I know that Panel beaters tend to be harsh and critisize mainly because one is not using same techniques as his. I will not do that but In this case I just want to share my input. Before I apply my first coat of body filler I make sure there are NO high spots by running my left hand straight on the entire surface and across to ensure that I DON'T HAVE TO HAMMER HIGH SPOTS ON BODY FILLER SURFACES. That way I will have less number of coats to apply. Depending on the size of surface, I generally have a two coat body filler rule( 80, 120 and 180 grit you choose) followed by glayzer coating to perfect eveness before I use GUIDE COAT which I use to pick up stratches making sure I use the smoothest grit (320) paper and edge machine the entire surrounding. Not for the feint hearted!! you have got to love and commit to guidelines from product suppliers to ensure guaranteed product quality. Keep up the Great job Sir !
I was a natural doing body work after finishing drywall on and off my entire life. I don’t like to use plastic spreaders. I use a 6 and 8 inch drywall knife. This guy is a master he has the technique down. Awesome video.
I have blocked my fair share of body filler. And that is a good educational video of how its done. I always think a individual finds his own technique a bit. And for me guide coat is good. But the feel of your hand is 👌. Great video. 🇮🇪
Helpful and well explained! I started working as a prepper almost 3 months ago with no experience at all and i like it cant wait to start learning bondo
That's definitely true, but if I replace the Fender. I would have to blend into the hood And blend into the door detrim, prep that out for paint and then probably wet sand buff it. so it kinda balances out.
I've been around auto body for 50 plus years. Some guys have it, some guys never have it. By "it," l mean the feel. Only a true body man has " the feel"
On open and light panel like this, When doing dent pulling - try to pull applying light pressure with out hitting out dent puller and just tap the surrounding high spot and you will see dent popping out. That is to avoid causing high spots which can come back to haunt you later.
He sure is, getting a good feel for filler work blocking and sanding. Next He will start painting. I definitely plan on documenting that on the channel, should be fun!
Thanks for doing this Chris and explaining what and why you are doing it throughout the video, you are very skilled at what you do as you make it look so easy and I know from experience it's not. Looking forward to the next one🙏👍John UK
I sprayed primer surfacer on the repair areas for now. The rest of my car still has some flaking clear coat but I plan to tackle the flaking paint after I fix the dents since my car is always sitting outside. My question is: Will I have to sand the primer surfacer down to the filler on the repair areas before I spray the rest of the car with primer surface? P.S. I do plan on respraying the entire care with base and clear. Appreciate the help in advance.
Love the channel brother and appreciate all you do, I’m and apprentice spray painter from Australia been in the trade for 4 years now but I feel I’m not really progressing, I been doing Bondo for 3 years now and I just can’t seem to get it right but hey I’m going to keep trying, do you have any tips for me? And could you maybe shed some light on your first couple years in the trade and how it went and what to expect? Sorry if im asking for a lot sir im just looking for some guidance, thank you
My biggest issue when started is I over pulled the metal before filler. The metal should be slightly lower so the filler can do it's job and fill the lows. The other main issue is I would sand out to much filler and end up chasing my tail. Focus on these two things and it will solve a lot of frustration.
Great work. Love your videos. One question. So, it is not important to use 2K epoxy primer on bare metal to avoid moisture from the body filler to go work on the bare metal? Or is it the quality of the body filler, so that you dont need to use 2K epoxy primer? Thanks for response.
I would say if you're doing a restoration project, I would probably use epoxy primer first. In a collision setting. It takes so much longer for it to dry and for small repairs, I don't feel it's necessary on the typical everyday driver, but there is something to be said for using epoxy over bare metal And then body filler.
The UPOL Gold filler that you used, does it have a strong chemical order? Reason I ask is because I bought this one not sure if it’s the same one, it came in a pouch that looks like a large toothpaste, as soon as I started to apply it the odor was so strong it was stinging my eyes and face I had to stop and remove it. I couldn’t use it almost through it away, luckily I took it back to the shop and they gave me 50% store credit, better than it going to the garbage I suppose, anyways please let me know if this filler has a strong scent or the like, thanks!
