Difficult Body Filler Work: Shaping a Wheel Well Arch & Large Areas of "Bondo"
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2021
- Need help with body filler when shaping a wheel well arch or straightening large flat areas? This video shows the process used when body filler is spread from one end of the panel to the other.
Tools and Materials:
Filler - Auto Body Master Lightweight Body FIller
Metal Spreaders: www.jbtools.com/gl-enterprise...
Cheese Grater Blade: www.globalindustrial.com/p/21...
17" Long Sanding Board: www.autobodytoolmart.com/prod...
Yellow Tape: 3M Auto Body Refinishing Tape
9" Sanding Board: AES 9-1/2" Sanding Board - 6074
Primer Surfacer: Evercoat Feather Fill G2 Polyester Primer Surfacer
Spray Gun: Sharpe Finex FX3000 1.8mm Fluid Tip
/ @lakesideautobody - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
great video, my wife was sitting with me, asked if I learned anything, I said nope, but I cant complain, your doing a great job showing others, keep up the good work.
a co-worker from non body job, her dad started showing me the ropes, & was first body man I met as a kid, over 40 years ago, he recently died, & instead of family selling his stuff, they gave me his body tools, but family has 2 mechanics & they got mechanic tools, but truly a blessing to get basically a truck load of body tools from my first mentor. he live across street from my best friend, that is also now deceased.
anyway keep showing others the way with your great videos
Thanks Randy.
I’ve been doing paint and body for 13 yrs and still would love to work under you for a couple yrs.
I'm sure you do just fine but I appreciate that. Have a good weekend :)
U make it look so effortless. I would have went through a can of mud and half a day before i acomplished what u did. Great job yet again.
My boss used to have mud dispensers on the wall - I'd empty that sucker in half a day on some jobs like a 1978 2 door Lincoln Town Car quarter panel that side swiped a tree. Had to make a homemade jumbo spreader out of cardboard! Don't worry about it going through filler. You get better and better as you go. Just keep at it - it's good times anyway.
Good reflex catching that sanding block! Thanks as always for the great video.
That was pretty funny. You're welcome Alan - have a good weekend :)
That tape line really makes nice crisp body lines. Nice demonstration!👍
Amen
I don't know if I'll ever be brave enough to try doing any type of complete bodywork, but I've been watching many of your videos and it's definitely demystified a lot of the process for me. I wouldn't be afraid of trying things with an old work truck now. You're a great teacher, thanks for making these videos.
I say give it a try. You can always ask questions as you go- I answer comments and ?s 1-2 times a day :) Get a cheap truck and give it a whirl :)
Jerry always does a super job. I like the filler videos. Makes it look so easy but I always learn something. Have a great weekend!
Glad you enjoyed it RR - I actually had a small collection of old radios like you fix up - had a whole box that I was finding at garage sales and such - quite a few tube ones. Those old tube ones are real cool :)
Great work,I like the idea of using the tape to get the body lines just right.you are a pro.
Love the tape tip! The crisp line shows as soon as the primer hits it!
That's exactly why I prime in front of people - glad you recognized that. Have a great week RC.
Beautiful work Jerry. Your videos are inspiring.
Thank you very much - glad you like them :)
👍🏻Thanks again for the great tips and tricks for us “want to be body men” Lol.
You make it look easy!!!
Thanks Michael - always good to hear from you. Have a good weekend :)
Great video and great catch on the longboard lol…have a good weekend Jerry
Thanks 👍 - that was funny :)
Wow great video I'm just working on a 91 f150 wheel arches so I really enjoyed your work!
I appreciate that Moparnut. Have a good weekend :)
Great job. Everything was done properly as it should be.
Thanks Rage - I appreciate the support my friend :)
You always make it look easy and it helps I have tried a few things that I have seen you do next year wheel wells on my truck before they get worse
Let me know how your project goes Tim - feel free to always ask ?s. Thanks for the support BTW - Jerry
Jerry another great video, thanks for sharing..
Glad you enjoyed it - you're welcome :)
Good video.....and nice catch!!!
