Gotta say, I have never seen anyone THAT comfortable mixing and spreading such large batches of filler. I don't think I eyeball any more hardener than you, but as soon as I start mixing, the stress begins. And, more often than not, it seems to go off sooner than I anticipated. I do live in a warm SoCal climate, so maybe I should just use less hardener than I typically eyeball. I'm hopeful to finish my car before GNRS 2025, it's got a spot in the Suede Palace. New sub!
I've just discovered your channel. I've been spreading g body filler all my life but not on cars I'm a propmaker for movies. I've just started a restoration of my Lada Niva so am watching your episodes intently, picking up some great tips. I'm coming up for 70 years old and dead keen. I'm also glad you refer to it as body filler ( like we do in UK) not bondo.
I just retired from being a pipeline inspector. I am restoring older pickup trucks, and was blown away by your content ! Super quality, and you explain your moves perfectly ! New subscriber and am super happy I found you !!
I’m recently retired and bought a 68 Galaxy fastback that’s all steel but has dings and scrapes and lots of old paint cracking and wear. I bought a DA and a paint gun and watching lots of videos. I want to prep my car for the painter as best as I can, but he says he might guide coat and block the bigger areas before he paints the car, since I am a novice to say the least. I’m not too bad at spreading filler and then cheese grating and sanding it down but I don’t want waves or fisheyes so I will pay the painter/bodyman to do the final work. A 68 Galaxy fastback is not a 100k car even when perfect so I’m not too concerned about perfection. If it’s a very glossy “2 footer” I will be happy.
Hi guys, we visited your shop back in the day when Bill Papke (RIP) took us around to one of your open days. Good to see you’re still at it. Cheers. Jimmy, New Zealand.
@@Obsidian_Mirror Yep. I'm subscribed to his channel. He also uses the Rage Ultra Xtra. It has like a 40 minute work time for large areas. Helps get the overlap lines out.
Especially with roofs hoods and trunks.... large flat areas.... Drywall knives are the most effective and efficient tools use to apply plastic filler to a panel..... And they come in widths up to 24"..... This automatically makes the application much smoother and more consistent to the shape.
Just subscribed. Love watching you work.. You lay that filler down with precision. When you poured out that filler on your board I’m thinking I could never do that much filler without seeing it set up before I finish. Gotta be some method for that not to happen to you. Beautiful work. Thanks for a great video.
I'll take it down more personally I like seeing the high spots. Not so their actual proud but just to the point there's a transparent micro layer of filler over the high spot. I'm satisfied I've left the minimum amount of filler needed at that point.
I've been out of the auto body business for many years, back then it was a cardinal sin to spread filler over paint. I'm sure the newer prodcuts are much different than what I used in the 80's-90's.
thats alot of mudd ,, arent you worried about it cracking and blistering back out after a few years ?? my dad had a collision shop for 30 years , and i dont ever remember him useing that much filler in any project , a collision job or a restoration .. usually we would have a body blasted , or dipped , and then replace any rust with new metal , and just work the metal make it as straight as possible and use the least amount of mudd as possible ...please explain your process and why you are doing what your doing , everyone does things different , not saying your wrong would like to learn new stuff !!!
It looks like a lot but it’s a very thin coat. It’s easier to get the panel flat this way versus the fill the dents method. It’s basically the same thing as spraying multiple coats of high build primer and then blocking. I was taught his method years ago by a friend that did amazing restoration work and it made a huge difference in the results I can get now.
It’s not how much you put on it’s how much you leave when done. Any remaining is in the low spots. Metal was previously brought to as correct shape as possible beforehand but there are always irregularities left. This is corrected by filler. Note he keeps sanding till he hits metal so the majority would be sanded off.
Auto collision shops mainly only repair a body panel or two and they are not doing a restoration on a full car. Plus by the time it's done there's very little left of filler.
I have a 65, K10 Suburban. I call it my Bondo sculpture!! This process was done to it, minus the powder coat, a few years before I bought it. I made the mistake of filling minor cracks in that body filler and then painted it again. Today the filler is dropping off in sheets. I suppose if the vehicle is kept out of the sun as much as possible it will probably fair okay?!
