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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- *WARNING* Working with any fuel systems or direct contact with gasoline or flammable liquids is extremely dangerous. This can cause major injury or death. This video is for educational purposes and use of this knowledge is at your own risk. RCCamaro cannot be held responsible and doing this is done at your own risk.
Walk through to locate the fuel pump without dropping the tank and cutting a hole in the rear seat to access it. PLEASE WATCH THE WHOLE THING OR SKIM IT TO KNOW WHERE THE LOCATION IS. Made a mistake thinking it was one place but was somewhere else. Lesson learned but hey now i can make adjustments as needed ;). Some parts may not line up on the fuel pump but should be able to make it work as I did. Links below for the fuel pump I got.
LT4 Fuel Pump with Sending Unit:
www.summitraci...
Sponsor:
@JbaSpeed - www.jbaspeedshop.com
Affiliations:
IROC Motorsports - www.irocmotorsports.com
@shinearmor - www.shinearmor...?sca_ref=3582327.lIXmFlu97p
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I would not butcher my car like this , remove the tank
This wasn't supposed to turn out like it did. After looking into the location of where the pump was and honestly guessing where it was made it come out worse. You don't have to do this but for some This is the only option.
i have a 2018 camaro ss it shows the codes P069E and P2635 and i run e85 and daily drive it, race it here and there on weekends do u think is due to a bad fuel pump? or a bad fuel pump control module? was your issue similar ?
I can't remember exactly what the codes where but the one code I was getting was for the hpfp not getting enough psi to deliver and to us we think it had to do with my in tank pump. Since then the code I did get was for a short circuit for the FPCM and we tuned it out. Car has been running great since then and hasn't gone into limp mode. I would say if you're modded and on e85, you could be at the limit of what the in tank pump can do. Unfortunately I cannot look up the SS codes but I would think it's just at its limit of what the pump can provide.
@@RCCamarowas the fuel pump on the passenger side?
@@kebirbro6638 it is on the passenger side
@kebirbro6638 Yo i got the same codes, did you figure out what the problem was ?
@@kebirbro6638bro i have same codes, did u find out what the problem was on yours ?
Invest in a home carpet cleaner with a thin carpet attachment, got it.
Gnerally, still the same precuations for any dealings with fuel repair/upgrades.
Exactly. Or good brushes
insted of screw why didnt you heat up the end and squeeze with pliers
I didn't want to risk damaging the pump as that plastic looks like it may have a high temperature melting point. Plus I wasn't even sure if it was going to work haha. It was a temporary thing until I could find a way to plug it properly.
Is that supposed to get capped
@@RCCamaro do you need to cap that t section off? I'm at that point and I'm unsure what I need to do with that
@nickkrajina from my understanding ZL1s have an auxiliary fueling system which I believe that is for (don't quote me haha) but I capped it because I believe you will lose fuel pressure from there. I didn't try it butbi would cap it with something. I used a screw and made sure it was secure before installing.
Did you have to tune the FPCM after putting in the new fuel pump? Because mine won’t start anymore and it’s giving a P069E code
My car started right away and the only code it threw was a low HPFP code but didn't go into limp mode. I actually drove it around for maybe 2 weeks before tuning the car. I can't find much on that code but I won't be too much help since my car is a V6 so it might be slightly different for your car.
I would double check that all the hoses were clipped in and that all the plugs are in all the way. Also before starting the car, hold the ignition button until it goes into accessory mode and see if you can hear the pump turn on.
so if i were to go E85 and be doing daily driving and hard driving here and there, you think i could get by without a LT4 pump swap? and did you need a revised tune to be able to drive on it right when you installed?
Yea if you're not planning to be racing constantly then you should be ok but if you decide to want to push the car more then you will want to swap the fuel pump
What codes was the car throwing? And also when the pump went out did your fuel gauge drop to E randomly too?
So the code I was getting was a "short to ground" code and we tuned it out. We think it's the fuel management module that thinks the pump is burned out but it just runs better. My gauge never dropped but we saw it was running out of fuel. If the gauge is dropping its your fuel sending unit that's going out
@@RCCamaroso I just literally got doing the same thing you did. And im still getting the same codes I was before. So you said after you got it retuned everything works well?
And it also the gauge still keeps dropping
@Parmezon yea the FMM is used to a specific resistance from the fuel pump and will continue to show there is something wrong even though the car is running fine. I could do pulls and after about 4.5-5k rpm the check engine light would come on but it wouldn't go into limp mode or act weird.
@@Parmezon did you reuse your old float or did the pump come with a new one?