Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus Large 3D Printer 300x300x300
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- Sponsored by www.creality3d... (by Comgrow)
Chuck takes a look at the new Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus Large 3D Printer with a 300x300x300mm build area. Auto level, Direct Drive, and more. He compares it to the Ender 3 Max and goes through all the features including print quality. He even tests some 0.8 nozzle prints in this week's Filament Friday.
Buy and support the channel
Ender 3 S1 Plus from Creality3DOfficial.com(by Comgrow): bit.ly/3vqBrSs
Ender 3 S1 Plus via Amazon: amzn.to/3Bq52PG
Ender 3 Max ($269.00)
Creality3Dofficial.com (by Comgrow): bit.ly/3zawP3W
Via Amazon.com: amzn.to/3be9YN4
********* Cura Profiles Download Links: *******
Best (0.12) : thangs.com/fil...
Good (0.20) : thangs.com/fil...
Extra Fast (0.28) : thangs.com/fil...
Hyper Fast (0.32) : thangs.com/fil...
Filament Friday E-Leveler 2 for Bed Leveling:
amzn.to/3Yz3Vc2
Filament Friday Tool Kit:
amzn.to/2MOR00X
Filament Friday E-Leveler 2 for Bed Leveling:
amzn.to/3Yz3Vc2
Popular Prints:
CHEP Cube Test Print: social.thangs....
CHEP PTFE Cutter Tool: social.thangs....
CHEP Pawn: social.thangs....
********* $3 - Ender Style Cura Profiles Download Links: *******
Latest V5.x Profiles: rb.gy/5k981c
TPU Profiles: shorturl.at/V08bk
PETG Profiles: shorturl.at/RLEfI
(Free to Patreon Members)
**** Support the Channel *****************
Financial Support through Patreon:
/ elproducts
***** Ender 2 Pro *****
Creality Official Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/3tnLuHn
Amazon: amzn.to/3sLuSaW
***** Creality Ender 3 Pro: *****
Creality Official Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/2SIMa86
Bundle From MatterHackers: bit.ly/2FuKFpu
Note:
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
****************************************************
Filament Friday Sticker:
Send Self Addressed Stamped Envelope to:
Electronic Products
PO Box 251
Milford, MI 48381
****************************************************
Chuck's Arduino Book:
amzn.to/3tA31JP
Intro animation by Pablo Licari based on Filament Friday Logo by Brian Carter.
*************** Free Filament Friday Sticker **************
Send Self Addressed Stamped Envelope to:
Electronic Products
P.O.Box 251
Milford, MI 48381
**********************************************************
![[TH] RNT vs SPG - VCT Ascension Pacific - Day 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RUTkf8Detj8/mqdefault.jpg)
For the pieces stuck to the bed, you can print a cube or a flat sheet of material over top of them and then when you peel that off it should take those pieces off with it :)
Hi Chep. Great video! I recently found out that a large chunk of the S1 Pro's that have been sent out have a design flaw causing the y-axis to be bent. The adjustment was fairly simple easy and made a huge difference to my printer personally, and have heard same story from around the web, but many still don't know about it. I believe a lot of people would benefit from this info!
It doesn't involve any upgrades or add-on's just a few simple bolt-readjustments.
This bloke doesn't beat around the bush and doesn't hold back any punches. I'm not the biggest besdslinger fan but you always give me reasons to come back to them. Don't like the amount of models in the ender 3 line, even car manufacturers would chuckle (at most there should be a budget and high end (not necessary for each build volume, just if go big, go all out), no such thing is mid-range in this market without strange caveats. It's not mature like pc hardware market). Appreciate your work, mate!
I picked one up a couple weeks ago on sale for $450.00. I like the printer, but found that the stock bed springs allowed the bed to move to much. I changed the springs for silicone and it is much better now.
I have the Ender S1 and I've had my issues with stuff being stuck to the stock bed. Quick tip, heat the back of the build plate until the Pla or what ever material is stuck and scrape it off. I also find that using regular hand soap with a fingernail brush after every print I have less issues.
I had the same problem with my Ender 2 Pro bed. I cleaned it by using a heat gun to warm it up and a paper towel to rub it off. When I was done it looked like it was new.
I’ll try that. Thanks.
Let me guess next month they are going to release the S1 Plus Pro that has the metal break and charge $629 for it?