Good stuff right there. Went through a 3g bucket of this stuff when I skimmed my entire car. Guys think it’s a lot of mud, but 3/4 of it ends up on the floor. It’s at most 1/8-3/16 thick at a few spots, other spots not much left at all. Polyester high build (liquid filler) on top before final blocking. Straight as an arrow.
I used to do body filler, but I developped an allergy to it, I suspect the styren that's in there. It's a burning sensation and hyper sensitivity to the touch on some areas of my body and it can last for up to 3 days. So now I only do the metal work and stay away from even someone applying bondo because it will affect me.
I've watched this video a couple of times there's a lot of work to getting a car laser straight I've read a lot of comments here and I think people are stuck in old mindsets products have changed and have become a lot better from a while ago and again what is left behind is a thin coat of plastic. Most of the show cars all go through this process thats why they look so great but most don't get driven daily because it only takes one idiot to put a ding in a door or fender. Many different levels of Finnish how picky do you want to be personally I love this shop's work my hat's off to this man a true artist 😊
Can you get a decent paint job with just using the durablocks? For just a side gig that’s what I use so would the big kid blocks be an absolute must? Thanks and keep up the content!
Durablocks AND other assorted blocks etc. CAN darn near do it, NO doubt for the average pl;ayer yeah but?....IF ya really wanna go "ALL OUT" on a "real deal restoration/kustom build type of job?....The acrylic blocks DO offer lotta "nice alternative" ways to get.. Basically?,,,,,,, the SAME type of results.....But, in just a different type of way, GETTIN THERE....IF THAT, makes ANY sense.....Lol......ROCK the funk ON 😎🤘🔥🤘
We don’t do the entire body here in UK,only where it’s needed after a good flatting out,surely the bonds body will be more vulnerable to stone chips,road damage and body flex cracking?
To me, it looks like you've got a good little system down. In Australia, I worked with a Nigel, and I like his style the way he did things but called it smoothing cream. When I worked in Indiana on Indy cars, it was the same but a bit different. I had the theme from James Bond, but it changed out to Bondo, James Bondo. The bit I am interested in is the sanding blocks and different grits you use. I have a 1949 Ford convertible that is going to get the smoothing cream treatment soon. From what I see, you're very efficient in getting a good job done.
Use Icing, block spray a polyurethane primer K200 or ultimate primer surfacer sprayed out of a pressure pot goes on like cake frosting. Cover the whole car uniform .Block it off spray a guide coat and final block and have the straightest Job you’ve ever seen
ive got my jga 502 with an 80 air cap. got a mbc 510. binks 7 and a 2001 and a 62. ive still got my sioux buffer. they were good tools that made me some money, my hutchens da got stolen of id still have that too
@@michaelmaher4328 mine is a JGA I believe. Baught it used in "77" When I left the body shop, I gave my student my D.A sander ( baught used) and a Snapoff dual piston line sander. Kept my hand tools, hammers & dollies, Binks 7, FITZ &FITZ look alike. Sharp 60 series. All wrapped up waiting for me to pull them all out some day. Maybe my Son will get a feel for it, who knows
Great video. I can't wait to dig into your other videos. I think one thing that separates the pros (you) from the joes (me) is being able to get that filler mixed so thin. I'm always worried I will mix it too thin and run into a curing issue (like shrinking) sometime down the road.
Exactly what I was thinking! I use epoxy religiously Seems like the powder coat would be like sanding concrete and no adhesive qualities between filler and powdercoat. Maybe I’ve been doing it wrong for all these years🤨
Been doing filler work for 25 years, NEVER let it fully harden before shaping it with 40 grit, you'll work your ass off. Only in the final putty coats do I let it set up fully
The rage ulta specifies NOT using honey. Maybe the gold is diff. Just a heads up in case anybody wants to get super techy lol. Great vid tho Question....whats your shop temp when your spreading on that quarter panel?
Why so much filler by hand? Isn't polyester primer (G2, Raderal, Reface) or reinforced polyester (Fiber Fill) primer much easier and quicker? Just fill the low spots with filler, sand and do the rest with a 3.0 mm tip spray gun.
