I,m 68yrs. old! Spread my 1st dent in my dad,s body shop when I was 12yrs. old and seen plenty before that one while emptying the barrels,etc. There was a product called "Bondo- Honey" he bought and the guys used it just for that reason. This was in 1968 folks. Lacquer primer and nitro-stan (red putty)! No mig welders, you brazed a new qtr. panel on the vehicle! Excellent video just the same! Jeff Dusti Shirley, Ma.
@@PaynePaintAndBodywork Are you serious? The products are so much better now I,m told. Now they glue qtr. panels (which I agree with, especially the wheel house and mig the sale panel, rocker, rear body panel! Hey, what state are you in? I,m in Communist Taxachusetts and retired! I still go to my old shop that I sold and hang out once in a while when I walk my Akita "BORIS" Jeff D.
As a auto body tec and auto body painter, I can tell you we used this same technique with the fiberglass resin to make the bondo flow better with eliminating pin holes. Really works! We did it in the 1990s in our shop!
Yes, a great idea! Been doing it myself for over 20 years. One other use for the fiberglass guys, (I have been building fiberglass parts for decades) I always hated gelcoat as it is brittle and cracks. (and not cheap) I mix 1 part fiberglass resin with 2 parts regular Bondo brand (like you) to make a "thin-ish" brush on coating. (33% resin) I even use the fiberglass hardener, instead of the Bondo hardener. It sands easier, no pinholes, and is flexible so it doesn't crack like gelcoat. Plus, it's great at hiding the fiberglass matt/cloth texture. I also use it to bond on automotive parts, great adhesion and quick finishing.
Here's another hack: NEVER mix Bondo on cardboard...it soaks up some of the resin which is the polar opposite of what you are trying to accomplish by adding more resin.
@@uncleronny6748 At this point it's just a copy/paste reply..... " what I'm going to let a mix dry on my mixing board Dooof..... the cardboard is for the video...... LOL
Correct, I am a fiberglass boat builder, bondo is a polyester body filler so you use polyester resin to thin it, the common resin for fiberglass work. I figured this out on my own when I opened a can of Bondo and it had dried out, it works and holds up over time. What you end up with is something like a glazing body filler. Styrene is a thinner for body filler and resin. It's a game changer especially good for beginners.
I kinda figured it out in the mid-70s when I first started doing bodywork. The cans had been around a while, there would be purple liquid on top of the filler. When I got into fiberglass, I noticed the resin was the same color and smell. So when I really got back into fiberglass around 1996, I figured it out and started thinning the bondo with resin.
@@guzzifabrication3448 Can you add the fiberglass resin to cement to achieve a smooth finish? Stupid question? I know. What is fiberglass resin normally used for?
I was happy to learn about this information and I can mix and store the new creamy blend until I need it later. Then just add hardener . 1 person commented the fiberglass hardener could be used in this new resin blend.. said even better results. Anything more to note on procedures for this new mix ?
@@josephmurray3583 I've never used fiberglass hardener, if you try it let me know the results. Start with 5% added resin, the main goal is to eliminate pin holes or if the filler has been on the self along time adding resin will bring it back. Too much resin and ir will become more liquid and harder to sand.
@@guzzifabrication3448 and I saw the results you had when you mixed up the new blend.. I'll skip the sanding and let it lay break out the spray and call it a day . Time for a road trip and never look back. 1/8" of your mix front to back and it will look better than the shisters who muck out hit and run paint job's every week all across America. You have helped a bunch of people who have skills make up their minds to repair their own vehicles. Thanks again and Peace to you and your family. Have a great year.
@@guzzifabrication3448 you mentioned that resin is mixed in with the Bondo without the hardener. So then, the (blue as you used) hardener is used only when preparing the Bondo for spreading/ application ? (Just wanna ensure there is no other step where hardener is used a 2nd time). Thanks for a great video!
Yes yes and yes , .... Welp what are u waiting for start sharing , may the video sharing hit, like , and subscribe button never ending no winners begin😎😂 This guy is genius...
@@guzzifabrication3448. Just remember Guzzi, 98% of haters are bitching about what they themselves can’t/don’t possess, in his case . Patience. This is an outstanding piece of advice and I much appreciate it ( and 3/4 of the other old head commenters are throwing out gold nuggets of wisdom also). I’ll be using this trick and adding fiberglass cloth to tune up a few areas on my 84 F150 4X4 long bed this spring ( before painting her light regatta blue)! Thank you again. I’ve subbed and look forward to checking out your library of vids. Stay safe Sir and keep up the great work!
I appreciate your tip. I’m actually a woodworker that uses Bondo to fill voids on surfaces that will later be painted. Your tip will save me a lot of sanding. Yep, Bondo works fine on wood - if, and only if, you’ll be painting the project.
Yep I use bondo to repair exterior woodwork where the wood has rotted. I have returned to jobs after many years and it is stable and still looks good. I usually cut out the rot and replace with wood and use the bondo to make the seams disappear but on door sills I will use it to fill rotted soft spots on the top of horizontal surfaces. The trick is to remove any and all discolored (Grey to black) wood even if it seems hard and not rotten. I will definitely use this trick to thin the bondo next time I have a job like that. Thanks , good video
I worked in furniture repair for years and I used bonds for all kinds of repairs and replacements and would have liked this for that because you always had small voids that I wou;d have to refill after sanding you can use tack nails to grab onto for the body filler and it holds perfectly well! Good tip , thanks!😊
I took your advice and 30 years (off and on) of doing body work I've NEVER enjoyed working the mud! But now, I wanted to create extra dents to fix 😂... I'm so freaking glad I learned this before death comes knocking 😅
Thank you good man. As an amateur body man and painter in 1975 I was assigned to the craze of installing fiberglass fender flares, spoilers, and scoops on vans and other wacky stuff. Most customers wanted them moulded and blended in rather than bolt- on. Bondo really stuck to metal but fiberglass did not and could not endure extreme temperature changes. The catalysts would interchange well between them. I thought I was a genius back then for putting a layer of Bondo on the bare steel and a swipe of fiberglass resin on the fiberglass after gel coat removal then joining them wet. It was easy to blend the squish-out without further fillers. I haven't done any more since the days of "Shaggin' Wagons" but now I wonder why in hell I didn't just think farther and mix them together? Now at 78yrs old I'm kicking myself for all those lost hours and profit. GREAT VIDEO !
Rondo!! Sprayway customs (another channel) has been using that forever, but I will say, he’s never really explained how much to mix. Great video man! Thanks!
Yes sir this works and I also seen Sprayway use the "Rondo" on dash repairs. One questions though, when Sprayway mixes it he mixes the resin and bondo and then adds the appropriate amount of clear resin hardener for the resin and the appropriate body fill hardener with the body filler and mixes it all together. I'm guessing the hardeners and the same and they just add color pigment to the bondo so you can tell when it's been fully mixed when it has the same color?
Here’s a tip. I’ve been doing this for years as-well sometimes when it dries it may stay a little bit tacky and gum up your sand paper so I used wax and grease remover on a shop towel i give it a quick wipe and let it evaporate it removes all the stickiness and sands perfectly!!! 👌🏼💯
I had a guy that worked for me doing body work on deisel fleet equipment. He always mixed his mud in a little room off of the paint shop and never let anyone see the process. I’ve seen what he was applying and it looked exactly like this. So now I know the secret. Thanks for sharing this.
@onlythetruth883 there is fiberglass resin already in body filler, we are just adding a small amount more to eliminate pinholes and make the filler creamy ( if it needs it ). Thanks !
Carpenter here. We use bondo to fill nail holes in pvc exterior trim. I will definitely try thinning it out next time. Good stuff, thank you from Chelmsford, MA
Yo😮 I wish I knew this trick a few years back. I had to fill holes in steel door frames 6 per door x 24 door frames. Because it was in an underground garage and it would be cold at times as this was a new build, the bondo would cure to fast or wouldn’t dry the way I would like it. I’ve done some body work before, not a pro by any means, and I’m a very handy guy but I would always fight with it even when it came to sanding. The fact that you made number 2 look like smooth glass is amazing!!! Game changer! I will always keep this information with me. Thank you brother 🤘🏻
Great job. I so enjoy your videos. They’re so well done and I have picked up so much watching your videos. I’ve been a mechanic for over 50 years but I’ve never done bodywork and you’ve been a huge help. Thank you. 👍🏻
Been doing this for years. But I'll share a trick with you. Never use cardboard to mix your filler. You can see in your video how the resin and hardner soaks into it. Use an onion board or a thick piece of glass.
For the 10,000,000th time...... for the sake of a video..... which is easier? let a mix cure on cardboard you throw away..... or let a mix cure on your mixing board that you then have to clean..... try to focus on the big picture.....
@@guzzifabrication3448 I go to local thrift store and buy several dinner plates usually cost 25 to 50 cents each, easy to use and clean if you like, or throw away when finished.
God forbid they give you a full can of dense so you can add what you want on the mixing board ! BUT THEN, they now get to sell you less so they can sell you more just to get back to what you should have had in the first place. Oh ! I believe it is called SHRINKFLATION or CROOKED AS SH-T PRACTICSES.
Wow! Been playing a bit over the years (40 yrs) with bondo and never saw this trick. It makes so much sense. I don’t hardly ever try body work, but when I have, yes this has been an issue. Next time, I will try your resin trick. Thanks again!
The video was very informative, very well explained and extremely detailed. I will definitely talk to my body repair man before he touches my vehicle to make sure that he gets this mixture done as part of my repair contract.
I just learned about this from Bad Chad. He didn’t explain the mix ratio but you did so thanks for that. You didn’t mention any hardener change but I’m experimenting with that as well. Too often I’ve had set-up issues before I’ve finished the application. If I learn a good ratio that gives me extended set-up time I’ll be a happy camper. Thanks again for your demonstration. Good information.
Thanks for the comment, this is a really old body man trick, use the same amount of hardener, start with 5% added resin and work up. Too much hardener and the mix will be harder to sand, tacky, and runny. This technique definitely has it's uses if used correctly.
