How to Sand Body Filler / Bondo Straight - From Start to Finish
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- A detailed explanation of how to begin your body work, how to get it straight and how to finish it. Includes tips and tricks that work every time with difficult panels, curves and body lines.
Tools and Supplies:
Small Air Sander/Grinder: www.harborfrei...
Large Electric Sander/Polisher: www.harborfrei...
Grinding Discs: (36 grit) benchmarkabras...
Bondo / Body Filler: Auto Body Master Lightweight Body Filler (Auto Value Stores) $19/gal
10" Sanding Board: (Medium Length One) www.tptools.co...
Masking Tape: 3M Automotive Refinish Tape
Primer: Auto Body Master Lacquer Primer $50/gallon - makes 2 gallons with 1 gallon of lacquer thinner. I use: www.homedepot....
Spray Gun: www.harborfrei...
Metal Spreaders: www.autobodyto... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Your videos are short, sweet and to the point. You also describe what you're doing and why in a very simple way with no fluff. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos!
I appreciate that RRA. You're welcome and glad you like the videos.
I use to use plastic screeds covered with 2 layers tape so I could reuse them. Slap on the filler and strike off the excess. Less sanding. Also for a cheese grater I would use a strip of 36 grit on a long block. Durable blocks work good and you can bend them to the conture you need.
P.s If you have the technique down right.
A 10 hour quarter repair should be done in about 3 hours ready to prime.
What would be the cheapest compressor I could get away with for spraying the primer/paint?
A good size for spraying paint is at least 5.4 scfm at 90 psi / 6.4 scfm at 40 psi 😊
just found your channle a few weeks ago, i am working on a 1969 fairlane and just starting the metal and bodywork, your vids have been very helpful.thanks for sharing your time and knowledge
You're welcome - feel free to ask any question - doesn't have to match the video - I answer them once or twice a day.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for that, here is a question is you can answer it, i cant decide rather to go with a single stage paint as it was from the factory, or go with a newer base/clear. this is not a "restoration" but i do want it to appear factory in its final result. the color is a ford factory chamagne gold, very light metalic with a red oxide primer under, any advice or suggestions? fyi all my painting exp has been with single stage enamels
@@brianb8401 Single stage enamel is great paint - metallic or a solid color. Nason Ful-Cryl is single stage that lays nice and flat and isn't too expensive. There's absolutely nothing wrong with single stage urethane or enamel. If you are used to spraying it - all the better. Remember - all they used for almost the whole 20th century was lacquer and enamel paint and there were plenty of fine paint jobs that lasted for years.
he has some great stuff. Totally legit standard body work practices. you dont need to do some of the guys stuff where they butt weld everything or use some over the top techniques.
@@Mikefngarage I appreciate that Mike :)
I just bondo some dent s and chips , what exact order of what grits of s. Paper ro make everything nice and flush / even ? Thanks great work 😅
You're welcome Gary - here's a couple of vids that may help with that - th-cam.com/video/V5AyJv6i4hg/w-d-xo.html and Steps/Grits - th-cam.com/video/mApSa0l4euQ/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody thanks
Where guys go wrong is they dont remove ALL the paint and use cheap filler. cheap filler requires BARE METAL. to adhere. products like AG47 filler can be applied over e coat or sanded paint as long as it s rough. I have been using that cutting the disc trick for years.
You're right - filler sticks best to bare metal ground clean with a 36 grit fiber resin disk - it'll be there forever.
Hope you’re doing well Jerry
Always good! Kinda crazy when a body work video makes your day in the middle of winter! Lol 😆 I'm that kind of nut!
You and me both! I only wish old hot rods weren't as rare as back in the late seventies and 80's. Here was my dream as a young guy: Have a shop with engines ready to go, kick a%# cars all over with big old fat tires on Centerlines. I wanted a drag strip on my property and a long garage with like 6 doors on it. I was going to pick which car I wanted to drive for the day - all sticks with posi so I could do doughnuts like the guys in high school with the brand new Z28s. Dreams of a youngster :) I'm getting there now though. Enjoy your weekend.
Love your style and grace in teaching been watching over a year now and I've learned SO MUCH... Thank you brother🤙🇺🇸🙏
You're welcome my friend - thanks for the kind words. Feel free to ask any ?s - doesn't have to match the vid - get to them 1-2 times a day. Have a great week Joe :)
Awsome I love the start to finish taking something messed up and making it look new again 👍 great work and deep would like to see the painting 😊
The painting videos are on the way - looking forward to it and driving it. It's a pretty nice car - very roomy inside. Don't know why Ford is not making cars any more. Folks want SUV's I guess - I don't mind a car - smooth as silk, quite, and great on gas.
I used the Bondo fiberglass filler didn't like it said holes 1/2 inch on can I like the regular Bondo better gonna get the professional fast dry Bondo I used foam spray under the Bondo since already got the fiberglass filler on now just gonna put the Bondo professional over it. And will have to use 40 grit sandpaper over it.
