Sovol SV06 vs Ender-3 S1 Pro vs Prusa MK3S - In-Depth Comparison
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2024
- 0:00 Introduction
0:38 The Price
1:09 Printing quality
1:21 Design
1:42 Assembling time
2:02 Spool holder
2:14 Printing volume
2:24 ABL sensor
3:34 Homing
4:00 Max temperatures
4:26 Bed mounting
5:08 Print surface
6:09 Z auto align
7:00 LED lights
7:23 Main boards
7:52 Spiral, vase mode printing
8:10 Power loss resume function
9:16 Screen
9:36 Plastic parts
10:25 Movement system
10:54 About bearings
11:15 Belt tensioners
11:48 Cable management
12:10 Filament sensor
12:30 About extruders
13:09 Part cooling
13:26 Tool box
13:37 Noise, cooling fans
14:18 SD, TF cards
14:37 M600 color change
15:23 Remaining time
15:58 Inserting the filament
17:20 Slicers
17:53 Short summary
18:14 Final words
If you have any suggestion to add/modify from the list, write me a comment. The list you can see at: www.mytechfun.com/video/251
Sovol SV06, Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro and Prusa MK3S(+) are very popular 3D printers, which are able to print on 300°C, they have direct drive extruders and dual Z axis. The price difference is huge, and in this video I am answering all those questions I got about these 3D printers (and much more).
3D printers from the video:
Sovol SV06:
- Review video: • Budget 3D printer able...
- Product page (affiliate): sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv...
Ender-3 S1 Pro:
- review video: • Pro or no? Ender-3 S1 ...
- Banggood (affiliate): www.banggood.com/custlink/3mm...
Prusa MK3S:
- Product link (affiliate): www.prusa3d.com/category/orig...
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#sovol #ender3 #prusa #3dprinting #creality #sv06 #ender3s1pro #prusamk3s - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Great comparison video. Using your list for comparing printers by price, really puts the SV06 way ahead of the competition. Keep up the great work.
Great video, Igor! Answered pretty much all of the questions I had when comparing the machines.
What a fantastic comparison, most detailed there is! Thank you, that's a great resource
Thanks, you make great videos.
I've had the sovol sv06 for a few days. and am very happy with it. will also exchange the linear bearings (misumi).
changing the filament is very easy with the sovol. maybe this is an updated version available now. you just have to wait until it beeps once and then simply take out the old filament and thread in the new one without using any force until you feel resistance. then hold it like this and just press the button and it will automatically pull it in. then he prints filament through and asks if it should be pushed through further. find it very useful
Great comparison. I'm impatiently awaiting my Sovol SV06. The value in this printer cannot be beat. While it hasn't got a filament sensor, it can be had for $15-20USD, and the board supports it. For hobby and recreational printing, the SV06 is the best deal available, period.
My friend and I also got a AnyCubic Chiron printer for $190CDN. That's going to be for collectibles and costumes. Can't wait!!!!
Great comparison! You helped me make up my mind on my purchase. Thanks very much!
The bushings on my MKIIIs are showing signs of wear and I had decided to replace them, Im glad you pointed out that Prusa are no longer using Misumi as I would have probably ordered them thinking they would be the Misumi ones, I will order them elsewhere, the ones Prusa are using are probably very good quality but I am of the "If it isn't broken dont fix it" school ,so will continue to use Misumi Bushings.
Wow, excellent review, touch all the relevant topics!
Great review and breakdown. You definitely went into a lot of detail on some small things that make quality of life differences that sometimes you really don't notice until you get a printer that doesn't have them. Keep up the great work!
Very informative and helpful, covering almost all bases
Very good. I missed some words but I got the gist. My local Prusa suppliers said he loves selling the Prusa because they just work and he spends less time dealing with customer issues. He was selling Creality I think he said and that 50% of his stock had faults. No, I'm not associated with Prusa or any other entity dealing with 3D printers. Like you, I am going to assemble and actually looking forward to that and learning how it all goes together. I see a lot of Prusa users on TH-cam and the common thread is that this make of printer works out of the box and I have been advised as a beginner to NOT try and tweak the printer, just use it and learn and because it is fuss-free I should be okay. Oh, and thank you for your informative video.
