Nice video. I picked a SATO 1004 up a few weeks ago. I have been playing with it along side the 1104. It seems to use a little more battery power than the ATO1104. I guess it's the new operating system and extra features. It's not too bad, after three hours it was down to about 30% where the 1104 was about 50%. That was pretty much continuous use. In real world use and with standby, it would probably go all day. Anyway, I'm really happy with it.
Hey Vash, that’s awesome. Yeah, maybe because it’s running all that other stuff. I wish I would’ve mentioned that. Sorry my friend. I’ve been working from my house this past year, so I’m able to just plug it in. I guess I didn’t notice. I’m glad your still happy with it.
Ferrite coil was used for a secondary pickup with two banana plugs attached to a BNC adapter. Also, OMRON 0328 relay from a GM, remove the cover and pull out the resistor, same attachment. Use Pins 86 and 85. Use the relay(s) to measure one or more COPs with BNC adapter(s) on 4 channels. The Ferrite coil can sneak into tight spots. Have many images using these tools. Made these inductors years ago. Also, the relay works great to measure the operation of a GDI pump solenoid by touching it.
Keep the videos coming, just bought this scope after much debating on what to get. You helped me decide for sure. I am HD truck technician with Master ASE truck technician status and L2 advanced level so I say if ASE is in budget go for it. Thanks again and I please continue to with the videos!
@@atomsworkshop195 Atom, That is a long question to answer! I am 40. My family was in trucking as small fleet/owner operators, so I started greasing trucks at probably around third grade. My first real "job" was at a fuel/oil supplier at age of 16 and I did oil changes, greasing, smaller repairs. I joined Army at 18 and was a heavy wheel vehicle mechanic. I was stationed in your state at Ft. Hood in Killeen, TX. Working on a Cummins Big Cam in a M920 lead me to the library early on to seek more information beyond the Army technical manuals. I found a college textbook on diesel engine repair by Sean Brady and was hooked. I ended up buying that latest versions of the textbooks so I could take them with me on deployment to Iraq so I could study and learn. After the Army, I went to college and got an associate degree in Diesel technology. At college I was required to take two ASE tests. I took the first two and passed. So, by the time I graduated college I had passed six tests and with my Army experience I was master certified when I started my first job. I was not a "master", but I put in the effort and met the criteria. I still do not consider myself a master and I continue/strive to learn more every day. I quit listening to music about six months ago and only listen to podcasts. If you get a chance or maybe you do already, I think you would like Sean Tipping, Matt Fanslowe, and the ASOG podcasts. All have had good talks about ASE testing and good talks about all things automotive.
Great to see you make new videos again. Just a note, maybe you know this, but The cop probe negative lead is just to protect The scope, . So I just use it on chassie. But yeah it would make it easier If it was longer. Thanks, and hope to see more of this tool 👍
Hey, how’s it going AutoFocus? Thanks for the knowledge transfer. Quick question. Are you saying I don’t need to even connect the ground on the COP probe? Or that, just because it’s only being used to protect itself, it’s not being used for a precise measurement; that a block or chassis ground is fine? I’m guessing it’s the latter, just wanna be sure. Thanks again for stopping by the channel my friend.
Almost forgot. Do you have the Micsig cop probe? Do you know if Micsig discontinued it? I was looking for a current price for the video, and I couldn’t find it anywhere.
@@atomsworkshop195 Yes, its used for scope protection. So If The spark would jump to probe it goes to ground, and not to scope. So I engine block would be The shortest path If it make sense. I have a paddle from a other company. I would like to get a micsig one Day. 👍
That makes perfect sense. I got it now, lol. Thanks for that. I truly appreciate the info. This is how I learn. Unfortunately, I’ve never had any formal automotive training, so I absorb as much knowledge as I can, from everywhere I can. I did want to get ASE certified, but from what I understand, I have to either be enrolled into a school, or have been working in a shop for like 2 years, before I can take the tests. I don’t see the point of wasting time and money on a school. I went back to school and got a degree in criminal justice and graduated with a 3.9 gpa. I’m not saying that to toot my own horn, but instead, to say, about 95% of everything I learned was at home studying myself. That’s how I taught myself automotive diagnostics. I’ve worked on cars my whole life, so it seemed to come pretty natural to me. I have watched all of Scanner Danners (Paul Danner) videos. I also bought his book. After a few years of that, I started a small mobile auto diag & repair business. Sorry for the autobiography, lol. Just wanted you to know why I really appreciate when people give me advice and or knowledge on here. With all that said, I have taken all the practice tests for ASE certification, and have passed all of them, so I think I’d pass the real tests. I do think it’s bullshit, that I can’t just take the tests and get certified. Thanks again buddy.
