@@TheModelBoatGuy hey I just bought the trumpeter Titanic & scaledecks for it got to ask, what size drill did you use to open up your portholes on the hull? & was it easy to fill them with that UV resin? and are you using the lights that came in the kit?
Hi Rob, yes I can concur, the last time my hair was this bad was in the early 1970's!! I hacked mine a bit, looks okay and in any event I have nowhere to go in public right now apart from the supermarkets! Great job on the vibration suppression, an easy fix which is what you needed. Some nice aluminium L section around the carry box could look nice.....if you have nothing else better to do! I have just ordered the Scaledecks hard to get sheet 3 which was designed without the lifeboat stand slots. I was going to patch them in but I have so much else to do on this thing I thought just get it and done with it! I am currently cutting holes in the hull, a very slow messy job! Looking forward to you doing more of the 'farty bits' Nice video as usual, stay safe and don't trip over your hair! Regards JH ;-D
Ha well yes. I don’t think my hair has ever been this long, just waiting on tenter hooks for the barbers to open! Yes I was relieved the rubber worked as I was rather running out of ideas to fix the vibration. Hopefully the last of the issues. Yes I think you will need the sheet 3. You won’t be disappointed when they arrive, so nice. I don’t envy you doing the cutting of the hull, I’m sure worth the effort in the long run but things will look worse before they look better! I keep meaning to ask what era Olympic are you making? Cheers, hope you’re keeping well, Rob
@@TheModelBoatGuyYes I as a bit miffed having to buy yet another sheet of Scaledecks but as you say they do look nice when they are laid down. Yes the hull modification does look pretty gruesome but it is worth it for a static model. All the elegant curves do look pretty striking quite early on but it is a lot of hard work! The Olympic era that I am aiming for is late in her career, circa early 1930's. That's obviously when so many different upgrades and alterations had been made. A total nightmare in sorting what had been done and what hadn't. The lifeboats by then were all over the place, some nested, some single, larger electric winches. There was also an added catwalk traversing the stern well deck area. Changes in windows etc. I will never get it all right as the historical information is a bit hit and miss to say the least!! All good here thanks. Cheers JH :-)
It has presented some issues yeah. I will cover this as I get into the boat deck because it’s quite evident there but I’ve done a few things that solve most of the issues. So on B deck I trimmed the deck houses down to account for the wood. And on A deck I am trimming the scaledecks to allow the deck houses to sit flush as trumpeter intended they would. However there’s still a bit of an issue with the boat deck sitting too high. Bit I am tempted to replace the boat deck with a piece of my own making, which is thinner. Which should hopefully fix the misalignment, but also reduce weight above the waterline and will look a wee bit better I think, I find the trumpeter decks look quite thick. But this is still a work in progress!
I’d have thought they would yeah. I was torn between the two. The only reason I prefer bolts is because they give you a bit more force. I think to make sure light dosent bleed through you need to get the decks quite firmly in place. Having said that if you have strong enough magnets you’ll be fine
Hi there, nope no linseed oil. I’d be a little bit worried about the oil lessening the bonding effect of the glue. I spray my wooden decks with two coats of matt varnish before installation. That seals them nicely and makes them relatively resistant to water
Random question: as someone else with the KA set - I'm curious - are you sanding the moulded doors down to put the ka PS doors on or are you overlaying or just ignoring (e.g. on the cranes or poop deck etc.) Hard to tell from the videos but it looks like you are doing a mixture.
Good question. Depends on the wall really, if it’s a flat wall I tend to leave the plastic on, but I do take the real high points off like the hinges. I like the look of the PE doors standing off from the wall a bit, makes them a bit more obvious. But the curved walls like cranes etc I tend to sand off completely
It is mighty pricey. And I do agree that it’s rather overwhelming. I found that too, and it’s still a bit scary when you get all this stuff. I still find it a bit overwhelming when you look at the box of things left to go!
Love the shot of the tiny people standing down next to the hull, it really gives the model a massive scale.
I know right! I have read I don’t know how many books on Titanic, knew her dimensions etc but still never quite appreciated how big she was!
I thought that too...
Nice work you inspired me to make my rc titanic
Awesome idea to deaden the vibrations with that strip of rubber, I like the way you think. 😜👍👍 looking good!
Thanks man! I was relieved it worked because I was running out of ideas on how to solve them!
@@TheModelBoatGuy hey I just bought the trumpeter Titanic & scaledecks for it got to ask, what size drill did you use to open up your portholes on the hull? & was it easy to fill them with that UV resin? and are you using the lights that came in the kit?
