The Bondo trick you don't know... Faster, Easier, Improved Quality ! DIY Auto Restoration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ธ.ค. 2023
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Contact us at : guzzifabrication@yahoo.com
Our Address is: Guzzi Fabrication
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Honesty - Quality - Craftsmanship - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I,m 68yrs. old! Spread my 1st dent in my dad,s body shop when I was 12yrs. old and seen plenty before that one while emptying the barrels,etc. There was a product called "Bondo- Honey" he bought and the guys used it just for that reason. This was in 1968 folks. Lacquer primer and nitro-stan (red putty)! No mig welders, you brazed a new qtr. panel on the vehicle! Excellent video just the same! Jeff Dusti Shirley, Ma.
Thanks !! just passing on this old time bodyman trick to a new generation. Thanks for the comment !
As a auto body tec and auto body painter, I can tell you we used this same technique with the fiberglass resin to make the bondo flow better with eliminating pin holes. Really works! We did it in the 1990s in our shop!
Passing on that old bodyman trick to the new guys, thanks for the comment !
I took your advice and 30 years (off and on) of doing body work I've NEVER enjoyed working the mud! But now, I wanted to create extra dents to fix 😂... I'm so freaking glad I learned this before death comes knocking 😅
😆
Man it appears lots of people have been doing this same thing for years , so what rock was I under dammit!! Thanks it only took me 50 years to find out Lmao 🤣
It's an old time trick, hey you know know ! thanks for commenting !
You will find if you look at the active ingredients on most you can always come up with a workaround or an improvement. . For example frontline for dogs. One of the main ingredients in that is fipronil. You will find on some insecticides that kill ants and termites this very product in online stores that will sell to the public. Roughly looking at percentages there roughly the same on most bulk fipronil termite killers as it is in frontline. However you must determine the amount you need to apply to your pet. I told a friend of mine a farmer about this he uses it on all of his dogs and cats. Whatever brandy uses he says he gets about 400% more doing it this way saves loads of money
Yes, a great idea! Been doing it myself for over 20 years. One other use for the fiberglass guys, (I have been building fiberglass parts for decades) I always hated gelcoat as it is brittle and cracks. (and not cheap) I mix 1 part fiberglass resin with 2 parts regular Bondo brand (like you) to make a "thin-ish" brush on coating. (33% resin) I even use the fiberglass hardener, instead of the Bondo hardener. It sands easier, no pinholes, and is flexible so it doesn't crack like gelcoat. Plus, it's great at hiding the fiberglass matt/cloth texture. I also use it to bond on automotive parts, great adhesion and quick finishing.
Thanks for the comment !
Same here been doin it for years.
Nice trick... thanks
Here's another hack: NEVER mix Bondo on cardboard...it soaks up some of the resin which is the polar opposite of what you are trying to accomplish by adding more resin.
@@uncleronny6748 At this point it's just a copy/paste reply..... " what I'm going to let a mix dry on my mixing board Dooof..... the cardboard is for the video...... LOL
Correct, I am a fiberglass boat builder, bondo is a polyester body filler so you use polyester resin to thin it, the common resin for fiberglass work. I figured this out on my own when I opened a can of Bondo and it had dried out, it works and holds up over time. What you end up with is something like a glazing body filler. Styrene is a thinner for body filler and resin. It's a game changer especially good for beginners.
Thank you for the comment ! for all the new people working filler
Thank you for your reply , much appreciated 🇦🇺
👍@@alank616
Could you do this method and use on plastic?
I kinda figured it out in the mid-70s when I first started doing bodywork. The cans had been around a while, there would be purple liquid on top of the filler. When I got into fiberglass, I noticed the resin was the same color and smell. So when I really got back into fiberglass around 1996, I figured it out and started thinning the bondo with resin.
Here’s a tip. I’ve been doing this for years as-well sometimes when it dries it may stay a little bit tacky and gum up your sand paper so I used wax and grease remover on a shop towel i give it a quick wipe and let it evaporate it removes all the stickiness and sands perfectly!!! 👌🏼💯
Thanks for the info 👍
I've worked with Bondo many times over the years, and I NEVER knew this. Outstanding tip. Thanks so much!
Passing on what an oldtimer showed me, now it's your turn to pass it on. Merry Christmas !
I was happy to learn about this information and I can mix and store the new creamy blend until I need it later. Then just add hardener . 1 person commented the fiberglass hardener could be used in this new resin blend.. said even better results. Anything more to note on procedures for this new mix ?
