Hi Fellas, just a quick word about this video and the title used. When you watch the full video you'll learn some tricks along the way that will greatly help you if you don't have a paint booth. This video was filmed in a paint booth but the methods and expert tips explained in this video are geared toward those that might be spraying in their garage. Make sure you watch the full video before posting a comment.
@@joey.g go back and watch my video “what sandpaper do I choose” I did a full explanation. If you’re new to the channel then perhaps that might be why you are confused.
Hey Brian I commented a couple months ago about being 19 and running my own small shop and told you how much you’ve helped me. As of yesterday I got a job offer from my local Chrysler dealership to be the head painter at age 20 I swear I’ve learned more from you than any class I took thank you so much Brian because of what you’ve taught me just over TH-cam I’m moving up in the world thank you
Talent has no age. You got 20 solid years ahead of you before painting starts to tell your body to slow down. If your making flat rate you can easily make 6 figures. I done it in the 90s. Takes a toll on you tho. In a volume shop its all about the color match. Get that down and you will see less then 5 cars come back on ya per year. You will become legendary in your community for quality. Good luck!
@@careykuhn9174 your exactly right there. I've painted and done collision and mechanic work since high school but being 42 now my back and knees are wrecked to the point where I had to stop doing body work and painting completely and I have to becareful on what mechanic jobs I do. It sucks having all the knowledge from 25 years of experience and my body has stopped me from doing what I love. Having to start over and find a new line of work at this point in life is not what I ever thought I'd have to do and it's no fun. So to young man who originally commented, dont take it for granted and make the most out every opportunity.
As a pool contractor I had client who was an mechanical engineer that I did some emergency repairs for . He was so grateful for what I did after a generous payment for service he asked me if he could do something else for me. I noticed he had a stunning black pantera in his garage. I commented how beautiful the paint work was. He told me he had painted it himself in his driveway on a calm day with a 50 year old binks gun and a joke of a compressor. I had him paint my 1960 Gibson Sg electric guitar . I have never seen a guitar of any price that beautiful
I appreciate the fact that he didn't interrupt the flow of paint the moment he pressed the trigger of the paint gun. A few years ago I was at a garage of an old friend of dad's, who had been doing car paint jobs for over 40 years, and he was telling a youngster who had just started working for him and he was doing some practice, that the trick to a perfect layer is to not stop pressing the trigger
The trigger habit is burned into my memory. LOL. I learned from a pro to come off the panel, let go, move up, trigger, then back onto the panel. This saves a bit of paint which can add up. So far, my finishes have been showroom quality and any major issues I've had can be traced to either the paint or surface prep itself or incorrect settings on the gun. Those are the things that have taken me 25 years (as a hobbyist) to get down. I will try this full-trigger technique next time however.
I have been painting for 40 plus years. I never took a class for paint or body. I have worked for a couple of body shops that did high-end work and learned by example. Brian is right one with his advice. His blend techniques and clear application videos have been very helpful for me to get grat turnouts. Especially with the tri coats. Brian is the best teacher . He is very good at explaining exactly what he intens to do. His best advise is that when you prep or paint, you are in control of your turnout. Just relax, follow your plan of attack, and focus on your application. I painted show winning 64 Chevy on a dirt floor garage. Controlling your inviroment is everything when spraying your project. Thanks! From Tom in Wisconsin.
I've been working in IT all my life; I'm a network specialist in an American corporation, but I live in Poland. At the age of 49, I became interested in painting (it runs in the family - my grandparents had an automotive paint shop with a oven room to dry car's ). It started innocently; I have a motorcycle - I decided to do it myself. Currently, I have a Wacom Eo Carbonio 190 1.2 spray gun - and painting brings me a lot of joy, allowing me to unwind after work in IT with clients. I didn't realize how much satisfaction and pleasure this profession brings. Do you think 49 years is too late to learn this? With age, I have more humility, patience, and precision - which are desirable here. Thanks for the videos - I enjoy watching them.
Spot on. ive been in it for 30 years. ive always nibbed before my last coat. Listen to what hes saying people about the nibbing of metallic. its fine to do. just make sure your covered on the final coat. some silvers are very sensitive . also. even if you dont have a block. ive many times simply halved a sheet of 1000 . got down and scanned the reflection for individual dirt nibs and lightly brushed them instead of blocking over everything. another good practice is to soak your paper in water prehand. then pat them dry leaving them less rigid . sometimes a hard edge can cut deeper than the grit intended. Great Video and well instructed.
I paint motorcycles. For my last Harley, I built a 6 foot high painting booth in my backyard on the grass using one inch PVC pipe and heavy plastic drop cloths. So easy to do, easy to use, easy to clean up. Couple that with these tips and you are good to go.
I have a Miata I want to repaint but no booth or garage. The pipe and plastic sheet idea is exactly what I’ve planned to do. Even on a small scale, because I plan to paint in sections.
Brian covered this topic flawlessly. Always a good idea to use some rattle can etch primer or UV primer on cut throughs. Basecoat does not adhere to bare metal very well. Ill add a few more tips. If your painting an overall and have a few new panels and or bumpers along with some repair work...I would seal complete, let it tack, put 2 coats color let it flash, then light wet sand complete...wiping dry as you go. Use the same flex pad as Brian does here and make sure keep your fingers closed together and not much pressure. Wet sanding does take longer but prevents paper clogging and does a better job at leveling the color. Too much pressure on the pad will leave finger impressions in you color. For a trophy winning job...after sanding and cleaning, lay down 3-5 more coats of color inspecting and lightly nibbing in between. Color does not add much film build especially if using water base. At a microscopic level you can see how the droplets from multiple coats overlap each other as the color flows out and flashes leaving a perfectly level surface to clear. Flash time is ultra important in this type of job so know your metal temp and use the correct reducer for the job. When you clear use a high quality clear and a gun with the highest transfer efficiency you can get your hands on. Again for trophy winning final job lay down 6 coats clear doubling flash between each consecutive coat. Correct gun setup and technique will lay the clear out slick but the real objective here is getting the material on the project without overapplying anywhere. All catalyzed products shrink as they dry...so no matter how Lazer straight your bodywork is and how well the rest of the steps were done to create the straightest panel possible, urethane clear coat shrink will cause wave (light refraction) in the final finish. So get the clear on the project let it dry and shrink over the next few days or week then block sand starting at 800 working through the grits all the way through the trizac 3000 and 5000. Be familiar with the characteristics of the clear your using. Some clears like ceramic clear is better to cut and buff sooner than later. But most of your high quality clears can wait a day or 3 for complete shrink before cut. If you cut before clear is done shrinking you just wasted alot of time. All of these extra steps do not apply to everyday collision repair work.
I'm a noob.. whats "nibbing" "flashes" and "flash time"? You said "at a microscopic level you can how the droplets from multiple coats overlap each other as the color flows out and flashes leaving a perfectly level surface to clear" So does this mean the droplets never disappear when the other coats are applied over them, and that this flashing levels the droplets.. that they can still be seen but will be come level? If this is what you mean.. does this also mean one doesnt need to sand the droplets or sand them too much that the extra coats will smooth them out?
@James of all things laugh all you want brother. Several top names in the custom industry use this method. Charlie Hutton comes to mind.Double your flash time between each consecutive coat. Urethane based products always shrink and cause light refraction wave in the final dried product so the concept is to get all the material on there in one sitting...knowing that you have to let it fully cure before cutting to buff anyway. Start with 600 wet block and block it out just like Bodywork. Work out to at least 3000 before starting the polishing process. Other methods work such as lay down 3 coats at a time then block, then wrap up and put 3 more, then block and polish but this takes far longer, cost more and has the potential for an inferior final finish due to the base layer of clear and your 2nd layer of clear drying at different rates. If you like what your doing and it works for you, then keep doing it. I personally like more efficient methods that yield higher quality finishes.
@jesusiscoming.readthegospe9184 God's gay. What does he have to do with painting? I know gods urr Co pilot while driving does he hold urr hose while u spray paint? Go share on a religious video.
I was taught to wipe in one direction, otherwise the rag is dragging dirt in both directions and leaving it behind. Go in the same direction while overlapping and you get all the dust and dirt. Beautiful work!
Keep in mind for anyone painting their car, there's certain base coats out there that will have adhesion problems with the clear if you do sand it. So make sure you are using a basecoat that allows sanding.
Don’t agree, the next coat of the same product will blend with the first, once dry the same resins in the base are in the clear, they call it Marrying. It’s the Resins that come to the surface once dry that gives you adhesion. 1000gr is best, 800 can leave scratches you won’t see until clears applied.
First time watching one of your videos! I have been painting 40 years and never tried this but it makes sense! I am a firm believer in wanting to have as little finish work as possible after the clear is dry. I have to try this trick! I have learned many tricks of the trade over 40 years but this one is new to me! Thanks for the video and I will be watching more of yours. You do a very good job making your videos and expalining what is being done without unrelated crap and staying on point. I not only paint vehicles but was a professional photographer. From one pro to another...GREAT JOB!
surprise to here, I also painted for 47 years and learned that in the first year of professionally painting, but with lacquer, and outdoors, otherwise I'd have a shit load of dust after the first 5 coats of color, # 6 was after the scuff, then after was the 50, 50, half clear half color, then one third paint, 2/3 clear for another coat, then no paint just clear for 3 more coats. then I had enough to sand any imperfections and buff/polish. It looks good on metallic's it gives its depth. like reading the 40Wats label in the neon light overhead type of depth.