Wow the best tutorial…it was a satisfying to watch. Awesome job guys!! Haha I subscribed before I even knew about the giveaway…maybe I’m too late now matter. Love this channel!
@@brettresler142 These skim coats will crack in 10-15 years. Better to get the metalwork nearly perfect and use a minimal amount of filler. Blocking out high build primer will fix the wavieness.
I watched Bad Chad do complete floods like that on a entire bodies and it really seems like a whole lot of extra work he said he much prefers doing this way, is it really necessary to get the perfect finish? Is it a time saver overall? You look like you are putting in a lot labor into shaving down the flood of filler to get it to a thin coat when finished?
You are one of the biggest trolls on chads channel …. This guy double floods and u are so polite ? ….. tons of shops do this but it costs !! …id rather just fill low spots and rely on hi fill primer
Hey man, why is everyone so critical? They're not saying this is the only way, this is just their way. Plus they have a successful shop and a TH-cam channel so I don't think they're too far off.
If the panel is already almost perfect why not just spray some high build in the spots and block it in then maybe spray the entire panel and reblock and you're done especially since it's almost perfect to begin with
Why do Americans always use so goddamn much body filler? they just fill the whole panel and sand it down, wasting material and time. I understand on some panels its neccesary but they used the whole 3kg rage gold :O. A good example at 7:40 he explains he is gonna use another whole layer of rage gold just to fill in the 40 grit scratches... there might still be some things that need a layer of filler, but filling the whole panel with rage gold is mental to me. I have been using rage gold for years and its great but there are simply better products to use in that situation. or couldve used just switched to 80 and than 150 grit at the end? If someone can explain to me these american ways of working, i would love to hear it.
Im sorry, but as a pro auto restorer myself, all that filler work is way too over filled. Needs way more blocking down to the metal. Shoddy work sorry.
It must be cool where this was shot. If I mix that much conventional filler here in Central Florida right now, it would go off while Im mixing it. I've gone exclusively to Rage Ultra and Ultra Extra. They're mixed together at different ratios to change cure times. A 50/50 mix gives a solid 10 minute spread time no matter how hot it is in the shop. The best part is they sand so easily, I use 120 to knock down and 150 or 180 to finish. Eliminating 80 grit scratches is a big deal.
you said when you hit bare metal you have to stop.... either tap the spot down... or ad more filler... you left out a very important step... you must epoxy prime any bare metal break threws.... you should never... ever apply filler over bare metal
@bstevermer9293 lol one of those guys 🤦... it's been proven way after they " put it on the can" that is not correct... body filler is porous... very porous... moisture can leach threw and cause corrosion between the bare metal and filler... happens here in Florida all the time due to the moisture in the the air... and just so you know... when you use a real filler.. not bondo brand 🤣... it doesn't say to apply over bare metal " on the can " ... some people 🙄
cheapest way to get plane, even surfaces ... but boy, real proper work uses bodyfiller just where needed. Normally you spray bodyfiller and sand it down
I found the BEST way to sand Body filler (Puddy ) ! Don't apply it in the first place 😂 You put that on any of my vehicles and I'll break your fingers 😂
@@bstevermer9293 yes i do but I have repaired them without filler. It's not hard. Maybe put the camera down and spend more time practicing on metal work.
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 ธันวาคม 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dNTiBBthKgQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I am amazed where I live that much hardener will have the filler stiff as a board before getting to the panel
Gotta say, I have never seen anyone THAT comfortable mixing and spreading such large batches of filler. I don't think I eyeball any more hardener than you, but as soon as I start mixing, the stress begins. And, more often than not, it seems to go off sooner than I anticipated. I do live in a warm SoCal climate, so maybe I should just use less hardener than I typically eyeball. I'm hopeful to finish my car before GNRS 2025, it's got a spot in the Suede Palace. New sub!
I've just discovered your channel. I've been spreading g body filler all my life but not on cars I'm a propmaker for movies. I've just started a restoration of my Lada Niva so am watching your episodes intently, picking up some great tips. I'm coming up for 70 years old and dead keen. I'm also glad you refer to it as body filler ( like we do in UK) not bondo.