Great job ! Have you ever used the Hercules 36 grit ceramic discs on the die grinder instead of the fiber resin discs ? I just picked some up from HF today. They seemed pretty nice
I have not. Let me know how they work for you. Nice talking to you John :)
Awesome 👌
Thanks 🤗
Did you only feather the edges with the 180-220? I'm just trying to figure out if I avoid the rest of the bondo work with those triple digit grits.
Yes only use the DA paper on the edges or the sand scratches in the paint. You can prime over 80 grit scratches in the filler. Once your filler is straight with 80 grit leave it - then DA sand the edges (paint) so you can prime it :)
@@LakesideAutobodyThanks, I've been sanding down my final skim coats with an 80- all the way to 400 grit before priming. I'm glad I no longer have to waste the time and effort. lol
@@dinotom4789 That's good to hear Dino - like you're doing - it's faster to step down from course grit to fine - a lot less work and paper waste
what’s 👋🏻
I
Hey
You're a master Jerry - make it looks so easy. Takes me forever to get the panel nice and flat ... and longer if there are body lines like that!
Thanks - that's nice of you to say. Enjoy the weekend :)
Awesome Friends;Parents/Teachers.?😊
I joined your channel a mo or so ago. I think you are one of the best teachers/instructors in body repair on you tube. Both you and fitzee emphasize the body line and how to keep them. It’s helpful to watch the process.
You explained everything well sir how to do things the right way, you're a bad man in a good way with those tools in your hand.
Thanks Tony - feel free to ask any ?s you have on any video - I answer comments 1-2 times a day. Jerry
Leonardo Da Vinci would be proud . Nice one
Thanks Al - have a good weekend :)
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Good video..right on time..
Thanks - I try to get one on every week - have a good weekend - enjoy the Super Bowl! Always remember I'm the same age as the Super Bowl :)
I would of like to see u palm sanded the lines more with the 220 grit 28:15
It was excellent . I learned a lot.. Thank you very much.
Glad you enjoyed it Mahmood - have a great weekend :)
Love your channel...The way you explain your procedures it really makes it easy to learn..Thank you!!
You are so welcome - glad you appreciate the channel. Thanks for watching :)
I have rewatched this video a few times during my hood painting project. I have a hood that stripped to bare metal, Hammered out the dings, used very little filler, and painted it with epoxy primer. It looks like there are a few imperfections that i need to fix. Can i spray High Build primer over the epoxy and sand it smooth, and then put a seal coat over that, then paint?
Yes - sorry about the late reply - sometimes I don't get the message or notification.
Masking tape 😆 wouldn't prevent scratch on tailgate. Lift it open instead.
That's a great idea. Lift it up, so you get dirt debris scratches and paint all over the interior.🤣
Thanks for the vid , really helped me getting over the fear of doing bodywork on my starion!
You're welcome - glad it helped out :)
Man some haters in the comments this time Lol I like all ur work I use to work with old body guys they all most retired now. They said the trade changed to many college guys with no tools in the office telling them about time frame plus stuff gets totaled was to easy these days! I was never a real body man just do my own stuff but trying to start over still
That's great to hear - I'll be here if you have any questions - ask anything on any video - Thanks for the support :)
Excuse me?
I am fresh off the airplane and was wondering; When you are/or at sanding \ grinding the FillerMix:" I was feeling and thinking, that you were concentrating(?) About your Colourful uniformity with your epoxy and hardening mixtures?😢😊❤😅
👍😊
Love this video well explained keep up the good work you do I love these kind of videos stay safe Jerry
Thanks 👍 - Enjoy the super bowl if you watch it :)
Nice job thanks for teaching us personally I appreciate it
Thanks Carlos - that's always nice to hear :)
Hi Jerry, thanks for another excellent demonstration. With multiple body lines converging like that, it can be frustrating to get them all straight, but your tape method works really well for me! You ever wonder if anyone has transitioned from an autobody guy to a full blown clay sculptor? :) Have a great weekend man!
My dad went from a body man to a wood model maker - they made dash boards, plastic trim and all that stuff out of wood first - before production. Two halves I guess - the female and male or something like that. Those guys were super talented and never got any credit. Anything plastic back in the old days I think had to have someone make it out of wood or clay first. Like clay model makers in the car industry - very talented people but never got any credit for what great artists they were. Those pieces should be in an art gallery (the wood molds) somewhere :)
I'm struggling to figure out how you connected a sanding pad to your die grinder. I can't find anything that is in the 5" range. If you could shed any light that would be great. Thanks!!
