How Thick Can Bondo Be? Will Auto Body Filler Crack, Shrink, Fall Out?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ส.ค. 2021
- This video may help answer the question, "How Thick Can Bondo or Body Filler be Applied?" Points out that, as long as you've bumped it the best you can and the surface is prepared correctly, filler can be applied to your needs without fear of cracking, shrinking or falling out.
Tools and Materials:
Wax and Grease Remover: Auto Body Master (Auto Value Auto Parts Stores)
Body Hammer: Martin Tools MRT158G General Purpose Pick Hammer with Hickory Handle
Grinder/Sander: www.harborfreight.com/corded-...
Fiber Resin Disc for Grinder 36 grit: (Great Deal) benchmarkabrasives.com/collec...
Body Filler: Auto Body Master Light Weight Body Filler $20/gal
Metal Spreaders: www.amazon.com/Coster-Steel-A...
Cheese Grater: Stanley 21-299 10-Inch Surform Half Round Regular Cut
Air File: Viking V100 w/ 36 grit paper
Medium Length Board: AES 9-1/2" Sanding Board - 6074 w/ 80 grit paper
DA Sander: National Detroit
Primer: Autobody Master Lacquer Primer Surfacer
Spray Gun: Sharpe Finex FX3000 1.8mm tip - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
You're the master of putting rumors and myths to rest. "You can't do autobody work with a flux core welder." Busted. "You can't make a lasting rust repair with fiberglass." Busted. "You can't fill a deep dent with bondo." Busted yet again. Keep up the good work and the great videos.
Only time I have had filler crack is when it was over an inch thick. Fiber strand filler from Napa has always held up for me. Surface prep is important.
I love it. I appreciate that very much. Thanks for the entertaining comment JOAT29 - Have a great week :)
Sure you can…..I used a cutting torch to braze a quarter panel on…..you just gotta be a badass not a pretend welder
Cant fill a deep dent with filler?
Thats all i ever see, filler inch thick over door dents.
@@800624 if you apply it in layers it still will not crack
Back in the day, we used a garbage can lid for a mixing palate and a full gallon can of Bondo to fill a smashed in quarter panel (inches thick lol). Still looked good years later until the car was sold...
I believe it :)
Ur crazy dude.
I. Watching body filler vids cuz instead of dent pulling my rocker panels I have about 24 inch dent on passenger side rocker from back door to rear tire.
Today I first sanded paint with 180 and than 1500 grit only sandpaper I had. I sand the paint as much as I could to get to metal. Washed it. Let dry. Applied Bondo one whole small can (increments at time I'm not a psycho over here whole gallon garbage can lid!!! Lol ur. Legend) I used a clip board. For mixing. BTW I love ur bondo mixing and meticoulos Ness swiping off the dried Bono from squeegee. That was so satisfying. Along with the whole video was so satisfying. My dad owned body shop in Jersey for 20 yrs. I never go into this stuff.... Anyway rabbit trailing so no I'm still left with a lot a lot of I guess space or air u til I create enuff body filler to remake the rocker symmetric again
Any advice? I'm cool with just sanding it as is and prime sand and prime and paint but I would like to see if there is that Bondo jelly and carbon fiber I'm thinking to just bring the body filler out more ya know maybe it's on there 1/4 inch I'm thinking another 1/4 or 1/2 inch!
Can the jelly be applied to already applied Bondo body filler.
I should of pulled the dent I tried used the glue gun crap but there were some variables which lead me to just go strate into the body filler. There also the drill the holes in the rocker and put a bolt in there I have a dent hammer puller. Came with the kit it's a lil toy one but it still works. The weight of the hammer thing is light if it was heavier I can see it having real oomph. Can I drill a hole thru the applied and dried body filler? Anyways very cool work the panel I think would of been faster to somehow pull that dent but how the heck would u pull a long lateral dent like that... The process was prolly fun and satisfying since u have the proper tools and wisdom for it anyway...
