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Not an option for most cars. Some older cars have the option to make it quieter but I didn’t know there were cars out there that had the option to turn it off. Does your car have that? Which model do you have and what country are you in?

@@notinthemanual nvm you’re right I think. It looks like the switch is not there for teslas manufactured after November 2021. That is really stupid if I’m to give my 2 cents

@@Yixuidhalbh Haha. I thought there was some new feature I didn’t know about. I haven’t fitted the PWS to my new car and it was built just before they started fitting them at the factory.

@@notinthemanual yea man I really wish they put a toggle switch at least so you’re not forced to deal with that annoying electronic humming but it is what it is. It’s not that bad when you’re inside the car at least

@@Yixuidhalbh I agree. The only issue I had was leaving the house early in the morning, it would wake everyone up.

Hi Rex. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I try and include a lesson in every video I do and keep things balanced, even for product reviews. I was a technical trainer for many years and can't break the habit. As far as owning a Tesla goes, I would never tell people what car they should own as its a personal preference, petrol, EV, Tesla or non-Tesla. Elon barely makes the news outside of the US. The media over there have an obsession with him. I definitely didn't buy a Tesla because of Elon. When I got my first Tesla I didnt even know much about him. The trouble is Tesla do the EV thing so much better than everyone else which offsets some of Elon's weirdness. They offer the best value for money by a very big margin. Its a shame that the US built cars are not as well built as the Shanghai cars. I've owned a 3 and now a Y. No panel gaps to be found and nothing rattling loose. Just a great overall ownership experience. We dont have an many choices for Evs here in Australia though. The new Chevy EVs look pretty good.

Forward is fine as it’s just like a white noise. It’s just that horrible reverse sound. I have now traded this car for a Model Y last August and I haven’t fitted a PWS to my new car yet for the same reason. Here in Australia they will become a legal requirement at some stage so I’ll resist as long as I can.

I agree and so glad they are now active after so many years!

Hi Peter. I only show 96 cells in my app too. ScanMyTesla doesn't show all of the individual cells and is not perfect in this regard. The CATL 55kWh LFP battery has 106 cells. They are grouped into four modules. Two with 25 cells and two with 28 cells. The cell config designation is 106s1p. There have been a few teardowns done on these batteries so the 106 cell count is accurate for the 55kWh pack. The 60kWh CATL LFP pack has 108 cells.

I forgot to mention that it is 106 cells for the 55kWh battery that was in my Model 3 in this video. I am not sure which year model you have but the newer 60kWh batteries do have 108 cells in a 4 module configuration of 2 x 26s & 2 x 28s. Sorry I only remembered this after I had replied. I will also edit my response above to be more clear about this.

Thanks for the reply Matt. Glad to know it's not just mine. I was thinking if I had a cell that was sick it would be possible to miss which one given 12 aren't displaying. I have the 2023 M3 with the 60kw/hr battery. Currently at 33k. It charges to 59.9 kw/hr - down from 61 when new.

@@peter9117 Sounds like you still have a healthy pack. I’m almost at 20k with my new Model Y I got last August. I have around 59kWh at 100% so your battery is fairing better than mine. I reluctantly traded in my M3 from this vid. My brother in law still has his 55kWh 2021 M3 and it’s so nice to drive with the higher torque motor. I miss that car but love the extra space in the Y.

@@notinthemanual Yes, I drove that Unicorn model as a rental car which totally sold me on a Tesla. Unfortunately I got the non performance motor. I'm wondering if Tesla are using a less powerful motor to reduce higher loads on the LFP for longevity or just to stop passenger car sickness in their bread and butter model 🤔

Glad to help and thanks for the sub! You will love the car 😊

Yes. A little bit of heat using a hair dryer and some fishing line to cut the tape it can be done without harming the paint.

Yes you can but you won’t get the full charging speed as the USB C only uses 5V not 9V or 12V like the power adapter can give. It’s been a long time since I made this video but hopefully I mentioned that.

Hey Sensei. I’ll think about it again. For some reason it still doesn’t seem right to do. I don’t really post regular content. Just as I get time.

@@notinthemanual i personally dont think extra work is linked to membership offering, the AU$1.49 a month is for what you normally/currently do (95 videos, 410,000 total views in 2 years) at current workload/pace. if you offered a $5 a month then yes maybe you need to upload more :)

@@Sensei_88_ Cheers for the suggestion. I’ll do some research and see what’s in it for the members. I’m still not doing this to make a living which is why I’m not taking on anymore paid reviews unless there is a big benefit for my viewers. I am very happy with where the channel is at and I really enjoy helping people out in the comments but overall I still feel like an amateur. I’m not fishing for anything just being honest with you.

I don’t think it’s very common. There are some small gore-tex flaps to allow moisture to exit. Otherwise they are sealed. I have a full headlight teardown video and I think you can also get access behind the control board where the wiring harness pokes through.

@@notinthemanual Thanks! Do you know where I are the access points of those two flaps?Just wonder if I can reach the debris through there!Thanks!

@@arthurcheng532 I made a short on it below. You might have to stick the flap back down afterwards. I can’t remember how many of these there were. th-cam.com/users/shortsR4l823mjttg?si=2-KBQUa92-d55eJ_

It’s hard to say based off the info you have given above. I would definitely be confident of my Model Y being able to do that. I don’t know anything about the Torres EvX. I’d factor in around 10% degradation over that time period. Based on the specs I was able to find it looks like real world range would be more like 350km and maybe closer to 250-300km at motorway speeds average. I think what you have asked for would be achievable. It has a very good warranty period, much better than Tesla. I haven’t watched any real world tests or reviews to see if published consumption is realistic.