The die grinder uses these - www.harborfreight.com/3-in-x-116-in-x-38-in-metal-cut-off-wheels-10-pack-61354.html?_br_psugg_q=cut+off+wheels and the DA sander has the 5" pad :) Ask more questions if that doesn't help :)
@@LakesideAutobody Hmmm...so in this video at 1:25 you have a die grinder with a sanding pad and disc attached. Looks like a 5 inch. The link you sent me goes to cut off wheels...
@@designsinorbit OK now I got you. Thanks for the time in the video. Here's that tool (a must have tool for sure) - www.autotoolworld.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tools-222S-Sander_p_126571.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA_P6dBhD1ARIsAAGI7HDrYVWf-mRAbYkxSTVgZPnb5xY9ct9Z_HGFI6Py1oSG1NbrgQziHO8aApjpEALw_wcB It comes with everything you need except for the fiber resin discs which I cut down from larger ones after they get a bit used on the edge. Just keep cutting them down and using a smaller backing pad each time the disc gets worn on the edge. Here's where I get the resin discs - benchmarkabrasives.com/collections/aluminum-oxide-resin-fiber-discs/products/7-x-7-8-aluminum-oxide-resin-fiber-disc-25-pac?variant=31411319372 I get the 36 grit ones 👍 Ask more ?s if needed :) BTW I use a full size grinder when the disc is full size - like this one - www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-7-in-variable-speed-polishersander-64807.html?_br_psugg_q=buffer+polisher Using a different backing pad -something like this - www.harborfreight.com/7-in-backing-pad-60312.html
@@LakesideAutobody You are awesome!! Thank you so much! Really appreciate it.
Ya know, a video about the tools used to grind and sand would be a good bet for views. :)
I use less hardener than you did in this video and mine turns to cottage cheese before I can apply all the filler. What’s your secret?
Temperature in the shop is a pretty big factor. Maybe it's hotter where you live. If it's 80+ you have to really cut down. I do work sort of fast though - don't spend too much time mixing and don't waste time spreading. Once you start mixing the clock starts ⌛
I have a big question I cannot seem to get answered. How long can rage Ultra stay over epoxy that is not primed during a restoration? Let me add that the car is inside the garage all the time but now that summertime is coming the humidity may be increased
The truth is... as long as you want. With epoxy primer underneath, you have noting to worry about. We're in Michigan so it's probably medium humidity - maybe other states may be diff. Here's a video on that topic - th-cam.com/video/zGHxBr_LpzM/w-d-xo.html This was left outside without epoxy under the filler :)
Correct me if im wrong but i thought when sanding down body filler you're supposed to start with 80 grit then 180 then 220 or 240 then finish with 320 or 400 grit depending on type of paint
Normally body shops will rough sand filler with 36-40 grit, then finish with 80, DA sand the surrounding area with 120, further out with 220-240 then prime with primer surfacer. The mistake that a lot of guys make is starting with too fine of paper, pressing too hard and ending up with a mound of bondo that's not going down. Cut through first then go as fine as you want - prime. Hope that makes sense :)
Great content and narration you have a good skill set and demonstrate it very well
Thanks Anthony - glad you appreciate the video. Have a great end of the week :)
Another great video Jerry and those body lines look good!!!
Thanks UPK :)
30 years ago or so i worked in a body shop as a kid.
After the body filler was sanded my boss when over it with a red or clay colored real creamy like product. Does this primer now doing that job?
Primer surfacer is somewhat of a filler yes but the stuff he was using was probably glazing putty. There were different brands and it was red & creamy. They still make it - here's one brand - Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty - www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY/ref=asc_df_B0002JM8PY/?
