I just stumbled across your channel. Absolutely love the info you give. Subscribed 😄 I get my Y in Canberra in a week or two. HaloBlk were already in my radar. This is the perfect vid for me
Thank you Matt for all the outstanding information you provide and keeping us Tesla owners educated and knowledgeable while at the same facilitating understanding of the information you share! Alas, I'm in the midst of a debacle and you are one of the most knowledgeable persons I know regarding Tesla matters on TH-cam. Believe me, I cannot find any information in the manual regarding my situation. May I ask you a question(s)?
@@notinthemanual I have a '22 M3P with approximately 28,968km and absolutely love the car! The car comes with a "Premium" sound system which sounds alright but the sound fidelity doesn't sound premium in my opinion. I'm a bit of an audiophile and knew the sound could be improved without too much difficulty or hampering of the OEM Tesla design. After I zeroed out the audio EQ settings and disconnected the battery under the bonnet and under the right back seat, I made some quick and simple changes by swapping out some of the speakers: 3 front dash speakers, the 2 front door woofers, and the 8" subwoofer. I don't listen to my music at high volume levels so I decided to use the stock Tesla amp which should have ample wattage. Well, ample as long as I keep the speakers within the same specifications as the Tesla OEM speakers. The 3 front dash speakers are rated at 3 ohms/33W watts, door woofers are 4 ohms/80W, and subwoofer is DVC with each voice coil rated at 4ohms/80W. I met all the aforementioned requisites except for the subwoofer which was a DVC rated at 2 ohms/250W rms. For the subwoofer I made a wire jumper for the +/- terminals so the coils would be wired in series resulting in a rating of the necessary 4 ohms. Having an injured dominant hand, things went slowly and before I realized the time, the sun was setting! I was able to complete the speaker install and reaffixed the trunk weatherstripping using the illumination of the exterior house lights. I had to get it done as I was getting surgery on my dominant hand in 35 hours! I reconnected the battery connections under the bonnet and back seat and did a very minimal volume audio testing using Spotify. All speakers had sound and checked good! I buttoned things up and decided to have some dinner. After dinner I decided to drive to a nearby market and do some sound and EQ adjustment settings and get things 'dialed in' without the chance of disturbing/waking up my neighbors. I changed the source on the sound system to Bluetooth in order to listen to sound files from my phone. I increased volume to approximately 53% and it sounded absolutely amazing!! For about 20 seconds then I lost 87% of the sound. The 3 dashboard speakers are the only speakers working now (which I believe are wired to a secondary amplifier). To make a long story short (too late, I know), it seems I have blown some channels on the Tesla amplifier in the trunk. I am confident in saying this because I found the subwoofer wired terminal jumper I made in my trunk under my scattered tools! In my haste, I neglected to put the jumper on the subwoofer driver which means my subwoofer was operating with an impedance of 2 ohms rather than 4 ohms. My front door woofers & tweeters, upper 'A' pillar immersion tweeters, rear door speakers, rear deck speakers, and subwoofer are not producing any sound. I also don't have functionality from the mic as it doesn't recognize my voice/anything... So I guess I have lost the mic in the headliner as well. If I remember correctly, the mic in the headliner is Bluetooth. I have checked the service menu and the only alerts that I am getting are for my rear defroster. I wondered why it hadn't been working very well for the past couple years. There is nothing else in the service menu that I can find regarding the sound system to indicate any kind of fault. I got the part number off of my amplifier (1079748-00-F) and purchased another one with the same exact part number (with a different serial number, of course) that came from a totaled Model 3 from a parts warehouse (this part warehouse has impeccable credentials). I am awaiting the new subwoofer driver that will not require any special wiring to meet the required Tesla specifications. So, in a quite large nutshell, there is my situation / debacle. Here are my questions: Will I need to do any kind of firmware reset or new part installation procedure in order to make this new amplifier have full functionality in my car or will it be just a basic plug-and-play replacement? After I install this fully functional amplifier replacement, will it enable my Bluetooth mic and work again? I am at an absolute loss and I appreciate any help, information, or guidance! Best regards, Kirk
@@OptimisticPrime2357 Hi Kirk. Yes that certainly sounds like an adventure. I agree the premium audio is far from perfect but it is good enough for me. I have not had an experience replacing these components in the Tesla so I would need to do some research and come back to you. Soldering can be difficult on speaker exisiting terminals and it can be easy to create a dry solder joint. It really depends how the amp communicates with the media control unit. It may not tell the MCU about a fault. I’ll see what I can find.