I learned this method about 4 years ago when watching videos on Sprayway Customs channel when I made some A-pillar midrange and tweeter pods and some kick panel speaker pods. I was having trouble with pinholes and getting the filler shaped to where I didn't have to spend hours sanding so I started looking on youtube for help and came across Sprayway Customs channel. That guy is exactly what I was looking for because he has videos on building custom fiberglass door panels, A-pillar pods, kick panel pods, custom fiberglass dash, subwoofer boxes, and also does vehicle body work and custom paint how to videos. He also has videos on how to build the wood frames for the bigger items and how to stretch, staple, and glue fleece cloth over the frames then start covering it with fiberglass resin and chop mat then the body filler and resin mixture he calls Rondo to finish them up and he turns out amazing work. I learned so much from studying his content that I got really good at building custom fiberglass things for my truck and when people started noticing and asking where I bought my stuff from most didn't believe me when I said I made it all from scratch. After they realized it was true I started getting requests to make things for other people even after telling them that it is very labor and time intensive so it is not cheap they still wanted it done then other people saw the work I did for them and it snowballed from there. I am a Union heavy equipment operator so I don't have an overabundance of free time to start with and I have stayed busy consistently on these side jobs for the past 4 years and have made more than I could have ever imagined(don't want to give an amount in case IRS happens across this). I have also had to turn down a lot of work as well due to lack of time. I am putting all this in my comment because a lot of people get intimidated and think they can't do a good job or figure it out but you can, all you have to do is give it a try. I am not saying that there weren't some pieces during my learning phase that I didn't have to throw away and start over but every time that happened I learned what works and what doesn't. If I can make big money then anyone can make big money on these things with some practice and trial and error. I also really enjoy doing fiberglass fabrication and would do it full time if I could get health insurance and pension from doing it but it doesn't work that way so I must keep my Union job and keep the fiberglassin on the side...for now. Anyone contemplating working with fiberglass resin and body filler should just do it because you never know how it may turn out.
Thank you for the comment and encouragement, that is what this channel is all about, helping people get their hands dirty.... 90 % is just trying.... I appreciate your support !!
I did trade show/ exhibit construction for years! Used gallons & gallons of Bondo. Sure could have used this trick!!! Thanks! I'll pass it on to my son who's still in the biz!!
I caught a custom builder show couple years ago, and he mentioned that bondo and fiberglass resin worked very well together, I was wondering why. Thanks for the explanation.
What an excellent trick and tip, I am always grateful for gaining knowledge from someone else's knowledge that is proven to work. Thank you for the great tips.
Thanks for the video. They also make Bondo thinner that is similar. I use evercoat plastic Honey resin. It is made for thinning filler and works great.
I did it last summer accidently and created a perfect back fender rocker panel which I think is now water proof and rust proof. The back of my rocker panel is made of bondo only. Any metal that was in this area was removed after I formed a bondo made panel over the old area. Works like a charm so far. I plan to use bondo mixed with resin to create molds for making auto body parts in the future. Great combos.
Great, but remember there's a recommended thickness for bodyfiller, And the rule is always do you meddle or correctly and then body filler sparingly? Hey thanks for leaving the comment and for watching you are appreciated
There is a type of foam that is much better than using bondo you use bondo to finish the foam off before you prime and paint it.I used to build mold for all different cars flares whale tails spoilers but the foam is how you start then carve the foam with cheese graters and sanders.
Crazy! I’m grateful to have stumbled upon this video . I enjoy doing body work and working with bondo. I also thoroughly enjoy working with fiberglass and resin but Im self taught and for that I rather good at it but with this trick I believe will take my skill to a whole new level with out a doubt. At the moment I’m working on refurbishing a boat I picked up for basically free . Has need a lot of resin work and I’ve already done a decent amount on the hull and plenty more to come. Awesome I came across this old school trick ! Thanks for the video and thanks everyone for the comments they have also taught me a things of two as well! I appreciate it guys !
I've been in search of a product like this for years and just so happened to come across your vid today. Better late than never. Thanks so much for sharing!
As a retired Auto Body technician of 47 years I've been doing this forever. When you open a new can of mud You can see the resin floating on top that you have to mix in Thoroughly if it's been sitting very long. The only thing when doing this is it leaves a little more of a film on top to clog up your sandpaper and to overcome that which I do anyways no matter if I use it or not and it saves a lot of sandpaper is to get a razor blade and scrape it across the top. It is best to do it right after it sets up as soon as it starts to harden just enough to where you will not pull the mud off to get the glossiness off of it. That will save you a tremendous amount of sandpaper because it keeps the resin that's on the top surface from sticking to your sandpaper because the resin leave the sheen on the top. To minimize the shrinkage always let your mud cure for at least a week if you can before top coating with anything that helps a lot the longer mud is allowed to set the last chances you have of it showing back through from shrinkage after it's painted.
I used to do this It definitely helps make the filler creamy and lays down smooth, but it becomes a lot harder to sand with the higher amount of resin added
@@guzzifabrication3448I had to add it to the filler I was provided because it was cheap junk and once I would sand it, it would end up like the moon all full of craters. I added resin and it helped that problem but created a new one. But what works for the individual is up to them
Best tip video I've seen in a long time. I only started using the stuff last year for patching up things around the house, not on a car yet, but I've been struggling with the thickness of it. No matter how careful I was, it always needs tons of sanding to get smooth and then there are still air bubbles or dips. I am SOOOO gonna try this! EDIT: Wow I just saw the part 2 for this video, everyone must watch it too!
Thanks ! really old trick in the body industry, remember not too much resinb added or the mix will be more liquid and harder to sand. thanks for watching !
I have done this and I have also mixed bondo with 2 part clear epoxy resin, with and without the bondo hardener. Both seem to work pretty good. It's good for repairing rotten wood, etc.
@@duanethieme4186 You still have to mix the part A and the part B clear epoxy together as usual. The bondo hardener won't harden either the part A or part B epoxy as far as I know, at least without the bondo being in the mix. You would just need to experiment with your own materials to find what works best for you. If you are going to try to mix clear part A and B epoxy and bondo together, I would add the bondo hardener last. Then try it without the bondo hardener and see how it works for you. If I remember right, it took a few more days to fully harden without the bondo hardener in the mix.
Man it appears lots of people have been doing this same thing for years , so what rock was I under dammit!! Thanks it only took me 50 years to find out Lmao 🤣
You will find if you look at the active ingredients on most you can always come up with a workaround or an improvement. . For example frontline for dogs. One of the main ingredients in that is fipronil. You will find on some insecticides that kill ants and termites this very product in online stores that will sell to the public. Roughly looking at percentages there roughly the same on most bulk fipronil termite killers as it is in frontline. However you must determine the amount you need to apply to your pet. I told a friend of mine a farmer about this he uses it on all of his dogs and cats. Whatever brandy uses he says he gets about 400% more doing it this way saves loads of money
I've been doing bodywork since the 80's and I watched this video like a kid looking at all the presents under the Christmas tree. I was under the rock next to the one that you were under! Howdy, neighbor!
@@CHIBA280CRV Learning never stops, just the classroom changes. Sharing knowledge, this is how the interweb is supposed to work, not all that other crap!
Wow!👍A real eye opener! Thanks for sharing it, much appreciate it. I wonder though, why don't the body fillers already come that way in a can. This would save time when sanding and money! Thank you again!❤
Thanks this is just a really old time body man trick I'm just passing it on to the new generation start with 5% added resin not too much or the mix will become runny and harder to sand, thanks for the comment try it out let me know what you think
Thank you, I will definitely try it next time I'll be doing a project. And yes, 5% like you said sounds to me like a good number. Definitely don't want to over mix it and ruin body filter. Lol.👍
That is a great trick! Thanks. I just used Bondo for a stucco wall repair and it made a perfect match to the deep rough texture just by wiping with the applicator as it hardened, the exact opposite of glossy smooth you are getting. I'm going to use your trick today to fill in wood window molding and a concrete door threshold where I scraped off peeling paint bubbles to smooth it out, rather than spackle.
Thanks, it's a really old body.Man trick definitely has its uses, Remember the more resume you add the more liquid it becomes, it will also make it harder to sand. Hey let me know how you liked it !
This is why i live this channel. On a nother note. Seeing how you are so great at answering questions. I just bought a 1960 2 door sedan Bel Air. It is a factory 348 car. When I opened the trunk i found a date code correct Tri Power intake with no carbs. The car has the factory motor still in it but i am not able to read the engine pad by the heads. How can i tell if this was a factory Tri Power car. Also this car has been parked in a private junk yard for 50 plus years. The owner of the yard passed some years ago and the family knows nothing about the car. I am wanting to sell it and do not want to get taken on the price if this is truly a rare car. Thanks Adam. Keep up the great content I learn something every time you make a video. Also I have decided to replace the roof on the 63 Belair that you helped me with by answering my last question.
For the id try: jalopyjournal.com the H.A.M.B. Some very knowledgeable people on that site. They can point you in the right direction or answer the question directly. Hey, glad I can help thanks for your support. And following the channel ! glad the roof worked out
As always thanks for the direction. It's hard to find people that run business like yours that are willing to share the knowledge. They hold it like they have the answer to life. People like you help keep this hobby alive.
I have been using bondo for at least 20 years and really didn’t know how to thin in. Well I know now and will definitely use it from now on. Thanks sharing.
Thanks for the video. Going to be doing some body work soon and this is going to help. I don't understand why people have a need to put down any useful information instead of positive information. Even the downside of thinning is more useful than just saving 'stupid'. Anyways thanks for taking the time to help others, i know what's involved with putting together a video.
I already knew that stuff duh..... LoL 😂😂😂 awesome video. I was taught that years ago when you would get down to the bottom of the can it would be impossible to blend it so we would mix that in it presto..... Mo Bondo lol.... It's really just cause we didn't take the time to mix it in the first place lol but it works!!! Thanks 😊😊😊😊
I had one these cans sitting around for a while. And when i went to use it the resin in the czn had separated from the filler. So the filler was really thick snd got softer as i stirred it up. But it's exactly what's in the can is resin. So by adding more resin will make this filler more creamier for sure. Awesome video.
Now i see this. I had a trailer that was ( RUFF) to say it nicely. My wife said make it look like new. I spent weeks working on the whole project. If i knew this trick it would have saved me so much money and time. Im a smarter person now. Thank you.
I don't use body filler all that often, but the last time I opened the can, it was very thick, and when I mixed it, lots of bubbles. I would have suspected that you added acetone. Next time I'lm going to add some resin, what a difference. Thanks - Jim
I had comments of people using acetone or laquer thinner.... I wouldn't.... adding a little fiberglass resin to body filler cans that have set for awhile will work perfectly. Thanks Jim !
