How to Sand Body Filler / Bondo Straight - From Start to Finish
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.พ. 2021
- A detailed explanation of how to begin your body work, how to get it straight and how to finish it. Includes tips and tricks that work every time with difficult panels, curves and body lines.
Tools and Supplies:
Small Air Sander/Grinder: www.harborfreight.com/5-in-hi...
Large Electric Sander/Polisher: www.harborfreight.com/7-in-10...
Grinding Discs: (36 grit) benchmarkabrasives.com/collec...
Bondo / Body Filler: Auto Body Master Lightweight Body Filler (Auto Value Stores) $19/gal
10" Sanding Board: (Medium Length One) www.tptools.com/Professional-...
Masking Tape: 3M Automotive Refinish Tape
Primer: Auto Body Master Lacquer Primer $50/gallon - makes 2 gallons with 1 gallon of lacquer thinner. I use: www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Str...
Spray Gun: www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-h...
Metal Spreaders: www.autobodytoolmart.com/prod... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Your videos are short, sweet and to the point. You also describe what you're doing and why in a very simple way with no fluff. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos!
I appreciate that RRA. You're welcome and glad you like the videos.
Love your style and grace in teaching been watching over a year now and I've learned SO MUCH... Thank you brother🤙🇺🇸🙏
You're welcome my friend - thanks for the kind words. Feel free to ask any ?s - doesn't have to match the vid - get to them 1-2 times a day. Have a great week Joe :)
After I get some good hands-on time I come back and review your videos. I'm doing a body line now and this helps me a lot. Thank you!
You're welcome - I appreciate your comment RS - have a good week 😊👍🛠✌
I love what you.
I spent 2 years in high school in a. Auto body class.
To this day I remember those days. I became a service manager for Ford and I was in charge of body shop. You bring back as i learned 45yrs ago you rock man
Thanks my friend - that made my day. Glad you appreciate the content - have a great weekend.
Love your channel...The way you explain your procedures it really makes it easy to learn..Thank you!!
You are so welcome - glad you appreciate the channel. Thanks for watching :)
Great no-nonsense, straight to the point video. Thank you for the content and clearing up some questions i had. Too many other videos have several minutes of the guy talking into the camera
I appreciate your comment - thanks Elias :)
Thanks for the lesson. Came accrossed your channel n vids today n hooked, thus subscribed to yours. Being DIY enthusiast I prefer to do my car's painting my self here n there yet I always failed on the sanding part regardless of how many tries I did, and your vids point to me lots of places I did wrong while giving me some valueable points n technique that I m eager to try.
Thanks again for these valuable lessons n points, keep up producing such good materials n takecare, dear sir.
I'm so glad they helped you out. Thank you for subscribing and watching. You're welcome and feel free to ask any questions you have on any videos. I answer comments 1-2 times a day - Jerry
You're a master Jerry - make it looks so easy. Takes me forever to get the panel nice and flat ... and longer if there are body lines like that!
Thanks - that's nice of you to say. Enjoy the weekend :)
Awesome Friends;Parents/Teachers.?😊
just found your channle a few weeks ago, i am working on a 1969 fairlane and just starting the metal and bodywork, your vids have been very helpful.thanks for sharing your time and knowledge
You're welcome - feel free to ask any question - doesn't have to match the video - I answer them once or twice a day.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for that, here is a question is you can answer it, i cant decide rather to go with a single stage paint as it was from the factory, or go with a newer base/clear. this is not a "restoration" but i do want it to appear factory in its final result. the color is a ford factory chamagne gold, very light metalic with a red oxide primer under, any advice or suggestions? fyi all my painting exp has been with single stage enamels
@@brianb8401 Single stage enamel is great paint - metallic or a solid color. Nason Ful-Cryl is single stage that lays nice and flat and isn't too expensive. There's absolutely nothing wrong with single stage urethane or enamel. If you are used to spraying it - all the better. Remember - all they used for almost the whole 20th century was lacquer and enamel paint and there were plenty of fine paint jobs that lasted for years.
he has some great stuff. Totally legit standard body work practices. you dont need to do some of the guys stuff where they butt weld everything or use some over the top techniques.