Hello Jesse. Thanks for that. I really appreciate the suggestion. That right there is the whole reason I keep this channel going. One person helping the next, and passing it on to the next. Usually if I adjust the waveform brightness, it’ll make it thinner and more crisp. Of course when I try and do it during a video, it didn’t work, lol. I look forward to trying it the way you suggested. Thanks again for the advice, and for visiting the channel.
Man sorry to hear that. Are you saying a firmware update caused the power button not to work? I still haven’t been able to connect my SATO to my WiFi, so I haven’t been able to do any updates. I can connect my ATO & STO to my WiFi with no problem, but not my SATO. Have you emailed Micsig?
Thanks for great video. i just purchased this same scope. i am trying to figure out how to do a relative compression test without an amp clamp was wondering n hoping u could show us.in a future video.how and if its possible.thanks again.i have learned so much from your videos.
Hello Juan, thanks for watching. Yeah, you absolutely can do a relative compression test without an amp clamp. You basically just connect your leads to the battery terminals, invert your signal under the channel menu, then perform a no flood crank (or remove the fuel pump fuse to keep the vehicle from starting), then crank it. I’ll go ahead and make that my next video.
The SATO1004 is better than the ATO1004, for a number of reasons. The most obvious is that the SATO has the knobs and buttons on the side that are very convenient. One other thing that I really like about the SATO is on the left of the screen, it shows your voltage or amperage. Also, on the bottom of the screen, it shows the time. Because of this, you don’t have to count the squares. However, this was added in an update, that I just did, so I don’t have a video of it at the moment. You can see more differences in my videos. I checked for the same update for the ATO, but no luck. My apologies that it took so long for an answer. Just been really busy lately. Thanks for watching.
No, the P130A’s are the probes that come with the scope. They are attenuated 20:1 (maybe 10:1 can’t remember at the moment). This makes it safe for the scope. However, you can go on amazon and purchase some attenuators. I bought some Hantek 20:1’s. Pico also makes them, but they cost more. I haven’t had or heard of any issues with the Hantek. If i remember correctly, the Micsig is rated up to 300 volts (much higher than many out there). With that said, I have tested injectors using the Micsig, with 1:1 Pico probes, with no issues. Though I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s better to be safe than sorry. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching, and the question.
Also, the P130A’s are probes that are more for circuit boards and what not. Not really automotive. You can use them for automotive, but I would suggest the 6 foot Pico color coded probes. The Micsig should also come with some red and black automotive probes that will work, but unless they changed then, they are too short for my liken (like 3 feet). They will work till you get better ones though.
I bought most of what you see (other than the scope) a few years ago. What I have is probably getting outdated. With that said, I get stuff from AESWAVE and also Amazon. In the comments of some of my older videos, I list exactly what I have, and I believe how much I paid. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
You can get an even finer revolution than these... Watch the number at the top that says 2.5 million samples/ second: When you zoom out at first because you want to grab a longer capture--- it also drops your resolution.. which is why your first capture was thicker and not as refined when you zoomed back in. Try to stay zoomed in a far as you can when you take the capture.. that will let you have the best resolution possible when you zoom back in afterwards........ You see, it only has a limited amount of memory-- so when you zoom out-- it automatically drops your resolution to allow you to have a longer capture with that same limited memory-- just by taking less samples per division- now that you have more divisions on the screen. So there's always a balance between getting the best resolution (being zoomed in)-- or having enough time to easily grab the capture (when you're zoomed out)... You can't have both on these cheaper scopes; you have to pick one or the other. More TIME or more Sample Rate... The point is-- just don't zoom out too far when you're getting that first capture-- or the resolution won't be there when you zoom back in. cheers.
I see what you mean. Yeah, I’ve been zooming out to have more time on the screen; but as you said, I guess I can’t have the best of both worlds. I looked at the Pico, I just couldn’t justify the price for how much I would use it. So far the Micsig has helped me diagnose everything I’ve come across. Maybe one day I’ll get the Pico. I do have some Pico accessories though. I also really like the ESCOPE Elite from ATS (Automotive Test Solutions). You should check it out. They have a lot of videos also, on TH-cam. Of course it’s pretty pricey also. Thanks again my friend.
Hey Matt. Yes I do. This is my third Micsig oscilloscope, but the only one I cannot seem to connect to my home Internet. The other two connect just fine. However, I realized that I can connect it at home through the hotspot on my phone. I don’t understand why. I wouldn’t think that it is the scope, since it can connect to hotspot, but I wouldn’t think it’s the Internet since my other two Micsig scopes can connect to it.
