Great info. I did the same to my '87 Landcruiser. You just have to be careful of the wattage and voltage ratings. Some LED's can get very hot and some can be way to bright for dash lights and flicker when dimmed low. My LC is a 24V truck and the first set of LED's were 12V and they said they were rated up to 28V. Half of then smoked after a few minutes. I suspect that rating is for a quick inrush and not meant for sustained voltage. I ended up finding some 24V went with Green LED's. They worked great and give my LC a vintage feels with all he gauges being green. Keep up the great vids!
For cleaning plastics like the lens cover, in the helicopter bus we tend to use Pledge. It will film up, so you need to do some serious wiping with a dry rag to get it all off. Windex tends to dry out the plastic over time, whereas the Pledge is more of a wax which doesn't dry it and make it cloudier over time.
Looks awesome. Definetely worth the upgrade, the stock bulbs are so dim it is a joke. Funny enough, it was one of the first things I did on my 89, even before anything mechanical (which seems backwards I know, but i was younger). I first did it with chinese no name bulbs, but i learned my lesson in the sense that they rattled loose and started flickering due to the vibrations of the 12 valve. I then re-did all the work with name brand Philips 192 bright white LEDS, which cost substatially more, but 100 percent worth it. Never had an issue since. Ditched the blue filters.
Yep, I learned my lesson with the "cheap" style LED bulbs as well. I'm hoping this style of LED holds up well in the long run. The contacts and sockets sure make me feel they will last. Time will tell.
Yeah LEDs are awesome! I know I'm not too impressed with the aftermarket gauge selection. I'd expect there to be more digital gauge options by now I mean we are in 2021 so you should be able to select the colors of your gauges pretty easy. I'm looking at maybe getting some glow shifts for Ol' Blue and continue working on my gauge project too.
I bought some on Amazon and they got dropped off today. I put blue LEDs in my truck about 5 years ago and they are all starting to flicker so I'm going to get them replaced soon as well as repaint the pointers.
Just did the swap on my '93 D250 and now my wait to start light stays on. I assume it's because the LED's draw less power than the incandescent bulbs, but I'm not sure how to go about wiring in a resister to remedy this. Should i just put the stock bulb back in for the wait to start light only? Seems like you didnt have any problem with this. Thanks in advance!
Thanks. Yes, my red truck (LE truck), has an engine bay light. Ol' Blue doesn't have one as it's non-LE. (Non LE trucks also didn't have the halo key ring light lit up, a glove box light, no map light, and I think no cargo light too.
@@OvensGarage yeah mine has the retractable mopar light in the engine bay extends a good 3 meters I changed the bulb to an LED and lights up very bright.
Ensure that the new bulbs have a good clean connection in the bases of the bulb housings and ensure the copper printed circuit board isn't corroded anywhere.
@@rexgeiser2602 if the copper printed circuit board is corroded I would use a bit of scuff pads on the surface where the bulb housing latch onto the PCB to ensure the connection is clean. Maybe a bit of dielectric grease to ensure it doesn't corrode in the future as well
Great info. I did the same to my '87 Landcruiser. You just have to be careful of the wattage and voltage ratings. Some LED's can get very hot and some can be way to bright for dash lights and flicker when dimmed low. My LC is a 24V truck and the first set of LED's were 12V and they said they were rated up to 28V. Half of then smoked after a few minutes. I suspect that rating is for a quick inrush and not meant for sustained voltage. I ended up finding some 24V went with Green LED's. They worked great and give my LC a vintage feels with all he gauges being green. Keep up the great vids!
For cleaning plastics like the lens cover, in the helicopter bus we tend to use Pledge. It will film up, so you need to do some serious wiping with a dry rag to get it all off. Windex tends to dry out the plastic over time, whereas the Pledge is more of a wax which doesn't dry it and make it cloudier over time.