Haha.
Chep! Regarding your super profiles. Thomas Sanladerer just did a vid saying we should be using 0.6mm nozzles with the new Arachnid engine in Cura. Could you put up 0.6mm profile set? Or do we just need to change 0.4mm to 0.6mm? I'm guessing other settings must be updated as well. Thank you!
I’m working on 0.6 profiles
@@FilamentFriday What a champion you are!
@@FilamentFriday awesome!! When the 0.6 profiles are out I'm gonna switch nozzle
I own a S1 Pro and just changed 3 settings though I'm still using a 0.4 nozzle. I've changed the nozzle size as if it is 0.6 and upped the printing speed to 70mm/s. Then I'm also upping the nozzle temperature to 210°C to accommodate the "extra" 0.2mm nozzle size. Furthermore I print at 0.28 layer height. Prints are ultra smooth without any post-processing.
Thanks for showing us the new Ender 3 S1 Plus but I'm thinking the Ender 3 Max with a few upgrades would be a better deal.
the 0.4nozzle is sort of being phased out for general use. the reason is - the data shows thicker walls shows part strength over 'more infill' when using some logic. (eg: you don't need 100% infill to make strong parts, just a few more walls) printing wider, has resulting in some outstanding quality and fast prints - the 'downside' is losing detail that might be present. I wouldn't suggest printing minis or even the small text on a Benchy with it, as it is likely to not come out with crisp detail - but for FFF in general, your always going to lack quality when it comes to minis. (Get an affordable resin printer for those) Yes - the ender3 is capable of printing minis for tabletop games at rather great quality and such - but it will cost in time and there will always be some loss in those detail.
The general use prints, like larger objects, masks, containers, phone docks, etc - all print better and faster with wider nozzles.
While your data suggests your super fast settings are better overall, I would guess this comes down to tuning to a 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzle over the 0.4. Also - at 0.4mm I usually print at 0.52 thickness, giving it an even smoother appeal. (the extra wide gets self-ironed by the edging of the nozzle as it prints) this has also saved me time, as it needs fewer passes to make my wall thickness. Using CURA 5.0 also has the Arachne Engine - which helps optimize prints by having variable width as it prints - this has also improved things overall, and is slowly being implemented into Super Slicer and Prusa Slicers so they too can benefit from it.
Overall though I just have to disagree with the Ender3 S1 Plus being a good printer. Yes, it prints, it prints well, and it has some nice upgrades, but it still lacks the all metal hotend (a small extra price and DiY fix) - and if your going to DiY - you can turn the older models into similar S1 printers , for less cost. For the selling price of the S1 it should have been full metal and all the bells and whistles, it is breaching into the price range of the Kits for Prusa and other 'high quality printers' - but still being Creailty - which isn't that great of a quality. (bent lead screws, warped beds, bad wiring, even dangerous wiring practices, etc)
But it's hard to say things like that, when they sponsored this video eh?
I would love to see you tune for a 0.6mm nozzle, and a super fast version of Cura5 with the 0.6
it's official, I have now totally lost count of E3 variants
Me too.
Wait for the ender 3 neo line
If thats the same magnetic bed sheet that comes with the s1 pro, once you have your z set well, even huge prints have no issues coming off. it sticks when its hot but once it cools it pops off easy.
Great review, as are all of yours. I bought the S1 Plus after watching your review and a couple of others. Went for Plus over Pro because I have an Ender 3 with a few minor upgrades, but wanted larger bed capability for my next printer. Easy to assemble and printed great out of the box, but you NAILED IT when you said the bed material is a BEAR to remove print material from. Also having first layer problems on subsequent prints. Going back to leveling again, but not sure if it is that or the material, so will troubleshoot further. Big issue cleaning the print bed between mistakes!. I was going to add the metal heatbreak, and bought one with the Printer, but realize after seeing your video, it is NOT a drop in part and I need the kit with the new heat block. I am a 76 year old retired tech sales guy that got into this for a hobby a couple of months ago...still learning through mistakes;-)
Great videos and thanks for any other suggestions on the S1 Plus.
I bought one three days ago... I'm suffering a lot with problems with the material adhesion, adjusting the gaps in the rollers, gripping the table.
One day I'll solve it, not giving up before.
If that sticks even better than the glas bed, that terrifying. Every print on my stock glass bed I wonder if the print (or glass) will break before it releases.
