The Secret to Getting Body Filler | Bondo Straight - Fast, Easy, Consistent
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Having trouble getting body filler or "Bondo" perfectly straight? This video explains in detail the secrets to getting body filler or Bondo straight with ease, speed and consistency. This will change the game for you.
Grinder/Sander: www.harborfrei...
Grinding Disc: Fiber Resin 36 grit
Filler: Auto Body Master lightweight body filler (inexpensive fillers work fine)
Cheese Grater Blade; www.stanleytoo...
1st Sand Paper: 36 grit
2nd Sand Paper: 80 grit
Primer: Auto Body Master Lacquer Primer Surfacer.
Primer Gun: www.harborfrei...
Hired a guy once,a greenhorn.I left to get paint.And when I got back he used up three boxes of my 3000 trizact trying to flatten body filler.Poor guy had to let him go,just wasn't following directions.But He sure left that body filler glossy as hell.🤭🤭🤭
🤣 That's a good one... 👍
Good story. My boss told a new guy that was installing a set of running boards on a pickup, "What every you do - don't cut them too short." You guessed it. He didn't last very long either.
I don't understand why 13 people disliked this video. It's free education and provides information to beginner and expert alike. I've just started a job where I use filler and I have learned a lot already watching these .
Thanks for the support Darkwillow - I appreciate that :)
Most of the time people dislike videos on accident. I’ve done it before when I’ve gone back to old videos.
@@darkwillow57 i mean to be fair 3500 people liked it
@@rosshopkins2063 you're right. It doesn't matter what you post somebody will be contrarien
You're the first to alert me about using too fine of paper in a prior video and how it will skip over working the filler down. Even though i had that very problem doing filler, I didn't realize too fine of paper would get you. I thought it just may take longer. Fallowing your advice I'm not having those issues anymore. Thanks so much for these videos. They've made my life so much easier when doing filler.
I'm so happy to hear that. I'm glad it made life easier for you too. Thanks for the support and you're very welcome. Have a good weekend my friend. Keep me updated on any projects you do - have a good weekend :)
Same!!!!
666 the 6th
You don't see many guy's using a cheese grater anymore
Jerry you are the clearest, best body repair teacher out there. I have memory fog at 73yrs old and I go back for refreshers every time before I decide to work on my old truck. THANK YOU!
You're welcome Gordon - I appreciate the support my friend. Have a great week :)
I don't think I've ever learned this much in 8 minutes! Thank you for the clear, concise education
You're welcome my friend - thanks for watching :)
Great explanation on how to do the feathering. Thanks Jerry. Have a good week AL
Thanks 👍 - have a good week :)
You can’t go wrong, following that advice! 👍
not sure if you guys gives a damn but if you guys are stoned like me during the covid times then you can watch all the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Been watching with my girlfriend for the last few months xD
@Tatum Deshawn definitely, I've been using InstaFlixxer for since december myself :D
@Tatum Deshawn Definitely, I've been using InstaFlixxer for since december myself :)
awesome demo!!!
Well explained always love these short videos I think you should do more of these video you explained well on the flat serfice now I would not mind seeing the Same video but on a curved panal thank you for the video jery always looking out for you
Good suggestion Husky - I'll put that on the list of videos to make. Glad you appreciate the content. Have a good weekend my friend :)
Thank you I appreciate your lessons very much 😊 you explain things very well and make it easy to understand 😊
You're very welcome - glad they help and you appreciate the style of teaching :)
Junk tailgate! you could have that looking good as new in no time.
Great video. Been a few years since I used filler. Starting a new project. This is a great reminder.
Good demo....that was my problem when I first started... Not starting off rough enough.....
Thanks for the support KC - have a good weekend:)
EXCELLENT VISUAL . THANK YOU JERRY. The cheese grater tip you taught me has been invaluable.
I’m attempting to fill a fend on my car and this video helped a lot not just with knowledge but to cherish your old folks dads and gramps they have knowledge. I wish my dad was still around so I can sit and watch him work one more time.
Great quick videos- excellent work- i love your channel ! im able to do body work finally thanks to you. You get right to the point which i love.
Thank you so much for the support - love to hear stuff like that :)
Awesome job, as always!
If you need some panels to work on.
My 2007 silverado needs rockers.
Lol
I'll keep that in mind :)
its polishing more than cutting
I watch every one of your video's and keep learning from you.