Looks awesome. Definetely worth the upgrade, the stock bulbs are so dim it is a joke. Funny enough, it was one of the first things I did on my 89, even before anything mechanical (which seems backwards I know, but i was younger). I first did it with chinese no name bulbs, but i learned my lesson in the sense that they rattled loose and started flickering due to the vibrations of the 12 valve. I then re-did all the work with name brand Philips 192 bright white LEDS, which cost substatially more, but 100 percent worth it. Never had an issue since. Ditched the blue filters.
Yep, I learned my lesson with the "cheap" style LED bulbs as well. I'm hoping this style of LED holds up well in the long run. The contacts and sockets sure make me feel they will last. Time will tell.
@@OvensGarage how are they holding up now almost a year later?
@@1018-u8s absolutely zero issues so far. No flickering and consistent performance. Love em!
@@OvensGarage Thank you for the reply! I'm a new owner of a 92 w250 and my main problems are electrical, so happy to have found your channel.
Beautiful... Dodge, my Love.
Turned out nice! I love my bright white LEDs but my new fuel pressure gauge is green and it can't be changed so i may change all mine to green 😢
Yeah LEDs are awesome! I know I'm not too impressed with the aftermarket gauge selection. I'd expect there to be more digital gauge options by now I mean we are in 2021 so you should be able to select the colors of your gauges pretty easy. I'm looking at maybe getting some glow shifts for Ol' Blue and continue working on my gauge project too.
I bought some on Amazon and they got dropped off today. I put blue LEDs in my truck about 5 years ago and they are all starting to flicker so I'm going to get them replaced soon as well as repaint the pointers.
Have you ever removed the the factory tach glass? Mine looks cloudy so I'm going to see if I can polish or replace it.
Awesome brother wow i bought leds just need to instal...jejeje
Yo you live right by me LOL u even drove past my buddies place.
Do you have a 1st gen too?
I liked that night driving at the end. Can you do a pov at night with the red truck?
Deal...but I need to fix my dash light situation in the red truck I'm embarrassed half of them aren't working..LOL
@@OvensGarage 😂 The problem of having an old truck
Say I'm just ordering up these lights and the one question I have is the dome light Amazon is saying this one will not work with the w250??
It should fit fine. Reg cabs might be different though I'm not sure
@@OvensGarage that's good to know I have a club cab..
Just did the swap on my '93 D250 and now my wait to start light stays on. I assume it's because the LED's draw less power than the incandescent bulbs, but I'm not sure how to go about wiring in a resister to remedy this. Should i just put the stock bulb back in for the wait to start light only? Seems like you didnt have any problem with this. Thanks in advance!
Yeah they can occasionally flicker but I haven't had any stay on. You could always wire in a resistor in line or try a different led.
Looks good. Really makes a difference. Did any of your trucks come with the engine bay light?
Thanks. Yes, my red truck (LE truck), has an engine bay light. Ol' Blue doesn't have one as it's non-LE. (Non LE trucks also didn't have the halo key ring light lit up, a glove box light, no map light, and I think no cargo light too.
@@OvensGarage yeah mine has the retractable mopar light in the engine bay extends a good 3 meters I changed the bulb to an LED and lights up very bright.
My 89 has the rectractable light, changed it to an super bright LED (was kinda hard to find because stupid base/size) and works awesome
My lights sometimes dont light up on start procedure what should i do
I would check the bulbs first. When you turn the key on all four lights should come on for a short period as a bulb check.
it's different for the dome light in a single cab correct?
Dome light bulb might be different yeah not sure never pulled one on a reg cab
I did all of this and only some of them work?
Ensure that the new bulbs have a good clean connection in the bases of the bulb housings and ensure the copper printed circuit board isn't corroded anywhere.
@@OvensGarage ok thank you 👍
@@OvensGarage if it is corroded what should I do?
@@rexgeiser2602 if the copper printed circuit board is corroded I would use a bit of scuff pads on the surface where the bulb housing latch onto the PCB to ensure the connection is clean. Maybe a bit of dielectric grease to ensure it doesn't corrode in the future as well
@@OvensGarage ok thank you 👍