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Hello. The 2006 to 2021 are fairly the same, but there was little minor improvements made throughout the years to the brakes and a suspension and such. But overall about the same. A 2006 can be worth 2600 if its in really good shape. I wouldn't want to pay much more than that for a 2006 but if its in really good shape it could be worth it

@ is there a way I could contact you? I’d like to send videos and pictures of the bike and hear what you think about. Thanks a lot!

@Must.Excelerate yes. You can email me at upallnight91@hotmail.com

Thanks! I use bolts ranging from 90mm long to about 105mm long. Here is a link to where you can order some of the longer ones I use www.partzilla.com/product/honda/95701-06100-00?ref=91afe81b5e92b5df5b0357fb0e22be205089deb4

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Thanks!👍

Thanks! Did you see the roach in the air box 😆😆😆 Good thing for him he didnt get sucked into the motor when I first started her

Oh yeah, a roach hiding in the air box still has me laughing lol

😅 He thinks the whole back yard is his! LoL

Hello. 40:1 is good. I would just do 43:1 which is 3 ounces of oil per gallon just to keep it simple and run it. The PW smokes a little even when running on the oil injector and as long as its smoking you can be sure you didnt forget to add the oil 😅. But yeah if running premix I would just do 3 ounces per gallon of the Yamalube 2r and she will be good.

@UpAllNight91 appreciate all your help and knowledge

Thanks and right on! Yeah get out there and get it!

Wow 20 years! Thats really cool! Be sure to check the oil pump like I did. After sitting that long it surely could be clogged or not working. Cool little bikes and dam tough too

Thank you my friend!!!

@UpAllNight91 thank you sensay

@@BenSimmons-x5k Yes sir!😅

Hello. I would check the fuel pumps output PSI. Make sure it surely getting to around 50 PSI. If it is then I would check for spark next. And then go from there.

Thanks! I use bolts ranging from 90mm long to about 105mm long. Here is a link to where you can order some of the longer ones I use www.partzilla.com/product/honda/95701-06100-00?ref=91afe81b5e92b5df5b0357fb0e22be205089deb4

@UpAllNight91 You Legend bro aww m8 cheers from Britain

Hello. Yes it was a fast rider and they where running something like 60:1 for the premix. After the rebuild they started running 32:1. The rider was just too fast for such a lean oil ratio.

Thanks! I have a new cleaner a friend turned me onto that works just like simple green but its designed for the under side of semi trucks and trailers so its safe on all kinds of metals. I been meaning to cover that stuff in a video.

@@UpAllNight91 Thanks for the response...I'm always open to trying out different products that may be a better option. I look forward to hearing what this product is!

Thanks! On the KX250 is was working it just wasnt opening up far enough. I bent the rod that goes up the side of the cylinder just a little to get it top be able to open the power valve all the way. But dont try that on the YZ250. Even the slightest bend of that rod and it will snap and break on the YZ. If your governors ball bearings all slipped out on their own I would be suspect of the governor and maybe just try a different one. Maybe pick up a good used one on ebay to try out?

Okay I will order one today thank you for your help once again mate your the sensay tis why I ask your guidance 😊 I shall send some money to your shop for your wisdom

@@BenSimmons-x5k Yes sir! Try a new governor and see if that does the trick. Hopefully it does!

decallab.com/ is where I order them from. Send them a email and ask for a link showing all the different graphics they offer for your make and model. There will be well over 100 different designs in there. From there after you pick one then you can customize it any way you like for no addition cost.

For the OEM bore size, yes. they dont offer a A or B.

Hello. Sure, I'm located in Parrish Fl, are you located close to me?

@ I’m 13hrs away lol.

@@yeetocheeto6247 😆 That would be a heck of a drive lol

@@UpAllNight91 it would and honestly would probably be better off just selling it.

This had about 80 hours on it. It had a hard life though.

@ why would you expect a 2 stroke bottom end to go anywhere from 75-350 but a 250f one to be normally right on 200

@@Seth-s5n The 4 strokes can snap a rod at some point. They can check out perfectly fine with a good rod bearing and all but after so many hours of usage and if ran to hard to long they just snap the rod out of no where with no warning. If its just a trail bike or riden easy then they can go over 200 hours easy but if used on the track by more skilled riders then every 200 hours a new crank should be installed to keep things safe. On the other hand on a 2 stroke they dont break rods on their own unless something else goes out first like a lower rod bearing. But otherwise they dont break rods. So if the lower rod bearing is in good shape and the left and right play measure out good and there is no up and down play its safe to keep running them no matter the hours.

@ ohhh but on ones that don’t break rods they could also last 350 hours ??

The 4 strokes

Yes Sir! A new TPS surely fixed this YZ250f right up and is still doing good today.

Hello. If they are still within spec they will be fine and you wont notice a difference if you dig in and set them to dead middle of the range. It wont improve the starting up. When they begin to not start up as fast as they once did I often find two things that can cause this. A battery that is aged. When these lithium batteries age they do become weaker. They will still turn over fine but because the battery is a little weaker and since most the power is going to the starter motor there is less power available for the spark and the fuel pump, causing delayed or lazy starting. Another thing that causes this is when the bikes piston is aged and could used a new top end, if you do a top end be sure to include a timing chain. A new chain will advance the cam timing back to where it needs to be which also helps starting.

@ hey thank you. New yuasa stock battery. I’ll think about top end. Thank you!!!!!