I just retired from being a pipeline inspector. I am restoring older pickup trucks, and was blown away by your content ! Super quality, and you explain your moves perfectly ! New subscriber and am super happy I found you !!
Thank you for sticking around. And we really appreciate the feedback. 🤝
I’m recently retired and bought a 68 Galaxy fastback that’s all steel but has dings and scrapes and lots of old paint cracking and wear. I bought a DA and a paint gun and watching lots of videos. I want to prep my car for the painter as best as I can, but he says he might guide coat and block the bigger areas before he paints the car, since I am a novice to say the least. I’m not too bad at spreading filler and then cheese grating and sanding it down but I don’t want waves or fisheyes so I will pay the painter/bodyman to do the final work. A 68 Galaxy fastback is not a 100k car even when perfect so I’m not too concerned about perfection. If it’s a very glossy “2 footer” I will be happy.
Hi guys, we visited your shop back in the day when Bill Papke (RIP) took us around to one of your open days. Good to see you’re still at it. Cheers. Jimmy, New Zealand.
Ive been using larger drywall screeds for those larger areas. The fewer overlaps, the less sanding.
@@Obsidian_Mirror
Thanks for the tip. Tricks of the trade!
@@Obsidian_Mirror
Yep. I'm subscribed to his channel. He also uses the Rage Ultra Xtra. It has like a 40 minute work time for large areas. Helps get the overlap lines out.
Especially with roofs hoods and trunks.... large flat areas.... Drywall knives are the most effective and efficient tools use to apply plastic filler to a panel..... And they come in widths up to 24"..... This automatically makes the application much smoother and more consistent to the shape.
Seen any flat panels recently?
Good idea adding fiberglass resin to your mud helps stops cracking and shrinking over the years great video
Just subscribed. Love watching you work.. You lay that filler down with precision. When you poured out that filler on your board I’m thinking I could never do that much filler without seeing it set up before I finish. Gotta be some method for that not to happen to you. Beautiful work. Thanks for a great video.
i have always added fiberglass resin to bondo as it makes the product so much better.
That's fairly old school too.
And it WORKS
I just did this on my 1960 Cadillac. I've also recently starting using Evercoat featherfll G2 sprayable polyester filler.
Just found y’all’s channel on utube of the body filling and blocking the quarters on the Elcamino really enjoyed the content thanks for sharing
I'll take it down more personally I like seeing the high spots. Not so their actual proud but just to the point there's a transparent micro layer of filler over the high spot. I'm satisfied I've left the minimum amount of filler needed at that point.
I've been out of the auto body business for many years, back then it was a cardinal sin to spread filler over paint. I'm sure the newer prodcuts are much different than what I used in the 80's-90's.
Slyvester custom likes to mix 2 different Evercoat filters together, and weigh the hardner.
Great educational video!
Thank you
thats alot of mudd ,, arent you worried about it cracking and blistering back out after a few years ?? my dad had a collision shop for 30 years , and i dont ever remember him useing that much filler in any project , a collision job or a restoration .. usually we would have a body blasted , or dipped , and then replace any rust with new metal , and just work the metal make it as straight as possible and use the least amount of mudd as possible ...please explain your process and why you are doing what your doing , everyone does things different , not saying your wrong would like to learn new stuff !!!
It looks like a lot but it’s a very thin coat. It’s easier to get the panel flat this way versus the fill the dents method. It’s basically the same thing as spraying multiple coats of high build primer and then blocking. I was taught his method years ago by a friend that did amazing restoration work and it made a huge difference in the results I can get now.
It’s not how much you put on it’s how much you leave when done. Any remaining is in the low spots. Metal was previously brought to as correct shape as possible beforehand but there are always irregularities left. This is corrected by filler. Note he keeps sanding till he hits metal so the majority would be sanded off.
Auto collision shops mainly only repair a body panel or two and they are not doing a restoration on a full car.
Plus by the time it's done there's very little left of filler.
Get er dun, get paid.
Who cares what happens 6+ yrs from now.
Cracking was in the old days . New products have changed the game .