The filler I use id upol lightweight gold. No it doesn't have that kind of smell. Smell like filler but not overpowering and it doesn't come in a pouch.amzn.to/3JP0mpI
I'm not real specific with it. It typically depends on the temperature. 50:1 is the ratio. A good rule is not quite from the center of the puddle to the edge with hardner. If it's hot use less. Appreciate your comment!
You haven't bought parts lately, cant buy anything for 25or 30 bucks brother. Come on man, I could have bought an aftermarket fender but then I would have to blend into adjacent panels ,prepping those panels and de trimming those panels. More cost in paint. I'd rather just fix it.
Can YOU please explain where your finding a late gen Silverado front fender for 25 bucks at a junkyard? An illegal chop shop maybe and that’s still a stretch
Truth is, thay paid 8 hrs for this filler work! I had to fight for it because they wanted to pay 4. I just told them pay it or replace it. It was mor cost effective to pay the 8 hrs.
8 hours is really good time on a repair like that. Good that you stood up for yourself! Insurance companies have estimators that try to rob body techs!
@@CoreyHill-wb7gc yup that's why I got out of collision side and went into restoration and custom work but now I'm starting collision side again for older cars
Im into 70s cars and own 70s cars we hammer and dolly the panel never use filler in certin dents filler so thick it cracks in 2 to 4 years and paint job ruined alot insurance repairs are filler not hammer dolly and if dont want hammer panels ya weld new sections in
you should never put body filler over bare metal... it has been proven that that applying over epoxy does not allow corriosion between the bare metal and filler....
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I know that Panel beaters tend to be harsh and critisize mainly because one is not using same techniques as his. I will not do that but In this case I just want to share my input. Before I apply my first coat of body filler I make sure there are NO high spots by running my left hand straight on the entire surface and across to ensure that I DON'T HAVE TO HAMMER HIGH SPOTS ON BODY FILLER SURFACES. That way I will have less number of coats to apply. Depending on the size of surface, I generally have a two coat body filler rule( 80, 120 and 180 grit you choose) followed by glayzer coating to perfect eveness before I use GUIDE COAT which I use to pick up stratches making sure I use the smoothest grit (320) paper and edge machine the entire surrounding. Not for the feint hearted!! you have got to love and commit to guidelines from product suppliers to ensure guaranteed product quality. Keep up the Great job Sir !
I was a natural doing body work after finishing drywall on and off my entire life. I don’t like to use plastic spreaders. I use a 6 and 8 inch drywall knife. This guy is a master he has the technique down. Awesome video.
Thanks brother! Appreciate the comment and support!
I can relate 💪 Then I sand it with my sanding pole🤣
@@Lindawigren-pr5zhwet rag that thing and walk man!
Watching him making it look easy... I know by using drywall spackle on drywall how hard what his results are to achieve.
I’m use to body work, remodeling my house now and drywall is worse. Everything is too soft and sands off way too easy
I have blocked my fair share of body filler. And that is a good educational video of how its done. I always think a individual finds his own technique a bit. And for me guide coat is good. But the feel of your hand is 👌. Great video. 🇮🇪
Helpful and well explained! I started working as a prepper almost 3 months ago with no experience at all and i like it cant wait to start learning bondo
Right on! That's awesome! Soak in all the info you can and ask questions. 👍
Dude you got the magic touch with spreading!
Thanks brother!
Teach the technicians out here in NJ how technical you need to be ..amazing skills brother!!
👊
Dude, so much work. Buy good fender, install, paint, done! Time is money.
That's definitely true, but if I replace the Fender. I would have to blend into the hood And blend into the door detrim, prep that out for paint and then probably wet sand buff it. so it kinda balances out.
quit being lazy, for one, there’s not always a good fender available, second learn some skills and save money
@@Joseph-kq9zc you quit being lazy and make your own youtube channel
You make putting on filler so easy
Thanks!