Thank you for this review!
The timing of this video was perfect for me. I was debating which of those 3 printers to get. The Prusa is nice, but in my mind the extra features do not justify the price. So, with the help of this video I'm going with the SV06. Right now it's $240 on sale so it seems like a lot of bang for the buck.
I own both an Ender 3 that is well setup and run a dual z motor setup, full metal hot end (+ high temp firmware) and a recent 4.2.7 board with 2225 drivers. It's a good machine, a little slow and loves to be wrenched on but, if I exercise patience it rewards me with exceptional prints. The nice thing about it is that it has taught me much about the hobby and how to properly build and setup a 3D printer in all aspects. For that reason, I will forever say they are great first printers.
My SV06 though is 100% stock and when I first received it and before assembly, I tore it down bit and packed the bearings It went together well and is easy to work on. Truth is, it prints on another level compared to my Ender 3 setup. Not to mention the Creality SV06 motherboard in my opinion is superior to the 4.2.7 Creality board. Overall the Sovol SVo6 holds it's physical settings better than the Ender and although requires more maintenance before use like making sure the rods are clean and friction free it is just overall a much more stable setup with imo better firmware functionality than my Ender 3.
I think the SV06 is a true bargain and an underrated little printer if you're looking to step up the accuracy on your functional printed parts easily vs and Ender 3. Hope you enjoy your new SV06!
I wish you did more printing tests like a torture test or print in place type prints to see how they all did in comparison. Other than that, great video
The temperature matters for leveling the bed no matter which printer you are using. You should always do abl when at operating temperature.
Great video - thank you
I have an Ender 3 v2 that I have modified with a Creality PEI build plate, Micro Swiss direct drive with BL touch and dual Z upgrade that is extended Z to 400mm. I have never felt the need for a filament run out sensor, but can easily add it. It's all the printer I need, although I think I am going to convert it to linear rails on the X and Y. I've made all of these modifications and still don't have the cost of a Prusa MK3S kit invested in it. The only reason I would ever get anything else is to get a larger build plate. But being an Ender 3, I can buy the parts to make bigger.
very well done thank you for info
great video!
Great video, thanks
Glad you liked it!
I really like your final verdict. I think the ender is best option of the three when you take into account the price, but the sovol is definitely quite good if you can't afford the ender 3 s1 pro
If you want an 3 s1 pro clone, there’s the Elegoo Neptune 3 pro. If you’re up in the $700 range, it’s silly to get anything other than a Bambu P1P in 2022.
Thanks for a great comparison, we can all decide how much each aspect should be worth, appearance is not that important for me but very important for some builders. Thanks too for commenting on how long it takes to assemble a printer, 10 hours for you will be a lot more for me! I took about 3 hours assembling my Ender 3 V2 as a novice and there was hardly any parts to assemble. I had to redo several things and had to find out about those roller adjustments the hard way.
Support, both from the supplier and the community, is very important. Are you able to assess this?
Then there is updating defects, my Sovol SV05 has a very poor direct drive extruder, the drive wheels are loose and misaligned, the filament is almost impossible to insert. These are design faults, I selected a few washers of the correct thickness to use as spacers to dramatically improve the filament drive wheels and had to file the area where the filament goes into the extruder to correct the misalignment. Sovol has been very slow in responding and still supply the same extruder. As far as I can tell this hasn’t changed, I bought a Sprite.
One comment on the filament holder, those easy to turn rollers that allow the spool to turn so easily can be a problem as the spool gets to the end and when the filament gets a fast pull. Turns can unroll themselves and cause loops of filament in the air, a bit of resistance is needed to prevent this. A “reverse Bowden” can do this or a small guide near the spool.
Great comparison.
