I used a die grinder that took me 45 minuets to do the cuts for rod bolt clearance. I understand from other people that have done 350 blocks for 383 I got really lucky in the kind of 350 block I had. I used Eagle 6-inch rods that are made to clear cam lobes
It is not likely a 400 crankshaft as many assume these days. It has the same stroke of 3.750" as the 400 has. But people forget to actually make a 400 crank fit in a 350 block you have to do much more work than just rod clearancing as this video shows. The main journal diameter on a 400 crank is 2.650" and the 350 has a 2.450". You would have to spend money to have an original 400 crank mains machined down .200". You can buy a 383 stroker crank from scat cheaper than what it would cost to machine an old 400 crank. Just throwing this out there.
not just in between the lifter bore but on the upper side of the cylinder boar itself? people are too worried about all the no brainer shit to even notice
I think the 350 has a stroke of 3'/ 1/4 " then the 383 using a 400 SB crank uses a stroke of 3'/3/4 " so what a change in length of stroke. I use Eagle 6-inch rods for the 383 I did that I understand adds in torque and longevity of the engine life . I am changing out a used up and tiered old 454 in a 1988 1 ton Chevrolet to the 383 stroker for my work truck which I am a Hunting & fishing guide that tows almost daily a 28-foot jet boat to work and then back home.
Problem is to many old blocks are full of rust. When you grind them for clearance they break into the water jacket. Block fill not good for street use. Have to run oil cooler. Selling my block and sticking with the good old 355 on boost.
Here is one for you that many of us wish we could find. So, I am a fishing guide then I move operations to Ketchikan Alaska. Because SE Alaska towns don't have roads going or out the locals behave like pigs throwing home garbage and junk in the woods on end of old logging roads and one thing common find is used up engines so when I left Ketchikan AK, I had 5 350 SB with ages from 1975 to 2 of them with the 1-piece seals. I sold 4 of then is day's using craigslist auto parts then one with the 1-piece seal was rebuild then put into one of my trucks. So, a free SB block is quiet the haul and the 4 other SB sold paid for much of the gas to go home. I know of 26 other blocks I left because the SBs had been rolled over a cliff so next time back, I am using the winch to get the blocks up to the truck. One of the 350 blocks I left has the Camel hump heads but it is 100 feet down a 45-degree cliff so next time it is getting winched out Knowing I can sell the 350 blocks fast at $350 a block makes it worth winching the blocks out.
Yes EZ job. Just go slow and do it with crank and rod mocked up stop at .060 to .080 clearance. Honestly I have never had to notch the bottom of the cylinder on the cam side like is shown. But that said I never used a oem 400 crank and oem rods always aftermarket crank and rods
This video is worthless, Its a CNC and the length or type of rod used will dictate how much material needs removed not so much the stroke, Some rods are made for 'Stroker' apps. and don't require anywhere near what's being removed, Length of rod also matters as Dwell changes
You're the only one I've seen that shows to clearance the bottom of the bores as well. I had to do that with my scat procomp rods on my 383.
this is to easy LOL i wish i had something to do it for me.great video
Nice work.
I used a die grinder that took me 45 minuets to do the cuts for rod bolt clearance.
I understand from other people that have done 350 blocks for 383 I got really lucky in the kind of 350 block I had.
I used Eagle 6-inch rods that are made to clear cam lobes
Connection rod bolts will hit the edge of the oil pan surface and bottom of the cyl heads when using a 400 crank in a 350 block to make a 383.
@gordysuggs it's a 350 block, it needs clearance for a 400 crank to transform this block into a 383 stroker.
It is not likely a 400 crankshaft as many assume these days. It has the same stroke of 3.750" as the 400 has. But people forget to actually make a 400 crank fit in a 350 block you have to do much more work than just rod clearancing as this video shows. The main journal diameter on a 400 crank is 2.650" and the 350 has a 2.450". You would have to spend money to have an original 400 crank mains machined down .200". You can buy a 383 stroker crank from scat cheaper than what it would cost to machine an old 400 crank. Just throwing this out there.
not just in between the lifter bore but on the upper side of the cylinder boar itself? people are too worried about all the no brainer shit to even notice
Its clearancing for tthe rod cap bolts...the stroke means the crank has a wider rotation
I think the 350 has a stroke of 3'/ 1/4 " then the 383 using a 400 SB crank uses a stroke of 3'/3/4 " so what a change in length of stroke.
I use Eagle 6-inch rods for the 383 I did that I understand adds in torque and longevity of the engine life .
I am changing out a used up and tiered old 454 in a 1988 1 ton Chevrolet to the 383 stroker for my work truck which I am a Hunting & fishing guide that tows almost daily a 28-foot jet boat to work and then back home.
what is it that you have to clearance? im not sure exactly whats going on
Problem is to many old blocks are full of rust. When you grind them for clearance they break into the water jacket. Block fill not good for street use. Have to run oil cooler. Selling my block and sticking with the good old 355 on boost.
Here is one for you that many of us wish we could find.
So, I am a fishing guide then I move operations to Ketchikan Alaska.
Because SE Alaska towns don't have roads going or out the locals behave like pigs throwing home garbage and junk in the woods on end of old logging roads and one thing common find is used up engines so when I left Ketchikan AK, I had 5 350 SB with ages from 1975 to 2 of them with the 1-piece seals.
I sold 4 of then is day's using craigslist auto parts then one with the 1-piece seal was rebuild then put into one of my trucks.
So, a free SB block is quiet the haul and the 4 other SB sold paid for much of the gas to go home.
I know of 26 other blocks I left because the SBs had been rolled over a cliff so next time back, I am using the winch to get the blocks up to the truck.
One of the 350 blocks I left has the Camel hump heads but it is 100 feet down a 45-degree cliff so next time it is getting winched out
Knowing I can sell the 350 blocks fast at $350 a block makes it worth winching the blocks out.
I just have one simple question. Can I notch a block without a mill? Can I perform this at my house. Would you recommend it?
Yes EZ job. Just go slow and do it with crank and rod mocked up stop at .060 to .080 clearance. Honestly I have never had to notch the bottom of the cylinder on the cam side like is shown. But that said I never used a oem 400 crank and oem rods always aftermarket crank and rods
Did you see that big crack in the bottom of #8 cylinder ?
Don Rutter yes
Searched the comments section just to see if I was the only one who seen it
that is a normal casting line, not a problem, others are not as defined.
Was that a crack on the last cylinder wall?
Sure looked like it.
you know that b**** expands
I'm looking for a shop to do my block anyone know a good shop to do a block I'm close to San Bernardino ca
Where is this shop?
Larry's Auto Machine, Groton CT. 1-860-449-9112.
what's up with that crack in number eight
That isn't a crack. it's a sand casting mold joint
Using the mill is cheating.
That is a horrrible sound!
This video is worthless, Its a CNC and the length or type of rod used will dictate how much material needs removed not so much the stroke, Some rods are made for 'Stroker' apps. and don't require anywhere near what's being removed, Length of rod also matters as Dwell changes