Hello, I came across your channel yesterday and have been binge watching your build. It's been a pleasure! I sailed in the Merchant Marines for years back in the 70's and 80's. I worked on the deck so I know a thing or two about the various parts of the deck and mooring equipment. It's been kinda fun seeing how Trumpeter has interpreted some things. There's several things that I'm dubious about with respect to proper placement on this model. Particularly the capstans (what you refer to as winches) and anchor windlass brake situation, but I don't think the average joe or model builder would know the difference. But in the spirit of seeing how you take an extra effort to get things right, I might point out around the 11:00 min mark, those two small angled pedestal fairleads should be angled away from the capstan drum, not towards it. They would have been attached to the deck at basically a 45 degree angle from both the capstan drum, and the bollard or chock the mooring line is passing through. If those were angled with the high side away from the capstan (the way it appears you placed them), as the mooring line got tight it would fly off the top of the fairlead head. I hope I'm making sense. I'm pretty sure you will understand if you take another look at it an imagine a mooring line going from the capstan drum to the fairlead and what happens when the rope gets tight. I really probably shouldn't have said anything about it. But I do appreciate your efforts at realism, so just trying to be of assistance. Can't wait to see the rest!
Really enjoying the build. Keep up the good work. Loctite bonds can be broken with heat. Usually a gas torch but not such a good idea around plastic hulls. A clean hot soldering iron placed on the propeller hub will do the trick with no risk to the hull.
Aaah yes that’s a good shout. I was scared of heating it because of the proximity to the hull, but as you say soldering iron will be localised enough. Thanks for the tip, next time it won’t be such a faff!
Hi Rob, great video as usual! The Titanic was a new ship in so far as it had not sailed very much before the disaster. During her fitting out she would have spent sometime exposed when docked. However people forget that the ship was coal powered and as such was subjected to all sorts of coal dust soot and water on the decks. Those air venting systems would attract anything flying about and thus would have been a little tatty quite early on to say the least! Having sailed on brand new and cleaner ships myself any little spaces around metal very quickly can get grime and rust coming through the paintwork. In fact painting is virtually an ongoing job throughout the working life of any ship. The weathering you have done is good and not over cooked, so good job. Those new propellers look the business! So now you have a speed boat! :-D Take your time with the video's, all good things come to those prepared to wait! I have just drilled out the centre propeller shaft of my Olympic!!!!!
Yeah I hadn’t appreciated until recently how absolutely revolting the coaling process was. I was reading about it recently and hadn’t really understood quite how much preparation was needed to prepare a ship for the coaling. Great news you’ve started on the Olympic. I’m interested to see how you manage to sort of the A deck promenade decks! Keep safe! Rob
Beautiful Work. Just found your channel and have been binge watching every since. You are inspiring me to possibly get one. Question... and you may have addressed this in a later video or I may just be wrong, but it looks to me like the pitch of the new props are backwards from the one you replaced (time stamp 20:18)? With the center prop not able to run in reverse, won't this be an issue?
The props on the ship how do turn the correct way. That bit at 20:18 is just coincidence, I put the prop I had just removed from the other side down below the new prop which is why they are different turn. Central prop not reversing does reduce the speed the ship can stop. But it’s accurate as the real Titanics central prop was non reversible and I liked the factual accuracy over function! Just means you have to be a bit more alert when sailing her!
Love your innovation in making this model in your own and unique way, 👍 but got to ask if I build this model right out of the box Which of the wooden decking would be more suitable for my needs without sanding flat those high-rise location area's? And out of curiosity what wooden decking did you go with?
Hey there great videos nice modelling :) I'm building the same model and making it rc, where did you get the bronze propellers I have looked on Facebook for the group you mentioned and can't find it any help would be appreciated, Steve.
There was a production run on the Facebook group devoted to this model. It’s called Trumpeter Titanic 1/200th model ONLY building tips and tricks. Whether or not this production run has finished or not yet, I can’t say but worth going on the group and checking. Just a tip, the admins get a little irritated by people asking questions on the group before using the search function to try to locate things so probs best to have a look over that first! But it’s a great tool for this sort of project 🙂
how will you make sure the final model is not too heavy with all the battery, power pieces etc? What I mean is, you want it to float like it would at the water level but if its heavy, might the water level be up higher than desired?
So I have used a CAD (computer aided design) software called Fusion 360 to create a model of my model in advance. I’ve added all the components with their respective weights etc into the model which gives me reasonable confidence it will work. I have had to make a bit of an educated guess with the superstructure as before it’s complete I can’t really work out how much that will weigh. Paint, glue, photo etch parts vs plastic parts etc make it very difficult to accurately estimate the final weight. So what I’ve done is tried to build in a bit of contingency. Currently the model uses 3 batteries, but if the superstructure ends up being slightly heavier than I have calculated I can reduce it to a 2 battery system and that gives me the additional weight I need to get the model working 🙂
Great work, loved the way you did the poop deck and after well deck. Can you give us a link to the propellers you switched to, I do not do facebook, so any help is appreciated.