I have a 65, K10 Suburban. I call it my Bondo sculpture!! This process was done to it, minus the powder coat, a few years before I bought it. I made the mistake of filling minor cracks in that body filler and then painted it again. Today the filler is dropping off in sheets. I suppose if the vehicle is kept out of the sun as much as possible it will probably fair okay?!
nicw work.
I allways start by puting the on jackstands and I allways do the bottoms of the rockers first
Great advice. I like that option also.
Good stuff right there. Went through a 3g bucket of this stuff when I skimmed my entire car. Guys think it’s a lot of mud, but 3/4 of it ends up on the floor. It’s at most 1/8-3/16 thick at a few spots, other spots not much left at all. Polyester high build (liquid filler) on top before final blocking. Straight as an arrow.
More than .060" demands better sheet metal work.
But who cares what happens in 6+ yrs from now.
I used to do body filler, but I developped an allergy to it, I suspect the styren that's in there. It's a burning sensation and hyper sensitivity to the touch on some areas of my body and it can last for up to 3 days. So now I only do the metal work and stay away from even someone applying bondo because it will affect me.
I've watched this video a couple of times there's a lot of work to getting a car laser straight I've read a lot of comments here and I think people are stuck in old mindsets products have changed and have become a lot better from a while ago and again what is left behind is a thin coat of plastic.
Most of the show cars all go through this process thats why they look so great but most don't get driven daily because it only takes one idiot to put a ding in a door or fender. Many different levels of Finnish how picky do you want to be personally I love this shop's work my hat's off to this man a true artist 😊
Have you ever had issues buffing out the paint without swelling up the bondo. ?
Good work man !
New subscriber and I enjoy your rationale when describing the why for nuances during you commentary !
Can you get a decent paint job with just using the durablocks? For just a side gig that’s what I use so would the big kid blocks be an absolute must? Thanks and keep up the content!
Durablocks AND other assorted blocks etc. CAN darn near do it, NO doubt for the average pl;ayer yeah but?....IF ya really wanna go "ALL OUT" on a "real deal restoration/kustom build type of job?....The acrylic blocks DO offer lotta "nice alternative" ways to get.. Basically?,,,,,,, the SAME type of results.....But, in just a different type of way, GETTIN THERE....IF THAT, makes ANY sense.....Lol......ROCK the funk ON 😎🤘🔥🤘
Really amazing work...loved it. 👍👍
We don’t do the entire body here in UK,only where it’s needed after a good flatting out,surely the bonds body will be more vulnerable to stone chips,road damage and body flex cracking?
To me, it looks like you've got a good little system down.
In Australia, I worked with a Nigel, and I like his style the way he did things but called it smoothing cream.
When I worked in Indiana on Indy cars, it was the same but a bit different. I had the theme from James Bond, but it changed out to Bondo, James Bondo.
The bit I am interested in is the sanding blocks and different grits you use. I have a 1949 Ford convertible that is going to get the smoothing cream treatment soon.
From what I see, you're very efficient in getting a good job done.
Use Icing, block spray a polyurethane primer K200 or ultimate primer surfacer sprayed out of a pressure pot goes on like cake frosting. Cover the whole car uniform .Block it off spray a guide coat and final block and have the straightest Job you’ve ever seen
Interesting stuff. 2:58 Wings not Fins. 59 Chevys have Wings as in Batwings. 57’s have fins.
You’re absolutely right about that whoops 😬
Subscribed! Awesome show, you do great work!
Awesome, thank you!🙏
Nice work ethic! Cheers guys!
Much appreciated!
I still have a flat file I baught 45 years ago. Still have my first DeVilbis too
ive got my jga 502 with an 80 air cap. got a mbc 510. binks 7 and a 2001 and a 62. ive still got my sioux buffer. they were good tools that made me some money, my hutchens da got stolen of id still have that too
@@michaelmaher4328 mine is a JGA I believe. Baught it used in "77"
When I left the body shop, I gave my student my D.A sander ( baught used) and a Snapoff dual piston line sander. Kept my hand tools, hammers & dollies, Binks 7, FITZ &FITZ look alike.
Sharp 60 series.
All wrapped up waiting for me to pull them all out some day.
