U da man Joe, I've learned so much watching your programs since i was a kid. I made myself a career because you shared your knowledge in a very entertaining way. I am eternally grateful
The way I see it ur asking to spin a bearing doing that crap I've been around alot of race engines and have never seen anyone cut there bearings and block like that
They make money by showing off these individual parts that sponsor them.. Most likely, probably, get them for FREE! So for THEM it is a "budget build"... IF you get your own show with sponsors like these, then it can be a "budget build" LOL!
Go to the Air Flow Research website and look in the Archives. Find the article called: "The 350 that Chevy should have built" 400 Block, 327 Crank, Ford 300 Rods, 11 to 1 CR, Small Port Hi Flow heads. Net result, 420+ HP, 420+ TQ, all running on 87 Octane gas. It was the combination of a large Quench area and a very long Rod/Stroke ratio that made it happen.
John Parrish LS engines use rods longer than 6”. That’s a small part of what makes them so good. The 4.125” bore is impressive. It’s really the heads and cam that make all the difference though.
The amount of money on this build they could have put 6" rods and L31 iron heads on and been further ahead with a true flat top coated piston, but what do I know reading article after article by David Vizard.
I question the value of bearing journal mods, unless reaching past 8k rpms. The bearing already has an oil distribution ring in it so... if you want more oil, why not open up the feed hole? I wouldn't want to lose any more bearing surface, so maybe ovaling the bearing hole outward into groove area with a small [jeweler size] burr would do the job - something along the lines of 1.5mm to 1.8mm would allow plenty of control. Busch makes a variety of 3/32 shank burrs for small detail work, and looking at that block I'd guess you could stretch that bearing hole 0.030" either side without ever touching the block. I love the question "Have you ever worked on an engine you didn't like?" - Monsieur has never worked on a Peugot, I think? What do I know - maybe he likes re-sleeving blocks.
Now those are weird engines. Those sleeves are kinda tricky, and they have no rear main seal. Just a helical style gear looking thing that spins and uses centrifugal force to sling oil in.
Triggered much? Why don’t you just appreciate that this is posted instead of nitpicking? There’s some good tips for this build regardless of what you think.
@@Rudderify I'm having a hard time deciding who the bigger fool is, the genius that drove the bottom gear on with a hammer, or you for thinking that I am nitpicking by mentioning it. I wouldn't let either of you wash parts at my engine shop let alone help with assembling a short block.
@@anthonynelson9136 clearly you missed my point because you’re still blinded by rage. Let me paint this picture for you: you decided to ONLY post a negative comment about this video to stroke your ego. You choose to piss on this great 20 min video for a 3 second shot of something you disagreed with, that in reality can be accomplished safely 100 different ways. You also felt the need to ruin something that bings us and our small hobby together. You should be glad that these folks put videos together for us and they ask nothing in return. So, I do understand more that you know for being a fool.
@@Rudderify Let me paint you a picture Ken. It sounds like the only one blinded by rage is you after reading your comments. If you think that these are great videos then it just shows your lack of engine-building knowledge. Anthony brought up a valid point that someone like you that needs a participation trophy for anything you do in life wouldn't understand. You are a fool, and your husband probably cheats on you because of it cupcake.
@@RudderifyMiss your point? I think the real point here is you being triggered and blinded by rage because I think the Power Nation guys are a bunch of screw-ups and you can't handle it. Also, you can be glad these folks put these videos together I am in the business so personally, I don't need them. I watch their videos once in a while to see how much misinformation they can fit into each show. A lot of the things they do are either wrong, overkill, or too expensive for a normal guy. And don't kid yourself about them asking for nothing in return because in every segment they are trying to sell you parts or equipment you don't really need for the sponsors. So you go get into your Honda and run along now and be all butt hurt because I don't agree with you.
That rear main seal is supposed to be canted 3/8" form the parting line. This prevent oil from leaking past the main seal. Felpro even says to do this in the instructions. Wouldn't it make more sense to use a SBC for this distributor installation instead of a Ford engine?
I never understood why adjustable cam gears are so popular, if the cam timing is off you can hog out the bolt holes to adjust it if its off..in my experience its rarely off. I could understand if its a full scale race car but not many are out there
Yes But how does that oil indexing in the Web help oil flow when Main bearing's don't rotate the crank spins in them ? And speaking of Main's I couldn't help but notice you didn't opt for the greater clamping ability of ARP main studs kit for the Chevy 4 bolt main engine and I was surprised as you mentioned stepping up to the Blow thru I couldn't understand why you didn't use a premium Main stud kit ?
