⚠️The recall should have been a cambelt - chain conversion. These engines will still have belt troubles I guarantee it 😅 It's hardly been an eco engine has it 😊
@@julesviolinthe new ones are now chain driven. Except for the oil pump belt, which is still a wet belt and they have issues. However, chain isn’t always best these days as they’re generally made of chocolate!
In the middle of this job now. Almost ready to remove the crank pully. Happy that I was able to get the aircon compressor and cat off without too much bother. Exhaust end was a bit painful in that one of the bolts siezed and it took me an hour to dremel it off. This video has been a tremendous help. Appreciate the time and effort it took you to make. Edit: 2014 fiesta with 125k km. Oil pickup looks quite clean, maybe just one or two specs of belt. I guess I caught it before major disintegration set it.
In the process of doing Lads Fiesta Oh it’s fun But what surprised me was when I got sump off there wasn’t one bit of anything in oil pump strainer. Maybe due to servicing regular and with the correct oil Great video and helpful
Indeed, there are many 1.0 ecoboost that have a clean oil pump strainer after many miles. So far it seems that the oil spec is important, as well as keeping it as clean as possible (no engine fulsh contamination, no fuel contamination). So basically changin the oil often. However, this is not really a proven theory. In fact I have read about cases where the car wasn't started during the covid lockdown and the pump was clugged shortly after the car was used again. So it is still a mistery what exactly happens.
@@someone7507 Ford released a TSB (ref 60/2014) on the very issue of blocked oil pump strainers on cars that have sat around for a long time (and/or been driving repeatedly on only short journeys). The issue is that the detergents in the specified oil react with water that comes into contact with it (e.g. from condensation in the crankcase) and, if not boiled off from use (ideally long-journey use) ends up forming 'long chain molecules' which coagulate and risk blocking the strainer thus leading to oil starvation.
Great video Nicholas! Quite clearly a good mechanic *and* a good videographer too! Something I spotted which might add some value is with the coolant gasket at 53:15 - Ford recommend (in TSB 15-1070) that you fill in that small hole/slot in the timing cover at the top with sealant. The slot exists only to help orientate the gasket during installation but they were finding that oil was sometimes leaking down through the slot and causing the gasket to swell leading to coolant loss. Given that gasket replacement involves removal of the timing cover so a disproportionately big job (hey, it is an Ecoboost afterall!) they have now removed the locating tab on new gaskets (as per your one) hence the slot can now be blocked off to remove the risk. Newer engine releases no longer have the slot in the timing cover casting.
well ive worked on all sorts of engine in the last 50 years from old bedford 330 diesels to detroit 760. from mini engines to the large 7.3 v8 American petrols and mercedes straight 6 and v8 500. i have watched this and i cannot believe how much crap you have to go through to simply change a cambelt.. This wet belt has to be the worse design ive ever seen and obviously someone at fords get paid a lot of money to make these jobs as hard as possible...... i think it would be simpler to drop the complete front end to do this, but ive never done one so could be wrong, the amount of different tools used and the torque multiplier is crazy..... you are obviously very patient and you have done a very good job here.... its on the point of need a technical honours degree to even remember where all the crap goes..... and all because some bright spark at fords thinks a wet belt is a good idea, well no it is not a good idea and why on earth you have to go through so much to get at it is ridiculous...................... great job and great video Nicholas, you can have a cup of tea now ha aha
OMG, can not other than AGREE!! I've been mechanic for about 20 years in big ships/vessel machine room. As an engineer and also a lot of car timing belt/chains on my belt, I couldn't other than feel how the knife twist my heart while watching this! Was thinking to help my sister out with her Ford, but after watching this 😲 It's an whole catalog of special tools goi'n into that shit.... Hell no....!!
Timing components in oil is perhaps a good idea. The problem is the belt. A chain is for the vehicle's life. And also the problems due to oil pump obstruction with belt's debris. (see stellantis problems)
Seems straight forward enough. Think i will change mine in my lunch break whilst at work. Just got to get a new adjustable spanner. And pick up some oil from the supermarket first though.
I have a 2015 and I am getting ready to do this. If they expected us to change the belts periodically they should have designed the layout to make it user friendly. They ought to make the accountants and engineers do a couple of changes before they finalize the design. That being said this video is fantastic. You show us the exact details we need so we dc not screw it up. I wonder it makes sense to change the oil pump and water pump while you have the whole thing open.
Thank you so much for showing how the VVT timing tools should be fitted! There are many other videos that miss this part and the tool comes with no instructions so I really appreciate the effort you have made to show all of the stages 👍
Great job Nick, wish this video was out a couple of months back when I did my lads Fiesta. I didnt find I needed to remove the front exhaust to remove the sump, by lowering it, the sump will just about come off. My sump filter was perfectly clean so credit to genuine Ford/Castrol oil which is all its ever had. I also didnt remove the O/S drive shaft but thats because I dont have a torque multiplier, the torque spec for the crank bolt is 300n/m + 90 deg according to Haynes so that's what it got using 3/4 drive tools. Also, glad it wasnt jus me that had A/C compressor bolts that I thought were gonna shear. Glad I did the job but wont be volunteering for another one. Liked and subscribed
Just done my 2014 that I've had from new, always used the correct oil and the two belts were as good as new, all that struggle for nothing. Also snapped two bolts on the AC pump but as the sump was coming off easily repaired and I bought an undertray for it, seems strange they put the undertray on the diesel but not the petrol.
I've just done this job on a friend's car with the torque multiplier and no other setting tools other than crank pulley pin and a threaded rod screwed into the block. Worked a treat. Snapped two A/C bolts too! Found no debris in sump and belts were fine at 83k miles. I tackled the cylinder head gasket at the same time and that was informative. The oil has always been Castrol Magnatec... Neighbour has an identical car which I think I could replace both belts without disturbing the catalyst or sump🤞😊@@bobp6742
Magnifico trabajo, un video estupendo que añado a mis favoritos. Se nota que el coche ha tenido un correcto mantenimiento, la correa esta en buen estado y el colador de la bomba de aceite no está obstruido. Utilizar el aceite homologado para estos motores y sustituirlo al año es vital.
This is the best video I've seen on this subject. Congratulations on an excellent job. Just a small point. You worry me a bit wearing your finger ring whilst working. I trained as a mechanic in the 1970's in the UK and one of the first things I was told was wearing a ring was dangerous. I think the advice still holds true. Hope you don't think I'm being critical, I have your best interests at heart.
