Anet A8 Journey - Upgrades Part 1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 เม.ย. 2024
- After a few weeks of having the Anet A8, it's time to post an update on all the upgrades i have printed and installed on it. Still a long way to go, but the improvement so far has been great.
Anet A8 from Gearbest:
For the latest discounts and codes from gearbest on 3D Printers, check out my Affiliate page (Constantly Updated): bit.ly/2iD5eRu
External Mosfets:
Ebay UK: ebay.to/2o7qHGs
Amazon US: amzn.to/2oK3E5m
Simplify3D Factory File: www.dropbox.com/s/scom13duxyf...
Printed Upgrade Parts:
T-Corner: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959
Filament Guide: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1764285
Y-Axis Cable Chain: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1874802
X-Axis Cable Chain: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2115095
Mosfet Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054199
Mainboard Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2013479
PSU Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1798604
Z-Wobble bracket: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435
Please consider using the following links to make your online purchases for filament or 3d printing accessories, it will not cost you anything extra but will go a long way to help support this channel.
Matterhackers: bit.ly/2mH1jHx
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Amazon UK: www.amazon.co.uk/?tag=3dmano-21
Ebay: ebay.to/2nghQPH
Gearbest: bit.ly/2m3n0xL
Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/iYv3ZjM
Banggood: bit.ly/2lEVsCO
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I wish everyone would start with this printer. You learn so much about not only the process of printing, but the building and perfecting of the machine and how that has an impact on your prints. I've recently upgraded after a couple of years printing with the Anet, and the previous experience made the next printer that much easier. Thanks Anet for the challenge, and helping bring 3d printing into everyones home.
I love the idea of decking out the anet a8. especially if you have a limited budget where its easier to add to the printer over Time as of throwing a lump sum of money at once. its like leveling up you player in a game. im enjoying printing parts for it and adding parts here and there.
I just purchased this. Looking forward to creating some unique interior car parts. Thank you for your video. Now I know what my first projects are going to be. Great video. Keep them coming.
Very cool! Interesting see the different style of upgrades people make for our 'little' printers.
mine will be here tomorrow and I have ZERO experience with 3d printing. I can't WAIT to get into this
Thanks for the video, I've been looking into upgrading my own A8 and I love the idea of a journey series that I can follow along with and hear your thoughts on the different upgrades you can do.
+Mykel awesome, glad I could be of service :) there is so much that can be done to this printer so there will be many more videos to come
just ordered my anet a8 last night. I'm looking forward to following your upgrade journey to help guide mine. Great video quality. Subscribed
hey! thank you very much. will have many more videos coming i assure you :) lots of things you can do to this printer
Thank you this helped solve a handful of my problems with X & Y skipping as well as cosmetics. This with a couple other videos and thingiverse upgrades, I now feel confident in printing and troubleshooting. I am a noob far as 3D printing goes and am learning more or less by trial and error. Boo me, but I am learning quickly and enjoying the process albeit slow going. Not quite ready to switch to Marlin firmware, but possibly soon like I said enjoying the learning curve to make quality parts. Next is to render my own stuff, but baby steps I need to get the printer printing more reliably.
Looks very different with the orange. Fun to watch all the changes you are doing to it and how it affects the print quality. ☺️
+Fredrik Bärg the orange was the only PLA I had enough of to print all those parts hehe
amazing job! I have a geeetech prusa i3 kit. One of the most easy upgrades i have done is just free the lead screws on the top of the frame, in that way, only the linear smooth rails guide the x gantry.
+maxkmelo18 thank you :) will definitely see if I can find or create a few brackets for the Ross's and leadscrews
Love all the videos keep it up :) I’m super new to 3d printing and looking forward to getting stuck in :)
Cool video Jo, I'm still upgrading my CTC Prusa i3
Great video. Would love to see any and all videos you can do involving upgrades to the Anet A8.
thank you, si should have the next one coming up tonight where i upgrade the firmare to skynet :)
I was just about to do that as well. Have been printing with stock firmware for about 2 months but I believe Skynet offers more options so I had planed to upgrade.