I have the MK3S+ that I assembled myself. I find the PETG a bit soft, the holes for the hex nuts are horrible (square are fine), the bearings needed to be washed and packed with grease to get proper use, the mainboard and LCD are extremely outdated, and the PSU lacks cooling. You can print replacement parts, but I think Prusa should have engineered better parts already, since the community has done that for them. I think they've gotten lazy and stopped innovating on their flagship model.
Tell that to the Prusa fan boys, they are adamant that their printer is still the top of the line.
@@zero00tolerance I really like Prusa. I think they are doing some great things. I like the way they've made the MK3 upgradable over the years. I like that they use their own product to make more of that product. I think it's an extremely reliable product and very well designed. I really like Printables website, it's great. I think they've built a great community. I love their monthly design contests. I think Prusa has done a lot of really great things.
But, as an owner who built their own MK3S+, and as someone who is always looking at how things can be done better, the product is far from perfect and is past due for some upgrades and a refresh. It's good, but it could be much, much better.
Thank you for the video, now I can see the difference between them!
I own the Sovol and the Prusa, you can store different z-Settings for different Steel sheets with the Prusa ... just so you know. Then the change is real quick!
The sovol prints gread, but lacks in my eyes a few creature comforts. But i agree-Prusa is at the moment way too expensive!
Good comparison:)
that's what prusa is great at. they take a tried and true design and find ways to improve ease of use, and we take it for granted until we go to use other brands. also, the prusa can heat the nozzle and bed at the same time, while most budget printers have to heat one, then the other, as they don't have big enough power supplies. this saves a TON of time in an already time consuming hobby. their price isn't the best, but you do still get mostly name brand stuff, like the quiet noctua fans. i think the hot competition will make their prices lower eventually, especially with the new bambu p1p coming out at such a lower price
@@ame7165 Every Creality machine I own heats the nozzle and bed at the same time. Prusa won't drop their prices until they lose enough sales to make them. They have a wait time of people wanting to pay, shall we say a premium, for old tech printers they won't likely be dropping those prices in the near future.
@@gitss7367 without modifications? i did our sonicpad on mine, so maybe it defaults to that. wonder if i can change it
@@ame7165 Yep - You just click the PLA or ABS heating profile and both bed and nozzle heat up to the desired level (you can set that level at the configuration page). That's standard in the Marlin firmware. You can do the same when using a slicer. Just make sure it's in the start-up G-Code.
I spent extra to get the Prusa (kit) and I'm glad I did. It was way more than an Ender, but more luxurious and well supported. Plus Prusa seems like a very good company.
More Luxurious?
@@TheJacklwilliams Easier to use? I mean, automatic bed leveling, everything "just works", solenoids don't die after 6 months, lots of support... Ender is a great machine but more DIY. Maybe my 2nd or 3rd printer will be an Ender, once I'm closer to an expert!
@@ChickensAndGardeningPrusa is definitely more diy. Assembly of Ender 3 S1 takes 20 minutes vs 10 hours on Prusa.
@@DKFX1 Assembly of Ender in 20 minutes? That can't be a kit like Prusa3; maybe 4-5 pieces to screw together. Prusa kit is hundreds of pieces and took me two full days.
@@ChickensAndGardening Yes, the ender comes 90% assembled, that's why Prusa is more a DIY machine.
comparing how loud they are and how many watts they pull could also be helpful for your list.
With the pricing in my country here in EU the difference between the ender and prusa is actually Pretty small. I Chose the mk3s kit back in 2020. Not much other choice(then at least) if you want something that works out of the box, and has good support behind the Product, its also developed and produced in EU. I don't have to do any tuning, or modding, it just works, that's worth alot for some. Others love tinkering and upgrading their printers :) Though i agree its time for an upgrade of the mk3 design, don't care about colorful displays, i would like upgrades in other places for better size, functionality, auto tuning, servicing etc :)
Pretty Small? Really? You are joking, right?
Here in my country (The Netherlands) The Ender 3 Pro cost €489. The cheapest Prusa printer (kit form) is €849. That's a whopping €360 price difference. That's enough to buy a Ender 3 S1 non-pro (€359) on top of the Ender 3 S1 Pro. You can get two Ender 3 S1 for the price of the basic Prusa MK3 kit. If you buy the assembled version of the Prusa MK3, you pay €1139. That's a €650 price difference. For that price you can buy two Ender 3 S1 Pro's and with a €37 extra, you can even buy the Creality Sonic Pad (€198) on top of those two printers.