Those were the days " I remember having to do some of those curved and contoured areas and just take one of those mixing sticks and wrap it piece 80 grid flexed just enough to knock it all down evenly I like that you showed the feathering always hated cars that had 10 coats of paint on it all the mill you had a feather out I'm packing out the speed bumps after you were knocking down to work I like how you stretch the metal with the torch what about the time that I'm putting on the first coat of primer which is usually a high build since I'll be putting on a second coat I'll usually take a can of black spray bomb and lightly dust for a geicoat when I block it out with 80 also when I was using on some of the curved and contoured body lines and some of the cars actual piece of PVC 1/2 in and a piece of 3/4 beveled on the edges and just use a piece of da paper 80 to knock it down and 220 to take out some of the 80 scratches but depending on the cars whether or custom cars classic cars or just your run of the mill auction wholesale cars which was fun because you'd be slinging mud on five cars and by the time you got mud on the fifth card the first one was dry so you're knocking down mud and it never ending battle chasing your tail sanding with one hand and eating your lunch and your sandwich with the other oh goody great video though love the work love to see other guys doing body work always always love to learn cuz you never stop learning unless you know it all and if you're a know it all you'll never learn anything
The foam sanding blocks work well too soft enough for all the contours, in about all the spreaders the metal the plastic I like to use the actual rubbery ones it's more of a rubber opposed to the plastic ones that come with the body filler they really seem to get in all the nooks and crannies cuz they float over the contour really nice
Green finishing puddy " for last minute imperfections, never the red nitro puddy that shrinks, fun fun taping up trans am decals across the speaking of hoods it's like rear deck lids trunks and hoods usually have the tin can effect where you need to do that each shrink with the torch what was always taught to cross hatch sand as much as possible on the flats , and there's always the body guys speed versus perfection and we always know that some of those guys who speed usually there's cars come back LOL and matching paint codes it's wherever the car was manufactured doing partials with severely faded paints silvers and reds mostly that just can't handle that UV and the best part of all chasing all that sunburned clear coat that you can blow off with an air hose and trying to feather it back till you find a happy medium then hit it with a little lacquer and primer and watch it jump around and feather back oh goodie
Thanks Tom - a body shop is a great environment with some interesting folks to work for and work with! Sounds like you've done a lot of work. How about the fake wood graphics on 70's 80's station wagons - good times :)
Yeah those old station wagons with the wood trim you mean the ones that the guy used to spread mayonnaise on like it was armor all to give it a good shine yeah we know that but always wanted to paint my 68 charger that beautiful B5 blue metallic it was white with white interior and a red metallic RT stripe on the back with just a hint of many flake since it wasn't the original color the original color was a charcoal silver metallic with a black stripe and a black vinyl top before I got the car but had a lot of other projects going on but I did do my 92 mustang Fox body added the saleen wing in the back instead of stupid Love gets racked nobody ever used which also happened to be white with white leather interior convertible white top funny thing about those cars is you can take the antenna off and pull the convertible top back and hit the power door lock on the armrest of the car and be in the car in 30 seconds so you better have an alarm or be prepared to babysit it cuz they will get stolen just that quick, interesting enough there's a 1-in body stripe that goes around the holes car and then the rockers front and both sides they have mustang GT well I peeled off the vinyl and put on that 3M metallic reflective that's really supposed to only be on emergency vehicles shhhh" which swapped out the red for a nice metallic blue and if you looked at the tape real close you can see metal flake in it which was cool but at night with all the lights it really glowed just like when your light says stop sign or any of that red and silver reflective tape a lot of people ask me where I got that tape from and I always used to say ancient Chinese secret so yeah I can remember back in the day oh my Lord back in the day when you pull the dent you drilled a hole and you pulled it with a pool rod or slide hammer and pack The ridges down and worked your metal nowadays they got the little spot welder that you can pull which is way more efficient that water doesn't get in behind that skin coated Bondo or whatever you're slapped in there Anna's body man all know with the snap-on and the Cornwell trucks coming in" we put their kids through college all the tools we bought from them back in the days when sex was safe and hot rods were dangerous well that's only because they didn't have traction control cuz traction control was your right foot , big blocks and blowers got to love them now it's twin turbos and prochargers , what I did squirt the mustang the 92 Fox body that green finishing putty that stands out real nice it's a two-part not like that nitro garbage the red junk don't know what kind of reaction was going on but after we got it out of the paint booth you could see where that putty that green finishing putty would be a yellow stain in the white paint you could vaguely see it just about as much as a ghost flames but at the right angle you definitely could see a A - hole but not from bad body work speed bumps or bad feathering back we're not working that metal ridge ring while you're pulling that dent and just dropping it ever so slightly low rather than high and when you saw pizza coming in at 4:30 you knew you were going to be there for another couple hours every time scratch and squirt scuff monkey supreme who is Earl scheib LOL
Yeah back in the day when I had the charger all I was doing is searching for more and more horsepower that was the mindset and mentality but nowadays I look look back and think should have just restored it to the original condition since it wasn't matching number car instead of running all type of rear end gears put the manual shift valve body in it with shifts so hard you feel like the gas is coming out in your lap cuz it's like shifting clutchless having to upshift and downshift at every stoplight when it's an automatic having solid motor mounts with the gigantic cam with so much lift and duration that your vacuum to open up the headlights was just about next to nothing unless you added a vacuum booster or through it in neutral and revved it up a little bit but the sound of 3 in exhaust with a cross pipe in those two chambered flowmasters gurgling and raising hell just idling at the stoplight well I totally miss those days even though you're getting 10 miles to the gallon if you kept your foot out of it I mean 10 gallons to the mile excuse me when you did put your foot in it those old cars goodbye at the junkyard and all kind of parts Camaros mustangs Malibu's chevelles get a real decent car for about five grand just like gold when it was $14 a gram we all know whose cars are quadrupled in price just like gold has I kick myself in the backside for being so stooooopid" for letting some of my truly Cherry classic hot rods go like a 67 firebird convertible that was painted in that Marina del Rey blue, or Kermit my 70 cuda which had a weird combination actually a straight 6 cylinder with three on the floor clutch carthat got converted to a 344 speed with a total RAM and a high-rise intake that attracted every cop in a 5-mile radius 2750 toilet bowls up top on a roller motor with all billet internals making about 550 horsepower with even bigger cam because I had no back pressure because I had a four-speed put a bigger cam in it oh she was a thumper and Kermit she was lime green sold that car to buy the charger cuz it was more race oriented than a street car especially a daily driver that's why I bought the mustang and of course it got twice the gas mileage
Im no pro here but i do work in a autobody shop and ya 36g on there pip can cars are you crazy? N i didn't see you pull any dints out u just filled like a back yard guy. If u yur going show people how to do stuff pleace show them right way in today time not in 1960s.. If i did what u did id be fired
Your boss would be so happy to see you get this panel straight - that's the truth. When the boss says, "Can you fix it?" and you say, "Yep" He'll never fire you - never. Jerry
No metal glaze or any kind of finishing plastic? Not too worried about primer overspray either huh? I wouldn't take my car to that repair facility
What is metal glaze and what is finishing plastic? If you are cool to others - others are cool to you. That's gone in US today but it used to be the rule amongst men :)
Thanks for the lesson. Came accrossed your channel n vids today n hooked, thus subscribed to yours. Being DIY enthusiast I prefer to do my car's painting my self here n there yet I always failed on the sanding part regardless of how many tries I did, and your vids point to me lots of places I did wrong while giving me some valueable points n technique that I m eager to try.
