle fuel line disconnect master kit, and it was identical to the Matco (I believe) set, but half the price. It’s obvious they came off the same production line, the just got a different sticker for the name.

I’m pretty sure they share the ground. All of my leads have a ground, so I always connect the ground for each channel. I think I saw a video of someone using one ground for all the channels though. I don’t have my scope with me at the moment, so I can’t confirm that.

I believe it’s a common ground