Laterz
Daniel
Clearwater FL
@@dannyr333 Here's a couple vids on pulling if you want to see how serious dents can be pulled - th-cam.com/video/ybwR7VcclhA/w-d-xo.html or th-cam.com/video/RSopz6XWncQ/w-d-xo.html You can drill through the filler and pull it like that if you want, Any filler that cracks just chip it out or grind it out a bit - don't remove it all. Myself, I wouldn't be afraid to just fill it and build it out - not sure how big the dent is though. If your car is going to lean over to one side from the weight of the filler then... I might try something else :) Anyway don't be afraid of thick filler - that cracking and falling out stuff doesn't really happen if it's applied right. Just try to crack a brick of bondo! Ain't happening :) Let me know how it goes and if you want send pics to schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com - Jerry
@@dannyr333 1500? I'm sorry but that bondo will fall out. You always use at least 80 grit or the filler has nothing to stick to
Glad to see you setting a good example by wearing a mask. Most videos show the person welding, grinding, sanding bondo, spray painting sometimes while smoking and drinking. My friend died at 45 because he never wore a mask and believed he was invincible. Never a good idea to breath powdered rust, steel, paint and bondo.
You're right. Feels good to be safe - you only get 2 eyes, 2 lungs, 1 heart, etc :)
Watching this I feel confident to continue doing it this way. So many channels seem to make you feel rough for not basically getting the panel perfect before you use bondo.
The best quality body shops - dealerships and private use filler every day of the year and no one knows it because they use it correctly. Never feel bad about using filler. Most bosses, managers and coworkers would not stand for a guy playing w/ a dent all day trying to get it perfect w/o filler. TV, magazines and internet use filler too - just off camera :)
Never feel bad about using filler but remember. The better your metal work, the better the result.
Only the high spots are worth banging on with a wrench. As soon as they are below grade, go straight to grinding and filling. Never pay for paintless dent repair. They may not even get it as perfect as you could with bondo and spray cans ;)
Yes & Yes - you can put it over old filler as long as that filler is stuck really well and you sand it first before applying :)@@srodriguez6446
My favorite channel for body repair tips, guidelines and tutorials!!! I’m just over the border in Indiana, but if ever I’m in your neck of the woods, I’d love to stop by!!
That would be great. My email is under the "About" tab if you ever plan the trip. Have a good weekend and thanks for the support - Jerry
A 73 charger I did a few years ago the filler was 24mm thick on the passenger side and it was like that for 30 years. I ended up replacing the entire passenger side of the car but I was impressed with how well shit that was 1" thick survived.
Good video, Jerry. On my old truck, the paint job was at least 20 years old. After having the body sandblasted, for restoration, I discovered areas that were 1/2” thick of filler. In looking at the truck, you would have never known there was any filler. Like you said, the secret is good metal preparation.👍
Thanks for sharing that - I always appreciate your comments my friend :)
oh i would know in a heartbeat, but...i know too much lol
I bought a brand new 1964 Plymouth Savoy slant 6, 3 on the tree and I drove that car for 20 years and 200,000 miles before I discovered it had been damaged in front of the left rear wheel well either before it left the factory or before it left the dealership. The damaged area was the diameter of a basketball and filled in with 1/2" of bondo.
Question: May need to use fiber glass cloth first. Can one apply Bondo over FG???
Always informative. I think the old myths about filler come from a time when fillers weren't as good as they are now and people didn't do a proper surface prep.
Very nice clear demonstration without expensive tools, etc. Jerry, the Master at work!
I appreciate the support William - have a good weekend my friend :)
I’m in the middle of my first project car and I get so much out of your videos. All the naysayers out there, but you tell how to get it done. Thanks!
I appreciate that K Kendall. If that's you last name - that's cool. That's a bad a%& last name. You're welcome BTW
I have used your teaching techniques several times recently, and they are right for the job being done. Thank You!
Thanks Mark - that's good to hear. I learned them from some pretty good body men so they are legit :)
I really like the way you desab things and take the time to show it all the way through to the end! Thank you
You welcome Terry - glad you liked the video. Have a good week :)
I like to use long hair fiberglass filler in deep areas to build it up and then scimcoat with regular filler. You have a better chance of the area not cracking with the long hair filler. Everyone has their own way of doing things.
Nice tip Glock Man :)
Another great video Jerry. The repairs you have done on the truck have been very educational. Thanks so much.