Ha ha no problem. I was thinking of having at go at replacing the wet belt on my Focus myself but after watching your excellent video I've decided to take it to a garage. At age 65 and without any proper facilities I think it is too risky to attempt it (although the mechanic in my soul would love to try ). All the best Nicholas! Look forward to watching more of your vids.
@@Riggy2201 £1200 with water pump etc. 10 hours labour in total. They said they had lots of them as they are all coming up to the 10 year mark. No other garage would do it.
What a brilliant video. I didn't know I would have all this shit to come when I bought My Fiesta but I still love the car and for a small engine with 125ps and all the bells and whistles it can certainly get along the road. Loved watching a good mechanic at work, not something I will be tackling, as someone else remarked "Too bloody old" but I enjoyed every minute of it and will be checking out any others that take my interest. Very well done, keep up the good work. All the best!
Tienes el mérito de hacer un gran trabajo y además grabarlo y editarlo. Gracias! Mañana tengo que hacer un B max ecoboost y gracias a tú video seguro que me resulta más "facil". Gracias de nuevo, un saludo.
To my opinion,you can not do this on the street,you need to stand under the car to apply the 300Nm +90 .I diy this belt,been there. You need a 3/4 inch big torque wrench, I first tried to apply this torque on axle stands, no way for me. If you can pull it off,great, but do not underestimate it.
Hi Nick I like your cool and calm approach to the job , there is a lot of hidden work in this job before any progress can be seen , also you need a large bench near you so that every part can be put in line for the re-assembly so that every thing goes back in place , the last thing you need is spare parts and no place for them , again I compliment you attention to detail cheers
Hey! Thanks for the nice comment! I have a parts-cart but there's very little space in the workshop. Maybe one day I'll have my own workshop which will be OCD-level neat and organized with a special place for jobs like this one.
J'ai bien regardé la vidéo,je regrette d'avoir acheté cette fiesta trop de travail prix chez ford France à angers 2000€ en tout cas félicitation pour le travail !
These wet belts need redesigning. Like Kevlar with small oil flow holes in them. I think the solid rubber belts are being impregnated and delaminated by oil as they go around pullys and cogs.
Awesome video, watched it for entertainment and understanding really. In the future I think I'll just remove the pan on mine to clean the pickup and hope that the belts hold!
Genuine question,How do you know what bolt clip and nut goes where when putting that all back together??? 😮 all that work just to change a belt is ridiculous. Fair play.
I will skip this car / engine in the used market. Getting one for free is the only way to start a replacement project like this.....job well done, I am not going to do this on a car...
Gran trabajo lo hace ver fácilmente pero es su experiencia que da nota a ese trabajo gracias ya pronto se lo hare ami ford ecosport 1.0 ecoboost gracias por compartir tu experiencia saludos desde el salvador en centro américa
Saludos desde islas Canarias España,,,yo soy mecánico y he hecho varios de estos ECOBOOST,si no lo has hecho nunca ,ten paciencia y marca todo o fotos ,ya te digo que es más trabajo que otros coches pero es bonito ,una cosa importante es que tengas los útiles y el del motor de arranque es muy importante para apretar y aflojar el tornillo central que va muy apretado ,guiate con un manual de aprietes y puesta a punto y todo te salga bien ,aquí veo que quita batería y uce para sacar un tornillo del motor de arranque ,yo no la quito ,el tornillo sale por debajo con una llave de dado trece pequeña ,y el aire acondicionado nunca lo descargo ,solo quito los tornillos y lo amarró y así te ahorras la carga ,tampoco quito el eje del lado derecho ,puedes apretar el tornillo bien pero por etapas ,es muy duro y tiene que ser nuevo ,este motor me gusta lo pequeño que es y cómo va en la carretera ,,,saludos y si tienes alguna duda y te puedo ayudar en algo de datos me dices ,,,desde islas Canarias 🇮🇨 👍👍👍👍👍
Hey thanks for your comment :D I know you do not have to remove so much parts, I also put it in the video that I removed the extra parts to get a better view for the video. Happy new year! @@javierrivero1299
@@MechaNick_buen trabajo ,,,este motor es muy delicado ,,yo pongo siempre primero la tapa distribucion y luego el cárter ,,,saludos desde Tenerife Canarias 🇮🇨
You made a horrendous job look easy! I bet lots of mechanics make mistakes that will cause problems later. This design looks like the belt was intended to last the life of the engine. Only one minor criticism, I would have trimmed and improved the frayed bonnet sound insulation! 😂
Hi Nick, Great video has been very helpful during the process of replacing a cylinder head on a focus due to cracked exhaust port. i have a question regarding the VCT pullys on the camshafts. assuming this does not have a timing position but as long as you carry out the VCT timing? ( like you have done in your video ) our replacement cylinder head came fully built minus the pullys so replaced them using correct torque specs given by autodata. - Thanks in advance mate.
Hi Great video and nice job. I just have a problem with the torque multiplier. I think you compute 5*90* on the input of the tool. So, with a rate 5:1, the final turn is 5x90°/5 = 90°. Am i right or wrong ? Thanks
@@MechaNick_ Ok i understand but a torque multiplier has a ratio : X turns on one side gives Y turns on the other side with the special tool, you must make 5 turns on the side "no bolt" to obtain 1 turn on the "bolt side" it seems you mesure the degrees on the "no bolt" side (but i am perhaps wrong, it's not easy to see on the video) and, if so, the "no bolt" side turns obviously 450° but the bolt turns only 90° (450/5) i must say the picture of the ford manual workshop is not clear and seems to give 5*90° on the "no bolt" side but it's for me just impossible to obtain more than 300Nm (300Nm + 90° turn following Haynes) just with a starting torque of 60Nm followed by 90° turn. i have exploded my socket wrench after 135° turn on the pulley bolt (friction washer is in place and grease between head of the bolt and its in-build washer) and my torque wrench says that i am above 200Nm so, i have 450 - 135 = 315 to complete and, sincerely, what a bullshit job and what a bullshit engine This engine is a concentrate of interesting technology but also a concentrate of completely insane design and assembly.
Great video, thanks a lot. Im thinking about doing it myself, but im not quiet sure, as it would be my fist timing chain ever haha. Not sure if its a good idea However i wanted to ask you if you can recommend any repair manual for the firsta and where i can get it from. Thanks again in advance :)
As far as I know im not so sure about the manuals. I got Haynes Pro which i got from my sponsor Krulo. Its a bit pricey though, but it has all the diagrams and manuals. Edit: But if you follow my video you should be fine.
Hi Nicholas, great job, mate. As far as I could understand after 10 years and 145 K km the condition of both belts was relatively good. Am I correct? Mine is almost 8 years and is approaching 100 K km, so I wonder when to change it.