@@OptimisticPrime2357 I looked through the service manual and there is no mention of any firmware adjustments when replacing the amp which means replacing it with another one of the same part number would not be too difficult. As for the headliner unit with the microphone it may be a different story. If it doesn’t work after you install the new amp you can try and reinstall the firmware in service mode to see if this fixes the issue. In the service manual it says to reinstall firmware if this headliner unit is replaced. The service manual does not mention if this headliner unit is communicating with the amplifier. Is it possible that you have disturbed a plug while accessing the A pillar tweeters?
After reading your notes again I see that you didn’t actually attach the jumper wire. I thought it might have fallen off which is why I mentioned the soldering. I can also see now that the a-pillar tweeters were not touched. I can’t explain why the headliner unit is not functioning. Hopefully the amp will correct this somehow. The firmware reinstall procedure might cause this to reset and work. The Tesla service manual is freely available on the Tesla service website. service.tesla.com you then login with your Tesla account and get a free subscription to the basic service package. You will then have access to the non-HV non-safety service manuals.
They will be able to be removed without damage to the mirror if you are careful and take it slowly. Some low heat and a plastic pry tool to slowly work along the tape and separate it from the mirror cover should work. I haven’t had any issues with wifi since fitting them. I am not sure how the mirror covers would affect wifi. All of the wireless antennas are above the windscreen except for some bluetooth modules around the perimeter of the car.
I just stumbled across your channel. Absolutely love the info you give. Subscribed 😄
I get my Y in Canberra in a week or two. HaloBlk were already in my radar. This is the perfect vid for me
Glad to help and thanks for the sub! You will love the car 😊
Thank you Matt for all the outstanding information you provide and keeping us Tesla owners educated and knowledgeable while at the same facilitating understanding of the information you share!
Alas, I'm in the midst of a debacle and you are one of the most knowledgeable persons I know regarding Tesla matters on TH-cam. Believe me, I cannot find any information in the manual regarding my situation. May I ask you a question(s)?
No problem
@@notinthemanual I have a '22 M3P with approximately 28,968km and absolutely love the car! The car comes with a "Premium" sound system which sounds alright but the sound fidelity doesn't sound premium in my opinion. I'm a bit of an audiophile and knew the sound could be improved without too much difficulty or hampering of the OEM Tesla design.
After I zeroed out the audio EQ settings and disconnected the battery under the bonnet and under the right back seat, I made some quick and simple changes by swapping out some of the speakers: 3 front dash speakers, the 2 front door woofers, and the 8" subwoofer. I don't listen to my music at high volume levels so I decided to use the stock Tesla amp which should have ample wattage. Well, ample as long as I keep the speakers within the same specifications as the Tesla OEM speakers.
The 3 front dash speakers are rated at 3 ohms/33W watts, door woofers are 4 ohms/80W, and subwoofer is DVC with each voice coil rated at 4ohms/80W. I met all the aforementioned requisites except for the subwoofer which was a DVC rated at 2 ohms/250W rms. For the subwoofer I made a wire jumper for the +/- terminals so the coils would be wired in series resulting in a rating of the necessary 4 ohms.
Having an injured dominant hand, things went slowly and before I realized the time, the sun was setting!
I was able to complete the speaker install and reaffixed the trunk weatherstripping using the illumination of the exterior house lights. I had to get it done as I was getting surgery on my dominant hand in 35 hours!
I reconnected the battery connections under the bonnet and back seat and did a very minimal volume audio testing using Spotify. All speakers had sound and checked good! I buttoned things up and decided to have some dinner.