It seems like these shows are more Hollywood than they are real engine tech. There is no reason I know of or can think of to cut a grove between the back of the stationary main bearings and the main block journals. As soon as I saw that I was like what a minute, let me check the comments to see if anybody picked up on that weirdness
How about showing a small block 318 la motor ( Mopar ) for a rebuild show and get up to 350 hp. That's is what I'd like to see. Summit doesn't have a combination package for that. I was wondering what I could do for my dodge 318LA.
@@kennacraftjr.6513 You could do a magnum build with enginequest heads. Magnum valvetrain, mild cam, Edelbrock magnum intake, holley 600. Get your stock crank done, some aftermarket rods and kb pistons. Proper balance job and some machine work on the block. New Timing gear, oil Pump, etc. Would be a sweet little motor for 2-3k. 350hp would be no Problem at all.
I mean chevy built a 350 with a 283 cam it's a 302 and it did rip to 9-10k rpm back in the late 60s I've always wanted to be able to build one and do roller valve train some lightweight pistons and heads with some big valves and see if itd catch 12 or 13k
Why? Thats just silly when you can build that block with the 400 stroke length 3.75" and mabetter power and way more torque at 6000 rpm. It will last 4x's as long too.
They purposely under-cammed and under headed the first stage to make the second stage seem worth the money. They didn't need to touch the short block to make 500hp.
This is why I just buy a crate engine. Hell they blew the budget at stage 1 in my opinion. Now when it comes to a Ford I’m not sure what I would do. Ford crates are HIGH unless it’s a very tame 302.
There is a groove on the top main bearing and not the bottom. I think you should make the transition by put little groove on bottom bearing jest like 1/4 inch
And put groove on the left side because crank is spinning counter clockwise and go from deep to level so oil can spin through the groove and get to bottom
What's the point of having oil in between the main bearing and the block? Wouldn't the crank get the same amount of oil since it has to go through the same size hole in the bearing?
Hello my question is ( can I grind on the block where oil goes including the main bearings) just like you guys did if I’m going with stage 1 friendly build ?
Does that pan have a windage tray or did you not install 1? Just wondering cause idk if I have to have a windage tray on my mild 350 and if I do then ill have to buy a pan with 1 built in
@@KingJT80 he's saying that the grinder is a machine and therefore if it looks like a machine did it it's because the hand grinder did it... either you're an idiot, or you didn't understand what he said. Although I think the latter is nearly impossible
Those head aren't doing you any good if they're stock. Maybe get l98 heads with 58cc combustion Chambers and some mini dome pistons maybe. Try to get it to 10:1 with a 210-220 @050 cam But these are just gusses. Should work nice though with 3.73 gears
If Them Spare Parts Are Still Sitting On The Shelf. I Will Gladly Send Yall My Address. My 98 Vortec 350 Started Knocking And I'm As Broke As Broke. 🤣🤣
Subscribe to PN+ at the link below and receive the first month for just 99 cents:
httpslink.com/lnk_3d0d9e0c
What size heads did you use and valve size?
@Cobra Black &
The Man they did several other engines
Who else remembers Saturday mornings with Joe?
Joe is a host of a show on here.. th-cam.com/users/TNCrossroadsTV
Yep throwback
I love Joe!
One of the best parts of my teenage years. I love being able to continue watching this show
@@ThaMetalMan I watch it with my 6yo now. He loves it.
Engine masters did an episode about how intake and fuel temps affect HP Cold fuel makes more power than cold intake air.
indeed they did just watched it last night LOL
Hmmmm, cold air is for making cold fuel/air mixtures- density of hydrocarbons in the cylinder.
True...why Im installing a cool can in my Camino. Esp with this crap ethanol Ca piss they call gas.
U da man Joe, I've learned so much watching your programs since i was a kid. I made myself a career because you shared your knowledge in a very entertaining way. I am eternally grateful
I loved seeing these on Sunday mornings... I've been binging them lately.
Forget the shenanigans and clown cars this is real knowledge and professionals. Thank you for posting on TH-cam the new TV
On the modified bearing, it looked like there was still metal shavings in the groove.
there definitely was
I assume they will totally re-clean everything before assembly. I could hardly watch while they were grinding them above the open block..
@@russellnotestine6436 they washed the block before assembly
The way I see it ur asking to spin a bearing doing that crap I've been around alot of race engines and have never seen anyone cut there bearings and block like that
I think the budget was blown on stage 1 imo!
For what they spent on parts, you could just buy a crate engine and be done with it.
Yeah they seam to have a Bill Gates budget. A real world budget build would probably be more like $1,000 or less.