I do it the same way Brian, kind of discovered it by accident. I use to do base and clear in one day and base intercoat and clear until one day I did base and got tired, came back 3 days later, went over it with fine grit, put a coat of base back on and noticed at the end it did infact look better
I clicked on this one real quick my guy. I'm looking to do this next year. No booth, no garage. Plan on building a makeshift tent just to spray my 95 Mustang GT. 👍🍻
Do it man - that's what I did last year. PVC pipes and plastic sheeting, fan at one end and filters at the other for positive pressure, looked ridiculous but worked great!
or buy yourself a couple 12ft easy ups put harbor freight drop cloths around it works great. Or a blow up spray booth off amazon just a bit more money. works great but still get some dust.
When i was 12 my dad I painted our 75 chevy 4x4 pickup on the side of the house. We made a lean to tent of the side if the house with 2x4s and heavy mil plastic it worked great
Man I wanna do the same learn on my dodge caravan that I bought of my mom ..I fucked that up ...and then move on to my Chevy impala finish on my Bmw....I need this bro... One of us has to come true..good luck..both of can come true too....
With your advise from all ur videos i painted a 2002 fordescape mtallic blue after i put two hoodscoops on it. No its not perfect and i never painted a car before but it turned out really well and ive gotten quite a few compliments and i owe it all to you brian. U are one awesome teacher and we all appreciate u down here in folkston ga. Okeefenokee swamp.
I'm old and have painted about 100 cars/trucks never with a paint booth.. just clean (blow off) the garage.. and wet the floor before painting.. I kept a couple of old fans near the door and got good results for a non-custom painter.
I used to spray in a "dirty garage"... it's all I had available. I found that if I shot... oh maybe 1/8th of a gun or even a little less into the air in the garage, essentially making the dust in the garage "sticky enough" to stick to the walls, floor and ceiling... then walking away for a few minutes and then coming back in, tacking the car one more time and then painting it... my dirt in the paint jobs completely disappeared!
I don't understand this comment. Shoot some paint into the air like you would an air freshener. Come back 5 minutes later and the dust will be on the walls and ceiling but not on the car? How does that work?
creased masking paper is a gathering place for dust particles, same goes for masking tape and generally the bottom/bottom side of the car , the wheels/break discs, wheelhouses , so preparation is king: no paper creases anywhere, wet your floors, walls if you can, dust off your clothes, sift the paint, move slowly no jerking around, wipe off the gun and hose - basically do what cosmetic surgeons do but multiply it by 100 when it comes to dust avoidance. these are just the basics. also remember: sanding metallic base coat with high flake ratio will result in less brilliant reflections due to te translucent nature of the paint itself
I painted my 68 Ford Torino back in 1980 with Dupont Centari Acrylic Enamel. Solid color, red. I could not find a gold tape strip like the car came with, so I masked off the strip and painted it on using Dupont Gold. All came out very nice, but that was several years ago. We don't drive the car much and it stays inside, so the paint has not faided or chalked at all, but there are spots where there was rust starting to show. I cannot get Dupont Centari now and so I am thinking that maybe I would sand and repaint the entire car after fixing the bad spots again. maybe this time, base coat/clear coat. Can I apply the base coat, wait a day or two and mask off the strip and paint it, pull off the masking around the strips and then clear coat the entire car? Or do I clear coat the base color and after that is dry, mask and paint on the strip on each side or maybe look for a strip tape kits somewhere? I have always loved seeing good paint jobs. Anyone can have something chromed, but not everyone does great paint jobs.
Brian for president!!!!.....Bro you are the hardest working dude i know ...Your vids are award winning and so much appreciated for this nub....Get a cable tv show already!!!.....Cheers
I painted my first car 30 years ago using a "How to Paint Your Hot Rod" book. It suggested Acrylic Lacquer back then for the beginner, but you had to do this very thing and buff it all before clear coat. They made it seem that you couldn't do this with other types of paint to correct mistakes. The tech has come a long way for a beginner to get a great finish.
Lacquer was garbage. Chipped like crazy. It was introduced for small repairs only but then everyone liked it for front ends and sides cause it dried quickly and you could polish and deliver the vehicle the same day. If you didn’t polish through or run into a previous painted panel that would wrinkle all to hell. Used it but hated it as well.
I have a 91 Ef Civic hatch. Built turbo motor. Cars in decent shape. It will def be my forever car. Me and the car are both 30. Never dived into body work. When I get a place with a garage I'm gonna take it down to bare metal and restore it. Videos like this are a huge help thanks man.
Damn, was starting to ask about sanding flake base coat, and you answered my question while I was typing. I just recently found your channel when using duplicolor to paint some fiberglass on my truck. I'm done with the painting but I keep coming back to your videos because you're obviously a master of your craft and I'm always happy to learn from a pro. Thank you for your dedication to sharing your experience and knowledge!
I use to do this way back when I painted in regular garages. I would seal and shoot two coats of base. Let is dry, then wet sand and wipe dive down the next morning. It’s sealed, clean, and simplified. Shoot a couple more base coats and clear. Any dirt nubs Thai get sanded after clear will be the base color and not show up. I did beautiful paint jobs in crappy garages. Cheers. Wyotech 1990
I have DIY'ed 3 or 4 paint jobs, so needless to say that I'm no professional. But I do watch a lot of videos on spraying, and you are by far the best for being thorough and always offering useful tips and tricks. You definitely have act for teaching. Keep it up, my friend!
Good for standard basecoat and non metallics. With 800 you need to put 2 coats on top otherwise sanding marks will be seen. Forget about water base, at least most of them. You can only denib with 2000 and some form of lubrication (silicone remover or water if it is totaly dry). But even that makes the base lay out very oddly depending on the color. But for solid colors yes a very usefull tip
30 years ago I was painting boats on the West Coast. I was using Awl Grip, a pure aliphatic polyester based linear polyureathane. I found it to be the most incredible coating available at the time and I don't believe it has been equalled even today. Most automotive painters could not paint with it and threw their gun against the wall. It was like spraying brake fluid. You needed a lot of patience and practice with that stuff but the end result was more than worth it. The gloss was considerably higher than base clear and all done in just 2 coats not 4-5. You had to be very careful when overlapping doing the sides of a boat or it would sag and run all over the place with runs off the runs. We were even painting stainless with it successfully. Some local truckers painted their rigs with it and reported spending 50% less time washing the rig. Dirt, harbor grime and scum rinses right off clean with a garden hose. Back then the space shuttle was coated with it, a lot of coca cola trucks, the Go Train in Toronto. Awl Grip also had a acrylic line which was used on most Jananese bikes, wave runners, etc (Honda, Kawa, Yamaha). Their primer system was second to none. Yet hardly anyone has even heard of the stuff.
Great tip. I used to have a sandpaper scrooge at one place I worked. He was always complaining that we should use the paper longer before switching it out. Annoyed the heck out of everyone that worked there. The only real thing he had to complain about was how much acetone we were using. Which was because most of the guys working there were taking home gallon jugs of it all the time. Car turned out excellent, nice job!
I have been doing this for over 20 years on my first coat of base. I use 1000 or if I find an area that needs more attention I use 800. It saves time with nib sanding and buffing. Does a great job to help you get the perfect paint job.
Great insights for the DIY guys, much appreciated. One thing I notice with all the pros especially spraying clear is the overlap. It's so much more than "textbook".
First time on the channel. I had a '94 Honda Civic for MANY years. I'd recognize that body style in any paint theme. Knew it as soon as the vid started.
I really love seeing the base coat coming to life with the clear coat, it’s beautiful 🤩 to my eyes 👀 Anyoldwho, i used to be a spray painter in the late 70s early 80s , everything was cellulose clear coat hadn’t been invented,i was lucky 🍀, I was what was called a wet painter, and prided myself with finishes that never needed sanding and polishing, just a coat of wax. Those were the best days of my life and I didn’t realise it. Awesome video man, I’m still learning, even at 65 lol 😂
@@eddieroy1682 o just got an image of a 65 year old man standing in front of an easel, his friend modelling for him on the other side and the artist has a paintbrush in one hand and a pistol in the other
Just the throw away line about prepainting the roof was worth the video. I have never painted a car-been watching these videos though. If there is good demarcation of the roof then I would totally do the roof first and mask it off. It just never occurred to me until you mentioned it.
This method can be used with water base paints. The key rule being allowing appropriate flash/dry time. Some solvents can be troublesome when doing this also. Check your tech sheet and see if adding an activator to your base coat will help with sanding that second coat of color and not have problems. Just a little FYI from an old skool painter.
Thank you for the tips! I am just starting painting... I'm realizing there is a difference between sand paper brands. Sunmight 1500 will cut as fast as Harbor Freight 1200. Thanks for giving us a bit more detail and insight to your reasoning behind your decisions.