Hey! Thanks for the positive comment :D On Haynes it states that the belt needs to be replaced every 240.000 km and 120 months. I highly doubt this and would get the belt condition checked. Remove sump check for particles or remove valve cover and check the belt. Better safe than sorry.
I no longer reccomend people buy Fords which is sad :( The engines could always be considered simple,dependable and able to survive the neglect/abuse sadly many got. Without doubt the inexperienced designers overlooked the Belt debris issue or they would have added a better strainer to the oil pickup or even a small inspection plate in the sump. With the few pennies they saved not even adding keyways to the pulleys it looks pretty clear to me they intended this a sort of sealed engine that hopefully did 150k miles then you just replaced it ! Great video though 👍 Final thought, every time i see Eco or Green I avoid it and Yet again I am correct :D the
Hi Nicklas Thanks for a det good job you say you forgot to film the 60 newton meters on the crank ball but in the video I saw you tensioned 70 neutral meters first how do you tension 60 neutral meters when you have tensioned 70 neutral meters or is it only 70 Newton meters and 5 × 90° Rg k😀😀🙏🙏
Great job, thank you very much for the video. I wanted to ask you something and it is because you have put the oil pan in before the distribution box, it makes sense when disassembling to leverage to take off the inside, but in the assembly? Its any reason for that? Thanks in avance 😊
Hey! You're welcome :) I like to install the oil pan before the distribution box because it makes it a little bit easier to get it in the right position. Thats all :D
Very impressive video. And great work. How many hours did this job take? My 2013 Ford Fiesta Ecoboost 1.0 lost power last week after only 48000 miles. It never skipped a beat until before that. My mechanic has said it can't be fixed and was vague as to the problem (I'm wondering if they used the wrong oil 3 months ago when it was serviced). They're a busy garage and I see now why he said get a new engine or scrap it! 4k worth of car gone :(
You did put oil pick up mesh cover plate upside down. That can reduce oil pressure in cold weather and when oil mesh start to get dirty or when engine bearings start to wear down. Oil does not flow in full capacity.
@@MechaNick_ you say you forgot to film the 60 newton meters on the crank ball but in the video I saw you tensioned 70 neutral meters first how do you tension 60 neutral meters when you have tensioned 70 neutral meters or is it only 70 Newton meters and 5 × 90° 😀😀🙏🙏
the second torquing to 60Nm is done with the torque converter- so actually it is 300Nm. ( 5 X 60).Then you tighten a further 1 1/4 turns, which is actually only a further 1/4 turn of the bolt.@@kennethlarsen6330
Hello Nicholas, nice job! I had one question: Am I wrong or did you put the filter plate (oil pump) the other way round? it seems that the outer part is now flush with the inside.
Wow what a job cars are too complicated for there own good these days and most of it to save the environment…. Bring back ya mk1 and mk2 escorts and the old over head cam we’re if belt breaks you slip another on and time it up …. No damage… progress hay well done to the mechanic clever lad never be out of work with the crap on the roads now 🤩🇬🇧✌🏼
Thanks :D Yes thats something that I should have mentioned. This belt doesnt look too bad, but you can see it on the ribs that it started to deteriorate. Also the sump had small particles stuck.
good job how long does it take to change the timing belt on it? think it takes longer than the one hour video is :) the book says 7 hours but in reality think it will take longer and how many times have you done it before? it looks like you have experience with it before 😀
Hey! This is my third time changing the belt. It can be done in 7 hours. I dont really know how long it took me because i had a lot of other jobs to do meanwhile.
Hey, Just came to this video, really nice guide. I am going over it because i have 2017 fiesta mk8 from 2018 onwards) with SFJK engine. I had a cambelt done 2 years ago by nearby mechanic, and after some time i got rattling noise when starting on cold engine, and also during acceleration. Do you think there might be a VVT gear failure doing it, or tgears were incorrectly alligned when cam belt was installed? I already removed the oil sump to see if there i no debris from new belt, and actually oil pump filter was very dirty. Do you think it could damage VVT gears? Thanks in advance...
Hey Causing Niko!! Its hard to predict anything can happen.... If id own a Ford id do 120.000km And 6 years. And check the belt every second year or 60000km.
@MechaNick_ Seems I have run into some trouble. I was following the torque spec for front cover bolts as per ford repair guide. Seems the torque specified in the manual has a final 90° turn which I notice is missing in the image you display. Unfortunately one of my bolts snapped when I was applying the 90 ° turn, so I removed the cover again and cleaned it up. Im planning to buy a set of new bolts. My question is, for the new bolts, should I just leave at 15nm or should I also add 90°. I would think the bolts are torque to yield hence the 90° turn in the fird manual. Any help appreciated.
Hi mate, Am taking my 16 plate focus in for a new water pump and cam belt change. (Water pump is leaking and mechanic has advised it’s worth getting the belt done whilst it’s stripped down) Would you advise I also get the oil pump drive belt changed? ( I have seen this mentioned in comments and on other forums) I’m a Complete car noob and appreciate any advice. Thanks. Car has 51k on the clock and goes in annually for a service
Hey! I'd change the waterpump and auxiliary belt. First you could remove the sump and check if your see the oil pump is clogged. And the valve cover to check the condition of the belt. If that all seems fine you should be okay with just changing the water pump and aux belt. Good luck!
Wow thanks a lot for the instant reply! Very helpful. I will not be doing the works myself as wouldn’t have a clue. I assume a mechanic should know the things to check, but I will mention those points you’ve raised anyway just to make sure. Thanks !!
Что то современные двигатели через чур излишнее сложными стали делать 😢. Механик молодец! легко справляется! на 50.30 мин. привод маслонасоса на ремне это страшное дело, при первом хорошем морозе срежет зубья это точно!
You forgot the filter for the turbo oil feed that's behind the timing cover and also the one-way valve for vacuum part of the diaphragm was in the oil pick up
My only explanation for the wet belt system: Ford hates mechanics and their customers equally 😂 So much work to change this damn thing. No wonder it is so expensive to get it changed.