I've been around auto body for 50 plus years. Some guys have it, some guys never have it. By "it," l mean the feel. Only a true body man has " the feel"
I always felt this way too.
Your bang on 👌. I have said this exact comment to young apprentice. You have the feel or you don't.
I’m rewatching this over and over till I get it right. Did my first filler work, and not happy
Awesome, I have a ton of other body filler video's that might help as well
On open and light panel like this, When doing dent pulling - try to pull applying light pressure with out hitting out dent puller and just tap the surrounding high spot and you will see dent popping out. That is to avoid causing high spots which can come back to haunt you later.
Yeah somtimes they come out great like that. Other times the metal is too stretched.
Darius is doing a good job. I see that he’s learning a lot and gets to do a lot of hands on now. I hope I got the name right
He sure is, getting a good feel for filler work blocking and sanding. Next He will start painting. I definitely plan on documenting that on the channel, should be fun!
I may not have put enough filler on my Silverado. But it did have glazing putty after.it felt smooth to the palm.
👍
Thanks for doing this Chris and explaining what and why you are doing it throughout the video, you are very skilled at what you do as you make it look so easy and I know from experience it's not.
Looking forward to the next one🙏👍John UK
I appreciate that!
GREAT Video as always thank you for taking your time and showing how to do things..
No problem 👍thanks for the support!
Thanks Chris, great information for us diyers as always!
Any time! Appreciate the support!
I sprayed primer surfacer on the repair areas for now. The rest of my car still has some flaking clear coat but I plan to tackle the flaking paint after I fix the dents since my car is always sitting outside.
My question is: Will I have to sand the primer surfacer down to the filler on the repair areas before I spray the rest of the car with primer surface?
P.S. I do plan on respraying the entire care with base and clear.
Appreciate the help in advance.
Love the channel brother and appreciate all you do, I’m and apprentice spray painter from Australia been in the trade for 4 years now but I feel I’m not really progressing, I been doing Bondo for 3 years now and I just can’t seem to get it right but hey I’m going to keep trying, do you have any tips for me? And could you maybe shed some light on your first couple years in the trade and how it went and what to expect? Sorry if im asking for a lot sir im just looking for some guidance, thank you
My biggest issue when started is I over pulled the metal before filler. The metal should be slightly lower so the filler can do it's job and fill the lows. The other main issue is I would sand out to much filler and end up chasing my tail. Focus on these two things and it will solve a lot of frustration.
He's a perfectionist.
Is that how it seems? Good to know, might be true.
Love your tutorials. They are so helpful. Thank you. Andy
You're very welcome! Appreciate your comment!
From Bear metal do you epoxy prime then body filler or do you body fill and then prime ?
how do you know when to switch grits. starting to get into more bodywork and i’m stuck in that cycle of sanding too much and having to add again
Thanks for the video and taking your time to show us.
Any time! Appreciate the comment and support!
Channel getting there needs to be 100k 👊🏻
I with ya brother!
Great work. Love your videos. One question. So, it is not important to use 2K epoxy primer on bare metal to avoid moisture from the body filler to go work on the bare metal? Or is it the quality of the body filler, so that you dont need to use 2K epoxy primer? Thanks for response.
I would say if you're doing a restoration project, I would probably use epoxy primer first. In a collision setting. It takes so much longer for it to dry and for small repairs, I don't feel it's necessary on the typical everyday driver, but there is something to be said for using epoxy over bare metal And then body filler.
💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾 Fello Builder Fabricator Life 💙... Great tips and ideas
👍
Great tutorial video! Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
The UPOL Gold filler that you used, does it have a strong chemical order? Reason I ask is because I bought this one not sure if it’s the same one, it came in a pouch that looks like a large toothpaste, as soon as I started to apply it the odor was so strong it was stinging my eyes and face I had to stop and remove it. I couldn’t use it almost through it away, luckily I took it back to the shop and they gave me 50% store credit, better than it going to the garbage I suppose, anyways please let me know if this filler has a strong scent or the like, thanks!