They make money by showing off these individual parts that sponsor them.. Most likely, probably, get them for FREE! So for THEM it is a "budget build"... IF you get your own show with sponsors like these, then it can be a "budget build" LOL!
Right 4K for 357 hp you can buy turn key engines that make almost 500hp
@@ToxicMisfitsYt$400 junkyard 5.3 gets you most of the way. 😁
Hey mr joe man I’m sure glad they put this on TH-cam I love to see u build engines 🆒
Go to the Air Flow Research website and look in the Archives.
Find the article called: "The 350 that Chevy should have built"
400 Block, 327 Crank, Ford 300 Rods, 11 to 1 CR, Small Port Hi Flow heads.
Net result, 420+ HP, 420+ TQ, all running on 87 Octane gas.
It was the combination of a large Quench area and a very long Rod/Stroke ratio that made it happen.
that was an excellent article!
@@jaredfarney675 It's funny that it is engine science that no one teaches or passes along.
John Parrish LS engines use rods longer than 6”. That’s a small part of what makes them so good. The 4.125” bore is impressive. It’s really the heads and cam that make all the difference though.
@@philistineau Never discount a large Quench area, the British used to call it Mechanical Octane.
The amount of money on this build they could have put 6" rods and L31 iron heads on and been further ahead with a true flat top coated piston, but what do I know reading article after article by David Vizard.
Alright! Where has joe been?! I remember watching him in horsepower! ... him and his mustangs lol
I was not expecting that ending
It's good to see Joe again.
I grew up watching Joe...that voice! Good to watch him again!
It ended before the dyno NOOO!! Haha looking forward to it guys 😉
Put a cam and springs in a 250k mile 300$ 5.3.
This set-up would be perfect for my CJ-7.
use a 3.875 stroke crank ,won't cost any more and add more cubes
I question the value of bearing journal mods, unless reaching past 8k rpms. The bearing already has an oil distribution ring in it so... if you want more oil, why not open up the feed hole? I wouldn't want to lose any more bearing surface, so maybe ovaling the bearing hole outward into groove area with a small [jeweler size] burr would do the job - something along the lines of 1.5mm to 1.8mm would allow plenty of control. Busch makes a variety of 3/32 shank burrs for small detail work, and looking at that block I'd guess you could stretch that bearing hole 0.030" either side without ever touching the block.
I love the question "Have you ever worked on an engine you didn't like?" - Monsieur has never worked on a Peugot, I think? What do I know - maybe he likes re-sleeving blocks.
Now those are weird engines. Those sleeves are kinda tricky, and they have no rear main seal. Just a helical style gear looking thing that spins and uses centrifugal force to sling oil in.
Good for the bearings.
Gorgeous Lol ! I really like this Mechanic
If you guys got Tubi (free tv channel)they did a 305 buildup that made 515?hp and well over 400 bls torque. Pretty cool build.
So let's pound the bottom timing gear on instead of using the proper installation tool. Oh well, so much for the 5 thousands thrust washer clearance.
Triggered much? Why don’t you just appreciate that this is posted instead of nitpicking? There’s some good tips for this build regardless of what you think.
@@Rudderify I'm having a hard time deciding who the bigger fool is, the genius that drove the bottom gear on with a hammer, or you for thinking that I am nitpicking by mentioning it. I wouldn't let either of you wash parts at my engine shop let alone help with assembling a short block.
@@anthonynelson9136 clearly you missed my point because you’re still blinded by rage. Let me paint this picture for you: you decided to ONLY post a negative comment about this video to stroke your ego. You choose to piss on this great 20 min video for a 3 second shot of something you disagreed with, that in reality can be accomplished safely 100 different ways. You also felt the need to ruin something that bings us and our small hobby together. You should be glad that these folks put videos together for us and they ask nothing in return. So, I do understand more that you know for being a fool.
@@Rudderify Let me paint you a picture Ken. It sounds like the only one blinded by rage is you after reading your comments. If you think that these are great videos then it just shows your lack of engine-building knowledge. Anthony brought up a valid point that someone like you that needs a participation trophy for anything you do in life wouldn't understand. You are a fool, and your husband probably cheats on you because of it cupcake.
@@RudderifyMiss your point? I think the real point here is you being triggered and blinded by rage because I think the Power Nation guys are a bunch of screw-ups and you can't handle it. Also, you can be glad these folks put these videos together I am in the business so personally, I don't need them. I watch their videos once in a while to see how much misinformation they can fit into each show. A lot of the things they do are either wrong, overkill, or too expensive for a normal guy. And don't kid yourself about them asking for nothing in return because in every segment they are trying to sell you parts or equipment you don't really need for the sponsors. So you go get into your Honda and run along now and be all butt hurt because I don't agree with you.