Thanks again for these valuable lessons n points, keep up producing such good materials n takecare, dear sir.
I'm so glad they helped you out. Thank you for subscribing and watching. You're welcome and feel free to ask any questions you have on any videos. I answer comments 1-2 times a day - Jerry
Love the video.
Thanks Paul - have a good week 🛠
I've always wondered how paint and body work is done? Thanks for the detailed processes provided in the video. Quite amazing😊👍
You're welcome Scooter313 - glad you enjoyed the video. Have a good week :)
Awesome video. Very informative.
The oil can fix was great!
Lov the smell of bondo in the morning. Lol.
Keep up the great work!
And the low cost options are nice too !
Nothing smells better than a body shop - maybe a freshly framed in home or a new car :)
you not into hammer & dolly & file?a dent puller that doesn't make holes.i got same tools as you have even longer scissors thery last forever like past 35 years.
Yep - I've had a lot of these tools since I was 18 - 1984.
So does hitting the high spots with the hammer after bondo, does that not weaken the adherence of bondo in those areas? I've seen other body work guys do it too so I presume its ok.
Great ? B.R. I always have worried about that too but I think since the filler has just been applied it has a bit of flexibility - I've never had an issue doing it - although, I've never really had to whack it down too much. I'm sure if you go too far it will have an effect for sure. If you do notice chipping or a crack, simply dig out the damaged filler. I've had to bust out filler before 'cause I didn't check the tail light fit and that worked for me.
I’m trying to repair addendum which is about 8 inches long on my right front fender I’m so confused what are the steps to do this
Do you have a dent on your fender? You can email me a picture of it and I'll explain the process - schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com - Jerry
Haha! I bought that same exact gun for primer a few weeks ago! Edged a door with clearcoat for the heck of it and it came out beautiful.
Pretty good gun actually :)
applied filler 4 times
you must be jnr level but think your pro
You just told everyone that you never worked in a body shop or wrote a paper in 9 words. Nice job. 😒
Nice job.... keep up the good work
Thanks - I'll have to try some of that "Oh My" clear one day. Looks like it lays nice and flat :)
Over Here;
In Canada:;
We call it Princess Auto!
👍😊
Not supposed to use 36 grit on newer cars. 80 grit maximum!
With respect, sorry but that's not true. Just looking out for those who want to learn and get good at bodywork :)
Good instructions. I've been reluctant to do my own body work specifically sanding or feathering the edges. I guess practice, practice is the ticket.
You can do it. Here's a video on feather edging: th-cam.com/video/H6u13RUJKew/w-d-xo.html Ask any questions you have - I answer all questions once or twice a day :)
What's the point of wiping it clean at the beginning, then turning around and start grinding on the same area.🤦
You don't want to grind dirt, grease, wax, etc. into the work. Get the surface clean, then go to work :)
Why start with wipe it down? don´t you have to to it all over after grinding?