Hi Nichlas you say you forgot to film the 60 newton meters on the crank ball but in the video I saw you tensioned 70 neutral meters first how do you tension 60 neutral meters when you have tensioned 70 neutral meters or is it only 70 Newton meters and 5 × 90° Rg Kenneth 😀😀🙏🙏
The 70 nm is done without the torque multiplier. The torque multiplier is then installed and tightened to 60nm on the input side, which is 300nm on the output side. The final 5x90° is equivalent to 90° without the multiplier.
thanks for your answer but I don't have that tool Multiplier so I just have to tighten the pulley on the crankshaft 70 Newton meters and then 5 × 90° is it correct 😀🙏
NO! Without a torque multiplier, you tighten to 70Nm, then 300Nm, then 1/4 turn. Good luck! I have just done it with the multiplier and it is still hard work. @@kennethlarsen6330
Hi Nick, Great Job. Really it gives more information on how to work step by step changing the timing belt. I need one information on the part number. my car is 2012 Ford Focus 1.0 100hp in UK. When i checked the part number in ford website shows 1760650 . But in your video it shows 1807611 for the same engine. is there any difference between these two belts.
@@mathewnewton3499 Thank you for the clarification. I went to near by ford showroom and have given my Reg no to ford spares counter and asked them to check. To my surprise even they have no idea which one is the correct size for my car. They suggest me to remove the belt and bring it and they can get me the correct size belt.
Hallo Nikölas, I have changed my auto Ford focus 1.0 ecoboost mk3 2012 Wet belt. Turning on the key ignition sounds like blast before engine start.!!! Any idea what sound it could be?? Thankyou in advance
Ta mate ,reason I asked, my ex car that my son now has is around 80k miles.I do 6k oil changes,dont know what to advise him when to change.150k seems high risk,but it being a big expensive job (how much ?), dont want to do before its needed.Any thoughts..??
Vente a Canarias y verás cuántos mecánicos hay que han hecho estas distribuciones ,,no es tan malo como lo pintan ,el horario de la casa es de 8 h el trabajo ,un mecánico normal ,el primero tarda ,pero ya los otros van como tiros ,,,yo ya tardo un poco más de 6 h,,,vamos bajando y todo garantizado,,
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Nicholas is a good mechanic, he is very careful, from this video you can see that he enjoys the work he does.
One big BRAVO!
Thanks my guy :) Feels good to read :D
⚠️The recall should have been a cambelt - chain conversion.
These engines will still have belt troubles I guarantee it 😅
It's hardly been an eco engine has it 😊
@@julesviolinthe new ones are now chain driven. Except for the oil pump belt, which is still a wet belt and they have issues. However, chain isn’t always best these days as they’re generally made of chocolate!
Wo ist eure Werkstatt ?
In the middle of this job now. Almost ready to remove the crank pully. Happy that I was able to get the aircon compressor and cat off without too much bother. Exhaust end was a bit painful in that one of the bolts siezed and it took me an hour to dremel it off. This video has been a tremendous help. Appreciate the time and effort it took you to make.
Edit: 2014 fiesta with 125k km. Oil pickup looks quite clean, maybe just one or two specs of belt. I guess I caught it before major disintegration set it.
In the process of doing Lads Fiesta
Oh it’s fun
But what surprised me was when I got sump off there wasn’t one bit of anything in oil pump strainer.
Maybe due to servicing regular and with the correct oil
Great video and helpful
Indeed, there are many 1.0 ecoboost that have a clean oil pump strainer after many miles. So far it seems that the oil spec is important, as well as keeping it as clean as possible (no engine fulsh contamination, no fuel contamination). So basically changin the oil often. However, this is not really a proven theory. In fact I have read about cases where the car wasn't started during the covid lockdown and the pump was clugged shortly after the car was used again. So it is still a mistery what exactly happens.
@@someone7507 Ford released a TSB (ref 60/2014) on the very issue of blocked oil pump strainers on cars that have sat around for a long time (and/or been driving repeatedly on only short journeys). The issue is that the detergents in the specified oil react with water that comes into contact with it (e.g. from condensation in the crankcase) and, if not boiled off from use (ideally long-journey use) ends up forming 'long chain molecules' which coagulate and risk blocking the strainer thus leading to oil starvation.
Great video Nicholas! Quite clearly a good mechanic *and* a good videographer too! Something I spotted which might add some value is with the coolant gasket at 53:15 - Ford recommend (in TSB 15-1070) that you fill in that small hole/slot in the timing cover at the top with sealant. The slot exists only to help orientate the gasket during installation but they were finding that oil was sometimes leaking down through the slot and causing the gasket to swell leading to coolant loss. Given that gasket replacement involves removal of the timing cover so a disproportionately big job (hey, it is an Ecoboost afterall!) they have now removed the locating tab on new gaskets (as per your one) hence the slot can now be blocked off to remove the risk. Newer engine releases no longer have the slot in the timing cover casting.
Hey man, thanks for the positive comment :D And some good tips! Will definitely remember it for the next one, thanks :)
yes there was a service bulltin that requires rtv on top of the water gasket @@MechaNick_
well ive worked on all sorts of engine in the last 50 years from old bedford 330 diesels to detroit 760. from mini engines to the large 7.3 v8 American petrols and mercedes straight 6 and v8 500. i have watched this and i cannot believe how much crap you have to go through to simply change a cambelt.. This wet belt has to be the worse design ive ever seen and obviously someone at fords get paid a lot of money to make these jobs as hard as possible...... i think it would be simpler to drop the complete front end to do this, but ive never done one so could be wrong, the amount of different tools used and the torque multiplier is crazy..... you are obviously very patient and you have done a very good job here.... its on the point of need a technical honours degree to even remember where all the crap goes..... and all because some bright spark at fords thinks a wet belt is a good idea, well no it is not a good idea and why on earth you have to go through so much to get at it is ridiculous...................... great job and great video Nicholas, you can have a cup of tea now ha aha
OMG, can not other than AGREE!! I've been mechanic for about 20 years in big ships/vessel machine room. As an engineer and also a lot of car timing belt/chains on my belt, I couldn't other than feel how the knife twist my heart while watching this! Was thinking to help my sister out with her Ford, but after watching this 😲 It's an whole catalog of special tools goi'n into that shit.... Hell no....!!
Timing components in oil is perhaps a good idea.
The problem is the belt. A chain is for the vehicle's life.
And also the problems due to oil pump obstruction with belt's debris. (see stellantis problems)
Seems straight forward enough. Think i will change mine in my lunch break whilst at work. Just got to get a new adjustable spanner. And pick up some oil from the supermarket first though.
I have a 2015 and I am getting ready to do this. If they expected us to change the belts periodically they should have designed the layout to make it user friendly. They ought to make the accountants and engineers do a couple of changes before they finalize the design. That being said this video is fantastic. You show us the exact details we need so we dc not screw it up. I wonder it makes sense to change the oil pump and water pump while you have the whole thing open.