Maybe my Son will get a feel for it, who knows
Thanks for the play by play, I am paying attention! Almost to 5k subs! I will be expecting my sweatshirt! ; )
Great video. I can't wait to dig into your other videos. I think one thing that separates the pros (you) from the joes (me) is being able to get that filler mixed so thin. I'm always worried I will mix it too thin and run into a curing issue (like shrinking) sometime down the road.
Looking good. Whats the reason for using powder coat versus an epoxy?
Exactly what I was thinking!
I use epoxy religiously
Seems like the powder coat would be like sanding concrete and no adhesive qualities between filler and powdercoat.
Maybe I’ve been doing it wrong for all these years🤨
Been doing filler work for 25 years, NEVER let it fully harden before shaping it with 40 grit, you'll work your ass off. Only in the final putty coats do I let it set up fully
Agreed. 🤝
The rage ulta specifies NOT using honey. Maybe the gold is diff. Just a heads up in case anybody wants to get super techy lol. Great vid tho
Question....whats your shop temp when your spreading on that quarter panel?
Liked and subbed from the UK 🤙
🤘
Great video.
Is ok😢 but I'm seeing to much waste expensive material and time 😅😢
Why so much filler by hand? Isn't polyester primer (G2, Raderal, Reface) or reinforced polyester (Fiber Fill) primer much easier and quicker? Just fill the low spots with filler, sand and do the rest with a 3.0 mm tip spray gun.
Very interesting UTE.
Proper cheese grater use. Not many do or show that.
chameleon body filler is underated
Great Video Mackey!
Glad you enjoyed it
Wow the best tutorial…it was a satisfying to watch. Awesome job guys!! Haha I subscribed before I even knew about the giveaway…maybe I’m too late now matter. Love this channel!
A good autobody man removes the old paint before applying filler
Exactly!
What is the purpose of putting so much body filler is it to take out the waves of the panel
That’s the only way to get them old cars straight
@@brettresler142 These skim coats will crack in 10-15 years. Better to get the metalwork nearly perfect and use a minimal amount of filler. Blocking out high build primer will fix the wavieness.
@@brettresler142
Well, kinda sorta.
More than a credit card thickness should be sheet metal worked.
Lord I hope you get big money for all this hard work.
Heres me in 30° heat wondering how cold it must be in there for that filler not to kick in 2 minutes flat.
I watched Bad Chad do complete floods like that on a entire bodies and it really seems like a whole lot of extra work he said he much prefers doing this way, is it really necessary to get the perfect finish? Is it a time saver overall? You look like you are putting in a lot labor into shaving down the flood of filler to get it to a thin coat when finished?
You are one of the biggest trolls on chads channel …. This guy double floods and u are so polite ? ….. tons of shops do this but it costs !! …id rather just fill low spots and rely on hi fill primer
Im curious why the whole panel is body filler instead of just doing the areas that were bad
because its safer . this way you will have no high or lower aera's. wenn the metal comes back with sanding. that part will be to high.
Gonna be a garage queen with $$$ paint.
What is the orange car in thr back ?
How do you attach the sandpaper to the transparent block?
Sticky back paper
a bondo bucket. gallons of bondo. Do you wait a couple of months for all that filler to cure before any paint?
Nope.
As long as it looks good now.
Excellent! How much fun IT IS, to learn Something
Agreed. Thanks for watching.
@@MackeysHotRodShopamigo que le aplicastes a la pasta después del endurecedor
Great video and info !!👍👍
Hey man, why is everyone so critical? They're not saying this is the only way, this is just their way. Plus they have a successful shop and a TH-cam channel so I don't think they're too far off.
If the panel is already almost perfect why not just spray some high build in the spots and block it in then maybe spray the entire panel and reblock and you're done especially since it's almost perfect to begin with
Why not use a power file? They work so fast cutting down the 40 grt
Great job Brian thanks guy's allways appreciate your time have a great weekend aee ya later 😎💪🏼🔥
Thanks! You too!
why put filler everywhere? shouldn't you just put it where the imperfections are?
powdercoat?
cant believe you done all that in rage gold... stuff is the worst sanding filler iv tried
Why do Americans always use so goddamn much body filler? they just fill the whole panel and sand it down, wasting material and time. I understand on some panels its neccesary but they used the whole 3kg rage gold :O.