We did this in the early '70s working in dealership body shops. I see the cream hardener has come a long way, from pink to blue. And they added Spanish words to the front of the can. They're pretty good with that Bondo, I don't think they need any instructions. They know what the word Bondo means world wide. In TJ they don't pull dents, they fill them with newspaper and cover them with chicken wire and on goes the Bondo.
Can you use the resin with bondo reinforced with metal? Need to fill in some dents on an rv aluminum door frame. My understanding is that you need to use the reinforced version on aluminum. Thanks for the video, very helpful and well explained. Used to be very difficult to find tips like this as a diy’er. So really appreciate it.
Great question, I have no experience bondo reinforced with metal, I have used a product called " All Metal " from UMC maybe google that and see if that product is suitable with your project. Thanks
Im rebuilding a 62 Merc Comet. This will save me alot of time. I actually hated using bondo and would use fiberglass instead. This method will help me smooth out the ripples in the 60 year old metal... So if i watched this carefully... Its a 1 part resin. 2 parts bondo. Do i then use the resin herdner or bondo hardner ? And in small batches.
I would start with adding 5% to 10% resin - not a 2 to 1 ratio that would be way too much.... the main goal is to eliminate pinholes and make the filler creamy and easy to spread, if too much resin is added the mix will be harder to sand and very runny. Use filler hardener not fiberglass hardener.
That is a very good idea since polyester resins cure best when they are in an anaerobic environment. I have often mixed a tiny amount of liquid paste wax in the final resin layer of fiberglass projects. The wax will float to the surface sealing the resin.
Man. I'm so glad this video came up in my YT feed. I've been using bondo for over 30 years and could never figure out how the pro restorers got it on cars so smoothly and evenly. I was convinced they had some special high-end formula withheld from the general public. This is a real gem. I appreciate you sharing it. Merry Christmas! (New subscriber ;) )
@@jimk4267 If you would have paid attention at the beginning of the video..... I said it's for beginners working on their projects at home..... I'll make it easier for you that means Non- Professionals..... who will recognize Bondo brand more readily than any other brand of filler.... LOL. Get with the program jimmy....
A Few Years Back , I WATCHED One Of The Custom Car Builders POUR OUT His One Gallon Of Bondo Onto The Car He was Building ; I Have Been LOOKING For THE ANSWER ALL THESE YEARS ! NOW I KNOW HOW HE DID IT !! THANK YOU FOR THIS !!
I've watched countless (China) bondo videos and after watching them I would ponder "Are they using a different bondo and where can i get that?" THIS VIDEO EXPLAINS how professionals get results...I can't wait to start my next "bondo" project.💯
As soon as I started watching this video i knew that you were going to use either fiberglass Resin or icing . Both are old tricks that we have used for or 20 years. And it works great. And this was a great Idea to show DIYers how to do it. Because I've see people do their own body work and then bring it for paint then wonder why it looked like crap. And they need to stop using that spot puddy .
Thank you. Yeah, this was intended for those new guys. Are the guys doing first time projects in the garage? To give him a helping hand not my trick. Been around for a really long time, just passing it on brother.
Ahh the nitro-stan, Brother when I got into this business in the 90s. The Body Shop ( collision )normal was finished out in 80 coat nitro stand before you go home and ship to paint.... talk about sucking up in about 3-4 after paint..... That's why I moved into frame/ structural repair and metal fabrication. I wasn't gonna do that to people...
@@guzzifabrication3448 I used bondo to help create the right hand side of a Kenworth trucks fenders. Used it to make templates then squeezed the shape and filled in-between. We did not use bondo brand though.
Great info. I've been struggling with the stuff. We have very extreme temperature changes here. You have to be careful about how much hardener is in the stuff too because too much seems to make it crack with the seasons.
Great tip! I've heard of people adding resin to kitty hair filler (Bad Chad for one), but not to regular bondo. Glad I have subscribed, learned something from both videos you have had since I subscribed. Thanks!!
Thanks for the sub! Yeah adding little extra resin to the fiberglass Reinforced filler works great too, It's all about learning I learn new stuff every day.
Fantastic tip! As a DIY;er I've struggled with glazing putty to fill in many imperfections regardless of the thickness of the initial coat. I'll be using your technique within the hour. Thank you!
Dude, that is awesome! I have used this stuff for years and never knew about this! I can think of many times where this would have been the ticket to a lot less work!!! I am not a pro or work in a body shop, but I do my own stuff, really appreciate this!!! NEW SUB!!
Hey, thank you for the comment. It's an old time body man trick. Just remember start with 5%. work your way up, too much resin and it will become harder to sand and more liquid. Thanks for the sub !
Love this trick and looking forward to trying it! I imagine this sands just as well as filler straight out of the can? This parallels what I do with premix drywall mud. Add the right dash of water to your premix and it will be silky smooth and spread and blend way way better.
Thanks for sharing this. I'm not a professional just a hobby Mechanic. I've been battling Bondo for many years. I only wish I'd known this sooner. Would have saved a lot of sanding and headaches.
Try it out, start with 5%, the main goal is to eliminate pin holes too much resin and it will be harder to sand. This is an old bodyman trick, just passing it on.
Dude I still have my hutchins from the 90s still going strong ! Best air tools you could buy back then. I had no money. They were pretty pricey but worth it. I was just able to get it off the tool truck
That was so helpful. I am not a Body Man but have used “Bondo” in the past. That trick is pretty amazing. Thanks. By the way all the comments were great to. Hahahahaha
That trick has been around along time, just turning the new crowd on to it, if used correctly it can really help. Thanks for the comment and the support.
Don't know if this is cheaper than buying "better" filler. But looks like it's a definite upgrade. Always hated the pinholes and having to re apply. Thanks!
This is an old time trick way before ever coat z grip and rage and all the other high in body fillers. And it's aimed at more towards the guy's just new to body work. They're probably going to be buying the less expensive body fillers trying to help them out. Thanks for watching
I was born into a body shop family and I have always just used bondo it is fine for my needs sometimes someone will leave the lid off of a can and it will dry out I just add a little Honey fiberglass resin to it and it is good to go@@guzzifabrication3448
What you have to watch out from this stuff is it will shrink over time and if you don't let it sit and shrink for a few weeks and then you start painting the primer on and blocking and getting the finish where it feels good and dont let the primer dry and shrink you will have flaws that will show up in your paint finish . A good friend of mine has been doing body work for years and was a teacher at the university of Eau Claire WI as a body shop teacher and he said the Bondo brand body fillers and spot putty is junk because it shrinks like crazy compared to the better 3M brands and others . Right now we are doing a 67 Mercury Cougar that we turned into a fast back and he said that even the good body fillers after being cut down and sanded should sit for a couple weeks preferably outside in the sun or in warmer temps so the mud can shrink up and then add another layer of mud until the panel feels good and then shoots the epoxy primer on and let's that shrink and eventually uses this black charcoal like stuff that he wipes on in circular motion that is like a guide coat that will show the high and low spots that show up during the blocking process . Once it's cut down where he wants it perfect he then shoots the primer sealer on it and lets that shrink for a couple weeks then everything gets wet sanded down and dried and prepped for paint and the paint is then left to sit and harden for a couple weeks before a wet sand and buff then the clear coat goes on and that sits and shrink to be wet sanded and buffed . Obviously this technique can't be used in a modern body shop where cars need to be done quickly for the customer but for show cars this technique works flawless and the outcome is beautiful straight as a arrow body work by him . We just finished a 69 Plymouth Road Runner and he's already won some trophies with it over 3 other Road runners that were at the same car shows . I remember using this stuff back in the late 70s and it would shrink and even when using the spot putty they made then it would shrink and crack after painting a car and you could see this along with any sanding scratches that showed up because the spot putty was basically made of clay and would shrink on the used cars we were fixing for car stealerships lol mainly a certain Ford dealership in the twin cities that wanted them done as cheap as possible and didn't want us welding up any rust holes or patch panels so we used cardboard and tape and news paper for filler to lay the mud over and I felt so bad that they were outright ripping off the customers buying supposedly good used cars from them but that's what they wanted and paid us to do . Maybe this product has gotten better but with most things now the EPA has changed the ingredients used in paints and body fillers to make them safer to use which killed the quality of the product that it's actually worse now and cheap compared to years ago but maybe with what you added to the mud added some strength and it doesn't shrink like it used to but I wouldn't use this for a custom car or show car or some kind of concourse restoration on something that's rare and worth a lot of money when done because it could come back to bite you and once word gets out to others that this happened by you you then have created a bad reputation and people will stop using you for body work . I got out of body work years ago because I got sick of all the sanding and blocking and went to do the mechanical side of things working at speed shops in the twin cities for years until I retired and now help my buddy at his shop working on cars we are building to sell for profit be it muscle cars or rat rods or old cars in general to stay busy so I do most of the engine builds and drive train suspension stuff while he does the body stuff .
@@peteloomis8456 All body filler, all catalyized materials experience shrinkage, the trick is to do metal work correctly and use a minimum of filler, that's the difference between a high end craftsman shop and a body shop.... before primer all filler should cure for 2 days then after primer and blocking 20 to 30 days before painting..... that's if you want to avoid any shrinkage issues. It's not just that the filler will shrink.... the primer, the base coat, the clear will also shrink..... by the way you are aware 3M makes ''Bondo'' brand body filler, right ?
Great tip. Thanks I'm working on my passenger rear fender that got bonked on a 4 way stop. So it's crumpled pretty good. Fast fwd. I'm now filling it and the pinholes and streaks are relentlessly nasty. A lot of elbow grease sanding it down is such a prick in the hole, not to mention the sheets and sheets of sandpaper. I'll try your tip and i'm sure my car and my elbow will finally see the light of day.
Ive been doing this for 20yrs, its how I build one off panels and custom speaker enclosures, the resin is great because its tackyness and abilty to bond to cloth materials and fiberglass. I like to use fleece, cheapest off the shelf stuff from the hobby store. Coat the fleece saturate it well both sides if possible with JUST RESIN, use a 1/4 amount of the MEKP that would be required. Than coat it with your full strength body filler resin mix. Its amazing for the inside of a sub and speaker enclosures, it deadens and seals. You can make it soupy enough that you can just pour it in and move the box around to coat it, mix that a little hotter for faster and better results. Pouring it on over the fleece is great! Minimal sanding and flattens very well. Two very important things! Room, resin, filler and material temp ideally would be 70° it WILL NOT WORK IN A 50° garage. Also, mixing it or getting it to set with to much catalyst will creat pinholes under the smooth layer. MIX IT REALLLLY WELL! The one other ingredient he is missing here or for his purpose will create the same results for LESS MONEY, dont need the resin is Liquid Honey or commonly known as body filler thiner. Fun stuff thanks for the video man! 😁
Wow this is an amazing tip, thanks. Filler was always frustrating to work with because of the pinholes, plus this would be less to sand and stronger because of the resin.