Thank you so much for showing how the VVT timing tools should be fitted! There are many other videos that miss this part and the tool comes with no instructions so I really appreciate the effort you have made to show all of the stages 👍
Youre welcome!! Glad i could help 😁
Great job Nick, wish this video was out a couple of months back when I did my lads Fiesta. I didnt find I needed to remove the front exhaust to remove the sump, by lowering it, the sump will just about come off. My sump filter was perfectly clean so credit to genuine Ford/Castrol oil which is all its ever had.
I also didnt remove the O/S drive shaft but thats because I dont have a torque multiplier, the torque spec for the crank bolt is 300n/m + 90 deg according to Haynes so that's what it got using 3/4 drive tools. Also, glad it wasnt jus me that had A/C compressor bolts that I thought were gonna shear. Glad I did the job but wont be volunteering for another one. Liked and subscribed
Thanks for the positive comment, the like and the sub
Just done my 2014 that I've had from new, always used the correct oil and the two belts were as good as new, all that struggle for nothing. Also snapped two bolts on the AC pump but as the sump was coming off easily repaired and I bought an undertray for it, seems strange they put the undertray on the diesel but not the petrol.
I've just done this job on a friend's car with the torque multiplier and no other setting tools other than crank pulley pin and a threaded rod screwed into the block. Worked a treat. Snapped two A/C bolts too! Found no debris in sump and belts were fine at 83k miles. I tackled the cylinder head gasket at the same time and that was informative.
The oil has always been Castrol Magnatec... Neighbour has an identical car which I think I could replace both belts without disturbing the catalyst or sump🤞😊@@bobp6742
Magnifico trabajo, un video estupendo que añado a mis favoritos. Se nota que el coche ha tenido un correcto mantenimiento, la correa esta en buen estado y el colador de la bomba de aceite no está obstruido. Utilizar el aceite homologado para estos motores y sustituirlo al año es vital.
This is the best video I've seen on this subject. Congratulations on an excellent job. Just a small point. You worry me a bit wearing your finger ring whilst working. I trained as a mechanic in the 1970's in the UK and one of the first things I was told was wearing a ring was dangerous. I think the advice still holds true. Hope you don't think I'm being critical, I have your best interests at heart.
Hey Steve! Thanks for the positive comment, appreciate it 😁 About the ring... Yess I actually should take it off. Will do. Thanks for the heads up 🍀😄
Ha ha no problem. I was thinking of having at go at replacing the wet belt on my Focus myself but after watching your excellent video I've decided to take it to a garage. At age 65 and without any proper facilities I think it is too risky to attempt it (although the mechanic in my soul would love to try ). All the best Nicholas! Look forward to watching more of your vids.
Great job your doing ther. 🇧🇻😁
Thanks,just had mine done at dealership, I now appreciate it is a big job and needs some special tools.
how much did the dealer charge for that?
@@Riggy2201 £1200 with water pump etc. 10 hours labour in total. They said they had lots of them as they are all coming up to the 10 year mark. No other garage would do it.
Wow, I knew it was a difficult job, my daughters car is now 10 years old and almost certainly needs this done, I won’t be volunteering lol
Great job with video. Thanks. Every minute was valuable and worth to wach. Tomorrow I will do the same job
What a brilliant video. I didn't know I would have all this shit to come when I bought My Fiesta but I still love the car and for a small engine with 125ps and all the bells and whistles it can certainly get along the road. Loved watching a good mechanic at work, not something I will be tackling, as someone else remarked "Too bloody old" but I enjoyed every minute of it and will be checking out any others that take my interest. Very well done, keep up the good work. All the best!
good mechanic used all the correct special tools for the job
Thank you :D
Tienes el mérito de hacer un gran trabajo y además grabarlo y editarlo. Gracias! Mañana tengo que hacer un B max ecoboost y gracias a tú video seguro que me resulta más "facil". Gracias de nuevo, un saludo.
well done sir ! very comprehensive video.Im going to have to do this in the street and there will be no fancy torque multiplier .
To my opinion,you can not do this on the street,you need to stand under the car to apply the 300Nm +90 .I diy this belt,been there. You need a 3/4 inch big torque wrench, I first tried to apply this torque on axle stands, no way for me. If you can pull it off,great, but do not underestimate it.
Was für ein professionelles Video. Alle Achtung. Besser geht nicht.
Danke schön!!! ♥️
Hi Nick I like your cool and calm approach to the job , there is a lot of hidden work in this job before any progress can be seen , also you need a large bench near you so that every part can be put in line for the re-assembly so that every thing goes back in place , the last thing you need is spare parts and no place for them , again I compliment you attention to detail cheers
Hey! Thanks for the nice comment! I have a parts-cart but there's very little space in the workshop. Maybe one day I'll have my own workshop which will be OCD-level neat and organized with a special place for jobs like this one.
J'ai bien regardé la vidéo,je regrette d'avoir acheté cette fiesta trop de travail prix chez ford France à angers 2000€ en tout cas félicitation pour le travail !
Je le fais pour 1000€ pièce comprises
nicely done - hopefully you didn't have too many bolts left over at the end !
These wet belts need redesigning. Like Kevlar with small oil flow holes in them.
I think the solid rubber belts are being impregnated and delaminated by oil as they go around pullys and cogs.
Awesome video, watched it for entertainment and understanding really. In the future I think I'll just remove the pan on mine to clean the pickup and hope that the belts hold!
Thank you for all the time and effort you put into this video. It has helped me tremendously!
Thank you so much for the super like! Glad I could help 😊😁😁
Genuine question,How do you know what bolt clip and nut goes where when putting that all back together??? 😮 all that work just to change a belt is ridiculous. Fair play.
@@oGINGERNUTSo I really dont know, its a feeling or something i cant really explain. And I like to keep the bolts with the part that i disassebled.
@MechaNick_ Plenty of experience. Good job, very professional. 💯
Hello Nicolas, i'm from ITALY. This video is fantastic. Congratulation on hou you work. Good work.
Grazie!! Thank you for the positive words :D
That’s a pig of a job. Although quite a few of these never made it to the first belt change for one reason or another 😂😂
@@davidnorton5887 Yes indeed! I have replaced a whole engine in these cars before
I will skip this car / engine in the used market. Getting one for free is the only way to start a replacement project like this.....job well done, I am not going to do this on a car...
Gran trabajo lo hace ver fácilmente pero es su experiencia que da nota a ese trabajo gracias ya pronto se lo hare ami ford ecosport 1.0 ecoboost gracias por compartir tu experiencia saludos desde el salvador en centro américa
Thank you for the nice comment :) Goodluck with the EcoSport!!