The old truck is about ready to be painted. You're very welcome - thanks for the support as always. Hope everything is good with you :)
This guy literally has the best auto body channel. Simple easy to understand and to the point, unlike some other much bigger channels
I appreciate that TRP - glad you enjoy the vids. Have a good weekend 👍😊🏈
As always another well explained tutorial video, nice one Jerry.👍🏻
Thanks for the support v8man - always good to hear from you - have a good weekend my friend :)
Great video Jerry not money people will show videos like this but you did keep up the good work Jerry
Thanks husky - I always appreciate your comments :)
Love the scraper clean off technique. Nice work!
Thanks 👍
Great video as always! You make this stuff look too easy! Good job!
Thank you very much Santer - I appreciate that - have a good week :)
oh please. You could build a car body out of bondo. When I was a teen I worked in a body shop where we would fix old service trucks. The trucks we bought used, and were sooo dented they were essentially one great big continuous dent after like 20+ years of being beat up on construction sites. We would often drill over a 1,000 holes to pull the big dents, then everything else was bondo. I frequently had bondo that literally ran from one bumper to the other bumper.
After restoring them (paint, engines, etc), we would put them in to use on a construction company the shop owner ran. so, it was not like they were then lightly used. never seen one inch of bondo fail.
FYI, because they were service trucks, the owner was my boss, and speed was what it was all about, the boss did not care if the bondo was perfect. we had to get them out working. so, essentially I was allowed to get away with doing basically everything you were never suppose to do with bondo. For example rust holes that should have had the metal replaced, hit them with a bit of sand paper, and just bondo them over. Or holes that were way too big for bondo, just build it up. often with a lot of rust still under it. The metal probably failed before the bondo. we knew it was done wrong, but we did it anyway. bondo is crazy forgiving.
Thanks . You answered one of my big questions.
I'm glad - never worry about that or be ashamed of using filler the way you need to. I think all that talk comes from old magazines and such. Filler is used in every body shop across the nation and nobody notices it because it's being applied correctly (most of the times :)
I think we need some Lakeside edition filler spreaders, Jerry! Thanks for the demo on cleaning them, very helpful.
Not a bad idea. I was thinking of having my friend (good wood worker) make Lakeside Autobody sanding blocks with the name on the side, etc. Have a good weekend Erich - always good to hear from you.
I'd be honored to support your channel by purchasing one of those, be sure to let us all know if you go for it! You deserve something for all of the great knowledge you share.
@@erichzimmerman797 I appreciate that :) I'll be sure to let you know if I get something going like that. Thanks again.
Lacquer thinner cleans a spreader quick and easy
You make it look easy my friend! Nice job!
Thanks Ron - have a good week :)
I really enjoyed this. I'm fixing up an olb beater. Trying to bring it's beauty back. You just gave me confidence
I like how you keep it real. No b.s.
I appreciate that Jason - feel free to ask ?s as you go - I get to them 1-2 times a day :)
@@LakesideAutobody ok.. Thanks i defintly probly will!!
Amazing quality work
Another great video Jerry. You have shown you only need to do three things for great work, preparation, preparation, preparation!
If you decide to put some merchandise out I would be interested.
Thanks 👍 I've been working on the merch but so busy lately. Have a good week and thanks for the support Leigh :)
Great video Jerry you really make it simple and to the point!
I appreciate that UPK - hope everything is good with you down there. I went to Copart a few times in Davison (near Flint). Tried to bid on a few wrecks. A clean title 2015 Ford F150 Lariat 5.0 was bid up to $17,700. It needed about 2-3 thousand in parts and materials. I quit hitting the bid button at 17. Just incase you're wondering about Copart - It's very hard to get a really good deal on a clean title/run/drive/no bags blown damaged car. Take care. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody I looked into copart before but never bought anything…have a good week Jerry!
@@UndergroundPaintKing I think 'cause they're the only place like around that every one bids the stuff up too high - I'll mess around with it a bit more - at least I know what it's about now. Nice talking to you :)
Great Job. You make the process look simple.
Thanks Clayton - hope everything is good with you. Have a good year!
The Masters at work!! Love you guys!
Thanks Rob - have a good week and glad you like the channel :)
Jerry always makes filler work look so easy and does an awesome job. Thanks for posting the link for the resin disks. Looks like they've got good prices on abrasives.