@@Mikefngarage I appreciate that Mike :)
You explained everything well sir how to do things the right way, you're a bad man in a good way with those tools in your hand.
Thanks Tony - feel free to ask any ?s you have on any video - I answer comments 1-2 times a day. Jerry
Awesome video. Very informative.
The oil can fix was great!
Lov the smell of bondo in the morning. Lol.
Keep up the great work!
And the low cost options are nice too !
Nothing smells better than a body shop - maybe a freshly framed in home or a new car :)
It's so fantastic to watch a PRO at work. So captivating. Did a great job and narrated the entire process! Damn good stuff Lakeside Autobody! SUBCRIBED!
Thanks Rob - I'm glad you enjoyed it. I appreciate the support :)
Great video Jerry, you saved a lot of money too. As spring aproaches I am getting ready to start my 84 Chevy K10.
Thanks a bunch for video and product sources.
You're welcome - I drove a "77 Chevy Scottsdale for years - never quit. The K10's are great looking trucks - too bad they didn't sell those new right now. Feel free to ask any question - doesn't have to match the video. I answer 1 or 2 times a day :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks a lot Jerry i would appreciate that.
Awsome I love the start to finish taking something messed up and making it look new again 👍 great work and deep would like to see the painting 😊
The painting videos are on the way - looking forward to it and driving it. It's a pretty nice car - very roomy inside. Don't know why Ford is not making cars any more. Folks want SUV's I guess - I don't mind a car - smooth as silk, quite, and great on gas.
Great content and narration you have a good skill set and demonstrate it very well
Thanks Anthony - glad you appreciate the video. Have a great end of the week :)
I've always wondered how paint and body work is done? Thanks for the detailed processes provided in the video. Quite amazing😊👍
You're welcome Scooter313 - glad you enjoyed the video. Have a good week :)
Thanks for the vid , really helped me getting over the fear of doing bodywork on my starion!
You're welcome - glad it helped out :)
Always appreciate your videos. Very much DIY. Thanks
Glad you like them - thanks for the support.
As always an excellent to the point video! Thank you for these videos.
You're welcome GK :)
Great video I recently got nerves to do my own welding on my 1985 Sunny Nissan b11 but got someone to do the body work, after watching your video the next time I will be doing my own body filling work, thank you
You're welcome - you can do it 👍
Nice job thanks for teaching us personally I appreciate it
Thanks Carlos - that's always nice to hear :)
Love this video well explained keep up the good work you do I love these kind of videos stay safe Jerry
Thanks 👍 - Enjoy the super bowl if you watch it :)
IH baby! I am watching your vids to learn how to repair my 69 scout 800. Great concise videos you have. Thank you
Those IH Scouts are real tough looking. I have an IH Farm Hat!
Beautiful work
Thanks Vernon - enjoy the rest of the weekend :)
Great video Jerry..lots of great information for us wanting to learn.
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for support. Have a great weekend Gary.
Watching you reminds me of myself, I do same type of work. I'm a journeyman very rewarding finishes
Another great video Jerry and those body lines look good!!!
Thanks UPK :)
It was excellent . I learned a lot.. Thank you very much.
Glad you enjoyed it Mahmood - have a great weekend :)
Great Video... Thanks for Sharing. Always Helpful.
Thanks again David - glad it helped out ✌
Another great video thank you for uploading
You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it :)
Nice work! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
You're welcome Dave - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody thano’s! You too!
Love these videos. So helpful. A curved wheel arch leading to a straight lip that slightly inclines towards the tyre (Celica VVTL-i rear arch) is causing me so much grief. But these videos are super helpful.
Great to hear. Feel free to ask ?s if you get stuck :)
Thanks! Working on my 1959 Apache and I now what I have to do next!
Great to hear - let me know how it goes :)
Good video..right on time..