A video on how to install and set up the firmware upgrade to do auto leveling would be very helpful. Very good video quality. I look forward to seeing what else you produce. Keep up the good work.
oh yes, will definitely do all of that. first i need to test the A6 and compare them, then the fun starts ;)
Nice vid...you seem to be a perfectionist...and thats great...making something good even better...good for you !!
Im gonna buy Anet A8 as my first 3D printer.
Good price atm. Watched so many videos about this stuff and i need one NOW.
Will take from UK, so i can get it within a week instead of month
thank you for everything
+Bilal Akyüz you are more than welcome :)
Great Video Joe!
+Austin Boni cheers buddy :)
just got this printer! build time was a pain and adjusting things was took some time but now with some upgrades printed it works really well! I saw that you havent printed another fan thing. In my opinion that made alot of difference!
i will probably print a different one shortly and compare the difference between all fan shrouds :)
Cool! I will make sure to watch =) Only problem I have now with mine is the first layer looks abit like spaghetti
I would love to see the ramps board install walkthrough. I just bought the Anet A8 and am having a ball adding and modding it.
+John Robinson I will definitely do an episode or maybe a series on installing and updating ramps for sure
once i added self leveling to mine the prints improved 100%. i recently ran both my a8s for over 2 weeks straight with no problem or have to relevel the bed
+mikes makes I do have an auto level sensor available so will most likely install it
If it is related to the a8 up grades please do a video of it. And please throw in links to all of the places to get what needs got. Thanks JT
Thanks Joe just found it in the description of this video
+seetcas awesome :)
Here are some tips to owners: This is the order in which I feel the upgrades should be done. When building: Don't cut the y-belt off short, it will need to be longer once you install the y-tensioner. Don't use tape, it sucks, I also don't like stickers because they tend to get damage too easily and either won't stick or sticks too much to the print. Rather go to your local hardware store and ask them to cut you a couple of 220x220 4mm glas sheets and clip them to your print bed. Cover the glass with glue stick and you will also need to increase your bet temp by atleast 10 degrees with glass on. Glass can be removed if needed and replaced with a fresh sheet ready to print. When glass cools print comes loose easier. Glass also reduces the amount of impact your frame, rods and bearings take due to you trying to get your prints loose from the bed. Also insulate the bottom of your print bed to preserve heat better. Print belt tensioners first. ( Better not to print the y-tensioner with the printed screw because if your belts are not tight yet, the screw won't be perfectly round ) Be careful of printing things like z-wobble attachments and X drag chain upgrades. Drag chains can cause vibration if they are a bit stiff. A lot of the designs on thingiverse tend to hit the top of the printer and limit your height like the fitting used in this video for x-chain mount an z-wobble. They work but be aware that they limit your height. I value height and have discarded any upgrades that downgrade height. Do the following upgrade instead of printing braces: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2045010. Then look at z-stop upgrades and bed-level upgrades. Now look into some additional frame stiffeners. If you feel up to it, do the bowden upgrade, it is worth it but can be a pain in the ass to get installed properly. PS. Be careful of fan duct upgrades, most of them limit air flow more than they help.
Nice one. .
I learned to love my "sticker" when I started tuning the first layer temperature only to achieve the desired adhesion. Hotter, it sticks more, cooler it sticks less. Tune until you can pop your prints off without struggling and you will love it. No glue sticks, tape, hair spray ... all of that stuff causes inconsistencies and mess.
Nice work Joe. I would be interested to see your approach to implementing the OctoPi power control.
thank you :) i will definitely document that hourney. if not on the Anet definitely on another printer
Cool, looking forward to it.
Keep up the great work mate.
New sub! Keep up the good work with these informative and entertaining vids. I'll be getting my first 3DP soon. (A8) All the great info from the A8 community and the 3d printing community in general, has been awesome! Thanks for the knowledge 3DP Noob, and to the entire 3D printing community for accomplishing some amazing things by putting your minds together.
Sorry, meant to say 3DM Noob! : )
+Dj Goku thank you very much first and foremost :) you'll absolutely love having a 3D printer. Word of advice though, it's very addictive and you'll soon find that one printer is not enough :)
Well, for the price of the A8, I might pick up a second one eventually, but I'll see how the first one goes for now. lol.