Hi Rob, yes I can concur, the last time my hair was this bad was in the early 1970's!! I hacked mine a bit, looks okay and in any event I have nowhere to go in public right now apart from the supermarkets! Great job on the vibration suppression, an easy fix which is what you needed. Some nice aluminium L section around the carry box could look nice.....if you have nothing else better to do! I have just ordered the Scaledecks hard to get sheet 3 which was designed without the lifeboat stand slots. I was going to patch them in but I have so much else to do on this thing I thought just get it and done with it! I am currently cutting holes in the hull, a very slow messy job! Looking forward to you doing more of the 'farty bits' Nice video as usual, stay safe and don't trip over your hair! Regards JH ;-D
Ha well yes. I don’t think my hair has ever been this long, just waiting on tenter hooks for the barbers to open!
Yes I was relieved the rubber worked as I was rather running out of ideas to fix the vibration. Hopefully the last of the issues. Yes I think you will need the sheet 3. You won’t be disappointed when they arrive, so nice.
I don’t envy you doing the cutting of the hull, I’m sure worth the effort in the long run but things will look worse before they look better! I keep meaning to ask what era Olympic are you making?
Cheers, hope you’re keeping well,
Rob
@@TheModelBoatGuyYes I as a bit miffed having to buy yet another sheet of Scaledecks but as you say they do look nice when they are laid down. Yes the hull modification does look pretty gruesome but it is worth it for a static model. All the elegant curves do look pretty striking quite early on but it is a lot of hard work!
The Olympic era that I am aiming for is late in her career, circa early 1930's. That's obviously when so many different upgrades and alterations had been made. A total nightmare in sorting what had been done and what hadn't. The lifeboats by then were all over the place, some nested, some single, larger electric winches. There was also an added catwalk traversing the stern well deck area. Changes in windows etc. I will never get it all right as the historical information is a bit hit and miss to say the least!! All good here thanks. Cheers JH :-)
Great work as always! Might need to change your name to TheModelShipGuy lol! Can't wait to see the nitty gritty interior detailing!
Haha well yes, mistakes were made! It’s amazing how hard it is to call it ship now, I’m so used to saying boat 😅
Calling them boats is fine
Love it!
Welcome to the hair days of the 60's, just like your parents.
I reckon I am way more stylish than them 😅
So did putting the floors down first and the walls in second sitting on the edge of the floors not put the walls too high for the second deck
It has presented some issues yeah.
I will cover this as I get into the boat deck because it’s quite evident there but I’ve done a few things that solve most of the issues.
So on B deck I trimmed the deck houses down to account for the wood. And on A deck I am trimming the scaledecks to allow the deck houses to sit flush as trumpeter intended they would. However there’s still a bit of an issue with the boat deck sitting too high. Bit I am tempted to replace the boat deck with a piece of my own making, which is thinner. Which should hopefully fix the misalignment, but also reduce weight above the waterline and will look a wee bit better I think, I find the trumpeter decks look quite thick. But this is still a work in progress!
@@TheModelBoatGuy thanks for the reply,I’m starting my build soon and you series is amazing and will help so much. Looking forward to the next video
For added security in locking down your decks. Would magnets have worked? I'm thinking of a project for my hobby room.
I’d have thought they would yeah. I was torn between the two. The only reason I prefer bolts is because they give you a bit more force. I think to make sure light dosent bleed through you need to get the decks quite firmly in place.
Having said that if you have strong enough magnets you’ll be fine
Do you apply linseed oil to the finished deck to protect it ,especially as you are sailing her .
Hi there, nope no linseed oil. I’d be a little bit worried about the oil lessening the bonding effect of the glue.
I spray my wooden decks with two coats of matt varnish before installation. That seals them nicely and makes them relatively resistant to water
@@TheModelBoatGuy thats a good idea .
Random question: as someone else with the KA set - I'm curious - are you sanding the moulded doors down to put the ka PS doors on or are you overlaying or just ignoring (e.g. on the cranes or poop deck etc.) Hard to tell from the videos but it looks like you are doing a mixture.
Good question. Depends on the wall really, if it’s a flat wall I tend to leave the plastic on, but I do take the real high points off like the hinges. I like the look of the PE doors standing off from the wall a bit, makes them a bit more obvious.
But the curved walls like cranes etc I tend to sand off completely
I've been thinking about getting this kit with the to upgrade set for it but it just cost so much and seeing everything it comes with it's kinda scary
It is mighty pricey. And I do agree that it’s rather overwhelming. I found that too, and it’s still a bit scary when you get all this stuff. I still find it a bit overwhelming when you look at the box of things left to go!
What is the music at 1:53 called
Ummmmmmmm, the music that begins at 1:57 I know I’ve heard that somewhere before...
I Want to know what it's called
PS. Great work. These are a pricey build to say the least. Probably my most expensive build was a 1/16 Tamiya conversion to a Sherman Firefly.
Thanks, you are certainly right. Very pricey. But they do look great as they start coming together
0:00 23*
You started off saying this is "Part 22"........
Oops! Yeah you are correct. Oh well no harm done!