The crankshaft locking tool is in fact just a long M10 screw with standard thread pitch (1,25mm), that serves as a stop when tighening the big center screw (300Nm+90°). Don't have a torque wrench that goes that high? Use a pipe and a scale. 10N=1kg. 1kg on a 1m lever is 10Nm. So 30kg*1m lever=300Nm. The only other tool you need to replace the toothed belts is a holder for the aux belts (6PKsomething) wheel. I made one myself. Also use a 5mm drill bit to lock the wheel. Is has counterweights on it, so assembling in the wrong position would cause vibrations. Used this on a SFJA and some other 1.0 eb. For the camshafts, a straight edge is all you need. Just check if the flats on the cams are flat if crankshaft is on tdc. Thats it. No tool needed for VVT either.
@@mathiasknudsen6469 i don't have an exact number, but you won't need one. I took a 70mm long M10 Bolt and a nut on it. It won't be in all the way, 70mm was just the one laying around. Set first cylinder TDC, screw the 10mm bolt in just by hand until you feel it is touching the crankshaft. Now you can counter the nut (or just leave the M10 bolt be, nothing will happen). For TDC: Turn the engine clockwise using the big 20mm crankshaft bolt until TDC is reached. You can verify TDC via a 1/4" elongation shaft (or something similar) that you stick in the spark plug hole of the first cylinder, that is the cylinder next to the timing belt or farthest from the gearbox. The shaft will come out of the hole until your reach TDC.
Well done, this works, you don't need to buy the multiplier. I personally only rely on the flywheel locking tool for the final torque/angle, I remove all other tools, but for sure this method is a solid alternative for the torque multiplier.
I’ve recently replaced the wet belt on my 1.2 PSA engine, I also relied on the locking pin to hold the crank, I was so worried it might of caused the cast aluminium bell housing to crack though under the stress
Good job! I have a question. How did you loosen the crankshaft bolt? With a long pole? Did you do this before removing the right engine mount? I have a multiplier tool, but I don't want to remove the right front axle (Ford Focus Restyle 2015). Best regards
@rg8203 then just put cilinder 1 in tdc, fit the camshaft locking tools, LOCK the flywheel after you remove the starter, and undo the bolt with a long bar. I have another guide on this engine.
@@MechaNick_ Thank you for the quick reply! I also saw the other video (for Ford 2013). And if I compare with this video, then the question arises, does the drive shaft really need to be removed if the multiplier tool is not attached here? In this video the drive shaft has not been removed. (The crankshaft locating pin on my 2015 Ford Focus Ecoboost 1.0 (M1DD) is accessible without removing the driveshaft. It is also clear that the flywheel also needs to be secured.) As I understand it, I only need to remove the driveshaft to attach the multiplier tool.
The crankshaft locking tool is in fact just a long M10 screw with standard thread pitch (1,25mm), that serves as a stop when tighening the big center screw (300Nm+90°).
Don't have a torque wrench that goes that high? Use a pipe and a scale. 10N=1kg. 1kg on a 1m lever is 10Nm. So 30kg*1m lever=300Nm. The only other tool you need to replace the toothed belts is a holder for the aux belts (6PKsomething) wheel. I made one myself. Also use a 5mm drill bit to lock the wheel. Is has counterweights on it, so assembling in the wrong position would cause vibrations. Used this on a SFJA and some other 1.0 eb. For the camshafts, a straight edge is all you need. Just check if the flats on the cams are flat if crankshaft is on tdc. Thats it. No tool needed for VVT either.
how long does the m10 bolt need to be to hold the crankshaft in the right position when timing?
@@mathiasknudsen6469 i don't have an exact number, but you won't need one. I took a 70mm long M10 Bolt and a nut on it. It won't be in all the way, 70mm was just the one laying around. Set first cylinder TDC, screw the 10mm bolt in just by hand until you feel it is touching the crankshaft. Now you can counter the nut (or just leave the M10 bolt be, nothing will happen). For TDC: Turn the engine clockwise using the big 20mm crankshaft bolt until TDC is reached. You can verify TDC via a 1/4" elongation shaft (or something similar) that you stick in the spark plug hole of the first cylinder, that is the cylinder next to the timing belt or farthest from the gearbox. The shaft will come out of the hole until your reach TDC.
@@tschaeikaei3 Perfect thank you!
Well done, this works, you don't need to buy the multiplier. I personally only rely on the flywheel locking tool for the final torque/angle, I remove all other tools, but for sure this method is a solid alternative for the torque multiplier.
I’ve recently replaced the wet belt on my 1.2 PSA engine, I also relied on the locking pin to hold the crank, I was so worried it might of caused the cast aluminium bell housing to crack though under the stress
Same xD I was anxious hahaha
I've had that happen on a Ford Focus trying to get the crank pulley off
Good job! I have a question. How did you loosen the crankshaft bolt? With a long pole? Did you do this before removing the right engine mount? I have a multiplier tool, but I don't want to remove the right front axle (Ford Focus Restyle 2015). Best regards
@rg8203 then just put cilinder 1 in tdc, fit the camshaft locking tools, LOCK the flywheel after you remove the starter, and undo the bolt with a long bar. I have another guide on this engine.
@@MechaNick_
Thank you for the quick reply! I also saw the other video (for Ford 2013). And if I compare with this video, then the question arises, does the drive shaft really need to be removed if the multiplier tool is not attached here? In this video the drive shaft has not been removed. (The crankshaft locating pin on my 2015 Ford Focus Ecoboost 1.0 (M1DD) is accessible without removing the driveshaft. It is also clear that the flywheel also needs to be secured.) As I understand it, I only need to remove the driveshaft to attach the multiplier tool.
@rg8203 i think you can just remove the drive shaft bearing that is attached to the block.
Great job Nicholas, and thanks for sharing. Hey, in my view, a breaker bar with a pipe on the end counts as a 'torque multiplier'... ;-)
Technically it is xD
Sacré travail respect
Nice job....how much time does it take the whole procedure from start to finish?
@@doriangrecu9467 about 5 hours?
@@MechaNick_ one more thing....i see you used a 16mm timing belt, there is also a 18mm width timing belt...how can you tell which one to use?
@@doriangrecu9467 Check partslinks24 or partsouq for the correct partnumber. I asked my parts distributor Krulo.
Can you undo the crankbolt without the multipler?
Yes.
👍