One Piece Tub Shower Install on Concrete Slab
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 เม.ย. 2020
- A huge advantage of new construction is being able to use one-piece showers and tub sets. For obvious reasons they need to be installed prior to finishing the framing.
Walking you through the steps on hooking up the plumbing, what drain Paul uses, and making sure it's level.
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TY for sharing. I would put a clean-out at the access door side. Comes handy when you do not want to mess up with the plumbing on the shower side.
I’m a kitchen and bath remodeling contractor in Southern New Jersey I always put structalite which is the base coat for plaster walls it’s great for sound deadening tub bottoms and a great leveling base you don’t get that hollow sound when your shower hits the especially on upper level bathrooms you don’t hear it in say your den area watching tv
Thanks for the tip. Much appreciated.
Good job.
I just watched about 8 videos on shower installs and plumbing for showers and yours is the first one that is decent and educational.
The rest of the ones I seen we're giving more bad advice than good.
But at least they reminded me of things not to do.
Amazing tips once again. Rubber connection, access door, etc. I would use some sort of spray foam or something of the like under/around to base of the tub. It will make it way more solid over the years.
Can't wait to see until it's finished.. 👍🏿👍🏿
Those 14 'thumbs down' are from people who have NO idea of what it takes to build ANY thing with their own two hands...... Keep up the good work !
Only one man working is huge! It`s a project that I am following since the out walls were installed. And I am loving it! Huge work Marshall! 👍
He needs more man power
@@joshdaniel8729 It's true Josh! Did you saw how Marshall done the metal joints? He done it like he want it, more perfect. It's going to be his and his family home.
Glad to see you didn’t use sheet rock screws to install the tub/shower!!! It seems like all the new homes I’m in have sheet rock screws and several cracks caused from it. 🤦🏻♂️
What you have done is brilliant mate
I feel like I could build a house after watching this series.
Thank you for your videos! Great information. You are do helpful
Great ideas to have a coupling and access panel
i wish we would of had courses that used things like this for example. Like in math and science and history. I would of loved a teacher like you. Your teaching me things i take into account every day and when i can earn money. I will be able to start fixing up my parents house. To make it more comfortable, less drafty and be able to replace the one piece tub in my bathroom and take the time to make sure its perfect and get any proper new parts i need.
A good description with video of how you accomplished a detailed installation. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Good job, excellent video. Informative and entertaining, good recipe for a successful channel!
I suggest that you install an access trap door tall enough to cover the shower/tub controls (just in case the have to replace it) and going down, to gain access the the swival "p" trap drain below the floor.
Super helpful thank you
Looking good 👍😁👍
Thanks Marshall.
We used to run mortar to support the center in order to prevent cracking. Love this build!
We still do run mud beds under all our Acrylic Tubs and shower pans. OR we use spray foam. We have drains cracking around the drain flanges on the tubs especially. The weight of people standing in the drain areas was causing stress on those areas. Yet the tubs and showers had plywood fibreglassed in legs and platforms.
I was going to say we use structolite under our tubs/shower bases for added support.
Yes, he could still pack mortar under it or better yet spray foam could get sprayed once he can fill the tub full of water closed cell foam would add structure. I have also see drywall mud used as well
@@mkzenthusiasts Spray foam is soft. In my opinion not so good to add to the structure. Mortar or lightweight (foamed) concrete will do better. Consider acustic butyle mats on the tub walls, too. It will improve comfort.
@@rkalle66 are those applied before or after settling the unit?
Does your code allow to put a clean port in the drain line? Would be nice access by the access panel?
Dude much respect! Good luck on the build, hope everything turn out perfect for you and your family!👍🏾
I'm inspired.
I am installing one on regular floor do you need the two by fours underneath the legs I was not aware of that? Thanks I appreciate the video
I'd like to see interviews of the "thumbs down"s. Since you're the good guy, i'd be glad to do them.
Haha thanks!
Around the tub flange you mentioned you would run the sheetrock up to the flange and then fill in the rest. What do you plan to fill it in with? Thanks
Mark with single- and double-, triple-mark... lines so you know what go where without a doubt!
I would do the same thing but he isn't taking the whole assembly apart and throwing it in a box and then trying to reconstruct it. I have faith in Paul, he is a building machine!