Never put on top of paint or primer you can put on sanded fiberglass and ground steel. Some guys like to put it on top of epoxy primer then finish from there. @@rpkietur
This looks identical to upol dolphin glaze. Brilliant bit of gear, and now I don’t have to buy it! How have I not heard of this before, I’ll never know 😂
I’ve been adding resin or honey to my filler for 30 years. It stays sticky for a long time though and will clog your paper. I won’t use it on first fill but will use it as a final skim when you want no pin holes and such. Do it at the end of the day and sand in the morning. The real key to filler is not to use bondo brand.
@@guzzifabrication3448 out of all the fillers bondo brand is the worst though. No professional shop uses it. You get what you pay for and with better fillers you don’t need to add resin to. That’s why I say for best results and ease of sanding, don’t use Bondo brand. The only people using Bondo brand are people that don’t know any better and are in their garage. Resin does keep it stickier longer and when fully cured is harder to sand because it’s denser. I only use it if my can of filler is drying out and needs to be thinned or I’m out of glazing putty and need a creamy filler that leaves no pin holes. Trust me on what I’m saying, I’ve been in the trade for over 30 years and I have done $50k paint jobs and restored hundreds of show cars. Then add 15 years at a high volume collision shop where I have fixed and painted approximately 20k cars, I know what I’m talking about. I have used or tried a 100 different brands of fillers and spread 100s of gallons of it.
@@JohnDoe-ud2cc IT'S NOT ABOUT BONDO BRAND people totally miss the point of the video !!! I looked your channel up, I don't see any work.... so your going to tell me how to do this ? look at my channel 184 videos showing my my skill and experience... did you want to match skill sets? no you don't...... When you post some work come back and talk to me. By the way 3m makes bondo brand, ever heard of them ?
@@guzzifabrication3448 I’m not a electronics millennial person, I don’t do videos, I’m to busy working. My experience surpasses yours 10 fold. I don’t have time in my life or the need to video everything I do. I don’t need that nor do I care. I’m obviously not the same generation as you. The fact that you use bondo brand shows us all your level of experience and you loose all credibility in your argument, because no professional uses that crap. If you used good products you wouldn’t need the resin is what saying in the first place before you got all butt hurt. Keep on buying your Bondo from O’Reillys and working in your garage.
@JohnDoe-ud2cc Like I said... put up or shut up.... All I hear is a arm chair Warrior telling me what they can do... I started in 1984 I own my own business for over 10 years I got 30 plus years in Every aspect of this business professiomolly, over 20 certification from I car, pPG AWS , 3 magazine articles, etc, etc. On display in the reception area wall, I'm calling your a** out.Let's see what you got spud
I figured that one on my own over 20 years ago after someone at work showed me bondo honey, when I saw the thing and since I worked with polyester resin prior, it seemed familiar and when I read the list of ingredients it became obvious and cheaper. I can't do body filler anymore due to an allergy I developped, I believe because of the styrene.
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I,m 68yrs. old! Spread my 1st dent in my dad,s body shop when I was 12yrs. old and seen plenty before that one while emptying the barrels,etc. There was a product called "Bondo- Honey" he bought and the guys used it just for that reason. This was in 1968 folks. Lacquer primer and nitro-stan (red putty)! No mig welders, you brazed a new qtr. panel on the vehicle! Excellent video just the same! Jeff Dusti Shirley, Ma.
Thanks !! just passing on this old time bodyman trick to a new generation. Thanks for the comment !
They still make the bondo honey..
@@PaynePaintAndBodywork Are you serious? The products are so much better now I,m told. Now they glue qtr. panels (which I agree with, especially the wheel house and mig the sale panel, rocker, rear body panel! Hey, what state are you in? I,m in Communist Taxachusetts and retired! I still go to my old shop that I sold and hang out once in a while when I walk my Akita "BORIS" Jeff D.
@@PaynePaintAndBodywork Yes they do, Evercoat plastik honey, I can buy a gallon of resin for what 1 qt of plastik honey costs...
@@colleenmcnamaradusti4861 Communist. What a drama queen.
As a auto body tec and auto body painter, I can tell you we used this same technique with the fiberglass resin to make the bondo flow better with eliminating pin holes. Really works! We did it in the 1990s in our shop!
Passing on that old bodyman trick to the new guys, thanks for the comment !
Yes, a great idea! Been doing it myself for over 20 years. One other use for the fiberglass guys, (I have been building fiberglass parts for decades) I always hated gelcoat as it is brittle and cracks. (and not cheap) I mix 1 part fiberglass resin with 2 parts regular Bondo brand (like you) to make a "thin-ish" brush on coating. (33% resin) I even use the fiberglass hardener, instead of the Bondo hardener. It sands easier, no pinholes, and is flexible so it doesn't crack like gelcoat. Plus, it's great at hiding the fiberglass matt/cloth texture. I also use it to bond on automotive parts, great adhesion and quick finishing.
Thanks for the comment !
Same here been doin it for years.
Nice trick... thanks
Here's another hack: NEVER mix Bondo on cardboard...it soaks up some of the resin which is the polar opposite of what you are trying to accomplish by adding more resin.
@@uncleronny6748 At this point it's just a copy/paste reply..... " what I'm going to let a mix dry on my mixing board Dooof..... the cardboard is for the video...... LOL
Correct, I am a fiberglass boat builder, bondo is a polyester body filler so you use polyester resin to thin it, the common resin for fiberglass work. I figured this out on my own when I opened a can of Bondo and it had dried out, it works and holds up over time. What you end up with is something like a glazing body filler. Styrene is a thinner for body filler and resin. It's a game changer especially good for beginners.
Thank you for the comment ! for all the new people working filler
Thank you for your reply , much appreciated 🇦🇺
👍@@alank616
Could you do this method and use on plastic?
I kinda figured it out in the mid-70s when I first started doing bodywork. The cans had been around a while, there would be purple liquid on top of the filler. When I got into fiberglass, I noticed the resin was the same color and smell. So when I really got back into fiberglass around 1996, I figured it out and started thinning the bondo with resin.
I'm 452 years old, been doing body work for 379 years now, and I've never seen a better trick than this! Keep it up!
Ha ha, just passing on a really old time body man trick, I'm not as old as you.... but I learn every day !
@@guzzifabrication3448
Can you add the fiberglass resin to cement to achieve a smooth finish?
Stupid question? I know.
What is fiberglass resin normally used for?
@@onlythetruth883 Not a stupid question, I have no idea on that one
@@onlythetruth883 Not stupid, but an easy question. Fiberglass resin is normally used for doing fiberglass work. Working with fiberglass matting.
@@UberLummox
Was hoping there was something for cement that would help to get a smooth shiny finish without having to work it so hard. Thanks.
I've worked with Bondo many times over the years, and I NEVER knew this. Outstanding tip. Thanks so much!
Passing on what an oldtimer showed me, now it's your turn to pass it on. Merry Christmas !
I was happy to learn about this information and I can mix and store the new creamy blend until I need it later. Then just add hardener . 1 person commented the fiberglass hardener could be used in this new resin blend.. said even better results. Anything more to note on procedures for this new mix ?
@@josephmurray3583 I've never used fiberglass hardener, if you try it let me know the results. Start with 5% added resin, the main goal is to eliminate pin holes or if the filler has been on the self along time adding resin will bring it back. Too much resin and ir will become more liquid and harder to sand.
@@guzzifabrication3448 and I saw the results you had when you mixed up the new blend.. I'll skip the sanding and let it lay break out the spray and call it a day . Time for a road trip and never look back. 1/8" of your mix front to back and it will look better than the shisters who muck out hit and run paint job's every week all across America. You have helped a bunch of people who have skills make up their minds to repair their own vehicles. Thanks again and Peace to you and your family. Have a great year.
@@josephmurray3583 That's awesome..... Thank you !
Straight forward instructions, just great. Other TH-camrs should learn from this guy
Thank you Sir ! Best wishes in the new year !
@@guzzifabrication3448 you mentioned that resin is mixed in with the Bondo without the hardener. So then, the (blue as you used) hardener is used only when preparing the Bondo for spreading/ application ? (Just wanna ensure there is no other step where hardener is used a 2nd time).
Thanks for a great video!
@@SS-pi2yi Great question, only add hardener when mixing body filler to catalyze before use, it is fine to add resin to the body filler and store.
Yes yes and yes , .... Welp what are u waiting for start sharing , may the video sharing hit, like , and subscribe button never ending no winners begin😎😂
This guy is genius...
I paint 2-4 cars a year for side work. This will make a world of difference for me. Thanks for taking the time to share
That's awesome ! I'm passing on what was shown to me, start w/10-15% too much and it makes the mix more liquid and harder to sand.
he could of just got to the point in like a 30 sec or short video ...fuckin 8 min to say something that could be said in 3 sec
@@ronmit-p5g OR I could have not made the video and given you an old time bodyman trick for free..... you act like I wronged you
@@guzzifabrication3448Pay no attention to the guy behind the curtain. 😅
@@guzzifabrication3448. Just remember Guzzi, 98% of haters are bitching about what they themselves can’t/don’t possess, in his case . Patience.
This is an outstanding piece of advice and I much appreciate it ( and 3/4 of the other old head commenters are throwing out gold nuggets of wisdom also).
I’ll be using this trick and adding fiberglass cloth to tune up a few areas on my 84 F150 4X4 long bed this spring ( before painting her light regatta blue)!
Thank you again. I’ve subbed and look forward to checking out your library of vids. Stay safe Sir and keep up the great work!
I appreciate your tip. I’m actually a woodworker that uses Bondo to fill voids on surfaces that will later be painted. Your tip will save me a lot of sanding. Yep, Bondo works fine on wood - if, and only if, you’ll be painting the project.
Awesome ! Happy New Year !
Minwax makes a wood filler that is just tan bondo with white hardener. Once I realized what it was, I just started using regular bondo.