Another thing to watch out for on sandpaper is that with alot of the cheap paper you start to see the dust clumping together in spots and not only does it make you go through paper faster it can lead to defects in your work if you arent careful.
Had to jump in and say thanks. Where we live is remote in northern Ontario Canada and my truck to get painted at the closet paint place is $ 18300. I prep the body work. I'm not st how they came to this price but I told them they must be nut's. Thanks to your video ☺️☺️☺️ I'll be doing my truck it's a chev Silverado HD in the next few weeks. Your video gave me the confidence. Where can I send a pic or small video of how watching you has saved my family thousands. Your a rock star. Respect from Beardmore Ontario Canada
Your tips and tricks have helped me out so much. They made me better at body work and paint on my last three home paint jobs. Keep up the great content, thanks Brian. I'm currently flattening clear on my latest 86 mustang convertible project after flow coating. The Kovax green 2000 buflex disks really help get out those straight line 2000 grit wet/ dry scratches before compound.
Back home here we shoot cars in makeshift carport booths and flow coating your base coat before clear is always an good trick!! Also this works well to get smoother finishes with singel stage paints as well!
excellent...this is just what I was looking for. I have a covered garage, but not a true paint booth. Dust is a problem. What I found that helps is to staple plastic sheeting all around ...walls and ceiling...but no matter what...dust is going to find a way into the paint. One of the ways I try to control dust in this sheeted garage is to put a large fan on one side of the garage that creates a negative pressure in the garage and then a simple air conditioning filter in the other side of the garage in a window. Not to create a tornado but a slight air flow. I turn this on for about an hour before I start to do prep and this helps move any dust in the air out of the garage. I also use a hepa filter wet dry vac when I am sanding and doing prep work...the idea is to collect as much dust and dirt as possible and not just let it fall or collect. it's not a perfect system, but it's what I can afford and I've done two old trucks this way with pretty good results. The first time I restored the finish on an older truck, it was open air, outside and the results were horrible. Too difficult to control temperature and dust. So I converted my shop garage as my diy paint booth...much better results. I also found that it helps to use a strong led handheld light while I work to really get a good reflection of light on the body during prep and paint. Every little thing to make the end result a good one.
Another thing you could also do that works really well is spray your base coat, put two coats of inter coat clear, sand it the same way you did in this video then go straight over it with clear coat. It gives it a semi flow coat effect and you can skip the step of going back over it with another coat of color base coat after you sand/denib it.
@@danzo5521 it is where after you clear coat your car you let it sit for a few days, re-sand the clear with 600grit, then put another 2 coats of clear coat on it. Here is a link in one of my videos from my channel where I break it down and show you how to do it. th-cam.com/video/bf_06_um9Iw/w-d-xo.html
You do the same thing with painting cars that I do on painting houses, for a smooth finish on trim with a gloss coat I tend to roll it on really fast and then smooth that out before I hit it with the brush that gives it the really smooth look that some people like. Plus for complex or curved trim I will use the sponge version of a sandpaper because it Contours how I choose and makes the Finish perfect. You fellow freaking Craftsman perfectionist, keep sharing your tips in your videos while I share them with people I run into. Together this world will be a better place.😁
I use this technique on blends that are too close to the next panel. But with finer grit. Let's me blend with as little as 4 inches to the next panel. My blend passes are done up and down and not side to side. On larger blends I use the top of my fan to blend with in an arching motion. You don't get the moteling and halo effect.
Blending vertically instead of horizontal I guess is a European thing. I learned that from a very experienced painter and use this technique on blends as well. Always comes out great!
I used to refunish antique furniture and I sanded between finish coats also. It removes raised grains and minor bubbles from lacquer. Just a quick light sanding amd then wipe all that down.
Howzit Brian. Velesh here from South Africa. Love your channel. Painted my van last month after watching your videos. The one thing I noticed is that you can have the best gun the best spray technique the best air compressor but if u have bad lighting u put yourself at a disadvantage and that was my downfall. Love your channel. Thanks
Painted MANY cars in grandpa's barn with a make shift paint booth made of 2x4's that are older than I am and sheet plastic. stapled to it. There's 2 keys, first wet down the concrete a couple hours before you put the sheet up and second, Here's a tech tip for all of you.... Rubbing Alcohol and a clean cheese cloth, why pay $15 for a can of Prep-sol when a $1 bottle of 91% of Rubbing Alcohol does the same thing. I also use 1 stage paint 99% of the time.
The sanding of basecoat is great for new painters, I've been painting 40 yrs and some painters thought I was crazy, I've been scuffling base since late 80s. While they buff the next day, I'm shipping mine bk to body shop....lol. Since 90s I've always covered the windows of the booth and it really pissed them off. I never asked anyone if you could do this, trial n error in 80s. But nice video. Things are a lil bit different in collision repair, boss wants it yesterday, but while they buff, I'm spraying another 1. Remember, slower is always faster. js
sanding the base before your last coat is almost always not a bad idea. Also after putting down 2 coats of clear wait 24 hours and sand and recoat it. OMG Makes a big difference. Eliminates shrinkage or dieback. I do 2 coats of clear sand with 800 then reclear (some guys call this flow coat.)
Shrinkage doesnt happen because of the clearcoat. Its all stages of paint sinking into the repair. So more clear is only just hiding a dodgy repair and it is more paint to shrink and cause delamination issues down the line due to over application. Best way to elimate shrinkage....isolate the repair and prime it properly. Double prime if you have to. Flows coats are good and give an amazing gloss, but shouldn't be used as a prevention for shrinkage. That issue needs addressed well before the lacquer is mixed. If you use a UHS clear you shouldn't need to flow coat anyway
@@nathancarruthers254 I realize what your saying in theory but experience tells me that the second coat of clear really makes a difference. and whatever shrinkage there is is covered up by that second coat of clear. I have used all sorts of primers. epoxy primer as sealer and still there is some degree of shrinkage. UHS clears. 59% solids and Putting down that flow coat can turn a home job into a full custom show paint job. In theory your right but like I said I have painted in the hundreds somewhere near thousands of cars. Back in the 80s I used to do that with acrylic enamel. We only had 2 primers available. Lacquer and Polyester or the old synthetic primer which Most guys never used. Sanding down your last coat which is sealed, with 400 or 600 then respraying 2 more coats of color or clear. would act as a sealer. Paint seals actually better than primer. So when you put down on set of clear coats and sand that down and do another set. it does nearly the same thing as putting down a good epoxy primer sealer. Lots of ways to skin a cat. and yes your not wrong but this also works.
@@Mikefngarage You to are also right, I'm not saying it doesn't work, I'm just saying it isn't common practice. With today's products on the market, a high build primer with 3 coats will equal anywhere from 100-150 microns depending on gun set up and painter application, whereas application of a uhs clear will only be around 35 to 40 microns being that most modern uhs clears are only 1.5 coat applications. So when you sand that clear coat down and re apply more clear, say another 1.5 coats for example. That's still only 80 microns of total film build with the clear. Products do shrink back and you can tell that from when the primer dries in the pot and shrinks in on itself. I also have painted 1000s of cars and still am to this day. I will occasionally flow coat jobs because as you say, it does turn a standard job into a show job. But if we're flow coating we need to also remember to allow for your first batch of clear to cure properly. So flat it down and leave it to gas out for the allocated time as per the TDS other wise its just going to be under cured clear trapped under more clear. I just think when it comes to educating the younger generation say, we should be telling them what a flow coat is actually for and not what a flow coat can hide?
I am confused about the people who complain about the title being misleading!! Brian never once stated about painting OUTSIDE! Quick to complain but missed the message by a mile! 🤦♂️ Thank you Brian @paintsociety for all the content you put up. It helps your average Joe like me a whole lot! 🙏
Prep work makes all the difference in the finish! I have done complete cars in my drive way with a paint brush and dip can, with nearly the same results , but when “brushing “ on a paint job, attention to detail needs to be complete throughout the job! That means, touch up sanding between coats, tacking off residue, second and third coats, wet sanding color coats smooth, polishing, and letting cure properly before finish polish and sealing! ( and only brush solid colors). Brushing a cars requires 5-10 times the amount of paying attention to details then spraying, because paint only goes where the brush lays it!
It’s v been painting cars for 23 years and I’m always interested in what guys are doing…I like using my orbital for nib sanding with 1000g 3m film, water can be sanded as long as it is totally dry! Looks great man.
Great vid mate, keep em coming! I was wondering if you have considered making a video comparing the differences between single stage and 2 stage solid colour spraying? Preparation, application, hardening etc as well as when and where you would benefit by using either system. I think that would make a great vid, and you are definitely the man to do it. Peace!
When I was a kid before my paint booth my shop was a dust bowl dungeon. To get around the dust issue I would go to my shop at 4-5 am and paint. Usually the air was still and the bugs had gone home. To this day I still like lower light as it seems to be easier to see the paint edge..............