Loved watching your video, you're doing a great job of explaining as you go. It's helpful for learning. I'll certainly be back for more. I need you to do a video when you hook the PEX up. I'm about to switch our house to PEX and I'm not exactly sure how to get it all connected. I'm also thinking about installing a PEX manifold and tankless water heater.
I will have a pex manifold so it will probably be in line with what your doing. I use maniblock manifolds. I get them from supply house.com
Tip for temporarly dry fitting pvc. I use Biotene (synthetic saliva.) Simple and easy.
Great tip!
Thanks for the share..
Thank you for watching!
Dude kind of sounds like Kermit the Frog but it was a great video, very helpful, and will watch the others by him.
Very helpful. We have slab flooring and have to replace the tub. Can't find a plumber to do it. The builder encased the pipes in concrete so there's no hole, we can't replace any pipes. Should we jack the concrete out?
Dude, you are a machine. I'm not sure how much time has passed between video releases and the actual work but it is crazy how fast you are doing this by yourself.
@@masterspacetime2826 And what does that have to do with the mans incredible work ethic?
Zdude1987 let them know
I hope you remember to install some support for the center of the tub. I use spray foam before. If you don't support that section you run the risk of it cracking and creating a leak. That is fibre. Set the tub then come back with some spray foam from the side. Just use the non-expanding filler.
Thanks for the tip!
may i suggest
the shower tub must be set in structo-lite plaster or mortar. Ive done plumbing for a good portion of my life and setting fiberglass tubs is and was an everyday thing. if something heavy falls in tub person, kids jumping up and down or what have you it will break the tub. the base must be set in mortar or structo-lite
Just watching your videos now. Did you brace the bathtub with anything else? I have heard of people putting more of a structure underneath than just the feet that are built into the tub. Do you think that would ever be necessary?
be sure to put something under the tub for support... mortar bed, expandable foam bag... and wrap the tub in fiberglass to hold the heat in your hot water during a bath
Nice work
Thanksa!
good video i learned some things
Thanks!
nice job sir. I have seen these fail over a long time (25 years) due to no support under the tub, like mortar or foam or similar. after several fatigue cycles of a 200lb person plus water, possibly like 400 lbs of weight on the bottom. plus if you do it will take any of the "squishy" feeling you may have when you step in it. It may feel stiff now but over time may weaken.
Also good idea to spray foam under the shower for support.
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I built an earth contact home so I am no stranger to concrete floors and plumbing and if I did it again I would do some things different. I am alone now son not all the tubs and bathrooms period get used. I had company once and my shower, much like the one you installed. The drain lost its seal where it is screwed to the bottom of the tub. I turned the water off and messed with it later. NOONE could sell me a drain that I could install from the top at the time so it remained unused for some time. Then one day I saw on here a new top install drain. It slides over the rough plumbing and rolls on a greased grommet. The ring is self tightening by 5 fingers you set and when you start turning the screws the grab the bottom/floor of the unit. I don't think anyone used any support under the units. When I built my other houses I dumped a wheelbarrow of concrete in and set the unit in that and never had problems. Anyway they have all that stuff accessible from the top now.
Nice job again or is it still😁😁😁 what are you going to use to bed the base in ? If you spray foam it, do the walls of the cubicle too, I’m probably jumping the gun by asking but anyway, Good luck and stay safe...
right on. I think the angled rubber overflow seal might be upside down though...? If you put the thicker on the bottom wouldn't that make the overflow drain pipe 90 degrees to the ground rather than at more of an angle following the vertical slope of the tub?
That’s how one would think it should be but that piece has an angle to it that requires the thicker part of the seal to be at the top which then makes your pipe straight up and down.
How do you trap the wastes? Or are you relying on the under base main soil pipes to trap?
Exactly what I needed to see for my bathroom basement build. Thanks!!
good
Can you show us how the shower works when it’s all done? (Fanning myself)
Why do you have the saw joints cut in the concrete floor like you do? Also when installing the bottom plates for walls any concern about hitting pex lines for radiant heat?
don't know why but i like that you say "welcome to the show". I also don't know why i watch someone build a house, but a keep coming
Sweet video as always!
I want to see the haters put out a video building a shelf much less an entire house.
Geez some people.