+Dj Goku haha, wait a while, building the Anet A6 on Saturday. Might actually be a better option for a second printer
I've got time. I'll definitely be checking the review out. Although I've seen one other side by side comparison between the two and the determination there was the A8 still being the better "value to print quality" choice. So I'll be interested to see your opinion, as you may be a bit more experienced with various printers than the other vlogger ... which shall not be named. haha.
looking good ..
+K K thank you :)
Almost ready to hit the purchase button for an A8 printers.
Is there a dual head or multi-material head upgrade for the A8? I need to be able to print with dissolvable support material (i.e.: PVA support with PLA or PLA support with Nylon)
I can't find the linear Zaxis bracing you have. where did you get the stl's for those?
Joseph, do you have the stl of that nice turntable? Love your videos man! :D
s there a web site for all these great upgrades if not where can i find them THANK YOU you video was and is great
Hi ,awesome video by the way :)
I just wanted to ask you is there any reason why I am able to print only one part on my Anet A8 using cura 3.2.1. ? I tried several parts but none of The other parts print the one parts I am able to print is the part to avoid the Vibration I printed 3 times different times and no problem but other parts just won't print it keeps pushing my filament out even if I push it manually the step motor from the extruder push out the filament but if I go back to print the anti wobble part works ? Please help
Hey 3D Maker Noob, interesting video about the anet. i have done similar upgrades and changing the entire z axis brackets is a waste of time with that cable chain. run the extruder to the top, it will colide with the chain.
great video ,you mentioned a spanish company selling a metal frame? Any more info please?
Awesome review! I recently found someone selling one of these. He already built it, so I may have to really check his work. He only wants $180.00 for it so I may get it while I wait patiently for my i3 MK3? If I can upgrade it as you have, it could be fun to get to know some of the ins-and-outs of 3-D printing before I get the next one.
Thanks for doing these upgrade tips. I'm new to 3d printing or should I say an absolute dummy looking for the best info. To take the best path for the best printer for the best results. Did I say that right? Anyway what would you suggest for me the Anet a8, or the Creality 3D pro? What is the best software for someone who knows another about design "in" software. I'm a Draftsman and can draw a house or anything I want but the software part loses me, like Blender or or Scuptra. I don't know what to do when or how to do it when needed. Lol. I need help!!
please provide a link for the ramps kit you mentioned.
You missed the cooling air Nozzel, and if you rais the coupler, as the stepper motor should not go too long in the coupler, then the lead screw will reach up to the hole that you mounted the lead screw through.
I have to set the speed to 52%, because at the beginning no filament comes out (also at 52%,but it's a bit better). Also, at the heat up, very much filament comes out, and when i let it, it destroys the beginning. I only downloaded a small thing from thingiverse, used the Slic3r for Linux (only typed: ./slic3r model.stl), but I think that's also not the best. Didn't even look at the options, cause no time ^^
How can I prevent the filament coming out too early(at heating), and then stops coming out at the beginning of the print?
I really think you have a great flux uploading videos. don't need to rush it. by the way, I would love to see the Bowden conversion with the already existent parts and how that would affect the print.
+Leandro Lopes thank you. I will see if I can convert the titan to a Bowden as I think that will be the way to go
I am really looking to know about the new titan aero, just waiting reviews of it so I can buy an extruder.
Leandro Lopes hopefully next week at some point :)
cool you've got my chain x-axis chain and i recommend getting a different cooling vent brings up the print quality exponentially i suggest the semi circular or fully circular duct on thingiverse
+The Random Engineer in that case a thank you is in order, and I have upgraded the fan duct, I did a comparison video on them :)
ya i saw that after commenting. I saw the date on the video as jun 6 thinking you just posted the video; I wanted to do some vent tests myself recently and found the same results that the semi was the best until i found www.thingiverse.com/thing:2297996 worked a bit better on the overhang test and reduced stringing on the latus cube .the cube i had made was small enough that i had to set the slicer to single .4 wall with no infill.
i thought it was pretty funny that i did pretty much the same tests as you without ever seeing the video.
great minds think alike i guess
These have gotten a bit cheaper since you got yours. The 3 bearing sliders (not sure what they are called) behind the extruder on mine are plastic and not square to each other so when all the screws are tight it pinches the rail and won't slide. I am gonna have to use spacer washers to fix this issue :/. thanks for these videos they are really helpful.