4 years later and I still haven't found a good reason to replace my CR-10S. Outside of the separate control box I love the thing. Only thing I've done to it is a bed level sensor and removed the springs for solid mounts.
I've got the Ender 3 Max and have considered a second printer already and have been eyeballing the S1 series. I like the features but agree that $529 feels a bit steep for it. Thanks for the overview!
want to know upgrade 300 C hot end for my S1 Plus and complete setting
Thank for your channel
I am confused, you said you had problems with the bed not being level, but its auto leveling, are you saying it does not work well ?
I picked this printer up about a month ago and after adding a all metal heatbreak and pei bed it's a okay printer except for the horrible auto leveling that gives inconsistent readings.
something that none of you guys show is layer alignment, that for me would be a strong selling point , i've seen prints of a prusa printer that still have layer alignment issues, good an ya chuck :)
My go to channel! Thanks for doing this.
Amazing as always. Thanks Chuck.
tip for getting the pla of the bed heat it up to 100c then the pla turns into elastic and it pulls over very easy. Got new s1 first print ended up worse than your bed and i gave up picking it after 1hr
My e3max shipped with runout sensor and all metal heat break (just lucky i guess). I think they just use whatever is laying around when they assemble them
FYI: The Ender 3 Max comes with a filament runout sensor. My Ender 3 Max has the sensor, and the Creality Web site shows the sensor on the product page.
Great video!
They’ve apparently upgraded since mine. I didn’t see it listed in the website either.
@@FilamentFriday I purchased mine last year (April, 2021), which I believe was after you received yours. Creality doesn't include a runout sensor in the description, but does show it in the product images. Having said that, we know that Creality changes products without notification :)
The plus is on sale for $320 at the moment
The Ender 3 Max does include a filament runout sensor. You got ripped off if you didn’t get one with yours.
Granted I don’t use it anymore because the sensor is terrible. And it doesn’t line up with a double gear extruder.
My Ender-3 Max came with the filament runout sensor included. Just an FYI.
Mine did as well.
Fantastic review, Chuck! Thanks a lot! 😃
I'm definitely interested in this one! It seems amazing!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I got this for 400$, this thing rules.
same
Friking cheap
An acrylic/lacquer solvent works for me to remove residual pla from printing surfaces.
I wish Creality would focus on refining their existing models rather than coming up with a new sku every time they come up with a minor improvement.
I also wish they would but Making a quality product makes creailty no money. they don't want to improve the old model they want to continue to add small changes and then rush the product out as quickly as possible before someone else does it cheaper and faster better than them and it's not hard. What creailty have is a massive footprint in the market they are well known unlike other brands that may have a better product for cheaper. It's unfortunate that people new to the hobby will run into issues expecting something to work semi well out of the box.
your hyper fast works great cr10 v3 hotend changed to a h2 v2 prints fine and quick thankyou
I don't know why but if you use the a 0.8 nozzle and increase the layer hight to 0.36 the print time goes up rather than down compered to the standard 0.32
Interesting
Waiting for firmware that will let the S1 Plus print at 300 degrees and, hopefully, get the bed temperature up to 110 degrees (like the S1 Pro).
Waiting on this too before possibly pulling the trigger on one of these!
@@AntiHeroFett The more I read/watch, the more I'm thinking, "Do I really need polycarbonate?" Carbon-infused PETG can be printed at 260 (as can nylon) and with the "Creality Official Sprite Extruder Upgrade Heater Block Kit" for $32 at Amazon, it'll do that comfortably. Check out PETG (in its many varieties). It MIGHT be enough...
@@workingTchr I actually pulled the trigger on an S1 Plus maybe an hour ago. I found a good deal for $415 on FB Market place and thought, why not for that price new in box. I figure with the money I saved, I'll put that towards upgrading the necessary components and wait for the firmware update. In the meantime, I can experiment with other filaments as I learn the hobby. My reasoning for wanting to go hotter is I'm into RC Cars and durability for printing your own parts is a big deal when these things reach speeds of 50+mph. Being able to print Nylon and ABS out the box is awesome, but I'd love to be able to print with some of the higher temp filaments and field test the durability with those as well
@@AntiHeroFett Congratulations! At these prices, for what you get, if you're the kind of person who likes making things, it's an absolute no-brainer to have a 3D printer. Actually, I don't know how I've held out this long.