Great Video, I gotta do a replacement on my EcoSport and this video will be extremely helpful. Thank you from Tijuana 🇲🇽
Thanks :D Good luck! If you have any questions do not hesitate to contact me :)
Saludos desde islas Canarias España,,,yo soy mecánico y he hecho varios de estos ECOBOOST,si no lo has hecho nunca ,ten paciencia y marca todo o fotos ,ya te digo que es más trabajo que otros coches pero es bonito ,una cosa importante es que tengas los útiles y el del motor de arranque es muy importante para apretar y aflojar el tornillo central que va muy apretado ,guiate con un manual de aprietes y puesta a punto y todo te salga bien ,aquí veo que quita batería y uce para sacar un tornillo del motor de arranque ,yo no la quito ,el tornillo sale por debajo con una llave de dado trece pequeña ,y el aire acondicionado nunca lo descargo ,solo quito los tornillos y lo amarró y así te ahorras la carga ,tampoco quito el eje del lado derecho ,puedes apretar el tornillo bien pero por etapas ,es muy duro y tiene que ser nuevo ,este motor me gusta lo pequeño que es y cómo va en la carretera ,,,saludos y si tienes alguna duda y te puedo ayudar en algo de datos me dices ,,,desde islas Canarias 🇮🇨 👍👍👍👍👍
Hey thanks for your comment :D I know you do not have to remove so much parts, I also put it in the video that I removed the extra parts to get a better view for the video.
Happy new year! @@javierrivero1299
@@MechaNick_buen trabajo ,,,este motor es muy delicado ,,yo pongo siempre primero la tapa distribucion y luego el cárter ,,,saludos desde Tenerife Canarias 🇮🇨
You made a horrendous job look easy! I bet lots of mechanics make mistakes that will cause problems later. This design looks like the belt was intended to last the life of the engine. Only one minor criticism, I would have trimmed and improved the frayed bonnet sound insulation! 😂
Well, It is not as easy indeed. And I removed some more components just for the video. And oh yes... the bonnet insulation xD
Superb lucrat!
Felicitari mecanicului, un adevarat profesinist!👍👍
Thank you :D
Hi! great job, and great guide for those who want to do this job.. How many hours does it take for a technician to do this job properly??
Thanks!! 6-7 hours.
Hi Nick, Great video has been very helpful during the process of replacing a cylinder head on a focus due to cracked exhaust port. i have a question regarding the VCT pullys on the camshafts.
assuming this does not have a timing position but as long as you carry out the VCT timing? ( like you have done in your video ) our replacement cylinder head came fully built minus the pullys so replaced them using correct torque specs given by autodata. - Thanks in advance mate.
@@jacobnewman8443 the pulleys have no sensor, so it should not matter
and this is the best FORD can do after a hundred years of manufacturing... a cam belt from hell
Wonder what they thought when making it
Not only ford vauxhall/peugeot have this idea also
Hi Nick, Great video. I'm about to start this work soon and this video has help me a lot, Many thanks from the UK
Youre welcome mate :) goodluck!
Brilliant video to watch
Only slight problem is you put the oil strainer cap on upside down on the bottom of the oil pump.
Thanks, and yes I have been told :)
Excellent and very informative video Nicholas. You are truly a professional. Thank You
Thanks a lot! 😁😁🍀
nice, well done! Regarding the engine oil: should there be the C948 specification? For preventing the oil attacking the belts?
Thank you 😊 this oil that I recommended in the video has WSS-M2C948-A and B.
@@MechaNick_ great! Very important
Respect to this man.
Is it fine to pop the strainer out like that, seen many other videos of people using a 90deg tool to scrape out the deposits , great job
天才的設計，拆了十分鐘只是外部喉管及檢測
你是什麼意思？
@@MechaNick_ 別說是修這牌子的車，只是看都感覺慘劇，再看日系車簡單易拆耐用，美系車買車的客人是傻瓜吧。
我同意你的看法。xD
@@MechaNick_ 幸運地我家全是toyota 還是自己保養及維修，不好的只能做日系保養，不敢碰美系及歐洲車，你的專業水平很好，只是要保護風動工貝，先橫動鬆開，之後才開動，1/4工具很快要更換如果是snop on 可要us$150,,😭fix.
你有什麼豐田車？ 我正在開發 Celica，請觀看我的最新影片。
Hi
Great video and nice job.
I just have a problem with the torque multiplier.
I think you compute 5*90* on the input of the tool.
So, with a rate 5:1, the final turn is 5x90°/5 = 90°.
Am i right or wrong ?
Thanks
@@meschiffreszen9170 you just turn it 5 times 90 degrees, 450 in total.
@@MechaNick_ Ok i understand
but a torque multiplier has a ratio : X turns on one side gives Y turns on the other side
with the special tool, you must make 5 turns on the side "no bolt" to obtain 1 turn on the "bolt side"
it seems you mesure the degrees on the "no bolt" side (but i am perhaps wrong, it's not easy to see on the video)
and, if so, the "no bolt" side turns obviously 450° but the bolt turns only 90° (450/5)
i must say the picture of the ford manual workshop is not clear and seems to give 5*90° on the "no bolt" side
but it's for me just impossible to obtain more than 300Nm (300Nm + 90° turn following Haynes) just with a starting torque of 60Nm followed by 90° turn.
i have exploded my socket wrench after 135° turn on the pulley bolt (friction washer is in place and grease between head of the bolt and its in-build washer)
and my torque wrench says that i am above 200Nm
so, i have 450 - 135 = 315 to complete
and, sincerely, what a bullshit job
and what a bullshit engine
This engine is a concentrate of interesting technology but also a concentrate of completely insane design and assembly.
Great video, thanks a lot. Im thinking about doing it myself, but im not quiet sure, as it would be my fist timing chain ever haha. Not sure if its a good idea
However i wanted to ask you if you can recommend any repair manual for the firsta and where i can get it from.
Thanks again in advance :)
As far as I know im not so sure about the manuals. I got Haynes Pro which i got from my sponsor Krulo. Its a bit pricey though, but it has all the diagrams and manuals.
Edit:
But if you follow my video you should be fine.
Great job! Thanks a lot.
I had no washer on my Focus (as seen at 58'09), is it compulsory to mount one, even if there were none?
Thanks :) and yes. You will need itt.
Hi Nicholas, great job, mate. As far as I could understand after 10 years and 145 K km the condition of both belts was relatively good. Am I correct? Mine is almost 8 years and is approaching 100 K km, so I wonder when to change it.
