Tyre rotation. When should you do it and why! My Tesla Model Y RWD tyre wear after 10000km.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- Hi Guys
I have been waiting to hit the 10000km mark for a while so I could make this video. I have been very impressed with the 20" wheels I optioned for this car. The Michelin Pilot Sport EV tyres have been a great tyre for comfort, grip, noise and performance. With the traction these tyres have I didn't expect them to wear very well. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I don't baby the car and enjoy the performance that an EV gives. This video isnt really a DIY one but more to explain why tyre rotation is important and when you should do it.
Cheers
Matt
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
4:42 Setting up to rotate the tyres
7:26 Equipment
9:45 Jacking up the car and removing tyres
10:07 General look over the tyres
14:25 Measuring the tread depth
17:30 Using a 20 cent piece to check tread
18:30 Tread wear indicators
19:20 How to find what rear power unit you have
20:45 Parking brake and rear caliper
22:10 What tyres do I have?
23:50 Some damage to my sidewalls
24:12 MagBak RimCase
24:34 Putting the wheels back on
24:51 Caution with wheel nuts
26:06 Reseting your tyre mileage
27:10 Final checks with wheels
28:00 Video summary
HASHTAGS
#teslamodel3 #tesla #teslamodely #ev #accessories #electricvehicle #teslainc #car #notinthemanual #teslaaccessories #tyres #tyresafety #tires #tireservice
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![This Is Why You Should Fit OE Tires To Your Car! [Michelin Pilot Sport 4S vs 4S*]](/img/n.gif)
I really enjoyed and agree to every content of this video definitely one of jy fav. Many thanks for safety reminders.
Cheers Daniel. Good to hear from you and thanks for watching.
Another top notch video Matt, well done! I'm happy to see now what's involved in rotating tyres on a Tesla yourself, and the steps and precautions you took. I wasn't going to have my MY tyres rotated until about 20,000km but I'm glad I did now (~13,000km). Tesla did it for approx $50 while they had it in their workshop fixing a problem with the drivers seat under warranty, so I think that was more than worth the money. I should also invest in a tyre depth gauge just to keep an eye on the wear myself.
Cheers John. Yes it’s definitely worth doing. I probably drive my car a bit harder than I should but the torque at take off is addictive and you get used to it. Maybe I need to use chill mode 😜
@@notinthemanuali do chill mode 99% of time
@@Dan007LoveKhmerMusic That’s probably what I should do too 😂
Great video as usual! You provide great insight to other Tesla owners. I purchased and installed the MagBak wheel protectors on my Model 3 after watching your video and have been very pleased with them. I wanted to ask you, since you are handy with things, do you think you will try to reapply 3M tape on the existing cover pieces when you replace the tires or just purchase new ones? Thanks!
Thanks Jes. Unfortunately MagBak still aren’t offering the 3M tape as a kit. This is a bit of a negative for the RimCase. You can either message them about buying a single kit or buy some sheets of the 3M adhesive and cut to size yourself. I recently sprayed a new brand tyre shine on my tyres. I got distracted and forgot to wipe the excess off. There was a lot of excess spray that ran down and affected the 3M tape adhesive. Some of the segments actually came loose. They are looking into why this happened. Something to be careful off. They have worked well up until I did this and I still highly recommend them. I bought some of the one piece protectors to see what they are like. They are cheaper but they look pretty flimsy in comparison. I don’t think they would provide as much protection. I might use this opportunity to compare the 2 options.
Great video! Those look like pretty low profile jacks. Would they fit under a Model 3?
Yes tried and tested on my old model 3. The model 3 is pretty low to the ground so you need to measure first and consider the lifting puck. You also need to consider the height for scissor jacks too as standard ones are too tall.
Great video, Matt.
I have done 39k on my Pirelli P Zero 235/35 R20's, I have strictly rotated every 10k and they are at 3mm now. Unfortunately they have worn very unevenly on each tire and have 3mm on the outer grooves and 5mm on the center grooves. I have religiously stuck to 42psi so it feels like it is too low for this tire, so I have increased to 46psi now to wear the center a bit more and hopefully squeeze another 10k out of them. The wear indicators are still a while off, seems to be around 1.6mm from my research but I will replace around 2-2.5mm.