Yes - they really do. The grinding discs hold up real well too. Haven't tried the paper yet. If you do let me know how you like it. Have a good weekend :)
Great to watch an artist at work!
I appreciate that Fred - nice to hear from you - hope everything this is going good with you :)
I've always sanded off till the clear came off and Abit of the base and it still worked fine after years
Awesome video mate 👍
Thanks 👍
You always make it look easy!
Hey Frank - good to hear from you - thanks for the support and have a good weekend :)
👍🏻Thanks for another awesome video!!!
Like the sunset!!!
Thanks Michael - crazy how orange/red the sun gets sometimes - not sure exactly what crates that but sure looks cool :)
Another great video! Thanks👍
I appreciate that Kevin - have a great week :)
That looks fantastic thank you i love body work just dont do much of it , very artistic
Thanks P - I appreciate your support. Happy New Year🎉
You do nice work. Thanks again!
You're welcome Daddy C - have a good week :)
Great video,Very inspiring! I'm about to take on my 1996 Chevy Silverado k1500 Ext.Cab 4wd...A couple of em are pretty deep dents! I will post some pics and video if that's ok?!? With love from Gulf Shores, Alabama!
Awesome info, straight to the point. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it RA - have a good week :)
I have seen a few events where bondo "failed". I once saw a car hit and a huge chunk of bondo and chicken wire popped out onto the road.... funny in a way but not really a bondo fail. I also was once at a car show and a fellow closed his door and the bondo filled rocker panel fell off onto his feet. Both of these had more than inches of bondo and, to me, showed failure of the "body men" more than the bondo. I seldom use it but when I do I try to keep it to the lease amount I can by pulling the metal all out. I also like the fiberglass filler better, then bondo then bubble filler. Thanks for the great video. Bobby
You're welcome Bobby - have a great week :)
I feel confident im going to do it today 👀
glad towards the end you mentioned not to try loading up a panel with bondo if gapping rot holes, now thats a mistake to shovel bondo onto a mess like that
You're right there Salt Pepper :)
Great video Jerry, way too much misinformation out there on what you can do with filler, you give us the straight poop 😊. I replaced the bottom of the liftgate on my Uplander about 5 years ago, used a lot of filler because my metalworking skills were amateur level, primed and painted and even today there is no sign of cracking or lifting. Surface prep is key and todays products are far superior.
Keep it up man, you're an inspiration whether you believe it or not, God bless and thanks!!
I really appreciate that my friend - makes my day when I hear stuff like that. You are right about misinfo - there's all kinds of it out there on every topic really. You have to become very good at sifting out the bad. Nice talking to you - have a good week :)
The biggest problem i see with peeling off filler or chunks coming off is improper prep. Normally whoever did the work didnt know what theu were doing or didn care. The surface should be keyed thoroughly, preferably bare metal. Also a big thing that i do that is important is to scrape and push the filler into all the scratches of the metal, dont have a light hand and immediatly put an 1/8 of filler on it, it needs to be pushed into the surface. Also make sure you dont have old dried up filler, i recomend 3m platnum plus over any other brands. Also mix the filler properly, i shoot for 5 minutes of work time, block around 10-15 minutes. Too much hardner or too little you will notice the edges wont feather right. If your spreading filler and it starts to cure LEAVE IT dont try to mush it around anymore because you can ruin the adhesion, plus half cured filler will not stick at all if you try spreading more on. Also for the last coat, mix a little polyester resin into the filler when mixing. It thins the filler slightly and makes it like a glazing putty. Finish filler work off with 180 and prime.
Thanks for your input ACR :)
Thanks for making this video .
You're welcome :)
Love the video 👍
You sir are a master at your craft!! 💯🙌🏾💪🏽
I appreciate that B2L - Happy New Year :)
Man you are 100% right prep is the key you have lousy prep it could be 1 mil thick and it'll bubble up and fall off thanks for the video always good work man!!
Absolutely my friend - always a pleasure talking to you Moparnut - have a good week :)
Great job,
Good info. Thanks
I'm a mechanic by trade (45 yrs.) Me and my buddy do some rust repair on older vehicles for ourselves and family so your cheaper alternatives are great info! Thank you.
You're welcome Scott - glad you like the video.