This video was so simple but covered really important steps when using and sanding filler. Absolutely excellent tutorial
Thankyou for sharing
Thanks so much - glad to hear that :)
Bro 😎 I know nothin on doing body work, but inherited a 1969 Chevy impala and did the metal work to replace the rust, but your knowledge is worth millions for me as I am now doing the bondo and thanks 🙏 for sharing your experience it help me a lot!!!!!!
You found the right channel if you want to get good at rust repairs, large dents, collision, etc. Feel free to ask ?s too - I get to them every day :)
One of the best in the business…another great video Jerry!
Thanks UPK - nice to always hear from you :)
@@LakesideAutobody where is you shop . You are great
@@NasirKhan-ll5ci Northern Michigan - St. Helen - Have a good weekend Nasir.
Good job 👍🏾
I always learn a thing or two whenever I watch your videos, Thanks Jerry! BA
You're welcome BA :)
I hate trying to do body work
Follow these rules and you'll start liking it - really :)
I use a paintstick cause someone keeps stealing my blocks.
can you make a tutorial on how to hide your sanding blocks and or retrieving a missing block without the use of throwing wrenches?
You're a great teacher, thank you for all of your content.
I appreciate that Lumpy - enjoy the week :)
This is exactly the advice I needed, thanks!!!
You're so welcome - glad it helped :)
I took paint and body in vocational. I had a problem with the metal swelling up, causing me problems
How did the metal swell up?
Probably one of the best autobody channels on youtube. learned more in several videos than in autobody class.
I appreciate that Jimmy :)
You wouldn't have to use a grater to take off The Ridges if you used a bigger Bondo spreader😅
There will always be excess filler to remove. Even if it was completely flat, I would still use a grater. Fast, clean, accurate - have a good weekend TTT 😊
Great video. Please what is address of your auto body shop
👍
👍👍
Thank you for sharing this secret I’ve been struggling with body filler adding and removing, vicious cycle, no one and I mean no one on TH-cam has ever explained it well like you have. You’ve saved me a lot of work. By the way what body filler do you recommend? I usually by the can that says Bondo on it, bit not sure if that’s a good one, someone told me that one shrinks.
Thanks again!
No body filler shrinks. I think folks like to say stuff like that 'cause it makes them sound knowledgeable. I buy the cheapest filler I can find. It's all the same. It's all made with the same materials. Some have fancier names, stuff added, etc. but it's the same - don't let anyone convince you otherwise. Always feel free to ask ?s - even if they seem simple or you should know :)
Good advice. At the shop we refer to 40 and 80 as cheese graters
Ok thanks, I think the angle grinder and flap disc was my issue. I need to use blocks and be patient. Thank you for responding
When I sand mine it doesn't look like that
Working on my 99 Dakota what grit of sandpaper did you use with DA SANDER and final sanding before base coat thanks for all your videos
You can DA sand with anything from 240 - 320. I use 240 sometimes even 220. It cuts faster and you'll never see any sand scratches in the paint. Your choice though ...
Thats great guidance Jerry ….. Cheers
A great demonstration. I need to buy a better file after watching this. I have the same red sanding block. I've used it for about 40 years. Thanks for a good video.
You're welcome RS - have a good week :)
Great video. I have just learnt something from you. Cheers
That's good to hear :)
Your illustration ,was the best I've seen explained in 50 yrs working on cars. GREAT !
Thanks MindDezign. I really appreciate that. Have a great week my friend :)
He's like Bob Ross when he explains how to do the work
How about the air bubble holes??? B4 you applied the primer and after your sanding?
What to use..
If you see any, it's good to sort of open them up and use either regular filler (a nice tight coat), 2K glazing compound or even the old fashioned lacquer putty - I like that stuff. Dries super fast and works well if you don't take advantage of it. This stuff - Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, 00907ES, 4.5 oz, 1 Tube
Very well presented, showing the concept in an easy to understand manner, then taking that concept and showing real example. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful - you're very welcome :)
What if you're working on a curved surface? Do you still use the flat block? Are the flexible blocks just for finish work?
There were never flexible block until recently so they are really not necessary - unless you really like them. I don't - I always want my block straight as an arrow - every shape curved or straight can be done with a straight block. Very rarely you might try something fancy with a short piece of round rubber hose but.... Ask more questions if you need - it that doesn't clear things up :)
Good tips on taking down Bondo. Much appreciated!!!