@@samadamms3432 Thanks for the info ! I didn't realise body filler was used so much in woodworking, I've had alot of comments on that.
Yep I use bondo to repair exterior woodwork where the wood has rotted. I have returned to jobs after many years and it is stable and still looks good. I usually cut out the rot and replace with wood and use the bondo to make the seams disappear but on door sills I will use it to fill rotted soft spots on the top of horizontal surfaces. The trick is to remove any and all discolored (Grey to black) wood even if it seems hard and not rotten.
I will definitely use this trick to thin the bondo next time I have a job like that. Thanks , good video
I worked in furniture repair for years and I used bonds for all kinds of repairs and replacements and would have liked this for that because you always had small voids that I wou;d have to refill after sanding you can use tack nails to grab onto for the body filler and it holds perfectly well! Good tip , thanks!😊
I took your advice and 30 years (off and on) of doing body work I've NEVER enjoyed working the mud! But now, I wanted to create extra dents to fix 😂... I'm so freaking glad I learned this before death comes knocking 😅
😆
Kind of a bucket list thing, ain't it !
Thank you good man. As an amateur body man and painter in 1975 I was assigned to the craze of installing fiberglass fender flares, spoilers, and scoops on vans and other wacky stuff. Most customers wanted them moulded and blended in rather than bolt- on. Bondo really stuck to metal but fiberglass did not and could not endure extreme temperature changes. The catalysts would interchange well between them. I thought I was a genius back then for putting a layer of Bondo on the bare steel and a swipe of fiberglass resin on the fiberglass after gel coat removal then joining them wet. It was easy to blend the squish-out without further fillers. I haven't done any more since the days of "Shaggin' Wagons" but now I wonder why in hell I didn't just think farther and mix them together? Now at 78yrs old I'm kicking myself for all those lost hours and profit. GREAT VIDEO !
Thank you Sir ! I'm just passing on a really old bodyman trick to the new guys and gals
Rondo!! Sprayway customs (another channel) has been using that forever, but I will say, he’s never really explained how much to mix. Great video man! Thanks!
Glad to share, yeah, that's a really old time trick.
Definitely don't want to put too much resin or it will reduce it way too much and be runny.
Yes sir this works and I also seen Sprayway use the "Rondo" on dash repairs. One questions though, when Sprayway mixes it he mixes the resin and bondo and then adds the appropriate amount of clear resin hardener for the resin and the appropriate body fill hardener with the body filler and mixes it all together. I'm guessing the hardeners and the same and they just add color pigment to the bondo so you can tell when it's been fully mixed when it has the same color?
Exactly. He been using rondo forever. Got me using it years ago. Good video tho.
Here’s a tip. I’ve been doing this for years as-well sometimes when it dries it may stay a little bit tacky and gum up your sand paper so I used wax and grease remover on a shop towel i give it a quick wipe and let it evaporate it removes all the stickiness and sands perfectly!!! 👌🏼💯
Thanks for the info 👍
Would alcohol work just fine?
@@HecCBlanKakaVinZon Great question , but I've never tried that one.
what is a wax and grease remover?
@@macclark5188 google it.
Been doing that for years. Works great. If you heat up your bondo that thins it too. Just use less hardener
Hey thanks for watching and thanks for the comment
Your hardener should always be weighed out. Course I never did. But consistency in your batches is key.
I had a guy that worked for me doing body work on deisel fleet equipment. He always mixed his mud in a little room off of the paint shop and never let anyone see the process. I’ve seen what he was applying and it looked exactly like this. So now I know the secret. Thanks for sharing this.
Really old bodyman trick, well if he wouldn't pass it on I will !
@@guzzifabrication3448
I am surprised that they don't already have a product that includes this. Seems you might just be giving them ideas.
@onlythetruth883 there is fiberglass resin already in body filler, we are just adding a small amount more to eliminate pinholes and make the filler creamy ( if it needs it ). Thanks !
@@guzzifabrication3448👍🏻
I'm not an auto body guy, but I do use Bondo for woodworking projects that will be painted. This is a great tip that I will definitely use, thanks!
Awesome !
yep same here, professional cabinet and millwork, new construction finisher.
Great information, even in this thread!
Carpenter here. We use bondo to fill nail holes in pvc exterior trim. I will definitely try thinning it out next time. Good stuff, thank you from Chelmsford, MA
You're absolutely right I've been doing this since 1983 and it works amazingly!
YesSir ! This is for all of the new guys, it's less expensive than adding Evercoat Plastik Honey
Yo😮 I wish I knew this trick a few years back. I had to fill holes in steel door frames 6 per door x 24 door frames. Because it was in an underground garage and it would be cold at times as this was a new build, the bondo would cure to fast or wouldn’t dry the way I would like it. I’ve done some body work before, not a pro by any means, and I’m a very handy guy but I would always fight with it even when it came to sanding. The fact that you made number 2 look like smooth glass is amazing!!! Game changer!
I will always keep this information with me. Thank you brother 🤘🏻
Thanks ! remember if you add too much resin, it will be harder to sand
@@guzzifabrication3448 good to know! Thank you 🤙🏻
@@joemed6222 👍
Great job. I so enjoy your videos. They’re so well done and I have picked up so much watching your videos. I’ve been a mechanic for over 50 years but I’ve never done bodywork and you’ve been a huge help. Thank you. 👍🏻
That makes me feel good ! I'm glad I could pass on techniques that you can use ! Thanks !!
Excellent video. Thank you. I have a 30 year old Buick I'm gonna work on soon and this just made my life so much easier. Awesome.
Thanks, remember start 10-15%, if you want an even easier time working body filler watch the new video. Merry Christmas
Been doing this for years. But I'll share a trick with you. Never use cardboard to mix your filler. You can see in your video how the resin and hardner soaks into it. Use an onion board or a thick piece of glass.
For the 10,000,000th time...... for the sake of a video..... which is easier? let a mix cure on cardboard you throw away..... or let a mix cure on your mixing board that you then have to clean..... try to focus on the big picture.....
Plastic laminate squares cut from scrap!
@@guzzifabrication3448 I go to local thrift store and buy several dinner plates usually cost 25 to 50 cents each, easy to use and clean if you like, or throw away when finished.
@@matthewshannon6946dummy!
Awesome! Wish I had known this 50 years ago, but it's never to late to make a change. Love it.
This is a really old tried and true body man trick, try it out and let me know
0p poo😊@@guzzifabrication3448
hi the early years i used bondo on a few of my cars this is a game changer i wish i knew back then i know now thanks
Hey, thanks.This is a really old body man trick that I'm just passing on.Thanks for the comment !
3M bought Bondo a while back, would be like them to sell you a half empty can with bare minimum of resin. Good tip.
I know, right.......
God forbid they give you a full can of dense so you can add what you want on the mixing board !
BUT THEN, they now get to sell you less so they can sell you more just to get back to what you should have had
in the first place.
Oh ! I believe it is called SHRINKFLATION or CROOKED AS SH-T PRACTICSES.
A lot of products are being reduced in size.. but the consumers continue to buy.
Wow! Been playing a bit over the years (40 yrs) with bondo and never saw this trick. It makes so much sense. I don’t hardly ever try body work, but when I have, yes this has been an issue. Next time, I will try your resin trick. Thanks again!
Awesome ! main aim is eliminate pinholes, start with 10% resin added. It will help
Evercote makes a really good glazing putty to fill in pinholes it is white and sands really nice and smoothly this is for professional quality work
@@ericjkent I use advantage glaze a lot less expensive, easy sanding, evercoat makes good products also
The video was very informative, very well explained and extremely detailed. I will definitely talk to my body repair man before he touches my vehicle to make sure that he gets this mixture done as part of my repair contract.
Thank you Sir ! all the best in the new year !
Honestly if you told me how I was to mix filler on your car , I would tell you to do it yourself.
I hope that guy has the smarts to tell you as well.
I just learned about this from Bad Chad. He didn’t explain the mix ratio but you did so thanks for that. You didn’t mention any hardener change but I’m experimenting with that as well. Too often I’ve had set-up issues before I’ve finished the application. If I learn a good ratio that gives me extended set-up time I’ll be a happy camper. Thanks again for your demonstration. Good information.
Thanks for the comment, this is a really old body man trick, use the same amount of hardener, start with 5% added resin and work up. Too much hardener and the mix will be harder to sand, tacky, and runny. This technique definitely has it's uses if used correctly.
Wow some of you have been doing this for years but for me just learning this will make body work alot easier from now on thanks for the video
This method if used correctly is very useful ! yes it's been around along time, just as effective Then as now ! Thanks for the comment !
I learned this method about 4 years ago when watching videos on Sprayway Customs channel when I made some A-pillar midrange and tweeter pods and some kick panel speaker pods. I was having trouble with pinholes and getting the filler shaped to where I didn't have to spend hours sanding so I started looking on youtube for help and came across Sprayway Customs channel. That guy is exactly what I was looking for because he has videos on building custom fiberglass door panels, A-pillar pods, kick panel pods, custom fiberglass dash, subwoofer boxes, and also does vehicle body work and custom paint how to videos. He also has videos on how to build the wood frames for the bigger items and how to stretch, staple, and glue fleece cloth over the frames then start covering it with fiberglass resin and chop mat then the body filler and resin mixture he calls Rondo to finish them up and he turns out amazing work.
I learned so much from studying his content that I got really good at building custom fiberglass things for my truck and when people started noticing and asking where I bought my stuff from most didn't believe me when I said I made it all from scratch. After they realized it was true I started getting requests to make things for other people even after telling them that it is very labor and time intensive so it is not cheap they still wanted it done then other people saw the work I did for them and it snowballed from there. I am a Union heavy equipment operator so I don't have an overabundance of free time to start with and I have stayed busy consistently on these side jobs for the past 4 years and have made more than I could have ever imagined(don't want to give an amount in case IRS happens across this). I have also had to turn down a lot of work as well due to lack of time. I am putting all this in my comment because a lot of people get intimidated and think they can't do a good job or figure it out but you can, all you have to do is give it a try. I am not saying that there weren't some pieces during my learning phase that I didn't have to throw away and start over but every time that happened I learned what works and what doesn't. If I can make big money then anyone can make big money on these things with some practice and trial and error. I also really enjoy doing fiberglass fabrication and would do it full time if I could get health insurance and pension from doing it but it doesn't work that way so I must keep my Union job and keep the fiberglassin on the side...for now. Anyone contemplating working with fiberglass resin and body filler should just do it because you never know how it may turn out.