Which is best 3d printer, Anet A3 Full Aluminum Plastic Frame Assembled or the Anet A8 Desktop 3D Printer Prusa i3 DIY Kit, thank you.
I'm about to purchase my first printer. I'm leaning to the a8m versus the a8. I see my next step to dual color printing so, might as well get the dual extruder versus upgrading later. Your thoughts? I wish the A6 came in a "m", but no.
Dual extruders with fixed nozzles are quite a pain in my opinion. Personally as a first printer I’d rather suggest the ender 3 nowadays. Less than 200, much better build quality, bigger build volume and impressive print quality
great vid :) things getting hectic. lol. have a good one joe. :)
+Turenkarn haha yeah I need to find a way to keep up :) you too buddy
A friend of mine has an A8 and is having an issue. He can't get the printer to reset on the X and Y axis (Go to home position). All of the G code is good and all other settings are good. What needs to happen to fix the issue? I am looking at getting the same printer and would like to know how to fix the problem for him. WOW, 3D printing has come a long way from my experience with it.
can u pls telk me all slicer settings like the temp and all that...pls?
and what slicer do u use
good video!
Ramps 1.4
if you get started with it, I'll also be watching!
I hope that you then (what others do not) want to pay attention to the screen.
with the right marlin software you can do a LOT in the screen! (settings)
unfortunately, not much attention is paid to this at other Y.T. channels.
friendly greetings from The Netherlands!
Rob.
Hey Joe, just thought i would give you an update on what i discovered after updating to Skynet3D, The LCD issue seemed to be caused by the lead to it from the main chipboard coming ever so slightly unplugged (barely noticeable). Since pushing it back in I have (fingers cross) not had the alien language since. Just incase you get asked about it again may be a solution for others.
where do i find the upgrades that was made for the printer
Hey Joe! Great videos, thank you! I just bought the Anet A8 and plan to install the mosfets. You mention you're going to do a video on the mosfet installation... but I can't find it. Did you do that yet, and could you include a link if you have? THANK YOU!! Thumbs up and subscribed. :) I also plan to wire in the switch... can you include that too?
hey, i have included both of those in one episode :) th-cam.com/video/TFIoPQrOD68/w-d-xo.html and thank you :)
Excellent, thank you! I couldn't find it.
do you have the files for the stuff you printed to upgrade the printer available?
How did you make your intro, it looks very similar to jerryrigeverything’s intro
Hi! I bought an Anet A8 printer It was printing normally, but the thermistor dropped and when I saw it was coming out smoke from the printer, so I unplugged the plug. The problem is that when I try to print something the filament is coming out thick (even gushed) even with the temperature of 200 degrees that I used to use before the smoke happened. Help me, pleaseeeeee
All those upgrades and still no circular cooling fan. I think you're one of the first ever Anet A8 to do that. Congrats. Still a good video doe.
+Bart Wegh hehe will test it out, not a huge fan of circular fan ducts to be honest. I find that they are less efficient, but will probably test it out and do a comparison with all the ones available
3D Maker Noob nice, I'm looking forward to it.
Great video mate, I was wondering if you recommend this over the Tevo Tarantula? there r quite a debate between both and many opinions..
+astromicwm to be honest, haven't got my hands on a tarantula yet so can really compare. But hopefully I will at some point :)
Thanks'.. Keep up the good work
Hey all, can anyone tell me what kind of colour the orange is, ordered some from janbex but its kinda not that deep orange like yours.
Hi, could you share your mattercontrol setting for anet a8
good video! keep up the good work :)
+Maxi Malek thank you :)
whens Upgrades Part 2 coming out
Are the bearings on the lead screws improving anything? Because on the i3 (official and clones), the gap around the lead screw at the top is there for a purpose, to allow the screws to wobble so it will not constrain the Z-axis and cause wobble on the print. With the bearings your axis are now fixed on 3 points and might push at the middle if the screw is not straight.