@@workingTchr Thanks...and same here on the hold out. With interest over the years in costuming, RC Hobbies, custom parts for my actual car, prototyping ideas and testing viability for other varying interest...it was only a matter of time and well overdue to jump into this. It definitely unlocks another level of creativity and fabrication. Wish this kind of thing was around 20 years ago! I know this is considered entry level/budget relatively speaking, but I've see some amazing prints with this level of printer and comparable build volume. Check out Frankly Built's channel to see his amazing Iron Man costume printed on older the CR-10's using PLA filament. Even with the need for proper finishing, it's amazing to see what's possible. Good luck on your quest and if I hear anything on that firmware I'll get back to you over here! Cheers!
how can i change my S1 plus so that it can print at a hotter temperature like the S1 pro?
Can you please share your extra fast profile.
We just bought one, it has a faulty SD card slot. The UK vendor and Creality are dragging their heals with replacement. Absolutely terrible support. So we haven't managed to print a thing and nobody is willing to replace it or supply a new main board.
I scanned through the comments and didn't find what I am looking for. Sorry if it has been covered already. I just got the S1 Plus. Creality Slicer has the S1 Plus in their list of printers, but Cura doesn't. I found a web page that says to select the S1, but it isn't in the list in my Cura latest version 5.1.1. I selected the 3 Pro and changed the print volume sizes and renamed it Ender-3 S1 Plus. When I added my Ender-3 Pro, it names it Ender-3 Pro #2. I tried to rename it to just Ender-3 Pro, but Cura won't change the name. I have been using Creality Slicer, but want to switch to Cura because the files I want to print are set up with it. I am building the Tourbillon Mechanica Tri-Axial.
I scanned through the comments and it seems to me that the S1 Pro is much better value for money except for the larger bed size.
I have one and love it, but I feel like the level doesn't work right and things don't stick well
thanks
The problem with the print bed is huge, i kinda destroyed my print surface on my 2nd print, i had the Benchy on all prints.
Now i use g10
With all these Ender 3 on the market and being available new or even used it would be cool to have something like an overview video what has changed over the years and what are the big milestones to consider when buying such an Ender 3.
As I recall right you could print pretty descend with an OG Ender 3. What has changed till now what makes the 3D printing experience so much better? Is it AutoLeveling? Is it the stepper motors and quieter fans? Is it all about the printing volume?
It could be a really fun video to look back and compare the machines ... on Filament Friday! ;o)
Greetings from Germany!
I see the S1 Plus is lacking a Filament Friday logo. 😲 Sorry Creality. Not impressed. 😉
No real new innovations from Creality recently, same format based on Ender 3, but just added a few whistles and bells here and there. They need to take a leaf from bamboo labs and bring something new and innovative to the market. The addons are nothing that you can't live without and as long as the prints have the same quality why pay so much for a smaller cr10? I really like my Creality machines, but after all this time I'm surprised they haven't pushed the goalposts and set the new standard again... Looks like Bamboo Labs have the ideas just the price point needs to come down a little to hit the lower end market then Creality may do something.
What makes you think Creality would be able to bring the same kind of innovation as Bambu lab?
My Max has a filament sensor in front of the extruder.
the good adhesion wouldnt let you bring your bed farther from the nose? that wouldnt be good for not squishing filament in the first layer??
That looks a nice bit of kit, shame about the small things that seam to let it down.
Be Awesome to see these profiles make it to 5.2 or maybe tell us the hacks so we can set them in the newer or older versions - sense 5.2 will not allow those profiles to be loaded in ... idk - probably hear that a lot. Either way love the show and thank you for your videos!!! I say this mostly cause I got a ender 3 s1 plus before Christmas last year started getting really good prints, but now I have upgraded the heat break and loaded in new .6 mm nozzles and for the life of me cannot get rid of at least wispy strings on a .6 mm - i was not getting that problem ... I've spent some time on it now, I'm using mk8 a2 high speed micro swiss steel plated ws2 coated, then tried regular micro swiss a2 .6 mm steel plated, still just cant get rid of the strings - idk maybe its the filament just so many things to check flow rate, e steps, etc which I have.. but I find that really nuts, maybe I'm just using the wrong kind of .6 mm what .6 mm nozzles do you generally throw on a ender 3 s1 plus? I'm trying to fix stringing with out have to upgrade the stock cooling, its really odd the bump up with the newer 5.2 cura is struggling so bad with the larger nozzle, I even had that .4 mm nozzle running great with .6mm line width faster speeds... or do I just need to go to klipper
Which is better, the pro or plus? The pro is full metal. But right now, the plus is on sale
Hi Chep great video as always. I upgraded my Ender 3 V2 with the Sprite pro extruder. I just can’t find the filament holder that comes with the S1. Is there a place to purchase or a file for it? I’m trying to use my existing filament sensor and just can’t find a way to mount it on top.