Thanks - I try to get one on every week - have a good weekend - enjoy the Super Bowl! Always remember I'm the same age as the Super Bowl :)
Stellar work!
nice work bro thanx for sharing your knowledge
You're welcome BB 🔥🛠
Thanks Brianne Murphy.😊
Hooping yours will have peace and success. 😊
Thanks for checking it out Brianne - peace and success to you too my friend 👍😊
Very informative. Thanks!
You're welcome Joe :)
Excellent work Jerry, always learn new tricks watching your videos 👍🏻
Thanks - glad you enjoy them - have a good weekend :)
Very nice video, nice to see that lacquer primer is still useful thats all there was in the 70's then this 2k stuff to rob your bank account came along and the paint stores swear the old stuffs no good. Nice to see someone thats not afraid to stick with the old school way.
A goid gallon of 2k with acrivator is only about $20 more than laquer. Upol high build primer and acrivator $68 out the door.
Seriously, thanks for the video. 👍
You're welcome Gary - enjoy the weekend :)
Deadly Job thumbs up
Thanks Reg :)
I use to use plastic screeds covered with 2 layers tape so I could reuse them. Slap on the filler and strike off the excess. Less sanding. Also for a cheese grater I would use a strip of 36 grit on a long block. Durable blocks work good and you can bend them to the conture you need.
P.s If you have the technique down right.
A 10 hour quarter repair should be done in about 3 hours ready to prime.
Haha! I bought that same exact gun for primer a few weeks ago! Edged a door with clearcoat for the heck of it and it came out beautiful.
Pretty good gun actually :)
Well done, great vid. I like the tape trick
Thanks 👍 Good to hear from you :)
Good instructions. I've been reluctant to do my own body work specifically sanding or feathering the edges. I guess practice, practice is the ticket.
You can do it. Here's a video on feather edging: th-cam.com/video/H6u13RUJKew/w-d-xo.html Ask any questions you have - I answer all questions once or twice a day :)
Nice job.... keep up the good work
Thanks - I'll have to try some of that "Oh My" clear one day. Looks like it lays nice and flat :)
Great thanks
Excellent
Thanks - have a great weekend :)
Awesome job!
Thanks Nicholas - have a good week :)
Awesome 👌
Thanks 🤗
Love the video.
Thanks Paul - have a good week 🛠
well done .thank you
You're welcome David - have a good weekend :)
Awsome video thanks lakeside
You're welcome :)
Hi, another good video as usual you are watched in Croatia as usual keep doing good work can`t wait for respray
Croatia! That's good to hear. Is it nice in Croatia? How many hours a week do people work?
@@LakesideAutobody Some people who work for government like police,fire brigade,health service they usually work 40 hours ,factories 40-50 ..Self employed like me they work usually more or even less if there is no work like now in winter time.When its summer I work 7 days to finish contracts etc.
But usually is pretty much same like USA in hours I would say ,just money is not same much less here.That job what you just done I would charge around 150 bucks labour and material all toghether...
th-cam.com/video/ig9jf6ALU5o/w-d-xo.html check it out
@@bravarijastrbac9822 Thanks so much for the information - I'll check out the video. Have a great week :) Jerry
Hey Jerry John from South Australia watching your skills, down here we call Bondi- BOG. See ya
Interesting. I like your icon. I am a real MOPAR nut - my first car was a 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus - 383/Slap Stick - I had a dream of making a monster out of one of those one day. Can't find one now that is affordable - Jerry
🙏 for video! After watching you I realize that I’m just gonna pay somebody to do this job correctly instead of letting myself destroy the car LOL this is an art.
You're welcome Jack - have a good week :)
Always good! Kinda crazy when a body work video makes your day in the middle of winter! Lol 😆 I'm that kind of nut!
You and me both! I only wish old hot rods weren't as rare as back in the late seventies and 80's. Here was my dream as a young guy: Have a shop with engines ready to go, kick a%# cars all over with big old fat tires on Centerlines. I wanted a drag strip on my property and a long garage with like 6 doors on it. I was going to pick which car I wanted to drive for the day - all sticks with posi so I could do doughnuts like the guys in high school with the brand new Z28s. Dreams of a youngster :) I'm getting there now though. Enjoy your weekend.