Keen to hear your thoughts on the correct tire pressure? Yours are wearing evenly, are you running them at 42 as per Tesla's recommendation?
My mates old lowered Datsun 1600 with huge rear camber used to wear the inside edge of his tyres 😂….Are you sure you don’t have a wheel alignment issue? Doesn’t seem right to me. You have done well to get to 39000km. Pirelli tyres are good though. Required tyre pressure can vary with different tyres and the Tesla recommended pressures are for the stock tyres. I run the standard 42psi. I have mine set to Bar so 2.9-3.0 bar. My brother in law runs the same in his M3 with 18” wheels same as my old 3. He has pretty even tyre wear too. At 46psi you might get a bit slippy in the wet but you might also get better economy 😜
I will probably stretch mine out just under 3mm tread depending how slippery they get in the wet. They are still reasonably grippy but the Y is heavier has much less torque than my 3 had I’m still hoping to get to 40000km but that could be wishful thinking
@@notinthemanual I don't think so as every tire has the same wear pattern (ie more wear on the outside and less in the middle), which suggests a pressure issue I think?
Economy is much better at 46psi, but it rides like a go kart!
@@aviationboy8 Snow ploughing front tyres will cause same wear but if it’s even across all 4 then could be tyre pressure. Being worn on one side though makes me think it isn’t just pressure and more to do with alignment. Have you ever had a wheel alignment done?
@@notinthemanual never alignment, but Tesla did a balance at the last rotation. It’s wearing more out both sides though so I didn’t think it would be an alignment issue? It’s only the middle groove has 2mm more depth than the outers on all 4 tires. I’ve done another 3k since the rotation and I had a look yesterday, doesn’t seem to be getting worse so I think the increase in pressure has helped. I’ll change these in about another 10k or so and get an alignment done just in case. I’m thinking of putting on the hankook ion evo’s, they are very highly rated and supposedly are good for 50-70k!
What is the thought process for rotation on the RWD cars? I can understand on all wheel drive cars to keep the tyres equally worn but don’t understand how the RWD models would be affected unless you want to change all 4 tyres at the same time? Tesla states in the manual to rotate to extend tyre life but for no other reason, just wondering why you felt the need to change all 4 tyres as mentioned on your previous model 3? Enjoy your videos very informative.
Hi Lee. I did aim to explain this in the video but maybe I didn’t do a good job. RWD cars and AWD cars need rotation for the same reasons. Tesla AWD cars are only RWD most of the time unless they need the extra power or sense slip between the front and rear wheels. They will still wear the tyres slightly more even than the RWD. Front to rear rotation will also share the extra shoulder wear seen on the front tyres on both drive types. You can change a single or pair of tyres if it won’t cause a difference in diameter of 1.5mm between tyres. This is why I had to replace all 4 on my model 3 when I didn’t rotate. A large difference in diameter will cause issues with traction control systems.
@@notinthemanual Thanks for the reply, it makes sense, i need to swap my tyres around then!
That’s the theory. I was having traction control issues with my model 3 when the rear tyres were worn. I had an EV and non-EV tyre on the rear and this just made the issue worse.
Tread depth when new was 7mm right? And rears wear out 2x as fast at 2mm per 10k km vs 1mm at the front. I think even with 10k km rotations, you're gonna need new tyres at 25k km. The rears will only last 5k km when you do the 3rd rotation. Thats when your original rears come back from the fronts. I've had pilot sport 4S tyres in 245/30/R20 on a car, and they did about 20k to 25k km with 3 rotations. Before hitting wear indicators. It's a very soft compound made for performance. Someone else on youtube tried the Winrun R330 on his tesla and said they improved efficiency heaps because of the higher wear rating. Much cheaper tyre top. But might have trust issues. Haha
You’re assuming that I won’t now change my driving style 😂
Yes these are very grippy tyres and that comes at a cost to tread life. I changed to e-primacy on my model 3 and they had a higher wear life but traction was not as good. You could fit non-EV tyres and get more tread depth to begin with but no way I am going to do that after cutting the two open in my comparison video. It’s not worth it and they will probably wear out faster anyway. I know what the problem is…my right foot. Not the tyre or it being an EV. Let’s see in another 10k. I’m already halfway there.
