Thank you great video this just gave me the confidence I needed to try and clearance my own block sence the machine shops around here don't really offer it
Another nicely done vid. on exact subject I have to get done on my '72 Vette block for the Eagle crank and KB .060 pistons I bought. Plan to get rods checked, also get it all balanced. Was a good, but tired engine when I pulled it in 1988. Just NA build for my 91 convertible Camaro.
I had a buddy build me a 377 stroker. (Bore was real nice because it was a low mileage block. So we decided not to bore it 30 over.) He used a file to clearance the block since he didn't have a mill.
Nice work Jay. I need to map it out like you did. Great idea, real time saver.👍 Did you purchase or make the pressure test plate? I have broke through on the south of the border casted blocks. 207 casting I believe. Was a race car engine we Hard Blocked it. It was fine. Had 13to1 compression. Anyway, thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.
I made the pressure testing plates, have em for multiple engines. I've broke through the odd 010 as everyone gets excited about that casting around here. So that's what I cutt the most. Not broke any 207's yet, but I do see a lot of them. Have a few of my own. Time saving for sure! I can pop off a clearance trip to mill in about half an hour if all goes smoth that day.
Hi Jay, great video. Question for you. What is the gasket material you used to seal the top of the block with the metal plate? Im trying to do the same pressure test but cant get a seal with what i have tried. Hope you can help. Also, do you use sealer on the bolts? Thanks
Would the costumer need the crank and rods with him to see where they might hit? Or would you already know where to cut and how much without the crank and rods stabbed in
For the common rotating assemblies with 3/8" rod bolts, this has proven to be reliable. For the rods with the larger 7/16" bolts there still may be clearance issue's. I prefere to check my work before sending out but that's just me.
@@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 I wanna see a hole created through casting right at the bottom from too much grinding and then drill and tap tje incredibly thin area for a pipe plug. Then, I wanna see the access of the plug releived so the rotating assembly fits. You uave my full attention
Thank you great video this just gave me the confidence I needed to try and clearance my own block sence the machine shops around here don't really offer it
Thanks for taking your time and explaining everything. Good stuff
That's a hell of a straight block !
Even the ca. Hole us near perfectly round. ( centered )
Thats what i do except you taught me just use end mains, because that crank ain't g unna flex much, saves time! Tjsnls !
Another nicely done vid. on exact subject I have to get done on my '72 Vette block for the Eagle crank and KB .060 pistons I bought. Plan to get rods checked, also get it all balanced. Was a good, but tired engine when I pulled it in 1988. Just NA build for my 91 convertible Camaro.
Thankyou. Yea, stroker clearancing has become a very regular event these days. I'd say about 50-60% of my builds are now strokers.
I had a buddy build me a 377 stroker. (Bore was real nice because it was a low mileage block. So we decided not to bore it 30 over.) He used a file to clearance the block since he didn't have a mill.
That's some dedication 💪 Carbide rotary burrs were enough work for me lol.
Awesome work
Nice work!
Greg will have an awesome engine
Thanks CheersMartin
Thanks Martin 👍🍻🍻
Nice work Jay.
I need to map it out like you did.
Great idea, real time saver.👍
Did you purchase or make the pressure test plate?
I have broke through on the south of the border casted blocks.
207 casting I believe.
Was a race car engine we Hard Blocked it.
It was fine.
Had 13to1 compression.
Anyway, thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
I made the pressure testing plates, have em for multiple engines. I've broke through the odd 010 as everyone gets excited about that casting around here. So that's what I cutt the most. Not broke any 207's yet, but I do see a lot of them. Have a few of my own.
Time saving for sure! I can pop off a clearance trip to mill in about half an hour if all goes smoth that day.
I had to remove metal from the bottom of the cylinders as well as on top. Probably because I'm using beefy scat procomp rods.
Hi Jay, great video. Question for you. What is the gasket material you used to seal the top of the block with the metal plate? Im trying to do the same pressure test but cant get a seal with what i have tried. Hope you can help. Also, do you use sealer on the bolts? Thanks
👍👍👍👍🇺🇸
Would the costumer need the crank and rods with him to see where they might hit? Or would you already know where to cut and how much without the crank and rods stabbed in
For the common rotating assemblies with 3/8" rod bolts, this has proven to be reliable. For the rods with the larger 7/16" bolts there still may be clearance issue's. I prefere to check my work before sending out but that's just me.
What a time saver, nicely done. 👍
If you break through how do you fix it?
Pour about an inch of industrial epoxy in the block , never had one come back that we did that on ..
@@abrown5449
A pipe plug works great and more cost effective.
That creates so many other issues that I would like to see a video of that
@@whiplashmachine
A video of what, a pipe plug repair or the epoxy?
@@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 I wanna see a hole created through casting right at the bottom from too much grinding and then drill and tap tje incredibly thin area for a pipe plug. Then, I wanna see the access of the plug releived so the rotating assembly fits. You uave my full attention
Generally how much does clearing a block for a 383 cost ?
If I am building your engine, $200 for The clearancing, fitting and pressure testing.