Thank you for the comment and encouragement, that is what this channel is all about, helping people get their hands dirty.... 90 % is just trying.... I appreciate your support !!
- Haha... I don't even do ANY autobody repairs and I can see that this added resin application works AMAZING!
Hey that's awesome thank you!
I did trade show/ exhibit construction for years! Used gallons & gallons of Bondo. Sure could have used this trick!!! Thanks! I'll pass it on to my son who's still in the biz!!
I tried to tell you years ago... ha ha, yeah this is a really old body man trick just passing it on.
That is a great result. When I have used body filler, it has done my head in with the rough rinish and air pockets. Great upload young man!
pin holes can be a real problem... this adresses that, glad to share
Been there done that and it is a game changer and zero problems. As you stated horizontal vs vertical surfaces need different ratios.
Thanks for the comment ! much appreciated !
Makes sense, you don't want it running down the side of your project, and maybe you find yourself sanding off giant teardrops!
I'm a car.
Penter, I've been using bondo for 30 years.This will Save me a lot of time and extra codes.Thank you
I caught a custom builder show couple years ago, and he mentioned that bondo and fiberglass resin worked very well together, I was wondering why. Thanks for the explanation.
We used to get Kitty Hair which was chopped fiberglass and bondo mived together for nasty butcher bondo work
What an excellent trick and tip, I am always grateful for gaining knowledge from someone else's knowledge that is proven to work. Thank you for the great tips.
This is a really old bodyman trick, as long as used correctly, hugh plus. Thanks for supporting the channel !
Thanks for the video. They also make Bondo thinner that is similar. I use evercoat plastic Honey resin. It is made for thinning filler and works great.
Hey thanks for the input thanks for watching
That's what I thought he was going to add.
👍@@Troy_Built
I did it last summer accidently and created a perfect back fender rocker panel which I think is now water proof and rust proof. The back of my rocker panel is made of bondo only. Any metal that was in this area was removed after I formed a bondo made panel over the old area. Works like a charm so far. I plan to use bondo mixed with resin to create molds for making auto body parts in the future. Great combos.
Great, but remember there's a recommended thickness for bodyfiller, And the rule is always do you meddle or correctly and then body filler sparingly?
Hey thanks for leaving the comment and for watching you are appreciated
There is a type of foam that is much better than using bondo you use bondo to finish the foam off before you prime and paint it.I used to build mold for all different cars flares whale tails spoilers but the foam is how you start then carve the foam with cheese graters and sanders.
What is the foam called ?
@@nicholaslazares5530 foam?
@@nicholaslazares5530probably surfboard foam
This is a top ten tips on YT, i am doing a boat project with a boat from 1959 and a Sea-doo from 2005, very much fiberglass work on this!
It's a really old time trick, just passing it on
Crazy! I’m grateful to have stumbled upon this video . I enjoy doing body work and working with bondo. I also thoroughly enjoy working with fiberglass and resin but Im self taught and for that I rather good at it but with this trick I believe will take my skill to a whole new level with out a doubt. At the moment I’m working on refurbishing a boat I picked up for basically free . Has need a lot of resin work and I’ve already done a decent amount on the hull and plenty more to come. Awesome I came across this old school trick ! Thanks for the video and thanks everyone for the comments they have also taught me a things of two as well! I appreciate it guys !
Thanks !
I've been in search of a product like this for years and just so happened to come across your vid today. Better late than never. Thanks so much for sharing!
👍
As a retired Auto Body technician of 47 years I've been doing this forever. When you open a new can of mud You can see the resin floating on top that you have to mix in Thoroughly if it's been sitting very long. The only thing when doing this is it leaves a little more of a film on top to clog up your sandpaper and to overcome that which I do anyways no matter if I use it or not and it saves a lot of sandpaper is to get a razor blade and scrape it across the top. It is best to do it right after it sets up as soon as it starts to harden just enough to where you will not pull the mud off to get the glossiness off of it. That will save you a tremendous amount of sandpaper because it keeps the resin that's on the top surface from sticking to your sandpaper because the resin leave the sheen on the top. To minimize the shrinkage always let your mud cure for at least a week if you can before top coating with anything that helps a lot the longer mud is allowed to set the last chances you have of it showing back through from shrinkage after it's painted.
Awesome ! thanks for the input
I used to do this
It definitely helps make the filler creamy and lays down smooth, but it becomes a lot harder to sand with the higher amount of resin added
My main goal is elimimating pinholes, add 10 to 20% more than that and yeah it makes sanding harder. Thanks for the comment
@@guzzifabrication3448I had to add it to the filler I was provided because it was cheap junk and once I would sand it, it would end up like the moon all full of craters. I added resin and it helped that problem but created a new one. But what works for the individual is up to them
Plus sanding with a machine, just go down a grit to start?
@@garychandler4296 Start with a cheese grater, that's the next video. Thanks for all of the comments
Agreed, it does make it harder to sand.
I've wondered if mixing in some polyester spray filler might be the go.
Best tip video I've seen in a long time. I only started using the stuff last year for patching up things around the house, not on a car yet, but I've been struggling with the thickness of it. No matter how careful I was, it always needs tons of sanding to get smooth and then there are still air bubbles or dips. I am SOOOO gonna try this!
EDIT: Wow I just saw the part 2 for this video, everyone must watch it too!
Thanks ! really old trick in the body industry, remember not too much resinb added or the mix will be more liquid and harder to sand. thanks for watching !
I have done this and I have also mixed bondo with 2 part clear epoxy resin, with and without the bondo hardener. Both seem to work pretty good. It's good for repairing rotten wood, etc.
I haven't tried w/o hardener, I'll have to check that one out. Thanks for the comment and watching !
Does it harden without the hardner? Does cream hardner work with epoxy resin?
@@duanethieme4186 You still have to mix the part A and the part B clear epoxy together as usual. The bondo hardener won't harden either the part A or part B epoxy as far as I know, at least without the bondo being in the mix.
You would just need to experiment with your own materials to find what works best for you. If you are going to try to mix clear part A and B epoxy and bondo together, I would add the bondo hardener last. Then try it without the bondo hardener and see how it works for you. If I remember right, it took a few more days to fully harden without the bondo hardener in the mix.
@@NTSRFR4 Thank you for the information!
2 part marine penetrating epoxy add DMSO for dry rot. Wood hardner on steroids.
Man it appears lots of people have been doing this same thing for years , so what rock was I under dammit!! Thanks it only took me 50 years to find out Lmao 🤣
It's an old time trick, hey you know know ! thanks for commenting !
You will find if you look at the active ingredients on most you can always come up with a workaround or an improvement. . For example frontline for dogs. One of the main ingredients in that is fipronil. You will find on some insecticides that kill ants and termites this very product in online stores that will sell to the public. Roughly looking at percentages there roughly the same on most bulk fipronil termite killers as it is in frontline. However you must determine the amount you need to apply to your pet. I told a friend of mine a farmer about this he uses it on all of his dogs and cats. Whatever brandy uses he says he gets about 400% more doing it this way saves loads of money
I've been doing bodywork since the 80's and I watched this video like a kid looking at all the presents under the Christmas tree. I was under the rock next to the one that you were under! Howdy, neighbor!
I just crawled out from same rock?
@@CHIBA280CRV
Learning never stops, just the classroom changes.
Sharing knowledge, this is how the interweb is supposed to work, not all that other crap!
Big Tip for us DIY folks. TY!
Just passing on an oldtime trick, hope it helps
Wow!👍A real eye opener! Thanks for sharing it, much appreciate it. I wonder though, why don't the body fillers already come that way in a can. This would save time when sanding and money! Thank you again!❤
Thanks this is just a really old time body man trick I'm just passing it on to the new generation start with 5% added resin not too much or the mix will become runny and harder to sand, thanks for the comment try it out let me know what you think
Thank you, I will definitely try it next time I'll be doing a project. And yes, 5% like you said sounds to me like a good number. Definitely don't want to over mix it and ruin body filter. Lol.👍
That is a great trick! Thanks. I just used Bondo for a stucco wall repair and it made a perfect match to the deep rough texture just by wiping with the applicator as it hardened, the exact opposite of glossy smooth you are getting. I'm going to use your trick today to fill in wood window molding and a concrete door threshold where I scraped off peeling paint bubbles to smooth it out, rather than spackle.
Thanks, it's a really old body.Man trick definitely has its uses, Remember the more resume you add the more liquid it becomes, it will also make it harder to sand. Hey let me know how you liked it !
This is why i live this channel. On a nother note. Seeing how you are so great at answering questions. I just bought a 1960 2 door sedan Bel Air. It is a factory 348 car. When I opened the trunk i found a date code correct Tri Power intake with no carbs. The car has the factory motor still in it but i am not able to read the engine pad by the heads. How can i tell if this was a factory Tri Power car. Also this car has been parked in a private junk yard for 50 plus years. The owner of the yard passed some years ago and the family knows nothing about the car. I am wanting to sell it and do not want to get taken on the price if this is truly a rare car. Thanks Adam. Keep up the great content I learn something every time you make a video. Also I have decided to replace the roof on the 63 Belair that you helped me with by answering my last question.
For the id try: jalopyjournal.com the H.A.M.B. Some very knowledgeable people on that site. They can point you in the right direction or answer the question directly. Hey, glad I can help thanks for your support. And following the channel ! glad the roof worked out
As always thanks for the direction. It's hard to find people that run business like yours that are willing to share the knowledge. They hold it like they have the answer to life. People like you help keep this hobby alive.
@@jessicaandadamlawson4979 Karma....
Glad I come across this video! Many thanks!
It's a really old bodyman trick.Just passing it on if it's used correctly.It has a lot of benefits.
Thanks for the comment !
Super helpful. I'm no pro at all, so every tip is appreciated!
You are exactly the person I made the video for ! Start 10% - 15% resin added it will elininate pinholes and make the filler easier to work with
@guzzifabrication3448 I will definitely try this and update you after the holidays. Thanks again!
Oh My GOD ! Im doing a 74 El Camino now.Perfect timing! Thank You So Much! 🏆 🏅 💪🏽
@geedee94134 Thanks! Start w/5% added resin, not too much.
I have been using bondo for at least 20 years and really didn’t know how to thin in. Well I know now and will definitely use it from now on. Thanks sharing.