Awesome video as always, but we want to see the DYNO! Hopefully we will get to see it next video on this project.
That rear main seal is supposed to be canted 3/8" form the parting line. This prevent oil from leaking past the main seal. Felpro even says to do this in the instructions. Wouldn't it make more sense to use a SBC for this distributor installation instead of a Ford engine?
I never understood why adjustable cam gears are so popular, if the cam timing is off you can hog out the bolt holes to adjust it if its off..in my experience its rarely off. I could understand if its a full scale race car but not many are out there
Very cool oiling mod on the mains!
Damn appreciate the love
Perfect bday present from Powernation! Thanks
Pat went full on Batman on that short block don't look like much but can keep it's own when it's time comes
06:11 I see a metal shaving?
just about to say the same thing. that is not properly de-burred lol
Well like thee old maid said to the peeping Tom “thanks for looking in” hahaha.
Yes But how does that oil indexing in the Web help oil flow when Main bearing's don't rotate the crank spins in them ? And speaking of Main's I couldn't help but notice you didn't opt for the greater clamping ability of ARP main studs kit for the Chevy 4 bolt main engine and I was surprised as you mentioned stepping up to the Blow thru I couldn't understand why you didn't use a premium Main stud kit ?
It seems like these shows are more Hollywood than they are real engine tech. There is no reason I know of or can think of to cut a grove between the back of the stationary main bearings and the main block journals. As soon as I saw that I was like what a minute, let me check the comments to see if anybody picked up on that weirdness
How about showing a small block 318 la motor ( Mopar ) for a rebuild show and get up to 350 hp. That's is what I'd like to see. Summit doesn't have a combination package for that. I was wondering what I could do for my dodge 318LA.
@@johncholmes643sorry you feel that way about old dodge motors. I find them reliable. I've had mine for 22 years. I also like Chevy engines and ford.
@@kennacraftjr.6513 You could do a magnum build with enginequest heads. Magnum valvetrain, mild cam, Edelbrock magnum intake, holley 600. Get your stock crank done, some aftermarket rods and kb pistons. Proper balance job and some machine work on the block. New Timing gear, oil Pump, etc. Would be a sweet little motor for 2-3k. 350hp would be no Problem at all.
@@schnitzelwalther1940 thanks for the info. I'll look in to that.
What about end gap arrangement?!? Show us a couple schools of thought. Or however you did it
Now he said it right when he got to the cam shafts
The original engine masters.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤ I'd like to see what you guys do a Chevrolet 4 cylinder
I really want to see a 400 but with a 3” stroke making it a 320. then try and get to rev to 9-10k
I mean chevy built a 350 with a 283 cam it's a 302 and it did rip to 9-10k rpm back in the late 60s I've always wanted to be able to build one and do roller valve train some lightweight pistons and heads with some big valves and see if itd catch 12 or 13k
That would be cool but outside of a pure race motor it's kinda pointless.
Cameron Vandygriff that must have been fun
Why? Thats just silly when you can build that block with the 400 stroke length 3.75" and mabetter power and way more torque at 6000 rpm. It will last 4x's as long too.
Modifying the bearing and the block was a waste of time the groove in the top shell provides oiling
You guys and that damn pound feet haha!!!
wait what am I'm missing here?
Joe Elmore says and that's why I'm here bc I'm the total BadAss you want to see! Love that guy
I disagree on cutting groves in the main groves
The mains grinding is questionable. No.
Made me cringe lol
All the metal flying everywhere, and no precision while doing the grinding. That is the worst i have ever seen done to a SBC.
I've seen it done. If you go to Street Racing Channel you can see his engine builder do something similar to his TT SBC.
@@NVzla they did say shade tree. Not pro level
Only need to enlarge the feed hole in the new bearing if it doesn't line up with the block feed hole.
They purposely under-cammed and under headed the first stage to make the second stage seem worth the money. They didn't need to touch the short block to make 500hp.
And they pick up 20 HP with the electric water pump.
Exactly what I said on the first video. Parts selection and specs were retarded. The cam was basically stock spec. WTF.
All the clearance numbers he said were past the numbers he gave and he said they were good
This is why I just buy a crate engine. Hell they blew the budget at stage 1 in my opinion. Now when it comes to a Ford I’m not sure what I would do. Ford crates are HIGH unless it’s a very tame 302.
Awesome 👌. A1 techs .
Joe is back! I love Joe!