+Julien Krivacsy the z-banding is almost gone thanks to those. I tend to try and calibrate the leadscrews as perfectly as possible. Running the z axis up and down in increments and measuring all the way to make sure they are as perfectly aligned as I can possibly get them.
In generell a improvement Video would be nice. And especially one about the firmware. I am not sure which one I should take - and why. Currently I am running Skynet 1.1 alpha for autoleveling, but the Display stops working on G28 ....
i might end up installing marling on it when i upgrade to ramps 1.4 still have to do a bit of research :)
This is also a good topic - why do you upgrade to the new board? What's the benefit? Why a new PSU? A PC (ATX PSU)?
all will be discussed :) but the mainboard is mainly for more stability and safety, also upgradeability. The PSU will give the printer better power load, heat quicker and so on
Cool - looking forward for it. :-D Do you have some links to buy for instance a PSU? And the board bundle you mansioned?
Ramps: amzn.to/2nVJeSC and PSU: amzn.to/2okeXPl
Is it possible to upgrade the Anet A8 with Prusa Multi Material Upgrade Kit?
20W PSU? @7:52 Presume you meant to say 20A :)
+salle rc I did :) apologies
WOW #highfive Joe nice Color Combination looks GOOOOOD :-))
Awsome 😮
It seems like this is an acrylic frame. I am looking for upgrades to the laminated version. I dont suppose you or any of your viewers know of some decent videos I can use to find STLs to upgrade the two Anet A8''s I have currently.
Hey 3dmn! I just found your channel and its awesome. I just wanna ask you something. I decided to buy a 3d printer and I'm really excited but dunno which to buy there are so many brands. I'm asking you to help me with your 3d printer knowlegde. I wanna buy something between 150-300 dollars. What's your recommendation? Thanks.
My Prausa I3 A8 mother board accepts USB connection only for windows 8. Is there away to over com this problem? Any upgrade of the driver to be able to connect to win 10 64 bit??
joe, the mosfets for what is this actually on the anet a8 and it is recommended, perhaps you can give more information about a video or something?
+Mark Leppens the mosfet is essentially there to regulate voltage to the heatbed. If something fails it's the mosfet that stops current. Also, it's a good way to protect the main board. Will definitely do an in depth video on mosfets
Please I need to know what the stand you used for photos model on min 3:42 I love the rounding while video
+Ahmed Farouk it's a cheap photo shoot turn table which I found off eBay
Please if you do not mind may I have a link for that product on eBay
ebay.to/2oaQtcO
Thanks
you should really print out an improved fan duct. You get way better cooling and print quality
Where did you find the wreck it ralph to print?
1) what type of FUSE will u use? 2) pls do the same things with the A6
i raul I will have to do some maths to figure out the fuse, but I think somewhere in between 5 and 10 amps should be it. And I definitely will do the same. It's the only way to do a fair comparison :)
3D Maker Noob cool, i was asking about the fuse because people on the forums can.t decide themselves. Some of them say 3amp other say 6amps.. -_- / btw maybe u put a link with the mosfets ( i.m also from europe)
for the hotend for a standard 40w 12v heater a 5amp blade fuse or equivalent glass quick blow ( 5x20mm 0r 6x36mm) will do. For the bed its around 110w so @ 12vdc 9.3A so a 15A blade or equivalent glass quick blow. Just remember blade fuses are ok and certainly better than nothing but do take a higher inrush current before blowing compared to glass quick blow fuses.
+i raul I put an eBay link for them as that's the only place that shipped to Europe for some reason. There is a formula to work out the fuse sizes from Cheo3DPrinting
is the 3d files in the descriptions free or do i have to pay for them?