Love your videos, theres no BS at all 👍
I appreciate that Jukka - I like no BS in vids too especially when I looking up how to fix something :)
I had a media blasting business. I have blasted off very thick (3/4') filler that was applied correctly. You are correct
Thanks for that information Upptowne - Have a good weekend :)
Looks great Jerry
Thanks Gary - nice to hear from you - have a great week :)
Hi Jerry, I was thinking of you now, working in the dark { with decent lighting } using the stud welder and tapping with a hammer. Thanks for the great tutorials. Got my cheese grater and sanding long block.{ LONG BOARD] lol
Sounds like good times. You're welcome - I hope you find enjoyment and success from watching them. Have a good weekend my friend :)
Beautiful work Sir !
Thanks Shawn - I appreciate that :)
@@LakesideAutobody . You are welcome, and I’m now a fully addicted subscriber!
@@shawnmann9491 Thanks for the sub and have a great week my friend :)
Wow. What a great tip 👍
Thanks BMG - have a great weekend :)
Thanks for the Great Tips and info on filler that I've 🤔 been thinking about..Ya learn something new everyday..👍👍👍👍👍👍
You're welcome CSC - glad you enjoyed it :)
I agree. Heck, on an old s#%tbox Mercedes 190D I had after high school, I "sculpted" some of the tail fin details out of bondo. Wax & Grease Remover and fresh 36 grit are the two key steps! I like your cleaning tips for the metal spreaders. I bought a set but haven't tried them yet. A bit of lacquer thinner will wipe away any stubborn bits of bondo on a spreader.
What's your mixing board? I'm using one of those "onion skin" boards with the peel off paper. For years I used cardboard. I would cut a square, spread a thin layer of bondo and sand it smooth. This sealed the cardboard. Then mix, use, spread the leftover flat and use again. Some of them got pretty thick lol! The onion skin is ok, but I just might go back to my old tried and true! Another great video Jerry - real world methods taught by a Pro
Thanks so much Icar - always a pleasure hearing from you. My mixing board is that really thin hardboard (brown) - don't know exactly what it's called. You're right about the thinner - my boss used to keep his plastic spreaders in a can of thinner - kept them nice and clean. Have a good week :)
1/4" was fine for many years on my van until I moved to MN. When it got down to below zero it all cracked and started falling out.
I totally agree with you!
Nice job ! When can i get my truck in.
Its a chevy. Lol
Some of the channels show guys applying fiberglass filler like you would frost a cake. I try to use what I need but not over do that application. You can get there with a lot less Sanding and finish preping.
This is crazy. I was JUST thinking about this after watching some of your other videos. It’s like you read my mind. Awesome stuff that you put out! Thanks for the quality education.
You're very welcome Tyler. I appreciate the support and glad you enjoyed the content. Have a good weekend my friend :)
What are your thoughts on priming the metal before filler? Most shops don't, but some claim the fibers in the filler can allow water to get at the metal. I don't recall ever finding any corrosion under filler I've sanded off after sitting for years. To be safe, would a metal etching spray primer be good, or perhaps a wipe with phosphoric acid to etch the surface for better bite? I clean the filler off my tools with acetone, after scraping as much as I can. Right after getting back to the bench, the filler is already becoming very plastic-like and hard to remove. Before I learned about cheese-grating as soon as I finish cleaning the tools, I spent way too much time sanding.
I've never seen it in any body shop I've worked at. You absolutely don't need to do that. That's just an internet/TV/magazine thing - maybe to sell more products or something. Your paper with quickly clog anyway if you use epoxy primer before filler. Hope that helps :)
Looking good thanks
You're welcome Curt :)
My friend is a Bondo master. Ive seen him do some crazy stuff with it they I would never think it would work. My friend filled a quarter panel that was caved in with tons of Bondo and the repair is still holding with surprisingly no cracking until the engine went out and sent to the junkyard lol
If bondo is applied correctly it will never crack, peel, fall out, etc. I think the stories come from folks stuffing news paper into rust holes and then spreading filler over that - not going to hold up well at all :)
Is it really Necessary to use epoxy primer over bondo? Or is it just for certain paint colors? I was told that in certain lighting conditions I may see the bondo spot.