After dinner I decided to drive to a nearby market and do some sound and EQ adjustment settings and get things 'dialed in' without the chance of disturbing/waking up my neighbors. I changed the source on the sound system to Bluetooth in order to listen to sound files from my phone. I increased volume to approximately 53% and it sounded absolutely amazing!! For about 20 seconds then I lost 87% of the sound. The 3 dashboard speakers are the only speakers working now (which I believe are wired to a secondary amplifier). To make a long story short (too late, I know), it seems I have blown some channels on the Tesla amplifier in the trunk. I am confident in saying this because I found the subwoofer wired terminal jumper I made in my trunk under my scattered tools! In my haste, I neglected to put the jumper on the subwoofer driver which means my subwoofer was operating with an impedance of 2 ohms rather than 4 ohms. My front door woofers & tweeters, upper 'A' pillar immersion tweeters, rear door speakers, rear deck speakers, and subwoofer are not producing any sound. I also don't have functionality from the mic as it doesn't recognize my voice/anything... So I guess I have lost the mic in the headliner as well. If I remember correctly, the mic in the headliner is Bluetooth. I have checked the service menu and the only alerts that I am getting are for my rear defroster. I wondered why it hadn't been working very well for the past couple years. There is nothing else in the service menu that I can find regarding the sound system to indicate any kind of fault.
I got the part number off of my amplifier (1079748-00-F) and purchased another one with the same exact part number (with a different serial number, of course) that came from a totaled Model 3 from a parts warehouse (this part warehouse has impeccable credentials).
I am awaiting the new subwoofer driver that will not require any special wiring to meet the required Tesla specifications.
So, in a quite large nutshell, there is my situation / debacle.
Here are my questions:
Will I need to do any kind of firmware reset or new part installation procedure in order to make this new amplifier have full functionality in my car or will it be just a basic plug-and-play replacement?
After I install this fully functional amplifier replacement, will it enable my Bluetooth mic and work again?
I am at an absolute loss and I appreciate any help, information, or guidance!
Best regards,
Kirk
@@OptimisticPrime2357 Hi Kirk. Yes that certainly sounds like an adventure. I agree the premium audio is far from perfect but it is good enough for me. I have not had an experience replacing these components in the Tesla so I would need to do some research and come back to you. Soldering can be difficult on speaker exisiting terminals and it can be easy to create a dry solder joint. It really depends how the amp communicates with the media control unit. It may not tell the MCU about a fault. I’ll see what I can find.
@@OptimisticPrime2357 I looked through the service manual and there is no mention of any firmware adjustments when replacing the amp which means replacing it with another one of the same part number would not be too difficult. As for the headliner unit with the microphone it may be a different story. If it doesn’t work after you install the new amp you can try and reinstall the firmware in service mode to see if this fixes the issue. In the service manual it says to reinstall firmware if this headliner unit is replaced. The service manual does not mention if this headliner unit is communicating with the amplifier. Is it possible that you have disturbed a plug while accessing the A pillar tweeters?
After reading your notes again I see that you didn’t actually attach the jumper wire. I thought it might have fallen off which is why I mentioned the soldering. I can also see now that the a-pillar tweeters were not touched. I can’t explain why the headliner unit is not functioning. Hopefully the amp will correct this somehow. The firmware reinstall procedure might cause this to reset and work. The Tesla service manual is freely available on the Tesla service website. service.tesla.com you then login with your Tesla account and get a free subscription to the basic service package. You will then have access to the non-HV non-safety service manuals.
Unfortunately they do not have the spoiler for the new highland
That’s strange. I didn’t notice that. I’ll ask and see if they are working on it.
Yet* they said they were working on one
@@MrEddyedr any different to the old model 3 ? Like the rear bit
@@Arashiii87 I asked HaloBlk au and they said ETA is July/August for the Highland spoiler.
how does the removal work if I want to after some time?
and whether there are problems with the Wi-Fi signal after you put the covers on
They will be able to be removed without damage to the mirror if you are careful and take it slowly. Some low heat and a plastic pry tool to slowly work along the tape and separate it from the mirror cover should work. I haven’t had any issues with wifi since fitting them. I am not sure how the mirror covers would affect wifi. All of the wireless antennas are above the windscreen except for some bluetooth modules around the perimeter of the car.