Hi Eric. This has always been the recommendation from Tesla for LFP batteries. Its hard to say exactly what was happening with your car but at a supercharger the last 1% can take a very long time depending how the earlier part of your charging curve went. This is most likely the SOC calibration being a bit out and not matching the individual cell voltages. The car will charge at a lower rate to top off the lower voltage cells and it needs to do this carefully so it doesnt overcharge the higher voltage cells. If you could view ScanMyTesla you would see a large cell imbalance just as the charge is finishing. Total battery voltage often goes over 400V which is high for LFP. It will then settle down as the higher voltage cells relax and slowly discharge the excess voltage. My understanding is the DC-DC power converter is used for this process but any slow voltage discharge would have the same effect. After an hour of rest you will see the overall voltage drop to about 365V and the cell imbalance drop to around 4mV. This is a totally normal process that takes longer depending how out of calibration the BMS is. You often wont see this delay with the last 1% on lower power chargers as they tend to top the cells up more evenly. LFP is also more prone to imbalance and BMS calibration issues which would explain the difference with your ID4. Teslas BMS are much more advanced than others. A good thing to do for range and SOC estimate accuracy is to let your battery drain down to 10-20% and rest for an hour or so. Then you can AC charge back to 100% which will calibrate your cars BMS. This will often open up a few more kWh of capacity if it hasnt been done for a while.

I highly recommend using the MagBak case as it has extra magnets to make it more secure in the mount. I did some testing using my MagSafe case and it wasn’t as strong as the MagBak case. I don’t remember it falling off though. I did this video a long time ago. I’ve transferred the mount across to my Model Y. I’ll throw my old MagSafe case on and check it out. My MagBak case is still going strong and has outlasted any other case I’ve owned. I’d recommend it just for that. I’ve dropped my phone many times and it provides great protection.

I drove around for a day with my iPhone 14pro clipped directly to the mount without a case. This is just relying on the MagSafe built into the phone. It isn’t a strong as the MagBak case but it didn’t fall off when driving over speed bumps or large potholes. It did rotate slightly from vertical by a few degrees and was harder to clip onto the mount with a weaker magnetic force. I still think it is MagSafe compatible but only just and definitely not a strong as a dedicated MagSafe mount. I highly recommend the MagBak case with this mount so the phone is more secure even though mine did not fall off. I think if you only had a MagSafe case and not a MagSafe phone then it could be weaker. I can’t replicate this as all our phones are MagSafe.

They will be able to be removed without damage to the mirror if you are careful and take it slowly. Some low heat and a plastic pry tool to slowly work along the tape and separate it from the mirror cover should work. I haven’t had any issues with wifi since fitting them. I am not sure how the mirror covers would affect wifi. All of the wireless antennas are above the windscreen except for some bluetooth modules around the perimeter of the car.

It’s up to you. You don’t have to do it unless you want a consistent drive feel in cold weather. If you’re happy to have some reduced regen braking when the battery is cold (more important with LFP) then don’t worry about it. I only do it for comfort and consistent driving in winter. For summer my battery is often sitting at 25deg without precon. I only do it to cool the cabin down in summer. Then for long trips it is good to precon while plugged in when cold. This maximises efficiency because the car doesn’t need to waste energy from the battery to heat everything up. This would only be a small difference unless it’s super cold.

I agree. This was just a graph pulled out of TeslaFi. I’ll see if I can pull the raw data and graph it differently next time.

Why?

This is a 1000000km battery. Not 800000km.

Thanks for letting us know. We don’t have any of those here in Australia. No S or X here for many years.

Yes it just depends where your car is when it tries to re-engage. Just like if you engage autopilot if you are off centre slightly.

@@notinthemanual no, I’m talking about, it will be driving on non highways for a while in FSD and swerves cause it can’t decide if it wants to go over or not

@@ReelDeckGaming Oh you’re talking about auto lane change. I find it works perfectly 90% of the time. The times it doesn’t, the lane markings are clear. We don’t have FSD here but for that you would need it to be getting the lane changes correct 100%.

Haha. This hoodie will not be making an appearance again! The only soccer/football player I can name would be David Beckham. I only just found out there are 2 teams in Manchester. It’s been educational wearing this in public 😜

No. Just AMD Ryzen processor.

Hi Andy. I’ve been using the wiper controls a lot as we have a had a very wet week here. They take a bit of getting used to but it’s definitely easier to adjust the manual speed without glancing at the screen. Auto setting works well for me during the day but horrible at night.

I’d say UK will get it before us. We are a very small market with some strict design rules.

Let me guess your a soccer fan 😜

My feeling is they will try and just undercut the model Y like in Europe.

Am I in need of an update 😂

Thanks Jason. I didn’t see that one. I did read something about the on screen gear selection being optimised but I couldn’t find the article again.

@@notinthemanualthey made the onscreen selector smaller and I do like that. But they removed the N option. So now you have to use the buttons above the rear view mirror. I know it’s not something that most use often. But my driveway requires me to use it daily.

@@exaturbo Maybe the S3XY buttons would be of use in your situation.

Thanks. I agree with your comments on AP. It has had very little improvement lately. Auto lane change has been pretty bad. It’s scary when it aborts. I know I’ve said it before but auto lane change with the old AP and radar worked perfectly. The car can do much better.