Anet A8 3D Printer Bowden Conversion - Double the print speed
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ม.ค. 2021
- Prusa i3 clone bowden conversion with J-Head Hotend Extruder
Mount used in the video: www.thingiverse.com/thing:219...
Parts for the printer were ordered from amazon and cost me total of 30 usd, conversion itself takes a couple of hours to finish.
Before I was using 50mm/s as my normal print speed, anything more than that and I wasn't comfortable with the printer finishing the part correctly. With the bowden extruder I have constantly used 100mm/s as print speed and the prints have turned out just fine. This was definitely a good upgrade on my books. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Took me hours to find a video that was in English and easy to follow, finally found this, much appreciated. :)
Very high quality video! You deserve more subs!
Thank you! I enjoy trying to improve the quality on these videos!
Nice.
is it still alive? I took my a6 changed it to a 3030 alu frame, e3d v6 and an old ender 3 v2 board, x axis with 2020 alu / openbuilds carriage and a custom minimal hotend cooler 404010 for the E3d and a 404020 for the filament cooling, now tested with 180mm/sec, with some ghosting but works perfect. Regards!
I'm having a problem with the home position. It's not in line with the old print head.
Thankss
I'm planning on doing the conversation on my machine. Did you have to get some extra screws for the 3d printed parts.
Yeah, I used some extra screws on this. They were some old screws I had lying around. Most likely M3-M5 range.
I have questions, one, is this J-head any good? I hear it's not great according to "Amazon reviews", two, Is this better than stock? Sure it might not be the best but I like my money so don't wish to buy the latest and greatest at the cost of my bank. Three, this is the biggest one I have that I have yet to find an answer to, what were the printed parts for this printed with? Currently I am only able to print with PLA (partly because I'm not confident I can print anything else yet), but also no matter what material was used, do the parts not melt being so close to the hotend? I sthe heat sink really that cool just from blowing the fan on it? I really have my doubts about this, please tell me I am wrong and just worrying about nothing, I really do want to do this, and then work on an enclosure to try printing ABS.
Thanks for the video
I have no complains about this J-head myself! For the price I personally think it is really good and the print quality on it is similar or better than on the old one. The difference is that print speeds are way higher now. The printed parts were printed on PLA plastic by a friend of mine (my printer wasn't working after the heat throat broke). The hot end is fairly cool around the part where it is being attached to the plate. All the heat is near the nozzle and the frame of the hot end stays really cool with the heatsink and the fan. I was amazed by it as well, the heat dissipation is really good. As of now I've printed for a good 20 hours and have had no problem with the mount being made out of PLA plastic. You're welcome!
@@tw2ka644 Hi, thanks for the reply. I went ahead and bought one of these, I also bought a dual geared extrusion kit as suggested by a friend. Managed to assemble it all together. Just a note in case anyone is to ask again, using a thermal camera on my phone, I saw that the heat sink part of this with the fan hangs around 30c while running the end at 200c. Unfortunately, I did not realize that my current belt holder which was 3d printed was not compatible with the back plate, so had to temporarily use 2 screws and some cable ties for now. I have created a modified version of the holder that I plan to print soon. I should have also bought some bearings too as I did not realize until I took the printer apart that they were getting a bit grindy and my belt also looks like it could do with replacing. And then I figured I would update Marlin while I was at it, so having lots of fun. I noticed that you made some small adjustments in the settings, however my original settings were way off and different from yours and even modified now still quite off. I am curious if I had been using bad settings all this time. I do appear to have some extrusion issues, weak infill and gaps in top surfaces, did you happen to experience any issues like that at all? Is it at all possible for you to share your cura profile so that I could cross check my settings to see if anything or your settings work better for me? Thanks again.
Hi i followed your video im just wondering about the retraction settings i set it to 2mm at 25mm speed but i get the filement leaking out the nozzle do i increase the distance or the speed or both thanks in advance
I would slowly increase the retraction speed first and see if it helps. The risk with the retraction is pulling the filament too far into the nozzle's cold part where it would solidify. If retraction speed doesn't make a difference then maybe go for 3 or 4 mm retraction.
@@tw2ka644 hi thank you I’ve been struggling to get this sorted, 4mm and 35mm worked perfectly thank you !
@@alexpalmer311 Great! Glad I could help
Interesting, my cr10 has a retraction of 7mm at 50mms and never had a clog. I have tried 4mm length and it strings and oozes like crazy haha. With my direct drive, 2mm is perfect. I just dis the y axis rework on my anet so it looks like an actual prusa haha
Yeah I used have a 7mm retraction in the past, not possible with the new nozzle haha. The nozzle I used is very well cooled so only the tip of the hotend is actually hot. Nice!
This is crazy I have the cr-20 and have gotten 2 clogs in 12 small prints using 5mm retraction
I need this
ciao. hai un link per l'estrusore? non riesco a trovarlo
Does the autoleveling sensor still work with this?
I have never had an autoleveling sensor on my printer so I don't know for sure. If I remember correctly there was a mount for a leveling sensor in the thingiverse files for the mount
did you make any changes to the firmware?
I did not. I only changed the retract distance and speed to smaller values on slicer settings.
Hi. when my anet a 8 model printer is turned on it says "def / 0 and def /". the printer is not processing. what is the solution to this problem?
I'm sorry I have no clue what could cause that. My printer has never done that. I'd probably try to reinstall the software on the printer and see if it fixes the problem!
@@tw2ka644 thanks my friend
Hey it’s because of a bad temp sensor
Or also maybe badly connected
i need some help with doing to my printer just what u did in this video but this is my first time dont that kinda stuff i did build my printer when it came an i got it up an printing but have got a ton of up grades i got a board from wowoone cnc 3d printer kit for Arduino Mega2560 R3 Ramps 1.4 Controller LCD 2004+6X limit Switch Endstop 5 A4988 Stepper Driver 3D Printrarduino arduino wud there be any way possable u cud help me get this up an working an come wed or thurthis week i will be getting the v bar to use a bracket that works with vbarso i will be tring to build that in as well when is tore down an i also have ciming some time this week a gaintarm A10T it has it where u can use 3 differnt fill at same time looks like a nice one just waiting for them to send so i can do reviews on it so if u are able to try an help me with this i have whats app it is if u dont know a app we can used for free to face time each other to get concted an u cud possable walk me thu every thing an i cud build while u walk me thu it u cud even video it for you tubd for a training video or what ever if u wanted of u coatching me in how to do this thu a face time app let me know please
Dont you want to change the frame to metal?
I've thought about it but I don't think it would be worth the trouble and money for my use. Acrylic frame is still holding on quite nice!
Dude, you have to reduce the print acceleration to 300mm/s doing so will reduce the whole shakyness of the printer and the brutal acceleration/deceleration factor, hence you will be able to increase the speed up to 80mm/s stock without any modification so you will in fact gain a lot of time. With that little trick and that bowden conversion you might be able to go past 100mm/s safely and print even smoother.