Leonardo Da Vinci would be proud . Nice one
Thanks Al - have a good weekend :)
Hello I have learned alot by watching your start to finish videos..my body work has improved a great deal thanks to your videos...thank you
I like hearing stuff like that Chris - thanks for the comment and support :)
Keep sending us your bodywork. Thx
I will - glad to hear there is a demand for it - Jerry
Another entertaining and informative video. Good to see how you converge the body lines.
A question if I may. Can you spray 2pk clear .over laquer paint .???. Thanks AL
You can spray any paint over lacquer primer. As for lacquer paint - you can spray acrylic enamel no problem. We used to clear lacquer with enamel. I have not sprayed urethane over lacquer but I wouldn't be afraid to do it if the lacquer paint was still in good condition and prepped properly. When in doubt try it in an area inside the trunk or something.
boy i needed that heat trick 2 days ago
It really does work every time. It's not fancy or pretty but it works and quickly solves a frustrating problem.
you make me want to use lacquer primer than poly 2k. great job
All primers are great to me. It's just that lacquer primer is much more convenient, inexpensive, doesn't harden in the cup - you can toss the unused portion back in the can, dries fast, sands easy, doesn't shrink if used correctly, not as poisonous, etc.
Ur a beast and I say that in a great respectful way great work 👍
Thanks Eddy - I appreciate the support. Happy Holidays :)
Hi Jerry, thanks for another excellent demonstration. With multiple body lines converging like that, it can be frustrating to get them all straight, but your tape method works really well for me! You ever wonder if anyone has transitioned from an autobody guy to a full blown clay sculptor? :) Have a great weekend man!
My dad went from a body man to a wood model maker - they made dash boards, plastic trim and all that stuff out of wood first - before production. Two halves I guess - the female and male or something like that. Those guys were super talented and never got any credit. Anything plastic back in the old days I think had to have someone make it out of wood or clay first. Like clay model makers in the car industry - very talented people but never got any credit for what great artists they were. Those pieces should be in an art gallery (the wood molds) somewhere :)
Great job ! Have you ever used the Hercules 36 grit ceramic discs on the die grinder instead of the fiber resin discs ? I just picked some up from HF today. They seemed pretty nice
I have not. Let me know how they work for you. Nice talking to you John :)
Hey Jerry. Hope you're staying warm down there. We're freezing up here in Canada.
It's been getting colder lately for sure - good to hear from you - stay warm :)
I'm a cabinet maker learning body work to fix my rotting out truck. I've picked up a lot of tricks. Here's a trick for you. Get a big box fan and place furnace filters on the back where it draws the air in. It will catch a lot of the airborne dust from sanding. Take the filter outside and blow them out and reuse.
Hey! Great idea. It might even catch some over spray from flying around in the neighborhood. I'll give it a try. Do you use the cheap blue ones?
@@LakesideAutobody Just get the cheapest ones you can, and put one in front of the other. The suction from the fan holds them in place. You can get fancy like I did and build a U frame box to slide them in( like on a furnace). You can shake and blow them out as needed. Use masking tape to reinforce the cardboard corners.
@@rayleblanc7209 Good stuff Ray - thanks for the ideas :)
You do some of the best how to videos for sound and video, Any chance I can get you to do some light work on my 1998 Jeep Tj in Roscommon ? Thanks Chris
Thanks Chris - for some reason I'm swamped right now. Email me with what you have - email is listed under the about tab. Enjoy the super bowl if you watch it, Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Jerry, I looked all over your page and couldn't find the email address, mine is sldneck@gmail.com and Go Chiefs, Thanks Chris
Nice Job. I have to ask, with that being a Harbor Freight Gun, what was the air pressure you had it set at? And the fluid tip? Thanks Again.
It came with a 1.4mm which I would think is too small but it dumps some primer - probably because its gravity fed. Air pressure was around 25 psi at the gun - like if you put a gauge right before the air enters the gun.
Great video and demonstration. May I ask why did you not remove the bumper since you were taking the paint all the way to the edge. Wouldn't it have been better to get that edge properly painted.