@@josephmurray3583 I've never used fiberglass hardener, if you try it let me know the results. Start with 5% added resin, the main goal is to eliminate pin holes or if the filler has been on the self along time adding resin will bring it back. Too much resin and ir will become more liquid and harder to sand.
@@guzzifabrication3448 and I saw the results you had when you mixed up the new blend.. I'll skip the sanding and let it lay break out the spray and call it a day . Time for a road trip and never look back. 1/8" of your mix front to back and it will look better than the shisters who muck out hit and run paint job's every week all across America. You have helped a bunch of people who have skills make up their minds to repair their own vehicles. Thanks again and Peace to you and your family. Have a great year.
@@josephmurray3583 That's awesome..... Thank you !
I'm not an auto body guy, but I do use Bondo for woodworking projects that will be painted. This is a great tip that I will definitely use, thanks!
Awesome !
yep same here, professional cabinet and millwork, new construction finisher.
Great information, even in this thread!
I paint 2-4 cars a year for side work. This will make a world of difference for me. Thanks for taking the time to share
That's awesome ! I'm passing on what was shown to me, start w/10-15% too much and it makes the mix more liquid and harder to sand.
he could of just got to the point in like a 30 sec or short video ...fuckin 8 min to say something that could be said in 3 sec
@@user-fc1zs1wh9g OR I could have not made the video and given you an old time bodyman trick for free..... you act like I wronged you
@@guzzifabrication3448Pay no attention to the guy behind the curtain. 😅
@@guzzifabrication3448. Just remember Guzzi, 98% of haters are bitching about what they themselves can’t/don’t possess, in his case . Patience.
This is an outstanding piece of advice and I much appreciate it ( and 3/4 of the other old head commenters are throwing out gold nuggets of wisdom also).
I’ll be using this trick and adding fiberglass cloth to tune up a few areas on my 84 F150 4X4 long bed this spring ( before painting her light regatta blue)!
Thank you again. I’ve subbed and look forward to checking out your library of vids. Stay safe Sir and keep up the great work!
Straight forward instructions, just great. Other TH-camrs should learn from this guy
Thank you Sir ! Best wishes in the new year !
@@guzzifabrication3448 you mentioned that resin is mixed in with the Bondo without the hardener. So then, the (blue as you used) hardener is used only when preparing the Bondo for spreading/ application ? (Just wanna ensure there is no other step where hardener is used a 2nd time).
Thanks for a great video!
@@SS-pi2yi Great question, only add hardener when mixing body filler to catalyze before use, it is fine to add resin to the body filler and store.
Yes yes and yes , .... Welp what are u waiting for start sharing , may the video sharing hit, like , and subscribe button never ending no winners begin😎😂
This guy is genius...
I'm a car.
Penter, I've been using bondo for 30 years.This will Save me a lot of time and extra codes.Thank you
You know. This is actually genius. I was asking the guy at the paint store what makes the expensive bondo so much smoother and easier to spread than the cheaper stuff and he said. “Idk I guess they just use more resin” and I dint really know what he meant but this must be it. I tried this today and it works perfect. My first batch I made slightly to thin but after that I got it spot on. So much easier to work. Appreciate this. You gained a sub.
That's awesome thank you !
Rondo!! Sprayway customs (another channel) has been using that forever, but I will say, he’s never really explained how much to mix. Great video man! Thanks!
Glad to share, yeah, that's a really old time trick.
Definitely don't want to put too much resin or it will reduce it way too much and be runny.
Yes sir this works and I also seen Sprayway use the "Rondo" on dash repairs. One questions though, when Sprayway mixes it he mixes the resin and bondo and then adds the appropriate amount of clear resin hardener for the resin and the appropriate body fill hardener with the body filler and mixes it all together. I'm guessing the hardeners and the same and they just add color pigment to the bondo so you can tell when it's been fully mixed when it has the same color?
Exactly. He been using rondo forever. Got me using it years ago. Good video tho.
I appreciate your tip. I’m actually a woodworker that uses Bondo to fill voids on surfaces that will later be painted. Your tip will save me a lot of sanding. Yep, Bondo works fine on wood - if, and only if, you’ll be painting the project.
Awesome ! Happy New Year !
Minwax makes a wood filler that is just tan bondo with white hardener. Once I realized what it was, I just started using regular bondo.