You always wash and wipe down the repair area before starting - that's just what body shops do. It's to clean any grime, grease, wax, etc. off before rubbing it around or grinding it in. You'll continue to blow it off, wipe it, etc. throughout the process as needed :)
Another great video thank you for uploading
You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it :)
Hello Jerry, Patrick here- I have a question regarding removing waves from the very long very "wavy" quarte panel; It currently has 3-4 mils silver metallic paint- I am going to repaint the 70 chevy c-10 pick; should i SAND IT DOWN AND APPLY 3-4 COATS FEATHER FILL G2; BLOCK THAT DOWN TO 320 GRIT- THEN PRIME AND REPAINT?? or do I have to take the paint all the way down to the previous primer- the paint on the C-10 IS A TCP GLOBAL SINGLE STAGE WITH NO CLEARCOAT; SORRY TO BOTHER YOU WITH SUCH A MUNDANE QUESTION JUST WANT TO MAKE MSURE OF WHERE I, M GOING; YOUR ADMIRER, PATRICK.P
Ask anything you need - no problem. If the paint is in good condition you can just DA sand it (your choice of grit) but I would use 220 as it's a bit faster than say 240-320. Once you have that done mask it off and prime it like you said with feather fill or if the waves are not super bad you can use regular primer surfacer and a bit of glazing putty for the bad spots. I would use the long board if it's a big panel and use a guide coat of black spray bomb to help see the low spots. Keep asking questions if you need to - Jerry
Thanks for getting back to me about my project, appreciate the info PATRICK P@@LakesideAutobody
Great video Jerry, you saved a lot of money too. As spring aproaches I am getting ready to start my 84 Chevy K10.
Thanks a bunch for video and product sources.
You're welcome - I drove a "77 Chevy Scottsdale for years - never quit. The K10's are great looking trucks - too bad they didn't sell those new right now. Feel free to ask any question - doesn't have to match the video. I answer 1 or 2 times a day :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks a lot Jerry i would appreciate that.
I have a some what crinkled dent in the rear fender of my 18 civic Si and I wanted to body fill it but I’m not sure if I have to pull the dent out a bit more the deepest dent is about 3/8 of an inch deep is that too deep for body fill? I bought a stud welder just in case. Also what’s your thoughts on a can of blend #9 for fading the paint line between new and custom paint? Really appreciate any help 🙏
3/8 is not too deep but you will want to make sure you have no high spots i.e. that low area can cause ridges or crowns that end up being high once you start sanding. It's always good to get it as close as possible before filling. I like the #9 for small areas it works well. I think if you are blending huge areas you should end up clearing the whole panel like this - th-cam.com/video/-GHKaJS7RS0/w-d-xo.html You're welcome BTW.
@@LakesideAutobody really can’t thank you enough for your advice your the best
Hate to be a pain but one more little question, I know it probably depends on the type of job but for your go too what do you prefer original body filler or a filler that has fiber glass in it? I bought the original body filler because that seems to be what I see mostly being used but I really trust your recommendation and this being my first body filler to paint job I want to know as much as I can going in. Also where can I buy merch from your shop would love to grab a Tshirt
Plain body filler - don't be fooled by the fancy products. No matter what you are doing - dents, rust, etc. plain body filler will suffice. 💥 - Lakeside Merch - brothersdesignsmi.com/shop-all/ols/categories/lakeside-autobody-apparel
@@LakesideAutobody awesome thank you!!
Should I use sandable primer or regular primer and also if I’m painting white should I use a white primer or a light gray primer? And is a ceramic 40 grit ok because I couldn’t find a fiber resin grit for the electrical sander
Use sandable primer unless you are just going to prime + paint right after. Light grey works great for everything. If the ceramic 40 works for you then great - if not here's were to get the fiber resin ones - benchmarkabrasives.com/collections/aluminum-oxide-resin-fiber-discs
@@LakesideAutobody I was going to sand the primer because I hear you get a better finish that way I wasn’t sure if the sandable primer made the paint finish not as good as regular primer that’s why I was asking
Great video Jerry..lots of great information for us wanting to learn.
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for support. Have a great weekend Gary.
Watching you reminds me of myself, I do same type of work. I'm a journeyman very rewarding finishes
Always appreciate your videos. Very much DIY. Thanks
Glad you like them - thanks for the support.
BTW,you do not need to cut away the disc overhang
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To me is better to fill the entire area instead of doin little by little.
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Great video . Extremely helpful.
Glad it was helpful - thanks for watching :)
Back in the day we would use the torch and then cold water on it.
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I've always heard puting filler on bare metal is a bad idea.
That's absolutely wrong, bad information. The only way to apply filler is to put it over properly prepared metal. Body shops like dealerships, MACCO, privately owned shops never use epoxy primer before filler because of one simple fact - you can't sand the stuff - it gums up the paper. Plus filler doesn't stick to it as well as sharply ground, clean bare metal. Hope that helps :)
tape up the car brother.... that had to be an overspray nightmare.
No worries w/ lacquer primer. The over spray dries to dust w/ in inches. Just blow off and wash the rest of the car after the repair 👍
Was that a flexible backing pad on your air sander? Where could I purchase one? Thank you .Enjoy your weekend
No - I'm embarrassed to say it's the sole of a flip flop from dollar general. Its the only firm type of foam I could find to replace the backing that was torn up on this block. I should buy a new one. The rule of thumb is to keep the backing pad that the block came with. Too soft and it follows the imperfections (highs and lows) too hard and it clogs quickly in certain spots. You can get these blocks from TP Tools the website is listed in the description.