So - There are reasons to buy a Prusa printer, but the price is NOT that reason. The prices difference is FAR from small...
I just recently bought a Kingroon KP3S Pro, and I'll be buying a KP5L at some point soon. I think Sovol and Creality using just one stepper driver for both Z axis is a cost saving measure they really didn't need to do. They could have added another 2209 driver for separate Z axis and had a true Z auto align then made that a big feature. That alone may have persuaded me into getting an SV06 but they don't, so Kingroon here I come.
And I'll be changing my future KP5L to have two Z stepper drivers, changing all the drivers out for 2209 drivers, and installing my own custom Marlin firmware (the new one with input shaping). May also change it to an LGX Lite extruder instead of the clone Titan it comes with.
For anyone that reads this, if you want a 3D printer, I recommend the KP3S 3.0 from their website. Can't say enough good things about it (after you figure out how to get it level properly).
KP3S Pro is a great printer if size is enough. I recently tested KP5L too, but I don't have so positive experience like with KP3S.
Is using 1 stepper driver for both z steppers bad?
@@DrKleiner0815 No, until you don't move one side or the other (when motors are powerred off) That's why very common are versions, where Z axis are connected with timing belt too (Like here on S1 Pro)
@@MyTechFun ah, i get it thanks
Do you recommend removing the S1 Pro PSU when using an enclosure?
One of the advantages of sensorless homing is that it can also detect collisions
Oh, yes, I forgot to mention that. Once even it saved my longer printing on Prusa. Corner curl up, I was able to cut it off and continue the printing.
@@MyTechFun yeah pretty useful thats how i found out my self haha
Power-loss-Recovery on SV06 works the same way as MK3S does (uses PIN on Motherboard and writes on SD-Card only at the moment of power-lost, not every layer change (as seen in the firmware code).
*VIN voltage on Motherboard
I didn't tried that, thx. Isn't that much smarter solution than saving position after every Z change? Waste of resources.
@@danielreborn4707 Line 1391: "# define POWER_LOSS_PIN PC13 - Pin to detect power loss. Set to -1 to disable default pin on boards without module." in "Configuration_adv.h" Sovol SV06 Code. Of course everything works with current and voltage but motherboards also have "IO pins" (some of them free others not) for customization (f.e) If default pin is disabled then for each layer (Z-change) an entry is written to the sd card. That's how I understood it ;)
at the end of the day all using prusa in their test&review videos :)
Great job.... I have a (my first of 3 weeks ago) a Max Neo, price about $400. I am not really sure , still, what advantage I would get by spending almost 3 times that much on a PRUSA.
You get to go on all the youtube comments and say how much better your printer is. The Prusa Army is quieter now the Bambu Labs printers are out. Prusa does have better quality control.
Why even bother considering a Prusa at that price? Just get a Bambu for as you say 'for all the small advantages'. (But with the bambu it's massive advantages).
The best bed slinger is voron switchwire
❤
After watching a review on the Sovol SV05 prior to ThanksGiving by AuroraTech, I bought it. It’s a clone of the Ender 5 Pro (I always get it mixed up) with a direct drive extruder. I got the unit for 279.00 and it’s absolutely incredible. 32 bit creality board, cube design, auto-leveling. My first upgrade is going after the Creality Sonic Pad so I can take advantage of Klipper! Creality, beat Prusa a long time ago in price/value but, don’t ever forget Joseph Prusa and the machines they built, is why the rest is here. I HOPE they can up their game to compete either by creating more advanced machines and leading the way again or a combination of that and better priced units. This is my second printer. I’d have a Prusa already but I cannot afford it. My next build, will be the Voron.
How did it go putting the Sonic Pad on the SV05. Sounds like a good combo.