Hey mr Brian thanks so much for the videos. I have learnt a lot from your channel and you are probably the best teacher I have come across on TH-cam Thank you for the effort you put in for us to be a better sprayer. I also want to request that you do a video on spot repair blow in on the back bumper of a car .it will be much appreciated. I have watched a number of videos but it's still not clear and I believe you are gonna explain better
Hello Brian, I've just started watching your videos and you got my attention, you make it very clear on what needs to be done. But I have one question regarding the sanding: I couldn't see if you sprayed a fine metallic paint, so the question is can you sand fine metallic paint as you indicated in your video? Thank you!
This is a perfect presentation style for youtube. It's wonderful to find a video that doesn't have added distracting music playing while someone is speaking. Anyone making videos on youtube should take notes. (there're so many channels that I'd like to watch, but I don't due to the distracting music they play over their voice)
Absolutely best guy, he helped me a ton and I’ll be forever grateful. He help me huge on a Tri coat red blend on a Infiniti. Thanks for the help brother, Matt
My pops has been painting cars about 50 years now. He has long retired to his shop at home where he does about 3 cars a year. He doesn’t have a booth in the shop. He preps the car the night before spraying. The car then sits over night. In the morning he wipes it down, wets the floor, and sprays. No blowing stuff off the day you spray. You have to let the dust settle out of the air. This works for him. The cars sell for big money.
This is a trick I learned from a old timer that was a holdover from his lacquer days.] The other thing he taught me was the key to amazing paint was hard work. Considering he painted 3 Ridler winners back in the 70s early 80s including Bob anzalones t bucket because Bob was still working his day job says something. Funny thing was he got tired of painting cars for guys he hated because they treated people like shit. So when he had his own shop he had the asshole tax and timeline. There were guys he'd tell 10 years and 10 million. One guy got pissed because it's not fast enough and asked about my pos S10 and how a kid could afford it insinuating I had drug money. He was trying to get in front of me but Jim told him my job was free for me and he'd have to wait 😆 After he left he was laughing the whole day........ I worked there from 13 till 18 full time outside of school and up until I left for the Navy and learned a lot about life and a bit of painting.
That sanding final coat truck is what I do when I cover furniture with lacquer. I sand really lightly with 500 and it gives a perfect smooth finish and the final coat will look perfect
Hi Brian, another brilliant job and so informative as usual! Thank you so much for sharing your great skill and I hope you and your family have a great Christmas and prosperous & healthy 2022 🎅🏼
Enjoy the work and content you provide Brian. I do have a question on this particular paint job. I was under the impression that Milano Red was a tri-coat paint job and that the clear had some kind of tint to give it it's final look and finish, or has the paint formula changed? Again, thanks for the content and information you provide.
I can't speak to this color exactly, because I can't remember shooting it, but I can tell you that, for Ford RR (ruby red),the OMNI/Deltron formula is a tri-coat, but the Matrix formula is just base/clear. So, it could have something to do with the paint line he's spraying.
I found you can get a lot better job if you pay a lot of attention to dust from your hose, clothes and paper on the car. All a booth will do is evacuate the overspray. A booth will do nothing for a dirty tack rag, not blowing, tacking, blowing, tacking the car or final tack of hose, suit and gun. Great video!
Long as it is short really, can cause more dirt from were you've flatted it, especially as you say if you have poor extraction and theres no way ever you can do it on a metallic, much better to leave well alone and de-nip later painting for 37 years, and there's a chance of marking the basecoat how ever carful you are even with a bit of f#cked old 1000, can imagine doing it on a silver or a very light gold were the prep has to be spot on? Love ya vids dude.
I just want to comment that this video was very well put together. You didn't waste time with overlong segments and i got a clear picture of what you were showing. Thank you. subscribed
I find the ultra fine scuff pads work even better than those sand paper cloths. It sand more even and doesn't get clogged up which could cause striping.
Back in 1981 I painted my 1968 Ford Torino with Centari Acrylic Enamel. It came out pretty good for a first time car painter. Now, 2024, the car is showing some rust spots that are coming through. I can't get the paint I used before, so I am thinking of painting the entire car again with base coat/ clear coat. In 1981, I could not get the C strip tape to put on the sides, so I painted that on after the first coat dried. That came out very well too. If I repaint with base coat, can I paint on the c strip before doing the clear coat? How much time do I have till I need to put on the clear? How much time do I give the base coat to dry before taping off the c strip to paint on? Your video here was so good. You painted the car with the doors off, hood off and trunk lid off. That was how i painted my car back in 1981 because I did a color change and i didn't know how to get into all the places with the doors, hood and lid on. I had to paint those separately. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
I am a newbie to auto painting and I find your videos very informative. With vids like this, I will be able to maintain my 2005 Merc looking new. Of course, you make it all look so easy but, you're a pro. If I lived in your neck of the woods, you would get all my business.
Usually after I primer repair areas I paint them with one coat of base (Nason base) to make car's overall color uniform and apply one wet coat of reduced nason PANEL clear to seal it ( you save on sealer) . I let it dry/cure day or two, block sand it 800 /1000 grit and then paint whole car with one coat of base (chromabase) and 2 coats of clear and job comes out super clean.
I can't add much to what has already been said. I don't paint cars anymore, I gave that up when there was no more single stage acrylic enamel (I'm in CA). But that's a neat trick that I can use. Thanks from an old and ex painter.
I always learn from your great channel. I am not a professional but I do get professional results with glass smooth finishes right out of the spray gun by practicing and knowing the basics in preparation of surfaces, smoothing the primer, using all compatible high quality materials, and properly setting up my spray gun Including draining my air compressor to get rid of moisture as well. It’s always a school day watching your channel. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, skill and professionalism with all of us.
Great tips here. Correct it in the base for sure. Picking something out of clear is a slippery slope and almost never works out. I have learned a lot of from you bro. Your words , Its just paint, run through my head when I get tense about the paint job outcome. Thanks LittleO
hi sir.aspiring painter here and thankyou so much for your tips,guides and tutorials. i hope i can apply properly what youve taught 😅 cause im only starting with my small place but your tutorials inspired me. thankyou so much sir. a big fan here from the philippines 🇵🇭
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Hi Fellas, just a quick word about this video and the title used. When you watch the full video you'll learn some tricks along the way that will greatly help you if you don't have a paint booth. This video was filmed in a paint booth but the methods and expert tips explained in this video are geared toward those that might be spraying in their garage. Make sure you watch the full video before posting a comment.
What do you mean the k800 cuts at a peep what does that have to do with a 600 your comment is undistinguishable
Are you familiar with the k series ?
@@PaintSociety not yet
@@PaintSociety I know the difference between the grits of material and wet sanded many times before but it's just the comment was confusing
@@joey.g go back and watch my video “what sandpaper do I choose” I did a full explanation. If you’re new to the channel then perhaps that might be why you are confused.
Hey Brian I commented a couple months ago about being 19 and running my own small shop and told you how much you’ve helped me. As of yesterday I got a job offer from my local Chrysler dealership to be the head painter at age 20 I swear I’ve learned more from you than any class I took thank you so much Brian because of what you’ve taught me just over TH-cam I’m moving up in the world thank you
Good on you Jason.
Talent has no age. You got 20 solid years ahead of you before painting starts to tell your body to slow down. If your making flat rate you can easily make 6 figures. I done it in the 90s. Takes a toll on you tho. In a volume shop its all about the color match. Get that down and you will see less then 5 cars come back on ya per year. You will become legendary in your community for quality. Good luck!
Congrats! So awesome to hear that
A bake helps with the finish also.
@@careykuhn9174 your exactly right there. I've painted and done collision and mechanic work since high school but being 42 now my back and knees are wrecked to the point where I had to stop doing body work and painting completely and I have to becareful on what mechanic jobs I do. It sucks having all the knowledge from 25 years of experience and my body has stopped me from doing what I love. Having to start over and find a new line of work at this point in life is not what I ever thought I'd have to do and it's no fun. So to young man who originally commented, dont take it for granted and make the most out every opportunity.
As a pool contractor I had client who was an mechanical engineer that I did some emergency repairs for . He was so grateful for what I did after a generous payment for service he asked me if he could do something else for me. I noticed he had a stunning black pantera in his garage. I commented how beautiful the paint work was. He told me he had painted it himself in his driveway on a calm day with a 50 year old binks gun and a joke of a compressor. I had him paint my 1960 Gibson Sg electric guitar . I have never seen a guitar of any price that beautiful
I appreciate the fact that he didn't interrupt the flow of paint the moment he pressed the trigger of the paint gun. A few years ago I was at a garage of an old friend of dad's, who had been doing car paint jobs for over 40 years, and he was telling a youngster who had just started working for him and he was doing some practice, that the trick to a perfect layer is to not stop pressing the trigger
The trigger habit is burned into my memory. LOL. I learned from a pro to come off the panel, let go, move up, trigger, then back onto the panel. This saves a bit of paint which can add up. So far, my finishes have been showroom quality and any major issues I've had can be traced to either the paint or surface prep itself or incorrect settings on the gun. Those are the things that have taken me 25 years (as a hobbyist) to get down. I will try this full-trigger technique next time however.
I'm on an Elcamino project and have gotten in way over my skills. I'll be watching you for the next decade!