I like to have everything put together, paint it, unmask, and wash it up. Some put it together afterwards but that can lead to scratches and mess ups with soft paint. Both ways have their advantages. My boss used to make us do it this way and I just got used to it. I guess it's a preference thing or however a boss wants you to do it.
What type of primer do i use? Why are there so many different types, and what do each do? Also which one do i use when i am about to paint? Thanks alot! I LOVE your videos, you are my go to if i have any automotive restoration questions
I'll do a video on that soon - for now though you will want to use a primer surfacer. That means it builds or gets thick so you have something to sand. There is Lacquer primer surfacer (the only primer used in the 20th century for every step) - it can still be purchased and works just fine. I like it the best. Urethane primer surfacer is your other choice but some brands you have to use an epoxy primer first before it will stick well. Look for a DTM Urethane primer surfacer - that means direct to metal - skipping the epoxy primer. That's it for now or it will get confusing. Your choices are lacquer primer surfacer or urethane primer surfacer (DTM) or even spray bomb if the area is real small. Ask more ?s if you need - Jerry
I have rewatched this video a few times during my hood painting project. I have a hood that stripped to bare metal, Hammered out the dings, used very little filler, and painted it with epoxy primer. It looks like there are a few imperfections that i need to fix. Can i spray High Build primer over the epoxy and sand it smooth, and then put a seal coat over that, then paint?
Yes - sorry about the late reply - sometimes I don't get the message or notification.
I just subscribed you have a great way of explaining things. I am learning to do body work and I noticed you put the bondo on bare metal, others have said to prime the bare metal first does it really matter?
Doesn't matter. Putting filler over primer is a new thing, I feel that it sticks way better on freshly ground, clean metal. Go with putting it on bare metal - it's much faster and saves time and $. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Got it thanks Jerry. So I guess this leads to my next question after stripping my car to bare metal and before I start the body work should I use metal prep or something else so it doesn’t flash rust?
Hope you’re doing well Jerry
Man some haters in the comments this time Lol I like all ur work I use to work with old body guys they all most retired now. They said the trade changed to many college guys with no tools in the office telling them about time frame plus stuff gets totaled was to easy these days! I was never a real body man just do my own stuff but trying to start over still
That's great to hear - I'll be here if you have any questions - ask anything on any video - Thanks for the support :)
Got any tricks for getting a roof panel blocked straight? I spent half the day trying to get mine straight before I realized that some of the spots on the roof flex, so instead of sanding the filler, the block is just pushing it down and when I get done I still have a high spot. I replaced the roof skin with the only one I could find at the time, and it has some waves in it. Thanks, Jerry! Your videos have been immensly helpful.
Yes - a bondo hog or DA with super sharp paper and almost no pressure. You may even have to lift up a bit on the tool. If you don't have a bondo hog you can use a DA with a 6" pad. A sanding board can work too but again hardly any pressure - sharp paper is the key so that you don't have to press. Let me know how it goes for you :)
@@LakesideAutobody That was pretty much what I started doing. I popped for 3M red paper on a 6" DA with an interface pad. I started more or less doing what you suggest until it felt more or less level, and shot it with 2k primer surfacer because I had to put everything away. I'll keep at it. Thanks for the reply. I'm doing most of the body work/blocking with 40 gril until I get it close.
Nicely done Bud!!☺
Thanks - good to hear from you as always - have a good weekend :)
I would of like to see u palm sanded the lines more with the 220 grit 28:15
I've been doin this for a living for 30 years , and when I first started I didn't really care for it. Now after all these years I have to admit, I've really grown to hate it! 😂
😂🤣
Really videos I like them best on TH-cam
Thanks Gary :)
Over Here;
In Canada:;
We call it Princess Auto!
👍😊
Question, can one use the heat and cool method to remove oil canning on aluminum body panels? I am working on the hood of a 1959 MGA which is in good shape, but has a dent in the center which oil cans and i would rather not try to fix with body filler, any suggestions?