Thanks Dolla 😊
Very nice work my friend
Thanks Tony :)
Very good video I have this very project coming up/-great timing thank,s again, PATRICK.P
You're welcome Patrick - good luck on your project - let me know how it goes :)
Another job done perfectly 👍
Thanks for the support Aly Jan - glad you liked it. Have a good week :)
Looks good Bud!! I still have to do both quarters on my truck!! Not looking forward to that, someone tried jacking the truck up in two spots on one quarter instead of using the frame!!☺
Thanks RK - It'll be a great looking truck when you finish it. Have a great weekend :)
Great video thank you for sharing
You're welcome Bill - have a great week :)
You're Amazing... Great Videos... Great Tips. Thanks for Sharing
You're welcome David - glad you like the videos - have a good week :)
Very nice job man.
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
Good catch! 😄
Thanks 👍
Nice catch at 6:20!
Thanks for the tips. I'm doing similar work in my driveway right now...on a 1992 Ford F250....doing a fender repair panel on the driver side with dual fuel doors. Never as good as yours...lol.
When your bodywork is sub par just bury it with a few coats of thick feather fill primer surfacer and block sand. That was my go to cure when I couldn't get something right. You can always make adjustments with some 2K putty, filler, or simple lacquer type glazing putty.www.amazon.com/Bondo-Brand-Company-651-Glazingspot/dp/B002Q1AHP4/ref=asc_df_B002Q1AHP4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=
Very good man ,
Thanks Rod - have a good end of the week :)
Nice!
Thanks 41 - have a good weekend :)
I wish I had your talent man. I feel even worse about my attempt at this because you make it looks so darn easy
Keep at it my friend - you'll get better and better 💪
Amazing job as always Jerry. You make it look easy and fun. Its not really. Lol. Well the sanding is not fun
It's fun if you don't have too much sanding to do - that's where the grater comes in. Thanks for always supporting the channel PSG - I appreciate it - have a great week :)
Great video. Very informative. I have welded rust repair patches on the bed fenders of my square bod pickup. I am using Evercoat Rage Gold body filler but can’t seem to get it mixed, applied and smooth quick enough before it starts to harden. Could I use less than the recommended amount of hardener from the manufacture to extend working time or would that cause issues later on down the road after the topcoat of primer and paint have been applied?
Absolutely - without any worries at all.. On these super hot days you can use quite a bit less. Try 1/2 the amount and if it hardens too slow try a bit more.
Dude, you are really good at what you do. Maybe it's just camera magic but it came out great!
Not camera magic - just a lot of messing up over the years and finally finding a process that works for me :) Every body man does it a bit different but I found this to be fool proof most of the time. Have a great weekend my friend.
Well whaddoya know? Breakin out the old school Feather Fill on this job. (As we have talked before about it.) Hope your bodywork was to your liking and ya did NOT have to "shoot the high build and hope for better days" on THIS one, Lol.😄 Looks good from here 👍 (the body lines especially etc.) Ya made that job look easy and ya knocked it out fairly quick too. Nice work. Keep em up!
Thanks Jim - I wasn't real sure how it would look once primed so I didn't take a chance and hit it with a few heavy coats of feather fill. I think it'll turn out real nice
I'm restoring that truck' s brother. A 1994 K2500 that started out with that peeling white paint. A lot of new body panels and parts, a lot of time on the rack, and Summit Racing single stage Bright Blue Metallic with urethane clearcoat. Their website says I can mix clearcoat with the paint or just go over the top.
Interesting... which way are you going to go? Might want stick with laying the base then the clear. That way you likely have less issues with the metallic flakes and mottling. Spray your base a bit on the dry side to get those metallic flakes arranged right - like crop dusting. Let it dry for about and hour and spray your clear.
6:10 - Nice catch! :D
You have so much time to work with your body filler. I'm still trying to figure out how much hardener to put in. I've had batches where I didn't put enough and hours later it was still like dough. But often times if I add a lot of hardener it hardens up before I even get it all spread out.
A general rule of thumb is to run a bead of hardener across the diameter of the pile of filler. For example if you have a glob/pile of bondo that's 4" round then run a 4" bead of hardener across it and your good. More for cold weather - less for hot summer days. Hope that helps :)
@@LakesideAutobody that's very helpful. I just started a new job fixing used cars for a large dealership chain that buys and sells used cars. I had a lot of paint prep experience but never did any body work. My trainer suggested that I use a lot of hardener to keep production going. I'll try your rule of thumb and see if it works. I can always work on other cars while I'm waiting for the first one to cure
Looks good bud, i have seen a number of your videos and am learning alot. I plan on fixing up my acura integra that a previous owners girlfriend took a baseball bat to. It runs and drives great but needs a lot of rear quarter panel body work. Is it possible to repair oil canning on a painted surface without sanding?