Glad you liked it - have a good weekend :)
You should finish it with 240 for primer or its all going to sink down the road those 80 grit sandpaper scratches are way to deep for the primer to fill even puddy will sink into them 6 months down the road...
You always finish filler with 80 - that's just the rule. Primer surfacer takes care of those 80 grit scratches. That's how it's been done in body shops around the nation for years - it just works.
Ok that is good for a flat repair but how about a contour repair? like say in the rounded part of a fender? Cant very well use flat because of the contour.
Most body guys in dealerships or private shops use flat blocks for everything - See these vids for examples: th-cam.com/video/-66tf0tpeqo/w-d-xo.html or th-cam.com/video/cGdwl6PSksU/w-d-xo.html
That was an awesome visual learning tool. I had never realized that using too fine sandpaper when blocking would leave the hump of filler. The way you presented it makes perfect sense!
Thanks for the support Clark. Have a great weekend and thanks for watching :)
I am a air tool guy. I would have jitter bugged that then 80 grit hand sand. then 180 grit then prime i do not prime over 80 grit sand scratches. Not a fan of using a cheese grater.
Thanks for your input FB 👍
thanks, really helps.
So does size matter ? lol Like use a long block where you can to keep it straighter than a shot block like you use in video? Great stuff !
Yes. You want to "bridge" the dent, not ride over the bumps :)
Thanks, great simple advice.
You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it Alan :)
Still learning excellent.Thanks
When I hear your intro music I feel like I am watching a Wayne and Garth intro but I you do have great videos
Thanks Michael - what type of music do you like?
I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
You're welcome Cody - glad you like the videos. Have a good week :)
Such primer it’s best for a nude metal ? Filler primer 1k
Any automotive grade primer 1K or 2K as long as it is direct to metal - meaning it can be spray right over bare metal. Also, since body work has been done and it's not always perfectly straight you'll need to use a primer "surfacer" - it has to say "primer surfacer" to build thickness for block sanding. So you can use any brand lacquer primer surfacer, polyester primer surfacer, or urethane primer surfacer.
Hello Jerry! I always learn and enjoy your great videos. I keep hearing the term "D.A." Can someone tell me please? Concerning haircuts back in the day, D.A. stood for Duck's Ass. lol
Thanks and Cheers from Motown.
What do you call that first tool that you used to shave off the gummy filler?
That is a Stanley Surform 21-299 :)
Great Video regarding the right Paper. Why wouldn’t you use a Long Board as the surrounding area is flat and wouldn’t allow you to take too much off. Also why wouldn’t you use a Straight Edge to check for highs or lows?….and no guide coat.
You'll use a long board or medium (10") board when blocking (block sanding your primer surfacer). You could used it now but you'll end up with sand scratches in the paint surrounding the dent. You'll have to DA sand those out or you'll end up possibly seeing those down the road in the paint job. A straight edge can never tell you enough - you'll get it absolutely perfect when you block sand your primer (with a guide coat). You never need a guide coat with filler. Generally you get it super close with filler.... then perfection with primer surfacer :)
@@LakesideAutobody
Well that makes sense… I wasn’t trying to tell you what to do as you obviously know what to do, I guess I was jumping the Gun… Thanks for the advice.
Awesome video. I have one question, at the end of the video you said Im gonna hit this with the D.A and then prime the panel. Did you go over the entire repair with the DA or just the edges? And what grit sand paper was used?
Good question. Just feathered the edges. You can start with 120 and as you move out further (don't want primer on shiny paint) you switch to 220-240 and then even further out you can scuff with the red scuff pad (optional) but just to make sure primer goes on prepared paint :)
What does DA stand for?
@@SamToshi dual action
Is rustolium automotive spray can primer ok to use.
Yes. It sticks well, and performs well but isn't the greatest for block sanding - IOW it doesn't build thickness as well and professional primer surfacers. Fine for general repairs and general body work though :)
Was that an epoxy primer?
You'll want to use a primer surfacer - lacquer, urethane or polyester. Epoxy doesn't build thickness and doesn't sand well - clogs the paper. I was using lacquer primer surfacer - all primer surfacers work well - just depends on what you like or what is affordable to you :)
My new favorite channel.