@@samadamms3432 Thanks for the info ! I didn't realise body filler was used so much in woodworking, I've had alot of comments on that.
❤ if you don't learn something everyday, you're not trying . I went to school on that. Ty
Yes Sir ! thanks for the comment !
- Haha... I don't even do ANY autobody repairs and I can see that this added resin application works AMAZING!
Hey that's awesome thank you!
Big Tip for us DIY folks. TY!
Just passing on an oldtime trick, hope it helps
I've been in search of a product like this for years and just so happened to come across your vid today. Better late than never. Thanks so much for sharing!
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I caught a custom builder show couple years ago, and he mentioned that bondo and fiberglass resin worked very well together, I was wondering why. Thanks for the explanation.
We used to get Kitty Hair which was chopped fiberglass and bondo mived together for nasty butcher bondo work
You're absolutely right I've been doing this since 1983 and it works amazingly!
YesSir ! This is for all of the new guys, it's less expensive than adding Evercoat Plastik Honey
What an excellent trick and tip, I am always grateful for gaining knowledge from someone else's knowledge that is proven to work. Thank you for the great tips.
This is a really old bodyman trick, as long as used correctly, hugh plus. Thanks for supporting the channel !
Yo😮 I wish I knew this trick a few years back. I had to fill holes in steel door frames 6 per door x 24 door frames. Because it was in an underground garage and it would be cold at times as this was a new build, the bondo would cure to fast or wouldn’t dry the way I would like it. I’ve done some body work before, not a pro by any means, and I’m a very handy guy but I would always fight with it even when it came to sanding. The fact that you made number 2 look like smooth glass is amazing!!! Game changer!
I will always keep this information with me. Thank you brother 🤘🏻
Thanks ! remember if you add too much resin, it will be harder to sand
@@guzzifabrication3448 good to know! Thank you 🤙🏻
@@joemed6222 👍
Great job. I so enjoy your videos. They’re so well done and I have picked up so much watching your videos. I’ve been a mechanic for over 50 years but I’ve never done bodywork and you’ve been a huge help. Thank you. 👍🏻
That makes me feel good ! I'm glad I could pass on techniques that you can use ! Thanks !!
The video was very informative, very well explained and extremely detailed. I will definitely talk to my body repair man before he touches my vehicle to make sure that he gets this mixture done as part of my repair contract.
Thank you Sir ! all the best in the new year !
Been doing that for years. Works great. If you heat up your bondo that thins it too. Just use less hardener
Hey thanks for watching and thanks for the comment
Your hardener should always be weighed out. Course I never did. But consistency in your batches is key.
Excellent video. Thank you. I have a 30 year old Buick I'm gonna work on soon and this just made my life so much easier. Awesome.
Thanks, remember start 10-15%, if you want an even easier time working body filler watch the new video. Merry Christmas
You should mix body filler on a non porus surface, cardboard absorb the resin making it thicker
If it wasn't just a sample for a youtube video.... I would.....
that is how i was taught also. people spread it over paint now too. i just dont.
Never put on top of paint or primer you can put on sanded fiberglass and ground steel. Some guys like to put it on top of epoxy primer then finish from there. @@rpkietur
I think “sprayway custom” uses same/similar applications…real cool stuff bro! That would have saved a lot of aggravation way back when…👍
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Been there done that and it is a game changer and zero problems. As you stated horizontal vs vertical surfaces need different ratios.
Thanks for the comment ! much appreciated !
Makes sense, you don't want it running down the side of your project, and maybe you find yourself sanding off giant teardrops!
Crazy! I’m grateful to have stumbled upon this video . I enjoy doing body work and working with bondo. I also thoroughly enjoy working with fiberglass and resin but Im self taught and for that I rather good at it but with this trick I believe will take my skill to a whole new level with out a doubt. At the moment I’m working on refurbishing a boat I picked up for basically free . Has need a lot of resin work and I’ve already done a decent amount on the hull and plenty more to come. Awesome I came across this old school trick ! Thanks for the video and thanks everyone for the comments they have also taught me a things of two as well! I appreciate it guys !
Thanks !
After filling and before it hardens you can place wax paper over it to future smooth it out. Once it sets up, the wax paper will easily peel off.
Thanks for watching and the comment !
That is a very good idea since polyester resins cure best when they are in an anaerobic environment. I have often mixed a tiny amount of liquid paste wax in the final resin layer of fiberglass projects. The wax will float to the surface sealing the resin.