Good question. Never tried it before but after thinking about it for a few, maybe you could heat it with a blow drier or heat gun real hot but not messing up the paint then cool it quickly with a cold water from the hose or wet rag. It may change the structure of the metal or molecules just enough to cure it. I doubt it but it might be worth a try. Thanks for watching the channel my friend :)
Great video I injoy waching this video can I ask you what would be the cost of this repair be labour and material ?
Thank you Jerry for sharing your skills
You're welcome Husky. It depends a lot on the shop (price). For a dent like that you may get 2-3 hours as a worker. So if a shop gets 80/hr for labor that would be like 240 for the body work. Then you have to include materials and paint time. I never wrote estimates - I was just the worker. Paint jobs weren't cheap though. Have a great weekend Husky.
Thank you Jerry! A true master! One question, If a guy had to cut out a chunk of that wheel well arch due to rust and weld a fabricated patch in, how would you create that body line in the patch panel - the body line that you are taping off at the 7:20 min mark? It happens quite a bit that I need to do this and I can't seem to find a video on that. Thank you!!
Hi C A - nice to hear from you. These videos will explain it: th-cam.com/video/IRgtWiKA7UY/w-d-xo.html - th-cam.com/video/H8SprtjSw4I/w-d-xo.html You basically get as creative and close as you can with a homemade patch - bending it a bit here and there - cutting reliefs to allow the metal to do things that it wont do, etc. Then knock it down and fill it creating the exact body line with filler. Don't listen to the nonsense that filler will crack, shrink, fall out, etc. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Perfect Jerry, thanks! What would be your max thickness for filler?
If you have a perfectly positioned edge or crease already..yes work the two sides separately. However since most situations aren’t perfect like this one is. You have to make that crease and or form it using filler as you do both surfaces. Good job. But relatively and easy repair. I’d call it body 101. Show us some damage that must peoples jaw would drop to the floor. Those are what I want to see you do. A Great job on this one here.
Thanks Rick - you may like this one - th-cam.com/video/xbzGX4hW9qo/w-d-xo.html
well done
Thanks Superglide - got to get over to your channel - been real busy lately :)
@@LakesideAutobody busy is good 👍
IHAD issues with the Ford 1973-79 doing that scooped out I tried PVC pipe but still rough the sanding file doesn't work
what filler are you using. was that Zgrip. Try usc Ag47 if you haven't tried it yet. sands so much faster and easier than most fillers. Shapes really easy. can use finer grit sand paper to shape like Polyester putty and sands easier.
That was Auto Body Master 19/gal. I'll give that USC a try - thanks for that info Mike - have a good weekend :)
Your yellow tape guide has helped me shape wheel wells and other curves much better and easier.
Glad to hear it - it's a game changer for sure :)
Great video Jerry! What is the body filler that you typically use? Loved the guitar riff also!
Thanks my friend - I use the least expensive stuff I can find. Right now that's Auto Body Master Light Weight Filler from a local auto parts store called Auto Value. $19/gal
@@LakesideAutobody What are your thoughts about using a fiberglass filler? I'm no body man but my ex father in law used to do body work and paint and back in the late 80s probably through the 90s he liked using a product called Swiss Glass. He said that it was waterproof and strong but I never got a chance to really work with it.
@@bodeine454 It is water proof and strong but harder to sand so I sort of stay away from it. I do use it in situations like this though: th-cam.com/video/rPTaeH056ng/w-d-xo.html It's good to have around the shop if you feel it can help in certain situations - it's a judgement thing I guess. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Good to know, thanks for the input.