First of all nice video! I believe that 'Anet A8 journey' will be useful for many people. And secondly, I've got a doubt, next week I am getting an Anet A8 and I was wondering if the Mosfets upgrade is important to do it before switching the machine for the first time or if I could make it later. Also is it needed to have an extra mosfet for the extruder or is just for extra safety? Thank you in advance and keep with the good work :)
+Ángel L hey, so mosfets are not needed straight away. However I do suggest at least resoldering the wires directly to the heatbed. Doesn't have to be straight away, but something to consider if you intend to use the heatbed a lot. The extra mosfet for the hotend is just me being extra cautious, better safe than sorry ;)
the heatbed will draw about 9.3A the board fets and copper are supposedly rated for 15A so initially probably not necessary but the boards are junk and use cheap on board fets. so better of getting a better board sooner rather than later. the hotend will probably draw around 3A so not necessary for an External fet. The external Mosfets don't really make anything safer just extra protection for you mainboard.
Also forgot to say another reason not to use external Mosfet's for your hot end is the fact that if the Mosfet fails it will fail closed and apply full load to your hot end heater bypassing all firmware safety's. Never a good idea the heat bed should normally be alright because they can seldom reach above 120°C but the hot end well...
Also good practice would be adding thermal fuses to both the hot end and bed so as your not relying just on the firmware for your protection.
Gareth Price very good point and noted. Thank you, will make sure to mention it and apply it
My hotbed connector lasted about 2 months. The X + Y belts lasted around 3 weeks.
Do we buy a 3d printer to fix the 3d printer or to make? I get it helps develop 3d printers but is that the makers goal?
What are the MOSFET? Thank you.
Hi Joe me again :) just a quickie this time, how many segments did you use for each support chain? Thanks bud
Alucard 27 for the extruder and 15 for the bed :)
Hi, I saw you had a flsun printer in the back. How does print quality relate to the Anet A8?
+vizkoze which one? I don't have any flsun printers yet
behind you in the video on your left hand side. I must be mistaken. They all look alike. :) www.aliexpress.com/item/Flsun-3D-Printer-Prusa-I3-DIY-Kits-Auto-leveling-Aluminum-Frame-Large-3D-Printing-Size-Heated/32679964210.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.9.ZhfkC7&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10068_10084_10083_10080_10304_10307_10082_10081_10177_10110_10137_10111_10302_10060_10112_10113_10155_10114_10154_10056_10055_10054_10312_10313_10059_10314_10315_100031_10099_10078_10079_10103_10073_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051,searchweb201603_18,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=b8ec6a40-5a77-49d6-9b95-7489eb9d2920&algo_expid=310aaa10-8f04-47dc-a193-8ee7f945e89b-1&algo_pvid=310aaa10-8f04-47dc-a193-8ee7f945e89b
Where can we get the upgrade files
when will you relaese the upgrades part 2 video ;-) ?
+helmkampchris hopefully soon, by next week most probably :)
thank you, i'm looking forward to it ;-) it's great inspiration !
you shouldn't really use those top z wobble brackets, its better to leave them floating free
Why? And how to avoid of wobbling?
If your z axis leadscrews are bent, you can try to straighten them if it's not very much. Or buy new ones (rather inexpensive, all in all). But if you constrain the tops of the leadscrews like that, it can adversely affect the whole system (the tension it creates may bind something up). If they're left free floating, all of the potential stress is relieved right there.
Also, if the bend in the leadscrews isn't very bad, it's not likely to affect print quality noticeably.
micky mous :^) Exactly, I can't believe how many of these "anti z wobble" "upgrades" are on thingiverse
I'd like to know where the hell you found a titan extruder AND new stepper motor for it, for 30 Euro... aka 34-35 dollars.... cause damn.... gimme that link... i'll buy 6...
OK so I took the leap and bought an Anet A8. For right now I have one question, Can I use ANY kind of glass on the hot bed?
strictly speaking yes, normal glass will still work
is it not possible to easily use an ATX power supply?