The only way you'll see the bondo through the paint is if there's not enough paint. You can use any automotive grade primer surface over your filler and if you gave it enough coats of paint (three is normal), you'll be fine. This video will demonstrate so that you'll never have that issue - th-cam.com/video/mApSa0l4euQ/w-d-xo.html
Hate to bother but do you have a video that i can follow for my project. I removed the rusty wheel well arches on my dodge truck. I welded in my patch and would like to know the next steps. I have some warpage in the panel from welding (about 8 inches up from the panel). I would like info on what high build primer,,,sanding grit steps etc, and then painting). I like how you teach and explain things i just wasnt sure if you had a video like that or if i should just follow a video like this. AND 1 last question, my tailgate i bought came in the black coating,,,what should i sand w b4 paint. Thank you sir for your info, time and videos
This playlist should work for you - it all centers on rusted wheel arches. If not ask me again - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you so much sir.
Awesome! You the man
Thanks Recharge :👍
thanks
What do you think of usc all metal bondo? Worth the extra cost? Suppose to be waterproof which may not matter after primer/paint, however, it does seem to cure harder thus perhaps more durable.
To be totally honest it can't hurt to use it but I'd never spend the extra $. To me all filler is the same and like you said filler doesn't have to be water proof. I suppose if you're throwing it over gapping holes it may help to be water proof though :) Anyway - again I've never had an issue with filler being durable or undurable. If your surface is solid and prepared correctly - your filler work will last forever and never be noticed.
I’m goin to try this thx
👍
For diy guys you can also knock down the hight spots with anything hard and pointy like the hammer. You don't have to actually use a real tool and if you dont have a grinder just get some paint stripper... paint stripper not thinner from your local hardware store and then get to the body filler or bondo process ❤
You're right - like a punch or even a Phillips screwdriver. You can use a drill and sanding disc for the grinder or sander too. I'll do a video on that maybe - just household tools for a paint job :)
@@LakesideAutobodythat would be awesome 😎👍👍❤
Would grindingn1st before pinging it with a hammer be better so you have a grindable surface sticking out or is it easier to drink that way a just a theory I have 0 exp just.wondering but great video as always
You can do it that way too. The only reason I leave the paint on the dent is to see the dent better in the shiny paint. You can see what needs to be tapped down and what needs to be pulled out using the shine :)
Nice job
Thanks!
I have some deep dents on my rear fender I’m not sure exactly how deep but I put a ruler flat and the tip of my pinky finger fit under the ruler and I measured my finger and it showed 1/4 of an inch but honestly it looks deeper then that but let’s say it’s 3/8 of an inch deep can regular body filler do the job no problem or should I use a bondo hair filler? If you have any suggestions on what I can use for deep dents it would really help me out thank you 🙏
That's not deep actually - you'll be fine. If you prepare the metal correctly - body shops use fiber resin disks 36 or 40 grit on slow speed to really rough up the metal. "Bondo" will not crack peel or chip no matter how thick as long as it has been applied correctly - no holes behind it and the metal roughed up real good with sharp sand paper or fiber resin discs :)
Cave and pave my dude! Seen folks get into trouble trying to pull damage they shouldn’t of attempted to mess with…
True true - thanks Kg :)
I’m restoring a 70 firebird that looks like it got side swiped on the RH side and got smashed a little bit on the very corner of the LH quarter panel. LH quarter may need to be replaced if I can’t get it out with a stud welder (damage is about the size of a basketball) but the RH quarter side has an 18 inch dent right on the body line. Friends are telling me both quarters need to be replaced but I believe the one side I can get away with hammering out the dent and using body filler. My buddies cringed when I told them I was thinking of using body filler instead of replacing the panel. I went to auto body school and was taught any panel, fender, hood, etc can be fixed without having to replace it, unless otherwise mangled or rusted out beyond repair. Was always told it’s worth repairing the original panel, if possible, instead of welding on low quality reproduction panels (with the exception of insurance work on newer vehicles). Am I wrong for trying to save the original metal? Not looking to use bondo more than a 1/4 inch thick and I don’t ever plan on selling this car once I’m done restoring.
Never be afraid to use body filler. Every shop across the nation uses it every day and no body notices 'cause they use it right. Here's a good side swipe video with filler - th-cam.com/video/MT2qarFo_nM/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobodythanks for the reply! I’m going to go ahead and use the bondo, I’d rather save an original part instead of buying an aftermarket panel that may not fit haha. I’ll check out that video!