Hey! Thanks for the positive comment :D On Haynes it states that the belt needs to be replaced every 240.000 km and 120 months. I highly doubt this and would get the belt condition checked. Remove sump check for particles or remove valve cover and check the belt. Better safe than sorry.
asap! dont delay!
What a great work, sir. Best Ever seen........greetz from germany 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks :)
Great video! Thank you! What mileage had this car when you replaced all engine belts?
@@makskk6spm275 i think around 120000km
@@MechaNick_ Hi Nick. Thanks for the quick response! 120k km is not bad at all !! The old belts were in quite good condition.
very detailed video, was informative to see, thanks
I no longer reccomend people buy Fords which is sad :( The engines could always be considered simple,dependable and able to survive the neglect/abuse sadly many got. Without doubt the inexperienced designers overlooked the Belt debris issue or they would have added a better strainer to the oil pickup or even a small inspection plate in the sump. With the few pennies they saved not even adding keyways to the pulleys it looks pretty clear to me they intended this a sort of sealed engine that hopefully did 150k miles then you just replaced it !
Great video though 👍
Final thought, every time i see Eco or Green I avoid it and Yet again I am correct :D the
i agree 100%
Key question is, was this car serviced regularly with the correct ford oil?
I strongly doubt!!
seems like a lot of work. well done! i have to do this too soon, so this video is perfect du have a first look. keep it up. :)
Thanks a lot mate :D goodluck on the job!!
And my kids can't understand why i have tinnitus 😂 good job btw.. 👏
Thanks!
Hi Nicklas Thanks for a det good job
you say you forgot to film the 60 newton meters on the crank ball but in the video I saw you tensioned 70 neutral meters first how do you tension 60 neutral meters when you have tensioned 70 neutral meters or is it only 70 Newton meters and 5 × 90°
Rg k😀😀🙏🙏
Great job, thank you very much for the video. I wanted to ask you something and it is because you have put the oil pan in before the distribution box, it makes sense when disassembling to leverage to take off the inside, but in the assembly? Its any reason for that? Thanks in avance 😊
Hey! You're welcome :) I like to install the oil pan before the distribution box because it makes it a little bit easier to get it in the right position. Thats all :D
Thank you!!! what was the mileage if you remember? Can you or should you go 100,000 if the oil was changed every 4000??
The mileage is shown in the beginning of the video i think. At least get the belt condition checked!! Thank you 😁
Thank you!@@MechaNick_
"L'olio veniva davvero cambiato ogni 4000 km? Non capisco l'inglese, mi dispiace.
so looked at the video and i only have one question . . . do you have to remove alll of these things just to get to the belts
On the turbo version Yes, it will make it a lot easier.
hi, nice work
I have changed 2 cam wheels, there is no mark on them, how should I set them?
Thanks! 😁 The orientation should not matter, just make sure the camshafts are locked and the barcode is pointing up.
Very impressive video. And great work. How many hours did this job take?
My 2013 Ford Fiesta Ecoboost 1.0 lost power last week after only 48000 miles. It never skipped a beat until before that. My mechanic has said it can't be fixed and was vague as to the problem (I'm wondering if they used the wrong oil 3 months ago when it was serviced). They're a busy garage and I see now why he said get a new engine or scrap it! 4k worth of car gone :(
You did put oil pick up mesh cover plate upside down. That can reduce oil pressure in cold weather and when oil mesh start to get dirty or when engine bearings start to wear down. Oil does not flow in full capacity.
Noticed it.
@@MechaNick_ you say you forgot to film the 60 newton meters on the crank ball but in the video I saw you tensioned 70 neutral meters first how do you tension 60 neutral meters when you have tensioned 70 neutral meters or is it only 70 Newton meters and 5 × 90° 😀😀🙏🙏
the second torquing to 60Nm is done with the torque converter- so actually it is 300Nm. ( 5 X 60).Then you tighten a further 1 1/4 turns, which is actually only a further 1/4 turn of the bolt.@@kennethlarsen6330
Thanks, Nicholas, much appreciated
Thank YOU! 😁
If you have an EcoBoost old enough for belt replacement, trade or dump it off immediately afterwards. Consider yourself lucky it lasted that long.
If its replaced, for a brand New one, why dump it?
Hello Nicholas, nice job! I had one question: Am I wrong or did you put the filter plate (oil pump) the other way round? it seems that the outer part is now flush with the inside.
Hey, Thanks for the positive comment! Yes i've placed it upside down.
Got it! Thanks for your prompt response!
@@fdiddy100 let me know if it works! Post a picture on my Discord. You can find it on my TH-cam channel page.
Wow what a job cars are too complicated for there own good these days and most of it to save the environment…. Bring back ya mk1 and mk2 escorts and the old over head cam we’re if belt breaks you slip another on and time it up …. No damage… progress hay well done to the mechanic clever lad never be out of work with the crap on the roads now 🤩🇬🇧✌🏼
Absolutely heroic.
Thank you for the Video and your work ❤
really good job. On the car and editing video.
Good job,I ll stick to changing the oil ! Belts looked o.k to me at 88 k miles,wish you had commented on them (expert opinion)…?
Thanks :D Yes thats something that I should have mentioned. This belt doesnt look too bad, but you can see it on the ribs that it started to deteriorate. Also the sump had small particles stuck.
good job how long does it take to change the timing belt on it? think it takes longer than the one hour video is :) the book says 7 hours but in reality think it will take longer and how many times have you done it before? it looks like you have experience with it before 😀
Hey! This is my third time changing the belt. It can be done in 7 hours. I dont really know how long it took me because i had a lot of other jobs to do meanwhile.
Very very good mechanic
👏🏻👏🏻 Bravo!
What's the cost for this job (without parts) and how long it took (in real time)?
Thanks!! This job costs me 6-7 hours if i am not filming and clean the parts thoroughly.
Hey,
Just came to this video, really nice guide. I am going over it because i have 2017 fiesta mk8 from 2018 onwards) with SFJK engine. I had a cambelt done 2 years ago by nearby mechanic, and after some time i got rattling noise when starting on cold engine, and also during acceleration. Do you think there might be a VVT gear failure doing it, or tgears were incorrectly alligned when cam belt was installed? I already removed the oil sump to see if there i no debris from new belt, and actually oil pump filter was very dirty. Do you think it could damage VVT gears? Thanks in advance...
Hey! Thanks for the compliments! Could be the vvt gear, but also the turbo waste gate!
@@MechaNick_ thanks for the reply! i will porbably try wastegate valve first, i'm surprised it's only some plastic cover with rubber valve...