I have the setting on my scope where it connects automatically to my Wi-Fi, so it’ll connect, then disconnect and connect, then disconnect, over and over. I tried turning that setting off where I have to connect it each time and seems to connect, but then disconnects right away
I would try and connect with the hotspot if you have that. That way you can check for an update. I did that and now I can label each channel on the left side of the screen. An example would be channel one I can name fuel injector, channel 2 cam sensor, channel 3 crank sensor, etc. I really like that feature. Sometimes when you have all four channels connected, you might forget what is what.
@@atomsworkshop195 ok, thanks. I thought I was losing it. I tried at work but I think it's a firewall issue. I was wondering at home if it's looking for a 2.4ghz vs the 5g I have?
Hey there Lambros, how’s it going? That’s a hard question to answer. As for getting the waveform, I’d say you can get it with either one of them. So if you have the ATO, you don’t “need” the SATO. With that said, it’s like getting the new iPhone, when you already have the previous one. They both do mostly they same thing, but the new one is gonna have more features, more memory, look prettier, etc. I will say, having the buttons & joysticks on the side does make it easier and quicker to maneuver through it. I’d say, if you can afford it, and you use it regularly, get it. Of course, like the iPhone, there will most likely be an even better one in another couple years. Like I said that’s a tuff question to answer. Maybe, find a buyer for your ATO, and use the money from it towards the SATO. I Do know you’ll will really like the SATO. I hope this helps you in your decision my friend. Good luck, and let me and the rest of us know what you decide.
Thanks for the video. I also just purchased this scope after watching your videos. I look forward using it and watching more of your video tutorials.
Thanks for watching. I’m sure you’ll enjoy using it. I just used it to diagnose a wheel speed sensor on my buddy’s Jeep wrangler.
Nice video. I picked a SATO 1004 up a few weeks ago. I have been playing with it along side the 1104. It seems to use a little more battery power than the ATO1104. I guess it's the new operating system and extra features. It's not too bad, after three hours it was down to about 30% where the 1104 was about 50%. That was pretty much continuous use. In real world use and with standby, it would probably go all day. Anyway, I'm really happy with it.
Hey Vash, that’s awesome. Yeah, maybe because it’s running all that other stuff. I wish I would’ve mentioned that. Sorry my friend. I’ve been working from my house this past year, so I’m able to just plug it in. I guess I didn’t notice. I’m glad your still happy with it.
Ferrite coil was used for a secondary pickup with two banana plugs attached to a BNC adapter.
Also, OMRON 0328 relay from a GM, remove the cover and pull out the resistor, same attachment. Use Pins 86 and 85.
Use the relay(s) to measure one or more COPs with BNC adapter(s) on 4 channels.
The Ferrite coil can sneak into tight spots. Have many images using these tools. Made these inductors years ago.
Also, the relay works great to measure the operation of a GDI pump solenoid by touching it.
Pretty interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Keep the videos coming, just bought this scope after much debating on what to get. You helped me decide for sure. I am HD truck technician with Master ASE truck technician status and L2 advanced level so I say if ASE is in budget go for it. Thanks again and I please continue to with the videos!
Thanks for the kind words. I know you’ll enjoy using it, and I’ll keep them coming.
Steve, I had a question. How long did it take you to become a Master Technician?
@@atomsworkshop195
Atom,
That is a long question to answer! I am 40. My family was in trucking as small fleet/owner operators, so I started greasing trucks at probably around third grade. My first real "job" was at a fuel/oil supplier at age of 16 and I did oil changes, greasing, smaller repairs. I joined Army at 18 and was a heavy wheel vehicle mechanic. I was stationed in your state at Ft. Hood in Killeen, TX. Working on a Cummins Big Cam in a M920 lead me to the library early on to seek more information beyond the Army technical manuals. I found a college textbook on diesel engine repair by Sean Brady and was hooked. I ended up buying that latest versions of the textbooks so I could take them with me on deployment to Iraq so I could study and learn. After the Army, I went to college and got an associate degree in Diesel technology. At college I was required to take two ASE tests. I took the first two and passed. So, by the time I graduated college I had passed six tests and with my Army experience I was master certified when I started my first job. I was not a "master", but I put in the effort and met the criteria. I still do not consider myself a master and I continue/strive to learn more every day. I quit listening to music about six months ago and only listen to podcasts. If you get a chance or maybe you do already, I think you would like Sean Tipping, Matt Fanslowe, and the ASOG podcasts. All have had good talks about ASE testing and good talks about all things automotive.
That’s some really nice credentials my friend. I’dl love to do a knowledge dump from your brain to mine, lol. Thank you for your service.