@chrisallen2005 Thanks ! Wow, I just learned something new. I'll have to try that next time I do some fiberglass work. Thank you for the tip !
I did it last summer accidently and created a perfect back fender rocker panel which I think is now water proof and rust proof. The back of my rocker panel is made of bondo only. Any metal that was in this area was removed after I formed a bondo made panel over the old area. Works like a charm so far. I plan to use bondo mixed with resin to create molds for making auto body parts in the future. Great combos.
Great, but remember there's a recommended thickness for bodyfiller, And the rule is always do you meddle or correctly and then body filler sparingly?
Hey thanks for leaving the comment and for watching you are appreciated
There is a type of foam that is much better than using bondo you use bondo to finish the foam off before you prime and paint it.I used to build mold for all different cars flares whale tails spoilers but the foam is how you start then carve the foam with cheese graters and sanders.
What is the foam called ?
@@nicholaslazares5530 foam?
@@nicholaslazares5530probably surfboard foam
Awesome tip! And a small amount strongly thinned for self leveling? Genius!
It's a really old bodyman trick, just passing it on to you. Remember too much resin and the mix will be harder to sand.
Does it get harder with the addition of the thinner? Does it shorten the working time?
@@coreyquante2616 I would say yes as its harder to sand
Great tip. I thought I heard it all. Who knew. I’m such a beginner. Thanks.
Glad to share, I learn new stuff everyday !
I started doing this back in the early 80s. Every now and then I pick up my Hutchens Hustler and thank God I don't have to use it anymore!
Dude I still have my hutchins from the 90s still going strong ! Best air tools you could buy back then. I had no money. They were pretty pricey but worth it. I was just able to get it off the tool truck
Thanks, I'll use this to soften the last bit in the large cans 👍.
Thanks ! I wish I would have mentioned that in the video.
We did this in the early '70s working in dealership body shops. I see the cream hardener has come a long way, from pink to blue. And they added Spanish words to the front of the can. They're pretty good with that Bondo, I don't think they need any instructions. They know what the word Bondo means world wide. In TJ they don't pull dents, they fill them with newspaper and cover them with chicken wire and on goes the Bondo.
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Wow! Been playing a bit over the years (40 yrs) with bondo and never saw this trick. It makes so much sense. I don’t hardly ever try body work, but when I have, yes this has been an issue. Next time, I will try your resin trick. Thanks again!
Awesome ! main aim is eliminate pinholes, start with 10% resin added. It will help
Evercote makes a really good glazing putty to fill in pinholes it is white and sands really nice and smoothly this is for professional quality work
@@ericjkent I use advantage glaze a lot less expensive, easy sanding, evercoat makes good products also
I have done this and I have also mixed bondo with 2 part clear epoxy resin, with and without the bondo hardener. Both seem to work pretty good. It's good for repairing rotten wood, etc.
I haven't tried w/o hardener, I'll have to check that one out. Thanks for the comment and watching !
Does it harden without the hardner? Does cream hardner work with epoxy resin?
@@duanethieme4186 You still have to mix the part A and the part B clear epoxy together as usual. The bondo hardener won't harden either the part A or part B epoxy as far as I know, at least without the bondo being in the mix.
You would just need to experiment with your own materials to find what works best for you. If you are going to try to mix clear part A and B epoxy and bondo together, I would add the bondo hardener last. Then try it without the bondo hardener and see how it works for you. If I remember right, it took a few more days to fully harden without the bondo hardener in the mix.
@@NTSRFR4 Thank you for the information!
2 part marine penetrating epoxy add DMSO for dry rot. Wood hardner on steroids.
RONDO!!...This is an old trick my father taught me from the 70s
Yeah it's been around along time... just passing it on.
Super helpful. I'm no pro at all, so every tip is appreciated!
You are exactly the person I made the video for ! Start 10% - 15% resin added it will elininate pinholes and make the filler easier to work with
@guzzifabrication3448 I will definitely try this and update you after the holidays. Thanks again!
Dang i wish I had heard this trick 40 years ago..Thanks! Great video!
Better late than never.
Hey thanks for watching and leaving a comment much appreciated
Same here. I'm 70 and retired now, but it is still nice to know.
@@bobrocco4218 your not retired... your just refocusing what you want to do in life. Cheers !
Glad to have you back Robert 😎
Happy holidays happy new year
Hey brother you too !