@@petercallison5765 Thanks Peter. Delayed a lil. Got tied up in a major work/facility move, overtime, non-stop stuff. I did manage to swap the standard bed out with a flex metalic w texture and I can say I absolutely love it. The pad, and some other upgrades are coming very soon! I’ve got four major projects to finish this year on that puppy! I am rather blown away by the quality and speed I’ve managed to get on a few different parts to date. Of course, part geometry comes into play huge but even so, I’m very satisfied by the little guy. Especially considering the price!
I was considering getting myself a Prusa for christmas, but honestly with the recent offerings from Sovol, FLSUN, Snapmaker and especially Bambu Lab I find it really hard to justify the cost. Probably best to wait, there seems to be a lot of activity in the $1000 range right now.
Great point. And yes, about price of Prusa, research work should pay of few years now. The real price could be much lower of MK3S. And it was very disapointing to see, for example they don't use Misumi bearings any more (but I am not 100% sure about this)
Haha why you talking with your face half covered by the ender 😂 good video regardless I think insulated bed is pretty important I wonder why prusa don't do it
I tried to point to small details as much as possible. Pity that my channels is small, probably manufacturers will not see it, but I believe that they could learn from it few things.
@@MyTechFun It might be small for now but it's definitely fun for us engineering type people 😀
I have the Sovol Sv06, and past 2 inches (50mm) in the Z axis, every print falls apart; the prints all come loose and there's spaghetti. I have tried glue, brims, re-calibrating everything (every time i run the machine), cleaning the bed with 99% alcohol, and even check the gantry at different height. I just can't seem to get it to work properly. The original issue was the the SD card was corrupted, and now it's just not having anything adhere to the upper right area of the build plate past 1 layer. After a few weeks of headaches, I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.
One chapter is missing: reliability.
And I'd say the most important one
I have an MKS3+ and been looking for a second printer. This was a huge help. The Prusa's line is just overpriced compared to how well the competition is improving.
Spvol sv06 vs Fysetc Prusa I3 clone?
I have them both, only the Fysetc Prusa clone is still in the box. BUT it didn't arrived with all metal hotend! (max temp 240°C in this case). So without upgrades to Fysetc kit, definatly SV06.
@@MyTechFun Thank you for your reply!:)
Is prusa original parts compatible with sovol sv06, or they are quite different and will not fit?
SV06 🔝🔝🔝 Prusa and S1Pro bullsht
ender3 s1 pro with sonic pad makes the cr touch go fast.
Hm, good to know. Thx.
@@MyTechFun Start Cura G-code :::::
G90
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
G1 Z2.0 F3000
G1 X5.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0
G1 X5.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15
G1 X5.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0
G1 X5.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30
G92 E0
G1 Z2.0 F3000
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0
Bonne fête 😁j’ai un cube flexible 50 mm. Qu’est-ce qu’il faut acheter ? Nanovia souple istroflex vs Raise3D Premium TPU-95A vs Recreus Reciflex 98A pour les filaments flexibles TPU Français.
Prusa is has brand recognition but is somehow losing market share to everyone.
The fact that Prusa hasn’t even tried to update/simplify the assembly is the biggest frustration.
With every new Sovol printer, the more impressed I am with them. Prusa is a great printer but IMO it's over priced for what you get. Creality , is in my dog house right now since mine are both in a broken state. They just need to stop releasing unproven new products.
I keep hearing these story's, but I am on my 4th Creality printer now. I had the original Ender 3, 2 times an Ender 5 Pro, and now en Ender 3 S1. All of them worked "out of the box" with a little leveling, and continued working after that without any problem. And no - I don't have 4 printers at home. The first 3 are at a local clubhouse, and I only own the Ender 3 S1 at home, and do some maintenance (sometimes replace worn out print nozzles or sometimes some de-clogging, and of course lubrication and so on) on the other printers. So far all printers are still up and running. And that first Ender 3 is doing that for years already...
You must be very unfortunate to have so much bad luck. I feel for you. It really sucks...