Timely video
Still working on the damaged side of the Mustang. Its come a long way but still havent got that wheel well quite right. That and a bodyline that flows into the door. I'll keep at it until i'm content. Get a little closer each pass...I'll try the cheese grater on the taped area (wheel well) next time see if that helps
When your body work is shaky but you have it close, bury it with a few heavy coats of feather fill - it's like spreading a thin layer of bondo over your work - giving you plenty of material to block sand. Then you can see exactly where you've gone wrong. You can use 2k putty or even lacquer putty to fix any low spots or irregularities. I've been meaning to do a video on that. maybe in a week or two I'll get one out called - "What to do when your body work is just not right"
@@LakesideAutobody it was pretty crunchy behind the door and a bit into the wheel well. I did a Lot of pulling and hammering, did a patch panel, fiberglass filler, ect. I do have a bit of polyester primer so after my next round of sanding tomorrow, i'll hit the 2 problem areas and go from there 👍
@@BearBudgetTurbine Give it a good heavy dose then a super light coat of spray bomb black as a guide coat. Not sure but maybe this video may help a bit - th-cam.com/video/-66tf0tpeqo/w-d-xo.html Let me know how it goes for you.
@@LakesideAutobody I did rewatch that video. I found that I was sanding off too much and wrecking my line, sanding over the tape,ect.. So I carefully taped it up again and really focused on the form and used a lighter hand.
Really watched the tapeline, and this time it turned out good. The wheelwell area has multiple planes and was tricky. But now I've also got that shaping up. Little more sanding, some primer, more sanding and I think I got it. (Finally) So I'm gonna credit your video for helping me get over this little hurdle. Now I've got some reconstructed body lines that I can live with. Pretty important when you put all this time into a car. And I would say critical to the paint job looking right👍👍
@@BearBudgetTurbine I'm proud of you! Nice job sticking with it. One tip is to put the tape down where you have some room to sand the filler - sort of hard to explain on the video but I think I'll really break that down one day. Feel free to always ask questions as you go - I get to them every day :)
Maybe I missed it? Did you change the 36 to a finer grit on the longboard before you primed?
Thank you so much for your tutorial.
You're welcome. Yes I changed to 80 before priming. I hit it with that shorter board w/ 80 grit on it :)
Your supposed to finish it with a 320 before prime
How do you have such long working time? I feel like I always just have seconds, no matter the ratios...
You should have about 3-5 minutes before it starts to stiffen up. Use less and less hardener until it takes TOO long to harden - then start to add more. You'll find the perfect mixture that way :)
what primer you used after blocking the feather fill?
I used lacquer primer surfacer - just 'cause it's cheap and I'm used to it - works fine for me too. You can used any type of primer that you like though over the top of this. Jerry
Jerry,
For priming a small area, could I use a rattle can of filler primer instead of having to clean my paint gun every time? JohnnyR
Yes - you won't have any problems. Just have to find a brand that's cheap and that you like. I'll be honest, I buy the cheap stuff at a Dollar General store usually - just for small bare metal spots, etc.
@@LakesideAutobody Excellent, We have a Dollar General store two miles from the house, I’ll check it out, Thanks Jerry!
One more tip - when you mix up a batch of lacquer primer you can keep it in the cup - lacquer primer doesn't harden in the cup. At a shop I worked at I used to keep a gun filled with primer ready to go at all times. Yes it wasn't a pretty sight but at least I wasn't cleaning a gun all the time. When it didn't spray right I'd remove the air cap and fluid tip - give them a quick cleaning and was ready to go. Just stir the primer around a bit and you're good.
@@LakesideAutobody That’s great to know as I have an old NAPA spray gun that I haven’t used in years and this will be great for a primer gun.
Are u grating it right before it fully hardens?
Yes - just before. Like when you can still stick your finger nail in it a bit. If it loads up the grater then it's too early. If it won't shave anything off it's too late.
QUESTION//; DO YOU THIN YOUR BODY FILLER BEFORE SPREADING/OR WHEN MIXING?? THANKS PJP
I don't but my dad used to and had no issues doing it. He'd use lacquer thinner when he needed a consistency like glazing or spot putty.
@@LakesideAutobody When I watch you apply your body filler is always looks so pliable; maybe I,ll lighten up on the hardner; thank,s buddy, PATRICK 70 CHEVY C-10 BOTH REAR FENDERS"!! STAY SAFE!!!
@@patrickpeterman8736 You stay safe too my friend :)
Do you have a website?
I don't - sorry. But I do have an email - it's listed under the "About" tab on the home page. Jerry
No guide coat needed?