1:06:39 you must Reset the learning values of the Crankshaft and camshaft position sensors with diagnostic tool at the end of the repair!
Uhm. Nope. Self learning and adjusting ecu
Great video, how do you recommend to remove the crank bolt without the torque multiplier?
Oogadooga (air wrench)
Would using Premium Unleaded fuel help with the belt disintegration help PS great video
Tres bon travail , merci pour la vidéo . Dommage que ce moteur soit mal pensé et fragile.
Watching at your videos! Tops clas man,but i think better to take the engine out,don't you think?
Hahaha yes maybe next time i will do that.
My piccanto cam belt cost me £28, without the water pump took me 2 hours to do, this ford is Ferrari price.
Nice work, but if you look at 46:10 and then again at 49:10 you might have put the oil pump strainer the wrong way.
I know. Theres 200 comments about this 🤣
At what mileage would you personally recommend wet belts to be changed?
Hey Causing Niko!! Its hard to predict anything can happen.... If id own a Ford id do 120.000km And 6 years. And check the belt every second year or 60000km.
@@MechaNick_ thanks 🤙🏻 let’s go bowling..
Excellent video well done thank you
Thanks :D
Merci pour cette excellente vidéo !
@MechaNick_ Seems I have run into some trouble. I was following the torque spec for front cover bolts as per ford repair guide. Seems the torque specified in the manual has a final 90° turn which I notice is missing in the image you display. Unfortunately one of my bolts snapped when I was applying the 90 ° turn, so I removed the cover again and cleaned it up. Im planning to buy a set of new bolts. My question is, for the new bolts, should I just leave at 15nm or should I also add 90°. I would think the bolts are torque to yield hence the 90° turn in the fird manual. Any help appreciated.
@@MrUnderwurlde new bolts, do the 90 degree.
@@MechaNick_ Super! Thank you so much for the prompt response.
Awesome work 😊👍
Thanks a lot :D
@@MechaNick_ My pleasure 😊😊
Hi mate,
Am taking my 16 plate focus in for a new water pump and cam belt change. (Water pump is leaking and mechanic has advised it’s worth getting the belt done whilst it’s stripped down)
Would you advise I also get the oil pump drive belt changed? ( I have seen this mentioned in comments and on other forums)
I’m a Complete car noob and appreciate any advice. Thanks.
Car has 51k on the clock and goes in annually for a service
Hey! I'd change the waterpump and auxiliary belt. First you could remove the sump and check if your see the oil pump is clogged. And the valve cover to check the condition of the belt. If that all seems fine you should be okay with just changing the water pump and aux belt. Good luck!
Wow thanks a lot for the instant reply!
Very helpful.
I will not be doing the works myself as wouldn’t have a clue. I assume a mechanic should know the things to check, but I will mention those points you’ve raised anyway just to make sure.
Thanks !!
@@Ronnie-ku8bk youre welcome!!
Что то современные двигатели через чур излишнее сложными стали делать 😢. Механик молодец! легко справляется! на 50.30 мин. привод маслонасоса на ремне это страшное дело, при первом хорошем морозе срежет зубья это точно!
Great work 😊
You forgot the filter for the turbo oil feed that's behind the timing cover and also the one-way valve for vacuum part of the diaphragm was in the oil pick up
My only explanation for the wet belt system: Ford hates mechanics and their customers equally 😂
So much work to change this damn thing. No wonder it is so expensive to get it changed.
Hi Nichlas
you say you forgot to film the 60 newton meters on the crank ball but in the video I saw you tensioned 70 neutral meters first how do you tension 60 neutral meters when you have tensioned 70 neutral meters or is it only 70 Newton meters and 5 × 90°
Rg Kenneth 😀😀🙏🙏
The 70 nm is done without the torque multiplier. The torque multiplier is then installed and tightened to 60nm on the input side, which is 300nm on the output side. The final 5x90° is equivalent to 90° without the multiplier.
thanks for your answer but I don't have that tool Multiplier so I just have to tighten the pulley on the crankshaft 70 Newton meters and then 5 × 90° is it correct 😀🙏
NO! Without a torque multiplier, you tighten to 70Nm, then 300Nm, then 1/4 turn. Good luck! I have just done it with the multiplier and it is still hard work. @@kennethlarsen6330
Hi Nick, Great Job. Really it gives more information on how to work step by step changing the timing belt. I need one information on the part number. my car is 2012 Ford Focus 1.0 100hp in UK. When i checked the part number in ford website shows 1760650 . But in your video it shows 1807611 for the same engine. is there any difference between these two belts.
Hey, what is your engine code?
@@MechaNick_ where can I find the engine code? I bought the car as used.
@@balanrajan4152 Its hard to explain, theres some videos explaining it.
@@mathewnewton3499 Thank you for the clarification. I went to near by ford showroom and have given my Reg no to ford spares counter and asked them to check. To my surprise even they have no idea which one is the correct size for my car. They suggest me to remove the belt and bring it and they can get me the correct size belt.
We always use the 18mm belt. The sprockets are big enough for the wider belt.
Bravi ottimo lavoro
ECOBOOM 💥💥
Hallo Nikölas,
I have changed my auto Ford focus 1.0 ecoboost mk3 2012 Wet belt.
Turning on the key ignition sounds like blast before engine start.!!!
Any idea what sound it could be??
Thankyou in advance
Hey, please send a video to futyi95@gmail.com
Brilliant video
Where do you use the “engine lifter”? I mean where do you mount the hook to the engine?
Hello, I need to do this and appreciate the trouble you have gone to. My engine code is M1JE, will this be the same procedure? Thanks.
I am not a 100 % sure, but the same tools are used so theres a chance its exactly the same procedure. Maybe a different belt or tensioner, or parts.
EcoBoost-ASMR❤
Ta mate ,reason I asked, my ex car that my son now has is around 80k miles.I do 6k oil changes,dont know what to advise him when to change.150k seems high risk,but it being a big expensive job (how much ?), dont want to do before its needed.Any thoughts..??
Hey! The cost of this job variates...check the condition of the belt by removing the valve cover or oil pan.
Ciao Nicholas, Wish you are here in Italy. Ill come to you do my belt change at whatever cost you asking.
Ciao, that sounds positive :D Whats going on?
Vente a Canarias y verás cuántos mecánicos hay que han hecho estas distribuciones ,,no es tan malo como lo pintan ,el horario de la casa es de 8 h el trabajo ,un mecánico normal ,el primero tarda ,pero ya los otros van como tiros ,,,yo ya tardo un poco más de 6 h,,,vamos bajando y todo garantizado,,