I really like your videos and have learned a lot of simple ways to get a good job.
Heat shrinking with special hammers and dollies is fruitless in my opinion - this is the only method I found that works every single time. However you are left with a little ding. You could try shrinking with heat alone. Heat it real hot in a quarter size circle and cool with water on a rag. Not sure if that will work but it's worth a try if you want to avoid filler. Let me know what you do - curious if you find anything to solve it w/o filler.
Now I am confused don't u need self itch primer before body filler?
One thumbs up here
Thanks - have a good week end :)
I just bondo some dent s and chips , what exact order of what grits of s. Paper ro make everything nice and flush / even ? Thanks great work 😅
You're welcome Gary - here's a couple of vids that may help with that - th-cam.com/video/V5AyJv6i4hg/w-d-xo.html and Steps/Grits - th-cam.com/video/mApSa0l4euQ/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody thanks
I used the Bondo fiberglass filler didn't like it said holes 1/2 inch on can I like the regular Bondo better gonna get the professional fast dry Bondo I used foam spray under the Bondo since already got the fiberglass filler on now just gonna put the Bondo professional over it. And will have to use 40 grit sandpaper over it.
I have a some what crinkled dent in the rear fender of my 18 civic Si and I wanted to body fill it but I’m not sure if I have to pull the dent out a bit more the deepest dent is about 3/8 of an inch deep is that too deep for body fill? I bought a stud welder just in case. Also what’s your thoughts on a can of blend #9 for fading the paint line between new and custom paint? Really appreciate any help 🙏
3/8 is not too deep but you will want to make sure you have no high spots i.e. that low area can cause ridges or crowns that end up being high once you start sanding. It's always good to get it as close as possible before filling. I like the #9 for small areas it works well. I think if you are blending huge areas you should end up clearing the whole panel like this - th-cam.com/video/-GHKaJS7RS0/w-d-xo.html You're welcome BTW.
@@LakesideAutobody really can’t thank you enough for your advice your the best
What would be the cheapest compressor I could get away with for spraying the primer/paint?
A good size for spraying paint is at least 5.4 scfm at 90 psi / 6.4 scfm at 40 psi 😊
Was that a flexible backing pad on your air sander? Where could I purchase one? Thank you .Enjoy your weekend
No - I'm embarrassed to say it's the sole of a flip flop from dollar general. Its the only firm type of foam I could find to replace the backing that was torn up on this block. I should buy a new one. The rule of thumb is to keep the backing pad that the block came with. Too soft and it follows the imperfections (highs and lows) too hard and it clogs quickly in certain spots. You can get these blocks from TP Tools the website is listed in the description.
@@LakesideAutobody I'm sorry I meant the pad on the 5 inch air sanding disc
@@johnsutter1497 Sorry, I didn't read it well. The pad on the National Detroit (1st one) is original. The pad on the DA palm sander is also original - great little sander for around 25 bucks - www.amazon.com/Pneumatic-Powered-Random-Orbital-Sander/dp/B008EMZY8Y/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=5%22+palm+sander&qid=1612581077&sr=8-4 Have a good weekend :)
So does hitting the high spots with the hammer after bondo, does that not weaken the adherence of bondo in those areas? I've seen other body work guys do it too so I presume its ok.
Great ? B.R. I always have worried about that too but I think since the filler has just been applied it has a bit of flexibility - I've never had an issue doing it - although, I've never really had to whack it down too much. I'm sure if you go too far it will have an effect for sure. If you do notice chipping or a crack, simply dig out the damaged filler. I've had to bust out filler before 'cause I didn't check the tail light fit and that worked for me.
New to body work.is 80 grit paper the final grit on the body filler? Or do you go finer to get rid of scratches?
80 grit final on filler - don't listen to nothing else.
If I use lacquer primer over my bodywork and prepped old paint, how soon after do I have to apply my single stage paint coat? I may not get to painting the top coat for a few months. My truck will be parked inside my garage all winter. Will this be ok?
That will be fine - now worries at all. You can apply your single stage paint as soon as it dries or wait. I've painted things that have been in lacquer primer for over a year w/o any issues (kept dry).