Can you come up with a 0.8 Fast Profile!? Please 🙏
Working on it.
@@FilamentFriday You're awesome Sir!
Could you make and extra fast profile for the 0.8 nozzle?
Working on it.
Quick question, I just got one of these yesterday and everything works great except the heated bed slowly cools once a print starts. I have no clue what would cause this but does anyone?
How do ya like where the filament runout sensor is 🤔
sir please try the speeddrive v1, I would like to see how you set it up
I bought a regular Ender 3 S1 about a week ago. The bed material sucks. First print, it fused to the bed. My e steps were off, under extruding. The x belt wasn't even close to tight, terrible layer shifting. The bed wheels weren't tightened correctly. I have spent a week trouble shooting and wasting a lot of filament. And I'm still not confident it will print without problems. If I were new to 3d printing, for a $400+ printer, I would have sent it back. It's been pretty disappointing.
If you are new to printing you should understand you get what you pay for. If you do your due diligence and research the product I knew it had alot of flaws before I bought it. if you want something reliable you spend 4 times as much on a prusa. For $400+ it's very normal to have this quality or less. So I don't know what you expect for your money because it sounds like you got exactly what you paid for a bunch or cheap parts worked into something that looks polished.
You might have gotten one of the printers with a bent y-extrusion due to overtightening. The fix on most of them is pretty easy.
is this printer worth buying any pros or cons wit this printer ?
I have a Ender 3 pro, kinda. With the 300XL ENDER EXTENDER kit, is it a ender 3 max , Ender 3 S1 max ,or a S 10 now?
i upgraded my ender 3 pro recently with a sprite all metal hotend, bltouch and 4.2.7 silent board (i had to compile my own marlin, was fun).. im wondering tho, where can i get a model for the filament holder so that it points to the front for the direct drive? or file so i can print it?
That bed is a seesaw. Would just get an ender 5 plus & add direct drive.
'bed slinger' yea --at the price point it should have been a much better solution than just removing the weight of the glass bed, and some tweaks in software from newer mainboard to help prevent ringing. the price point is the biggest killer on this machine, printing that big (taking up say 280 wide and 280 tall) there are much better options, for around the same price point, or if your willing to double the price, a few kits and self-sourcing that have fast coreXY printers that will eliminate the bed ringing completely, print faster at the same accuracy or better, and have that all metal hot end. I just can't get behind the product for it's cost, especially knowing Creality has had its QC drop drastically over the last couple of years with bad/dangerous wiring, warped beds, bent lead screws, etc. Sure, they aren't "every printer" but they are enough that they caused a stir in the community
@@xXKisskerXx what is your recomendation then?
Looking forward to that recommendation.
I fing love you you fing chep
Well, I really don't know how you could get stringing when you print a cylinder, the hot end never leaves the print and does not travel in open air to another spot on the print. Since I've used your retraction settings, I never have an issue with stringing unless I used really crappy filament. My E3 max however does have that wobble on the right side no matter how I adjust the rollers or the carriage. The z axis never seems to keep going up enough with tall prints like it's digging into the print. I have had to tweek the screws to lower the bed a little bit every so often and when I get done and set the printer to home it's more than 1/16 of an inch gap or more from the bed. any thoughts about historizes on this printer.
should i buy this printer ?
All these countless replications of Ender-3 says Creality is in creativity and evolution crisis and that they haven't come up with anything truly innovative/breakthrough
Not at all. It says the Ender 3 is good as it was a, and customizing it just makes a good thing even better.
Personally I don't think that I would buy the S1 Plus for that price as the only benefit IMHO is the larger print bed. Creality is missing the plot here with the Standard Sprite extruder. The S1 Plus is most definitely NOT value for money when compared to the S1 Pro.