Hello, remember me? I'm from Poland. Over a year ago, we corresponded about the use of the LFP battery in winter conditions. In my opinion, there is no need to rotate the tires (wheels). In my case, I change tires after 30,000 km and the front tires had 6.2 mm and the rear tires had 5.8 mm. I have TM3 RWD LFP. I would also like to talk about a strange case with my battery which, according to calculations, has only about 50-52kWh net (60kWh LFP) capacity. 2-3 months ago, based on the same calculations, it had approximately 56-57 kWh net. Something must have happened with the car's calculations. I noticed in your other video that ScanMyTesla shows that the buffer is about 6.8kWh...
Hi Piotrek. Yes I remember who you are. Yes tyre wear comes down to how you drive the car. My tyre wear will never be as even as you have experienced so rotating the tyres is essential for me. How are you calculating your battery capacity? What is your displayed range at 100% now compared to when the car was new? Occasionally my car will show high degradation of around 4-5% and it is only 6 months old. This is due to an error in the calculated capacity and it normally takes a couple of full charge cycles to correct. If your energy buffer is high it normally means that there is high cell imbalance and the BMS increases the buffer for safety.
My new Model Y had a large buffer of 6.8kWh as it was new and the cells were imbalanced while the battery was settling down to the real capacity instead of the installed capacity.
@@notinthemanual above I mentioned about this buffer. It is very interesting what you wrote.
My energy buffer now sits at 2.7kWh. LFP is slightly more prone to cell imbalance so charging to 100% allows the cells to balance. The buffer will increase if cell imbalance is too high.
@@notinthemanual generaly is true but I'm not sure. Yesterday I updated the system (to 2024.8.9) and today my calculations show me a capacity of 60.2kWh (compared to 50-52kWh before). So I think it depends on the software. I'm sure the last firmware wasn't right...
100€ for wheel balance here in Germany and they didn't even have a professional balancing Maschine. I haven't done alignment and have 50k km.
Yes that seems expensive! At lot of cars will hold their initial wheel alignment for a very long time if the roads are in good condition. We have a lot of potholes here in Sydney so it is difficult 😜
My tyre agent recommended against front to rear rotation at 10000km on my M3 as the rears were fairly worn and not worth fitting on front.
Hi Mark. Yes some people will need to rotate more often than 10000km. You need to adapt to your driving style. Everyone with a Tesla now has a performance vehicle and performance cars have always shredded tyres. I’m definitely not surprised by the wear I have. Rotating might not double the life of your tyres but it will definitely extend the life of all 4. My brother in law was on his way to getting over 40000km on his M3s first set of tyres but he had a puncture too close to the sidewall and a new tyre would’ve had too much tread difference so he had to replace all 4 at 38000km. Tesla actually recommended having the tyres with the most tread on the rear of the car to reduce the chances of hydroplaning and loosing control. Having a stable rear end is often more important.
@@notinthemanual Thanks… good considerations. I agree that taming the rapid acceleration impulse will have a significant impact on tyre wear. Your experiences with the M3 boosted my decision to get one. I have now chalked up Sydney to Adelaide twice and Sydney Melbourne. Fantastic way to travel.
@@markpirola8152 It’s nice to hear that sharing my experience helped you make the decision to go for the M3. Teslas are awesome road tripping machines! I find long distance driving so much easier in an EV. I haven’t had any fatigue on long trips due to a combination of autopilot and stopping to recharge the car/me every couple of hours. I’d love to do the Adelaide drive one day. I just did a Thredbo trip last month. So easy.