Great to see you make new videos again. Just a note, maybe you know this, but The cop probe negative lead is just to protect The scope, . So I just use it on chassie. But yeah it would make it easier If it was longer. Thanks, and hope to see more of this tool 👍
Hey, how’s it going AutoFocus? Thanks for the knowledge transfer. Quick question. Are you saying I don’t need to even connect the ground on the COP probe? Or that, just because it’s only being used to protect itself, it’s not being used for a precise measurement; that a block or chassis ground is fine? I’m guessing it’s the latter, just wanna be sure. Thanks again for stopping by the channel my friend.
Almost forgot. Do you have the Micsig cop probe? Do you know if Micsig discontinued it? I was looking for a current price for the video, and I couldn’t find it anywhere.
@@atomsworkshop195 Yes, its used for scope protection. So If The spark would jump to probe it goes to ground, and not to scope. So I engine block would be The shortest path If it make sense. I have a paddle from a other company. I would like to get a micsig one Day. 👍
That makes perfect sense. I got it now, lol. Thanks for that. I truly appreciate the info. This is how I learn. Unfortunately, I’ve never had any formal automotive training, so I absorb as much knowledge as I can, from everywhere I can. I did want to get ASE certified, but from what I understand, I have to either be enrolled into a school, or have been working in a shop for like 2 years, before I can take the tests. I don’t see the point of wasting time and money on a school. I went back to school and got a degree in criminal justice and graduated with a 3.9 gpa. I’m not saying that to toot my own horn, but instead, to say, about 95% of everything I learned was at home studying myself. That’s how I taught myself automotive diagnostics. I’ve worked on cars my whole life, so it seemed to come pretty natural to me. I have watched all of Scanner Danners (Paul Danner) videos. I also bought his book. After a few years of that, I started a small mobile auto diag & repair business. Sorry for the autobiography, lol. Just wanted you to know why I really appreciate when people give me advice and or knowledge on here. With all that said, I have taken all the practice tests for ASE certification, and have passed all of them, so I think I’d pass the real tests. I do think it’s bullshit, that I can’t just take the tests and get certified. Thanks again buddy.
Shutting off Persist under display seems to make the waveform sharper.
Hello Jesse. Thanks for that. I really appreciate the suggestion. That right there is the whole reason I keep this channel going. One person helping the next, and passing it on to the next. Usually if I adjust the waveform brightness, it’ll make it thinner and more crisp. Of course when I try and do it during a video, it didn’t work, lol. I look forward to trying it the way you suggested. Thanks again for the advice, and for visiting the channel.
nice job again bought SATO 1004 2 months ago lates firmware update cause power screen button not function at all, hope they fixed other bug soon.
Man sorry to hear that. Are you saying a firmware update caused the power button not to work? I still haven’t been able to connect my SATO to my WiFi, so I haven’t been able to do any updates. I can connect my ATO & STO to my WiFi with no problem, but not my SATO. Have you emailed Micsig?
Thanks for great video. i just purchased this same scope. i am trying to figure out how to do a relative compression test without an amp clamp was wondering n hoping u could show us.in a future video.how and if its possible.thanks again.i have learned so much from your videos.
Hello Juan, thanks for watching. Yeah, you absolutely can do a relative compression test without an amp clamp. You basically just connect your leads to the battery terminals, invert your signal under the channel menu, then perform a no flood crank (or remove the fuel pump fuse to keep the vehicle from starting), then crank it. I’ll go ahead and make that my next video.
I almost forgot. When doing the relative compression test without the amp clamp; make sure to use the AC coupling.
@@atomsworkshop195 thank you once again.
It would be great if they add a built-in volt meter to it.
Ivan, that’s a great idea! Man I would like that.
Nice video. What about the Ato1004 is it any better?
The SATO1004 is better than the ATO1004, for a number of reasons. The most obvious is that the SATO has the knobs and buttons on the side that are very convenient. One other thing that I really like about the SATO is on the left of the screen, it shows your voltage or amperage. Also, on the bottom of the screen, it shows the time. Because of this, you don’t have to count the squares. However, this was added in an update, that I just did, so I don’t have a video of it at the moment. You can see more differences in my videos. I checked for the same update for the ATO, but no luck. My apologies that it took so long for an answer. Just been really busy lately. Thanks for watching.