I have been painting for 40 plus years. I never took a class for paint or body. I have worked for a couple of body shops that did high-end work and learned by example. Brian is right one with his advice. His blend techniques and clear application videos have been very helpful for me to get grat turnouts. Especially with the tri coats. Brian is the best teacher . He is very good at explaining exactly what he intens to do. His best advise is that when you prep or paint, you are in control of your turnout. Just relax, follow your plan of attack, and focus on your application. I painted show winning 64 Chevy on a dirt floor garage. Controlling your inviroment is everything when spraying your project. Thanks! From Tom in Wisconsin.
Thank you for the advice 👍
Best time to spray is in the early morning with the dew keeping down the dust.
Years and years ago I would sprinkle the floor down as walking around stirs the dust up.
I've been working in IT all my life; I'm a network specialist in an American corporation, but I live in Poland. At the age of 49, I became interested in painting (it runs in the family - my grandparents had an automotive paint shop with a oven room to dry car's ). It started innocently; I have a motorcycle - I decided to do it myself. Currently, I have a Wacom Eo Carbonio 190 1.2 spray gun - and painting brings me a lot of joy, allowing me to unwind after work in IT with clients. I didn't realize how much satisfaction and pleasure this profession brings. Do you think 49 years is too late to learn this? With age, I have more humility, patience, and precision - which are desirable here. Thanks for the videos - I enjoy watching them.
You’re only halfway there bud why stop learning now
You're never too old to learn a new skill
If you’re too old to learn you might as well be dead. Think para Olympic athletes
If painting runs in your family, your family is putting it on too thick. 😂
Spot on. ive been in it for 30 years. ive always nibbed before my last coat. Listen to what hes saying people about the nibbing of metallic. its fine to do. just make sure your covered on the final coat. some silvers are very sensitive . also. even if you dont have a block. ive many times simply halved a sheet of 1000 . got down and scanned the reflection for individual dirt nibs and lightly brushed them instead of blocking over everything. another good practice is to soak your paper in water prehand. then pat them dry leaving them less rigid . sometimes a hard edge can cut deeper than the grit intended. Great Video and well instructed.
Always admire people who know about paint. For many of us, it's a complete mystery.
I paint motorcycles. For my last Harley, I built a 6 foot high painting booth in my backyard on the grass using one inch PVC pipe and heavy plastic drop cloths. So easy to do, easy to use, easy to clean up. Couple that with these tips and you are good to go.
I have a Miata I want to repaint but no booth or garage. The pipe and plastic sheet idea is exactly what I’ve planned to do. Even on a small scale, because I plan to paint in sections.
I found the greatest risk outside is insects. Nothing worse than a big blow fly in the hood.
@@MrjackieG out here in the desert, we only paint in the winter when it is cool out. Few insects that time of the year.
That sounds sweeeet!
Brian covered this topic flawlessly. Always a good idea to use some rattle can etch primer or UV primer on cut throughs. Basecoat does not adhere to bare metal very well. Ill add a few more tips. If your painting an overall and have a few new panels and or bumpers along with some repair work...I would seal complete, let it tack, put 2 coats color let it flash, then light wet sand complete...wiping dry as you go. Use the same flex pad as Brian does here and make sure keep your fingers closed together and not much pressure. Wet sanding does take longer but prevents paper clogging and does a better job at leveling the color. Too much pressure on the pad will leave finger impressions in you color. For a trophy winning job...after sanding and cleaning, lay down 3-5 more coats of color inspecting and lightly nibbing in between. Color does not add much film build especially if using water base. At a microscopic level you can see how the droplets from multiple coats overlap each other as the color flows out and flashes leaving a perfectly level surface to clear. Flash time is ultra important in this type of job so know your metal temp and use the correct reducer for the job. When you clear use a high quality clear and a gun with the highest transfer efficiency you can get your hands on. Again for trophy winning final job lay down 6 coats clear doubling flash between each consecutive coat. Correct gun setup and technique will lay the clear out slick but the real objective here is getting the material on the project without overapplying anywhere. All catalyzed products shrink as they dry...so no matter how Lazer straight your bodywork is and how well the rest of the steps were done to create the straightest panel possible, urethane clear coat shrink will cause wave (light refraction) in the final finish. So get the clear on the project let it dry and shrink over the next few days or week then block sand starting at 800 working through the grits all the way through the trizac 3000 and 5000. Be familiar with the characteristics of the clear your using. Some clears like ceramic clear is better to cut and buff sooner than later. But most of your high quality clears can wait a day or 3 for complete shrink before cut. If you cut before clear is done shrinking you just wasted alot of time. All of these extra steps do not apply to everyday collision repair work.
I'm a noob.. whats "nibbing" "flashes" and "flash time"? You said "at a microscopic level you can how the droplets from multiple coats overlap each other as the color flows out and flashes leaving a perfectly level surface to clear" So does this mean the droplets never disappear when the other coats are applied over them, and that this flashing levels the droplets.. that they can still be seen but will be come level? If this is what you mean.. does this also mean one doesnt need to sand the droplets or sand them too much that the extra coats will smooth them out?
6 coats of clear in one go? LOL
@James of all things laugh all you want brother. Several top names in the custom industry use this method. Charlie Hutton comes to mind.Double your flash time between each consecutive coat. Urethane based products always shrink and cause light refraction wave in the final dried product so the concept is to get all the material on there in one sitting...knowing that you have to let it fully cure before cutting to buff anyway. Start with 600 wet block and block it out just like Bodywork. Work out to at least 3000 before starting the polishing process. Other methods work such as lay down 3 coats at a time then block, then wrap up and put 3 more, then block and polish but this takes far longer, cost more and has the potential for an inferior final finish due to the base layer of clear and your 2nd layer of clear drying at different rates. If you like what your doing and it works for you, then keep doing it. I personally like more efficient methods that yield higher quality finishes.
@jesusiscoming.readthegospe9184 God's gay. What does he have to do with painting? I know gods urr Co pilot while driving does he hold urr hose while u spray paint? Go share on a religious video.
I was taught to wipe in one direction, otherwise the rag is dragging dirt in both directions and leaving it behind. Go in the same direction while overlapping and you get all the dust and dirt. Beautiful work!
Sounds plausible.
Keep in mind for anyone painting their car, there's certain base coats out there that will have adhesion problems with the clear if you do sand it. So make sure you are using a basecoat that allows sanding.
Don’t agree, the next coat of the same product will blend with the first, once dry the same resins in the base are in the clear, they call it Marrying. It’s the Resins that come to the surface once dry that gives you adhesion. 1000gr is best, 800 can leave scratches you won’t see until clears applied.
I don't know ,I've even sprayed clear over just black primer, and it works great.
I was wondering if it dulls metallics??
First time watching one of your videos! I have been painting 40 years and never tried this but it makes sense! I am a firm believer in wanting to have as little finish work as possible after the clear is dry. I have to try this trick! I have learned many tricks of the trade over 40 years but this one is new to me! Thanks for the video and I will be watching more of yours. You do a very good job making your videos and expalining what is being done without unrelated crap and staying on point. I not only paint vehicles but was a professional photographer. From one pro to another...GREAT JOB!
thanks so much! its usually the guys with all your experience that are never open to learning so kuddos to you!
@Johnny Hot Rod Have you tried it yet, you will be surprised at what this does.
surprise to here, I also painted for 47 years and learned that in the first year of professionally painting, but with lacquer, and outdoors, otherwise I'd have a shit load of dust after the first 5 coats of color, # 6 was after the scuff, then after was the 50, 50, half clear half color, then one third paint, 2/3 clear for another coat, then no paint just clear for 3 more coats. then I had enough to sand any imperfections and buff/polish. It looks good on metallic's it gives its depth. like reading the 40Wats label in the neon light overhead type of depth.
@@jeanraymond281that’s depth
Brian took me from spray painting touch up to buying light wrecks and repainting them. This guy is better than u realize, listen to him!
I do it the same way Brian, kind of discovered it by accident. I use to do base and clear in one day and base intercoat and clear until one day I did base and got tired, came back 3 days later, went over it with fine grit, put a coat of base back on and noticed at the end it did infact look better
Great video. I’ve painted many cars as a hobbyist, but seeing the pros do it makes it look far easier than it really is. Patience is number 1!
I clicked on this one real quick my guy. I'm looking to do this next year. No booth, no garage. Plan on building a makeshift tent just to spray my 95 Mustang GT. 👍🍻
Do it man - that's what I did last year. PVC pipes and plastic sheeting, fan at one end and filters at the other for positive pressure, looked ridiculous but worked great!
or buy yourself a couple 12ft easy ups put harbor freight drop cloths around it works great. Or a blow up spray booth off amazon just a bit more money. works great but still get some dust.
@@grimson The pvc/plastic booth is great. I used that method to paint the integra on my channel phoenix yellow
When i was 12 my dad I painted our 75 chevy 4x4 pickup on the side of the house. We made a lean to tent of the side if the house with 2x4s and heavy mil plastic it worked great
Man I wanna do the same learn on my dodge caravan that I bought of my mom ..I fucked that up ...and then move on to my Chevy impala finish on my
Bmw....I need this bro...