Thanks - that made my day - glad you like it Chris. Have a good week :)
Oh man, I'm doing a fiberglass kit and one corner looks nothing like the other corner.
I've had some luck with a couple of contour gauges and cardboard templates to get the basic shape.
It was so bad I didn't know what to do,so I taped graph paper on it and plotted it out basically.
Yeesh!
Anyway, I've been using resin and microbaloons,or milled glass fibers for real thick fill areas.
I'm sure I'm not the first to do this ,but it's really helped me a lot ,and that's putting tape on top of the filler.
It seems like I can stretch it around a corner when the filler is wet and get a better corner and less sanding.
Haha I'm just hoping to learn enough to save a lot of money before this thing gets painted.
I've got the beginning of the project on my channel, but TBH it's been such an overwhelming project I've got the last 2yrs of it filmed ,but no time to edit and upload, hah I need a producer 😂
4:38 I didn't know it was legal to go in circles while blocking 😃
I can do that ?
I thought you had to do the usual back and forth, then up and down ,and then an X across that to get it flat.
@@MrTheHillfolk You can go in any direction you need to get the panel straight. Do not listen to that - it's internet stuff. In fact circles help a lot in certain situations - as long as you are not constantly using the same pattern, you're fine :)
@@LakesideAutobody good deal, I've picked up alot of handy tips so far and will be trying alot of them very soon, I get a few evenings during the week for the project.
Kinda can't wait to see better and faster results 👍
Do you not have to worry about the grater doing deep scratches around your work area?
Not really because it's always "riding" higher than those surfaces. If it does hit them, it's with light pressure and hardly ever cuts or scratches. You can always DA sand out any damage from it anyway. Always remember, straight comes first then smoothness. So.. get your body work perfect then worry about scratches, etc.
@@LakesideAutobody "Straight comes first then smoothness" this was the perspective i needed. thank you
I’ve been all over this channel. I have a very large BMW 7 series door that was hit below the window and above the body line. It’s a long crush dent. I popped out as much as possible. I put bondo on the difference. I just can’t get an eye for needing more or less. What’s the skill to figuring that out?
This video may help - th-cam.com/video/rIoNhu166Hw/w-d-xo.html
First, you can run your hand over it and feel for waves - highs and lows. Second, you should be using a long board to sand the filler. If you hit metal (high spot) or the filler feathers out on the ends, your done. Don't force the edges to feather out - just let it happen keeping the board flat. If in doubt, spray with a coat or two of primer surfacer, hit it with the long block and see what the panel shows/tells you. Let me know if this helps and keep asking ?s
@@LakesideAutobody thank you. Can definitely feel the same waves. I determined I used more than enough bondo. 1 and 1/2 of those $17 cans from Harbor Freight. I started off at good metal and just started sanding until the waves were gone. The form began to show up the more I sanded those waves down. I even taped off an area, primed it, sanded it and hit it with some paint. It looked decent minus the pin holes. Ordered some glaze. Thanks again for your assistance. I’m watching the video link now.
@@paperandmedals8316 Hope it works out for you :)
What grade paper did you use with your DA sander? The 80 grit left scratches in the metal. Do you address that with the DA sander? How did you address the scratches in the metal? Is it necessary to wet sand the primer paint? Thanks!! Also, did you have to sand the painted areas before applying the primer?
Don't worry about scratches in the metal - the primer surfacer takes care of them. Here's the next step - th-cam.com/video/S8OzM13iwHA/w-d-xo.html After block sanding you'll prime again, finish sand w/ a DA and 320 grit or wet sand by hand with 320-400, then paint. Every one does it a bit different but you find what grits work best for you :)
@@LakesideAutobody Really so nice of you to get back and share your expertise. Thanks again!!!!
@@michaelstark777 You're welcome Michael :)
Excellent clear explanation
Glad you enjoyed it :)
best filler video on you tube
Thanks Lazy C. I appreciate the comment - have a good weekend :)
Like a school but better explained. Thanks for these videos. I'll be doing my 03 Ram ,totally body restoration and I'm going in with nothing but YT videos and the will complete this. I follow lots of your videos.
Ask any ?s along the way. I answer comments 1-2 times a day. Jerry
3 years later and still extremely helpful. Thank you sir, much appreciated 👍
Glad it helped - have a good week :)
Recently discovered your channel......plz keep doing these short steps vids, I learn something new every time.
