Thanks for the simple and detailed video. Both the doors on a 86 D150 I bought this year sag badly. It will be good to be able to shut and lock the doors. Such a cheap fix.
Nice work makes it look as simple as the job is. . Went to do my pins ~ 5years ago and found lightly worn henges (broke bad enough to fix but not dead) and stopped because I found 27 cracks /broken spot welds. Needs a new door shell to fix the sag.
I just got all new hinges it's hard to find them but stick on eBay and you'll get a set. If you want the best door insulation or weatherstripping a 2008 ford f250 front door seal is like ours but has a extra lip. Zero wind noise after that upgrade.
Yes I've seen some of his content before, I'm interested in doing NWF crossover steering on the red truck and maybe a hydroboost upgrade down the road.
Only way that bottom hinge is coming out is if you take off the top hinge bolts. Otherwise, it is not possible to get enough clearance to get it out, no matter how much you jack up on the door and wiggle it around. I don't see how the hell you did it without taking the top hinge off. This requires 2 people, one to hold/adjust the door position since you will have no hinges attached, and one to put in the pins and re attach the hinges. And an air hammer to get the old pins out and to get the new pins in. If your door still needs to be slammed, try adjusting the striker. I had to slide mine out a bit. It's still not as good as my passenger side door, but it does close better than before. My passenger side door has the original pins, and shuts like a 2024 truck. Just give it a gentle tap and it closes and latches completely, no effort at all, even with the windows up. Driver door closes like that if the windows are down, but still has to be slammed if the windows are up. I guess the latch is bad.
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Thanks for the simple and detailed video. Both the doors on a 86 D150 I bought this year sag badly.
It will be good to be able to shut and lock the doors.
Such a cheap fix.
Dude you are literally reading my mind with these videos you're posting... every single one is on point. 👌
I'm glad it will be helpful to you! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the link man. These pins were marked down to $4 a pack. Insanely cheap.
Little bit of maintenance goes a long way with these trucks!
i would put some never seize on those pins before putting them in.
Good work! Makes a huge difference!
No more slamming the door, lol
Nice work makes it look as simple as the job is. .
Went to do my pins ~ 5years ago and found lightly worn henges (broke bad enough to fix but not dead) and stopped because I found 27 cracks /broken spot welds. Needs a new door shell to fix the sag.
Yeah those drivers side lower door hinges on the door shell can get pretty beat up! Luckily mine wasn't too crazy.
I just got all new hinges it's hard to find them but stick on eBay and you'll get a set. If you want the best door insulation or weatherstripping a 2008 ford f250 front door seal is like ours but has a extra lip. Zero wind noise after that upgrade.
Thanks for the tip
Looks like I’m gonna be doing this as well. Thanks for the videos
Glad it helped!
I’d like to see you put on the roll on side moulding from lmc truck in a future project
Maybe when I go to repaint the red truck one day...hopefully they'll have the good repro stuff and not the stuff from the c10's
@@OvensGarage the moulding on lmc isn’t for these trucks?
What did you use to get the rod thing out? I can't get mine out even with wd40
I would recommend wiscohuddy’s channel for you oven. He recently upgraded his brakes, kinda interesting!
Yes I've seen some of his content before, I'm interested in doing NWF crossover steering on the red truck and maybe a hydroboost upgrade down the road.
Made sure to cut out all the cussing and prying involved in “simply” removing that hinge piece
Yeah the lower hinges were definitely a bit of a pain
If you own a 1984 d250 do not order 38386 per video they are to big will not work
Only way that bottom hinge is coming out is if you take off the top hinge bolts. Otherwise, it is not possible to get enough clearance to get it out, no matter how much you jack up on the door and wiggle it around. I don't see how the hell you did it without taking the top hinge off. This requires 2 people, one to hold/adjust the door position since you will have no hinges attached, and one to put in the pins and re attach the hinges. And an air hammer to get the old pins out and to get the new pins in. If your door still needs to be slammed, try adjusting the striker. I had to slide mine out a bit. It's still not as good as my passenger side door, but it does close better than before. My passenger side door has the original pins, and shuts like a 2024 truck. Just give it a gentle tap and it closes and latches completely, no effort at all, even with the windows up. Driver door closes like that if the windows are down, but still has to be slammed if the windows are up. I guess the latch is bad.