Looks just like a 2 part spot putty that Ive used. Thanks
Except for the color, evercoat finishing glaze
Exactly a 2 part glazing putty epoxys have similar chemistry as do polyurethane paints@@guzzifabrication3448
I love this tip. Where were you 50 years ago when I was doing body work ?
I tried to call you 50 yrs ago, but you didn't return my call..... this is a really old bodyman trick, just passing it on.
I will always use your method for now on. Thank you very much
this is an old bodyman trick I was shown along time ago, now I'm showing you. If used correctly, it can be a hugh help. Remember, not too much resin. Thanks !!
This is why i live this channel. On a nother note. Seeing how you are so great at answering questions. I just bought a 1960 2 door sedan Bel Air. It is a factory 348 car. When I opened the trunk i found a date code correct Tri Power intake with no carbs. The car has the factory motor still in it but i am not able to read the engine pad by the heads. How can i tell if this was a factory Tri Power car. Also this car has been parked in a private junk yard for 50 plus years. The owner of the yard passed some years ago and the family knows nothing about the car. I am wanting to sell it and do not want to get taken on the price if this is truly a rare car. Thanks Adam. Keep up the great content I learn something every time you make a video. Also I have decided to replace the roof on the 63 Belair that you helped me with by answering my last question.
For the id try: jalopyjournal.com the H.A.M.B. Some very knowledgeable people on that site. They can point you in the right direction or answer the question directly. Hey, glad I can help thanks for your support. And following the channel ! glad the roof worked out
As always thanks for the direction. It's hard to find people that run business like yours that are willing to share the knowledge. They hold it like they have the answer to life. People like you help keep this hobby alive.
@@jessicaandadamlawson4979 Karma....
This looks identical to upol dolphin glaze. Brilliant bit of gear, and now I don’t have to buy it! How have I not heard of this before, I’ll never know 😂
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As a wood patternmaker we used a lot of bondo for blends and fillets.
Fifty years ago I was mixing polyester resin in the bondo for some applications.
Yep, I never realized how much woodworkers use bodyfiller until I made this video. Thanks for the comment !
@@guzzifabrication3448 I used bondo to help create the right hand side of a Kenworth trucks fenders. Used it to make templates then squeezed the shape and filled in-between.
We did not use bondo brand though.
Another easier thing that helps out here,... simply stirring the filler in the can before you slap it on the mixing board. Just like anything else that is made and then sits on the shelf for months, everything settles and separates. I'm sure you don't get a brand new container of sour cream, open it and just dig in and spread it on the baked potato. You mix it up to get the milk that has risen to the top, back down into the body of the cream. Technically you are correct, in that those are the same ingredients. But when the chemists at Bondo made that mud, they knew what they were doing, and formulated it perfectly for the application of that product. No, that doesn't mean you can't add stuff to it to make it flow differently, but I am saying that every time you open the container, stir it for a few minutes to keep the same consistency throughout the use of that container, and it will have similar results to your thinning method.
Thanks for the input !
Thanks for the video. Going to be doing some body work soon and this is going to help. I don't understand why people have a need to put down any useful information instead of positive information. Even the downside of thinning is more useful than just saving 'stupid'. Anyways thanks for taking the time to help others, i know what's involved with putting together a video.
That's awesome ! thank you, hope the trick helps
I don't use body filler all that often, but the last time I opened the can, it was very thick, and when I mixed it, lots of bubbles. I would have suspected that you added acetone. Next time I'lm going to add some resin, what a difference. Thanks - Jim
I had comments of people using acetone or laquer thinner.... I wouldn't.... adding a little fiberglass resin to body filler cans that have set for awhile will work perfectly. Thanks Jim !
Acetone will ruin it@@guzzifabrication3448
Been doing this since my first airbrush days in 1980. I learned from the best. RIP Kent Ford Imperiale...
Well... here's to Fent Ford 🙏 , I Remember those who taught me also and am very thankful
A Few Years Back , I WATCHED One Of The Custom Car Builders POUR OUT His
One Gallon Of Bondo Onto The Car He was Building ; I Have Been LOOKING For
THE ANSWER ALL THESE YEARS ! NOW I KNOW HOW HE DID IT !!
THANK YOU FOR THIS !!
Thank you for watching and commenting !
Thanks for the tip! Wish I'd have known this years ago!
An old time trick, just passing it on, now it's yours !
@@guzzifabrication3448 thanks much!
In my old shop there was an aqua can from Evercoat called Honey we would add to Z Grip body filler and it worked great.