One of us has to come true..good luck..both of can come true too....
With your advise from all ur videos i painted a 2002 fordescape mtallic blue after i put two hoodscoops on it. No its not perfect and i never painted a car before but it turned out really well and ive gotten quite a few compliments and i owe it all to you brian. U are one awesome teacher and we all appreciate u down here in folkston ga. Okeefenokee swamp.
I'm old and have painted about 100 cars/trucks never with a paint booth.. just clean (blow off) the garage.. and wet the floor before painting..
I kept a couple of old fans near the door and got good results for a non-custom painter.
Fans blowing in or out? Single stage? I plan doing this in some kind of canopy. Not sure if I want fumes in my attached garage.
I used to spray in a "dirty garage"... it's all I had available. I found that if I shot... oh maybe 1/8th of a gun or even a little less into the air in the garage, essentially making the dust in the garage "sticky enough" to stick to the walls, floor and ceiling... then walking away for a few minutes and then coming back in, tacking the car one more time and then painting it... my dirt in the paint jobs completely disappeared!
I don't understand this comment. Shoot some paint into the air like you would an air freshener. Come back 5 minutes later and the dust will be on the walls and ceiling but not on the car? How does that work?
@@nascentalike he said, it makes the Dust stick to the walls and floor instead of ( hopefully ) on the vehicle you are painting.
@@nascentaafter he sprays paint in the air he comes back and tack cloths the 🚗. It makes perfect sense
creased masking paper is a gathering place for dust particles, same goes for masking tape and generally the bottom/bottom side of the car , the wheels/break discs, wheelhouses , so preparation is king: no paper creases anywhere, wet your floors, walls if you can, dust off your clothes, sift the paint, move slowly no jerking around, wipe off the gun and hose - basically do what cosmetic surgeons do but multiply it by 100 when it comes to dust avoidance. these are just the basics. also remember: sanding metallic base coat with high flake ratio will result in less brilliant reflections due to te translucent nature of the paint itself
I painted my 68 Ford Torino back in 1980 with Dupont Centari Acrylic Enamel. Solid color, red. I could not find a gold tape strip like the car came with, so I masked off the strip and painted it on using Dupont Gold. All came out very nice, but that was several years ago. We don't drive the car much and it stays inside, so the paint has not faided or chalked at all, but there are spots where there was rust starting to show. I cannot get Dupont Centari now and so I am thinking that maybe I would sand and repaint the entire car after fixing the bad spots again. maybe this time, base coat/clear coat. Can I apply the base coat, wait a day or two and mask off the strip and paint it, pull off the masking around the strips and then clear coat the entire car? Or do I clear coat the base color and after that is dry, mask and paint on the strip on each side or maybe look for a strip tape kits somewhere? I have always loved seeing good paint jobs. Anyone can have something chromed, but not everyone does great paint jobs.
Brian for president!!!!.....Bro you are the hardest working dude i know ...Your vids are award winning and so much appreciated for this nub....Get a cable tv show already!!!.....Cheers
I painted my first car 30 years ago using a "How to Paint Your Hot Rod" book. It suggested Acrylic Lacquer back then for the beginner, but you had to do this very thing and buff it all before clear coat. They made it seem that you couldn't do this with other types of paint to correct mistakes. The tech has come a long way for a beginner to get a great finish.
Lacquer was garbage. Chipped like crazy. It was introduced for small repairs only but then everyone liked it for front ends and sides cause it dried quickly and you could polish and deliver the vehicle the same day.
If you didn’t polish through or run into a previous painted panel that would wrinkle all to hell. Used it but hated it as well.
I have a 91 Ef Civic hatch. Built turbo motor. Cars in decent shape. It will def be my forever car. Me and the car are both 30. Never dived into body work. When I get a place with a garage I'm gonna take it down to bare metal and restore it. Videos like this are a huge help thanks man.
Damn, was starting to ask about sanding flake base coat, and you answered my question while I was typing.
I just recently found your channel when using duplicolor to paint some fiberglass on my truck. I'm done with the painting but I keep coming back to your videos because you're obviously a master of your craft and I'm always happy to learn from a pro. Thank you for your dedication to sharing your experience and knowledge!
Thanks ! Good luck with your projects !
I use to do this way back when I painted in regular garages. I would seal and shoot two coats of base. Let is dry, then wet sand and wipe dive down the next morning. It’s sealed, clean, and simplified. Shoot a couple more base coats and clear. Any dirt nubs Thai get sanded after clear will be the base color and not show up. I did beautiful paint jobs in crappy garages. Cheers. Wyotech 1990
Thanks for all the tips 🙏🏽 finally said F it and decided to spray my entire car inside my a garage and it came out pretty dang good!
I have DIY'ed 3 or 4 paint jobs, so needless to say that I'm no professional. But I do watch a lot of videos on spraying, and you are by far the best for being thorough and always offering useful tips and tricks.
You definitely have act for teaching. Keep it up, my friend!
Good for standard basecoat and non metallics. With 800 you need to put 2 coats on top otherwise sanding marks will be seen. Forget about water base, at least most of them. You can only denib with 2000 and some form of lubrication (silicone remover or water if it is totaly dry). But even that makes the base lay out very oddly depending on the color. But for solid colors yes a very usefull tip
Agree
30 years ago I was painting boats on the West Coast.
I was using Awl Grip, a pure aliphatic polyester based linear polyureathane. I found it to be the most incredible coating available at the time and I don't believe it has been equalled even today. Most automotive painters could not paint with it and threw their gun against the wall. It was like spraying brake fluid. You needed a lot of patience and practice with that stuff but the end result was more than worth it. The gloss was considerably higher than base clear and all done in just 2 coats not 4-5. You had to be very careful when overlapping doing the sides of a boat or it would sag and run all over the place with runs off the runs. We were even painting stainless with it successfully. Some local truckers painted their rigs with it and reported spending 50% less time washing the rig. Dirt, harbor grime and scum rinses right off clean with a garden hose. Back then the space shuttle was coated with it, a lot of coca cola trucks, the Go Train in Toronto. Awl Grip also had a acrylic line which was used on most Jananese bikes, wave runners, etc (Honda, Kawa, Yamaha). Their primer system was second to none. Yet hardly anyone has even heard of the stuff.
Great tip. I used to have a sandpaper scrooge at one place I worked. He was always complaining that we should use the paper longer before switching it out. Annoyed the heck out of everyone that worked there. The only real thing he had to complain about was how much acetone we were using. Which was because most of the guys working there were taking home gallon jugs of it all the time. Car turned out excellent, nice job!
Thanks Bruce !
Yeah our shop used to go thru brake cleaner like that.
Still does, but it used to,too.
😆
I have been doing this for over 20 years on my first coat of base. I use 1000 or if I find an area that needs more attention I use 800. It saves time with nib sanding and buffing. Does a great job to help you get the perfect paint job.
Great insights for the DIY guys, much appreciated. One thing I notice with all the pros especially spraying clear is the overlap. It's so much more than "textbook".
First time on the channel. I had a '94 Honda Civic for MANY years. I'd recognize that body style in any paint theme. Knew it as soon as the vid started.
I really love seeing the base coat coming to life with the clear coat, it’s beautiful 🤩 to my eyes 👀 Anyoldwho, i used to be a spray painter in the late 70s early 80s , everything was cellulose clear coat hadn’t been invented,i was lucky 🍀, I was what was called a wet painter, and prided myself with finishes that never needed sanding and polishing, just a coat of wax. Those were the best days of my life and I didn’t realise it. Awesome video man, I’m still learning, even at 65 lol 😂
Do you have any insight on fading topcoat paint on an 86 Mazda RX7? Cellulose?
me too,i always called myself"hoser" if it anit wet,it wasnt going to shine back then
65 I am 65 and am holding a gun and painting my friend. I won’t retire
@@eddieroy1682 o just got an image of a 65 year old man standing in front of an easel, his friend modelling for him on the other side and the artist has a paintbrush in one hand and a pistol in the other
I 'm motor mechanic,since I watch your video I do spray painting since I am doing custom build, thanks a million
Just the throw away line about prepainting the roof was worth the video. I have never painted a car-been watching these videos though. If there is good demarcation of the roof then I would totally do the roof first and mask it off. It just never occurred to me until you mentioned it.
This method can be used with water base paints. The key rule being allowing appropriate flash/dry time. Some solvents can be troublesome when doing this also. Check your tech sheet and see if adding an activator to your base coat will help with sanding that second coat of color and not have problems. Just a little FYI from an old skool painter.
Thankyou, I was a little hesitant to do this on a metallic acrylic, I'm afraid it will dull sparkle
Thank you for the tips! I am just starting painting... I'm realizing there is a difference between sand paper brands. Sunmight 1500 will cut as fast as Harbor Freight 1200. Thanks for giving us a bit more detail and insight to your reasoning behind your decisions.
Another thing to watch out for on sandpaper is that with alot of the cheap paper you start to see the dust clumping together in spots and not only does it make you go through paper faster it can lead to defects in your work if you arent careful.