@@LakesideAutobody I'm sorry I meant the pad on the 5 inch air sanding disc
@@johnsutter1497 Sorry, I didn't read it well. The pad on the National Detroit (1st one) is original. The pad on the DA palm sander is also original - great little sander for around 25 bucks - www.amazon.com/Pneumatic-Powered-Random-Orbital-Sander/dp/B008EMZY8Y/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=5%22+palm+sander&qid=1612581077&sr=8-4 Have a good weekend :)
Great thanks
Seriously, thanks for the video. 👍
You're welcome Gary - enjoy the weekend :)
Can you shoot primer surfacer rite over your body work and bear medal or do you have too shoot an epoxy primer first
You can spray primer surfacer right over your body work and metal. Most primer surfacers are DTM (direct to metal). Before 1990 there was no epoxy primer and everything was fine :)
@@LakesideAutobody I did some body work to my quarter panel got it straight now all I have to do is prime it but not sure what to use there is so many options! Should I shoot a primer surfacer or a 2 k primer epoxy primer first then primer surfacer?
I just see this car sitting at a used car lot a year later no accidents one owner
With 80,000 miles, everything works, like new inside and out, fraction of the cost of a new car. will last longer than we are alive. Isn't that what everyone is looking for? ✌
Well done, great vid. I like the tape trick
Thanks 👍 Good to hear from you :)
boy i needed that heat trick 2 days ago
It really does work every time. It's not fancy or pretty but it works and quickly solves a frustrating problem.
Hi, another good video as usual you are watched in Croatia as usual keep doing good work can`t wait for respray
Croatia! That's good to hear. Is it nice in Croatia? How many hours a week do people work?
@@LakesideAutobody Some people who work for government like police,fire brigade,health service they usually work 40 hours ,factories 40-50 ..Self employed like me they work usually more or even less if there is no work like now in winter time.When its summer I work 7 days to finish contracts etc.
But usually is pretty much same like USA in hours I would say ,just money is not same much less here.That job what you just done I would charge around 150 bucks labour and material all toghether...
th-cam.com/video/ig9jf6ALU5o/w-d-xo.html check it out
@@bravarijastrbac9822 Thanks so much for the information - I'll check out the video. Have a great week :) Jerry
What brand sand paper is that it’s not clogging bad
Indasa - it's pretty good - reasonable price too - Ebay :)
Why not just use paint removal to get off the paint then scuff it up with the grinder so the putty will grab. I don’t know much about body work.. just asking questions to learn. Don’t get mad at my stupid questions. Lol.
Another question. Car seems to look black. Why not use black primer instead of grey?? Figured if it was to be scratched deep the black would be better than the grey.. the grey will show right up.
Sorry about the late reply - for some reason I don't always get alerted to replies and have to search for them. You could do that but it's a bit messy and they really don't make good paint stripper anymore. The grinding disc is just the fastest thing to do it with and the filler loves sticking to fresh 36 grit scratches.
You could use black primer if you like but I'm just used to using grey. Back when I worked for my dad we used red and was used to red. I guess it's preference.
Stellar work!
Awsome video thanks lakeside
You're welcome :)
I fixed a car long time ago and i made many little holes on the affected area, so the bondo penetrated tru and hold stronger. any comments?
If it worked and held up for a long time... great. Folks will tell you it's wrong because of the hold left and it may rust or that filler is porous but if your repair is up high on the panel, it will hold up fine. Panels only rust when they can drain and stay dry on the inside - the water, if any, will run right past your repair and sit at the bottom if it can't drain out :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you! It is in a place that is high and not exposed to water. this is florida. no salt.
@@west_park7993 You're welcome - have a good weekend :)
I put a new video today I still have to do more sanding inside sand Bondo too but outside had sanded a lot already wanna take the doors off a headlights in front and back though before I paint on this Chevy Malibu 2008 though but apply sealer first. I got a Bauer cordless lithium sander recently it still didn't last a long time with the highest battery I got at Harbor Freight. It cost about 135 for the battery charger and sander but I have a electric sander and two air sanders too. I sanded outside in the backyard but will be painting inside garage. I remember when first tried to paint I painted in driveway but don't do that nomore close to two years ago too many people walking past live on a corner block and too many fumes in the air. I could paint in backyard though have a wood fence and bushes around it so it's away from people more. It rained before I started sanding though. I rather not take the fenders off my vehicle but it different now than last year because have a truck and a car now but want to paint truck again after car finished. Have a little spots could use self etch primer small spots the paint had peeled after using a rotary polisher this year but after that could sand inside last year I didn't but painting it back to original color it was midnight blue. The car will be midnight purple it was black. But both will be urethane paint Starfire base and had got the 5 Star Extreme Glamour high solids clear I still had regular clear left but this year trying to take my time on these vehicles the paint said sand with 400 grit the Starfire.