Glad you like those types of videos my friend. I'll keep doing them. I do have a whole list of ones like that I have to get to from questions folks ask but been really busy lately. I'll get to them though - thanks for watching and the support :)
Hi Jerry, I think your just great. Learning and practicing and getting better each day! Thanks for sharing all your experience.
Your Chanel’s production is really about perfect. Your friendly and I learn better because you stay on topic. Thanks so much !
You're very welcome Eric - glad you enjoy the videos :)
Seriously thank you, a few videos and i was able to fix someones car i tapped the other day. Bought them a new tail some compound polish and a dime size area of filler is the only thing that was scaring me but your videos made me feel very confident.
Great to hear - glad they could help. Thanks for watching :)
Block sanded the dry erase board! Awesome demo there, guy at the bar was laughing when I said I made the mistake of block sanding drywall mud work like a car haha 😆 I got some USC brand filler all grip 47, stuff really sands well and made feathering make more sense to me, it was like $35 gallon 🤘🏽
This may sound nuts but my wife and I bought an old bungalow just outside of Detroit in the 90's and I fixed all the plaster cracks with body filler (couldn't wait for drywall mud to dry) and the bondo hog. V'd them out a bit, spread the filler, blocked them and painted. The cracks never came back in the 21 years we lived there. My new father in law thought I was an idiot :)
Thanks for the pointers! Remembering to stay ON TOP of the filler and not forcing the feathering. That's the part I have the hardest time with.
You're welcome. You can't force it - have to let the sharp sand paper and the straight board do the work. I think the most important thing is sharp, aggressive sand paper to cut through instead of riding over :)
Do you have a part number for the body file that you're always using in your videos? Love your work, I've learned so much.
This one will do you just fine - this one is from 1986 - the pad wore out so I replaced it with a sole from a flip flop sandal from dollar general - it was really flat and had the right amount of give - too soft (no good) too hard (no good). Glad you enjoy the videos and you are learning a lot - have a good weekend my friend :)
Great video 👍
Thanks 👍
All these years I have been sanding and sanding and sanding some more. I do use that Sureform rasp but I never thought about doing it to get the majority of the filler down. Jerry your videos are short and right to the point. And I can tell that you do the work cuz your hands are all dirty and cut. Thanks for the video
I'm glad it helped you out - you're welcome my friend :)
7:22 If its been primered and fixed dent wise- i understand final sanding the primer- but then WHY add more primer? and sand that again too? WHy cant you sand the primer thats already there and be ready for base? Im lost there.
You add more primer or a final coat of primer because the first heavy coat of primer surfacer was used to get the panel absolutely perfect but there are heavy sand scratches and maybe you blocked through to metal. Therefore you have to give it another coat of primer for finish sanding purposes. Let me know if that helps you out a bit :)
Wow i love your teaching skills. This channel is my autobody school 👨🎓👍
I appreciate that Vicshone - makes my day. Have a good weekend :)
Good videos. I Learned many new technics watching your videos✌✌💪💪
Thanks a lot - it's good to hear things like that - good motivation :)
good lesson,I'd like to think auto body instructors would recommend things like this to students,all I had were the older guys to teach me in the 80's and 90's
Thanks Richard - have a good end of the week my friend :)
Fantastic info
Glad it was helpful 👍
Excellent video thanks. I have a bad habit of getting impatient and feathering edges too soon, see the error of my ways now.
Did lots of Internet research and many advocate epoxy primer to encapsulate rust. However, I want to be able to put body fill over primer to fix low spots. A Urethane primer surfacer may be a better choice, am I correct?
Yes - primer surfacer (urethane, lacquer, or polyester) is the answer to block sanding and getting a dent perfectly straight. Epoxy primer doesn't build thickness or sand very easily :)
Would it make any sense to use Epoxy as the foundation to encapsulate the surface then cover it with a primer surfacer; or is that overkill? Time and extra cost would not be an issue. I’m not concerned at all about flash rust. However, the micro pitting and pock marks led me to believe epoxy was necessary. My car is completely sanded down to metal. I am now In the process of applying fill DTM and block sanding of areas I had to weld in patches.