I appreciate it.
6:45 the big crawling around on his back😂
Lol. You are the second person to see that. Guess he didn’t bite me I’m still kicking. 😂
Hello from your new and probably soon to be original subscribers!
Your video saved me so much frustration and probably a broken shower. I bought the exact same model and nowhere in the instructions does it say to use 2x4s under the feet. I was about to screw it in place and then shove shims under it which probably would’ve softened and then shattered the flange later on.
Glad we could help! Thanks for watching!
It is a bit late now, but before installing the shower tube, spray foam the bottom and back of the tub a day in advance installing. Great sound insulation and your tube water keep the heat longer.
YES!!! I spray foamed under the tub in the basement bathroom I finished and it's great. Very solid and slows the water from cooling off. I actually foamed it in place.
@@nakantor I've done it in place as well. I did it more to make it feel more stable, and eliminate creaking noises while in use. Bugs me when I'm in a well built house and the shower feels like I'm in an RV. Extra insulation was a side benefit.
bro nice and idea of marking the PVC pipe and to show how to flow the water in pipe.that one of good to do of carpenter not to making mistake. i like that your guide to show your work.GOD BLESS YOU and your FAMILY
Thanks!
Did you fill the hole for the p-trap in with sand and cover with air barrier or just leave it open?
Thanks for showing us.
Footing question
Why did u have to put the 2x4 under them? Does the kind require it to be tilted for proper water flow to drain??
Oh yeah really is I appreciate u distinguishing a few thing on connecting the pipes. Newbie here
It’s hard to see in the video but if I were to set those feet directly on the floor it would not be level. The feet are intended to be set in mortar but I like setting them on 2x4s if possible. I have had good luck doing it this way and have not had any problems with the tub being solid.
@ marshall remodel Where can anyone look for or roder one of those one piece units, we need to re do ours and want one of those units. Thank you!
You’re brave to drill into the concrete like that I would be worry about the radiant floor heating or did you pre plan that wall
That helps me out as I need to relocate my shower and cut the concrete to move the plumbing. I'm actually going to do a tiled shower so my install will be a bit different.
I'm not doing high rises
@@joshdaniel8729 Your response has nothing to do with what I was saying at all.
So they no longer want you to grout under the tub for support?
I've always hated the flex in the bottom of a fiberglas tub so I put in a bed of mortar down, wet, before I set the tub in place. Gives it a rock solid base.
Ive seen where lots of people will set the tub in mortar for support over the life of the tub. Do you have plans to insulate behind the tub? I like the spray foam idea for added tub insulation to keep the water warmer longer.
On your wall sill plates, besides tap-cons for anchors, I have seen adhesive used between the floor and plate. Any thoughts on adding a beed of calk under the plate? Even to keep water contained within a room?
I wish I had done that when I replaced my tub in '07. Every time I step into it, it creaks and moans, and I keep thinking it's going to crack at some point.
How about using spray foam, sprayed in after the tub is installed, to support the center portion?
I have a tub/shower I installed 25 years ago, and the center sags now when I take a shower. I might try to put some spray foam underneath it (I have access from below).
If you don't mind thought I'd run Sal Di Blasi's channel by you. He's a tile setter from Boston. He's cool. All the best.
I’ll check it out.
Nice I gotta story about putting a tub surround in and the police were called crazy
Bobs World Entertainment Podcast Ltd s
What if one side of the bathroom is concrete blocks? Do I have to put pressure treated wood?
All well and good if you have a house that is not finished. How about how to install in an already finished home, as many of us need?
the house looks so big,, he he the bath before any live there ,i though you need a toilet first, if you gotta go you gotta go he he,, 👍👍👍👍
And you sound so Sad.....did you want this work? Smile, and enjoy. This is a big work.
Are you worried you are going to hit the radiant floor tubes with your hammer drill/tapcons or are they set deep enough in the concrete floor that it doesn't matter?
He's said in several of his videos that the radiant floor heating tubes are 5 inches deep in the concrete. The anchors only go 2 inches deep, so there's no problem.
Have you contacted Menards Corporate in Eau Claire WI about your build and that all or most of your build has been bought their? I used to work there before social media but I would think someone up there would throw you a BIG BONE! Maybe start with your local store manager if you haven't done so already. I'm sure you're have contacts through their contractors dept?.