Two of the most expensive things you will buy are cheap sandpaper and cheap electrical tape.
@@dsSpitfiremk4 So true- cheap is very expensive!
@@dsSpitfiremk4 LOL - Yup, same as cheap brass tees for frost free hydrants. No fun digging them out of six foot trenches to find the leak.
Had to jump in and say thanks. Where we live is remote in northern Ontario Canada and my truck to get painted at the closet paint place is $ 18300. I prep the body work. I'm not st how they came to this price but I told them they must be nut's. Thanks to your video ☺️☺️☺️ I'll be doing my truck it's a chev Silverado HD in the next few weeks. Your video gave me the confidence. Where can I send a pic or small video of how watching you has saved my family thousands. Your a rock star. Respect from Beardmore Ontario Canada
Your tips and tricks have helped me out so much. They made me better at body work and paint on my last three home paint jobs.
Keep up the great content, thanks Brian. I'm currently flattening clear on my latest 86 mustang convertible project after flow coating. The Kovax green 2000 buflex disks really help get out those straight line 2000 grit wet/ dry scratches before compound.
Back home here we shoot cars in makeshift carport booths and flow coating your base coat before clear is always an good trick!! Also this works well to get smoother finishes with singel stage paints as well!
My grandfather used to teach me that trick . He used 0000 woolpads on non metallic bases. Like you did. Gr8 video. Thank you brother!
excellent...this is just what I was looking for. I have a covered garage, but not a true paint booth. Dust is a problem. What I found that helps is to staple plastic sheeting all around ...walls and ceiling...but no matter what...dust is going to find a way into the paint. One of the ways I try to control dust in this sheeted garage is to put a large fan on one side of the garage that creates a negative pressure in the garage and then a simple air conditioning filter in the other side of the garage in a window. Not to create a tornado but a slight air flow. I turn this on for about an hour before I start to do prep and this helps move any dust in the air out of the garage. I also use a hepa filter wet dry vac when I am sanding and doing prep work...the idea is to collect as much dust and dirt as possible and not just let it fall or collect. it's not a perfect system, but it's what I can afford and I've done two old trucks this way with pretty good results. The first time I restored the finish on an older truck, it was open air, outside and the results were horrible. Too difficult to control temperature and dust. So I converted my shop garage as my diy paint booth...much better results. I also found that it helps to use a strong led handheld light while I work to really get a good reflection of light on the body during prep and paint. Every little thing to make the end result a good one.
Another thing you could also do that works really well is spray your base coat, put two coats of inter coat clear, sand it the same way you did in this video then go straight over it with clear coat. It gives it a semi flow coat effect and you can skip the step of going back over it with another coat of color base coat after you sand/denib it.
Could you explain what flow coat means
@@danzo5521 it is where after you clear coat your car you let it sit for a few days, re-sand the clear with 600grit, then put another 2 coats of clear coat on it. Here is a link in one of my videos from my channel where I break it down and show you how to do it. th-cam.com/video/bf_06_um9Iw/w-d-xo.html
@@amosautomotivepaintrestora1948 thanks
You do the same thing with painting cars that I do on painting houses, for a smooth finish on trim with a gloss coat I tend to roll it on really fast and then smooth that out before I hit it with the brush that gives it the really smooth look that some people like. Plus for complex or curved trim I will use the sponge version of a sandpaper because it Contours how I choose and makes the Finish perfect.
You fellow freaking Craftsman perfectionist, keep sharing your tips in your videos while I share them with people I run into.
Together this world will be a better place.😁
I use this technique on blends that are too close to the next panel. But with finer grit. Let's me blend with as little as 4 inches to the next panel. My blend passes are done up and down and not side to side. On larger blends I use the top of my fan to blend with in an arching motion. You don't get the moteling and halo effect.
Blending vertically instead of horizontal I guess is a European thing. I learned that from a very experienced painter and use this technique on blends as well. Always comes out great!
I used to refunish antique furniture and I sanded between finish coats also. It removes raised grains and minor bubbles from lacquer. Just a quick light sanding amd then wipe all that down.
Howzit Brian. Velesh here from South Africa. Love your channel. Painted my van last month after watching your videos. The one thing I noticed is that you can have the best gun the best spray technique the best air compressor but if u have bad lighting u put yourself at a disadvantage and that was my downfall. Love your channel. Thanks
Hey Brian,😀 you are the best please do not stop your videos as you are the Master Painter for millions of peoples that do the job at their own garage.
Painted MANY cars in grandpa's barn with a make shift paint booth made of 2x4's that are older than I am and sheet plastic. stapled to it. There's 2 keys, first wet down the concrete a couple hours before you put the sheet up and second, Here's a tech tip for all of you.... Rubbing Alcohol and a clean cheese cloth, why pay $15 for a can of Prep-sol when a $1 bottle of 91% of Rubbing Alcohol does the same thing. I also use 1 stage paint 99% of the time.
The sanding of basecoat is great for new painters, I've been painting 40 yrs and some painters thought I was crazy, I've been scuffling base since late 80s. While they buff the next day, I'm shipping mine bk to body shop....lol. Since 90s I've always covered the windows of the booth and it really pissed them off. I never asked anyone if you could do this, trial n error in 80s. But nice video. Things are a lil bit different in collision repair, boss wants it yesterday, but while they buff, I'm spraying another 1. Remember, slower is always faster. js
Great to see a relevant video, we have a Mazda3 to paint and we just made a plastic tent to keep weather out
Hey, it'll work
Been painting since 99, learned something new... thanks, lately been painting cement mixers in the dustiest shop known to man! Love this idea!!
sanding the base before your last coat is almost always not a bad idea. Also after putting down 2 coats of clear wait 24 hours and sand and recoat it. OMG Makes a big difference. Eliminates shrinkage or dieback. I do 2 coats of clear sand with 800 then reclear (some guys call this flow coat.)
I would love to just flow coat most my work. Much better on the buffer, you’re 100% right Mike.
Shrinkage doesnt happen because of the clearcoat. Its all stages of paint sinking into the repair. So more clear is only just hiding a dodgy repair and it is more paint to shrink and cause delamination issues down the line due to over application. Best way to elimate shrinkage....isolate the repair and prime it properly. Double prime if you have to.
Flows coats are good and give an amazing gloss, but shouldn't be used as a prevention for shrinkage. That issue needs addressed well before the lacquer is mixed. If you use a UHS clear you shouldn't need to flow coat anyway
@@nathancarruthers254 I realize what your saying in theory but experience tells me that the second coat of clear really makes a difference. and whatever shrinkage there is is covered up by that second coat of clear. I have used all sorts of primers. epoxy primer as sealer and still there is some degree of shrinkage. UHS clears. 59% solids and Putting down that flow coat can turn a home job into a full custom show paint job. In theory your right but like I said I have painted in the hundreds somewhere near thousands of cars. Back in the 80s I used to do that with acrylic enamel. We only had 2 primers available. Lacquer and Polyester or the old synthetic primer which Most guys never used. Sanding down your last coat which is sealed, with 400 or 600 then respraying 2 more coats of color or clear. would act as a sealer. Paint seals actually better than primer. So when you put down on set of clear coats and sand that down and do another set. it does nearly the same thing as putting down a good epoxy primer sealer. Lots of ways to skin a cat. and yes your not wrong but this also works.
@@Mikefngarage
You to are also right, I'm not saying it doesn't work, I'm just saying it isn't common practice. With today's products on the market, a high build primer with 3 coats will equal anywhere from 100-150 microns depending on gun set up and painter application, whereas application of a uhs clear will only be around 35 to 40 microns being that most modern uhs clears are only 1.5 coat applications. So when you sand that clear coat down and re apply more clear, say another 1.5 coats for example. That's still only 80 microns of total film build with the clear.
Products do shrink back and you can tell that from when the primer dries in the pot and shrinks in on itself.
I also have painted 1000s of cars and still am to this day. I will occasionally flow coat jobs because as you say, it does turn a standard job into a show job. But if we're flow coating we need to also remember to allow for your first batch of clear to cure properly. So flat it down and leave it to gas out for the allocated time as per the TDS other wise its just going to be under cured clear trapped under more clear.
I just think when it comes to educating the younger generation say, we should be telling them what a flow coat is actually for and not what a flow coat can hide?
I am confused about the people who complain about the title being misleading!! Brian never once stated about painting OUTSIDE! Quick to complain but missed the message by a mile! 🤦♂️ Thank you Brian @paintsociety for all the content you put up. It helps your average Joe like me a whole lot! 🙏
Thank you!!!!!
Prep work makes all the difference in the finish! I have done complete cars in my drive way with a paint brush and dip can, with nearly the same results , but when “brushing “ on a paint job, attention to detail needs to be complete throughout the job! That means, touch up sanding between coats, tacking off residue, second and third coats, wet sanding color coats smooth, polishing, and letting cure properly before finish polish and sealing! ( and only brush solid colors). Brushing a cars requires 5-10 times the amount of paying attention to details then spraying, because paint only goes where the brush lays it!
I'd love to watch your process.