Should I use sandable primer or regular primer and also if I’m painting white should I use a white primer or a light gray primer? And is a ceramic 40 grit ok because I couldn’t find a fiber resin grit for the electrical sander
Use sandable primer unless you are just going to prime + paint right after. Light grey works great for everything. If the ceramic 40 works for you then great - if not here's were to get the fiber resin ones - benchmarkabrasives.com/collections/aluminum-oxide-resin-fiber-discs
@@LakesideAutobody I was going to sand the primer because I hear you get a better finish that way I wasn’t sure if the sandable primer made the paint finish not as good as regular primer that’s why I was asking
As someone new to body work...how deep do you recommend to sand (should you see a bit of metal peeking through the filler?)?
Here's a good vid to help - th-cam.com/video/rv0uB-ZvrFo/w-d-xo.html If you have a high spot showing up (metal) while sanding before your edges "feather in", you want to know that metal down and fill. Basically you sand till your edges taper into the metal (by themselves) don't force it or MAKE the edges feather in. I have a lot of videos on filler - here's a playlist - If you watch a few of them, you'll get the idea quickly - th-cam.com/video/xbzGX4hW9qo/w-d-xo.html
So I have a question.. I've filled and blocked my hood panel 2 or 3 times and am having trouble in one of the corners. I have a high spot that is a couple inches wide and about 5 inches long surrounded by low area. The difference between the high and low in this corner is making it very difficult to fill and block out without immediately hitting metal. Can I apply this heating and tap technique with this high area already surrounded with filler? or would you suggest just floating it out towards the centre of hood with a larger amount of putty? Thanks and have a great day!
Sorry about the late reply - Unfortunately floating it out doesn't cut it. The solution is to tap that guy down then fill. If it pops in and out you'll have to grind some of that filler back heat it and tap it like in the video. Here's another on that process:th-cam.com/video/K5MVVnsERqc/w-d-xo.html
Let me know how it goes and if you have any more ?s - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Heating, tapping and shocking the area worked out great. Thanks Jerry!
Hate to be a pain but one more little question, I know it probably depends on the type of job but for your go too what do you prefer original body filler or a filler that has fiber glass in it? I bought the original body filler because that seems to be what I see mostly being used but I really trust your recommendation and this being my first body filler to paint job I want to know as much as I can going in. Also where can I buy merch from your shop would love to grab a Tshirt
Plain body filler - don't be fooled by the fancy products. No matter what you are doing - dents, rust, etc. plain body filler will suffice. 💥 - Lakeside Merch - brothersdesignsmi.com/shop-all/ols/categories/lakeside-autobody-apparel
@@LakesideAutobody awesome thank you!!
Excuse me?
I am fresh off the airplane and was wondering; When you are/or at sanding \ grinding the FillerMix:" I was feeling and thinking, that you were concentrating(?) About your Colourful uniformity with your epoxy and hardening mixtures?😢😊❤😅
👍😊
30 years ago or so i worked in a body shop as a kid.
After the body filler was sanded my boss when over it with a red or clay colored real creamy like product. Does this primer now doing that job?
Primer surfacer is somewhat of a filler yes but the stuff he was using was probably glazing putty. There were different brands and it was red & creamy. They still make it - here's one brand - Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty - www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY/ref=asc_df_B0002JM8PY/?
Is there a big difference in adding the bondo BEFORE priming? I need to move my half-finished project outside for couple of days. My welds are finished but they need quite a lot of bondo. My plan was to coat everything in epoxy primer so it wont start rusting. do you think there are downsides to that approach?
No - you'll be OK. Myself, I would sand or grind clean the areas again before filler just to be safe. Filler likes to stick to freshly ground or sanded surfaces.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for your help. Greatly appreciated!
@@deeiks12 You're welcome - any time :)
I’m trying to repair addendum which is about 8 inches long on my right front fender I’m so confused what are the steps to do this
Do you have a dent on your fender? You can email me a picture of it and I'll explain the process - schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com - Jerry