6 inch studs and plate really make the rough in work OH so much easier. Allows for a dead straight wall for the wet wall
Is the the MAAX Tub/Shower from Menards?
Yes
Yep.. it’s same as i’am installing now
first, congratulations for your build! nice to share with us. Quick question: you went way above standard with urethane insulation, metal roof, gigantic square footage, LVL's everywhere and you install a precast fiberglass bathtub......WHY? it's like owning a porsche or Ferrari and putting walmart tires on (I know it's not your master but it definetly ''choked me''
I'm thinkin this is just one of the guest bathrooms and he'll get a little more fancy with the master, hopefully. He does a quick walk around in the previous video, Interior Framing Part 4 around the 17' mark and shows the layout.
Can you get those with a six foot tub?
1) The drain-tubing, should it not be linked "female" to "male"? so that there is no "lip" inside of the drain-tube that might stop the free-flow of water and perhaps compromise the seal over the years. I think you put a straight tube (male to male) linking the drain from the bottom of the tub to the vertical tube; might not be "best practice" and cause issues along the way.
2) I would try to put some planks/boards under the tub so that it won't be supported only on those small feet at the edges; just prevent/limit the formation of a "curve" in the tub over the years. It make sense to try to distribute the weight of the person standing inside the tub across the whole bottom.
Can this unit be installed over an existing old tub shower combo or can it simply replace one?
You would need to remove the old one first.
@@MrPostFrame okay the bath fitter place cover over the existing unit. wish my husband could replace ours.
What is the brand on the tub shower unit?
Need to use mortar under the bottom to keep it from cracking . You will be replacing it eventually! But everything else is good.
Just installed this. How did you get the label off Mine is on and totally stuck on
Lemon essential oil, steaming it off with a clothes steamer and plastic scraper are two of our go to methods
@@MrPostFrame I have a steam cleaner. I'll give it a try thanks
Surprised that the tub did not require mortar under to support the tub. If not mortar some tubs require expansion foam of the type for use between doors and window frames to give it more support.
No treated wood on the slab?
When you were showing the overhead view of the master suite, I thought you pointed to a large walk in shower stall. Am I wrong? Stay safe
Yes I did. It will be a tile shower.
Think you should number where you mark the lines
no solar? no rain water? was hoping u would be off grid
How u conet the shower
Here's the faucet connection video th-cam.com/video/eZ7YdNME8Kc/w-d-xo.html
Can't believe I never saw the marker trick before. TIL
What type of tiling are you thinking? 😀 Would love to see the wife soon with some design ideas!
What ever the wife decides. Lol. She will don’t you worry.
I see tons of people want concrete under the tub..this one piece is designed differently than just a tub only.. is concrete or foam recommended??? On this Maax unit ????
This is what we did th-cam.com/video/7RKOImlZMNw/w-d-xo.html
I'm not trying to throw shade on your work, but thought people should know: By code the vent has to be plumb (vertical) at least until it's 6 inches or above the tub's rim. So, this would not satisfy either of the major US codes.
Won't all that hidden open volume attract things like roaches?
Should have removed form boards from slab... hope they are treated.. Will be termite food in a year or two
I suggest you slide non shrinking grout underneath the shower so that there is no movement when you're in the shower it works very nicely I do not recommend putting spray foam underneath it.
Hey
Wealth, fame, power. Gold Roger the King of the Pirates had- wait...
Why not just go straight into the drain what is the purpose of the trap?
I cut those things out all the time. I didn’t think people were still using those.
Hay I am sues husband may I suggest when you put tub in (fiberglass unit )put in place mark every thing then move it out of the way get one or to bags of sack create mix it so it is stiff lay a piece of plastic down were the tub will be placed in put concrete on top of plastic push down so tub is smashed in concrete this will eliminate squeaking noise when showering and will ad strength to tub bottom my daughter had this problem in her house Plummer’s had to come back and do this repair solved problem
U didn’t finish the last part installing the p trap to waste line
0/5 looks nothing like the anime.
DanDunDun lmaoooo I was here for this exact reason
Exactly
Same
See with my next home, I would like a free standing claw foot tub. This one piece shower, tub combo is so basic!