The filler I use id upol lightweight gold. No it doesn't have that kind of smell. Smell like filler but not overpowering and it doesn't come in a pouch.amzn.to/3JP0mpI
Great tips and information. Thanks
Oh boy my bondo comes out green, ive definitely been adding too much hardener
How do I keep my filler from drying so fast before I put it on. Does less hardener = longer drying time????
Yes, but you can take it too far. A good Idea is to keep it in a cold room until your ready to mix it, especially in the summer heat.
in your opinion. which filler do you think is better/ easier to work with and sand. upol gold or evercoat rage gold
My boss has used upol gold but mostly uses Bondo
How would you compre this Upol to USC featherite??
I like upol better. Never tried the featerrite.
Nice work looks great
Thanks 👍
Good show
Glad you enjoyed it
It’s always helpful thanks
Glad to hear that! Thank for watching brother.
Great job
Thank you,appreciate the comment and support!
What’s the cost for labor vs buying a new fender
About the same whe all is said and done
How much hardener are you using ?
I'm not real specific with it. It typically depends on the temperature. 50:1 is the ratio. A good rule is not quite from the center of the puddle to the edge with hardner. If it's hot use less. Appreciate your comment!
Sorry dont use p80 on paint and put plastic on top. That will give problem specially on black paint due to. You will see scratchers later
Always great work and I believe doesn't burn customer wallet
👍
How much is that kind of repair ?
A lot of work I can see why you all get so much for body work
Can You xplain to me why You couldn't just go to the junkyard and pick up a front fender for 25 or 30 bucks, sand it down, paint it and You're done.
You haven't bought parts lately, cant buy anything for 25or 30 bucks brother. Come on man, I could have bought an aftermarket fender but then I would have to blend into adjacent panels ,prepping those panels and de trimming those panels. More cost in paint. I'd rather just fix it.
Can YOU please explain where your finding a late gen Silverado front fender for 25 bucks at a junkyard? An illegal chop shop maybe and that’s still a stretch
It is not easy spreading .i tried fifth times but each time they are coming very rough thing.
wait what was the point of the Glue pull only to hammer dolly and strip and then dent machine it and mud 😵💫
Less invasive and I get to use my glue pulling tools and demo them.😁
It seems difficult to find people who can do this kind of work well 😢
👍
I love doing this type of work. I just don't like working at body shops. I do it myself at home
@@cruzredeyes that's legit. I will probably have to figure out how to do this stuff myself at home as well. I want to do something cool on my s14.
I thought wow, crazy that you guys dont have extraction for your blocks..... then realised you do and just dont use it!
I guess we didn't use it on this one, but we definitely use it.
Insurance companies aren't going to pay for that many hours most of them are going to change the fender
Truth is, thay paid 8 hrs for this filler work! I had to fight for it because they wanted to pay 4. I just told them pay it or replace it. It was mor cost effective to pay the 8 hrs.
8 hours is really good time on a repair like that. Good that you stood up for yourself! Insurance companies have estimators that try to rob body techs!
@@CoreyHill-wb7gc yup that's why I got out of collision side and went into restoration and custom work but now I'm starting collision side again for older cars
Im into 70s cars and own 70s cars we hammer and dolly the panel never use filler in certin dents filler so thick it cracks in 2 to 4 years and paint job ruined alot insurance repairs are filler not hammer dolly and if dont want hammer panels ya weld new sections in
Little filler as possible is way too much metal work them lows out then epoxy and a few coats of primer Pryor to painting
No guide coat on the bondo?? Too soon sorry
I only use it if I need it. I have a pretty good feel for filler after doing this forever. 👍
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Wow great side affects 😂😂😂😂
🤔
you should never put body filler over bare metal... it has been proven that that applying over epoxy does not allow corriosion between the bare metal and filler....
Epoxy is the best way but not friendly for a production shop. I use it on restoration jobs tho.
Leave that to professionals
Get rid of those useless plastic speaders...
Great job
Thanks brother!