Thank you very much for the information, I really appreciate it 🙂
Hi Atom on the micsig scope when checking GDI injectors it mentions to use a P130A is that a current clamp
No, the P130A’s are the probes that come with the scope. They are attenuated 20:1 (maybe 10:1 can’t remember at the moment). This makes it safe for the scope. However, you can go on amazon and purchase some attenuators. I bought some Hantek 20:1’s. Pico also makes them, but they cost more. I haven’t had or heard of any issues with the Hantek. If i remember correctly, the Micsig is rated up to 300 volts (much higher than many out there). With that said, I have tested injectors using the Micsig, with 1:1 Pico probes, with no issues. Though I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s better to be safe than sorry. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching, and the question.
Also, the P130A’s are probes that are more for circuit boards and what not. Not really automotive. You can use them for automotive, but I would suggest the 6 foot Pico color coded probes. The Micsig should also come with some red and black automotive probes that will work, but unless they changed then, they are too short for my liken (like 3 feet). They will work till you get better ones though.
Thank you very much
Could you give us the link of the tools you use? Tanks
I bought most of what you see (other than the scope) a few years ago. What I have is probably getting outdated. With that said, I get stuff from AESWAVE and also Amazon. In the comments of some of my older videos, I list exactly what I have, and I believe how much I paid. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
You can get an even finer revolution than these... Watch the number at the top that says 2.5 million samples/ second: When you zoom out at first because you want to grab a longer capture--- it also drops your resolution.. which is why your first capture was thicker and not as refined when you zoomed back in. Try to stay zoomed in a far as you can when you take the capture.. that will let you have the best resolution possible when you zoom back in afterwards........ You see, it only has a limited amount of memory-- so when you zoom out-- it automatically drops your resolution to allow you to have a longer capture with that same limited memory-- just by taking less samples per division- now that you have more divisions on the screen.
So there's always a balance between getting the best resolution (being zoomed in)-- or having enough time to easily grab the capture (when you're zoomed out)... You can't have both on these cheaper scopes; you have to pick one or the other. More TIME or more Sample Rate... The point is-- just don't zoom out too far when you're getting that first capture-- or the resolution won't be there when you zoom back in. cheers.
I see what you mean. Yeah, I’ve been zooming out to have more time on the screen; but as you said, I guess I can’t have the best of both worlds. I looked at the Pico, I just couldn’t justify the price for how much I would use it. So far the Micsig has helped me diagnose everything I’ve come across. Maybe one day I’ll get the Pico. I do have some Pico accessories though. I also really like the ESCOPE Elite from ATS (Automotive Test Solutions). You should check it out. They have a lot of videos also, on TH-cam. Of course it’s pretty pricey also. Thanks again my friend.
I'm having trouble with the internet on my unit. It says network anomaly when I try it. Do you have this problem?
Hey Matt. Yes I do. This is my third Micsig oscilloscope, but the only one I cannot seem to connect to my home Internet. The other two connect just fine. However, I realized that I can connect it at home through the hotspot on my phone. I don’t understand why. I wouldn’t think that it is the scope, since it can connect to hotspot, but I wouldn’t think it’s the Internet since my other two Micsig scopes can connect to it.
I have the setting on my scope where it connects automatically to my Wi-Fi, so it’ll connect, then disconnect and connect, then disconnect, over and over. I tried turning that setting off where I have to connect it each time and seems to connect, but then disconnects right away
I’ve asked my two “tech buddies“, and they are both at a loss
I would try and connect with the hotspot if you have that. That way you can check for an update. I did that and now I can label each channel on the left side of the screen. An example would be channel one I can name fuel injector, channel 2 cam sensor, channel 3 crank sensor, etc. I really like that feature. Sometimes when you have all four channels connected, you might forget what is what.
@@atomsworkshop195 ok, thanks. I thought I was losing it. I tried at work but I think it's a firewall issue. I was wondering at home if it's looking for a 2.4ghz vs the 5g I have?
Do you think is worth to jump from the ATO to the new Sato?Or its pretty much, same thing?
Hey there Lambros, how’s it going? That’s a hard question to answer. As for getting the waveform, I’d say you can get it with either one of them. So if you have the ATO, you don’t “need” the SATO. With that said, it’s like getting the new iPhone, when you already have the previous one. They both do mostly they same thing, but the new one is gonna have more features, more memory, look prettier, etc. I will say, having the buttons & joysticks on the side does make it easier and quicker to maneuver through it. I’d say, if you can afford it, and you use it regularly, get it. Of course, like the iPhone, there will most likely be an even better one in another couple years. Like I said that’s a tuff question to answer. Maybe, find a buyer for your ATO, and use the money from it towards the SATO. I Do know you’ll will really like the SATO. I hope this helps you in your decision my friend. Good luck, and let me and the rest of us know what you decide.
@@atomsworkshop195 Thanks a lot for your answer. I will think it what to do.Defenetely ,buttons and joysticks it's going to be handy.