@@jamesbarber6165 Yes Sir!

Hello. You can email me at upallnight91@hotmail.com

Not sure, but I imagine if they did they would note they usually make a little more HP with the spacer

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Your welcome!. Did you find the video where I repaired the transmission on a 450SXF? When you open the motor to look for the damage I would also check the case real good around the sprocket area for cracks and stuff.

Your welcome. Oh I see you did find the trans video lol.

@UpAllNight91 yea m8,,, I was so glad to find it with what happened mid race lol so handy cheers buddy. Thankfully end of season so back ripping soon lol

@@stuartnicholson8298 Right on! 👍

Yes, although by a very small amount.

@ thanks

@@Darth_Back_Staber- Your welcome!

Yes sir. I should have known lol. Much like the hydraulic clutch in a car.

@@UpAllNight91 I had a boss when I was getting out of high school that would get all irritable if you didn't have your terminology right, but at least he explained why things were the way they were! Now it drives me nuts when people call bolts screws and other stupid little things that don't really matter 😂

@@evandrewmartinez1 I feel ya. Guess we all got hung ups lol. I surely have a few

Thanks! Yeah Beavis is a trip, hes out there right now making sure we are all awake lol

Hello. Can you email me a pic at upallnight91@hotmail.com I can see what hole your talking about.

Hello. I would start by hooking up the tuner app and checking for codes. And then check the fuel pressure. I have seen low fuel pressure cause them to start but die shortly afterwards.

Parrish Florida

Thanks!

Your welcome!

lol. Surely makes it quick if you gotta slip a bleed in between two moto's

Your welcome!👍

Yes sir!

Well that makes sense. I gotta say duh to myself though cause I probably should have known that lol. Thanks!

Right! I know what you mean. My older 96 mustang had a rear bleeder valve that was stuck. I couldn't bleed it. I eventually had to replace that caliper. I will be bleeding the brakes on my F-150 today, fingers crossed 🤣

@@UpAllNight91 Good luck, I get anxiety and usually hit it with PB Blaster the day before, and then right before the job. Some say big deal, just replace the caliper if the screw breaks. Well when the bleeder is a tough nut to crack, the brake line to the caliper uasually is siezed on too. Then you end up having to bend in a new line or replace the caliper hose. All fun and good, but when you need it to work right now the blood pressure spikes up old 70's 2 stoke power band. LOL! If you crack the bleeder and just let gravity drain the fluid out (without letting the master get too low) and wait until the fluid runs clear, then close the bleeder, it's a good way to change out the brake fluid. Just start furthest from master and work your way in to the front. I used DOT 5.1, not to be a snob, but they say it attracts moisture a a slower rate than DOT 3, allowing for longer life. Then just start the engine and pump the brakes, add fluid as needed and done. Worked like a charm, and easier than the two people press brake, close bleeder method. You probably know this stuff but wanted to add to the discussion for anyone paying attention.....Bulller...?.....Buller?

@@kenitsanoutragecandia3939 Gravity bleeding works great! A old friend of mine named Carl who got me into auto mechanics when I was only 16 showed me this years ago. I found it to work great as I'm usually by myself. Luckily all the bleeder valves opened easy on the F-150. I was able to swap all that fluid out. This truck has 350K miles all on the original motor and transmission and still runs as good as the day I got her.

@@UpAllNight91 Good news! Love it when a plan comes together. Congrats on the 350K!

@@kenitsanoutragecandia3939 For sure! Changed out the trans fluid too. Everything looked good in there. I do need to change out the intake manifold as it developed a little tiny coolant seep on one of the corners. I have a new intake here already I just gotta pick a day to knock it out. But shes still driveable as is as it hardly looses any coolant, just more of a wet spot on that side of the intake and its been like that for a year or so. Waiting for the cooler days of winter to do that job lol

Thanks Joel!

Yup!

Yes she is! I checked the valves on it and when I removed the cover I was surprised how fresh the motor looked on the inside. It also sounds as good and tight as a new bike. The owner just bought it used and I think he found a good one for a 2008.

@ I could immediately tell that things fresh for an 08. Nice vid

@@Palmdalebandit_ She sounds tight too. I was surprised, didnt expect a 2008 to sound that good.

lol, surely fast. Works great at the track if you gotta slip a bleeding in between motos or a race.

I dont think so. I mean it can sometimes have that hydraulic damper sound but what I do is listen to the inner chamber while compressing it before installing it. If it sounds good, then I know thats good. Once the fork is together usually all I hear is springs sliding across the inside of the tubes (on newer springs, olders springs get polished where that contact the tubes and can become silent after breaking in.)

I think that’s what it is. Probably the damper hydraulic sound and yes, damper sounded good after was done followed your video step-by-step although mine was a lot more of a pain in the ass to push that cartridge in after filling with fluid lol

@ dang I’m gonna have to do the rear shock a different way. I tried bleeding it the way you show in the video twisting a lot. It pushes that piston right up and throws shock fluid all over lol

@@justinbs19 Oh yeah that can happen. I have had to use a flat head to pray against the seal to keep it from sliding up on a few bikes. Is this a low hour bike?

@@UpAllNight91 70hrs

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Oh yeah bummer. If it keeps doing that you may have to get in to see whats going on. Could also be one of the gears that spin freely on its shaft, they can whine if they run dry on oil and or the bushing under the gear starts getting stuck on the shaft.