I've seen that it works great, the fiber glass resin is a little less expensive. Thanks for watching
You learn something new ,that’s awesome method,thank you ,will try it
Just passing on a really old body man, it's yours now! Thanks for watching !!
Glad I come across this video! Many thanks!
It's a really old bodyman trick.Just passing it on if it's used correctly.It has a lot of benefits.
Thanks for the comment !
Yer you can see that resin on top when you open a new tin..great idea..👌
Especially if the guns been sitting for a while, Thanks for the comment and watching
I already knew that stuff duh..... LoL 😂😂😂 awesome video. I was taught that years ago when you would get down to the bottom of the can it would be impossible to blend it so we would mix that in it presto..... Mo Bondo lol.... It's really just cause we didn't take the time to mix it in the first place lol but it works!!! Thanks 😊😊😊😊
Thanks, yeah this is for all the guys on their first time project Or they don't have a lot of experience with filler
I figured this out years ago while finishing custom fiberglass interior pieces.
Great ! thanks for the input !
I will definitely be using this on my 1948 Ford F47 truck project.
Awesome!
Thanks for the video. They also make Bondo thinner that is similar. I use evercoat plastic Honey resin. It is made for thinning filler and works great.
Hey thanks for the input thanks for watching
That's what I thought he was going to add.
👍@@Troy_Built
Wow, I've never heard that before. Awesome video as always 👍
Glad to share ! Please like and share, thanks for watching
been looking for that Idea for a couple of years now, thanks pal.
Old time bodyman trick, happy to pass it on.
Did this at the stereo shop I worked at in the late 90's. We used to call it Rondo.
Nice ! Works well with wood.
As soon as I started watching this video i knew that you were going to use either fiberglass Resin or icing . Both are old tricks that we have used for or 20 years. And it works great. And this was a great Idea to show DIYers how to do it. Because I've see people do their own body work and then bring it for paint then wonder why it looked like crap. And they need to stop using that spot puddy .
Thank you. Yeah, this was intended for those new guys. Are the guys doing first time projects in the garage? To give him a helping hand not my trick. Been around for a really long time, just passing it on brother.
Yeah I'm an old guy now and did glass work for ages. That's what bondo is! Resin and talc mixed!!
Ahh the nitro-stan, Brother when I got into this business in the 90s. The Body Shop ( collision )normal was finished out in 80 coat nitro stand before you go home and ship to paint.... talk about sucking up in about 3-4 after paint..... That's why I moved into frame/ structural repair and metal fabrication. I wasn't gonna do that to people...
Yes that red spot putty is junk i would never ever use that shit
@@ericjkent Agreed nitro stand is one hundred percent bad....
That is a great result. When I have used body filler, it has done my head in with the rough rinish and air pockets. Great upload young man!
pin holes can be a real problem... this adresses that, glad to share
This is a top ten tips on YT, i am doing a boat project with a boat from 1959 and a Sea-doo from 2005, very much fiberglass work on this!
It's a really old time trick, just passing it on
Thanks Robert. I always enjoy your videos and learn something too.
Thank you for always supporting the channel, you are much appreciated !
Thank you so much for sharing that with us!
This is for all the new people doing body work that have never seen this trick before, Thanks for watching !
Nice tip. I’m going to use that. I know it’ll make the job easier.
Thank you.
That's awesome ! definitely will reduce pinholes
I add resin per batch to control viscosity, with resin hardener and cream hardener. Evercoat also makes a filler additive that does the same thing. If you're working with cheap fillers, the 🎉resin hardener helps with shrinkage.
Thanks for the info !
I learned about this from Stan Winston Studios. They Call It Rondo. ( Resin Bondo)
I've heard it called that before hey thanks for the comment and input I appreciate you
Great video. I've been doing that for a few years now. It works really nice that way
Awesome ! Thanks for watching
I used to do this
It definitely helps make the filler creamy and lays down smooth, but it becomes a lot harder to sand with the higher amount of resin added
My main goal is elimimating pinholes, add 10 to 20% more than that and yeah it makes sanding harder. Thanks for the comment
@@guzzifabrication3448I had to add it to the filler I was provided because it was cheap junk and once I would sand it, it would end up like the moon all full of craters. I added resin and it helped that problem but created a new one. But what works for the individual is up to them
Plus sanding with a machine, just go down a grit to start?
@@garychandler4296 Start with a cheese grater, that's the next video. Thanks for all of the comments
Agreed, it does make it harder to sand.