When putting in thick body filler do you have to put it in layers or if it's a half inch deep can you just put it in with one application or you have to use multiple thin applications on top of each other thank you keep up the great work
You do not have to put it on in layers. Glad you like the videos - thanks for the support my friend :)
Great video! What does make it shrink and crack? I've seen cracked bondo and just watched a video from a guy where his cracked. Do you use the actual brand Bondo, or something better? I need to fill something so trying to research it. Thank You!
Thanks Stephen - body filler doesn't crack or shrink - period - don't listen to any other information. The problem is how it was applied. The surface has to be prepared with 36 grit fiber resin discs on slow speed for best adhesion, the surface has to be firm, it can't have even one tiny pin hole allowing moisture to get between the metal and filler, etc. There is a lot of stuff that folks do wrong when applying - even on TV, magazines and internet that will give Bondo or filler a bad name. I doesn't matter what filler you use - they are all the same. You just have to apply it correctly. Watch closely every step on how I apply filler (Dent Repair Playlist) for more on this. I will be doing a video on this topic soon - so hope you get to watch it :)
NO masking tape even needed for adjacent edges when filling OR when air boarding near the cab post edge EVEN 😳 I'd have 40 grit gouges ALL dug into the paint on adjacent panel (just like my last 1/4 repair against PAINTED door job. Lol.) Guy really knows what he's doing and there's NO overanalyzing NOTHING. Just gets in there and DOES IT! GREAT tip on CLEANING the metal 1ST THING, BEFORE even touching it for prep, that probably 90 percent of the people doin body/paint work on a daily basis, DON'T DO! (Then wonder why they have fisheyes in their paint). Can't NEVER have your surface TOO CLEAN! 👍
Thanks for the comment and support Jim - glad you enjoyed the content. Have a good week my friend :)
If I get my car fixed properly, and body filler is used, will it still sound like metal if I tap the repaired area? I need to know, because if it won't still sound similar when tapped with my fingers, I'll need to get my whole quarter panel replaced (which is really expensive on a coupe). It's just my OCD will forever trigger me if I'm tapping the car and it sounds like "thud" when I'm knocking on various areas of the body panel where repaired.
Yes it will sound like metal. If the guy who fixes it knows what he's doing and gets it very close before the filler, a magnet will stick to it and it will sound like tapping on metal.
@@LakesideAutobody thank you, that makes me feel more comfortable about getting my quarter panel repaired instead of replaced.
What grit DA paper did you use? At the DA sanding stage, are you getting all of the scratches out of the bare metal? Also, why is it necessary to block sand if you already primed the panel? Thanks a lot.
Good ?s. You don't have to get the scratches out of the bare metal - just the paint. You can start with 80 grit to make it faster. Usually though you'll start with 120 grit and finish with 220-320 further out. I finish with 220 further out then prime. Block sanding is to remove any low/high spots, imperfections, scratches in metal, etc.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks a million. I really love your videos!!
@@michaelstark777 🔥🛠👍✌
@@michaelstark777 🔥😊
What is the best most waterproof metal-reinforced filler that you would recommend??
I believe all of the reinforced filler is waterproof. You don't really need the metal in there but that's up to you. You should only be concerned with it being waterproof and that it is reinforced with fiberglass strands. Any name brand will work well - i.e. Bondo, USC, Evercoat - these three are really good :)
Hey do you use honey in your filler if you are skimming a roof panel? I am using Rage ultra with a long spreader sanding with 80. Should i just start with 40 grit? Taking forever even with the 32`` linear blocks
You really never need additives in filler. You never need any of that fancy putty type filler either. Always start with 36 or 40 finish w/ 80 no matter what any one says. Watch these vids and let me know if you have more questions th-cam.com/video/rv0uB-ZvrFo/w-d-xo.html **** th-cam.com/video/5lZWKYDK43Q/w-d-xo.html **** th-cam.com/users/shortssAv6Zay05E4
thank you!
@@LakesideAutobody
Another Epic guitar intro to a well done video. I learn something every time i watch em! Thanks Jerry! Master of the Cheese Grater!!!