You’re able to upgrade the heater block and the heatbreak to a bimetal heatbreak (copper/ titanium).
By utilizing these two upgrades, you’re able to print at 260C comfortably without worrying about the burning of the PTFE.
I’m still waiting on the firmware to push this heater block the advertised 300C, that’s the only downside I’m having at the moment.
For now, I’m fine with the 260C limitation.
I do not think the ptfe on the plus actually goes down to the nozzle, pretty sure thats just an insert, if its the same sprite from the S1 pro...
Irs not its the same sprite fron the s1 only the s1 pro has all metal
I show the picture of the PTFE section with the nozzle removed. It touches.
Are you using the same retraction settings that are in your profiles on this machine? Since this uses a direct drive. I've read you have to lower the retraction distance and increase the speed.
Reduce it to 1-2 mm
Can you 100% The S1 Plus can be upgraded to a all metal hot end??? Do you have a link? I watched one of your previous videos were you upgrade the S1 hot end but you say the shaft was larger size?
Do they have an profile for the ender 3s1 plus in cura
Try putting your stuck print in the freezer - this has worked for me many times .
Tried it. Didn’t work.
When I had a layer sticking that was too thinto remove I either printed something over it and removed it that way or I took a piece of filament and alighter and picked up each residual object by fusing the piece of filament to it and pulling it off.
How often do you need to perform the leveling.
Do you need to re-level it every time you power it on?
Only when necessary. When 1st layer looks bad.
@@FilamentFriday thanks
On my S1 Pro I set it once and have been printing nearly 24/7 for 2 months without any problems.
hi just bought one and im having a lot of layer shift, on the y axis ( the bed) even using default profiles with creality slicer and cura. Also checkd the belt and the wheels and they seem tight what could be the problem?
hi, did you manage to fix it? I just ordered one and want to be prepared :) thanks!
I was having that problem and found the lock nuts on the wheels were not tight enough, allowing them to loosen over time. Tightening them and cleaning the tracks fixed it.
Would heating the bed help with getting that stuck print off?
No, I tried.
Can u set the Z-offset on the ender 3 s1 plus
Most 3D printers are overpriced for the amount of tech that they come with. Not worth $500. For that kind of money, you’re better off saving a little more for a Voron or Ratrig.
That's not true in my experience. The S1 and S1 pro for example saves you between $80 and $120 instead of buying a base model for $200 and upgrading the parts individually .
@@DKFX1 Also it saves you the time to have to buy the upgrades and install and setup them up. I bought the S1 Plus and it has everything ready right out of the box. I have the 3 Pro and added dual z axis, a BLTouch, a direct drive extruder, and the BTT Mini3 V2.0 board with TFT display. If I had to do it again, I would buy one with this stuff already installed if the price is reasonable.
Hey my ender 3 max came with a preinstalled filament sensor so i dont really uderstand why your machine doesnt have one
Mines older and the website doesn’t call it out.
How do u add the ender 3 s1 plus profile in cura
Hi. Can i install the ddrive with the bed level on my ender 3pro? My board is creality 4.2.7 32bit
anything wrong wit this printer ?
Is there a Slice Copperhead heatbreak to fit the direct drive?
Not sure.
I’ve read a number of articles encouraging me to upgrade the firmware in my Ender 3 S1 to Klipper. Are there any downsides that I should be aware? Thank you.
You can always go back if you don’t like it.
Try to test the creality cr10 smart pro , It is really high quality.
I tried it. Did not like it at all so it never made the channel.
@@FilamentFriday Can you share some thoughts on why you disliked it?:)
Good afternoon, are you going to do a review of the Geetech A10T, A20T and/or A30T 3-filament 3D Printers? TIA
No plans. I found their quality really bad in the past when I reviewed their other printers.
We love CHEP because he teaches us how to use the printer we already have and doesn't try to sell us other brands or new models all the time. We're dialing in the machines that we know and love.
do u enjoy this printer ?
I love your videos! They helped me so much with my first printer, the Ender 3 V2. However, I recently got an Ender 3 S1 Plus, and noticed Cura didn't have any profiles for this model, so I joined your Patreon as a supporter to get access to all your print profiles (and hopefully one for the S1 Plus as well!) However, I can only access the Patreon page/feed, and when I try logging into the CHEP CLUB website, it doesn't recogize my username/email or password, as if I don't have an account. Can anyone tell me if these are separate logins, or if I'm missing where to find these profiles on the Patreon page? Thanks in advance, and keep up the great videos!