Forgot to mention had a small hole in plastic I saw in front too want to solder it back together I have a solder iron got years ago I can tell the Malibu looks more plastic than my GMC Canyon SLE truck.
Did you upload the video to YT?
@@LakesideAutobody Yes I have multiple videos just I don't see a lot of people that view them.
@@zanaga1901 I subbed - I'll be checking in - looking forward to you painting the Chevy - give me a heads up when you upload it :)
What did you finish your body work with?
80 grit - that's very common in body shops. Magazines,TV, internet my say something different.
Possibly really stupid question: Would I be able to attach a disc & sandpaper to my electric screw driver/ drill? Excuse me - I feel like such a typical Girl asking this question!
Yeah they have those
Nice work! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
You're welcome Dave - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody thano’s! You too!
Excellent
Thanks - have a great weekend :)
If I use lacquer primer over my bodywork and prepped old paint, how soon after do I have to apply my single stage paint coat? I may not get to painting the top coat for a few months. My truck will be parked inside my garage all winter. Will this be ok?
That will be fine - now worries at all. You can apply your single stage paint as soon as it dries or wait. I've painted things that have been in lacquer primer for over a year w/o any issues (kept dry).
Love these videos. So helpful. A curved wheel arch leading to a straight lip that slightly inclines towards the tyre (Celica VVTL-i rear arch) is causing me so much grief. But these videos are super helpful.
Great to hear. Feel free to ask ?s if you get stuck :)
What type of primer do i use? Why are there so many different types, and what do each do? Also which one do i use when i am about to paint? Thanks alot! I LOVE your videos, you are my go to if i have any automotive restoration questions
I'll do a video on that soon - for now though you will want to use a primer surfacer. That means it builds or gets thick so you have something to sand. There is Lacquer primer surfacer (the only primer used in the 20th century for every step) - it can still be purchased and works just fine. I like it the best. Urethane primer surfacer is your other choice but some brands you have to use an epoxy primer first before it will stick well. Look for a DTM Urethane primer surfacer - that means direct to metal - skipping the epoxy primer. That's it for now or it will get confusing. Your choices are lacquer primer surfacer or urethane primer surfacer (DTM) or even spray bomb if the area is real small. Ask more ?s if you need - Jerry
IH baby! I am watching your vids to learn how to repair my 69 scout 800. Great concise videos you have. Thank you
Those IH Scouts are real tough looking. I have an IH Farm Hat!
Hey Jerry John from South Australia watching your skills, down here we call Bondi- BOG. See ya
Interesting. I like your icon. I am a real MOPAR nut - my first car was a 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus - 383/Slap Stick - I had a dream of making a monster out of one of those one day. Can't find one now that is affordable - Jerry
Thanks Brianne Murphy.😊
Hooping yours will have peace and success. 😊
Thanks for checking it out Brianne - peace and success to you too my friend 👍😊
I've been doin this for a living for 30 years , and when I first started I didn't really care for it. Now after all these years I have to admit, I've really grown to hate it! 😂
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What grit do you sand the primer with and what is the process of finishing the primer to have it ready for paint?
240-320 (your choice) DA & 320-400 (again what you like) if you are hand sanding :) This vid should help with the rest of the ? - th-cam.com/video/yMJasnobtzA/w-d-xo.html If not ask more ?s 😊
@@LakesideAutobody thank you! I really appreciate your help
Here's another very good video for final prime and sanding - th-cam.com/video/Phd8cvKmapo/w-d-xo.html@@lilfendiiofficialpage
@@LakesideAutobody that video was great answered a few questions I had thank you so much I feel a lot more confident in the repair I’m going to do
Great video I recently got nerves to do my own welding on my 1985 Sunny Nissan b11 but got someone to do the body work, after watching your video the next time I will be doing my own body filling work, thank you
You're welcome - you can do it 👍
As someone new to body work...how deep do you recommend to sand (should you see a bit of metal peeking through the filler?)?
Here's a good vid to help - th-cam.com/video/rv0uB-ZvrFo/w-d-xo.html If you have a high spot showing up (metal) while sanding before your edges "feather in", you want to know that metal down and fill. Basically you sand till your edges taper into the metal (by themselves) don't force it or MAKE the edges feather in. I have a lot of videos on filler - here's a playlist - If you watch a few of them, you'll get the idea quickly - th-cam.com/video/xbzGX4hW9qo/w-d-xo.html
If you need tape to get your lines straight your in the wrong business and you never prime over 80 grit scratches in the bondo you finish everything with 220 like you did the paint feathering
That's funny because those that I worked with that didn't use tape were slow as heck - playing with the filler and using feather fill or burying it in primer to aid them in getting it straight. Never be afraid to use course grit first then move to finer. In a body shop on commission pay it's all about being efficient and fast. Can't play around and still make $. Nice talking to you as always James :)