Hello Joe, do you share the .stl files of your mod's Best regards Piet.
hey. I´d like to ask you about the two mosfets. one is for the printing bed, that i know. whatfor is the second one, please?
thx
+Branislav Benkei it's for the hotend, but I will remove that as it's not needed due to the hotend needing much less amps than the heatbed
Convert to a E3D V6 Hotend, and to a Bowden setup, also do an Auto Leveling tutorial
+Victor Tan yep, I will order also the level sensor :) I can do either a Bowden setup or direct drive. Or better yet, I can do both and compare ;)
I think Tech2c has done a video on the comparison, in my opinion i like the bowden setup. For the auto level sensor i recommend you buy the 5v sensor from aliexpress so its a lot easier to do the wiring no resisters or any stuff like that. Here's the link goo.gl/jQLYi5
3D Maker Noob HI can you post the setting you used for the Tronxy p802
+T Rucker I should be able to. What slicer?
+Victor Tan I actually have one of those, same as was used on the tronxy
What kind of bearings did you used on the Z-Wobble bracket?
+Marcio Hauagge Salatiel it was a 606zz bearing if I am not wrong
Hi. Can you tell you much do you have voltage for z axis motors ? Thank you.
+Karolis Girdenis I never tweaked the voltage, used the standard settings
Hi there. I want to print linear chain for my Anet. I saw your MODs in thingiverse. Whats the best way to print it? There are two options there. Single pieces placed on the bottom or assembled chains places on the sides?
either are fine, i prefer the side one as it feels like it flow better with the bed
the 2 mosfits you have.. are they for the board and nossel?
yes, although only the bed is truly needed
You will need to modify a lot of things on the ramps board to make it reliable.
Remove diode D1 to avoid ramps board feeding 12v into arduino Vin pin, so arduino wont use its weak voltage regulator (only 800ma) to power everything, which burns the voltage regulator quite easily. But doing so you will need to install a external voltage regulator (with higher capacity) to feed 5v to arduino + ramps + lcd + servos + drivers + fans. It's a quite cheap mod, tho.
Remove the power connector from ramps board, and solder wires with an connector that can handle the current (like a XT90 connector).
Change the heatbed Mosfet and remove the heatbed connector from ramps board, and solder wires with an connector that can handle the current (like a XT60 connector), or use the original mosfet and connector but powering the heatbed through an SSR (solid state relay).
Cut the +5v pins on the endstop connector. Its a quite easy to plug the wrong way and burn everything.
if you could see my face reading that comment lol sounds overwhelming but i am guessing just like everything else, i will need to read up quite a bit before diving into the Ramps upgrade. thank you very much for the info. will def do take note of everything
I don't understand why you Anet A8 frame isn't rigid mine is, I understand the power switch I have added the same one including the enclosure (needed upgrade) I did put drag chains on although I put bed one on the rear, I put filament holder on the top above where the LCD screen went, the screen is now at side in an enclosure, I also added trans-flash to SD card extension cable that is around 35cm long this saves me struggling to insert the memory card. also a necessary upgrade,in all my printer works fine, I use PLA and PETG with no problems, the only thing I don't like is loading the filament, I have to remove the side fan to get it to load properly, I have got new E6 extruder but waiting for integrated Bowden and Motor to arrive to swap it out. this should make the Printer sweet (I hope)thanks for sharing
If you have your own website may you try to get permission by anet to publish your own upgraded anet 8 (upgrade money goes to you and printer money goes to anet)
As far as the printable upgrades are concerned does anyone know if they are compatible with the Tronxy clone?
Just bought the Anet A8 is there any upgrades you would recommend buying/making right away ? @3DMakerNoob
+Hunter Lash solder the heatbed wires and install a mosfet. Then everything I mentioned on the video :)
And plz do a video on xyz callaberation
+FiringPhoenix32 will def do :)
Yes, this would be great and very helpful to me.
I need Tronxy XY-100 updates :( Dam bed is small and not heated but I have manage get some good runs now after I update slicer & put PLA from 200 to 210 so it stays in bed when start. Also I did fix fan what had one cable lose so now it has printed 4 days full something. I have also 40W Chinese laser what did get Air nozzle (I have no air pump yet to that) because my cutting get too much smoke. Then I did print some toy horse things & cable chain (what is too small, just testing). I have only very cheap PLA because I did know that I get miss prints or some tests done so It will be used to that then. Now I have printed 3 days parts to toy dog... Every part takes 4+ hours (or more) to print and original was so big that I have put it to 35% to get it to Tronxy's bed :)