Thank You for your support. Sent you a message in Patreon regarding login. My latest are also available on thangs. th-cam.com/video/zAEjGEvtL28/w-d-xo.html
So can I just upgrade to the all metal hot end (and steel nozzle) and be able to print higher temp materials such as nylon(x)? I'm torn between the s1 pro and the s1 plus.
Yes.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks! This truly helps me in choosing.
Creality is so confusing.
Can you replace the bed with a glass one?
Sure.
This printer is giving me a really hard time with the autolevel. It just never seems to be level.
That's why you should manually level it aswell with paper
@@Hanzi2u yes, that is a given. But that solves nothing because something in the firmware is causing it to forget the z-offset. Lots of people are having this problem with the S1s.
@@ajlbeer @CHEP can you look more into this? Its like the s1 range and the CR touch is not compatible
I have an Ender 3 S1 Plus. It is not my first printer. I have had a CR-10s for a few years. The Ender is new and I have had it about a week or so. I can't seem to get the bed to be consistently level. I can set my bed level using manual and auto level and run a print and, after my print, check my level on the manual mode and it will be too tight even though it was set right prior to making one print. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Try this th-cam.com/video/_EfWVUJjBdA/w-d-xo.html
Same here, this is my third Creality Ender machine, and by far the worst to try and get level. Try heating the Hotbed and re-levelling, while it is hot (don't know if you already tried this) it seems to show up any ups and downs in the hotbed due to expansion better and you can set the Z azis more accurately. It has not been a perfect fix for me but it did help.
👍🏻👍🏻
Mr Chep could you possibly make your cura 5 profiles easier to obtain As not everyone is as computer savvy as you I have no clue what s 3mf is or even where to locate it in your Cults page Which is another issue that I have to join another app just to get them
Thanks for listening
his links currently go to Thangs ( a search for 3d models and such that is quickly replacing thingaverse due to thingi's changes in what they allow), the *.3mf* file format is designed for 3d models, it comes with a 3d model to test print (his CHEP logo with FFEF 0.28) to print and confirm quality, the instructions tell you to open the .3mf file using Cura, as a new project (don't just import models) and then you will have the profile ready to save and adjust as your own. (in my case, the PLA I love actually hates 60C beds, so I have to go with 50C to prevent warping/curling, etc)
@@xXKisskerXx thank you for Rrply but I really dint understand where this 3mf thing is located and his files where never on thingaverse they where very simple to download and import .But thank you very much for your help But unfortunately it makes no sense to me I'll just have to live without his files Thank you again for your time and effort
@@xXKisskerXx I know they go to thangs and I simply do not know how to download them Page makes no sense and is overly complicated but I guess that was by design thank you again
I love thingaverse personally I think thangs sucks But hey thats just me . Tk u again
does this come with an Magnetic build plate ?
Yes, I’d recommend upgrading it though to a PEI powdered coated sheet though.
@@timmiles5245 why’s that 🤔
@@monsterstorm78 from experience the bed just is not that well made and the texturing wears quickly.
@@monsterstorm78 it’s really my only gripe with the printer
@@timmiles5245 hows the interface on the ender 3s1 plus
It's far too much money imo, most people could get by with an ender 3 pro and if you have the budget for a five hundred dollar printer spend the difference on a resin printer.
Firmware on this machine is terrible...the ender 3 pro had better functioning firmware...i have had nothing but problems with it.
creality kinda sucks honestly. It's good for your first printer, but don't get one for your second. There are better products for around the same price most of the time.
Hi, can you recommend a printer within $1K?
Lot of people like the Prusa MK3S+ for $799 as Kit, $1099 assembled.
Go ahead and name one. I dare you
Bottom frame of what?
@@FilamentFriday Ender 3 S-1 plus
Well it's a little strange. Amazon advertised an Ender 3 S-1 Plus PRO. Yes, a Plus/
Pro amd it has this port on the bottom frame RH lower side.
It is advertised as a 300C hotend...but it's not...so they sent me free of charge a new Sprite head that actually is rated for 300C. i
There are three, stepper, runout sensor and LED lighting (on Pro).