Nice work
Little bit of info left out on the how to install a dist.
Any reason one might not do that main bearing mod to a street block? Any downside?
None. It can only help it last longer
Why would you want added oil to the back side of your bearings? Doesn't make sense.
I still want to know where to get that degree wheel.
Here's the cam degree wheel they used:
16-inch Aluminum Degree Wheel Kit, from Neely Precision LLC.
www.mcssl.com/store/neely-precision-llc/catalog/product/72f981f4f5264efd8c2b376373820c3a
I was gonna buy a 350 this shit make me wanna rebuild
Good to see Elmore. Damn you got old papaw
There is a groove on the top main bearing and not the bottom. I think you should make the transition by put little groove on bottom bearing jest like 1/4 inch
And put groove on the left side because crank is spinning counter clockwise and go from deep to level so oil can spin through the groove and get to bottom
Haven't even watched the video... already liked!
What's the point of having oil in between the main bearing and the block? Wouldn't the crank get the same amount of oil since it has to go through the same size hole in the bearing?
You guys need to do a 383 LT1 build
Can you explain the hidden or forgotten oil plug galley under rear main cap in a sbc?
That timing set looks like death to motor
how many pens do you really need ?
All of them
7 for the work, 1 to poke you in the eye!
I bet you there are a couple of small screwdrivers, an extendable magnet and maybe an extendable mirror, and likely anmicro flashlight
I subscribed and enjoy your videos in Australia. Warmest regards Dean Harrop
you cut out the oil jurnail saddles but even if you dont grade the block and you just want to rebuild a 43 year old 305 would that work for that to
Thank you sir 🇧🇩🤝
You can get a junkyard 5 .3 LS for five or six hundred dollars and make 359 horsepower stock
This engine is gonna make more than that by about 150+ hp
Ok so a turbo too then
Pat and Joe on an episode, they should really try and bring Joe back
The heading says small block Chevy, what small block Chevy has a distributor at the front of the engine??
did you see the heat rainbow on that i-beam
Since all pistons are not the same dia. Should have matched to closest hole dia.in block
The stuff y’all telling us to do on The main bearings looks risky as hell lol.
Not a fan of plastic intakes.
grabir01 That’s what makes some of the modern engines so good. The intake makes a huge difference.
All this fuss, and you use stock main bolts ??
I can't find these blocks at Summit. Do they no longer sell them?
Lol Joe's jokes👍👍👍
Hello my question is ( can I grind on the block where oil goes including the main bearings) just like you guys did if I’m going with stage 1 friendly build ?
AFR discontinued the Titon intakes?
I totally love this channel!
Have a happy 4july
Does that pan have a windage tray or did you not install 1? Just wondering cause idk if I have to have a windage tray on my mild 350 and if I do then ill have to buy a pan with 1 built in
For the custom grind cam was that the advertised intake and exhaust or?
Ide love to throw some summit heads and make a 383 for my boat and my goal would be 400 ho 400 ftlb
them talking about oil clearances triggered BMW lol
Where can I find that same degree wheel?
On the piston rings do you stagger the ring gaps or put them in line
Stagger them
Y’all ever just listen to something because someone has a unique voice? That’s joe
What chanel are they now
What was the c.i.d size at first
*does it with a machine*
“That looks like a machine did it”
A hand grinder on a block is definitely not machinist work
@@KingJT80 he's saying that the grinder is a machine and therefore if it looks like a machine did it it's because the hand grinder did it... either you're an idiot, or you didn't understand what he said. Although I think the latter is nearly impossible
What size plugs go on the oil galleys?
I like this
OMG people stop with the 383 builds it's been done to death. try a 396 stroker or a 406 useing a 350 block. push the limits have some balls. 😁
As long as we can have a joint checking account!
I’m building a 389 stroker using a dart block because I’m wierd haha. 4.00x3.875
what size cam would you put in a 76 Camaro LT type that has the factory 305 and i want to go a little bigger just wake it up
Those head aren't doing you any good if they're stock. Maybe get l98 heads with 58cc combustion Chambers and some mini dome pistons maybe. Try to get it to 10:1 with a 210-220 @050 cam
But these are just gusses. Should work nice though with 3.73 gears
Guys any vdeo on degreeing camshaft
Mohd Jemadil Comp Cams used to sell one. I think it was part number 190. Call them and ask.
Nice
What degree wheel is that?
Is this an LS1?
eagle completely made in america
If Them Spare Parts Are Still Sitting On The Shelf. I Will Gladly Send Yall My Address. My 98 Vortec 350 Started Knocking And I'm As Broke As Broke. 🤣🤣