@@TheModelBoatGuy I really hope there is a way to order without going through Facebook. I'm a member of that Facebook group too. I'm doing a waterline model so there would be no need for propellers. I just want the anchors. But honestly, I'm to scared to ask the admin if I could just order the anchors lol.
Haha I do appreciate that! They can be a bit irritable with repeated questions. Are you U.K. based? I’m asking because I have but don’t need the anchors so happy to send them to you?
Aah no worries. If I were you id just ask by sending a direct message to the group admin. I have done so before and they have been quite helpful to me 🙂
My ships hull isn't perfectly flush a don't know if I should just tamiya cement it all around? Only reason I didn't was to build it kind of like yours and pop off the top to future proof my leds incase at some point they begin to fail.
Hi there, This isnt unusual unfortunately. And to be fair to trumpeter its not really their fault either. It's just a fact of casing large sections of plastic that there will be a bit of warp. There are a few things that can be done, - You can add ribbing / supports to push / pull warped plastic out to make the shape more true,. - You can try and do a bit of bending of decks to get the correct shape. - Live with it (not ideal but hey ho). I have essentially done a blend of all 3. I've added ribbing and strengthening to keep the hull relatively straight along its length. That said the superstructure doesn't quite mate onto the hull in all areas. There's no right or wrong way to deal with this though!
Hi, this is actually a Humbrol colour. www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/humbrol-no61-14ml-enamel-flesh/ I believe the closest match to this with Tamiya is XF-15. However I do think the Tamiya is a touch lighter. There’s loads of conversion charts online that you can look at to cross check Humbrol against Tamiya and other manufacturers
Hello, I came across your channel yesterday and have been binge watching your build. It's been a pleasure! I sailed in the Merchant Marines for years back in the 70's and 80's. I worked on the deck so I know a thing or two about the various parts of the deck and mooring equipment. It's been kinda fun seeing how Trumpeter has interpreted some things. There's several things that I'm dubious about with respect to proper placement on this model. Particularly the capstans (what you refer to as winches) and anchor windlass brake situation, but I don't think the average joe or model builder would know the difference. But in the spirit of seeing how you take an extra effort to get things right, I might point out around the 11:00 min mark, those two small angled pedestal fairleads should be angled away from the capstan drum, not towards it. They would have been attached to the deck at basically a 45 degree angle from both the capstan drum, and the bollard or chock the mooring line is passing through. If those were angled with the high side away from the capstan (the way it appears you placed them), as the mooring line got tight it would fly off the top of the fairlead head. I hope I'm making sense. I'm pretty sure you will understand if you take another look at it an imagine a mooring line going from the capstan drum to the fairlead and what happens when the rope gets tight. I really probably shouldn't have said anything about it. But I do appreciate your efforts at realism, so just trying to be of assistance. Can't wait to see the rest!
Really enjoying the build. Keep up the good work. Loctite bonds can be broken with heat. Usually a gas torch but not such a good idea around plastic hulls. A clean hot soldering iron placed on the propeller hub will do the trick with no risk to the hull.
Aaah yes that’s a good shout. I was scared of heating it because of the proximity to the hull, but as you say soldering iron will be localised enough. Thanks for the tip, next time it won’t be such a faff!
Waited for this for soon long also I made a dry dock with the scaffolding on the besides and top
Hi Rob, great video as usual! The Titanic was a new ship in so far as it had not sailed very much before the disaster. During her fitting out she would have spent sometime exposed when docked. However people forget that the ship was coal powered and as such was subjected to all sorts of coal dust soot and water on the decks. Those air venting systems would attract anything flying about and thus would have been a little tatty quite early on to say the least! Having sailed on brand new and cleaner ships myself any little spaces around metal very quickly can get grime and rust coming through the paintwork. In fact painting is virtually an ongoing job throughout the working life of any ship. The weathering you have done is good and not over cooked, so good job. Those new propellers look the business! So now you have a speed boat! :-D Take your time with the video's, all good things come to those prepared to wait! I have just drilled out the centre propeller shaft of my Olympic!!!!!
Yeah I hadn’t appreciated until recently how absolutely revolting the coaling process was. I was reading about it recently and hadn’t really understood quite how much preparation was needed to prepare a ship for the coaling.
Great news you’ve started on the Olympic. I’m interested to see how you manage to sort of the A deck promenade decks! Keep safe!
Rob
Great video as always, love the focus on the actual modelling. Looks great and can't wait for next time!
Really good thank you
Rob
YEAH BOI ANOTHER TITANIC THINGY LET’S GOOOOOOO
Cool 👍
Hi this is a really good video
*That's a great Titanic.What a great video! So cool!!!~~^_^*
Beautiful Work. Just found your channel and have been binge watching every since. You are inspiring me to possibly get one. Question... and you may have addressed this in a later video or I may just be wrong, but it looks to me like the pitch of the new props are backwards from the one you replaced (time stamp 20:18)? With the center prop not able to run in reverse, won't this be an issue?