Glad to pass it on, really old bodyman trick, remember not too much added resin
Thanks for the video. Going to be doing some body work soon and this is going to help. I don't understand why people have a need to put down any useful information instead of positive information. Even the downside of thinning is more useful than just saving 'stupid'. Anyways thanks for taking the time to help others, i know what's involved with putting together a video.
That's awesome ! thank you, hope the trick helps
Thanks, I'll use this to soften the last bit in the large cans 👍.
Thanks ! I wish I would have mentioned that in the video.
I already knew that stuff duh..... LoL 😂😂😂 awesome video. I was taught that years ago when you would get down to the bottom of the can it would be impossible to blend it so we would mix that in it presto..... Mo Bondo lol.... It's really just cause we didn't take the time to mix it in the first place lol but it works!!! Thanks 😊😊😊😊
Thanks, yeah this is for all the guys on their first time project Or they don't have a lot of experience with filler
I had one these cans sitting around for a while. And when i went to use it the resin in the czn had separated from the filler. So the filler was really thick snd got softer as i stirred it up. But it's exactly what's in the can is resin. So by adding more resin will make this filler more creamier for sure. Awesome video.
@@sleepe361 thanks for the comment !! yeah this is a really old time bodyman trick he'll definitely bring back old filler 2 life
Now i see this. I had a trailer that was ( RUFF) to say it nicely. My wife said make it look like new. I spent weeks working on the whole project. If i knew this trick it would have saved me so much money and time. Im a smarter person now. Thank you.
Thank you Sir !! this is a really old body man trick and you have it for next time !
Great tip. I thought I heard it all. Who knew. I’m such a beginner. Thanks.
Glad to share, I learn new stuff everyday !
I don't use body filler all that often, but the last time I opened the can, it was very thick, and when I mixed it, lots of bubbles. I would have suspected that you added acetone. Next time I'lm going to add some resin, what a difference. Thanks - Jim
I had comments of people using acetone or laquer thinner.... I wouldn't.... adding a little fiberglass resin to body filler cans that have set for awhile will work perfectly. Thanks Jim !
Acetone will ruin it@@guzzifabrication3448
We did this in the early '70s working in dealership body shops. I see the cream hardener has come a long way, from pink to blue. And they added Spanish words to the front of the can. They're pretty good with that Bondo, I don't think they need any instructions. They know what the word Bondo means world wide. In TJ they don't pull dents, they fill them with newspaper and cover them with chicken wire and on goes the Bondo.
👍
Can you use the resin with bondo reinforced with metal? Need to fill in some dents on an rv aluminum door frame. My understanding is that you need to use the reinforced version on aluminum.
Thanks for the video, very helpful and well explained. Used to be very difficult to find tips like this as a diy’er. So really appreciate it.
Great question, I have no experience bondo reinforced with metal, I have used a product called
" All Metal " from UMC maybe google that and see if that product is suitable with your project. Thanks
Im rebuilding a 62 Merc Comet. This will save me alot of time. I actually hated using bondo and would use fiberglass instead.
This method will help me smooth out the ripples in the 60 year old metal...
So if i watched this carefully...
Its a 1 part resin. 2 parts bondo.
Do i then use the resin herdner or bondo hardner ?
And in small batches.
I would start with adding 5% to 10% resin - not a 2 to 1 ratio that would be way too much.... the main goal is to eliminate pinholes and make the filler creamy and easy to spread, if too much resin is added the mix will be harder to sand and very runny. Use filler hardener not fiberglass hardener.
After filling and before it hardens you can place wax paper over it to future smooth it out. Once it sets up, the wax paper will easily peel off.
Thanks for watching and the comment !
That is a very good idea since polyester resins cure best when they are in an anaerobic environment. I have often mixed a tiny amount of liquid paste wax in the final resin layer of fiberglass projects. The wax will float to the surface sealing the resin.
@chrisallen2005 Thanks ! Wow, I just learned something new. I'll have to try that next time I do some fiberglass work. Thank you for the tip !
Man. I'm so glad this video came up in my YT feed. I've been using bondo for over 30 years and could never figure out how the pro restorers got it on cars so smoothly and evenly. I was convinced they had some special high-end formula withheld from the general public. This is a real gem. I appreciate you sharing it. Merry Christmas! (New subscriber ;) )
Thanks @BobSmith-vq3uo ! just passing on what an oldtimer showed me. Merry Christmas to you and family. Hope it helps
Pros do use high-end fillers. Not Bondo brand. There is a difference
@@jimk4267 If you would have paid attention at the beginning of the video..... I said it's for beginners working on their projects at home..... I'll make it easier for you that means Non- Professionals..... who will recognize Bondo brand more readily than any other brand of filler.... LOL. Get with the program jimmy....
@@SOLDOZER is that your moms name?
@@SOLDOZER isn't triplewhopper your mom's name?
Dang i wish I had heard this trick 40 years ago..Thanks! Great video!
Better late than never.
Hey thanks for watching and leaving a comment much appreciated
Same here. I'm 70 and retired now, but it is still nice to know.
@@bobrocco4218 your not retired... your just refocusing what you want to do in life. Cheers !
A Few Years Back , I WATCHED One Of The Custom Car Builders POUR OUT His
One Gallon Of Bondo Onto The Car He was Building ; I Have Been LOOKING For
THE ANSWER ALL THESE YEARS ! NOW I KNOW HOW HE DID IT !!
THANK YOU FOR THIS !!
Thank you for watching and commenting !
I've watched countless (China) bondo videos and after watching them I would ponder "Are they using a different bondo and where can i get that?" THIS VIDEO EXPLAINS how professionals get results...I can't wait to start my next "bondo" project.💯
Thank you Sir ! remember not too much resin or the mix will be harder to sand and runny
Nice tip. I’m going to use that. I know it’ll make the job easier.
Thank you.
That's awesome ! definitely will reduce pinholes
As soon as I started watching this video i knew that you were going to use either fiberglass Resin or icing . Both are old tricks that we have used for or 20 years. And it works great. And this was a great Idea to show DIYers how to do it. Because I've see people do their own body work and then bring it for paint then wonder why it looked like crap. And they need to stop using that spot puddy .
Thank you. Yeah, this was intended for those new guys. Are the guys doing first time projects in the garage? To give him a helping hand not my trick. Been around for a really long time, just passing it on brother.
Yeah I'm an old guy now and did glass work for ages. That's what bondo is! Resin and talc mixed!!
Ahh the nitro-stan, Brother when I got into this business in the 90s. The Body Shop ( collision )normal was finished out in 80 coat nitro stand before you go home and ship to paint.... talk about sucking up in about 3-4 after paint..... That's why I moved into frame/ structural repair and metal fabrication. I wasn't gonna do that to people...
Yes that red spot putty is junk i would never ever use that shit
@@ericjkent Agreed nitro stand is one hundred percent bad....
Great video. I've been doing that for a few years now. It works really nice that way
Awesome ! Thanks for watching
As a wood patternmaker we used a lot of bondo for blends and fillets.
Fifty years ago I was mixing polyester resin in the bondo for some applications.
Yep, I never realized how much woodworkers use bodyfiller until I made this video. Thanks for the comment !
@@guzzifabrication3448 I used bondo to help create the right hand side of a Kenworth trucks fenders. Used it to make templates then squeezed the shape and filled in-between.
We did not use bondo brand though.
Great info. I've been struggling with the stuff. We have very extreme temperature changes here. You have to be careful about how much hardener is in the stuff too because too much seems to make it crack with the seasons.
If used correctly, this can really help, thanks for the comment !
I think “sprayway custom” uses same/similar applications…real cool stuff bro! That would have saved a lot of aggravation way back when…👍
👍
That's where I got it. He calls it Rondo I believe
That's where I got it. He calls it Rondo I believe
Great tip! I've heard of people adding resin to kitty hair filler (Bad Chad for one), but not to regular bondo. Glad I have subscribed, learned something from both videos you have had since I subscribed. Thanks!!
Thanks for the sub! Yeah adding little extra resin to the fiberglass Reinforced filler works great too, It's all about learning I learn new stuff every day.
Wow. I never heard or thought about the fiberglass filler. Would be a great help with that.
@@derrickwebb7230 Yes Sir ! try it out
Just use matt fiberglass and resin lots cheaper, then use the Bondo and resin he describes as a glazing Bondo top coat.
Thank you for the tip that is awesome i have been using rage ultralight the price is triple the price i am definitely going to try this thanks again.
For certain types of metal on newer vehicles I would use Rage but on older vehicles, way to expensive. Glad to share !
Fantastic tip! As a DIY;er I've struggled with glazing putty to fill in many imperfections regardless of the thickness of the initial coat. I'll be using your technique within the hour. Thank you!
@MrJoebiz24 This a really old bodyman trick, start w/5% added resin. Thanks !
Thank you for sharing this video. I will be putting what I just learned to good use with a lot less work
Really old bodyman trick, if used correctly it really makes things easier
Dude, that is awesome! I have used this stuff for years and never knew about this! I can think of many times where this would have been the ticket to a lot less work!!! I am not a pro or work in a body shop, but I do my own stuff, really appreciate this!!! NEW SUB!!
Hey, thank you for the comment. It's an old time body man trick. Just remember start with 5%. work your way up, too much resin and it will become harder to sand and more liquid. Thanks for the sub !
Love this trick and looking forward to trying it! I imagine this sands just as well as filler straight out of the can?
This parallels what I do with premix drywall mud. Add the right dash of water to your premix and it will be silky smooth and spread and blend way way better.
Give it a try I know you'll like it let me know your results
Awesome tip! And a small amount strongly thinned for self leveling? Genius!
It's a really old bodyman trick, just passing it on to you. Remember too much resin and the mix will be harder to sand.
Does it get harder with the addition of the thinner? Does it shorten the working time?
@@coreyquante2616 I would say yes as its harder to sand
Thanks for sharing this. I'm not a professional just a hobby Mechanic. I've been battling Bondo for many years. I only wish I'd known this sooner. Would have saved a lot of sanding and headaches.
Try it out, start with 5%, the main goal is to eliminate pin holes too much resin and it will be harder to sand. This is an old bodyman trick, just passing it on.
I started doing this back in the early 80s. Every now and then I pick up my Hutchens Hustler and thank God I don't have to use it anymore!