A good example at 7:40 he explains he is gonna use another whole layer of rage gold just to fill in the 40 grit scratches... there might still be some things that need a layer of filler, but filling the whole panel with rage gold is mental to me. I have been using rage gold for years and its great but there are simply better products to use in that situation. or couldve used just switched to 80 and than 150 grit at the end?
If someone can explain to me these american ways of working, i would love to hear it.
Real nice job 👏👍👍
Thanks 🤝
Lots of bondo. It will crack . Why soooooo much mud ?
This will ad some weight to the car?
Powder coat?
new subscriber here i also do serious mud jobs on occasion but im getting lazier the older i get lol
Im sorry, but as a pro auto restorer myself, all that filler work is way too over filled. Needs way more blocking down to the metal. Shoddy work sorry.
Cheese grader for the win
🫡🧀
I also just subscribed
Subscribed !!!,
YES PLEASE !
😂 Hold my Beer I'm going in ! 😂
If you can still stand you can still sand. Rob Ormiston
OMG! The Bondo machine... smh
Uhhh remove the paint first folks. It will stick to the paint but better to apply it to the steel or epoxy primer.
The bat car if he cut and shut in the right place, oh then “block it out” right on.
It must be cool where this was shot. If I mix that much conventional filler here in Central Florida right now, it would go off while Im mixing it. I've gone exclusively to Rage Ultra and Ultra Extra. They're mixed together at different ratios to change cure times. A 50/50 mix gives a solid 10 minute spread time no matter how hot it is in the shop. The best part is they sand so easily, I use 120 to knock down and 150 or 180 to finish. Eliminating 80 grit scratches is a big deal.
Oh man I feel for ya with that humidity
we used to call those bondo buggies now it seems to be the norm and metal finishing is almost gone
Hack and pack! Find the high spot and fill to it.
That evercoat has went up so much in price
I know right!! Tell me about it!
@@MackeysHotRodShop I started using usc pro gold because I had to cut back
That's why they consider it "gold" ( for them)
Yes on price I don't see how they get so much work time I follow what they say and I get about 1/2 the time
It's ridiculous the mark up on this stuff because I know it doesn't cost them that much to make it
I prefer a 12 in spreader
That looks exhausting. I think could live with some waviness myself.
Flat black paint works !!!
Over the paint....ok,THAT'S a first for me
If you read the TDS of most filler over paint is okay but over-epoxy primer is not an acceptable practice.
That’s one way to do it.
Love building cars but LOATHE body work
you said when you hit bare metal you have to stop.... either tap the spot down... or ad more filler... you left out a very important step... you must epoxy prime any bare metal break threws.... you should never... ever apply filler over bare metal
It literally says on the can, apply over bare metal. This epoxy primer thing has gotten out of hand.
@bstevermer9293 lol one of those guys 🤦... it's been proven way after they " put it on the can" that is not correct... body filler is porous... very porous... moisture can leach threw and cause corrosion between the bare metal and filler... happens here in Florida all the time due to the moisture in the the air... and just so you know... when you use a real filler.. not bondo brand 🤣... it doesn't say to apply over bare metal " on the can " ... some people 🙄
WRONG !!!!
@@lawncuttingplusdelta .... what's wrong?
@@thomasstott527 you
cheapest way to get plane, even surfaces ... but boy, real proper work uses bodyfiller just where needed. Normally you spray bodyfiller and sand it down
Vids are killer
click bait where is the efficiency????
Alot of rookies in hear that don't know shit😂
I've seen lots of $ 15,000 paint jobs that were shit underneath...
Guys always said: "they're garage queens anyway!"
I found the BEST way to sand Body filler (Puddy ) !
Don't apply it in the first place 😂
You put that on any of my vehicles and I'll break your fingers 😂
Yeah. Sure!
He's up there with bad chad
You don’t own any old cars do you?
@@bstevermer9293 yes i do but I have repaired them without filler. It's not hard. Maybe put the camera down and spend more time practicing on metal work.
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Meh