Usually not with filler. Matter of fact I never saw anyone use a guide coat with filler when I worked. Primer yes - filler no.
I just worked 2 days on a very bended door. Still looking awful. My filler was very dense and very hard to sand. Every time i tried to fill the low spots i created new edges impossible to flat out with a bigger sanding tool. I painted the door over that non flat surface. Color doesn't match . Clear has some orange peel. Shttest job in a while. Still seeing this gives me hope.
Excellent! Now you're learning. Happened to me lots of times. Catch the filler early with the cheese grater. Sand with super sharp, new 36 - 40 grit paper. Fill your low spots and hit it with the cheese grater so that you only bring down the "new filler" older filler won't get cheese grated (too hard) thus no edges created. If lots of low spots spread filler over the whole area again - therefore less chances for waves and uneven sanding between old hard filler and new easy to sand filler. Great to hear - keep at it - you'll soon overcome those minor details. Ask tons of ?s - Jerry :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for good advice. I was thinking today. There is a way to make filler softer and easier to spread? Maybe add some oil or something ?
@@user-lj5zw9jx8b What brand of filler do you use? Is it a new can or old and dried up?
@@LakesideAutobody is new. I am in Europe. We have different brands here. I used to work with Motip. Easy to spread and sand but sometimes it cracks without reason. Now i use what I found at body shops but is not easy to sand
@@user-lj5zw9jx8b This is an older video but it shows how to take down any filler no matter how hard it is to sand - fast :) th-cam.com/video/fnfoVf4fKoc/w-d-xo.html
Nice filler job
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
Under the lights of fluorescent
The village body man stoops;
The body man, a mighty man is he,
With large and sinewy hands,
And the muscles of his brawny arms
Are strong as iron bands.
showing off your muscles today.
That's one good poem - you must have done well in your writing classes - big words too "sinewy" - had to look it up!
It's been so hot and muggy - can't remember a time when it was just hot day after day - no break - out comes the tank top.
what state ru at ? want u to do my car😔
I'm in Michigan but right now I've got work lined up through the winter. Not sure why but I've been super busy lately.
Hi
Hey Moparnut - have a good weekend:)
Store Bondo doesn't go on this smooth at all or I'm doing it wrong, lol
If you mix it right and it isn't hardening up on you it should go on pretty smooth no matter what brand - I always use the cheapest I can find 👍
Dude they make flat sureform cheese graters...
I don't like them at all. Not stiff enough and doesn't dig in as well. Thanks for the idea though - have a good weekend :)
It seems like you had alot of work time with the filler you are using, I'm not sure if it's because of the climate,humidity and temp that I live in but where I'm at you only have 1-2 min after mixing to get it all on if your lucky, usually it hardens before you get all the mixed filler on, it's really aggravating and annoying to have to keep mixing over and over again just to body work 1 panel. I have tried numerous fillers from cheap stuff to high end stuff and tried different filler to hardener ratios but nothing seems to help unless it gets very cold outside which is only for 2-3 months of the year.
I have a video on mixing filler coming up so it should really help out. Use less hardener and you'll be fine.
@@LakesideAutobody cool I will check it out when you post it, I think it has something to do with the intense florida heat and humidity i live in, even with very little hardener you only get 2 min max to apply the mixed filler but when the temp drops below around 40-50 degrees outside it seems to give a bit more work time.
@@briang4470 Glad to hear someone has that problem here in Fl. Can't believe how little hardner I use and it still pops before I can apply it all, and it all isn't that much. Not near the amount Jerry has mixed up.
@@lschneider6109 yep, all the other local amateur and professional body men I have talked too all agree that it's just the temp and humidity. The stuff turns rock hard before it's all on but around winter time when its below 40 degrees the amount of work time increases significantly and isnt too bad to work with but it's only cold for 2-3 months of the year and usually wont be doing body work during those months lol.
Animal 😂
Where's your all important respirator????!!!! 😲😲😲😲😲😲😲 and the 20 minute seminar about using one?
I usually have it on - must have been talking or forgot. Thanks for that my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody I was being sarcastic and was really thanking you for not going on for 20 minutes telling us what we already know.
@@stevieb9104 Cool - thanks again though and you're welcome. I get some crazy negative comments now and again so I'm never know what's a joke and what's not. Appreciate your humor Sevie B 😁