Dude I still have my hutchins from the 90s still going strong ! Best air tools you could buy back then. I had no money. They were pretty pricey but worth it. I was just able to get it off the tool truck
5:40 Answer - Fiberglass resin and proper amount. Start with 10% mix thoroughly; test; possibly add more; usually not more than 20%.
Great video thanks! I have both bondo and resin and hated how thick and lumpy the bondo was when I used it.
This will help, start conservative with the resin. Thanks for the input !
Thanks for the tip! Wish I'd have known this years ago!
An old time trick, just passing it on, now it's yours !
@@guzzifabrication3448 thanks much!
Robert!!! Just tried this. You just made me a superstar. Thanks again.
Very good !!! I'm glad it helped, it's a really old body man trick that still has applications today !
That was so helpful. I am not a Body Man but have used
“Bondo” in the past. That trick is pretty amazing. Thanks. By the way all the comments were great to. Hahahahaha
That trick has been around along time, just turning the new crowd on to it, if used correctly it can really help. Thanks for the comment and the support.
Don't know if this is cheaper than buying "better" filler. But looks like it's a definite upgrade. Always hated the pinholes and having to re apply. Thanks!
This is an old time trick way before ever coat z grip and rage and all the other high in body fillers.
And it's aimed at more towards the guy's just new to body work. They're probably going to be buying the less expensive body fillers trying to help them out. Thanks for watching
I was born into a body shop family and I have always just used bondo it is fine for my needs sometimes someone will leave the lid off of a can and it will dry out I just add a little Honey fiberglass resin to it and it is good to go@@guzzifabrication3448
What you have to watch out from this stuff is it will shrink over time and if you don't let it sit and shrink for a few weeks and then you start painting the primer on and blocking and getting the finish where it feels good and dont let the primer dry and shrink you will have flaws that will show up in your paint finish . A good friend of mine has been doing body work for years and was a teacher at the university of Eau Claire WI as a body shop teacher and he said the Bondo brand body fillers and spot putty is junk because it shrinks like crazy compared to the better 3M brands and others . Right now we are doing a 67 Mercury Cougar that we turned into a fast back and he said that even the good body fillers after being cut down and sanded should sit for a couple weeks preferably outside in the sun or in warmer temps so the mud can shrink up and then add another layer of mud until the panel feels good and then shoots the epoxy primer on and let's that shrink and eventually uses this black charcoal like stuff that he wipes on in circular motion that is like a guide coat that will show the high and low spots that show up during the blocking process . Once it's cut down where he wants it perfect he then shoots the primer sealer on it and lets that shrink for a couple weeks then everything gets wet sanded down and dried and prepped for paint and the paint is then left to sit and harden for a couple weeks before a wet sand and buff then the clear coat goes on and that sits and shrink to be wet sanded and buffed . Obviously this technique can't be used in a modern body shop where cars need to be done quickly for the customer but for show cars this technique works flawless and the outcome is beautiful straight as a arrow body work by him . We just finished a 69 Plymouth Road Runner and he's already won some trophies with it over 3 other Road runners that were at the same car shows . I remember using this stuff back in the late 70s and it would shrink and even when using the spot putty they made then it would shrink and crack after painting a car and you could see this along with any sanding scratches that showed up because the spot putty was basically made of clay and would shrink on the used cars we were fixing for car stealerships lol mainly a certain Ford dealership in the twin cities that wanted them done as cheap as possible and didn't want us welding up any rust holes or patch panels so we used cardboard and tape and news paper for filler to lay the mud over and I felt so bad that they were outright ripping off the customers buying supposedly good used cars from them but that's what they wanted and paid us to do . Maybe this product has gotten better but with most things now the EPA has changed the ingredients used in paints and body fillers to make them safer to use which killed the quality of the product that it's actually worse now and cheap compared to years ago but maybe with what you added to the mud added some strength and it doesn't shrink like it used to but I wouldn't use this for a custom car or show car or some kind of concourse restoration on something that's rare and worth a lot of money when done because it could come back to bite you and once word gets out to others that this happened by you you then have created a bad reputation and people will stop using you for body work . I got out of body work years ago because I got sick of all the sanding and blocking and went to do the mechanical side of things working at speed shops in the twin cities for years until I retired and now help my buddy at his shop working on cars we are building to sell for profit be it muscle cars or rat rods or old cars in general to stay busy so I do most of the engine builds and drive train suspension stuff while he does the body stuff .
@@peteloomis8456 All body filler, all catalyized materials experience shrinkage, the trick is to do metal work correctly and use a minimum of filler, that's the difference between a high end craftsman shop and a body shop.... before primer all filler should cure for 2 days then after primer and blocking 20 to 30 days before painting..... that's if you want to avoid any shrinkage issues. It's not just that the filler will shrink.... the primer, the base coat, the clear will also shrink..... by the way you are aware 3M makes ''Bondo'' brand body filler, right ?
In my old shop there was an aqua can from Evercoat called Honey we would add to Z Grip body filler and it worked great.
I've seen that it works great, the fiber glass resin is a little less expensive. Thanks for watching
Wow, I've never heard that before. Awesome video as always 👍
Glad to share ! Please like and share, thanks for watching
Great tip. Thanks
I'm working on my passenger rear fender that got bonked on a 4 way stop. So it's crumpled pretty good. Fast fwd. I'm now filling it and the pinholes and streaks are relentlessly nasty. A lot of elbow grease sanding it down is such a prick in the hole, not to mention the sheets and sheets of sandpaper. I'll try your tip and i'm sure my car and my elbow will finally see the light of day.
Start with 5% - 10% added resin, too much and the mix will be tacky, hard to sand, and runny. Good luck on your project, it will turn out great !
Ive been doing this for 20yrs, its how I build one off panels and custom speaker enclosures, the resin is great because its tackyness and abilty to bond to cloth materials and fiberglass. I like to use fleece, cheapest off the shelf stuff from the hobby store. Coat the fleece saturate it well both sides if possible with JUST RESIN, use a 1/4 amount of the MEKP that would be required. Than coat it with your full strength body filler resin mix. Its amazing for the inside of a sub and speaker enclosures, it deadens and seals. You can make it soupy enough that you can just pour it in and move the box around to coat it, mix that a little hotter for faster and better results. Pouring it on over the fleece is great! Minimal sanding and flattens very well. Two very important things! Room, resin, filler and material temp ideally would be 70° it WILL NOT WORK IN A 50° garage. Also, mixing it or getting it to set with to much catalyst will creat pinholes under the smooth layer. MIX IT REALLLLY WELL! The one other ingredient he is missing here or for his purpose will create the same results for LESS MONEY, dont need the resin is Liquid Honey or commonly known as body filler thiner. Fun stuff thanks for the video man! 😁
Thanks !! really appreciate the info !!
Wow this is an amazing tip, thanks. Filler was always frustrating to work with because of the pinholes, plus this would be less to sand and stronger because of the resin.
Thanks for watching just passing on something I learned. Maybe make your life easier. Hey remember to like and share
nNot stronger, the same all good
@@walkertongdee 👍
You should mix body filler on a non porus surface, cardboard absorb the resin making it thicker
If it wasn't just a sample for a youtube video.... I would.....
that is how i was taught also. people spread it over paint now too. i just dont.
Never put on top of paint or primer you can put on sanded fiberglass and ground steel. Some guys like to put it on top of epoxy primer then finish from there. @@rpkietur
This looks identical to upol dolphin glaze. Brilliant bit of gear, and now I don’t have to buy it! How have I not heard of this before, I’ll never know 😂
👍
Did this at the stereo shop I worked at in the late 90's. We used to call it Rondo.
Nice ! Works well with wood.
I’ve been adding resin or honey to my filler for 30 years. It stays sticky for a long time though and will clog your paper. I won’t use it on first fill but will use it as a final skim when you want no pin holes and such. Do it at the end of the day and sand in the morning. The real key to filler is not to use bondo brand.
If the mix stays sticky your adding too much resin, Bondo brand isn't the aim of the video... this works with any polyester filler.
@@guzzifabrication3448 out of all the fillers bondo brand is the worst though. No professional shop uses it. You get what you pay for and with better fillers you don’t need to add resin to. That’s why I say for best results and ease of sanding, don’t use Bondo brand. The only people using Bondo brand are people that don’t know any better and are in their garage. Resin does keep it stickier longer and when fully cured is harder to sand because it’s denser. I only use it if my can of filler is drying out and needs to be thinned or I’m out of glazing putty and need a creamy filler that leaves no pin holes. Trust me on what I’m saying, I’ve been in the trade for over 30 years and I have done $50k paint jobs and restored hundreds of show cars. Then add 15 years at a high volume collision shop where I have fixed and painted approximately 20k cars, I know what I’m talking about. I have used or tried a 100 different brands of fillers and spread 100s of gallons of it.
@@JohnDoe-ud2cc IT'S NOT ABOUT BONDO BRAND people totally miss the point of the video !!!
I looked your channel up, I don't see any work.... so your going to tell me how to do this ? look at my channel 184 videos showing my my skill and experience... did you want to match skill sets? no you don't...... When you post some work come back and talk to me. By the way 3m makes bondo brand, ever heard of them ?
@@guzzifabrication3448 I’m not a electronics millennial person, I don’t do videos, I’m to busy working. My experience surpasses yours 10 fold. I don’t have time in my life or the need to video everything I do. I don’t need that nor do I care. I’m obviously not the same generation as you. The fact that you use bondo brand shows us all your level of experience and you loose all credibility in your argument, because no professional uses that crap. If you used good products you wouldn’t need the resin is what saying in the first place before you got all butt hurt. Keep on buying your Bondo from O’Reillys and working in your garage.
@JohnDoe-ud2cc Like I said... put up or shut up.... All I hear is a arm chair Warrior telling me what they can do... I started in 1984 I own my own business for over 10 years I got 30 plus years in Every aspect of this business professiomolly, over 20 certification from I car, pPG AWS , 3 magazine articles, etc, etc. On display in the reception area wall, I'm calling your a** out.Let's see what you got spud
I figured that one on my own over 20 years ago after someone at work showed me bondo honey, when I saw the thing and since I worked with polyester resin prior, it seemed familiar and when I read the list of ingredients it became obvious and cheaper.
I can't do body filler anymore due to an allergy I developped, I believe because of the styrene.
Sorry to hear about the allergy, this is a trick someone showed me a long time ago and I wanted to pass it on to new guys. Thanks for the comment !
You have an allergy to the resin, not the styrene.