I've wondered if mixing in some polyester spray filler might be the go.
Great tip to know AND IT WILL BE MUCH EASIER to apply with less sanding due to the smoothness. Thank you appreicate it.
Thanks ! remember the more resin you add yes the more liquid the mix will be, too much resin added and the filler will be harder to sand. If you are using it on a wood working application it's not such an issue.
I've not done a lot, but back in my chopper days, I would cut off lumps with a sharpened pucky knife before it hardened, but I may try the cheese grater if needed.
I've shaped and contoured alot with my pocket/boxcutter.
This is just what I needed, thank you.
Glad it helped !
Wow this is an amazing tip, thanks. Filler was always frustrating to work with because of the pinholes, plus this would be less to sand and stronger because of the resin.
Thanks for watching just passing on something I learned. Maybe make your life easier. Hey remember to like and share
nNot stronger, the same all good
@@walkertongdee 👍
Usually no need to do that unless the can sat on the store shelf not selling for a long time that will dry up and mess up a project.
Merry Christmas!
Great idea,thanks for the tip!!!
Thank you, sir. Just passing on an Old time trick someone showed me now i'm showing you !
Don't know if this is cheaper than buying "better" filler. But looks like it's a definite upgrade. Always hated the pinholes and having to re apply. Thanks!
This is an old time trick way before ever coat z grip and rage and all the other high in body fillers.
And it's aimed at more towards the guy's just new to body work. They're probably going to be buying the less expensive body fillers trying to help them out. Thanks for watching
I was born into a body shop family and I have always just used bondo it is fine for my needs sometimes someone will leave the lid off of a can and it will dry out I just add a little Honey fiberglass resin to it and it is good to go@@guzzifabrication3448
What you have to watch out from this stuff is it will shrink over time and if you don't let it sit and shrink for a few weeks and then you start painting the primer on and blocking and getting the finish where it feels good and dont let the primer dry and shrink you will have flaws that will show up in your paint finish . A good friend of mine has been doing body work for years and was a teacher at the university of Eau Claire WI as a body shop teacher and he said the Bondo brand body fillers and spot putty is junk because it shrinks like crazy compared to the better 3M brands and others . Right now we are doing a 67 Mercury Cougar that we turned into a fast back and he said that even the good body fillers after being cut down and sanded should sit for a couple weeks preferably outside in the sun or in warmer temps so the mud can shrink up and then add another layer of mud until the panel feels good and then shoots the epoxy primer on and let's that shrink and eventually uses this black charcoal like stuff that he wipes on in circular motion that is like a guide coat that will show the high and low spots that show up during the blocking process . Once it's cut down where he wants it perfect he then shoots the primer sealer on it and lets that shrink for a couple weeks then everything gets wet sanded down and dried and prepped for paint and the paint is then left to sit and harden for a couple weeks before a wet sand and buff then the clear coat goes on and that sits and shrink to be wet sanded and buffed . Obviously this technique can't be used in a modern body shop where cars need to be done quickly for the customer but for show cars this technique works flawless and the outcome is beautiful straight as a arrow body work by him . We just finished a 69 Plymouth Road Runner and he's already won some trophies with it over 3 other Road runners that were at the same car shows . I remember using this stuff back in the late 70s and it would shrink and even when using the spot putty they made then it would shrink and crack after painting a car and you could see this along with any sanding scratches that showed up because the spot putty was basically made of clay and would shrink on the used cars we were fixing for car stealerships lol mainly a certain Ford dealership in the twin cities that wanted them done as cheap as possible and didn't want us welding up any rust holes or patch panels so we used cardboard and tape and news paper for filler to lay the mud over and I felt so bad that they were outright ripping off the customers buying supposedly good used cars from them but that's what they wanted and paid us to do . Maybe this product has gotten better but with most things now the EPA has changed the ingredients used in paints and body fillers to make them safer to use which killed the quality of the product that it's actually worse now and cheap compared to years ago but maybe with what you added to the mud added some strength and it doesn't shrink like it used to but I wouldn't use this for a custom car or show car or some kind of concourse restoration on something that's rare and worth a lot of money when done because it could come back to bite you and once word gets out to others that this happened by you you then have created a bad reputation and people will stop using you for body work . I got out of body work years ago because I got sick of all the sanding and blocking and went to do the mechanical side of things working at speed shops in the twin cities for years until I retired and now help my buddy at his shop working on cars we are building to sell for profit be it muscle cars or rat rods or old cars in general to stay busy so I do most of the engine builds and drive train suspension stuff while he does the body stuff .