I appreciate that 67 - glad you enjoyed the riff - have a good week :)
Cheese grater is a underrated tool
How about fillers for plastic bumpers. Are they the same as for metal parts? Is the process the same?
Here's a good video on that but you can use regular filler too. I've seen it done many times working in a body shop :)
Hi again I need ur advice once more plz. I need to know where to buy sandpaper n what grit to buy for auto body work. The DA sander u use ,the cheese grater, ur applicators, n the hammer n dollys. If by any chance I can buy used ones off u I would. Please help
I usually look for good deals on rolls of DA paper on Ebay or places like tptools.com. Indasa, Mirka, No brand name - they all do a pretty good job. For auto body tools at a low price try Harbor Freight - their stuff is pretty decent or used on Ebay :)
@@LakesideAutobody u came through again! Thank u brother
Question: May need to use fiber glass cloth first. Can one apply Bondo over FG??? It was hit and run. Got rear door and panel. $$$Estimate $3500!!!!! "03 Corolla runs great. Fun to drive.
Yes. If it's a dent you can use all body filler. No need for fiberglass cloth. If you feel you need extra strength use fiberglass reinforced filler like bondo glass or dura glass. Cloth is more for rust holes. Hope that helps a bit :)
@@LakesideAutobody Got it. thanks for the info.
Do you have any videos on setting the spray guy pressure ? Thanks
Here's one on "Rules of Thumb" for spray gun setting you might like : th-cam.com/video/2Yd0ykULtm8/w-d-xo.html Let me know if you have a specific question I can answer for you - Jerry
Wow . Thanks u sir for the fast response
I wonder if a person could use a different brand of body filler over existing filler of a different brand if the surface of the filler was prepped with 40 to 60 grit to make sure it got good hold?
Yes - all brands are very similar and work very well together. You can put any brand over another brand as long as it is sanded first.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for responding! I appreciate it alot!
There is a product, 3M Nida Core, that is for doing a liquid transom replacement on boats. It looks a little like bondo but is much harder/stronger, it's not even overly expensive at $200 per 5 gallon pail but it only comes in 5 gallon pails.
I wonder if this ceramic epoxy could replace bondo????
Ill stick to my 20 dollar a gallon bondo that works perfectly fine lol
What body filler should I use to finish off a new cab corner
Any body filler will work. There's a lot of talk about this one being better than that but they're all very close - like buying corn flakes really. Get the cheapest gallon you can find :)
what machine is that at 4:44? can you provide make of model so I can search it in google.
Thanks
That is a Viking V100 air file - Astro Pneumatic makes one that will work the same only a bitt less pricey :)
Fantastic thanks
You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it :)
So was that primer surfacer polyester or epoxy? Thanks
That was lacquer primer surfacer. I use that for general repairs. It works well, dries super fast, cheap, sands easy, builds fast, doesn't harden in the cup, you can throw the unused portion back in the can. Remember... before the 90's that's all there was besides poly. I don't think polyester came out until sometime in the 80's - might be wrong on that though. Hope that helps Lucas :)
Even though this is not proper repair, it is oddly satisfying.
Thanks Justin. If it lasts your lifetime does that make it proper?
@@LakesideAutobody it would trigger my OCD to know that there is body filler on my car...
@@LakesideAutobody It depends. If I'm tapping the side of my car, and I hear clang-clang-thud or something like that when I tap the repaired area, or if a magnet doesn't stick the same way, I don't consider it a proper repair. If it's just a skim coat of body filler to make the surface perfect, it can be a proper repair.
I was a porter in a bump shop in 1970. Most used lead instead of bondo grinding and sanding off the excess. I often wonder how long those guys lived.
That's funny - my dad was a body man back then and had those lead bars laying around the garage. They were soft and fun to play with because you could bend them real easily - even put bite marks in them. Lucky nothing ever happened to me - must not have had enough exposure.
Absolutely spot on, provided there’s no movement/flexing it can last indefinitely. Good prep with long drying periods stops the shrinkage associated with gloss drop and sanding marks reappearing 👍
Thanks Trev - good tips :)
Is this how you do it trev?
Body shops want to do it cheap and fast as possible and do not care about the long term. But epoxy seals the moisture out forever.