The props on the ship how do turn the correct way. That bit at 20:18 is just coincidence, I put the prop I had just removed from the other side down below the new prop which is why they are different turn.
Central prop not reversing does reduce the speed the ship can stop. But it’s accurate as the real Titanics central prop was non reversible and I liked the factual accuracy over function! Just means you have to be a bit more alert when sailing her!
Love your innovation in making this model in your own and unique way, 👍 but got to ask if I build this model right out of the box
Which of the wooden decking would be more suitable for my needs without sanding flat those high-rise location area's? And out of curiosity what wooden decking did you go with?
He used the Ka decks that came with the upgrade kit
I was wrong he used wood decks from scale decks
can you tell me what kind of door hinge it is can you buy something somewhere looks really nice
It’s home made from some brass bar that I have bent, relatively simple to do but it can be a bit fiddly to assemble
Thanks, I'll try it with a brass rod. I'm very excited about your project
Hey there great videos nice modelling :) I'm building the same model and making it rc, where did you get the bronze propellers I have looked on Facebook for the group you mentioned and can't find it any help would be appreciated, Steve.
There was a production run on the Facebook group devoted to this model.
It’s called Trumpeter Titanic 1/200th model ONLY building tips and tricks.
Whether or not this production run has finished or not yet, I can’t say but worth going on the group and checking. Just a tip, the admins get a little irritated by people asking questions on the group before using the search function to try to locate things so probs best to have a look over that first! But it’s a great tool for this sort of project 🙂
how will you make sure the final model is not too heavy with all the battery, power pieces etc? What I mean is, you want it to float like it would at the water level but if its heavy, might the water level be up higher than desired?
Cad he measured it all on cad it's a software .the center of mass is all balenced so he's good to go
So I have used a CAD (computer aided design) software called Fusion 360 to create a model of my model in advance. I’ve added all the components with their respective weights etc into the model which gives me reasonable confidence it will work.
I have had to make a bit of an educated guess with the superstructure as before it’s complete I can’t really work out how much that will weigh. Paint, glue, photo etch parts vs plastic parts etc make it very difficult to accurately estimate the final weight.
So what I’ve done is tried to build in a bit of contingency. Currently the model uses
3 batteries, but if the superstructure ends up being slightly heavier than I have calculated I can reduce it to a 2 battery system and that gives me the additional weight I need to get the model working 🙂
Great work, loved the way you did the poop deck and after well deck. Can you give us a link to the propellers you switched to, I do not do facebook, so any help is appreciated.
I’m not sure how to get your hands on them without Facebook... I’ll ask the people on the group for advice and let you know 🙂
@@TheModelBoatGuy I really hope there is a way to order without going through Facebook. I'm a member of that Facebook group too. I'm doing a waterline model so there would be no need for propellers. I just want the anchors. But honestly, I'm to scared to ask the admin if I could just order the anchors lol.
Haha I do appreciate that! They can be a bit irritable with repeated questions. Are you U.K. based? I’m asking because I have but don’t need the anchors so happy to send them to you?
@@TheModelBoatGuy Sadly, I'm in the U.S.
Aah no worries. If I were you id just ask by sending a direct message to the group admin. I have done so before and they have been quite helpful to me 🙂
My ships hull isn't perfectly flush a don't know if I should just tamiya cement it all around? Only reason I didn't was to build it kind of like yours and pop off the top to future proof my leds incase at some point they begin to fail.
Hi there,
This isnt unusual unfortunately. And to be fair to trumpeter its not really their fault either. It's just a fact of casing large sections of plastic that there will be a bit of warp.
There are a few things that can be done,
- You can add ribbing / supports to push / pull warped plastic out to make the shape more true,.
- You can try and do a bit of bending of decks to get the correct shape.
- Live with it (not ideal but hey ho).
I have essentially done a blend of all 3. I've added ribbing and strengthening to keep the hull relatively straight along its length. That said the superstructure doesn't quite mate onto the hull in all areas.
There's no right or wrong way to deal with this though!
Hi the orange color you have around the model can you tell me the Tamiya number is or Mr hobby.
Hi, this is actually a Humbrol colour.
www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/humbrol-no61-14ml-enamel-flesh/
I believe the closest match to this with Tamiya is XF-15. However I do think the Tamiya is a touch lighter. There’s loads of conversion charts online that you can look at to cross check Humbrol against Tamiya and other manufacturers
you can break the bond of Loctite with heat.
I know, I flirted with that idea but I was a bit scared of damaging the plastic surrounding the prop shafts as it is very close!
how come it took so long to uplode
Just massively busy at work. Hopefully should be back to normal soon
@@TheModelBoatGuy ok thats alright good job
Hi can I have your Instagram I need to ask you some things about titanic my ex ship it should be like 5 mins I just need minor help please
I’ve actually just made an account for the channel (same name). You can send messages there