@@peteloomis8456 All body filler, all catalyized materials experience shrinkage, the trick is to do metal work correctly and use a minimum of filler, that's the difference between a high end craftsman shop and a body shop.... before primer all filler should cure for 2 days then after primer and blocking 20 to 30 days before painting..... that's if you want to avoid any shrinkage issues. It's not just that the filler will shrink.... the primer, the base coat, the clear will also shrink..... by the way you are aware 3M makes ''Bondo'' brand body filler, right ?
back in the 1980s, I took body shop in high school. one of the biggest mistakes with Bondo is mixing it on cardboard according to fritz, our teacher. he was a former body shop owner. he said the cardboard sucks the "goodies" out of the Bondo. I personally use a window glass out of a ford truck to mix my Bondo. take it for what it's worth.
Cardboard = Demo LOL.....
Awesome tip!...That is definitely a game changer. Thanks for sharing!
it's a really old time bodyman trick, of course it has it's do's and do's like everything else, but try it start with 5%, the main goal is eliminating pin holes and making the mix alittle more creamy and easier to spread. Add too much and it will be very liquid and harder to sand. Thanks for the commnent !
Learn something new everyday !
Thanks brother !
Great tip! I've heard of people adding resin to kitty hair filler (Bad Chad for one), but not to regular bondo. Glad I have subscribed, learned something from both videos you have had since I subscribed. Thanks!!
Thanks for the sub! Yeah adding little extra resin to the fiberglass Reinforced filler works great too, It's all about learning I learn new stuff every day.
Wow. I never heard or thought about the fiberglass filler. Would be a great help with that.
@@derrickwebb7230 Yes Sir ! try it out
Just use matt fiberglass and resin lots cheaper, then use the Bondo and resin he describes as a glazing Bondo top coat.
plus 10 ---- what a great tip. Best TH-cam tip I've read in some time. Thank You
Thanks ! it's an old body man trick, just passing it on. start with 5% work up, too much resin and the mix will become runny and more difficult to sand.
That’s called RONDO, and some guy with a lot simpler description had posted this formula years ago. Also this formula does work great in colder temperatures.
Great tip , thank you!😊
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve seen that trick before but in car audio applications to build custom speaker pods with MDF and that mix so it almost self leveled. The guy called it Rondo because it was Resin and bONDO so he added the R from resin. That was in the late 80s early 90s. Advantage of growing up in Stillwater OK home of Stillwater Designs aka Kicker the pioneer in car audio. Thanks to Steve Irby and his buddies partner who then left and formed Q-Logic the drop in speaker pod company.
Very cool, I lived in Tulsa for awhile
The Car Audio world is where I first heard about it too. Though they were thinning it with more resin, and they called it "milkshake". Same concept though.
@@Ellington_Industrial_Arts Yeah those guys use alot of filler too. Merry Christmas
Great tip! I will definitely try this the next time I use Bondo.
Try it out, let me know, watch the next video that will help even more ! Happy New Year !
I did this 30 plus years ago just because I needed the bondo a bit thinner and more workable. I also used a drill mixer to mix the stuff in the can before hand and then pulled a Vacuum on the can to pull out bubbles. It worked great. But this reminds me of why I don't do body work, I hate it. Pain in the arse!
Haha as soon as I read your title I knew this is where we were going ... Its a great tip and I was shown this trick from old skool body guy almost 30 yrs back.. Still use to this day. I've never had any issues.. Good there's guy like ya out here keeping these tricks alive for the youngin's
Thanks ! just trying to pass on some good, old time tricks !
Great video thanks! I have both bondo and resin and hated how thick and lumpy the bondo was when I used it.
This will help, start conservative with the resin. Thanks for the input !
I tried this forever ago, and it worked to make it smoother, but it sanded 10 times harder. Good video keep up the good work.
If too much resin is added, yeah the filler will be harder to sand, start wit 5-10% for eliminating pin holes. Thanks for the comment !!
Man? I love ideas like these! Thank you for sharing knowledge!
It's an old time bodyman trick, I'm just passing it on. If used correctly, it definitely is a plus
I be damned.. thank you for that tip..🤦wished i knew that a fews ago... Thank you brother.. Merry Christmas to your family..
Happy holidays to you and family and a blessed new year !