@@tchrisou812 if I ever decide to paint my $200.00 truck, I will post the process on my channel
It’s v been painting cars for 23 years and I’m always interested in what guys are doing…I like using my orbital for nib sanding with 1000g 3m film, water can be sanded as long as it is totally dry! Looks great man.
Great vid mate, keep em coming! I was wondering if you have considered making a video comparing the differences between single stage and 2 stage solid colour spraying? Preparation, application, hardening etc as well as when and where you would benefit by using either system. I think that would make a great vid, and you are definitely the man to do it. Peace!
I'm not a painter and even I can tell this guy knows what he's talking about. --- Thanks for sharing your experience. --
I've said this before but I swear if I laid that much clear on, it would be dripping off!
I took my garage and lined with plastic, added filters in the man door opening and had an exhaust fan in the opposite end of garage, worked well.
Perfect! This is such a great channel. Thank you, for taking me along. I'm sure it takes a ton of your time.
Tons!!
I also watch Bad Chad
When I was a kid before my paint booth my shop was a dust bowl dungeon. To get around the dust issue I would go to my shop at 4-5 am and paint. Usually the air was still and the bugs had gone home. To this day I still like lower light as it seems to be easier to see the paint edge..............
Hey mr Brian thanks so much for the videos. I have learnt a lot from your channel and you are probably the best teacher I have come across on TH-cam
Thank you for the effort you put in for us to be a better sprayer. I also want to request that you do a video on spot repair blow in on the back bumper of a car .it will be much appreciated. I have watched a number of videos but it's still not clear and I believe you are gonna explain better
Trying my best. It’s not easy but doing my best
@@PaintSociety * That's a Great Philosophy for Life in General , Dawg !
Every time you do something to a car's paint the results are flawless. You have got the Midas touch OP.
Hello Brian, I've just started watching your videos and you got my attention, you make it very clear on what needs to be done. But I have one question regarding the sanding: I couldn't see if you sprayed a fine metallic paint, so the question is can you sand fine metallic paint as you indicated in your video? Thank you!
1000 grit, 1 to 1 1/2 coat after.
This is a perfect presentation style for youtube. It's wonderful to find a video that doesn't have added distracting music playing while someone is speaking. Anyone making videos on youtube should take notes.
(there're so many channels that I'd like to watch, but I don't due to the distracting music they play over their voice)
The result is stunning!! Amazing job Brian!!
Can’t wait to see it all done😀
@@PaintSociety oh yeah your channel is one of the best if not the best paint channels, very detailed
May God bless you and all those who share goodness, effecting lives of people and public, may god reward you multi fold...for your goodness at heart.
Absolutely best guy, he helped me a ton and I’ll be forever grateful. He help me huge on a Tri coat red blend on a Infiniti. Thanks for the help brother,
Matt
My pops has been painting cars about 50 years now. He has long retired to his shop at home where he does about 3 cars a year. He doesn’t have a booth in the shop. He preps the car the night before spraying. The car then sits over night. In the morning he wipes it down, wets the floor, and sprays. No blowing stuff off the day you spray. You have to let the dust settle out of the air. This works for him. The cars sell for big money.
I've painted entire cars with rust paint from a spray can. for $60, the results were great.
I’d my truck Sam way lol F4 ford red
My god you layed that last coat down mate i have been spray painting for 47 years you pounded that product!!💪💪💪👏👏👏🇨🇦
This is a trick I learned from a old timer that was a holdover from his lacquer days.] The other thing he taught me was the key to amazing paint was hard work. Considering he painted 3 Ridler winners back in the 70s early 80s including Bob anzalones t bucket because Bob was still working his day job says something. Funny thing was he got tired of painting cars for guys he hated because they treated people like shit. So when he had his own shop he had the asshole tax and timeline. There were guys he'd tell 10 years and 10 million. One guy got pissed because it's not fast enough and asked about my pos S10 and how a kid could afford it insinuating I had drug money. He was trying to get in front of me but Jim told him my job was free for me and he'd have to wait 😆 After he left he was laughing the whole day........ I worked there from 13 till 18 full time outside of school and up until I left for the Navy and learned a lot about life and a bit of painting.
That sanding final coat truck is what I do when I cover furniture with lacquer. I sand really lightly with 500 and it gives a perfect smooth finish and the final coat will look perfect
Hi Brian, another brilliant job and so informative as usual! Thank you so much for sharing your great skill and I hope you and your family have a great Christmas and prosperous & healthy 2022 🎅🏼
Merry Christmas !
Great videos. Even at 53. Im.learning tips on welding and painting for my many bike and car projects. Thanks for your clean and simple tips
Enjoy the work and content you provide Brian. I do have a question on this particular paint job. I was under the impression that Milano Red was a tri-coat paint job and that the clear had some kind of tint to give it it's final look and finish, or has the paint formula changed? Again, thanks for the content and information you provide.
I can't speak to this color exactly, because I can't remember shooting it, but I can tell you that, for Ford RR (ruby red),the OMNI/Deltron formula is a tri-coat, but the Matrix formula is just base/clear. So, it could have something to do with the paint line he's spraying.
I found you can get a lot better job if you pay a lot of attention to dust from your hose, clothes and paper on the car. All a booth will do is evacuate the overspray. A booth will do nothing for a dirty tack rag, not blowing, tacking, blowing, tacking the car or final tack of hose, suit and gun. Great video!
Long as it is short really, can cause more dirt from were you've flatted it, especially as you say if you have poor extraction and theres no way ever you can do it on a metallic, much better to leave well alone and de-nip later painting for 37 years, and there's a chance of marking the basecoat how ever carful you are even with a bit of f#cked old 1000, can imagine doing it on a silver or a very light gold were the prep has to be spot on? Love ya vids dude.
Definitely gotta be careful if it’s a metallic. I agree !
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I just want to comment that this video was very well put together. You didn't waste time with overlong segments and i got a clear picture of what you were showing. Thank you.
subscribed
It's nice for once, to see a guy who actually knows how to use a spray gun.
You have one of the Top 5 TH-cam channels with great content. I love watching these and I don't even paint cars.
Thank you Dave !
Wouldn’t dirt go on your last coat of basecoat after all your work sanding ?
What did I say in the video about that?
I find the ultra fine scuff pads work even better than those sand paper cloths. It sand more even and doesn't get clogged up which could cause striping.
If you don’t have a paint booth! Yet completely done in the confines of said “paint booth “?
cant help myself but the car in the begining of the video looks like it is straight out of a borderlands game :D
Back in 1981 I painted my 1968 Ford Torino with Centari Acrylic Enamel. It came out pretty good for a first time car painter. Now, 2024, the car is showing some rust spots that are coming through. I can't get the paint I used before, so I am thinking of painting the entire car again with base coat/ clear coat. In 1981, I could not get the C strip tape to put on the sides, so I painted that on after the first coat dried. That came out very well too. If I repaint with base coat, can I paint on the c strip before doing the clear coat? How much time do I have till I need to put on the clear? How much time do I give the base coat to dry before taping off the c strip to paint on? Your video here was so good. You painted the car with the doors off, hood off and trunk lid off. That was how i painted my car back in 1981 because I did a color change and i didn't know how to get into all the places with the doors, hood and lid on. I had to paint those separately. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Great video. If I were not so old, I might try to do it. I studied collision repair when I was younger but life got in the way when I got to spraying.
This guy is way underrated!! Thanks been painting for years but still learning and using your tips!!
I am a newbie to auto painting and I find your videos very informative. With vids like this, I will be able to maintain my 2005 Merc looking new. Of course, you make it all look so easy but, you're a pro. If I lived in your neck of the woods, you would get all my business.
First time watching and I'm hooked ,I think YOUR THE BEST, 👍👍👍⭐⭐⭐
Usually after I primer repair areas I paint them with one coat of base (Nason base) to make car's overall color uniform and apply one wet coat of reduced nason PANEL clear to seal it ( you save on sealer) . I let it dry/cure day or two, block sand it 800 /1000 grit and then paint whole car with one coat of base (chromabase) and 2 coats of clear and job comes out super clean.
I can't add much to what has already been said. I don't paint cars anymore, I gave that up when there was no more single stage acrylic enamel (I'm in CA). But that's a neat trick that I can use. Thanks from an old and ex painter.
Sikkens. Best paint I ever used. Never had a problem.
Great choice
I always learn from your great channel. I am not a professional but I do get professional results with glass smooth finishes right out of the spray gun by practicing and knowing the basics in preparation of surfaces, smoothing the primer, using all compatible high quality materials, and properly setting up my spray gun Including draining my air compressor to get rid of moisture as well. It’s always a school day watching your channel.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, skill and professionalism with all of us.
Thanks Michael for your wholesome comment!
Great tips here. Correct it in the base for sure. Picking something out of clear is a slippery slope and almost never works out.
I have learned a lot of from you bro. Your words , Its just paint, run through my head when I get tense about the paint job outcome.
Thanks
LittleO
hi sir.aspiring painter here and thankyou so much for your tips,guides and tutorials. i hope i can apply properly what youve taught 😅 cause im only starting with my small place but your tutorials inspired me. thankyou so much sir. a big fan here from the philippines 🇵🇭