Get a voron
Working on it (0.1 but I can see new version is 0.2 :-( )
In the era of Vorons and Bambulab, I don't know who buys outdated and overpriced Prusa ?🙄
The overpriced Prusa 3D printer. Just insane how small it is compared to the other two printers
build size is real close though
insane how small? your dissing the other printers unintentionally. printbed is almost same yet the other printers are huge, that equals bad product design... thats why prusa is overpriced, the designers acrually spent money on developing it, hence its higher price
@@Tottorul Yet, the buyer decides to buy it or not. Common sense. I would buy an Ender 3s1 pro... hell.. even better a Bambu lab x1c over the Prusa MK4. Why? Because I would rather have more metal parts over 3D printed parts. I value durability over repair ability. It doesn't matter how much time the designers are going to spend on developing it, at the end of the day, the consumer decides whether or not it is worth it or garbage. because THEY bring the money to THEM.
@@Declopse so wrong its sad. of course spending money on design matters. most 3d printer manufacturers are borrowing design ideas first implemented by prusa. so many mamufacturers are freeloading off of other peoples effort and money, they would never exist without them... you buy prusa you get reliability (more so than bambu at this point) and durability. And you dont need aesthetic durability where there is little wear on a part. Give your money to Prusa and you know they will spend it on new ideas and refinement, worth every penny. I rather go mk4 than bambu still, but bambu is great, creality is a horrible lottery (along with many other chinese printers)
@@Tottorul You're just paraphrasing what I commented earlier. Do you really think 3D printed parts are more durable than metal parts? Get real. Stop hopping on that bandwagon of Prusa. And stop generalising on Chinese printers. A majority of Prusa's parts comes from Chinese manufacturers too anyways. When it's made in Prague doesn't mean the parts are. They're ''prepared'' for assembly in Prague. Keep humiliating yourself - it's beginning to get entertaining for me.
And all of them have a horrible mechanical design (bed slinger) xD
I am still waiting for a cheap Core XY which looks like it is happening with the Bambu Lab P1P.
Nothing wrong with a bed slinger, I have 2 core XY's and a bed slinger.
Bambu P1P is the future now no turning back
@@stevedegeorge726 They are an inferior mechanical design that´s all.
Prusa is simply overpriced. They print all parts instead molding, which creates a shortage and high prices and crazy preorder times, like 1 year. They have not adapted to their growth over the last years and are giving up A LOT of market share. Classic missmangement. The money will now go to Bambu Labs and Snapmaker (x1 and J1) - this is the new standard for a 1000+ $ printer. Prusa can't compete, no enclosure, double the price and still bedslinger.
I think the long pre-order times are not due to printed parts, it's because they source the hardware (electronics and metal parts) in Asia and supply lines have been struggling for a while.
If anything 3D printing on a huge print farms like Prusa would make them ship quicker than getting the parts imported.
Prusa is starting to look more more unappealing, 1000 euro printer that looks it's diy, ancient interface
Thanks for a great comparison, we can all decide how much each aspect should be worth, appearance is not that important for me but very important for some builders. Thanks too for commenting on how long it takes to assemble a printer, 10 hours for you will be a lot more for me! I took about 3 hours assembling my Ender 3 V2 as a novice and there was hardly any parts to assemble. I had to redo several things and had to find out about those roller adjustments the hard way.
Support, both from the supplier and the community, is very important. Are you able to assess this?
Then there is updating defects, my Sovol SV05 has a very poor direct drive extruder, the drive wheels are loose and misaligned, the filament is almost impossible to insert. These are design faults, I selected a few washers of the correct thickness to use as spacers to dramatically improve the filament drive wheels and had to file the area where the filament goes into the extruder to correct the misalignment. Sovol has been very slow in responding and still supply the same extruder. As far as I can tell this hasn’t changed, I bought a Sprite.
One comment on the filament holder, those easy to turn rollers that allow the spool to turn so easily can be a problem as the spool gets to the end and when the filament gets a fast pull. Turns can unroll themselves and cause loops of filament in the air, a bit of resistance is needed to prevent this. A “reverse Bowden” can do this or a small guide near the spool.