@@frankkennedy5361 Really you only need to use epoxy if you are going to leave it outside for a long time before working on it again. Otherwise use DTM urethane, lacquer, or polyester (only for really rough areas) primer surfacer. Up to you though - epoxy is not going to make or break the paint job :)
@@LakesideAutobody Car will rarely be outside except on good weather days. Appreciate your reply. I have learned much from your videos. You make things look uncomplicated and I like your no nonsense narration that support the videos.
@@frankkennedy5361 Thanks Frank - appreciate the support. Have a good weekend :)
You should show how to use guide coat , guide coat the dented area to show the exact damage and how large of an area you need to grind clean, then feather the paint edges, then Bondo and more guide coat , no guess work that way and you can see perfectly how straight and sanded correctly no guessing , that helps the diy guys a bunch
Nice idea - I'll try to incorporate that in a filler video in the future :)
What sandpaper did you DA the edge white ?
You can knock the grinder marks down with 80 then move to 120 - further out you'll hit it with 220-320 just so that you don't have primer on shiny paint - or you can scuff out further. Here's a video that may help with that - th-cam.com/video/pjXkhi1E7hQ/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody thanks i really appreciate your knowledge
Do you have a recommendation for the long board with the wood handle that you use in the video? Thanks Tom
The reason I like this one over others is because it has the better clamps on the end - they hold very tight if you use non stick paper. www.eastwood.com/contour-rigid-sanding-board-2-75-in-x-17-in.html Other ones are good too like this: www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/17-sanding-board-6075/aes-tools?gclid=
By the way thanks for everything you do and you are the reason that I am even going to even try to do this I have learned so much from you thank you for all your videos
You're welcome Darrel - I appreciate that. Let me know how your projects go and if you need to ask stuff - feel free.
I appreciate you grinding your metal instead of putting filler over paint
Thanks - couldn't put filler over paint where I worked. If you did, you better get it primed quick before the boss saw it :)
Excellent presentation skills. I mean that, very well done.
Thank you very much J M - I appreciate the support :)
Well explained and illustrated. Your techniques and examples are practical and extremely useful. Thank you.
You're welcome Frank - have a good day :)
You are a great teacher Jerry. Clear and to the point. This is one I will watch several times! Do you have a spot putty that you recommend that has minimal shrinkage for filling deep scratches and small imperfections?
Thanks
Tom
For deep scratches or imperfections it's good to use a 2 part putty like - www.evercoat.com/product-detail/part-number/100400/us/ For real minor stuff you'll be fine with something like this: www.amazon.com/Bondo-Brand-Company-651-Glazingspot/dp/B002Q1AHP4/ref=sr_1_2?crid=NTUHDWWJAIYR&dchild=1&keywords=bondo+glazing+putty&qid= Thanks for the support and have a good weekend :)
Very good! That's how you do it and make money. You can leave the block out of it and use 36 grit on a mud hog first (after the file). Prime it and block with 80 grit. then prime it again and block with 180. Prime again and sand with 320 then paint.
Thanks for the input David - that's how you make money :)
Have you seen the price of a quality primer lately?
What kind of primer would be recommended to go over filler work?
Any automotive primer surfacer will work fine. I'm OK with lacquer primer - I used it my whole life and have no problems with it. Other folks like urethane primer surfacer which is fine with me too but costs more. Then there's polyester primer or feather fill - which is basically the thickest primer surfacer available :)
When making patch panels, do you use a metal brake?
I do have one but it's not big enough for door bottoms and things like that. At shops I worked at we did not have a brake. We would buy door bottoms pre bent, patch panels, or make them using a large vice, clamping metal between two pieces of hardwood and bending a lip, etc. You don't need anything fancy - mainly a vice, two long pieces of straight hard wood that can be clamped together to bend metal over, and various objects to bend metal around like pipes, rims, etc.
D A Sand?
Here's a video on it - th-cam.com/video/H6u13RUJKew/w-d-xo.html 😊
So if the edge is still high then so is the rest of the bondo?
Yes - usually. If you didn't spread the filler wide enough then the whole thing is probably still low. You can prevent this from happening by really studying the dent or low area before ever filling or preparing for filler :)
@@LakesideAutobody Yeah, I was working on this quarter the other day that was previously worked on and I was given a time limit so I force feathered the edges and only created more work for myself. lol
@@dinotom4789 It's very tempting - done it many times. I mess up all the time because of rushing or impatience 😊